I ruptured a pulley last year and it took a little over a full year for me to fully trust it again. After the injury I couldn't look at other people crimping for months without feeling sick. I still can't believe I am back to nearly the same strength as before and feel confident full crimping!
Such a similar experience for me. The mental battle was far more challenging than the physical. For someone like me who loves steep, tension, + crimpy climbs, it took a long time to actually try hard. This past month I have finally gotten over that hurdle and its amazing how much i was leaving in the tank.
The mental try hard sounds like the biggest hurdle from so many people I have spoken to. I’m not quite at the stage of losing to that extent yet. Bracing for it though
The no-tex surface is called pinseal, and it's weirdly slick! The base material is recycled polycarbonate as well, strong and less messy than fibreglass etc.
Ahh cool. Maybe I'll flip a few of the holds around and have some no-tex feet happening haha. And love the sound of the non fibreglass. The reel you put up a few months ago of the holds being shaped was crazy
I've had partial tears in the past, every time I come back I am surprised just how foreign that finger/hand feels. It feels like I am putting in a lot of effort and none at all at the same time. Takes so long to actually get back to a place where I can actually feel like myself and pulling properly.
Really nice to see that ur mental is strong enough to walk away from a boulder that might be a little too much for you finger. Keep it up and you will be back full power in no time. No need to rush it. Have a great day!
ironically i set that problem, tuci, for left-leg-off climbing to avoid aggravating my knee. glad to hear you’re cleared to make a steady comeback on the 10x8
glad to have you back mate. it'd be cool if you shared your comeback plan a bit, like what are the next weeks goona look like? How much are you gonna climb, any supplementary exercises? Would be a cool video series "road back to 9a" or something. cheers!
Ah mate, the whole video was a big grin moment, and the shout out for the holds: thank you thank you thank you! Good to see you temper the froth a touch, when the music stopped, I was like: noooo! Phew! Psyched for shots next mate!
I'm recovering from an A5 rupture too. I think mine happened a few weeks after yours, it's a slow journey but I feel like I can trust it a little more week by week. Climbing on it, with mostly good holds has definitely given me more confidence(hopefully not overconfidence).
great it's on the improve for you. its for sure a weird balance of trusting it, listening to the pain, pushing it a little, but not going too hard. stay the course. we'll be back at it before we know
It’s not a bad time to be coming back. Just about to hit summer, so training will be the name of the game and should be back at full crack in time for the conditions
Nice video. Stay the course of a gradual build up and you'll be back to full strength in (relatively speaking) no time. You already know this but, if you can, resist the urge to test the limit of what the finger can do. If you want you could easily train yourself to be able to do V10+ boulders by not weighting the injured finger but that's hardly the point. You nailed it when you said it is better to take an extra couple of weeks than rush it. Glad to have you back.
Have you tried single finger sling lifts (for a minute), I injured my finger and realized I could pull 1kg on the injured finger and 8kg on the other side. It worked really well for me and I was back after 1 month (mine wasn't as bad as yours). Can recommend for rehabbing pulleys
@ oh ok! Thanks for the info. Just wanted to keep in mind how long I should rest when I get a serious finger injury like yours. I started climbing 3 years ago at age 30 and have been training pretty consistently and know that injury at my age is not an if but more of a when.
Hey Tom, ive also had the dreaded pop in a ring finger a2, was it a medical decision to rest the finger for 3 months? I did my rehab with a climbing physio and we did 2 weeks of splinted rest and then got straight back into very light finger exercises and built back up from there.
I was doing rehab on it in that time. Definitely keeping it active to help it recover strong. Just no climbing. And no strength work or anything. Just rehab on the right hand
Thank you for confirming climbing is indeed good. 😁 And welcome back!
Just in case anyone was wondering 😀😉
I ruptured a pulley last year and it took a little over a full year for me to fully trust it again. After the injury I couldn't look at other people crimping for months without feeling sick.
I still can't believe I am back to nearly the same strength as before and feel confident full crimping!
Such a similar experience for me. The mental battle was far more challenging than the physical. For someone like me who loves steep, tension, + crimpy climbs, it took a long time to actually try hard. This past month I have finally gotten over that hurdle and its amazing how much i was leaving in the tank.
The mental try hard sounds like the biggest hurdle from so many people I have spoken to. I’m not quite at the stage of losing to that extent yet. Bracing for it though
i sure hope you film the reset! i would love to see that! ill have to send you some 1 off holds Tom!
100% will
The no-tex surface is called pinseal, and it's weirdly slick! The base material is recycled polycarbonate as well, strong and less messy than fibreglass etc.
Ahh cool. Maybe I'll flip a few of the holds around and have some no-tex feet happening haha. And love the sound of the non fibreglass. The reel you put up a few months ago of the holds being shaped was crazy
Happy to see you're back mate!
It's pretty crazy that 2:00 is a V0
Haha yes there can be some inconsistencies in grading on the boards
Sick to see you back!
forthin to be back
I've had partial tears in the past, every time I come back I am surprised just how foreign that finger/hand feels. It feels like I am putting in a lot of effort and none at all at the same time. Takes so long to actually get back to a place where I can actually feel like myself and pulling properly.
Yeah I’m interested to see how it all plays out. This is my first proper injury in 15yrs plus. So pretty unfamiliar with the path
Really nice to see that ur mental is strong enough to walk away from a boulder that might be a little too much for you finger. Keep it up and you will be back full power in no time. No need to rush it. Have a great day!
yeah keen to make the recovery process as possible. no need to push now.
ironically i set that problem, tuci, for left-leg-off climbing to avoid aggravating my knee. glad to hear you’re cleared to make a steady comeback on the 10x8
Haha sweet. Was I correct in my beta guess? Keen to dig back into the board. Missed it a ton
yupp that was my intent there
Coming back from injury myself (perforated supraspinatus), I look forward to seeing your process! Gl bro
Ahh doesn’t sound fun. Hope it’s doing well. We’ll be back into it before we know it
glad to have you back mate. it'd be cool if you shared your comeback plan a bit, like what are the next weeks goona look like? How much are you gonna climb, any supplementary exercises?
Would be a cool video series "road back to 9a" or something. cheers!
Sounds great. Definitely keen for something like that. lots of psyche for next years goals
Great to see you back at it mate 🤠
Cheers mate. Feeling good to be back.
My GOAT has returned to bestow us with more content. Godspeed.
Haha back to the old tricks. Vids and blocs 😀
Ah mate, the whole video was a big grin moment, and the shout out for the holds: thank you thank you thank you! Good to see you temper the froth a touch, when the music stopped, I was like: noooo! Phew! Psyched for shots next mate!
So psyched to have them go into the next reset. Perfect addition to the wall :)
Welcome back man, so happy to see you back on the wall!
I’m frothin to be back. Hadn’t planned on a break that long on the video front. Just kinda happened. Plenty of video topics I’m ready to put out 😀
I'm recovering from an A5 rupture too. I think mine happened a few weeks after yours, it's a slow journey but I feel like I can trust it a little more week by week.
Climbing on it, with mostly good holds has definitely given me more confidence(hopefully not overconfidence).
great it's on the improve for you. its for sure a weird balance of trusting it, listening to the pain, pushing it a little, but not going too hard. stay the course. we'll be back at it before we know
You'll be back in no time!
It’s not a bad time to be coming back. Just about to hit summer, so training will be the name of the game and should be back at full crack in time for the conditions
Take your time.
And welcome back !.
psyched to be back. climbing is fun :)
So good to see you climbing again! First session back and you're already at my max grade haha
Feels nice being back 😀
Nice video. Stay the course of a gradual build up and you'll be back to full strength in (relatively speaking) no time. You already know this but, if you can, resist the urge to test the limit of what the finger can do. If you want you could easily train yourself to be able to do V10+ boulders by not weighting the injured finger but that's hardly the point. You nailed it when you said it is better to take an extra couple of weeks than rush it. Glad to have you back.
yep, very keen to stay the course, take no short cuts and get back to 100%
Ayyy I can climb harder than an Olympian! 😎 Welcome back legend. Looking forward to the recovery videos!
fun to be back at it :). can't wait to get back into the flow of sharing videos
Genuinely happy for you
hah athanks :)
I had my first pulley tweak not long ago it’s scary 😬 no climbing, is heartbreaking
haha yeah it's not the best feeling in climbing. both when they happen and learning to trust it on the recovery journey
Have you tried single finger sling lifts (for a minute), I injured my finger and realized I could pull 1kg on the injured finger and 8kg on the other side. It worked really well for me and I was back after 1 month (mine wasn't as bad as yours). Can recommend for rehabbing pulleys
It’s something I have used in the past, but not this time round. They were great
The mental healing is definitely the biggest challenge.
yeah it's a bit less of a linear journey. definitely potential for ups and downs
Lets Go!!! Stoked your back on the board. We need our small crop king 💪 I hope you get a chance to check out and confirm some more of my sets at 45!
super keen to get back into all the blocs ive been missing out on. good opportunity to do some setting in the lower grades too.
Hi Tom, just curious, was it a complete rupture or partial? And thanks for sharing your recovery process!
Not 100% sure. But there was a heap of bowstringing, pain and took quite a while before loading beyond a kg was possible
@ oh ok! Thanks for the info. Just wanted to keep in mind how long I should rest when I get a serious finger injury like yours. I started climbing 3 years ago at age 30 and have been training pretty consistently and know that injury at my age is not an if but more of a when.
Hey Tom, ive also had the dreaded pop in a ring finger a2, was it a medical decision to rest the finger for 3 months? I did my rehab with a climbing physio and we did 2 weeks of splinted rest and then got straight back into very light finger exercises and built back up from there.
I was doing rehab on it in that time. Definitely keeping it active to help it recover strong. Just no climbing. And no strength work or anything. Just rehab on the right hand
how many times a week do you climb from now?
twice a week
pretty interesting to see how an elite climber climbs V0s and V1s lol
fun to be found at every grade :)
Cool that you keep it slow...
So far. Hoping to keep it that way. Plenty to keep me busy as I build back up without needlessly pushing the finger