My upstairs neighbor lol. I'm moving out in 3 months as soon as my lease ends and I'm never living under someone else ever again. Good luck to the person who will live in my apartment after me. I'm patient and not noisy at all, but the next person might not be as kind as me. 🙂
What I did in my house reno was: Underside: 1) Filled all joist spaces with rockwool 2) added Sonopan to the ceiling and caulked all corners 3) Installed resbar 4) 5/8 drywall or SilentFX depending on area above Above: 1) concrete self leveling as the flooring needed leveling 2) SonopanX while caulking all edges and using acusticseal as an adhesive 3) Specific underlay, which had a good IIC rating 4) a thicker laminate.
@thejbgc I would have liked to have used an MVL but went with a more cost-effective route as it wasn't in my budget. I went with 3mm memory foam underlay that has a STC of 78 and IIC of 75.
if you cant modify the source (upstair's floor) and you cant open the ceilling then the third and final option that i havent seen mentioned anywhere but ill be attempting is to make a false ceiling. reasoning being structure noise (like foot steps) are already reaching your ceilling rn, attaching anything to it like more drywall wont really help, the vibration will just get transferred to that. you could try those metal tracks (i forgot the name) but because your whole ceiling is vibrating, you'd only have one layer of drywall blocking all that noise so its no bueno imo. my plan is to simply add insulation right on the existing ceiling so i dont have to touch it, dmg it, etc. then i need a way to support it and preferably hide it. wood to hold it up is the obvious choice but again it cant be screwed to the ceiling or we're back to square one. the solution i came up with is to instead connect 12 foot long boards from wall to wall as people dont really walk close to the walls so the small amount of vibration going into the studs from their floor and transfered the new false ceilling's wood would be 1/10th of what it is now. damage to the apartement would be a couple screw holes which is easily patchable when you move out so any landlord complaining about it can easily be ignored. the most annoying part is once you got the insulation in place and the wood boards you need to cover it up. so that means drywall installation which can be a pain but again its being installed on your wood you paid for and easy enough to tear out when you move with just screw holes to patch in the walls aka landlord might not like it but it is not permanent nor damaging so what can they do aside from complaining. either way its worth the risk for me as some evenings becomes unlivable in my apartment when upstair has people coming over all stomping around.
another idea brewing in my mind tho it might be canada only is to use SONOpan boards. they're effectively just insulation compressed to 3/4 thickness but because they have rigidity, fairly light weight and accept acoustic caulking it could be possible to not need any of those 12' wood boards as support and just literally glue them using acoustic / red devil / any 50 year caulking right to the ceiling under a layer of 1/16th MDF/HDF. this simplifies installation a lot, the MDF/HDF/Ply/etc is screwed in the ceiling to create a surface the sonopan can be glued to so later on when i move i can remove it by ripping it off the mdf/hdf as it will be held with glue (caulk), then unscrew those 1/16th sheets, patch the screw holes, done. caviat with this is i'd sacrifice some noise barrier since it'd be pressed on the ceilling but given that its not rigid like drywall, wood, etc and is made of "soundproof" material it would probly not transmit most of the ceiling vibrations (i need to test how good/bad that'd be by tapping on it when i go to the hardware store next time). oh and for covering it up? i was thinking not even using drywall and just paint it? the texture on it is like OBS so assuming primer can bond to it i'd prime and do like a popcorn texture a roller with 3/4 or bigger nap to hide the OBS-like look. so no 12' boards or drywall just 1/16 ply/hdf/mdf, box of short screws, 2 layers sonopan to be sure, quite a few caulk tubes, big nap roller and much easier installation.
Would there be a benefit in putting the Mass Loaded Vinyl in between the floor joists and plywood floor sheets? Instead of putting the MLV on top of the wood and under the carpet? I’m about to do my bedroom
That all sounds good, but could you give us a more concrete idea of how much reduction in impact noise we can expect by correctly installing resilient channels/drywall?
@@ashfaqurrahman9134 Yes, moving is expensive, but enduring some of the noises I've heard in my years living in new construction. Your mental health is the most important
@@JaBlanche i get it definately mental health is most important but there are people out there who cant buy a house or rent expensive homes such people have the choice of either becoming homeless or stay there and find other means to deal with it
Curious. What would happen if add 1/8 inch MILV at the screw point of resilient channel? My thought, cut 1 inch squares and glue at the point of attachment.
Hi ! My ceiling in the basement has a big metal tube (air duct for ventilation). We are soundproofing a room, but I fear this duct will be the limiter for how good the results will be, especially because of the opening that allows for air to go into the room. Any recommendations/videos where you mention how to deal with this ? Thanks !
I have no knowledge on any of this, but I do have a serious noise pollution problem from the flat above. It's an old social housing rental, so basically they don't want to spend money on it. Just a thought, which is probably a total non starter, but I'll ask anyway. Would cork tiles on my ceiling have 'any' sound insulating quality?
You'd probably have better results with the acoustic drywall. He showed that. It's two layers of drywall with something in between. Just rent a thing to lift it with from Home Depot if you're doing it yourself. Use wood screws to attach it if it's in an old house. Then when you move out all you have to do to remove it is unscrew it and fill the holes with spackle or drywall compound and paint it to match the rest of the ceiling. Good luck!!!
The only way to use MLV is to have it floating or suspended in-between system, having it on the ground or inbetween drywall layers will null its effectiveness and be wasted money.
I have a completely decoupled dry wall ceiling. The entire structure acts like a loud speaker - I have been in the flat above me and walking on the floor is amplified by about 3x in my flat below. Reduction at source is the only meaningful solution.
Decoupled definitely makes a huge difference, my bedroom is decoupled and my hall way is not, the noise muffled in the room and loud as hell in the hall
Seems to me that resilient channel still isn't actually |decoupling| the materials as even in the ideal install the screws from the joists will still transfer vibration to the resilient channel and subsequently the drywall
Hi there, Great channel! I was hoping to get your input on a soundproofing my loft ceiling. I currently live in a loft with exposed ceiling, conduits, duct work etc. The building was an old factory that was retrofitted into residential units. The ceiling is comprised of 2x6 Douglas Furr planks. I'm looking to reduce the impact of extremely loud footsteps and dog running up and down the floor from the neighbors upstairs. It is practically unbearable. I cannot add sound reduced insulation because it is not a typical ceiling with horizontal joists and cavity space in between. Rather the ceiling is flat and comprised of 2x6 Douglas Furr planks running flat, as such, no cavity space to fill insulation. That said, my goal is to maintain the loft look of exposed wood ceilings and beams. What are your thoughts on the installation process? Any better suggestions? Step1. Install isolation clips and run through hat or resiliant channel. Step2. Install sound reduced drywall or sonopan? Step3. Finish the ceiling with large 1x6 clear Ash ¼” reveal plank for maintaining the loft character of the building. Is Sonopan worth this investment? Should the drywall or Sonopan be screwed first to the existing ceiling then installation clips and hat channel followed by drywall etc.? Greatly appreciate all the input. Keep up the great content. Thanks!
a person who stomps while walking will never agree to soundproof their floor :) they are the problem itself.
Aka my 2 year olds 😂
My upstairs neighbor lol. I'm moving out in 3 months as soon as my lease ends and I'm never living under someone else ever again. Good luck to the person who will live in my apartment after me. I'm patient and not noisy at all, but the next person might not be as kind as me. 🙂
The title is misleading
Ever wondered why expensive hotels have a carpet basically everywhere: stairs, corridors, even the walls?
What I did in my house reno was:
Underside:
1) Filled all joist spaces with rockwool
2) added Sonopan to the ceiling and caulked all corners
3) Installed resbar
4) 5/8 drywall or SilentFX depending on area above
Above:
1) concrete self leveling as the flooring needed leveling
2) SonopanX while caulking all edges and using acusticseal as an adhesive
3) Specific underlay, which had a good IIC rating
4) a thicker laminate.
Which specific underlay did you use? Was it an MLV? I am looking to do same thing. Thanks.
@thejbgc I would have liked to have used an MVL but went with a more cost-effective route as it wasn't in my budget. I went with 3mm memory foam underlay that has a STC of 78 and IIC of 75.
Worked?
Sound Proof Creeky floor as well is a great video he has that may help lots!
if you cant modify the source (upstair's floor) and you cant open the ceilling then the third and final option that i havent seen mentioned anywhere but ill be attempting is to make a false ceiling. reasoning being structure noise (like foot steps) are already reaching your ceilling rn, attaching anything to it like more drywall wont really help, the vibration will just get transferred to that. you could try those metal tracks (i forgot the name) but because your whole ceiling is vibrating, you'd only have one layer of drywall blocking all that noise so its no bueno imo. my plan is to simply add insulation right on the existing ceiling so i dont have to touch it, dmg it, etc. then i need a way to support it and preferably hide it. wood to hold it up is the obvious choice but again it cant be screwed to the ceiling or we're back to square one. the solution i came up with is to instead connect 12 foot long boards from wall to wall as people dont really walk close to the walls so the small amount of vibration going into the studs from their floor and transfered the new false ceilling's wood would be 1/10th of what it is now. damage to the apartement would be a couple screw holes which is easily patchable when you move out so any landlord complaining about it can easily be ignored. the most annoying part is once you got the insulation in place and the wood boards you need to cover it up. so that means drywall installation which can be a pain but again its being installed on your wood you paid for and easy enough to tear out when you move with just screw holes to patch in the walls aka landlord might not like it but it is not permanent nor damaging so what can they do aside from complaining. either way its worth the risk for me as some evenings becomes unlivable in my apartment when upstair has people coming over all stomping around.
another idea brewing in my mind tho it might be canada only is to use SONOpan boards. they're effectively just insulation compressed to 3/4 thickness but because they have rigidity, fairly light weight and accept acoustic caulking it could be possible to not need any of those 12' wood boards as support and just literally glue them using acoustic / red devil / any 50 year caulking right to the ceiling under a layer of 1/16th MDF/HDF. this simplifies installation a lot, the MDF/HDF/Ply/etc is screwed in the ceiling to create a surface the sonopan can be glued to so later on when i move i can remove it by ripping it off the mdf/hdf as it will be held with glue (caulk), then unscrew those 1/16th sheets, patch the screw holes, done. caviat with this is i'd sacrifice some noise barrier since it'd be pressed on the ceilling but given that its not rigid like drywall, wood, etc and is made of "soundproof" material it would probly not transmit most of the ceiling vibrations (i need to test how good/bad that'd be by tapping on it when i go to the hardware store next time). oh and for covering it up? i was thinking not even using drywall and just paint it? the texture on it is like OBS so assuming primer can bond to it i'd prime and do like a popcorn texture a roller with 3/4 or bigger nap to hide the OBS-like look. so no 12' boards or drywall just 1/16 ply/hdf/mdf, box of short screws, 2 layers sonopan to be sure, quite a few caulk tubes, big nap roller and much easier installation.
I will put a cork sheet after filling holes and cracks in the building, paste to the floor and then put the spc floor. It will work?
Would there be a benefit in putting the Mass Loaded Vinyl in between the floor joists and plywood floor sheets? Instead of putting the MLV on top of the wood and under the carpet? I’m about to do my bedroom
How would you handle decoupling in a room with a tray ceiling?
Where’s the cheapest place to buy the mass loaded vinyl?
That all sounds good, but could you give us a more concrete idea of how much reduction in impact noise we can expect by correctly installing resilient channels/drywall?
Best solution = Move
I find engineered hardwood amplifies foot noise.
Definitely the best solution if you can afford it!
Obvious solution, if you have the money.
Not best everyone cant afford that
@@ashfaqurrahman9134 Yes, moving is expensive, but enduring some of the noises I've heard in my years living in new construction. Your mental health is the most important
@@JaBlanche i get it definately mental health is most important but there are people out there who cant buy a house or rent expensive homes such people have the choice of either becoming homeless or stay there and find other means to deal with it
Curious. What would happen if add 1/8 inch MILV at the screw point of resilient channel? My thought, cut 1 inch squares and glue at the point of attachment.
Please can you give a high price tips for building if you are living down from people and you cannot down the ceiling too low?
Hi !
My ceiling in the basement has a big metal tube (air duct for ventilation). We are soundproofing a room, but I fear this duct will be the limiter for how good the results will be, especially because of the opening that allows for air to go into the room. Any recommendations/videos where you mention how to deal with this ?
Thanks !
It was me but when you started talking about resilient channel picture shown was from a wall and the channel was installed upside down?
1:50,good advice! That added padding would be nice
I have no knowledge on any of this, but I do have a serious noise pollution problem from the flat above. It's an old social housing rental, so basically they don't want to spend money on it. Just a thought, which is probably a total non starter, but I'll ask anyway. Would cork tiles on my ceiling have 'any' sound insulating quality?
You'd probably have better results with the acoustic drywall. He showed that. It's two layers of drywall with something in between. Just rent a thing to lift it with from Home Depot if you're doing it yourself. Use wood screws to attach it if it's in an old house. Then when you move out all you have to do to remove it is unscrew it and fill the holes with spackle or drywall compound and paint it to match the rest of the ceiling. Good luck!!!
all my rooms are box in box construction it is really awesome
I don't know what I am doing in here... But thanks!
The only way to use MLV is to have it floating or suspended in-between system, having it on the ground or inbetween drywall layers will null its effectiveness and be wasted money.
have you reviewed sonopan?
Not yet.
dont waste your money with that stuff. You need mass to block sound plus decoupling.
I have a completely decoupled dry wall ceiling. The entire structure acts like a loud speaker - I have been in the flat above me and walking on the floor is amplified by about 3x in my flat below. Reduction at source is the only meaningful solution.
Strange. Must not have done it correctly perhaps?
Decoupled definitely makes a huge difference, my bedroom is decoupled and my hall way is not, the noise muffled in the room and loud as hell in the hall
That is bizarre, did you fill it with insulation and seal everything all around? i did it for a drum room and the sound reduction was incredible.
I don't have a trouble with people walking above me I just have people want beside my house I live in an apartment my house
Seems to me that resilient channel still isn't actually |decoupling| the materials as even in the ideal install the screws from the joists will still transfer vibration to the resilient channel and subsequently the drywall
maybe rubber washers or something could further mitigate
Hi there, Great channel! I was hoping to get your input on a soundproofing my loft ceiling.
I currently live in a loft with exposed ceiling, conduits, duct work etc. The building was an old factory that was retrofitted into residential units.
The ceiling is comprised of 2x6 Douglas Furr planks. I'm looking to reduce the impact of extremely loud footsteps and dog running up and down the floor from the neighbors upstairs. It is practically unbearable.
I cannot add sound reduced insulation because it is not a typical ceiling with horizontal joists and cavity space in between. Rather the ceiling is flat and comprised of 2x6 Douglas
Furr planks running flat, as such, no cavity space to fill insulation.
That said, my goal is to maintain the loft look of exposed wood ceilings and beams.
What are your thoughts on the installation process?
Any better suggestions?
Step1. Install isolation clips and run through hat or resiliant channel.
Step2. Install sound reduced drywall or sonopan?
Step3. Finish the ceiling with large 1x6 clear Ash ¼” reveal plank for maintaining the loft character of the building.
Is Sonopan worth this investment?
Should the drywall or Sonopan be screwed first to the existing ceiling then installation clips and hat channel followed by drywall etc.?
Greatly appreciate all the input. Keep up the great content.
Thanks!