I really like the fold away removal of your flask! I've seen that is some big shop video's before as well, but had forgotten about it until watching you again on these.
Thank you. It's a snap flask. It's getting a little rough but I use it a lot for me. Every spill shows. They are easy to make, and I've only had a few runouts with bare sand.
Thanks for showing this hinged, latched flask. I'm just building my furnace now, but I want to do some experiments with mold rotation of 90 degrees, for bottom feeding of a part. For my case, I just want to remove one side. I can adapt where I put the hinge to do what I want.
It's called a snap flask. They are primarily used to conserve the number of flasks you need but to be proper they should be tapered so a shield can be installed to hold the completed mold. I do find I can pour aluminum into an unshielded mold but occasionally have a failure. Brass, bronze, and cast iron are heavy enough I need to weight or clamp the molds so the sand needs a flask to support it. I think you'll find rotating a split mold for pouring will result in runout but if you're clever you'll figure out how to do it. Generally you can use a cheek (flask between the cope and drag) to allow you to mold a feeder which will fully bottom feed your casting. Happy casting!!
Great work! You have a quality product and a real production line. I have seen folk cast match plates, and I have seen built up ones, such as yours. I have been hesitant to try to build up a match plate because I'm not sure I could get the alignment accurate enough. But the cast style of match plate just looks like it would take sooooo much metal. I really like what you have done here.
Thank you! The other thing about a cast match plate, if you need to make a modification it is harder. They key is to start with a good board, I like solid core Baltic birch plywood, the cheap ones. It will stay flat. Paint all sides to keep moisture out. Lay out your patterns on one side and drill small holes with the edge of the hole on the edge of the pattern. Use a drill press so the hole is square to the board. You can line up the other side within 0.010" easily. I get more mold shift from not having tight flask alignment pins. A little mold shift is pretty much to be expected. You can fill the holes with wood putty and never look back. The main advantage for me is getting the runners and gates right every time. Technically this is not a match plate. A match plate has pattern in the drag as well, this should have been called a mounted pattern but I think it is a fine division. I'll try to post up a video of a match plate I use to make trivets and really need the match plate for that.
@@benediction5174 Well, the sprue is the entrance to the mold the hot metal flows through. It can be dug out with a spoon or metal tube or molded in the sand like I usually do. A sprue is best tapered from top to bottom so the flowing metal will not cavitate. Clean smooth flow makes for the best final castings. Turbulent flow picks up contaminates (like oxygen, nitrogen, and sand).
![Foundry Sand Casting Created a Mould Cavity Using a Split Pattern [ NAVEEN M INSTRUCTOR] SJBIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oOOg4eGLuwg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Foundry Sand Casting Created a Mould Cavity Using a Split Pattern [ NAVEEN M INSTRUCTOR] SJBIT](/img/tr.png)
I learn so much from your videos, thanks for putting them up!
Thank you for the kind comment!
I really like the fold away removal of your flask! I've seen that is some big shop video's before as well, but had forgotten about it until watching you again on these.
Thank you. It's a snap flask. It's getting a little rough but I use it a lot for me. Every spill shows. They are easy to make, and I've only had a few runouts with bare sand.
Thanks for the video! Really helpful for the class I'm taking.
Thanks for the comment!
wow i've never seen such a plate, or a hinged flask, bloomin brilliant.
They are common foundry items, certainly not my design, but they do work well.
Excellent work Andrew!
Thank you!
Awesome work Andy, always learn something useful from your videos thank you for sharing.
Thanks, Ray. I try to put out valid information.
Thanks for showing this hinged, latched flask. I'm just building my furnace now, but I want to do some experiments with mold rotation of 90 degrees, for bottom feeding of a part. For my case, I just want to remove one side. I can adapt where I put the hinge to do what I want.
It's called a snap flask. They are primarily used to conserve the number of flasks you need but to be proper they should be tapered so a shield can be installed to hold the completed mold. I do find I can pour aluminum into an unshielded mold but occasionally have a failure. Brass, bronze, and cast iron are heavy enough I need to weight or clamp the molds so the sand needs a flask to support it.
I think you'll find rotating a split mold for pouring will result in runout but if you're clever you'll figure out how to do it. Generally you can use a cheek (flask between the cope and drag) to allow you to mold a feeder which will fully bottom feed your casting.
Happy casting!!
Great work! You have a quality product and a real production line. I have seen folk cast match plates, and I have seen built up ones, such as yours. I have been hesitant to try to build up a match plate because I'm not sure I could get the alignment accurate enough. But the cast style of match plate just looks like it would take sooooo much metal. I really like what you have done here.
Thank you! The other thing about a cast match plate, if you need to make a modification it is harder. They key is to start with a good board, I like solid core Baltic birch plywood, the cheap ones. It will stay flat. Paint all sides to keep moisture out. Lay out your patterns on one side and drill small holes with the edge of the hole on the edge of the pattern. Use a drill press so the hole is square to the board. You can line up the other side within 0.010" easily. I get more mold shift from not having tight flask alignment pins. A little mold shift is pretty much to be expected. You can fill the holes with wood putty and never look back.
The main advantage for me is getting the runners and gates right every time.
Technically this is not a match plate. A match plate has pattern in the drag as well, this should have been called a mounted pattern but I think it is a fine division. I'll try to post up a video of a match plate I use to make trivets and really need the match plate for that.
Turning out very nicely!
Thanks, man!
"Kind of like a cookie cutter" I love it
Exactly what it is. But sometimes it's best to make a match plate for only a few castings if alignment is an issue.
Thanks for commenting.
Are you using greensand or petrabond, it shifts so nicely and holds the details.
Nevermind, it looks like greensand, it must be fine grain sand.
@@mr.smileyken6364 It is green sand. I don't want the oily mess of petrobond though I have been tempted to try it.
Tq sir🙏🏻
Thank you!
Did using the match plate get rid of the deflection you found in the first casting?
Yep. The pattern was slightly warped and had to be clamped down when gluing it.
Andrew Martin - So do you believe that the reason for the deflection in your earlier video was due to the warpage of the pattern and not shrinkage?
@@stevek5416 No, I think it was shrinkage. But the pattern was 3D printed and for me they typically warp.
What is sprue pin? Pls reply
Well, I'm not sure. Where did you get that term?
I mention the sprue pattern, and it has a dowel to fit into the match plate.
@@andrewmartin4258 Thank you, sir. I don't have enough knowledge about sprue, So I asked like that 😆
@@benediction5174 Well, the sprue is the entrance to the mold the hot metal flows through. It can be dug out with a spoon or metal tube or molded in the sand like I usually do.
A sprue is best tapered from top to bottom so the flowing metal will not cavitate. Clean smooth flow makes for the best final castings. Turbulent flow picks up contaminates (like oxygen, nitrogen, and sand).