I once heard someone describe those VW "filters/strainers" as not so much of a filter but rather just something to catch bits of piston. The external full flow filter is definitely a great investment for one of these cars. Good video, Rich.
Definitely, the intro adds polish to your video. The real hero in this story though is not fancy technical eye candy, it is the excellent man and his video content so graciously shared. Thanks always to Richpin06a!
Dj, read the vw beetle manuals from Mexico. While they have an external oil filter fitted on their 1600 dp motors, it states that the recommended oil is in fact 15w-40. Diesel oil is used for its zinc properties.
For those people that don't have a sense of knowing the correct torque to put on the oil sump cover, surely use a light duty torque wrench, I am sure that the Volkswagon manual gives a setting for these nuts.
In Australia, Penrite has zinc additives. There's also some black bottle of oil that has zinc, forget the name though, Brad Penn I think. It was only useful due to the slack tolerances in early engine machining.
If you can hear the engine spinning over when you try to start it could need a tune up.Back in the day we used to put new points and condenser (which are inside the distributor) spring and fall.
Because they stop producing that cover on the later VWs with the drain plug to force people to drop the cover and clean the strainer.I wanted to show how you drain the oil without the center drain plug.
Great video, I guess if the filter/strainer is changed then there' no need to remove the drain plug as you are taking the plate off anyway, saves breaking the seal and risking a leaking drain plug!.
A very informative video. I definitely learned a few more tips. But which wire was the one you removed /disconnected (Positive or negative) from the coil prior to turning over the motor?
I always disconnect the positive, I'm not sure if disconnecting the ground would even do anything because the distributor is grounded to the engine which is grounded to the frame anyhow so that would accomplish nothing
Smashing tutorial :-) You have a loverly car, you must have put a lot of work into it, so clean and fresh looking :-) Like the added oil filter and prefill, dam good idea :-)
I like the idea of running the engine before you change, so that oil gets up to the top part of the engine and into micropassages. During restart there are bubbles in the lines and so oil delivery will always be poor at first, even if you disable the ignition. With oil already where it needs to be the damage to the engine on first startup is minimized.
Rich, what is the bolt in the middle of that cover for? Is it for draining the oil before removing the screen cover? By the way... NICE BUG!! You should do a video about it. We'd like to see the rest of it.
The only thing I have ever found in the strainer is bits of cork from the valve cover gaskets. Clean the strainer every 3rd oil change. Vavoline 30 wt VR-1 is perfect for 30 to 100 degree climates. Lots of zinc in this oil which is needed. Do not put the whole 3 qts. in. 2.6 qts. only on a stock engine. Owners manual !!
Nice example there Rich- I see you have dual carbs so I assume you have bigger than 1600 cc there? Interesting about the Rotella, so you can use diesel ol in air cooled then?? back in the day they used straight 30 weight I had many bugs growing up and for winter transportation many years ago- most had the typical heater channel and floor board rust as I lived in MA, also the front ibeam was noted for rusting and I have even seen a few fail and you know what happens then - amazing the following that VW has now and the cost to restore- You know when they were made their true purpose was to be one step above using a bus as VW commercials depict
They recommended straight grade oil because multi viscosity oil wasn't very good when the older models were made. However in the 70s this changed and vw updated their recommendations to multi viscosity oil. The oil he used is correct.
Contamination in the oil from the combustion process makes the oil acidic and can lead to corrosion to engine components. I'd recommend switching to pre-storage oil change not post-storage. Storing 4stroke oil with CLEAN oil is a much better idea!!!
More, I think that Diesel oil still has a good bit ZDDP in it, which was outlawed from regular oils. ZDDP is great for older non roller cam engines, but plays hell with catalytic converters on newer stuff. See the ZDDP Wikipedia article for more, especially note the "Applications" heading of the article.
First of all, catalytic converters didn't appear until after the 1975 EPA mandates for non-leaded gas. So, ZDDP doesn't apply on the pre-1975 engines. The newer diesel and high ZDDP oils have less ZDDP in them now, so it isn't much of an issue anymore. I ran Rotella T6 in my Miata and it didn't hurt the O2 sensors or cats at all. Times have changed. Note that classic car websites do offer higher ZDDP oils which would not apply in this conversation.
Only one question. Why didn´t you remove the drain plug in the center, to let the bulk of the oil drain before removing the plate? I found that way much easier for me!
rich pin Oops, showing my age again!! I only ever owned Bugs with a drain plug!! I honestly did not know until recently how popular these cars are. I was always blown away with the SMELL of the Teutonic interior of all three of my cars, two bugs and a type 3 fastback.
Thank you so much for this great video! I am (for the first time) finishing this oil change procedure today on my 1965 transporter. I recently bought the van and I'm not sure what size engine is in it. The old oil strainer was clean when I removed it. BUT, the rivet was broken that held the little spool shaped receiver in place in the middle of the screen. So it was just loose. That looked like it could get sucked upward and try to block the oil pickup tube. SO, I ordered a new strainer and have it here. It looks the same EXCEPT it is 3/16 of an inch not as tall as the original one I removed. Does that difference matter? Are there different sizes? Thanks again.
t. kobylarz I have a question. I would like to install an Oil Pressure Sender / Switch onto my 1969 Beetle. I'm unable to determine where it is to be installed. Can you help me?
If it had a radiator in it it would be an option, but there is no radiator in this vehicle, I need to find out about the hose connection myself so I can't help you with that
I gave up with all of this strainer nonsense years ago and I just use a topside oil extractor and extract the oil through the dipstick hole. (I always get 2.5 quarts out with the front end of the car angled up a bit). The strainer is just there to "keep the big hunks out" of the oil pickup and that's all. The strainer has nothing to do with filtering the oil. If you have a clogged strainer screen that needs to be cleaned, you have serious problems anyway.
~ What's the purpose of the big nut in the middle? People have told me that Quaker State oil is the best for VW engines, why do you think they say that?
hi Rich.. were they new gaskets for the oil "strainer" or did you just clean up the original ones? 2) how big of a job is it to install external filter... and what about external oil cooler?
GroupMax1000 I always use new gaskets and washers which are in the kit.The remote filter like mine is quite involved because you have to drill and tap the engine case.They do have one that is less work which replaces the oil pump cover.I left my oil cooler stock but they have remote ones for that also.
When you're cleaning the strainer does it matter whether the brake cleaner is non-chlorinated or not? And same question applies to actually cleaning up brakes on an old VW
My baby is a 1970 Beetle Sedan. It's my dream car. I'm having a bit of trouble with him at the moment though, he isn't starting up... I checked out the alternator and that isn't the issue. I also checked the oil as well as the air filter but it's all clean. It's most likely the battery, but I just wasn't sure. The guy I bought it from said it was a brand new battery. Do you recommend anything else I should check out before purchasing a new battery? I'm not an expert like you, but I'm learning!!!
Katya Harmel My guess is the starter. If it has sat at all, it can get stuck in places. Try tapping the starter, and then turn the key. My beetle sat for quite a while and occasionally the starter sticks on it. But tapping it never fails.
great video Rich, i own a 75 thing, pretty good condition, i've restored it somewhat. not as beautiful as your bug but good non the less. regards, from Monterrey Mexico.
Was there a reason why you didn't just unscrew the big bolt first instead of all the smallest ones? So all the oil can come off and then take the cover off.
Thats excellent advise about cranking the engine sans ignition till you get oil pressure. Especially if it's an engine you really care about, and/or it's been sitting for an extended period. If you really want to be anal, pull the plugs as well. Whenever possible after engine rebuilds, I like to run oil pumps with a home made drive shaft and the electric drill... long enough to develop pressure, and throughly purge the bubbles out of all the bearings. You have to really hang onto the drill too!
Why is there an oil drain plug in the center if no one uses it, I asked that because I've watched several of these videos and everyone just undoes the pattern around the edge to remove the cover, letting the oil drain all around it, so what was the point of the drain plug initially?
@@RichpinTv you answered the wrong question but thanks anyway, I asked why is it there if no one uses it, I can think of several reasons but I just wanted to hear what other people said, thank you for your answer.
If I don't have access to Rotella T can I use regular Delo 400 instead or is Delo too thick? Thanks for the video, I feel much more confident in changing the oil in my bug.
Damn that's a thick oil to run in such a little engine, but then again I always figured these babys just used straight 30 weight if you didn't have an oil filter.
Maybe I'm new to VW's, but it appears your brake bleeder (wheel cylinder) is on the bottom of your backing plate at the 8:57 mark. Shouldn't these be on the top?!? It is on my VW. How do you get the air out of the brake system? Is this some cool new improvement that I don't know about?
Vw eliminated the center plug on the later ones.I presume they did it because people were only removing the center plug when doing there oil changes and not removing the whole plate to clean the screen underneath.
That makes sense. Just definitely less messy to drain the oil through the center plug first (if equipped) and then remove the plate to clean / replace the screen. Cheers!
That is the main reason for original oil changes every 2.500 Km: 2 & 1/2 liters are cheap, throws away the dirt & since quick temperature changes, disrupt the oil molecule in an air cooled engine FASTER & SOONER than on watter cooled vehicles, new lubricant has a fresh molecule. Remember that the OiL COOLER cicle starts with HOT oil & COOLS it before lubricating the engine parts. We say "air cooled", but 75% of the engine is cooled by oil.
I have seen this a lot were the threads in the nuts are worn away.In most cases the studs are in good shape.You have to be very carefully not to over tighten those nuts.
I once heard someone describe those VW "filters/strainers" as not so much of a filter but rather just something to catch bits of piston. The external full flow filter is definitely a great investment for one of these cars. Good video, Rich.
My engine doesn't have bits of pistons coming off, if you do you should overhaul yours now
Definitely, the intro adds polish to your video. The real hero in this story though is not fancy technical eye candy, it is the excellent man and his video content so graciously shared. Thanks always to Richpin06a!
Dj, read the vw beetle manuals from Mexico. While they have an external oil filter fitted on their 1600 dp motors, it states that the recommended oil is in fact 15w-40. Diesel oil is used for its zinc properties.
I use “Valvoline VR1 Racing oil” in my 1600cc no frills ‘74 VW air cooled engine… it’s high in Zinc! Great stuff!
I use “Valvoline VR1 Racing oil” in my 1600cc no frills ‘74 VW air cooled engine… it’s high in Zinc! Great stuff!
Thank you i am going to check it out ASAP.
Why not drain the oil from the middle bolt first!
Right, i was thinking the same too...removing that middle bolt first will help minimize oil mess.
Why waste a seal on that?
Jonas Larsson is toere an seal fore that bolt?
@@damiangroenveld1700 A fiber or copper washer is proper.
That would be way too simple and makes the video too short.:)
Beutiful car.thanks for showing me how to do it.
im 13 and dont know alot about vw engines
. . tight is tight , too tight is broke
For those people that don't have a sense of knowing the correct torque to put on the oil sump cover, surely use a light duty torque wrench, I am sure that the Volkswagon manual gives a setting for these nuts.
In Australia, Penrite has zinc additives. There's also some black bottle of oil that has zinc, forget the name though, Brad Penn I think. It was only useful due to the slack tolerances in early engine machining.
great video - thanks for taking the time. I use the same oil in my 2004 Land Rover and didn't think to use it in my beetle....
If you can hear the engine spinning over when you try to start it could need a tune up.Back in the day we used to put new points and condenser (which are inside the distributor) spring and fall.
He sounds like the family guy. Thanks for the vid
She sounds great. Thanks for the memories. I had a blue (used) '67.
Because they stop producing that cover on the later VWs with the drain plug to force people to drop the cover and clean the strainer.I wanted to show how you drain the oil without the center drain plug.
This is the most helpful video I have found; I learned so much! Thank you!!! :)
Why don't you grease the gaskets and strainer when you reassemble ?, I was told to grease them slightly to prevent seepage.
Ruski Ryan I was told the same thing.
Great video, I guess if the filter/strainer is changed then there' no need to remove the drain plug as you are taking the plate off anyway, saves breaking the seal and risking a leaking drain plug!.
If you drain pan is big enough there is no problem removing the bottom cover.
Good advice
A very informative video. I definitely learned a few more tips. But which wire was the one you removed /disconnected (Positive or negative) from the coil prior to turning over the motor?
I always disconnect the positive, I'm not sure if disconnecting the ground would even do anything because the distributor is grounded to the engine which is grounded to the frame anyhow so that would accomplish nothing
Hope you like the new intro.
That is a really nice orange! Fits the bug perfectly!
One of the few cars than can pull it off i think.
Maybe even the only car that can have a full orange paint job without looking ugly or obnoxious.
Its funny, yall take it out for the summer and here in the south we put ours up at the beginning of summer 😄😄😄
Smashing tutorial :-)
You have a loverly car, you must have put a lot of work into it, so clean and fresh looking :-)
Like the added oil filter and prefill, dam good idea :-)
Great video sir. Thank you for taking the time to make it. Nice bug too.
On the 12 volt beetle the voltage regulator is under the back seat on the drivers side.
Rich don't get oil all over your hands, Thanks for the vid, helps alot
you added in some parts that I didn't think of doing. thanks for the tip.
I like the idea of running the engine before you change, so that oil gets up to the top part of the engine and into micropassages. During restart there are bubbles in the lines and so oil delivery will always be poor at first, even if you disable the ignition. With oil already where it needs to be the damage to the engine on first startup is minimized.
The reason The engine is warmed up is to allow it to drain easier and quicker !
Rich, what is the bolt in the middle of that cover for? Is it for draining the oil before removing the screen cover? By the way... NICE BUG!! You should do a video about it. We'd like to see the rest of it.
Runs so sweetly. Would love to have one of these
The only thing I have ever found in the strainer is bits of cork from the valve cover gaskets. Clean the strainer every 3rd oil change. Vavoline 30 wt VR-1 is perfect for 30 to 100 degree climates. Lots of zinc in this oil which is needed. Do not put the whole 3 qts. in. 2.6 qts. only on a stock engine. Owners manual !!
Nice example there Rich- I see you have dual carbs so I assume you have bigger than 1600 cc there?
Interesting about the Rotella, so you can use diesel ol in air cooled then?? back in the day they used straight 30 weight
I had many bugs growing up and for winter transportation many years ago- most had the typical heater channel and floor board rust as I lived in MA, also the front ibeam was noted for rusting and I have even seen a few fail and you know what happens then - amazing the following that VW has now and the cost to restore-
You know when they were made their true purpose was to be one step above using a bus as VW commercials depict
anybody notice the shield pans are on backwards?
good vid
ENGINE TORQUE SPECS: 5 ft.-lbs - Oil strainer cover nuts :)
why not remove that centre bolt to drain the oil...?
Most did not have the center bolt so it was not removed because of habit.
richpin06a muito bom
SilentServiceCode No need if you are going to clean the strainer.
SilentServiceCode 71 vow gen wiring to
Love the new intros Richpin
Yes it is a drain plug but not all VWs had them.
Thank you for the video
Apart from not recommending A correct oil grade for the VW bug which should be a( 20-30 ),
according to my manual it was quite a useful video.
They recommended straight grade oil because multi viscosity oil wasn't very good when the older models were made. However in the 70s this changed and vw updated their recommendations to multi viscosity oil. The oil he used is correct.
Contamination in the oil from the combustion process makes the oil acidic and can lead to corrosion to engine components. I'd recommend switching to pre-storage oil change not post-storage. Storing 4stroke oil with CLEAN oil is a much better idea!!!
More,
I think that Diesel oil still has a good bit ZDDP in it, which was outlawed from regular oils. ZDDP is great for older non roller cam engines, but plays hell with catalytic converters on newer stuff.
See the ZDDP Wikipedia article for more, especially note the "Applications" heading of the article.
First of all, catalytic converters didn't appear until after the 1975 EPA mandates for non-leaded gas. So, ZDDP doesn't apply on the pre-1975 engines.
The newer diesel and high ZDDP oils have less ZDDP in them now, so it isn't much of an issue anymore. I ran Rotella T6 in my Miata and it didn't hurt the O2 sensors or cats at all. Times have changed. Note that classic car websites do offer higher ZDDP oils which would not apply in this conversation.
My wife's VW has 1 bolt and screw missing from the oil pan. Is it something it can live without? Or, how hard is it to find and put a new one in?
Only one question. Why didn´t you remove the drain plug in the center, to let the bulk of the oil drain before removing the plate?
I found that way much easier for me!
Force of habit over the years as the later ones had eliminated the drain bolt.
rich pin Oops, showing my age again!! I only ever owned Bugs with a drain plug!! I honestly did not know until recently how popular these cars are. I was always blown away with the SMELL of the Teutonic interior of all three of my cars, two bugs and a type 3 fastback.
I guess i am in the same boat as people that ride motorcycles we just try be careful and let the chips fall we they may.
Thank you so much for this great video! I am (for the first time) finishing this oil change procedure today on my 1965 transporter. I recently bought the van and I'm not sure what size engine is in it. The old oil strainer was clean when I removed it. BUT, the rivet was broken that held the little spool shaped receiver in place in the middle of the screen. So it was just loose. That looked like it could get sucked upward and try to block the oil pickup tube. SO, I ordered a new strainer and have it here. It looks the same EXCEPT it is 3/16 of an inch not as tall as the original one I removed. Does that difference matter? Are there different sizes? Thanks again.
What oil do you use
Stock
1600 dual port
Love the bug
Love your video! Your hilarious. Comedy genius.
t. kobylarz
I have a question. I would like to install an Oil Pressure Sender / Switch onto my 1969 Beetle. I'm unable to determine where it is to be installed. Can you help me?
nice n pretty and clean great video too. where do the hoses go from the oil filter and have or can you install a radiator like cooler?
If it had a radiator in it it would be an option, but there is no radiator in this vehicle, I need to find out about the hose connection myself so I can't help you with that
I gave up with all of this strainer nonsense years ago and I just use a topside oil extractor and extract the oil through the dipstick hole. (I always get 2.5 quarts out with the front end of the car angled up a bit). The strainer is just there to "keep the big hunks out" of the oil pickup and that's all. The strainer has nothing to do with filtering the oil. If you have a clogged strainer screen that needs to be cleaned, you have serious problems anyway.
Thanks
~ What's the purpose of the big nut in the middle?
People have told me that Quaker State oil is the best for VW engines, why do you think they say that?
Very helpful video! Thank you. I just bought my first bug. What kind of exhaust do you have?
I fabed my own exhaust with a mini turbo muffler.
hi Rich.. were they new gaskets for the oil "strainer" or did you just clean up the original ones?
2) how big of a job is it to install external filter... and what about external oil cooler?
GroupMax1000 I always use new gaskets and washers which are in the kit.The remote filter like mine is quite involved because you have to drill and tap the engine case.They do have one that is less work which replaces the oil pump cover.I left my oil cooler stock but they have remote ones for that also.
I used a Thrush Turbo Muffler 17711 with 2" pipes.
When you're cleaning the strainer does it matter whether the brake cleaner is non-chlorinated or not? And same question applies to actually cleaning up brakes on an old VW
Very helpful video, i'll need to replace oil soon
Which oil filter better to add yours or the one you mount on firewall
Hi , I have a 1200 cc beetle 1971 petrol, is it advisable to use diesel oil did you say?
I did not know that, thank you.
I do have one on my channel somewhere.
My baby is a 1970 Beetle Sedan. It's my dream car. I'm having a bit of trouble with him at the moment though, he isn't starting up... I checked out the alternator and that isn't the issue. I also checked the oil as well as the air filter but it's all clean. It's most likely the battery, but I just wasn't sure. The guy I bought it from said it was a brand new battery. Do you recommend anything else I should check out before purchasing a new battery? I'm not an expert like you, but I'm learning!!!
Katya Harmel My guess is the starter. If it has sat at all, it can get stuck in places. Try tapping the starter, and then turn the key. My beetle sat for quite a while and occasionally the starter sticks on it. But tapping it never fails.
great video Rich, i own a 75 thing, pretty good condition, i've restored it somewhat. not as beautiful as your bug but good non the less. regards, from Monterrey Mexico.
The things are a nice little car.
Thank you i will check that out.
Was there a reason why you didn't just unscrew the big bolt first instead of all the smallest ones? So all the oil can come off and then take the cover off.
Force of habit because all later vws had no center bolt in the cover.
Why didn't you use the oil drain bolt in the filter cover?
very nice car, and video as usual :^) First time I've seen the fancy intro
Thats excellent advise about cranking the engine sans ignition till you get oil pressure. Especially if it's an engine you really care about, and/or it's been sitting for an extended period. If you really want to be anal, pull the plugs as well.
Whenever possible after engine rebuilds, I like to run oil pumps with a home made drive shaft and the electric drill... long enough to develop pressure, and throughly purge the bubbles out of all the bearings. You have to really hang onto the drill too!
Why is there an oil drain plug in the center if no one uses it, I asked that because I've watched several of these videos and everyone just undoes the pattern around the edge to remove the cover, letting the oil drain all around it, so what was the point of the drain plug initially?
No one uses the drain plug because you have to remove the plate to clean the sludge on top of the plate and replace the screen.
@@RichpinTv you answered the wrong question but thanks anyway, I asked why is it there if no one uses it, I can think of several reasons but I just wanted to hear what other people said, thank you for your answer.
Thank you
Can you do a video on just your bug alone? The car looks sweet just from that only angle we see.
If I don't have access to Rotella T can I use regular Delo 400 instead or is Delo too thick? Thanks for the video, I feel much more confident in changing the oil in my bug.
I did not know about Delo 400 so i did a little checking www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=561874
I thought diesel runs cooler hence the need to run rich to heat them up for a DPF regen.
Damn that's a thick oil to run in such a little engine, but then again I always figured these babys just used straight 30 weight if you didn't have an oil filter.
Why do you have plastic all around your garage furniture?
What oil best 10-30 10-40 what
Keep the bug spirit alive.
What year is your vw.
Hi , I can do this in my vanagon aircooled engine ?
Hello, what oil are u running for the oil change? Thanks. I got a dp1600 1973 beetle
im starting to use the Bardahl 20w-50
Torque spec for the cap nuts is 5 ft/lbs. Do it right...use a quarter inch drive torque wrench. Guessing risks leaks, or worse, stripped studs.
As far as i know the only difference between the two is non-chlorinated is environment friendly.
Excellent informative video
Glad you liked it
nice looken car, good info. thanks for the video.
Maybe I'm new to VW's, but it appears your brake bleeder (wheel cylinder) is on the bottom of your backing plate at the 8:57 mark. Shouldn't these be on the top?!? It is on my VW. How do you get the air out of the brake system? Is this some cool new improvement that I don't know about?
The old vws (1956) are a different beast.
I am still thinking.
Great Beetle!
what is the reason behind unplugging the coil, turning it over and having the oil light come on?
The reason is that oil will be at the bearings when the engines starts which puts much more load on them when running.
You will also "suspend" the contaminants in the oil so when you drain the bad parts will come out.
Great Video. Thanks
Opps that was 17702 on the muffler.
still trying to find out where the oil filter that was filled is going to go?
I have it mounted on the left fender bracket.
Did beetles have an oil filter from factory? I can't spot a filter in mine.
Vw called it a strainer located under the round cover.
@@RichpinTv alright i got it. Thank you!
I drove one season 1000 miles.
You do know what that plug in the center of the sump plate is for, correct?
Vw eliminated the center plug on the later ones.I presume they did it because people were only removing the center plug when doing there oil changes and not removing the whole plate to clean the screen underneath.
That makes sense. Just definitely less messy to drain the oil through the center plug first (if equipped) and then remove the plate to clean / replace the screen. Cheers!
That is the main reason for original oil changes every 2.500 Km: 2 & 1/2 liters are cheap, throws away the dirt & since quick temperature changes, disrupt the oil molecule in an air cooled engine FASTER & SOONER than on watter cooled vehicles, new lubricant has a fresh molecule. Remember that the OiL COOLER cicle starts with HOT oil & COOLS it before lubricating the engine parts. We say "air cooled", but 75% of the engine is cooled by oil.
Would you happen to know how to clean a 1967 beetle oil bath air filter ??
need help fast.
I believe you just change the oil in the bottom of the housing but i will check on that.
I'm have same problem and change voltage regulator and its fixes expend only. 35 box
Hi Rich if my Oil strainer cover nuts are broken and dont tighten anymore, do I just need to buy new nuts for it?
I have seen this a lot were the threads in the nuts are worn away.In most cases the studs are in good shape.You have to be very carefully not to over tighten those nuts.
hi rich I have a Volkswagen with the same engine but it wount start without using starter fluid do you know what could be wrong?
+mrpopo860 Look down the carburetor open and close the throttle there should be fuel that come out the nozzle from the accelerator pump.
+richpin06a thank you
Double check you valve timing while monitoring the distributor's rotor positon.
It is similar but not the same.
At 07:57, how much oil did you pour into the filter? Did you fill it completely?
I think about 3/4 quart fills it up totally.
great help !
Hi rich, I just bought a 1972 Kafer, but I cant find a new oil filter to buy for it here in Georgia. Is it okay to wash the old oil filter and use it?
+arya givehchian I have cleaned and reused the oil strainers with no problem.
+richpin06a Thank you.
+richpin06a Thank you