Dude these vids are great. I am looking to build my own arcade and I was wondering if you sell 4player button kits I can install myself? Im looking for LED buttons :D
We sure do! Check out our website at www.retroactivearcade.ca/collections/arcade-bundles. Feel free to contact Customer Service as well with any questions!
Very interesting video.....I built my cocktail arcade with the zippy, not knowing much about the different joystick qualities.....18 months on and they're going great, but this gives me food for thought when it comes time to replace.....
Is the ultimarc 360 the only one you know of that can do full x and y axis movement? Are there any others that get the full spectrum more more a modern video game thumb stick? Im thinking of putting an indie game in a cabinet and it requires this full range of movement.
OK... Question for you. I want to build a Atari Assault cabinet and game. The original game came with Flight/Zaxxon/Tron style joysticks that have a trigger and housing on the stick itself. Is there a way to retrofit a new joystick to work with the original housings and trigger? The Assault housing are available online but i don't know how to put the two together...
check out a GRS Arcade Flight Stick by tsticks (Baolian Industry Co. Tron stick remake). The orignal stick parts needs to be retrofitted and you need a lathe to cut a length of hollow rod with groves for the clips before mounting the housing halves.
@rompingrumpys it's great but it is sensitive. You have to relearn how to play some games but all and all it's a quality product. Ultimarc has dialed in most of their products to become the benchmark.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa I installed them on my MAME cabinet. They are tricky to get working with Windows. As you stated, they are super sensitive. I bought the stiffer springs which should come standard. However, they automatically switch between 4 way and 8 way through programming with no actuators needed. In addition, they are good to use with games that have cross hairs, or as a substitute roller ball. Your videos are awesome. Thank you.
Question! I built a cabinet and I'm testing the buttons and sticks at the moment. I have an analog joystick and I've noticed it hits the sides of the holes in the cabinet a bit. Is there a type of cushion or cover for the hole that doesn't interfere with the 8 directional switches? Also I'm worried the mounting screws for the joystick will come off the cabinet, any advice on how to make sure it stays mounted properly? (Wood glue on the screws or something?) Thanks
Hi, the joystick hitting the sides of the hole is 1 of 2 issues either your holes are too small (usually holes are same as button holes) or you stick is mounted too low. Most people would resess the bottom of the wood about a 1/4" on a 3/4" panel so it allows for more travel. You can use a grommet/dowel insert for your screws or you can use crush/lock washers where your screw heads meet the joystick so the screws don't wiggle out over time. The best way is to use a small carriage bolt right through the control panel for optimal strength but guys don't like seeing the screws so......
@@RetroactivearcadeCa awesome thank you for the quick reply! I'll play around with the hole and see what I can do. Carriage bolt is a good idea, I could make it so the vinyl I'm going toinstall will cover the bolt. Thanks a lot!
@@nephilimbray Hole issue: bigger hole or router 1/4" from bottom to raise mount. You can router the top hole with a 1/4" round or 45 angle to open the hole a bit (chamfered inside edge); or just drill a bigger hole. It is covered by the dust cover. Carriage bolts - counterbore holes to be flush or use countersink flat heads and countersink the hole to be flush. First method used on arcades to hide bolts under vinyl control top and some holes even epoxied to be flat finish before vinyl covering.
Yeah. They're either on or off, in other words, digital. Analog joysticks operate under a range of voltages, allowing for contol by applying varying positions along a single axis. He has it reversed.
I agree he’s wrong but we had analog media before digital, so in his mind maybe the old microswitches are ‘analog’ and the newer controls with variable positions are ‘digital’.
analogue a person or thing seen as comparable to another. Yah! Reel Tape vs CD, Op amp vs TTL, micro switch vs micro switch. Oh, One don't seem like the other... Who moved that Ultimarc UltraStik? Com'on guys. I'm doin' a very important vid.
And the PCB in the Sanwa JLF doesn't have any capacitors, resistors or chips on it. It's just an easy way to wire it up. It's truly no different than the Happ or IL sticks. they are both very basic digital devices, and there would be zero speed difference between them. Once the switch is pressed, the circuit for that direction is closed, and the signal is immediate.
I have a arcade1up mortal kombat. Is there any better 8 way fight joysticks you can recommend that will work. The joystick it comes with it doesn’t seem so loose. It’s kind of like tight.
@Scorpion-gf3ek yes, they are a direct swap to most joysticks, we recommend the Suzo Happ Competion or the Sanwa JLF joysticks. Depending on the wire connections you have you may have to put connectors on your wires.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa anyway you could send me a link of the one I should buy perhaps on Amazon or another place would be great thank you I just wanna make sure I get the right one that will fit my arcade one up
@Scorpion-gf3ek this is our website and joysticks we sell, all of them will work in your machine. Check the specs and measures to ensure a proper hole pattern fit just in case. retroactivearcade.ca/collections/joysticks
So an IL/Happ lever wouldn’t be good for competition? It’s really that much slower than the Japanese digital levers? I had it in my mind that I’d try to recreate an American style fight stick.
A true competition fight stick for newer games like Street Fighter and Mortal Combat on your Xbox or PS 5 use the JLF, Hori etc. If you want to kick it old school and play retro games, The Suzo/IL are the best for those games for sure.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa Thank you for the advice. I just got the IL Eurostick in the mail. I thought it was an exaggeration that the the lever had a lot of tension on it but, no, *it really has a lot of tension!* It feels as if it would be a real workout. I think my Korean back dash would last for a couple games and then my arm would be too tired to do it correctly. lol
Dude these vids are great. I am looking to build my own arcade and I was wondering if you sell 4player button kits I can install myself? Im looking for LED buttons :D
We sure do! Check out our website at www.retroactivearcade.ca/collections/arcade-bundles. Feel free to contact Customer Service as well with any questions!
I thought you had a video about trackball and spinners, did you take it down?
Very interesting video.....I built my cocktail arcade with the zippy, not knowing much about the different joystick qualities.....18 months on and they're going great, but this gives me food for thought when it comes time to replace.....
Is the ultimarc 360 the only one you know of that can do full x and y axis movement? Are there any others that get the full spectrum more more a modern video game thumb stick? Im thinking of putting an indie game in a cabinet and it requires this full range of movement.
OK... Question for you. I want to build a Atari Assault cabinet and game. The original game came with Flight/Zaxxon/Tron style joysticks that have a trigger and housing on the stick itself. Is there a way to retrofit a new joystick to work with the original housings and trigger? The Assault housing are available online but i don't know how to put the two together...
check out a GRS Arcade Flight Stick by tsticks (Baolian Industry Co. Tron stick remake). The orignal stick parts needs to be retrofitted and you need a lathe to cut a length of hollow rod with groves for the clips before mounting the housing halves.
There are many vids on youtube showing mods using the GRS Arcade Tron/Flight Stick
Quick question but when doing cleaning/maintenance on a iL eurojoystick does it need any lubricant like a jlf?
It wouldn't hurt to do it but you don't have to.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa Gotcha and thanks boss.
Have you ever tried the Ultimarc Ultrastik 360? What are your thoughts?
@rompingrumpys it's great but it is sensitive. You have to relearn how to play some games but all and all it's a quality product. Ultimarc has dialed in most of their products to become the benchmark.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa I installed them on my MAME cabinet. They are tricky to get working with Windows. As you stated, they are super sensitive. I bought the stiffer springs which should come standard. However, they automatically switch between 4 way and 8 way through programming with no actuators needed. In addition, they are good to use with games that have cross hairs, or as a substitute roller ball. Your videos are awesome. Thank you.
Question! I built a cabinet and I'm testing the buttons and sticks at the moment.
I have an analog joystick and I've noticed it hits the sides of the holes in the cabinet a bit.
Is there a type of cushion or cover for the hole that doesn't interfere with the 8 directional switches?
Also I'm worried the mounting screws for the joystick will come off the cabinet, any advice on how to make sure it stays mounted properly? (Wood glue on the screws or something?)
Thanks
Hi, the joystick hitting the sides of the hole is 1 of 2 issues either your holes are too small (usually holes are same as button holes) or you stick is mounted too low. Most people would resess the bottom of the wood about a 1/4" on a 3/4" panel so it allows for more travel.
You can use a grommet/dowel insert for your screws or you can use crush/lock washers where your screw heads meet the joystick so the screws don't wiggle out over time. The best way is to use a small carriage bolt right through the control panel for optimal strength but guys don't like seeing the screws so......
@@RetroactivearcadeCa awesome thank you for the quick reply! I'll play around with the hole and see what I can do. Carriage bolt is a good idea, I could make it so the vinyl I'm going toinstall will cover the bolt.
Thanks a lot!
@@nephilimbray Hole issue: bigger hole or router 1/4" from bottom to raise mount. You can router the top hole with a 1/4" round or 45 angle to open the hole a bit (chamfered inside edge); or just drill a bigger hole. It is covered by the dust cover.
Carriage bolts - counterbore holes to be flush or use countersink flat heads and countersink the hole to be flush. First method used on arcades to hide bolts under vinyl control top and some holes even epoxied to be flat finish before vinyl covering.
Just to point out, microswitch joysticks aren't analogue.
Yeah. They're either on or off, in other words, digital. Analog joysticks operate under a range of voltages, allowing for contol by applying varying positions along a single axis. He has it reversed.
I agree he’s wrong but we had analog media before digital, so in his mind maybe the old microswitches are ‘analog’ and the newer controls with variable positions are ‘digital’.
@@glxxyz A common misconception, no doubt.
analogue
a person or thing seen as comparable to another.
Yah! Reel Tape vs CD, Op amp vs TTL, micro switch vs micro switch.
Oh, One don't seem like the other...
Who moved that Ultimarc UltraStik? Com'on guys. I'm doin' a very important vid.
And the PCB in the Sanwa JLF doesn't have any capacitors, resistors or chips on it. It's just an easy way to wire it up. It's truly no different than the Happ or IL sticks. they are both very basic digital devices, and there would be zero speed difference between them. Once the switch is pressed, the circuit for that direction is closed, and the signal is immediate.
I have a arcade1up mortal kombat. Is there any better 8 way fight joysticks you can recommend that will work. The joystick it comes with it doesn’t seem so loose. It’s kind of like tight.
@Scorpion-gf3ek yes, they are a direct swap to most joysticks, we recommend the Suzo Happ Competion or the Sanwa JLF joysticks. Depending on the wire connections you have you may have to put connectors on your wires.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa OK so those joysticks that you recommended they get more springy effect to it instead of tight movement.
@@Scorpion-gf3ek for sure. The Suzo Happ Competion joysticks are pretty much what was in the original MK arcade cabinets
@@RetroactivearcadeCa anyway you could send me a link of the one I should buy perhaps on Amazon or another place would be great thank you I just wanna make sure I get the right one that will fit my arcade one up
@Scorpion-gf3ek this is our website and joysticks we sell, all of them will work in your machine. Check the specs and measures to ensure a proper hole pattern fit just in case.
retroactivearcade.ca/collections/joysticks
I have an arcade stick, pin and I wanted to use it in a synth project
So an IL/Happ lever wouldn’t be good for competition? It’s really that much slower than the Japanese digital levers? I had it in my mind that I’d try to recreate an American style fight stick.
A true competition fight stick for newer games like Street Fighter and Mortal Combat on your Xbox or PS 5 use the JLF, Hori etc. If you want to kick it old school and play retro games, The Suzo/IL are the best for those games for sure.
@@RetroactivearcadeCa Thank you for the advice. I just got the IL Eurostick in the mail. I thought it was an exaggeration that the the lever had a lot of tension on it but, no, *it really has a lot of tension!* It feels as if it would be a real workout. I think my Korean back dash would last for a couple games and then my arm would be too tired to do it correctly. lol
Nice video!!!! ty!
literally everyone who does competition fighting uses sanwa. Literally everyone.
I’m pretty sure Seimitsu is popular among the Tekken crowd.
why do you look like elon musk