It's nice to praise yourself. I used to step back sometimes and say I really amaze myself. Nice trim work or the gutters and down-spouts was like putting a hem on your pants, making the job look complete. Back in the day we worked "Tri-state", Jersey, Pa and NYS later SC., by code we weren't allowed to use staples. A good wind storm could tear the first course of siding right out of the starter, so they said. As I said, before I never did new work unless it was my own. I like your videos. Very impressive.
Awesome video, keep up the good work. It's nice to see that I'm not the only one that forgets things and has to remove some siding because you want to do it right.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed them! Not all contractors are dishonest. You sound like a person of integrity. 👍🏼 After reviewing Tyvek install instructions it looks like the top of Z flashing can be taped or lapped. I’m not sure if the brand I used on this house has very specific instructions.
With multiple breaks around doors and windows, how do you end up with them all meeting at the same level ? Do you just constantly measure up to the reference chalk line?
Hi Konrad, yeah chalking a line above openings is a good way to ensure the siding stays straight. There’s a few alternatives too: using a string line set out far enough where it passes by windows without being in contact with them, starting the siding above in a straight line and finishing the wall then coming back down to the bottom and just measuring up to the bottom of the siding, starting siding straight down low if you can and just kind of “sending it” and hoping that they line up up top (not really recommended).
I usually use a 16 gauge x 1 1/4” staple and fasten to plywood. Depending on the type of underlayment and codes in your area you may have to fasten to studs and/or use different fasteners.
I am actually struggling to find a decent siding stapler. The old Paslode that I use achieves a consistent staple depth regardless of whether or not you hit a stud... The new Paslode seems to be inconsistent, but maybe I just need more practice with it (Sometimes it may take a while to learn the tool). The older stapler is the model S200-s16 with the vinyl siding attachment tip # 219051 VINYL SIDING (which is no longer being manufactured), The new stapler is the model SCS200, but I'm having trouble locating the vinyl siding tip.... It might work to find a good quality 1/2" crown 16 gauge stapler and modify a tip to your liking. Sorry I can't be more help... I'll update this if I find more information. Update: So the Vinyl Siding tip part # is 219502 for Paslode SCS200. Still not finding them anywhere online, but a local hardware or lumber company may be able to find it for you.
Hi Wayne, I think you are talking about the slate siding that is more like cement and is just strong on an 1/8” thick? If so, I haven’t had luck stapling through it, staples bend over and crack the cement siding…. Whenever I’ve done those types of jobs I usually try 1/4”-3/8” fanfold insulation then new housewrap (making sure everything is sealed around) I usually just hand nail everything in these cases.
Hi 3n, I’ve used a roofing nailer briefly in the past and wasn’t much of a fan of it. The nails often came out at varying depths and a sometimes little crooked, which in my experience caused the nail to chip the top or bottom of the slot, pinch the siding a little to tight to the wall, and even put a little force towards the bottom of the piece of siding so the clips weren’t fully engaged anymore. This caused me to lose a little height on my courses. All that said…. it could be that I needed more practice on how to position the nail gun. A battery powered gun probably achieves a more consistent depth. I prefer staples because it loops around the nail hem, has a more consistent depth, and shoots in the same exact spot every time.
I’m not sure which situation you are referring to. Maybe above or below the window?… the window has a J-Channel built in. The purpose of undersill is to hold the loose edge of a piece of siding when it is cut horizontally. The undersill helps reduce the chances of the siding bubbling or “oil canning” and also can prevent it from becoming unclipped when used with a snap lock punch.
Yes, I saw you put it under the window. My windows don't have built in j channel. So I install the J and then the undersill to tuck inside the J channel for horizontal cuts? Thanks for your time!
No problem! Yeah, depending on where the coursing lands I would use undersill as well as J-Channel (I use undersill under windows that are wider than 3’ or so, some people use it on windows regardless of the window width). Sometimes if the rib of the siding is too close to the bottom of the window a single undersill doesn’t work and you have to either use a double undersill or build the undersill down by putting one underneath the other…. Pro tip: try to line up the holes in the undersill with the holes in the J-Channel, that way you don’t nail through the plastic on the J-Channel.
Thanks! That makes sense to me… I have been doing what feels right. I should brush up on the specifics though that way I can call them out confidently.
It's nice to praise yourself. I used to step back sometimes and say I really amaze myself. Nice trim work or the gutters and down-spouts was like putting a hem on your pants, making the job look complete. Back in the day we worked "Tri-state", Jersey, Pa and NYS later SC., by code we weren't allowed to use staples. A good wind storm could tear the first course of siding right out of the starter, so they said. As I said, before I never did new work unless it was my own. I like your videos. Very impressive.
Thanks man! It’s good to take pride in our work and to strive to be better. A good tradesman knows we are never done learning.
Awesome video, keep up the good work. It's nice to see that I'm not the only one that forgets things and has to remove some siding because you want to do it right.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed them! Not all contractors are dishonest. You sound like a person of integrity. 👍🏼
After reviewing Tyvek install instructions it looks like the top of Z flashing can be taped or lapped. I’m not sure if the brand I used on this house has very specific instructions.
Great job thank you!
No problem!
Great video very well put together thank you for sharing !!
Glad you like it!
With multiple breaks around doors and windows, how do you end up with them all meeting at the same level ? Do you just constantly measure up to the reference chalk line?
Hi Konrad, yeah chalking a line above openings is a good way to ensure the siding stays straight. There’s a few alternatives too: using a string line set out far enough where it passes by windows without being in contact with them, starting the siding above in a straight line and finishing the wall then coming back down to the bottom and just measuring up to the bottom of the siding, starting siding straight down low if you can and just kind of “sending it” and hoping that they line up up top (not really recommended).
Oh and a laser to shoot across everything, but you need to make sure that your measurements on each corner are accurate.
@@sidingschool a laser instead of a chalk line to reference to?
Yes as long as it works out for the top and bottom of the wall too. Sometimes with re-sides things can get a bit funky.
What size staples do you use? Do you need to go into the studs every time?
I usually use a 16 gauge x 1 1/4” staple and fasten to plywood. Depending on the type of underlayment and codes in your area you may have to fasten to studs and/or use different fasteners.
is the drip catcher at 30 mins in required or can you just use the J?
I believe you are referring to a piece of Z flashing. I’d say it is required. It can be made watertight a lot easier than j channel.
what stapler do you use to put the siding on
I am actually struggling to find a decent siding stapler. The old Paslode that I use achieves a consistent staple depth regardless of whether or not you hit a stud... The new Paslode seems to be inconsistent, but maybe I just need more practice with it (Sometimes it may take a while to learn the tool). The older stapler is the model S200-s16 with the vinyl siding attachment tip # 219051 VINYL SIDING (which is no longer being manufactured), The new stapler is the model SCS200, but I'm having trouble locating the vinyl siding tip.... It might work to find a good quality 1/2" crown 16 gauge stapler and modify a tip to your liking. Sorry I can't be more help... I'll update this if I find more information.
Update: So the Vinyl Siding tip part # is 219502 for Paslode SCS200. Still not finding them anywhere online, but a local hardware or lumber company may be able to find it for you.
@@sidingschool Thanks Was also wondering if the staple gun would work on slate siding. I do not want to take it off.
@@sidingschool you can try the dewalt cordless roofing nailer, you can get a siding tip on the front of it and it lines it up with the slots
Hi Wayne, I think you are talking about the slate siding that is more like cement and is just strong on an 1/8” thick? If so, I haven’t had luck stapling through it, staples bend over and crack the cement siding…. Whenever I’ve done those types of jobs I usually try 1/4”-3/8” fanfold insulation then new housewrap (making sure everything is sealed around) I usually just hand nail everything in these cases.
Hi 3n, I’ve used a roofing nailer briefly in the past and wasn’t much of a fan of it. The nails often came out at varying depths and a sometimes little crooked, which in my experience caused the nail to chip the top or bottom of the slot, pinch the siding a little to tight to the wall, and even put a little force towards the bottom of the piece of siding so the clips weren’t fully engaged anymore. This caused me to lose a little height on my courses.
All that said…. it could be that I needed more practice on how to position the nail gun. A battery powered gun probably achieves a more consistent depth. I prefer staples because it loops around the nail hem, has a more consistent depth, and shoots in the same exact spot every time.
Could you just use j channel instead of undersill? Im not familiar with the undersill and what its purpose is.
I’m not sure which situation you are referring to. Maybe above or below the window?… the window has a J-Channel built in. The purpose of undersill is to hold the loose edge of a piece of siding when it is cut horizontally. The undersill helps reduce the chances of the siding bubbling or “oil canning” and also can prevent it from becoming unclipped when used with a snap lock punch.
Yes, I saw you put it under the window. My windows don't have built in j channel. So I install the J and then the undersill to tuck inside the J channel for horizontal cuts? Thanks for your time!
No problem! Yeah, depending on where the coursing lands I would use undersill as well as J-Channel (I use undersill under windows that are wider than 3’ or so, some people use it on windows regardless of the window width). Sometimes if the rib of the siding is too close to the bottom of the window a single undersill doesn’t work and you have to either use a double undersill or build the undersill down by putting one underneath the other…. Pro tip: try to line up the holes in the undersill with the holes in the J-Channel, that way you don’t nail through the plastic on the J-Channel.
Awesome! Keep doing your thing man. Very helpful, I appreciate your attention to detail.
that little gap, the whole time I was like, just caulk it.
You’ll have to remind me what gap? Lol. It’s been a while since I recorded this one. 😊
1/4" gap above 40°F and 3/8" gap below 40°F
Thanks! That makes sense to me… I have been doing what feels right. I should brush up on the specifics though that way I can call them out confidently.