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Thanks! Nice idea. not sure whether the plastic would bubble and obscure the view before the glass broke but it is certainly worth a try. Plain glass broke quickly for me, just as soon as the molten metal touched it. Most of my glass was from old halogen work lights.

Thanks very much for the comment!

I have a propane port in the side of my burner As you know the furnace has to be hot to burn waste oil.

I think that's an E35. It is a local contractor's machine.

😂😂😂

Thanks for the enlightenment. Would my work be better if I learned the metric system? But I'm not Jesus Christ. I'm quite mortal though it may not seem that way to you.

@@andrewmartin4258 it would become usefull for the rest of the world, conversions would be much easier and you would not need fractions.

@@pedgarage I am very comfortable with fractions. In some cases fractions make the calculations much easier. I am a degreed engineer and am very familiar with the metric system. I prefer to use the English system. Your initial comment was quite derogatory however, and unwarranted. I regret that you learned nothing from the video because you were hung up on the units. The units are insignificant when it comes to understanding the basics of the physics.

Thanks for the kind words! The lid (or arch in furnace terminology) consists of a sheet metal ring with a 1/2" lip turned inward. I used 2,600 degree brick. Melting cast iron is tough on it but I have yet to replace any brick after 485 melts. Here's a link to a description of the build: forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/simple-brick-furnace.288/

@@andrewmartin4258 485 melts wow that is great 👍👍👍 excelent furnace. Thank you for sharing your experience 🙏 I try now to build a new oil iron melting furnace with mullit fiber boards in the arch and brics with mulit fiber blankets for the furnace walls. I dont now how that will stand to 1600°C. Wish you always sucsess with yor furnace and casting work💪💪💪

Thanks for the reminder, Russ!

It is explained in the videos. The spreadsheet I use is incredibly simple however you have to understand the basics because each mold is so different. It is really not difficult.

Thank you!

Uneven temperature distribution. The sand is quite porous preventing pressure buildup. Notice the air in the cavity was expelled with very little force.

I regret the translation of your comment is not easy for me to understand. The pouring basin is the design shared by Olfoundryman. Martin (his first name, no relation to me) really knows his stuff and has helped me tremendously. You can rely on anything and everything he says.

@@andrewmartin4258 Excuse me, teacher, but I wanted to know what that emptying system is called, the rebozo pool.

@@heilerdelarosa It is a pouring basin with a foam plug.

Thanks for the kind comment! It was all selfishness. I had to video the fluid metal in order to review it multiple times as well as slow it down. Putting it on TH-cam is an easy way to save it and find it later. And sometimes it helps other people. ☺

Me too! Every time. This was filmed inside a box of old windows to contain the debris. My first one was out in the open and I was surprised my camera wasn't damaged by hot metal. It is nerve wracking even knowing it is coming.

😂😂

And hot... Thanks for commenting.

Styrofoam. In my case it is the pink foam board I use for lost foam casting as well. Not only does it allow a short pause before metal begins flowing down the sprue to insure there is a stable liquid level in the pouring cup, it flushes air from the mold with the vaporized foam. It think the foam also reacts with oxygen when it is hot thereby also reducing the potential for aluminum contact with oxygen. Thanks for commenting.

@@andrewmartin4258 Many thanks. I do a little foundry work for fun... And it takes a long time to learn. But this is the 1st time I've understood that casting has to be slow, regular. No air pockets. And the little "plug/styrofoam" allows preliminary filling of the casting cavity, absorbing oxygen as it burns. It's fabulous, magical! And nature adds a skin around the liquid, a skin that you have to learn not to tear. No book explains this! It's one of my best foundry lessons! (note: I practice steam modelling, so I rather cast brass, bronze (from salvage)MERCI CHER MONSIEUR!

@@cccbbb3161 Slow and uniform (regular) but as fast as is practical to maintain control. 😂 Steam modeling is very cool! I doubt there's as much value with using foam in brass or bronze casting but there might be some. Merci, mon ami

Thanks for your kind words!

Thanks for your kind comments! I've been trying to learn and improve my castings. Using the glass flask with video has helped me see where what I'm doing can be improved. This was basically to compare a curved sprue with what people normally do. The curved sprue avoids mixing with air and the foam plug pushes a non-oxygen contained slug of vapor in front of the metal front. Liquid aluminum is very susceptible to oxygen.

Thanks!

Thank you! For me, this is a long, thin core. Getting the sand out of a blind core could be a challenge. And no, I've not tried. You're supposed to mix your core so the heat of casting then the shrinkage after casting pulverizes the core. I have never been able to get that to happen.

Classes start soon...

I'm not tired of it yet. I'll be sad, but when do you want to come get it?

Don't even think about touching it...

I'll post some pictures.

Thank you. Hershey, the brown dog, died last year. A great friend.

🤣🤣

There might be some debate on that.🤣 It's an old video.

Thanks for the kind words! It's an old street rod, still in great shape. Those were custom wheels designed and built for this car. I've had the car over ten years and like it as much as the day I bought it. It is fast and smooth. We've had it on several trips of over 1,000 miles including to Colorado and over Independence Pass. Others think they don't match current style. Styles change.

Thank you! I'll put your name on the list. You'd have to promise to drive it. th-cam.com/users/shortsTaz3CZJP2eg?feature=share

The issue here was carrying it down a slope and around the house to get it in place. Thanks for commenting!

@andrewmartin4258 wow mine was flat ground in a big back yard

The entire house is within an insulated envelope. It is a high R value and limits air infiltration. More expensive than fiberglass batts but there is a payback. The attic spaces stay moderate temperature. Disadvantages are cost, you really can't do it yourself, and if you develop a roof leak lumber may rot before the leak comes through.

I doner two 😊

The house is on a steep slope. Fortunately the sewer line gets laid on top of the surface then covered with fill brought in to make a yard. Thanks for commenting!

They do have to add drill stem. And pay attention to the tailings...

Or buried power lines or oilfield pipeline? There is oil in the area, lots of production at 300 ft. We are away from it and had a good chance of not getting oil or worse, salt water. There are lots of brine wells around here.

I believe it was a 30 ton truck crane. The guy was very inexpensive and knew his stuff. I was going to walk the trusses through the trees but he convinced me he had enough stick to lift over. We put a tag line on this side of the trees.

Ummm, they can't reload. You have one shot to get it where you want it.

Maybe it's a regional thing. Been done this was for years, I've never had damage.

Sometimes it's good to see how other guys do it. This was good to get the trusses off the road. Very tight and congested site.

Until a few years ago I'd never seen anything but side dumps. Not everyone does things the same way but different methods can be successful. No damage.

It's a little uncomfortable the first time you see it. The do have roll off trucks around here now but I wanted the side dump to get the load out of the road.

Nice!

That would be nice! This was for a house I built for a friend. It is detailed on Garage Journal.

It does, and the operator had run it before.

Glad you're casting! I would recommend thehomefoundry.org Lots of good information and nice guys just trying not to get burned. Cast iron is not hard, just a little different, you cover it with charcoal or something to keep oxygen away from the hot metal. I've found I like replacing broken iron castings with brass or bronze often times. Cost of the metal is minimal and the parts look expensive.

Thanks for your comment. I learned from them so I continued...

Thanks for the kind words. I was doing this for myself and did learn a lot. Publishing them was a way to preserve the effort. There are more things I want to do but I am too time constrained right now.

Apparently the seller I bought from is not selling this kit now. I bought CAPN3301A and I see several advertised on ebay. This is for a 5/8" rod. I believe CAPN3301B is for a 1/2" rod.