NIce tips, would be nice to see close up, to see how all the hub models are similar. I need to possibly service my clients rear King R45 hub, but aside from being loud, still runs nice with no hesitation, so at what point do we know when we need to service? Is loudness level and indicator?
The reason it lost its loud noise is the thick lubricant is acting like a buffer. The sound will return to your hub after a couple rides as the viscosity of the lubricant will begin to break down and diminish the buffering.
That's an informative comment sir. Sir may I ask if, it will return to its normal loud state when used for a period of time? What should I do sir to get it back to its loud state? Thanks sir in advanced.
Hello, could you do a vid for stripping a front hub, I cannot seem to remove the spindle. Looks like the threads make it larger than the bearing inner diameter.
Any chance a video can be made showing how to service the actual bearing. and 2nd request, know it's simple enough, but how about the front hub, everyone seems to skip it. thanks G
I have a new pair of king iso hubs on my Yo Eddy 2.1 and the rear is way quieter than my 20 year old king hub on a different bike. I'm really tempted to do a quick service to remove the excess factory grease and re-apply a bit thinner lube to get the buzz I want to hear. bad idea?
The viscosity of the lube is what is most relevant. Too thin and the surfaces will wear prematurely too thick and the works will gum up and provide unnecessary friction and possibly cause the ring drive to not engage.. So in short, there is no chain lube I would recommend for this or any hub driver mechanism.
So u can just use any kind of lube.. for exesample could i just use a normal wet chain lube? Does an exepensive hub like this.. really not require something like a "special" Chris King grease or lube..?
The viscosity of the lube is what is most relevant. Too thin and the surfaces will wear prematurely too thick and the works will gum up and provide unnecessary friction and possibly cause the ring drive to not engage.. So in short, there is no chain lube I would recommend for this or any hub driver mechanism.
any Chris KIng owner should folow this tip, as that Phile tenacious is great stuff that lasts, going with just any chain oil will allow more wear, and you ask later was it worth that lil money saved?
+k3n6y Phil woods tenacious oil is not recommended for lube on the helix splines. They recommend triflow for the splines. The drive and driven rings on the other hand should have ringdrive lube.
@@richardcraig9039 hi- i wanted to get back to you about the squeak. i eventually found it. turned out to be a dry outboard drive shell bearing. So cheers for your support on that. Another question though relating to lubricants. I just received 2 types of lubricants from CK. one is the Ring Drive lub 2.0 and the other is the Bearing hub performance Grease. Arent these essentially doing the same thing. ? The manual only refers to Ringdrive lub for bearings and all else. No mention of the grease. Can you clarify.? regards, Antony
Hi, i have a slight squeak coming from my rear CK hub. The wheel seems tights, ie, no lateral play, just a squeak when pedaling forward. Any thoughts on how to tqckle this? Cheers for your video and appreciate any help, Regards, Ant
If you are using a skewer pull it out and lube it thoroughly i.e. at the pivot and the shaft. If that does not fix it your next step is to pull the driver body out and lube. Make sure all metal to metal surfaces receive a thin coat of grease. The drive ring needs a thick oil or a very light grease. Finally, if that does not fix it try putting a light coat of grease where the spoke overlap each other. If that fixes the problem the wheel tension will need to be brought back up.
Hi Richard, I tried those suggestions and the squeak persists!! A few observations though. 1. Squeak seems to be coming from the colet area. 2. Squeak goes away if I back the colet off. But in doing so I'm seeing the lateral free play in the wheel from side to side increase. 3. I have removed the driver body mech out. Applied light grease to all the metal including the inner drive ring. 4. Removed the snap ring and seal from small bearing , non driver side and applied some teflon lub. I did notice the inner casing on this bearing seemed a little sloppy. Ie. if I place a finger in the bearing hole, the inner casing holding the bearings is a bit loose. The large opposite bearing driver cassette side is rigid. Anyway. The squeak is driving me and my riding buddies crazy. Any further analysis is welcome. Regards, Ant
@@rieckstudio First off regarding the movement at the bearing, the CK bearings are not like a traditional cartridge bearing as it is a Angular Contact bearing (more similar to a Cup Cone bearing). The cone shape of the collet and the races means it centers and tightens as side load is applied. That being said there is defiantly a right and wrong way to install that type of bearing. If the bearing was uninstalled and re installed backwards that would be a major problem. Aside from that try applying some grease to the cone interface of the collet and the bearing. Remember, metal on metal movement is what cause squeaking.
Jesteś spaniałym człowiekiem dziękuję za ta wypowiedź. I trzymaj się tam cholera jasna.
Oki
NIce tips, would be nice to see close up, to see how all the hub models are similar. I need to possibly service my clients rear King R45 hub, but aside from being loud, still runs nice with no hesitation, so at what point do we know when we need to service? Is loudness level and indicator?
The reason it lost its loud noise is the thick lubricant is acting like a buffer. The sound will return to your hub after a couple rides as the viscosity of the lubricant will begin to break down and diminish the buffering.
That's an informative comment sir. Sir may I ask if, it will return to its normal loud state when used for a period of time? What should I do sir to get it back to its loud state? Thanks sir in advanced.
+Lenard Vinci Catabay simply ride the hub. once ridden for about 5 to 10 hours all should be just as loud as before.
+Richard Craig Thanks for that sir. Is there a probability that it will take longer time for it to return back sir? Thanks again sir.
Yes, since the oil is affected by heat the ambient temperature can play a roll in how long it takes for the lube to become less viscous (thin out).
Hello, could you do a vid for stripping a front hub, I cannot seem to remove the spindle. Looks like the threads make it larger than the bearing inner diameter.
Great reference. Thanks.
Any chance a video can be made showing how to service the actual bearing.
and 2nd request, know it's simple enough, but how about the front hub, everyone seems to skip it.
thanks
G
George you mean the main axle bearings? I bet thats another video?
@@jackmacdonald7636 I"m sure, but I haven't been able to find it in all my looking. so if anyone has would appreciate a link.
Excellent explanation!
I have a new pair of king iso hubs on my Yo Eddy 2.1 and the rear is way quieter than my 20 year old king hub on a different bike. I'm really tempted to do a quick service to remove the excess factory grease and re-apply a bit thinner lube to get the buzz I want to hear. bad idea?
Brilliant video.
You didn't show the inside of the hub, where you lubed it. Looks way too easy. Thanks.
The viscosity of the lube is what is most relevant. Too thin and the surfaces will wear prematurely too thick and the works will gum up and provide unnecessary friction and possibly cause the ring drive to not engage..
So in short, there is no chain lube I would recommend for this or any hub driver mechanism.
👌
didn't seem too dirty in the first place ;)
So u can just use any kind of lube..
for exesample could i just use a normal wet chain lube?
Does an exepensive hub like this.. really not require something like a "special" Chris King grease or lube..?
The viscosity of the lube is what is most relevant. Too thin and the surfaces will wear prematurely too thick and the works will gum up and provide unnecessary friction and possibly cause the ring drive to not engage..
So in short, there is no chain lube I would recommend for this or any hub driver mechanism.
any Chris KIng owner should folow this tip, as that Phile tenacious is great stuff that lasts, going with just any chain oil will allow more wear, and you ask later was it worth that lil money saved?
I'm late but for future viewers, I'd only use CK ring drive lube 2.0. It's the best.
Is it supposed to be this quiet ?
my ck hub lost its loud sound after a service.....is it possible if the spring has weaken?
+k3n6y Phil woods tenacious oil is not recommended for lube on the helix splines. They recommend triflow for the splines. The drive and driven rings on the other hand should have ringdrive lube.
Except for the R45/R45D which should use synthetic motor oil
k3n6y Chris King uses 10w full synthetic motor oil in all hubs now, not just the R45
I have been rebuilt thousands of CK hubs of all models and have found no issue using the Phil Wood tenacious oil.
@@richardcraig9039 hi- i wanted to get back to you about the squeak. i eventually found it. turned out to be a dry outboard drive shell bearing. So cheers for your support on that. Another question though relating to lubricants. I just received 2 types of lubricants from CK. one is the Ring Drive lub 2.0 and the other is the Bearing hub performance Grease. Arent these essentially doing the same thing. ? The manual only refers to Ringdrive lub for bearings and all else. No mention of the grease. Can you clarify.? regards, Antony
Sounds like Michael Faulk, Autistic reporter for the Onion.
how about Engine oil Synthetic ?? or Diff oil synthetic !!!!!
Hi, i have a slight squeak coming from my rear CK hub. The wheel seems tights, ie, no lateral play, just a squeak when pedaling forward. Any thoughts on how to tqckle this?
Cheers for your video and appreciate any help,
Regards,
Ant
If you are using a skewer pull it out and lube it thoroughly i.e. at the pivot and the shaft. If that does not fix it your next step is to pull the driver body out and lube. Make sure all metal to metal surfaces receive a thin coat of grease. The drive ring needs a thick oil or a very light grease. Finally, if that does not fix it try putting a light coat of grease where the spoke overlap each other. If that fixes the problem the wheel tension will need to be brought back up.
Hi Richard, thank you for the suggestions! I’ll let you know how i get on.
Regards,
Ant from Western Australia
Hi Richard, I tried those suggestions and the squeak persists!!
A few observations though.
1. Squeak seems to be coming from the colet area.
2. Squeak goes away if I back the colet off. But in doing so I'm seeing the lateral free play in the wheel from side to side increase.
3. I have removed the driver body mech out. Applied light grease to all the metal including the inner drive ring.
4. Removed the snap ring and seal from small bearing , non driver side and applied some teflon lub. I did notice the inner casing on this bearing seemed a little sloppy. Ie. if I place a finger in the bearing hole, the inner casing holding the bearings is a bit loose. The large opposite bearing driver cassette side is rigid.
Anyway. The squeak is driving me and my riding buddies crazy. Any further analysis is welcome.
Regards,
Ant
@@rieckstudio First off regarding the movement at the bearing, the CK bearings are not like a traditional cartridge bearing as it is a Angular Contact bearing (more similar to a Cup Cone bearing). The cone shape of the collet and the races means it centers and tightens as side load is applied. That being said there is defiantly a right and wrong way to install that type of bearing. If the bearing was uninstalled and re installed backwards that would be a major problem. Aside from that try applying some grease to the cone interface of the collet and the bearing. Remember, metal on metal movement is what cause squeaking.
@@rieckstudio Hey I know this was while back, but I have the same problem in my hub. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
Best to get a different brand and save money and time servicing.