Great job! Covered all the high points in a timely manner . Great refresher for me as it's been a few years and mine is due. My jiffy is a lot older but it's still the same. Thanks again
Good video but just minor note if not already mentioned. What you referred to as a carburetor drain is actually the primer air tube. Pressing the primer works the diaphragm like a pump. I was having a similar problem with mine. The engine would die in high speed, like it ran out of gas. I could keep it working if I could prime it regularly while operating it but that almost required a third arm. Cleaned the carb and installed a complete new kit with new needle valve and including those little aluminum caps that you see next to the needle valve. There are fuel ports under those. Still no improvement. Eventually, I discovered there is a screen inside the fuel inlet port. Why they don't put fuel filters on these things is beyond me. It's hard to see the screen but shining a flashlight down the carb throat and looking into the inlet port, I could see the x-hatches of the screen. I could not figure out how to remove that inlet port and replace the screen. My guess is that it is pressed in. I took a spray can of carb cleaner with a straw and sprayed the heck out of that inlet port until I could see it was clean as best I could. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to spray backwards through it, which is what I would have preferred but in the end, it solved my problem.
Nice job someone already touched on the primer line only other thing I noticed is behind the low and high adjustment screws the are o rings you don't want to lose or soak in carb cleaner
@@buschfishinI'm a little concerned that after you took it out of the cleaner the needle for the float was still in the base, if that's not clean it will never meter correctly.
Hi i have looked at your video and done all you said. Unfortunatly the seal in the intake broke...would you know where i can find a replacement part for this or whati is it called...I searched every where and can not find that piece......
@@buschfishin i have the gasket that goes between the carburator and the motor no issue....it's the one between the carburator and the intake i can't find.....You know the part that let the air in the carburator....i am wondering if it's really necessary since it's only air that goes in there.....
@@buschfishin i took a picture but can't post here......at 3:29 in your video, that's the piece i am talking about, that's the seal that goes with it that i have broken and searched everywhere to get the replacement and are unable too.
i see what you are talking about now, i’ve done some searching and i can’t find anything, the whole purpose of thst is just to make sure that it sucks air from above incase it were to suck any water but it’s not a critical component by any means, you can run this without that with no problems but if you really want it i think your best bet would be to order an entire carb off amazon they’re pretty cheap and it would have one, hope this helps!
Your description was great, but off. The carburetor works not by float, but by the vacuum fluctuations causing the diaphragm to flutter, which actuates the fuel delivery Needle. It's an odd one. Great job 👍
Just bustin your balls lol, good video. I was having issues and i figured i would clean the carb. Noticed my diaphram was crackes so im guess that was my issue.
My auger has torx my buddy has the slotted screws flat head as other people call them anyways my auger won’t idle unless I continue to prime it any suggestions I’ve just replaced the needle valve and diaphragm
if you’ve gone through the carb and made sure every oriface is clean, it could be a problem getting fuel to the carb, i would pull the fuel line off the carb and make sure fuel is free flowing, im not too sure if these have an idle screw but if you can find one turn it up and see what happens, if neither of those work i believe the left fuel air mixture screw is for the idle circuit so you could turn that in (clockwise) 1/4 turn at a time and see if that richens it up enough to get it to idle.. does it run good wide open?
You need an ultrasonic cleaner.....they are the SHIT.....Thanx for the vid...I have a mod 30 and it was running like shit. Mostly because some lazy fool didnt store it right....so I get to fix my mistakes.
@@buschfishin I got a six liter for around 120$.....I use water in it and then put the carb or whatever part you are cleaning in a glass jar filled with your favorite cleaner...It works super well and you dont have to use that much carb cleaner...just dump the water out and wait for the next victim....
Sorry to say you did not fully dissemble needle and seat should have been removed and replaced as well as diaphragm. I have been repairing carbs for over 50 years.
Best teardown video I've seen yet! Thanks for the settings on both screws. Had trouble figuring it out.
thank you so much! glad i could help
Great job! Covered all the high points in a timely manner . Great refresher for me as it's been a few years and mine is due. My jiffy is a lot older but it's still the same. Thanks again
thanks man appreciate it!
Great Video ! I did everything as described, and my auger runs great. Mine is just likes the one you were working on. THANKS
Glad it helped and that you got it fixed!
Hey Bush great video super detailed. My brother and I just watched. Up here in Alaska trying to get a Jiffy 3hp started. Thanks!
thank you!! good luck and hope this helped!
Good video but just minor note if not already mentioned. What you referred to as a carburetor drain is actually the primer air tube. Pressing the primer works the diaphragm like a pump. I was having a similar problem with mine. The engine would die in high speed, like it ran out of gas. I could keep it working if I could prime it regularly while operating it but that almost required a third arm. Cleaned the carb and installed a complete new kit with new needle valve and including those little aluminum caps that you see next to the needle valve. There are fuel ports under those. Still no improvement. Eventually, I discovered there is a screen inside the fuel inlet port. Why they don't put fuel filters on these things is beyond me. It's hard to see the screen but shining a flashlight down the carb throat and looking into the inlet port, I could see the x-hatches of the screen. I could not figure out how to remove that inlet port and replace the screen. My guess is that it is pressed in. I took a spray can of carb cleaner with a straw and sprayed the heck out of that inlet port until I could see it was clean as best I could. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to spray backwards through it, which is what I would have preferred but in the end, it solved my problem.
Nice job someone already touched on the primer line only other thing I noticed is behind the low and high adjustment screws the are o rings you don't want to lose or soak in carb cleaner
yes thank you for the input, the more knowledge here the better it is for people trying to fix their own. i appreciate the comment.
Your "fuel out" line is your primer. Air pressure pushes on the diaphragm and opens the needle to prime the carb.
yes thank you, i don’t know why i said that or why there would ever be a fuel out line on a carburetor 😂
@@buschfishinI'm a little concerned that after you took it out of the cleaner the needle for the float was still in the base, if that's not clean it will never meter correctly.
Small hose is the primer hose. very informative.
yes i realized that mistake while editing but hopefully others see this comment, thank you!
Very good video man, bravo!
thank you man appreciate it!
Nice job though. Very nicely done!
Hi
i have looked at your video and done all you said. Unfortunatly the seal in the intake broke...would you know where i can find a replacement part for this or whati is it called...I searched every where and can not find that piece......
look up jiffy carb gasket or jiffy 3hp carb gasket whatever model you have i just found one for $1.39
@@buschfishin i have the gasket that goes between the carburator and the motor no issue....it's the one between the carburator and the intake i can't find.....You know the part that let the air in the carburator....i am wondering if it's really necessary since it's only air that goes in there.....
i am a little confused, is it on the air adjustment screw? where the carb bolts onto the motor is technically the intake
@@buschfishin i took a picture but can't post here......at 3:29 in your video, that's the piece i am talking about, that's the seal that goes with it that i have broken and searched everywhere to get the replacement and are unable too.
i see what you are talking about now, i’ve done some searching and i can’t find anything, the whole purpose of thst is just to make sure that it sucks air from above incase it were to suck any water but it’s not a critical component by any means, you can run this without that with no problems but if you really want it i think your best bet would be to order an entire carb off amazon they’re pretty cheap and it would have one, hope this helps!
Thanks, very helpful
Your description was great, but off. The carburetor works not by float, but by the vacuum fluctuations causing the diaphragm to flutter, which actuates the fuel delivery Needle. It's an odd one. Great job 👍
They are called Torx bits...not star. Lol...... but great video nonetheless.
yes i realized that after the fact.. don’t know why star bit is what came to mind 😂
Star bits you say eh?
it has been made very clear that i said star and not torx 😂😂
Just bustin your balls lol, good video. I was having issues and i figured i would clean the carb. Noticed my diaphram was crackes so im guess that was my issue.
Phillips screw driver not star bit
i believe on this one they were torx but maybe different models have phillips? thanks for the comment!
@@buschfishin why torx they strip easier than any other type I have a 70’s model 30 now I have to check to see what I have lol
My auger has torx my buddy has the slotted screws flat head as other people call them anyways my auger won’t idle unless I continue to prime it any suggestions I’ve just replaced the needle valve and diaphragm
if you’ve gone through the carb and made sure every oriface is clean, it could be a problem getting fuel to the carb, i would pull the fuel line off the carb and make sure fuel is free flowing, im not too sure if these have an idle screw but if you can find one turn it up and see what happens, if neither of those work i believe the left fuel air mixture screw is for the idle circuit so you could turn that in (clockwise) 1/4 turn at a time and see if that richens it up enough to get it to idle.. does it run good wide open?
@@buschfishin have to pump the primer a few times to keep it going but runs full throttle I was told to adjust it under load
You need an ultrasonic cleaner.....they are the SHIT.....Thanx for the vid...I have a mod 30 and it was running like shit. Mostly because some lazy fool didnt store it right....so I get to fix my mistakes.
with the amount of carbs i clean i really should! glad i could help
@@buschfishin I got a six liter for around 120$.....I use water in it and then put the carb or whatever part you are cleaning in a glass jar filled with your favorite cleaner...It works super well and you dont have to use that much carb cleaner...just dump the water out and wait for the next victim....
Sorry to say you did not fully dissemble needle and seat should have been removed and replaced as well as diaphragm. I have been repairing carbs for over 50 years.