DON'T drill it out like this as he discovered afterwards, as later mentioned push the valve up from the inside. I've literally just pushed it up with my fingers so I'll have to dismantle it now 😩
Great video! Hopefully you can continue this project and videos soon, very informative. I've got a 97 535 that I have brought back to life after 2 years. Your carb videos helped greatly. Still running a bit choppy though so I would love to see how you get yours back together and running with any tips and tricks!
I soon should be back on the project after my holiday. Not sure how much videos I will do, though. My advices are, be very torough, don't cut corners, clean all mating surfaces, use good quality o-rings. Lastly the most important is to double check, what you just triple checked :D
Thanks for the video fella. Reckon I'll just leave the seat in mine and see how she runs with a new needle. Definitely looks like more of a chore than it needs to be
Hello. I really appreciate your videos. I was cleaning my carb and noticed that main jets and needles are different sizes in front and back carb. To be sure witch goes where, I checked on the internet, but there is conflicting information. Could you clarify that?
Hello. There should only be one setting for your bike, the conflicting information you find is coming from different models and years in different countries. USA models will have different jetting because they have different emission rules, even inside the USA the California models have different settings, so as Canada and so on. Make sure you locate your bike properly and you should be able to find the relevant information in the manuals...
Pilot screws are fairly easily removed by using s left-handed drill and drillling away the broad part, then getting the spring, washer and o-ring out. I did it a couple of weeks back with the carbs on the bike.
Hi, yeah I understand what you mean. I don't have a pillar drill to not mess up th thread in the body, and to be honest I wanted to try the Lifan carbs out so this was a good excuse to spend the money on them🤦♂️😆 Thanks for watching😉👍
Awesome video great job! Yeah by the parts picture it comes with the seat and the valve it looks only like it will come out the one way and destroy the screen but if you're getting new one doesn't matter... Thanks!!
Yes exactly...it wasn't that hard to be honest and obviously the drilling is not necessary, unless you only make a small hole, use self tapping screw, pull it out and if you went through then just solder the hole back and should be fine..👍
@@MidlandCruiser yeah in my kit it came with the valve seat with screen on it and needle valve. Btw it looks yeah you could just hit out get a new o-ring for the plug and tap in.. at first I didn't know what it was till I looked online and seen they came as a kit and I was like oh... 😂 Lol I shop at Partzilla and if you go there you'll see what I'm talking about when you by the valve the seat comes with it.. I didn't change mine.. but I may, I'm going to take apart crankcase bc of a leak if I can't get this Permatex sealing spray to stop the leak.. it supposedly wicks into the gasket or sealant. I don't think it's going to work but hey I'm gonna try. If not oh well it's time for it anyway...
@@MidlandCruiser Do you still have this carb? I need the drain fitting from it... Mine broke off and it's had to jb weld it and I didn't do good job and I have to hold the hose on most the time to check the fuel level.. would you be willing to sell the fitting?
Hey buddy!! Which way do you think it goes back in? I was thinking 🤔 to take off the new filter and punch it in till it bottoms and put filter on and new o-ring on the plug and put that in and punch it on the sides to secure it better.. idk whatcha think?
@@MidlandCruiser I noticed that too with the filter on one of my rebuild kits I took it off and it was not as tight as before and came off easier that's not good.
@@MidlandCruiser what do you think? It can't go in the same way and gotta take filter off? And what suggestions do you have to be careful and not mess up filter? Thanks mate!!
@@karlh4313 yes it should go back in from the plug side and sits on the cast aluminium. You could use some petrol resistant threadlock to keep it secure or glue, just need to be resistant to petrol...put some on the surface where it sits and will be fine. My advice for the filter is to take it off gently, and again if needed use petrol resistant glue and put a tiny bit on the bottom of the filter and click it back on..should be fine
Might be able to solder or weld something onto the cap so you can grab it instead of drilling and tapping. Doesn't seem like it put up that much of a fight. Awesome info anyway
Yes good idea...solder or Tig brazing might work. I wasn't sure what to expect so I just went in full throttle 😁 The plug came put fairly easy, the valve seat needed a bit hammering, because that was a bit tighter...
Hi Lorant!. this is a Roman from russia. thanks for another video. tell me which owner's manual you use in your work. I want to buy. what do you advise
Hello. If you join the Virago Nation Facebook group, there, in the files section you can download both manual in pdf, for free, with other useful pdf in there too. I use both Haynes and Clymer manuals, sometimes 1 is missing an info or sometimes, some things are explained better in one than the other.
I am trying my best to start up again...but currently busy with other stuff, and at work. I haven't done anything to the bike so will carry on from the last video..sorry about it.
DON'T drill it out like this as he discovered afterwards, as later mentioned push the valve up from the inside. I've literally just pushed it up with my fingers so I'll have to dismantle it now 😩
Very sorry to hear that, and yes I did mention it at the end, that it might come out without drilling etc...4:48
Thanks for the video. Its th first one ive found on you tube in two years of searching.
Great video! Hopefully you can continue this project and videos soon, very informative. I've got a 97 535 that I have brought back to life after 2 years. Your carb videos helped greatly. Still running a bit choppy though so I would love to see how you get yours back together and running with any tips and tricks!
I soon should be back on the project after my holiday. Not sure how much videos I will do, though. My advices are, be very torough, don't cut corners, clean all mating surfaces, use good quality o-rings. Lastly the most important is to double check, what you just triple checked :D
Exactly what I was looking for! Great work and thank you!
Please start watching the video from 4:48 to avoid any damage to the plug.
Super easy to get out with simply a punch to push it out from the inside.
1FK-14147-00-00 is the o-ring part# and the cap/plug is #41R-14118-01-00 for the needle valve assembly 😁
Thanks for the video fella. Reckon I'll just leave the seat in mine and see how she runs with a new needle. Definitely looks like more of a chore than it needs to be
Excellent video. Thanks.
Bloody buety M8, thanks for showing.
Hello. I really appreciate your videos. I was cleaning my carb and noticed that main jets and needles are different sizes in front and back carb. To be sure witch goes where, I checked on the internet, but there is conflicting information. Could you clarify that?
Hello. There should only be one setting for your bike, the conflicting information you find is coming from different models and years in different countries. USA models will have different jetting because they have different emission rules, even inside the USA the California models have different settings, so as Canada and so on. Make sure you locate your bike properly and you should be able to find the relevant information in the manuals...
Pilot screws are fairly easily removed by using s left-handed drill and drillling away the broad part, then getting the spring, washer and o-ring out. I did it a couple of weeks back with the carbs on the bike.
Hi, yeah I understand what you mean. I don't have a pillar drill to not mess up th thread in the body, and to be honest I wanted to try the Lifan carbs out so this was a good excuse to spend the money on them🤦♂️😆 Thanks for watching😉👍
Awesome video great job! Yeah by the parts picture it comes with the seat and the valve it looks only like it will come out the one way and destroy the screen but if you're getting new one doesn't matter... Thanks!!
Yes exactly...it wasn't that hard to be honest and obviously the drilling is not necessary, unless you only make a small hole, use self tapping screw, pull it out and if you went through then just solder the hole back and should be fine..👍
@@MidlandCruiser awesome 😎
@@MidlandCruiser yeah in my kit it came with the valve seat with screen on it and needle valve. Btw it looks yeah you could just hit out get a new o-ring for the plug and tap in.. at first I didn't know what it was till I looked online and seen they came as a kit and I was like oh... 😂 Lol I shop at Partzilla and if you go there you'll see what I'm talking about when you by the valve the seat comes with it.. I didn't change mine.. but I may, I'm going to take apart crankcase bc of a leak if I can't get this Permatex sealing spray to stop the leak.. it supposedly wicks into the gasket or sealant. I don't think it's going to work but hey I'm gonna try. If not oh well it's time for it anyway...
Great video!! Thanks 😊
@@MidlandCruiser Do you still have this carb? I need the drain fitting from it... Mine broke off and it's had to jb weld it and I didn't do good job and I have to hold the hose on most the time to check the fuel level.. would you be willing to sell the fitting?
Great video. Use a punch and hammer to drive it out.
Hey buddy!! Which way do you think it goes back in? I was thinking 🤔 to take off the new filter and punch it in till it bottoms and put filter on and new o-ring on the plug and put that in and punch it on the sides to secure it better.. idk whatcha think?
Yeah, I think that should work. Just be careful with the filter, fiddly little bastard😄
@@MidlandCruiser do you think the seat could go in the same way you punched it out?
@@MidlandCruiser I noticed that too with the filter on one of my rebuild kits I took it off and it was not as tight as before and came off easier that's not good.
@@MidlandCruiser what do you think? It can't go in the same way and gotta take filter off? And what suggestions do you have to be careful and not mess up filter? Thanks mate!!
@@karlh4313 yes it should go back in from the plug side and sits on the cast aluminium. You could use some petrol resistant threadlock to keep it secure or glue, just need to be resistant to petrol...put some on the surface where it sits and will be fine.
My advice for the filter is to take it off gently, and again if needed use petrol resistant glue and put a tiny bit on the bottom of the filter and click it back on..should be fine
Might be able to solder or weld something onto the cap so you can grab it instead of drilling and tapping. Doesn't seem like it put up that much of a fight. Awesome info anyway
Yes good idea...solder or Tig brazing might work. I wasn't sure what to expect so I just went in full throttle 😁
The plug came put fairly easy, the valve seat needed a bit hammering, because that was a bit tighter...
Hi Lorant!. this is a Roman from russia. thanks for another video. tell me which owner's manual you use in your work. I want to buy. what do you advise
Hello. If you join the Virago Nation Facebook group, there, in the files section you can download both manual in pdf, for free, with other useful pdf in there too. I use both Haynes and Clymer manuals, sometimes 1 is missing an info or sometimes, some things are explained better in one than the other.
@@MidlandCruiser thanks!!! I will buy Haynes and Clymer!!!
Any new vids coming soon ?
I am trying my best to start up again...but currently busy with other stuff, and at work. I haven't done anything to the bike so will carry on from the last video..sorry about it.