How to Frame a Basement Wall with Door
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2017
- Coach Tim shows you how to frame up a new basement wall quickly and easily!
If you are remodeling a basement, you may be framing basement walls to separate the space into several rooms. Building extra walls can provide a playroom, bedroom, granny annex, or other usable space that would otherwise go to waste. If you have basic carpentry skills, you should be able to frame your basement yourself. Framing basement walls is not a complicated job, but it will be time consuming. It is something that you should consider if you are planning to do your remodeling during your free time. Follow these steps to frame basement walls.
Step 1 - Create all the Sections Together
If you need to work quickly, you may prefer to install your basement framing after you have built all of the sections. It can be quite complicated, but you can save time when it comes to fitting the frame to the ceiling and floor. If you feel confident about your carpentry skills, you should be able to manage it without problem. Begin by marking the boards where you plan to place the studs. These will need to be 16-inches apart, so plot out your dimensions carefully. You should then draw a line of around .75-inches.
Step 2 - Cut and Fix the Wood
Lay out all the pieces of wood that have been marked with a stud, and take a long piece of 1.5-inch thick wooden board. This board will be your base. Measure from the floor to the ceiling then cut your wooden boards to match. Nail each of these boards to the base board and apply vertical lines. You can do so by measuring the lines with a set square and marking the straight lines with a pencil. You now have a section of frame.
Step 3 - Fit the Boards Together
You can now either join the boards together, or install the sections one at a time. If you are fitting the sections together, you will need a piece of board that is 1.5-inches thick between each section. Join these on to the ends of the baseboard, then screw these two support boards together.
Step 4 - Raise the Boards
When you have joined the boards, you should be ready to raise them. Take your plumb, and hang it from the ceiling. When the plumb is completely vertical, use it to hang a thread along the same line. This line will be the mark by which your board is raised to a straight wall. Lift the wall (get a friend to help if necessary), then screw the top board into the ceiling. Ensure that the floor is straight and screw the base board into the floor. You should now have a frame for your basement wall.
Thank you for not skipping steps and assuming your audience knows the intricacies of this process, like most videos do!
i like the L 2x4 explanation about the drywall how is gonna go, very good, can not assumed people will use their common since on something they don't know,
Thank you so much for posting videos. Out of all the TH-cam videos available, nobody goes through the details and process the way that you do. Setup a patreon account for us supporters to be able to donate!
you are a gooood profesor, i know construction, but i am A/C technician from school not empirical , and when i teach i do from AtoZ step by step when guys get bored, simply they're not interest, but that is how i teach, and you are doing well, good job man
Best wall construction video ever! Every detail shown! Thank you! ❤️
Thanks for watching
Bro you nailed this wall/door tutorial and have given me the confidence to complete a project that I have put off too long for lack of some details that you just answered in this video.
Thanks for watching! Good luck with the project
I’m happy to see you posting more videos.. they are helping a lot with our renovation! Thanks
Thank you! Detailed video and showed exactly what I was trying to do in my basement.
Best one I have seen yet! Thanks much for the education!
Awesome video buddy! Thanks !
You rock! I wish I had come across your video before I started the bathroom. Thanks man (4 years later)...
you came back teache !! lo estabamos estranando professor !!
Great video, as usual. Thanks!
great video and very well explained.
Great video. straight foward and clear. Thanks.
Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for posting this very informative
Best description video I have seen. Very well explained!
Thanks for watching, I appreciate the feedback.
Very well explained and you considered all possible DIY questions one could have and then some.
Thanks for watching!!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching, new videos just released.
Awesome video man
Awesome thank you very much buddy!!!!
Thanks so much appreciate your videoe
Awesome explanation. It's not my specialty, but I decided to give making a wall a try. These detailed explanations make it possible. Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Wonderful and excellent! Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching, new videos just released. Happy diy
thanks for sharing and you did very good job i will follow you
Great video. I think i can do this by myself after watching this... Thanks
That’s great Ron, I’m sure you can. Thanks for watching, new videos coming soon.
Thank you!!! Very good explanation
Thanks buddy, are you working diy?
Tim, good job. Just the right amount of detail for us amateurs. I know quite a bit about framing, but still learned a few good tips. Well done.
Thanks for the feedback. Are you working on any DIY?
@@ConstructionCoach my son and I are finishing his basement as we speak. Ready to build a 36 wall under a beam with 3 doors. No problem for a pro but lots of thinking for us.
That’s fun, I love working with my son. Enjoy!
Good video. I learned a few things I needed to know for putting in a new bathroom wall.
Perfect, are you working on a new bathroom?
@@ConstructionCoach Yes, making our bathroom bigger and remodeling.
This was great.
Thanks for watching!!
Very good explanation...
Thanks
Great video! Your breakdown and explanations of the process are a huge help. I have a bit of a noob question about the door frame-why didn’t you put in any jack studs? Are these not necessary?
Awesome video man, are you using Spax screws?
Brought to you by Primer Gray, the unofficial tool sponsor of CC
Brought to you by No. 2 Pencils.
good video thanks it will help me very much question why all your tools tap measure, ladder, circular saw etc are grey . is it to not make any pub for tool brand? have a good day
What are your thoughts on metal framing. I installed a sump pump in the basement. So hopefully now no more water. A carpenter said incase of water he would do metal for longevity and zero water damage. And also keep the drywall 1.5" off the ground.
Don’t trip over that bottom plate stud when you walk through the doorway 😀
Putting in a wall on second floor. Dividing living/dining room. Do not know whats in the roof. How do I anchor to roof? Roof is popcorn? It a 3 story house.
By the way love your videos.
Ideas is accepted from other experts
Do I go to city to get the drawing? Is this the only way?
I’m installing carpet before hanging my doors and baseboard. Pros and cons?
Great video, my understanding is that you built California corner for the wall, and there was no mention of the direction of the crowns of the stubs, I assume that they're always put upwards, is it correct? Thanks
Upward when doing a floor, on a wall pick the least noticeable side for the crown.
Good video. Doing my 1st doorway wall tomorrow. (Why is the option to save this to a playlist not available?)
Thanks for watching and good luck with the wall, you got this! I’m not sure about the playlist?.. let me know if you need and help with the diy.
Thank you so much for such a detailed tutorial video. I have learned a lot. I have one question, I am planning to put up two walls and a door in the finished side of the basement which already have laminate flooring installed. What do you recommend to secure the bottom stud to the floor?
Depends if you want to make it permanent or not. I would use a heavy grade two sided tape if I was removing at a later time. Silicone under the bottom plate would work for a more permanent install. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
Great video. You cover a lot of detail us amateurs do not know. Related question if there is already a laminate floor. If I were going to have an 80" high door. Would I eliminate the section of bottom plate below the door and have header at 80ish inches from the laminate?
Thanks again. Liked and subscribed.
The opening is usually 2” taller than the door.
If you don’t plan on reminding by the wall use 2.5 in Tapcons or even better buy a ramset for 30 dollars and 2.5 inch nails. Also make sure if there is a door anywhere u want to secure baseplate with tap on or ramset. As close to possible on both sides of the door
A younger/skinnier version of Vin Diesel. But damn great explanations on why you do certain things and different options of performing different tasks. Subbed!
Louis Litt
Thx for watching
Is this in okotoks ?
I’m struggling with how to measure door openings when framing. Do you have another video that explains that? Aside from this one. Do i measure out for the door first then studs?
This is the only video I have on this topic. Once you have your wall plates cut, layout the door location and then the stud layout. I hope that helps, let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching.
Aren't screws better for longevity anyway?
I'm a bit new to DYI. I notice that you ran your footer the width of the entire wall. Isn't there supposed to be a floor opening where the door will go? Are you planning on using a raised floor in that basement? Sorry if it's a dumb question.
Cash Komick you saw out the footer when you're ready to install the door
You have to leave it so it keeps everything plumb and also when u instal your king studs u need them to set on top of base plate. Use a oscillator or a saws all to cut out the portion u don’t need after the fact
nice. thank you! what about that section of 2x4 treated wood on floor... does it come out to accommodate the door?
Yes, cut it out.
@@ConstructionCoachthanks!
Whats the best away to cut it out? Can't use a blade against concrete
I like to use a reciprocating saw or a oscillating cut off tool. Before I had all these fancy tools I used a handsaw. Hope this helps
Can you please provide details on the type and size of the concrete anchors you used to secure the base plate to the concrete?
If it’s a load bearing wall 1/2 anchors. Non load bearing walls 3/16. One of the best anchors is drill a 3/16 hole 3” deep and use a piece of rebar tie wire and a duplex 3 1/2 nail. Common anchor use for concrete form work. Hope that helps.
nobody's gonna steal his tools
What tool set do you use? I like the gray
They are all painted that way. In my newer videos I have all my tools visible.
I have a question concerning the doorway do you cut out the bottom plate when you install the door?
Definitely, use a reciprocating saw or hand saw.
No jack studs or header?
May I ask why you didn't use Jack Studs? Were they not needed for a basement wall?
It was a non load bearing wall.
what about the king stud and the trimmer for the door it is not necessary for bedroom door ?
Not a load bearing wall so it is not required.
I see you’re using treated base plates. I am about to finish my basement in Calgary on my new home and noticed that Jayman (builder) didn’t use treated base plates on the exterior framing walls. Is it not code to do so?
I’m not sure if it is code. It is definitely a good practice. Sometimes the builder will have the poly under the frost walls to separate from the concrete. Good luck with the basement project.
Where the bottom of the wall is attached to the floor, in the door way do you cut the portion of board out or leave it. And if is to be cut out, what is the best way to remove it (cut it out)?
Great question. The plate will have to be removed at the doorway, I like to leave it until the drywall is installed. Sometimes they are a little hard on the walls putting up the board so the wood will crack around the fasteners. I always use a reciprocating saw or a hand saw will work. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!!!
Thank you!
For a basement pre-hung door, do you (A) leave one inch of the pressure-treated wood on either side to rest the door frame on, (B) does the door frame sit on the slab, or (C) do you shim up the frame 3/8"?
That depends on the flooring going down. It you have carpet on both sides, raise the frame 3/8-1/2 off the slab. If you have tile I would go right tight to the slab. If tile is on one side and carpet the other go tight to the slab. I hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else.
@@ConstructionCoach Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my question. Your videos and advice are very informative!
Thanks for watching, let me know if you need anything else.
So what about your Jack studs and header
Jose Saavedra Why? It’s part of a partition wall...
I see there is some clear plastic or visqueen attached over the insulation on the exterior wall/foundation studs. Is that to provide a vapor barrier because your insulation does not have one?
That’s right Edward. How do you do it?
@@ConstructionCoach I don't know. I'm just a beginner at this stuff and I'm trying to learn. I certainly don't want moisture seeping through the concrete foundation walls and floor of the basement and then rotting the timbers and drywall. I just want to find out the correct way to insulate the walls, and cover the studs on basement rooms where a portion of the exterior walls are partially underground and behind a concrete foundation wall.
Many thanks for your excellent video. I have subscribed to your channel.
@@eols2190 different places do it differently, I'm in Alberta canada as I'm sure this guy is from aswell and that's how we do it, I've seen some videos in the states where the insulation has the vapor barrier. I plastic is cheap and it's worth adding even with the vapor barrier insulation
Being a Canadian that married an American I was amazed to find that in NY state insulation comes with a paper back barrier. Even more surprising was their lack of use (and understanding) for plastic vapor barrier as well as other best practises exercised in Canada for energy efficiency. Thanks for your video and a BIG thanks for the background visual of how "us" Canadians use vapor barrier!
Bit late to the comments here but do you end up cutting that pressure treated plate where the door opening is? Cheers
Yes, I usually do it after drywall is installed.
@@ConstructionCoach Right on, thanks man. Love the videos and hope all is well. (thanks for the quick reply!)
Tools all look like they were 3D printed plastic toys Haha. Good video and details though. Thx!
Thanks for watching!!! New videos just released.
Can a new bathroom wall be built in 4 1/2 foot sections, where two of these sections are put together to make a 9 foot wall. The wall will obviously have sheet rock on both sides like a normal build. This will be a partition, non-load bearing wall. A normal shower will be on the backside of the wall. No tile, just fiberglass panels. Nothing fancy. I just realized I don't have any 10 foot 2x4's to create one continuous wall. Plenty of 8 foot 2 x4's I can cut down. My wife has been waiting a year to get surgery due to the virus. She is going to have it in a few weeks. I don't want to go out to buy and potentially catch the virus and bring it home to her so that her surgery is postponed again.
Wouldn't a ramset work the same instead of drilling?
feliciano721 Wouldn’t a nail gun work the same instead of a hammer? Wouldn’t an impact driver work the same instead of a screwdriver?
Yum
missing jack post on door framing !!??
Not a load bearing wall
So why are all of ur tools painted grey?
I was wondering the same thing, scrolled through the comments to see if anyone else mentioned it
Less likely to be stolen
Don't you need to cut out the bottom plate where the door is going to go?
I always do it after drywall is installed. Thanks for watching
@@ConstructionCoach thanks for replying. How do you cut it out? With a handsaw? A circular saw?
Reciprocating saw, if you don’t have one of those a handsaw will do.
@@ConstructionCoach thanks
Painted tools? Lamo.
I still don’t understand why people go back 3/4 inch because if u just mark ur 16 inch marks everything will be on center when u pull back 3/4 ur first stud is off center
I really appreciate the level of detail. However I have a few comments. In the video, you're marking the studs 16inches on center, starting at the end of the plate. Because you've subtracted 3/4 inch from 16 inches to put your mark, your first two studs are not 16 inches on center. Since your tape measure is starting on the left edge of the first stud, if you mark 16 inches from that, you will be marking the left edge of the second stud... and so on. If you were to then move the end of the tape measure to the center of that first stud, you would see that the center of the second stud is 16 inches away. If you start on the other end, where you're starting with the right edge of the first stud, you would then mark the right edge of the rest of the studs at increments of 16 inches. Several times during the video you cut a 2x4 with the saw in your right hand, and you cross your left arm over the saw to hold the board. That is a dangerous position and should be avoided when ever possible. There are other times where you're cutting a small piece of 2x4 from a larger length, holding the small piece in your left hand, leaving the longer piece floating. It might be a matter of preference, but I've never seen a carpenter cut wood holding it that way (except you). If you had framed in the header of the door before attaching the studs next to the door's king studs, you would have had better access to the area where you needed to screw the header, and you wouldn't have to wait until you stand up the wall to finish connecting the header. Most of the nails that go through the plates appear to be on the upper half of the plate (with the wall laying on the floor). The nails are supposed to be evenly spaced. When you put together the corner it doesn't appear that you made sure the ends were flush. After you connected them I could see that that blocking piece was off by about 1/4 inch.
This was confusing to me as well, until you realize that the first stud doesn't matter. What's necessary is that the centre of the second stud is 16" from the end of the wall, and they continue from there 16" on centre. Otherwise, 48" drywall sheets won't land at the middle of the studs. See this image:
i.stack.imgur.com/pslGC.png
HVAC guy put like 6" holes through the joists!!!! lol, uhhh ok
cunfusing