Wow wow wow! That is exactly what Justine advised me to do. The only thing is, I don't have a clue as to how to do it on the actual TX until now that I have watched your video. Good show mate thanks lots.
helpful video i am using your method with FSi6 to control a rudder-less boat - ( 2 thrusters which operate like tank steer ) thankyou. im also going to try elevon method and see how that gets on . I'm not a serious RC hobbyist but i've found the fsi6 to be a great value little transmitter for all my amateur projects despite its confusing button presses in the setup menus. the little battery voltage telemetry modules (FS-CVT01) which you can get for it are great too - well worth investing a few pounds if its a model that you really can't have a battery cut out situation, such as plane or boat. they also do temperature and RPM modules possibly others. good luck with tank steering everyone!
timely advice! I went searching through BG the other day, knowing next-to-nothing, looking for a good starter radio + receiver pair, sorted by price and ordered the least expensive unit with LCD and mixing capabilities, it was the FS-i6!
Thanks for making this video! I'm looking at options for controlling a vintage Kyosho tracked vehicle (a Heavy Metal) and this gave some really useful info.
Thank you for sharing this video, we are using the FS-i6 and this is very helpful. Here is something that my kids and I would find very useful as well, and that is how to program the radio to slow down how fast the bot turns left and right. We are finding that we are turning too quickly and would love to find a sweet spot that affords us more nuanced control.
Thank you very much. The funny part is that I have these same devices but I have been using an arduino to convert the PWM signals to control a motor controller in software. And I have 2 escs to make it way easier.
Interesting. I set the mixes like yours except the -100 on channel 1 and +100 on channel 2. it made my controls at 45 degrees to go forward. I reverted back to no mix, all works fine. My issue is needing a little more dead space in the middle in both axis and the left and right to be less sensitive. It steers side to side too quickly. Mine is based on wheelchair motor and a sabertooth driver.
Yes, you could do it all electronically... The ol' FlySky FS-wotsit Tx is a sound piece of kit. But I favour a crew of trained hamsters. 4 little furry guys, clambering about inside the bot, shouting orders, pulling this, turning that, loading the other; leaning out through the hatch to peer at the oncoming enemy through binoculars... I was listening to 'Tank' by The Stranglers yesterday, working out J.J.B's bass part. And last night I had the strangest dream. Can you tell?
Thanks a lot mate. Can you do the same demo on the fx i6S. Will be a great help for an old bugger trying to do young guys things. I get so confused trying to on a touch screen. All the best for 2021.
You're providing a great service here, my friend! Another informative video... Keep them coming! I have a Fs T6 and I'm fairly confident the info is interchangeable (the setting screens are identical as far as I'm aware). Either way, it's been hard for me to find this information so thanks again!
Wonderful youtube. I tried it and got it messed up by labeling motors and wires incorrectly. Went back to basics (motor 1 is motor 1 is motor A and is on left facing forward (port side)). Now it all works like a champ.
Çok teşekkürler.. bu videoyu türkçe kaynaklarda bulamadım. tek kanal ile iki motoru ters yönde nasıl hareket ettireceğimi videonuz sayesinde buldum. elimdeki kumanda videodaki nin alt modeli ekransız olanı. ama bilgisayar arayüz programı var. oradan yapacağım tüm ayarlamaları..
Hi just completed my dozer d5 Bruder, I’ve got the FS-i6 . I’ve done everything what you should but can’t get the sticks to respond left and right. Is there anything else I can do. Thanks
For the beginner like myself, there is a couple of other things I'd like to know how to set up on a controller like this. 1. If I want, let's say a motor, to be controllable by an aux switch (bad example is bad but it's the best easy way I can think of it) How would one set the aux channel up? By which I mean; by default, a 2 setting switch goes from -100% to 100% which on a motor would be full reverse and full forward. But I don't want it to do that, I want it to be full stop to full forward. The actual use I want this for is for the eletromagnetic suspention idea, since wiring -100% would just swap polarity. Pretty sure I'd still need to link something like an ESC or some kind of controller up to it to be able to control it from the transmitter. 2. Can an aux switch on this transmitter be used as a reverse switch? My first bot might be a flipper, but I'm going to want to build an invertable spinner eventually. Would I have to buy a new transmitter, or can this one pull of an "I'm upside down!" switch. (Friendly reminder to set one up for AnneRUOK, if you've not.)
For num 1) there's two ways to do that, the easiest way is to use an ESC that's not bi-directional (like most brushless escs) because for a single direction ESC -100% is a full stop The second way would be a mix which forces the low end to 0%, I've done something like this before with channel 4 but would need to dig into my old mix settings to give a guide on how to do it For 2) Not on the stock firmware, I have heard that there is a firmware for these transmitters out there that has better mixing and can be used to do a reverse switch, but I haven't tested it yet. I'll look into that for a future video (I'm moving Annie_R_U_OK over to a new transmitter and will be working on an invert switch on that, thanks for the reminder though)
Thanks for this. Very helpful. Quick few questions. If I wanted to add a weapon, would it be a case of plugging the ESC into channel 3 or 4 and then using the other thumbstick to control it? Also, if I am more comfortable driving using the default two thumbsticks, how would I set up a weapon? Could I use anything else on the transmitter for this?
yes, weapons normally just get plugged straight into the 3rd or 4th channel with no mixing I'm not sure about driving with two thumbsticks, in theory you should be able to do this mix across the thumbsticks as long as you pay attention to the channels used and plug your drives in correctly It will make weapon control more difficult on these controllers as the switches on them are your only other option for weapon control and they dont have a lot of options for use and cant be mixed with the sticks
I'm using the same radio, but an fs-ia10b receiver. I've done the mix as you've shown, but only one of my motors are working. Should I remove the positive pin from that motor to get it going?
If I were to power my tank with continuous rotation servos rather than motors, could I then run it with only a reciever and no speed controller? Thank you!
Thank you so much! I’ve got a question, how do I by chance make the motor go backwards and forwards on channel 1. I’ve been stumped on figuring it out especially because I’m using a brushed motor
Most Merkins like Mode 2; much of the rest of the world likes Mode 1. Definitely not worth going to war over. Just do whatever makes you happy. I'm English, which makes me not only un-Merkin, but also bad and nasty and ugly and evil and wrong; Brits drive cars on the left. It's just an old tradition. No biggie. We should probably not bother going to war over that, either. Again, just do whatever makes you happy. Nobody's judging. Nobody cares. And as for 'dressing' on the left or on the right (hem, hem)... Well, I'm a woman, so I don't do either. I've got a bra that does its best to lift and separate, if that's any help...
@@ThyrusEvo- Oh yes. I've got text for all occasions. But lighthearted remarks need a smiley face or they can so easily be taken as something entirely different. No matter what type of car, bus, truck, van or lorry you drive, and whichever side of the road you drive on, and in whichever country you live - yes, even if it's the 'United States of 'We Drive On The Right Out Of Spite For Our Embarrassing Colonial Origins' America - the accelerator pedal is on the right, under your right foot. In RC terms, that's Mode 1. Throttle on the right. Right foot. It's on the right-hand side. And the throttle on a motorbike is in your right hand. Your right, not your left. It's on the right. As with a Mode 1 transmitter. Throttle on the right. Accelerator on the right. In a car you sit on the right and drive on the left - unless you're weird - but you always use your right foot on the throttle. For cars with a manual transmission and pedals (I think U.S. peeps call them 'stick-shift'), the clutch is on the left; the brake is in the middle. What's on the right? The 'gas' is on the right. Yup. Even if you drive an automatic, the brake's on the left and the throttle is on the right. Hey, don't blame me. That's just the way it goes. So having the throttle on the right (Mode 1) on an RC transmitter isn't THAT weird. In fact, it makes quite a bit more sense than having it on the left, especially if you're driving a ground-based vehicle-type thingy with wheels. So... er... Whatever. Oh dear, I forgot the smiley face.
There's a huge difference between making a humorous comment about Australia being upside-down, and a comment drawing attention to an Australian who's 'backward' and doesn't think like you do. A comment about Australia is aimed at a country. It's geographical. The Antipodes. Yep. Upside-down. On the bottom of the globe. Inverted. Don't fall off. Ha ha. That's funny. But a comment about the way a guy thinks is an attack on him. On his thought processes. It's not a subtle distinction. It's like left- or right-handedness: there's nothing amusing about being either, and certainly no need to draw attention to it. But hey, if the transmitter controls are set up backwards, maybe Ben's a bit backward, too. You know, a bit simple. Retarded. Kinda dumb, like all foreigners. Oh, didn't you mean that? Too late. It's not what you say, Mr Trump, it's the way that people hear it that counts. I chose to interpret your Comment as: "We, the right-thinking Mode 2 people of the world who have our throttle stick on the left, don't take kindly to your messed-up ways, so don't go trying to pass off any weird foreign stuff as normal. As a faithful Mode 2 user, it's my duty to ridicule your Mode 1 beliefs and to seek the approval of my peers via TH-cam. Now let's all laugh at Ben for not being like us." In a school playground he'd be pelted with mud or dog poo till he moved his throttle to the left stick. In Texas the townsfolk would form a posse to ride him out of town. On TH-cam, viewers would join in by liking your Comment hundreds of times to show how right they thought you were to highlight Ben's depraved Mode 1 behaviour. Did I get hold of the wrong end of the stick? Never mind. At least it was on the correct side.
Thanks for going slowly enough that we beginners can follow both what you said and what buttons you were pushing to get that done! I'm curious about your ESC. In order to most efficiently drive 2 tank tread motors, am I correct that I need to use to separate brushed ESCs? If you would suggest a single ESC with JST power leads for 2 motors instead, what should I look for (what is this called)? Your video greatly simplified what for me, was a very confusing programming task. Cheers! - Jim
Glad it helped! I tend to use DFrobot Mirco Metal Gear motors that have an ESC on the back of the, or custom ESCs However some of the people I know use "5a dual brushed esc" from places like eBay and Aliexpress, thats a good search term to use and gives results like this: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000202935819.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.67927190BjE3CZ&algo_pvid=1c005a99-90f5-4f9d-88a8-de1a235512fe&algo_expid=1c005a99-90f5-4f9d-88a8-de1a235512fe-0&btsid=0bb0623a16225131825212880e3506&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ As I havent personally used them, I cant vouch for the effectiveness, but they should at least be on the right track
Thx for the video, it helped a lot. But I have a little problem. I'm running a Tank, two Quickrun ESCs go into the receiver (channels 1+2). It's working as intended, but one ESC cuts off after a few seconds and only one track is moved. After moving the stick to the zero podition it starts running again for a few seconds. I changed the ESC as well as the position they have on the receiver and also the motors. No effect. Maybe the radio that's faulty?
I have no experience with Quickrun ESC and you've given no information on motors or battery voltage A quick google says they are a brushless ESC I cannot give you guided help here as theres far too many unknowns and I have no experience with your setup. But it sounds like an ESC issue not a receiver issue, if it was a receiver issue either it would never come good again until you power cycle the tank (the receiver has an electrical fault) or it would come good on its own randomly (the receiver has a signal issue) The fact you need to push the stick to the 0 position sounds like the ESC is shutting down and is needing to see a 0 signal to start up again Its possible that they are overvaulting or seeing a massive negative spike when you suddenly reverse drive and are shutting down But take all of that with a huge grain of salt as its mostly a guess based on how esc's work in general as I have no experience with Quickrun ESCs
@@TeamPanicRobotics No problem, thank you for responding. I also think it's the ESC that's causing this, I will order a new one and change it. If the problem remains I'll have one spare. And yes, they are brushless ESCs with 540 Crawler Motors attached to it. Have a nice day mate.
brilliant video - exactly the kind of thing that's needed for someone starting up! got any advice of how to correct for bots drifting to the side slightly - or if one of the wheels seems to turn at the same time (if I move the stick very gently then on turns while the other is still)
transmitters are sold with different "modes" i just have the mode where the self centering stick is on the other side Usually it just means that stick has an extra spring, and in some cases you can open the transmitter up and change which stick self centers
Great video! Thanks for the tips. What happens when you push the stick to the corners - like upper left or lower right? Does it provide variable power to each motor, like a skid steer? I am wondering if I could use this to power only the left motor, or only the right motor, independently for more gradual turning.
Yep! this mixing provides variable power to each motor at every stick position I'm pretty sure you can get the stick into a spot where its only giving power to one wheel
Hi, im having a problem with the transmitter. It can only go one way, if i want the motors to not rotate i have to hold the stick in the cornor. Basically it Shouldn’t be rotating if the stick is in the middel, but mine does. I Hope you can help me with this
I dont use any mixing on my weapons. With the sticks set up as shown, the "throttle" stick is channel 3, I just plug my weapon ESC into that and use the throttle stick as is to control weapon speed
where is that power switch wired between? I have a large (new to me) 24v robot. Original owner/ builder had a switch like that to power it down (two wire + & - it appears with 3 pin female sockets) very low gauge wire. The fella I bought this from removed it. (I'm third owner) Im trying to figure out where to reinsert it and am at a loss. My ESC(s) are 24v Victor 883. My remote is a 6 channel simple one hand remote....but does differential twin motor controlling (ok.. so its not a smmmalll robot) . Any advise?
I’m doing something similar to your on a hoverboard. I downloaded a firmware the right stick only work moving left and right to go forward with backwards ( both wheels move simultaneously) . Not sure which mode I should go into? Without overthinking it. And I’m still not sure what mix does exactly in my case … just in case you ask I have it connected to the ch1/ppm
@@TeamPanicRobotics i tested your thing out it doesn’t work on my hoverboard wheels. I thought it would work but it doesnt. It’s because it both plug into a circuit board. Rather independent the firmware i uploaded to it on GitHub is only programmed to run backwards and forwards simultaneously
Thanks a lot for this video! I am a beginner with Skyfly and you show and teach very clear the Skyfly modes. Just one question. If I did everything you taught us but by going forward the wheels start (or tend) to go to one side, how would you solve this issue? Again, thank you for your big help (at least for me).
this could be to do with the trim for your left/right channel. there is a little rocker switch under the stick, push it in the opposite direction to the way the robot tends to move It could also be your ESC or your motors, if your motors dont have the same gear boxes one will always go faster then the other, causing the robot to turn
Nice video, witch ESC do you use?, I try with this ESC (Hobbywing Eagle 20A ESC For Brushed Motor For RC Airplane Plane 370 380 390 280 270) but i can't reverse the motors.
The ESC's I use depend on the robot and the motors I am trying to drive. But when buying ESC's I make sure they are Bi-Directional or have the option to make them Bi-Directional in software
I need help! I have a Flysky I6X transmitter to control my tracked inspection bot. But when I first switch the transmitter on, it beeps and gives me this message: "!!WARNING!! Place all switches in their up position and lower the throttle" Sometimes I just bump my left toggle switch, channel 3, and it stops the warning and gives me full control. But all too often, it doesn't matter how many switches and toggles I move around, it just keeps beeping and will not give me control. What is it doing and how do I get it to stop? I have a simple tank chassis with a light and camera gimble on it. It's not like I need a safety switch to start with. Can you help me?
Hi I'm not sure its possible to turn that feature off, and I do get that it can be a pain In the past I've had switches break (usually after transporting the transmitter) and they have been stuck in the wrong state, so the transmitter gets stuck giving that error If lowering the throttle and toggling the switches back to their default (all up) is not fixing it, I'd suspect you also have a broken switch Which gives you two options, replace it, or disconnect it and either leave the leads disconnected or connected together (which ever one lets the controller start up)
@@TeamPanicRobotics Thank you for your response, but it seems to have straightened itself out. It drove me to my wits end and sent me seeking help and then just like that, it's working normal again. You suppose it was ashamed that I had to complain about it?😄
It works well! Thank you. But how to setup the reverse/backward? When it is on reverse/bakward the steering is reverse too. Turn left becoming turn right and vice versa. Any idea on how to fix this?
I dont, its only very recently that learned this was the case. I have been using this mixing set up for a few years now and it never came up, I just dont turn while driving backwards. It might be possible to fix this issue, but it will be a much more complicated mixing algorithm that I dont think the Fs-i6 can handle
@@TeamPanicRobotics Ahh that does make sense, as this kind of steering is capable to do tight turning actually we dont really need to turn while reverse. Straight reverse and neutral turn is enough. Okay, thank you for the share!
Hey is there a way to set diff performance modes using the aux switches like mode 1 will enable 50% motor power in all directions and mode 2 will enable 100% motor power in all directions mainly to have more precision on the stick while doing tighter movements
As far as I know, not for this controller with stock firmware, its fairly basic I've heard rumour of more advanced firmware out there but havent ever used it myself so cant comment
Its the same mixing for 2wd and 4wd Just with 4wd you plug two ESCs into each channel on the receiver. So the ESCs that control the left motors get plugged into the same port on the reciver and the two ESCs that control the right motors are plugged into the other
I am sooo confused. I've bought 2x motor controllers where the port markings on the controllers were not corresponding with the manual. I think I got that sorted. Enable wire was the problem as there was no port marked EN. I then got no joy whilst output mode on my rc was in PWM mode, just tried PPM and the bloody wheel went full speed. Now I'm at my wits end. Do you think you can assist me here.
Thanks. Mine worked for few minutes. An then now all I have the wheels run opposite in all positions. I went to reverse an changed one at a time an made no difference in the rotation
Hey Ben Been watching your video on Mixing Fly Sky channels for robot tank steering. I have a FS i6X TX and matching 6 channel RX, and am trying to use them for differential steering a land vehicle, using two ex hoverboard motors (BLDC 350 Watt at 12 volts) and ZS-X11H control boards. I can't get a full range of duty cycle out of the Tx/Rx combo, it only outputs between 5% and 12% duty cycle PWM to the throttle inputs, not enough to operate the motors. Any suggestions as to how to get 0% to 100% duty cycle out of the FlySky Tx/Rx please? Ken
Hi Ken The Rx does not output full duty cycle PWM, it outputs servo signals, these are a PWM signal used to transmit data. A servo signal is a short pulse, 1ms - 2ms in a 20ms frame. To convert a servo signal from your RX to full duty cycle PWM to drive a motor you need an ESC. For old hoverboard motors you need big escs, most people will use a VESC or similar, usually rated for 50A or higher
@@TeamPanicRobotics Many thanks Ben for your prompt response. I have seen references to that previously, but not a clear explanation as you have provided. The vehicle is only small, (a full scale model of Dr Who's robot dog K9) so the 350 Watt motors will not have to work very hard. I will have a look at inserting an Arduino between the FSky Rx and the motor control boards, and try to map the narrow range of PWM from the Rx out to a wider range, to get a more useful speed range out of the FSky/Arduino/ motor control board combo. Thanks again Regards Ken
Hi, i am using flysky 6x for my tank robot. But not able to do settings. Im set up mode 2 where right stick has channel 1 & 2, Im using scorpion mini dual controller. Can you Please advise me complete settings.
Unfortunately, they're not generally compatible at all; there are many systems. Some of the more expensive transmitters have a "multiprotocol module" system which allows them to drive different types of receivers (not all at once, selectable from the menu). The protocol we usually use with the FS-i6 is called "AFHDS2A", which is not to be confused with older FS protocols.
I just have a question about creating my own 3d printed tank, I am using the FS-I6x which has a 6 channel receiver, I am trying to run this set up in a tank mode so the left stick controls the left track and the right controls the right back and fourth too. I was wondering if you guys could possibly do a tutorial on how to set this up because I have been having so much trouble with trying this, thanks.
Sorry missed this one, No mixing is needed to do 2 stick tank steering. One of the forward/back sticks will be a channel, the other forward/back stick will be a different channel (look at your controllers manual to work out which is which)(usually 1 and 3) Simply plug the motor on the left into a bi directional ESC, plug the ESC into power and into the channel that corresponds to the left stick, same for the right motor, but plug it into the channel for the right stick
@@TeamPanicRobotics hey, I understand what you are saying but I tried this and -100 percent on both sides on the sticks equals 0 for the motor so I have to hold the sticks all the way down to stop the motor from moving, I also have no reverse because instead of -100 being reverse, it’s 0 for the motor, I tried dub trims and trims but non of this work, I have bought the spectrum dx6e to try it on that and it’s no better. Not sure if maybe you can help with this?
hey I have been trying to make thr control in dual stick. Is it even possible? Like, left goes forward backward and Right goes left-right. Also I want to use both stick togather like an RC car.
it should be, Stick directions are given numbers, that how the mixing works, it mixes 1 with 2 All you need to do is use the "modes" in the menu, and find one where 1 is the forward-backward on the left stick and 2 is left-right on the right stick
Thats not correct, these transmitters run the same firmware regardless of how the sticks are set up (they sell this same controller with the unsprung stick both left and right and the provided firmware on both options is exactly the same), so in firmware there are the options to treat both sticks exactly the same, if you haven't found the throttle curve for the right stick then it might be berried in a menu or you might need to change some other setting first (like maybe the stick mode) I use stick mode 3 which puts ch 1 as the left/right on the right stick and ch 2 as up/down on the right stick. If I swapped it to stick mode 1 it would put ch 1 as the left/right on the left stick and keeps ch 2 as up/down on the right stick Unfortunately, I'm really not an expert at these controllers, I have exactly one use case for them (setting them up as shown in this video), so I know the settings and setups to get them to do exactly that. But for other use cases, I'm a little out of my depth
I do all these but when I connect and the stick is in the center position it makes the motors go at 50%. Am I doing something wrong or is it the type of esc im using?
yes, the esc you are using is a single direction esc (or is programmed for single direction) you either need to buy a bi-directional esc, or program the one you have (if you can, not all ESCs let you)
Is it possible to use a continuous servo drive? Its much cheaper than getting two n20 motors and a dual brushed esc but my servo's only turn a certain amount, not forever, so I drive about an inch then stop But they are capable of 360 degree rotation
Yes, but its the worst possible drive idea Servos, by and large, are both heavier than N20 motors and also slower So, by running servos for drive, you basically ensure that your opponent has a bigger weapon/more armour and can drive circles around you. That's a good way to lose a lot of fights. Having said that, there are a ton of tutorial on youtube that show how to hack a servo into a continuous rotation servo
@@TeamPanicRobotics I figured it out and now the drive works alright but yes I should definitely upgrade to n20 motors. My bot is a 1lb antwight fully 3d printed
@@TeamPanicRobotics My Battlebot: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868667 I have both a servo and n20 drive version on thingiverse, mine is set up as a servo drive but I made an adapter so I'll be switching as soon as I can
The ESC type does not matter when you use this mixing set up. This mix, mixes the signal so that each channel gets the right values for each motor based on your stick position Using this mixing set up you can use a dual channel ESC or two single channel ESCs and it will work equally well
I dont know about the big 6ch one that comes with most fs-i6 transmitters but this one does: th-cam.com/video/npt4z8P3CeY/w-d-xo.html Its a little 4ch one and runs on up to 9v so perfect for running directly from a lipo
Honestly, I didnt know that was a thing. I learnt to mix by going to comps and asking for help and the method shown is the method used by everyone in my local club. I'll have to mess around with elevon mixing and get a feel for it. If its just as usable, or easier, I'll have to make a follow up video
That sounds like a problem with your ESCs. With the sticks in the middle, the transmitter will be sending out a middle signal. If the ESC is set up to do forwards and reverse then a middle signal means stop, but if the ESC is set up to only drive in one direction, a middle signal means spin the motor at half speed. To be more helpful then that I need more info. What escs are you using? What motors are you using? What receiver are you using? have you bound the receiver to the transmitter? have you set the fail safe on the reciever?
@@TeamPanicRobotics im using the emax simon series 20 amp esc + bec the sunnysky X2212-13 motors the FS-IA6B receiver and the FS-I6X remote the receiver and the reemote are definetly bound cuzz i have done things in the past. i have no idea about the failsafe for so far i know i have done nothing to change that setting. thnx for the reply
Nope, same set up on the transmitter Just in the tank, hook up 2 escs per channel (or two motors per esc if you are running brushed motors) Much much easier to do somethings in hardware then try to over complicate the software
What is all this mix crap?? Seems like a pain in the ass. Why not just change channels by the receiver to make it real easy? If you want to change something just unplug it and move it to a different channel.....
mixing means that pushing forward on the control stick turns both motors at the same time. Without mixing, you can change the plugs on your receiver all you like but moving a stick on the transmitter will only move one wheel at a time. This is a type of control, but most people find it more intuitive to have mixing
@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks! I haven't played with a rc car since the 90s. The last buggy I had was a team associated rc-10 b2 or b3. It's been a while. There has been a lot that has changed in world of rc since then. Thank you for the clarification.
Ahhh ok, this video is more focused on combat robots then RC cars. Combat robots tend to use tank steering so that they can turn on a dime. This is good for keeping your robot pointed at your opponent but requires the signals from the transmitter to be mixed together. RC cars still typically use back wheel drive and conventional car steering on the front, which doesnt need mixing
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Thank you so much for putting this together. There's a 0% chance I would have ever figured this out otherwise.
i just came across this video and it solved my problem with my first bot. Thank you so much!!
Wow wow wow! That is exactly what Justine advised me to do. The only thing is, I don't have a clue as to how to do it on the actual TX until now that I have watched your video. Good show mate thanks lots.
helpful video i am using your method with FSi6 to control a rudder-less boat - ( 2 thrusters which operate like tank steer ) thankyou. im also going to try elevon method and see how that gets on . I'm not a serious RC hobbyist but i've found the fsi6 to be a great value little transmitter for all my amateur projects despite its confusing button presses in the setup menus. the little battery voltage telemetry modules (FS-CVT01) which you can get for it are great too - well worth investing a few pounds if its a model that you really can't have a battery cut out situation, such as plane or boat. they also do temperature and RPM modules possibly others. good luck with tank steering everyone!
timely advice! I went searching through BG the other day, knowing next-to-nothing, looking for a good starter radio + receiver pair, sorted by price and ordered the least expensive unit with LCD and mixing capabilities, it was the FS-i6!
Thanks for making this video! I'm looking at options for controlling a vintage Kyosho tracked vehicle (a Heavy Metal) and this gave some really useful info.
Thank you for sharing this video, we are using the FS-i6 and this is very helpful. Here is something that my kids and I would find very useful as well, and that is how to program the radio to slow down how fast the bot turns left and right. We are finding that we are turning too quickly and would love to find a sweet spot that affords us more nuanced control.
There is a setting to reduce the value of the turn stick.
I'll have a bit of a look and try to get a short update out soon
@@TeamPanicRobotics Huge thanks!!!
Hey mate, I'm loving the introduction videos, they are very helpful for a near novice as myself. Thanks.
Great video+explanation+presentation! Thank you for sharing! Well done mate - NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Thank you very much. The funny part is that I have these same devices but I have been using an arduino to convert the PWM signals to control a motor controller in software. And I have 2 escs to make it way easier.
Interesting. I set the mixes like yours except the -100 on channel 1 and +100 on channel 2. it made my controls at 45 degrees to go forward. I reverted back to no mix, all works fine. My issue is needing a little more dead space in the middle in both axis and the left and right to be less sensitive. It steers side to side too quickly. Mine is based on wheelchair motor and a sabertooth driver.
I am glad this setup works for you
Yes, you could do it all electronically... The ol' FlySky FS-wotsit Tx is a sound piece of kit. But I favour a crew of trained hamsters. 4 little furry guys, clambering about inside the bot, shouting orders, pulling this, turning that, loading the other; leaning out through the hatch to peer at the oncoming enemy through binoculars...
I was listening to 'Tank' by The Stranglers yesterday, working out J.J.B's bass part. And last night I had the strangest dream. Can you tell?
This was completely helpful for me 😊😊. Thank you very much for this video 😊.
Glad it was helpful!
great tutorial...i just use the elevon mixing and iron out the rest with the trims..
Man thanks for this, have now changed this on my Skid steer robot.
Seriously, many thanks for sharing these tips!
Thanks a lot mate. Can you do the same demo on the fx i6S. Will be a great help for an old bugger trying to do young guys things. I get so confused trying to on a touch screen. All the best for 2021.
You're providing a great service here, my friend! Another informative video... Keep them coming!
I have a Fs T6 and I'm fairly confident the info is interchangeable (the setting screens are identical as far as I'm aware). Either way, it's been hard for me to find this information so thanks again!
Update on the challenge from last week: the googly eyes have just arrived
@Harold Arian ok what the hell is this
Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Wonderful youtube. I tried it and got it messed up by labeling motors and wires incorrectly. Went back to basics (motor 1 is motor 1 is motor A and is on left facing forward (port side)). Now it all works like a champ.
Great tuition. What is the OFFSET button used for in the mix menu?
Çok teşekkürler.. bu videoyu türkçe kaynaklarda bulamadım. tek kanal ile iki motoru ters yönde nasıl hareket ettireceğimi videonuz sayesinde buldum. elimdeki kumanda videodaki nin alt modeli ekransız olanı. ama bilgisayar arayüz programı var. oradan yapacağım tüm ayarlamaları..
Hi just completed my dozer d5 Bruder, I’ve got the FS-i6 . I’ve done everything what you should but can’t get the sticks to respond left and right. Is there anything else I can do. Thanks
OMG TY SO MUCH!!!, LIKED AND SAVED.
For the beginner like myself, there is a couple of other things I'd like to know how to set up on a controller like this.
1. If I want, let's say a motor, to be controllable by an aux switch (bad example is bad but it's the best easy way I can think of it) How would one set the aux channel up? By which I mean; by default, a 2 setting switch goes from -100% to 100% which on a motor would be full reverse and full forward. But I don't want it to do that, I want it to be full stop to full forward.
The actual use I want this for is for the eletromagnetic suspention idea, since wiring -100% would just swap polarity. Pretty sure I'd still need to link something like an ESC or some kind of controller up to it to be able to control it from the transmitter.
2. Can an aux switch on this transmitter be used as a reverse switch? My first bot might be a flipper, but I'm going to want to build an invertable spinner eventually. Would I have to buy a new transmitter, or can this one pull of an "I'm upside down!" switch. (Friendly reminder to set one up for AnneRUOK, if you've not.)
For num 1) there's two ways to do that, the easiest way is to use an ESC that's not bi-directional (like most brushless escs) because for a single direction ESC -100% is a full stop
The second way would be a mix which forces the low end to 0%, I've done something like this before with channel 4 but would need to dig into my old mix settings to give a guide on how to do it
For 2) Not on the stock firmware, I have heard that there is a firmware for these transmitters out there that has better mixing and can be used to do a reverse switch, but I haven't tested it yet.
I'll look into that for a future video
(I'm moving Annie_R_U_OK over to a new transmitter and will be working on an invert switch on that, thanks for the reminder though)
Thanks for this. Very helpful. Quick few questions. If I wanted to add a weapon, would it be a case of plugging the ESC into channel 3 or 4 and then using the other thumbstick to control it?
Also, if I am more comfortable driving using the default two thumbsticks, how would I set up a weapon? Could I use anything else on the transmitter for this?
yes, weapons normally just get plugged straight into the 3rd or 4th channel with no mixing
I'm not sure about driving with two thumbsticks, in theory you should be able to do this mix across the thumbsticks as long as you pay attention to the channels used and plug your drives in correctly
It will make weapon control more difficult on these controllers as the switches on them are your only other option for weapon control and they dont have a lot of options for use and cant be mixed with the sticks
I'm using the same radio, but an fs-ia10b receiver. I've done the mix as you've shown, but only one of my motors are working. Should I remove the positive pin from that motor to get it going?
If I were to power my tank with continuous rotation servos rather than motors, could I then run it with only a reciever and no speed controller? Thank you!
yes, continuous rotation servos have an inbuilt speed controller
Thank you so much! I’ve got a question, how do I by chance make the motor go backwards and forwards on channel 1. I’ve been stumped on figuring it out especially because I’m using a brushed motor
Thanksssssssss brother I can't thank u enough 🤓😇💯❤️❤️❤️
Even the remote in Australia has the spring stick on the other side.
Most Merkins like Mode 2; much of the rest of the world likes Mode 1. Definitely not worth going to war over. Just do whatever makes you happy.
I'm English, which makes me not only un-Merkin, but also bad and nasty and ugly and evil and wrong; Brits drive cars on the left. It's just an old tradition. No biggie. We should probably not bother going to war over that, either. Again, just do whatever makes you happy. Nobody's judging. Nobody cares.
And as for 'dressing' on the left or on the right (hem, hem)... Well, I'm a woman, so I don't do either. I've got a bra that does its best to lift and separate, if that's any help...
@@EleanorPeterson A lot of of text for a lighthearted remark
@@ThyrusEvo- Oh yes. I've got text for all occasions. But lighthearted remarks need a smiley face or they can so easily be taken as something entirely different.
No matter what type of car, bus, truck, van or lorry you drive, and whichever side of the road you drive on, and in whichever country you live - yes, even if it's the 'United States of 'We Drive On The Right Out Of Spite For Our Embarrassing Colonial Origins' America - the accelerator pedal is on the right, under your right foot.
In RC terms, that's Mode 1. Throttle on the right.
Right foot. It's on the right-hand side.
And the throttle on a motorbike is in your right hand. Your right, not your left.
It's on the right. As with a Mode 1 transmitter. Throttle on the right. Accelerator on the right. In a car you sit on the right and drive on the left - unless you're weird - but you always use your right foot on the throttle.
For cars with a manual transmission and pedals (I think U.S. peeps call them 'stick-shift'), the clutch is on the left; the brake is in the middle. What's on the right? The 'gas' is on the right.
Yup.
Even if you drive an automatic, the brake's on the left and the throttle is on the right. Hey, don't blame me. That's just the way it goes. So having the throttle on the right (Mode 1) on an RC transmitter isn't THAT weird. In fact, it makes quite a bit more sense than having it on the left, especially if you're driving a ground-based vehicle-type thingy with wheels.
So... er...
Whatever.
Oh dear, I forgot the smiley face.
There's a huge difference between making a humorous comment about Australia being upside-down, and a comment drawing attention to an Australian who's 'backward' and doesn't think like you do.
A comment about Australia is aimed at a country. It's geographical. The Antipodes. Yep. Upside-down. On the bottom of the globe. Inverted. Don't fall off. Ha ha. That's funny.
But a comment about the way a guy thinks is an attack on him. On his thought processes. It's not a subtle distinction. It's like left- or right-handedness: there's nothing amusing about being either, and certainly no need to draw attention to it. But hey, if the transmitter controls are set up backwards, maybe Ben's a bit backward, too. You know, a bit simple. Retarded. Kinda dumb, like all foreigners.
Oh, didn't you mean that? Too late. It's not what you say, Mr Trump, it's the way that people hear it that counts.
I chose to interpret your Comment as: "We, the right-thinking Mode 2 people of the world who have our throttle stick on the left, don't take kindly to your messed-up ways, so don't go trying to pass off any weird foreign stuff as normal. As a faithful Mode 2 user, it's my duty to ridicule your Mode 1 beliefs and to seek the approval of my peers via TH-cam. Now let's all laugh at Ben for not being like us."
In a school playground he'd be pelted with mud or dog poo till he moved his throttle to the left stick. In Texas the townsfolk would form a posse to ride him out of town. On TH-cam, viewers would join in by liking your Comment hundreds of times to show how right they thought you were to highlight Ben's depraved Mode 1 behaviour.
Did I get hold of the wrong end of the stick? Never mind. At least it was on the correct side.
Thanks for going slowly enough that we beginners can follow both what you said and what buttons you were pushing to get that done!
I'm curious about your ESC. In order to most efficiently drive 2 tank tread motors, am I correct that I need to use to separate brushed ESCs?
If you would suggest a single ESC with JST power leads for 2 motors instead, what should I look for (what is this called)?
Your video greatly simplified what for me, was a very confusing programming task. Cheers! - Jim
Glad it helped!
I tend to use DFrobot Mirco Metal Gear motors that have an ESC on the back of the, or custom ESCs
However some of the people I know use "5a dual brushed esc" from places like eBay and Aliexpress, thats a good search term to use and gives results like this:
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000202935819.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.67927190BjE3CZ&algo_pvid=1c005a99-90f5-4f9d-88a8-de1a235512fe&algo_expid=1c005a99-90f5-4f9d-88a8-de1a235512fe-0&btsid=0bb0623a16225131825212880e3506&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
As I havent personally used them, I cant vouch for the effectiveness, but they should at least be on the right track
So, how can we the same thing but goforward and backward with ch3(throttle) to make more sensitive control
Thx for the video, it helped a lot. But I have a little problem. I'm running a Tank, two Quickrun ESCs go into the receiver (channels 1+2). It's working as intended, but one ESC cuts off after a few seconds and only one track is moved. After moving the stick to the zero podition it starts running again for a few seconds. I changed the ESC as well as the position they have on the receiver and also the motors. No effect. Maybe the radio that's faulty?
I have no experience with Quickrun ESC and you've given no information on motors or battery voltage
A quick google says they are a brushless ESC
I cannot give you guided help here as theres far too many unknowns and I have no experience with your setup.
But it sounds like an ESC issue not a receiver issue, if it was a receiver issue either it would never come good again until you power cycle the tank (the receiver has an electrical fault) or it would come good on its own randomly (the receiver has a signal issue)
The fact you need to push the stick to the 0 position sounds like the ESC is shutting down and is needing to see a 0 signal to start up again
Its possible that they are overvaulting or seeing a massive negative spike when you suddenly reverse drive and are shutting down
But take all of that with a huge grain of salt as its mostly a guess based on how esc's work in general as I have no experience with Quickrun ESCs
@@TeamPanicRobotics No problem, thank you for responding. I also think it's the ESC that's causing this, I will order a new one and change it. If the problem remains I'll have one spare. And yes, they are brushless ESCs with 540 Crawler Motors attached to it. Have a nice day mate.
Hello bro can you tell what brushed esc did you used please 🥺 tell .
That depends on why brushed motor I'm trying to run
What about turning at max forward, max backward? Will it make one of the motors slow down?
I'd love to know the setup for a Lara motor
Cheers
John
Nice video! I was just wondering if your robot has two esc’s or if your using one dual motor esc. Thanks!
For most robots I use two ESC's, one for each motor, but in ant weights I will sometimes use a dual motor esc
brilliant video - exactly the kind of thing that's needed for someone starting up!
got any advice of how to correct for bots drifting to the side slightly - or if one of the wheels seems to turn at the same time (if I move the stick very gently then on turns while the other is still)
Try rebinding.
Thank you! How is it that your self centering stick is on the different side than mine?
transmitters are sold with different "modes" i just have the mode where the self centering stick is on the other side
Usually it just means that stick has an extra spring, and in some cases you can open the transmitter up and change which stick self centers
Great video! Thanks for the tips. What happens when you push the stick to the corners - like upper left or lower right? Does it provide variable power to each motor, like a skid steer? I am wondering if I could use this to power only the left motor, or only the right motor, independently for more gradual turning.
Yep! this mixing provides variable power to each motor at every stick position
I'm pretty sure you can get the stick into a spot where its only giving power to one wheel
@@TeamPanicRobotics Terrific! Thanks so much for the response. Excellent video!
Hi, im having a problem with the transmitter. It can only go one way, if i want the motors to not rotate i have to hold the stick in the cornor. Basically it Shouldn’t be rotating if the stick is in the middel, but mine does. I Hope you can help me with this
This is not a problem with the transmitter it is a problem with your ESCs
You need ESCs that are programmed to do forwards and reverse motor direction
Okay thank you so much.
Thanks Ben awesome information im just about time order that handset ? Will you be showing how to mix the weapon motor or is that straight forward?
I dont use any mixing on my weapons.
With the sticks set up as shown, the "throttle" stick is channel 3, I just plug my weapon ESC into that and use the throttle stick as is to control weapon speed
Just what i needed. Thank`s
where is that power switch wired between? I have a large (new to me) 24v robot. Original owner/ builder had a switch like that to power it down (two wire + & - it appears with 3 pin female sockets) very low gauge wire. The fella I bought this from removed it. (I'm third owner) Im trying to figure out where to reinsert it and am at a loss. My ESC(s) are 24v Victor 883. My remote is a 6 channel simple one hand remote....but does differential twin motor controlling (ok.. so its not a smmmalll robot) . Any advise?
I’m doing something similar to your on a hoverboard. I downloaded a firmware the right stick only work moving left and right to go forward with backwards ( both wheels move simultaneously) . Not sure which mode I should go into? Without overthinking it. And I’m still not sure what mix does exactly in my case … just in case you ask I have it connected to the ch1/ppm
I'm sorry I dont really understand your set up or know enough about hoverboards to be able to help you with this
@@TeamPanicRobotics i tested your thing out it doesn’t work on my hoverboard wheels. I thought it would work but it doesnt. It’s because it both plug into a circuit board. Rather independent the firmware i uploaded to it on GitHub is only programmed to run backwards and forwards simultaneously
Thanks a lot for this video! I am a beginner with Skyfly and you show and teach very clear the Skyfly modes. Just one question. If I did everything you taught us but by going forward the wheels start (or tend) to go to one side, how would you solve this issue? Again, thank you for your big help (at least for me).
this could be to do with the trim for your left/right channel. there is a little rocker switch under the stick, push it in the opposite direction to the way the robot tends to move
It could also be your ESC or your motors, if your motors dont have the same gear boxes one will always go faster then the other, causing the robot to turn
@@TeamPanicRobotics Thanks again! I will try your advices. Have a nice day!
love you bro, you save me
Nice video, witch ESC do you use?, I try with this ESC (Hobbywing Eagle 20A ESC For Brushed Motor For RC Airplane Plane 370 380 390 280 270) but i can't reverse the motors.
The ESC's I use depend on the robot and the motors I am trying to drive.
But when buying ESC's I make sure they are Bi-Directional or have the option to make them Bi-Directional in software
I need help! I have a Flysky I6X transmitter to control my tracked inspection bot. But when I first switch the transmitter on, it beeps and gives me this message: "!!WARNING!! Place all switches in their up position and lower the throttle" Sometimes I just bump my left toggle switch, channel 3, and it stops the warning and gives me full control. But all too often, it doesn't matter how many switches and toggles I move around, it just keeps beeping and will not give me control. What is it doing and how do I get it to stop? I have a simple tank chassis with a light and camera gimble on it. It's not like I need a safety switch to start with. Can you help me?
Hi
I'm not sure its possible to turn that feature off, and I do get that it can be a pain
In the past I've had switches break (usually after transporting the transmitter) and they have been stuck in the wrong state, so the transmitter gets stuck giving that error
If lowering the throttle and toggling the switches back to their default (all up) is not fixing it, I'd suspect you also have a broken switch
Which gives you two options, replace it, or disconnect it and either leave the leads disconnected or connected together (which ever one lets the controller start up)
@@TeamPanicRobotics Thank you for your response, but it seems to have straightened itself out. It drove me to my wits end and sent me seeking help and then just like that, it's working normal again.
You suppose it was ashamed that I had to complain about it?😄
It works well! Thank you. But how to setup the reverse/backward? When it is on reverse/bakward the steering is reverse too. Turn left becoming turn right and vice versa. Any idea on how to fix this?
I dont, its only very recently that learned this was the case.
I have been using this mixing set up for a few years now and it never came up, I just dont turn while driving backwards.
It might be possible to fix this issue, but it will be a much more complicated mixing algorithm that I dont think the Fs-i6 can handle
@@TeamPanicRobotics Ahh that does make sense, as this kind of steering is capable to do tight turning actually we dont really need to turn while reverse. Straight reverse and neutral turn is enough. Okay, thank you for the share!
Hey
is there a way to set diff performance modes using the aux switches
like mode 1 will enable 50% motor power in all directions
and mode 2 will enable 100% motor power in all directions
mainly to have more precision on the stick while doing tighter movements
As far as I know, not for this controller with stock firmware, its fairly basic
I've heard rumour of more advanced firmware out there but havent ever used it myself so cant comment
Thanks for the valuable info. I don't have a very hi techo brain. I would appreciate a show on how to with 4 motors. like in 4wd.
Its the same mixing for 2wd and 4wd
Just with 4wd you plug two ESCs into each channel on the receiver.
So the ESCs that control the left motors get plugged into the same port on the reciver and the two ESCs that control the right motors are plugged into the other
@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks for the valuable reply mate. From Australia.
I am sooo confused. I've bought 2x motor controllers where the port markings on the controllers were not corresponding with the manual. I think I got that sorted. Enable wire was the problem as there was no port marked EN. I then got no joy whilst output mode on my rc was in PWM mode, just tried PPM and the bloody wheel went full speed. Now I'm at my wits end. Do you think you can assist me here.
Thanks. Mine worked for few minutes. An then now all I have the wheels run opposite in all positions. I went to reverse an changed one at a time an made no difference in the rotation
did the mix save correctly?
You need to long hold the cancil button for the mix to save
I'd double check that as a first step
Hey Ben
Been watching your video on Mixing Fly Sky channels for robot tank steering. I have a FS i6X TX and matching 6 channel RX, and am trying to use them for differential steering a land vehicle, using two ex hoverboard motors (BLDC 350 Watt at 12 volts) and ZS-X11H control boards. I can't get a full range of duty cycle out of the Tx/Rx combo, it only outputs between 5% and 12% duty cycle PWM to the throttle inputs, not enough to operate the motors. Any suggestions as to how to get 0% to 100% duty cycle out of the FlySky Tx/Rx please?
Ken
Hi Ken
The Rx does not output full duty cycle PWM, it outputs servo signals, these are a PWM signal used to transmit data.
A servo signal is a short pulse, 1ms - 2ms in a 20ms frame.
To convert a servo signal from your RX to full duty cycle PWM to drive a motor you need an ESC.
For old hoverboard motors you need big escs, most people will use a VESC or similar, usually rated for 50A or higher
@@TeamPanicRobotics Many thanks Ben for your prompt response. I have seen references to that previously, but not a clear explanation as you have provided.
The vehicle is only small, (a full scale model of Dr Who's robot dog K9) so the 350 Watt motors will not have to work very hard. I will have a look at inserting an Arduino between the FSky Rx and the motor control boards, and try to map the narrow range of PWM from the Rx out to a wider range, to get a more useful speed range out of the FSky/Arduino/ motor control board combo.
Thanks again
Regards
Ken
Is it possible to do a QX7 video? I just purchased one and am having trouble setting up the mixing.
Maybe in future, I have a qx7 but use it infrequently, so I dont know enough to feel confident posting a tutorial yet
Hi, i am using flysky 6x for my tank robot. But not able to do settings. Im set up mode 2 where right stick has channel 1 & 2, Im using scorpion mini dual controller. Can you Please advise me complete settings.
Make sure you are pressing and holding the button to lock the settings in place
muito bom obrigado amigo era isso mesmo que eu precisava.
Out of curiosity, how compatible are all the various transmitters and receivers? Is there a single RF protocol or a mix of proprietary systems?
Unfortunately, they're not generally compatible at all; there are many systems. Some of the more expensive transmitters have a "multiprotocol module" system which allows them to drive different types of receivers (not all at once, selectable from the menu). The protocol we usually use with the FS-i6 is called "AFHDS2A", which is not to be confused with older FS protocols.
what mark said, but the i6 supports afhds as well as afhds2a, its a setting you can change to use the older flysky receivers
Thank you I just got the i6x but one wheel turns faster then the other. How do I adjust this?
Adjust the Trim on the Transmitter on either wheel on the transmitter.
Thanks, very helpful!
Hey bro. Is it possible same with flysky fs i4x transmitter?? Pla reply
I dont know, because I dont own a flysky fs i4x
Sorry
I just have a question about creating my own 3d printed tank, I am using the FS-I6x which has a 6 channel receiver, I am trying to run this set up in a tank mode so the left stick controls the left track and the right controls the right back and fourth too. I was wondering if you guys could possibly do a tutorial on how to set this up because I have been having so much trouble with trying this, thanks.
Sorry missed this one,
No mixing is needed to do 2 stick tank steering.
One of the forward/back sticks will be a channel, the other forward/back stick will be a different channel (look at your controllers manual to work out which is which)(usually 1 and 3)
Simply plug the motor on the left into a bi directional ESC, plug the ESC into power and into the channel that corresponds to the left stick, same for the right motor, but plug it into the channel for the right stick
@@TeamPanicRobotics hey, I understand what you are saying but I tried this and -100 percent on both sides on the sticks equals 0 for the motor so I have to hold the sticks all the way down to stop the motor from moving, I also have no reverse because instead of -100 being reverse, it’s 0 for the motor, I tried dub trims and trims but non of this work, I have bought the spectrum dx6e to try it on that and it’s no better. Not sure if maybe you can help with this?
thanks a million!
hey I have been trying to make thr control in dual stick. Is it even possible? Like, left goes forward backward and Right goes left-right. Also I want to use both stick togather like an RC car.
it should be, Stick directions are given numbers, that how the mixing works, it mixes 1 with 2
All you need to do is use the "modes" in the menu, and find one where 1 is the forward-backward on the left stick and 2 is left-right on the right stick
@@TeamPanicRoboticsI’m trying to get this working but the problem is that the throttle curve only works on the left stick as far as I can tell
Thats not correct, these transmitters run the same firmware regardless of how the sticks are set up (they sell this same controller with the unsprung stick both left and right and the provided firmware on both options is exactly the same), so in firmware there are the options to treat both sticks exactly the same, if you haven't found the throttle curve for the right stick then it might be berried in a menu or you might need to change some other setting first (like maybe the stick mode)
I use stick mode 3 which puts ch 1 as the left/right on the right stick and ch 2 as up/down on the right stick. If I swapped it to stick mode 1 it would put ch 1 as the left/right on the left stick and keeps ch 2 as up/down on the right stick
Unfortunately, I'm really not an expert at these controllers, I have exactly one use case for them (setting them up as shown in this video), so I know the settings and setups to get them to do exactly that. But for other use cases, I'm a little out of my depth
I do all these but when I connect and the stick is in the center position it makes the motors go at 50%. Am I doing something wrong or is it the type of esc im using?
yes, the esc you are using is a single direction esc (or is programmed for single direction) you either need to buy a bi-directional esc, or program the one you have (if you can, not all ESCs let you)
@@TeamPanicRobotics I ended up getting it. Forgot I had it programmed wrong. Thank you.
Nice. Thanks!
great
hi ı have bts 7960 driver how can use with receiver ?
Is it possible to use a continuous servo drive?
Its much cheaper than getting two n20 motors and a dual brushed esc but my servo's only turn a certain amount, not forever, so I drive about an inch then stop
But they are capable of 360 degree rotation
Yes, but its the worst possible drive idea
Servos, by and large, are both heavier than N20 motors and also slower
So, by running servos for drive, you basically ensure that your opponent has a bigger weapon/more armour and can drive circles around you. That's a good way to lose a lot of fights.
Having said that, there are a ton of tutorial on youtube that show how to hack a servo into a continuous rotation servo
@@TeamPanicRobotics I figured it out and now the drive works alright but yes I should definitely upgrade to n20 motors.
My bot is a 1lb antwight fully 3d printed
@@TeamPanicRobotics My Battlebot: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4868667
I have both a servo and n20 drive version on thingiverse, mine is set up as a servo drive but I made an adapter so I'll be switching as soon as I can
Looks good!
Really like the shape of the drum
Thank you
What kind of esc are you using? Most esc are just for one channel
The ESC type does not matter when you use this mixing set up.
This mix, mixes the signal so that each channel gets the right values for each motor based on your stick position
Using this mixing set up you can use a dual channel ESC or two single channel ESCs and it will work equally well
@@TeamPanicRobotics thank you. Do you know if the fs-ia6 reciever works with 7.4v?
I dont know about the big 6ch one that comes with most fs-i6 transmitters but this one does: th-cam.com/video/npt4z8P3CeY/w-d-xo.html
Its a little 4ch one and runs on up to 9v so perfect for running directly from a lipo
Why not use elevon mixing, like Luke does in this video? th-cam.com/video/eGvwfhlsc3o/w-d-xo.html&feature=em-comments
Honestly, I didnt know that was a thing.
I learnt to mix by going to comps and asking for help and the method shown is the method used by everyone in my local club.
I'll have to mess around with elevon mixing and get a feel for it.
If its just as usable, or easier, I'll have to make a follow up video
does anyone know how to do this mixing on TBS Tango Pro 2. Need help :(
Can you do the same for FSI6X ?
Unfortunately I dont have an FSI6X, so I cant be sure, but I think the menu's are very similar
@@TeamPanicRobotics k thx for the reply
Help i did this but as soon as the stick is in the middle my motors start spinning like mad anyone now the solution
That sounds like a problem with your ESCs.
With the sticks in the middle, the transmitter will be sending out a middle signal.
If the ESC is set up to do forwards and reverse then a middle signal means stop, but if the ESC is set up to only drive in one direction, a middle signal means spin the motor at half speed.
To be more helpful then that I need more info.
What escs are you using?
What motors are you using?
What receiver are you using?
have you bound the receiver to the transmitter?
have you set the fail safe on the reciever?
@@TeamPanicRobotics im using the
emax simon series 20 amp esc + bec
the sunnysky X2212-13 motors
the FS-IA6B receiver
and the FS-I6X remote
the receiver and the reemote are definetly bound cuzz i have done things in the past.
i have no idea about the failsafe for so far i know i have done nothing to change that setting.
thnx for the reply
I have this contorller an need help slowing my steering down
That can be done with rate limiting I belive, but I've not done it in a long time
Hey hey!!!
Can use with bldc motor
yes, it will work with a bldc motor IF your bldc ESC has a bi-directional mode active
On a 4wd tank it's a but more complicated.
Nope, same set up on the transmitter
Just in the tank, hook up 2 escs per channel (or two motors per esc if you are running brushed motors)
Much much easier to do somethings in hardware then try to over complicate the software
thanks
I love how there's no dislikes
first
What is all this mix crap?? Seems like a pain in the ass. Why not just change channels by the receiver to make it real easy? If you want to change something just unplug it and move it to a different channel.....
mixing means that pushing forward on the control stick turns both motors at the same time.
Without mixing, you can change the plugs on your receiver all you like but moving a stick on the transmitter will only move one wheel at a time. This is a type of control, but most people find it more intuitive to have mixing
@@TeamPanicRobotics thanks! I haven't played with a rc car since the 90s. The last buggy I had was a team associated rc-10 b2 or b3. It's been a while. There has been a lot that has changed in world of rc since then. Thank you for the clarification.
Ahhh ok, this video is more focused on combat robots then RC cars.
Combat robots tend to use tank steering so that they can turn on a dime. This is good for keeping your robot pointed at your opponent but requires the signals from the transmitter to be mixed together.
RC cars still typically use back wheel drive and conventional car steering on the front, which doesnt need mixing