If you need to touch up around the eye, do you start from dark purple again and work back up to the light green, then glaze flesh tone? When do you recommend painting eyes soon 32 mm models?
Usually you stick to the darker colors for touching up around the eyes first, since you are shadowed by the brow, but for the lower lid, you can just jump to midtones, unless you get crazy with the white of the eye and get brighter paint out of line. We usually paint eyes early, then paint around them with the flesh tones, but that all depends on the sculpt.
@@KerfluffinMcWoolyyou can, but sometimes there's not enough space for the burgundy to really show without it looking like makeup. You can do the eyeball and then a diluted drop of wash to give the color around the sclera.
if i actually painted like i did 10 years ago, i would invest heavily into the entire pro acryl line, but my schemes nowadays tend to be quick and easy that i only keep ivory and white pro acryl in my pile of paints. hands down the best i've ever used.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am a total beginner in this hobby and would like to use this method for orc skin. You used green as a second layer in your reddish skin example. If I want to go with four colors again, starting with dark purple, what color order and dilution would you recommend for a relatively dark green skin tone?@@MonumentHobbies
I know this is a year old but you mentioned using blue to shadow purple. If I want a purple skin tone do I stick with green or switch it out? I have a bunch of your paints coming and devouring these videos, good stuff here!
IAwesome technique. I'm going to try this. f you wanted a less ruddy skintone would you change the wash to something like shadowflesh and use a lighter green/yellow or would you approach it differently?
I would say go lighter with the skin tone for the final layers and push some of the purple further into the shadows with the green and base skin layers.
You can use this on larger surfaces for sure, but you'll want to make sure you're still focused on covering each area completely with each coat, because the "coffee staining" can happen easier, due to so much space between details. Just take your time and be patient with the layering.
Not a prerequisite by any means, but you do need a good, matte base to start from with any glazing, as the thin paints needs better tooth underneath to gain that initial traction. A lot of rattle can "matte" primers are actually very satin and form a more slick surface. You can do a matte varnish over them to get the tooth back though.
Purple shadows are THE best - favorite new thing I started doing
I had the same realization not too long ago! That and also using Payne's Gray through an airbrush are just amazing for shadows for many colors!
Love me some slowfuse tutorials in the morning! Always love the insights and techniques you share.
If you need to touch up around the eye, do you start from dark purple again and work back up to the light green, then glaze flesh tone? When do you recommend painting eyes soon 32 mm models?
Usually you stick to the darker colors for touching up around the eyes first, since you are shadowed by the brow, but for the lower lid, you can just jump to midtones, unless you get crazy with the white of the eye and get brighter paint out of line. We usually paint eyes early, then paint around them with the flesh tones, but that all depends on the sculpt.
When painting eyes on 32 mm models, do you paint the burgundy band and then do the eyes?
@@KerfluffinMcWoolyyou can, but sometimes there's not enough space for the burgundy to really show without it looking like makeup. You can do the eyeball and then a diluted drop of wash to give the color around the sclera.
if i actually painted like i did 10 years ago, i would invest heavily into the entire pro acryl line, but my schemes nowadays tend to be quick and easy that i only keep ivory and white pro acryl in my pile of paints. hands down the best i've ever used.
We do quick and easy better than anyone!
I love this tutorial. I definitely will try this. Could you please tell me what colors to use for a green skin (orc or goblin)?
Depending on the type of Green you want, starting with Black Green is a great way, then go to Green, and finish with Bright Yellow Green highlights.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am a total beginner in this hobby and would like to use this method for orc skin. You used green as a second layer in your reddish skin example. If I want to go with four colors again, starting with dark purple, what color order and dilution would you recommend for a relatively dark green skin tone?@@MonumentHobbies
That intro would make for a good stand alone commercial
I know this is a year old but you mentioned using blue to shadow purple. If I want a purple skin tone do I stick with green or switch it out? I have a bunch of your paints coming and devouring these videos, good stuff here!
IAwesome technique. I'm going to try this. f you wanted a less ruddy skintone would you change the wash to something like shadowflesh and use a lighter green/yellow or would you approach it differently?
I would say go lighter with the skin tone for the final layers and push some of the purple further into the shadows with the green and base skin layers.
Another great tutorial. The dark flesh wash/glaze, is it 3:1 or 2:1 medium to paint?
More like 3:1 Don't be afraid to use a bunch and then add paint back to get the opacity you like.
Do you recommend this same process for large (1/4 scale) models?
You can use this on larger surfaces for sure, but you'll want to make sure you're still focused on covering each area completely with each coat, because the "coffee staining" can happen easier, due to so much space between details. Just take your time and be patient with the layering.
Awesome. Thank you very much.
the glaze beads off when cut to the degree illustrated. I am using vallejo and citadel primers - are pro-acryl primers a prerequisite?
Not a prerequisite by any means, but you do need a good, matte base to start from with any glazing, as the thin paints needs better tooth underneath to gain that initial traction. A lot of rattle can "matte" primers are actually very satin and form a more slick surface. You can do a matte varnish over them to get the tooth back though.