When you have a spongy brake pedal, the two most common problems besides air in the lines are stuck slide pins and a faulty ABS hydraulic control unit. You should first check codes, but one way to test the HCU is pull all ABS fuses usually two just to be sure. The transmission may not shift correctly but you can ride around long enough to see if proper brake pedal feel and normal braking has been restored. Why you are having problems is you are still guessing and not properly diagnosing and proving what the problem is. Like ScannerDanner says, test don't guess. You can physically check the caliper slide pins. Almost everything on cars today starts with the scan tool and your ability to diagnose the problem by proving what is actually wrong before replacing any parts. There is always a way to test for a problem. When you fire the parts cannon without proving what's wrong first, this is just gambling and throwing money away.
Former 20 yr tech here, who worked for Ford for a bit. On the Ford Edge models especially, the ABS modules would go out a lot causing bad brake pedal issues. If you don't have a dealer scan tool that can run a test on it, they're almost impossible to diagnose. And talk about getting down into a difficult place to some of them. Wouldn't surprise me at all if Mazda shared their same issues. Keep after it and appreciate your channel
Count your blessings. You don't work on Northeast cars where, no matter how well you plan, you're find that one critical bolt that snaps or stays rusted in place.
If you have identifix that’s a good place to start. Get a look at what other mechanics have experienced and how they fixed it. Anything with ABS short of obvious visual leaks is immediately where I’m going. You can isolate a vacuum booster and you can bench test a master cylinder. Hopefully that’ll help you in the future. Start with the basics.
Usually if the master is leaking into the cabin plan on doing a booster along with the master the booster isnt suppose to have brake fluid in it...also with bleeders in my area heat them up before you crack them loose to prevent them from stripping out. Great video keep up the good work
Keep in mind that the other very common cause of oil on the alternator on those Hondas is that front spool valve. They actually leak more than the valve cover gaskets.
I think you can also diagnose a bad booster (which should cause a vacuum leak) by checking fuel trims at idle and seeing if they improve with rpm. Then, plug the line to the booster and see if fuel trims improve.
Rando question, can you accurately test if a battery is good if it’s not in a vehicle. I charged my battery and it says it’s all charged up however the jeep renegade won’t start. Even tried jumping it , no dice. Thinking about taking the battery to Napa to test it but I can’t move my car so thought I would remove it and take it down there.
Earnest, What you need is a WHEEL of MISFORTUNE. Like the wheel of fortune but each place on the wheel is a car problem. Whenever you encounter a car which you cant quite figure out, you give the wheel a spin and do what it says on the wheel when it comes to a stop. !
That throttle body gasket is a biaaatch if it’s old and stuck to the intake. This is a job I’ve done on my car multiple times. This is not a quick job. I would tell them I need 3-4 hours. To do it correctly. Sure you can rush it and miss things. I’ve seen dealerships do this job and the aftermath is a nightmare.
Complex issues I typically hit forums very early. The only thing I think you could have done better is to have visited that sight sooner. Other than that you progressed through the issue had most people should especially since abs modules are not cheap
How would tgat in law brake job have worked if a regular customer? First youd quote pads and rotirs which they would agreed to. Then youd need to hit them up for a master cylendar which then didnt expect and need more $ for. then you’d tell them its booster and bleeders again not planned for so more $. Then an ABS module. How would you handle a customer if they might get upset for unexpected charge after charge after charge?
If you have identifix that’s a good place to start. Get a look at what other mechanics have experienced and how they fixed it. Anything with ABS short of obvious visual leaks is immediately where I’m going. You can isolate a vacuum booster and you can bench test a master cylinder. Hopefully that’ll help you in the future. Start with the basics.
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It happens to us all brother. Dont let it get you down. You rock Ernest. God bless you and your family.
When you have a spongy brake pedal, the two most common problems besides air in the lines are stuck slide pins and a faulty ABS hydraulic control unit.
You should first check codes, but one way to test the HCU is pull all ABS fuses usually two just to be sure. The transmission may not shift correctly but you can ride around long enough to see if proper brake pedal feel and normal braking has been restored.
Why you are having problems is you are still guessing and not properly diagnosing and proving what the problem is. Like ScannerDanner says, test don't guess.
You can physically check the caliper slide pins.
Almost everything on cars today starts with the scan tool and your ability to diagnose the problem by proving what is actually wrong before replacing any parts. There is always a way to test for a problem.
When you fire the parts cannon without proving what's wrong first, this is just gambling and throwing money away.
Some of my worse days in my life are attributed to working on cars. But it’s a good feeling once it gets fixed
Former 20 yr tech here, who worked for Ford for a bit. On the Ford Edge models especially, the ABS modules would go out a lot causing bad brake pedal issues. If you don't have a dealer scan tool that can run a test on it, they're almost impossible to diagnose. And talk about getting down into a difficult place to some of them.
Wouldn't surprise me at all if Mazda shared their same issues.
Keep after it and appreciate your channel
Count your blessings. You don't work on Northeast cars where, no matter how well you plan, you're find that one critical bolt that snaps or stays rusted in place.
It happens to all of us. Just keep moving forward it will make you stronger.
Another great roadside rescue video, great job.
Thanks again!
If you have identifix that’s a good place to start. Get a look at what other mechanics have experienced and how they fixed it. Anything with ABS short of obvious visual leaks is immediately where I’m going. You can isolate a vacuum booster and you can bench test a master cylinder. Hopefully that’ll help you in the future. Start with the basics.
Usually if the master is leaking into the cabin plan on doing a booster along with the master the booster isnt suppose to have brake fluid in it...also with bleeders in my area heat them up before you crack them loose to prevent them from stripping out. Great video keep up the good work
Keep in mind that the other very common cause of oil on the alternator on those Hondas is that front spool valve. They actually leak more than the valve cover gaskets.
ya I did both anyways!
Charge by the job not your time and charge a minimum just to look.
I think you can also diagnose a bad booster (which should cause a vacuum leak) by checking fuel trims at idle and seeing if they improve with rpm. Then, plug the line to the booster and see if fuel trims improve.
Rando question, can you accurately test if a battery is good if it’s not in a vehicle. I charged my battery and it says it’s all charged up however the jeep renegade won’t start. Even tried jumping it ,
no dice.
Thinking about taking the battery to Napa to test it but I can’t move my car so thought I would remove it and take it down there.
Did you run a ABS pump bleed on your scan tool?
Earnest,
What you need is a WHEEL of MISFORTUNE. Like the wheel of fortune but
each place on the wheel is a car problem. Whenever you encounter a car
which you cant quite figure out, you give the wheel a spin and do what it
says on the wheel when it comes to a stop.
!
That throttle body gasket is a biaaatch if it’s old and stuck to the intake. This is a job I’ve done on my car multiple times. This is not a quick job. I would tell them I need 3-4 hours. To do it correctly. Sure you can rush it and miss things. I’ve seen dealerships do this job and the aftermath is a nightmare.
see the white vette is gone in this video.
Complex issues I typically hit forums very early. The only thing I think you could have done better is to have visited that sight sooner. Other than that you progressed through the issue had most people should especially since abs modules are not cheap
What was the metal cover you removed from the middle of the engine?
In emergency situations, can this Jump Starter quickly start a high-displacement engine?
How did you fix the ABS weak peddle issue in the end?
it was the abs module, guessing the leak started and then that issue poped up right after
@@RoadsideRescue Did you use the Bleeding Air from ABS special function on you scanner?
What socket set is that you using
Same model jump pack
what is that thing behind you with the hood up , what is that !
hell of a beard there
How do you use a coupon code with your affiliate Amazon power jumper purchase, how does that work?
got to work with the seller
which transmission fluid do u recommend for an older camry...type IV or toyota ws...whats the difference
Valvoline high mileage max life type lv
you need to charge more ..
How would tgat in law brake job have worked if a regular customer? First youd quote pads and rotirs which they would agreed to. Then youd need to hit them up for a master cylendar which then didnt expect and need more $ for. then you’d tell them its booster and bleeders again not planned for so more $. Then an ABS module. How would you handle a customer if they might get upset for unexpected charge after charge after charge?
would have been a headache. I would have discounted most to apease anything
tough
You need to go to tech school.
Had almost the exact same issue on a Toyota solara. Frustrating! 🫠
If you have identifix that’s a good place to start. Get a look at what other mechanics have experienced and how they fixed it. Anything with ABS short of obvious visual leaks is immediately where I’m going. You can isolate a vacuum booster and you can bench test a master cylinder. Hopefully that’ll help you in the future. Start with the basics.