Neil, you great! Thank you. Your “improve your climbing “ is my favorite video! I share it all my friends. Many climbers in Russia grow up with your support!
For those of you interested by impressive climbing progression (6b->7b) with more focus on the fear of falling and climbing spirit rather than just going hard for the sake of the grade only, I really recommend to you the 3-video series by "Hard is Easy". Here is the first one: th-cam.com/video/27P4My6ItqE/w-d-xo.html
Nice one, cannot wait to see Ben's progression! Even more so as a climber myself, quite new to this wonderful sports (but really hooked and passionate) and currently somewhere at 6a to 6b depending on whether the route fits me (indoor only up until now though), I can hardly await the next episode....when can we expect it? ;)
Great to see Neil again doing this - I've been on a coached climbing trip with him and Adrian Berry. Incidentally Steve McClure and Leah Crane (then just a teen) were also with us. Good times. And yeah, Neil still looks the same :)
I hope we will see some of the exercises, as this is where I think I lack. Did hit a plateau myself at 6C now (indoor boulder). Outdoor, 6c is my project level...
Stoked to follow this series . Ive sent a couple v6 and few more v5 and can onsight v4 sometimes. Really wanna push my grade to v7 v8. Going tonsee how i can adjust my training through your experience.
I always was a mediocre climber. Then I climbed outdoor once. Love on first sight. Making love to the rock instead of yanking on plastic. Became a full time bohemian climbing hobo student. Went from 6b to 8b+
I'm a little late to the party here... But this is why I came to the comments section- I believe the first hang is on 20mm on a Beastmaker 1000, followed by the 15mm edges of a Beastmaker 2000. Taking on board Neil's explanation and caveats at the beginning of the finger strength assessment, it was a refreshing surprise that he was mainly just looking for a 10sec 2 arm bodyweight hang on 20mm and anything more was a bonus. Searching for fingerboard benchmarks online/reddit/lattice training etc would suggest you should doing a 2 arm max hangs with added weight to be able to climb 7a/7b.
I went from 6b to 7b (red point) 7 years ago with an intense 3 month training. 2 boulder days 2 endurance days 1 or 2 climbing on weekends. It can be done by anybody.
Neil definitely knows his stuff but do not under estimate the massive benefit of having a belayer (Neil) who is willing (because paid) to belay you on your projects for hours and hours. I don't think that many climbers have that which makes it hard to work a project and you end up mostly trying to onsight or give it a few tries max.
Working on a project for hours is boring anyway. I always wonder if it even helps you to become a better climber or if it would be better to climb a lot of routes which are only slightly above your ability (i.e. doable after 2 or 3 tries).
Michael K Personal preference I guess. I’ve done projecting a few times. But I also enjoy the thrill of an onsight attempt. Good question. I think I would tend to agree with you on that. But projects also have their time and place. If you’re always projecting than I would guess you make less progress. But periods of training and then a few days of projecting might be a good mix.
@@misterx2133 unfortunately it gets to a point though where it takes a lot of projecting to climb harder routes. Kind of necessary if you want to up your max
"you'll be using a clipstick to get to the top of the route". who is he climbing with?? I use my clipstick to clip first so I don't hit the deck but if I have to clipstick my way to the top of something then I shouldn't be. on it!
Always depends on your approach. If you want to check out all the moves of a route without wasting energy, you stick-clip your way up, and then go for the red point attempt still fresh because you didn't waste all your energy trying to "onsight" all the hard sections. If the climber then does it second go, do you still tell them they shouldn't be on it?
There seems to be a lot of that nowadays, After retuning from a break from climbing I’ve noticed a load of climbers training super hard in the gym, weighted fingerboard, campusing etc etc and they look like they should be climbing v10 but they get on the wall and if they can’t muscle up a problem they’re lost. Don’t get me wrong it’s awesome to see people really putting the effort in but I think alot of newish climbers are too keen just to get strong and they actually forget to learn how to climb first. It’s probably down to all the Instagram vids of people doing 1 armed pull-ups etc. I’ve never been a strong climber, never did pull ups or finger boards I just climbed and maybe a bit of a woody session before a trip (even then I was wayyy weaker then everyone I climbed with) but I still managed to get to 7B outdoors. But now I am back I intend to add strength to my climbing so will hopefully come back stronger and fitter 💪
@@TobyClimbs You said it, after one year of bouldering you climbed 7a. I dont get the 2 weeks.? Also climbing one 7a route does not make you a 7a climber, not even a 6C climber cause it is likely you will fail climbing so many routes of that grade. Not to mention that grading can be on the soft side so you may think you climb that hard until you get on a benchmark of the grade. For example can you climb 7a bench on the moonboard? And even if you succeed it doesnt really matter cause your tendons will not be ready for the stress and sooner or later you ll end up injured...
I think that's the wrong takeaway. It was more, "I don't think finger strength will be a limiting factor for this particular climber to be able to go from 6c to 7b in 4 months with a dedicated training program"
@@YiZongOng Maybe i didn't climb outdoor enough ^^ Because the 7bs i tried indoor where steep on super small hold and required a lot more strength than this
4 ปีที่แล้ว
people caring about numbers instead enjoying the process... sad :(
Neil is without a doubt the youngest old guy i've ever seen in my entire life. He's like perpetually the strongest 22 year old you've ever met.
How old is he?
"are your quickdraws upside down??" 🤦♀️Haha.
Looks like a super series!
Neil, you great! Thank you. Your “improve your climbing “ is my favorite video! I share it all my friends. Many climbers in Russia grow up with your support!
1:02 That fall in the background :D
For those of you interested by impressive climbing progression (6b->7b) with more focus on the fear of falling and climbing spirit rather than just going hard for the sake of the grade only, I really recommend to you the 3-video series by "Hard is Easy". Here is the first one: th-cam.com/video/27P4My6ItqE/w-d-xo.html
Agree. A great series 👍
+1 he has some older videos on the topic that are good too!
@@katieweiher They are unfortunately deleted by now (war of roses..).
Nice one, cannot wait to see Ben's progression! Even more so as a climber myself, quite new to this wonderful sports (but really hooked and passionate) and currently somewhere at 6a to 6b depending on whether the route fits me (indoor only up until now though), I can hardly await the next episode....when can we expect it? ;)
Next Tuesday, thanks watching, and good luck with your climbing 💪
So helpful! just done one of Neil's masterclasses this week, warming up off the wall is so important but so rare you see folk do it! :-)
Great episode, hooked for the next one!
Great to see Neil again doing this - I've been on a coached climbing trip with him and Adrian Berry. Incidentally Steve McClure and Leah Crane (then just a teen) were also with us. Good times. And yeah, Neil still looks the same :)
Cannot wait for the next episode. Cracking job guys! #gobenjamin ;)
Awesome tips about antagonist work and injury prevention at 9:00
I hope we will see some of the exercises, as this is where I think I lack. Did hit a plateau myself at 6C now (indoor boulder). Outdoor, 6c is my project level...
looks like a great series cant wait
Stoked to follow this series . Ive sent a couple v6 and few more v5 and can onsight v4 sometimes. Really wanna push my grade to v7 v8. Going tonsee how i can adjust my training through your experience.
I always was a mediocre climber. Then I climbed outdoor once. Love on first sight. Making love to the rock instead of yanking on plastic. Became a full time bohemian climbing hobo student. Went from 6b to 8b+
Good stuff, but where is the part about the fear of falling?
I wondered the same!
Trust me, we get to that later on ;)
A bit of click bait never hurt no TH-cam video ...
love it already.
how deep are those two holds where the guy is being tested? at 4:58
I'm a little late to the party here...
But this is why I came to the comments section- I believe the first hang is on 20mm on a Beastmaker 1000, followed by the 15mm edges of a Beastmaker 2000.
Taking on board Neil's explanation and caveats at the beginning of the finger strength assessment, it was a refreshing surprise that he was mainly just looking for a 10sec 2 arm bodyweight hang on 20mm and anything more was a bonus. Searching for fingerboard benchmarks online/reddit/lattice training etc would suggest you should doing a 2 arm max hangs with added weight to be able to climb 7a/7b.
I went from 6b to 7b (red point) 7 years ago with an intense 3 month training.
2 boulder days
2 endurance days
1 or 2 climbing on weekends.
It can be done by anybody.
This man gone be do this for sure
Oh damn I thought this had something to do with Hard is Easy's videos and got excited for another collab
Lol same
They did a collab before? Do you have the link?
Excellent video
thanks for great video Neil !!! BUT PLEASE stabilise your cameraman ))) difficult to watch at some points of the video
Great video. Also am I the only one that noticed he looks like aquaman (from the comics) haha
Inspiring!
Is that from 6c indoor to 7b outdoor? That's quite a jump! I climb a whole number easier outdoors for different reasons.
When is the next episode coming out?
Wow I love these
Noyce!
Neil definitely knows his stuff but do not under estimate the massive benefit of having a belayer (Neil) who is willing (because paid) to belay you on your projects for hours and hours. I don't think that many climbers have that which makes it hard to work a project and you end up mostly trying to onsight or give it a few tries max.
Working on a project for hours is boring anyway. I always wonder if it even helps you to become a better climber or if it would be better to climb a lot of routes which are only slightly above your ability (i.e. doable after 2 or 3 tries).
Michael K Personal preference I guess. I’ve done projecting a few times. But I also enjoy the thrill of an onsight attempt. Good question. I think I would tend to agree with you on that. But projects also have their time and place. If you’re always projecting than I would guess you make less progress. But periods of training and then a few days of projecting might be a good mix.
@@misterx2133 unfortunately it gets to a point though where it takes a lot of projecting to climb harder routes. Kind of necessary if you want to up your max
That's why people project together. Partners should have no problem belaying each other for a few hours back and forth
Rob Watson Interesting. Is that from observation or did you read about it? And at what grade do you think that applies?
Really cool and interesting kind of series, congrats guys!
By the way, these gym gradings are a joke...
How long has he climbed to get to level 6b?
I have been climbing for about 2 and a half years :)
yes he can
Great idea for a program.
GRESHAY
En Suesca no lo creo jajaja
Heavyset guy for being a rock climber.
I'm glad somebody finally appreciated this... it's not easy pulling yourself up this stuff when you aren't exactly light!
@@bencannon8792 You can get wayyy more technical. I'm surprised you could get up 6cs with this ;)
Lol I just get on and thrash.
"you'll be using a clipstick to get to the top of the route". who is he climbing with?? I use my clipstick to clip first so I don't hit the deck but if I have to clipstick my way to the top of something then I shouldn't be. on it!
Maybe you'd be climbing harder if you did.
Lol he's Neil Gresham, if he's clipping his way to the top, maybe you should be too.
Always depends on your approach. If you want to check out all the moves of a route without wasting energy, you stick-clip your way up, and then go for the red point attempt still fresh because you didn't waste all your energy trying to "onsight" all the hard sections.
If the climber then does it second go, do you still tell them they shouldn't be on it?
8:40 "I'm gonna give you 50/50". Well duh. It's either "Yes, he will climb a 7b at the end of the 4 months" or "No, he won't", so 50/50 yes or no.
I'm a novice and I can even tell that Ben has a lot of technique issues and has somehow muscled his way to a 6C boulder grade.
There seems to be a lot of that nowadays, After retuning from a break from climbing I’ve noticed a load of climbers training super hard in the gym, weighted fingerboard, campusing etc etc and they look like they should be climbing v10 but they get on the wall and if they can’t muscle up a problem they’re lost. Don’t get me wrong it’s awesome to see people really putting the effort in but I think alot of newish climbers are too keen just to get strong and they actually forget to learn how to climb first. It’s probably down to all the Instagram vids of people doing 1 armed pull-ups etc. I’ve never been a strong climber, never did pull ups or finger boards I just climbed and maybe a bit of a woody session before a trip (even then I was wayyy weaker then everyone I climbed with) but I still managed to get to 7B outdoors.
But now I am back I intend to add strength to my climbing so will hopefully come back stronger and fitter 💪
7:15 very bad belaying tecnique
The answer is NO. And before watching the video...
I think id say yes and easily. After a year of bouldering I went from 6a to 7a 2 weeks
@@TobyClimbs You said it, after one year of bouldering you climbed 7a. I dont get the 2 weeks.? Also climbing one 7a route does not make you a 7a climber, not even a 6C climber cause it is likely you will fail climbing so many routes of that grade. Not to mention that grading can be on the soft side so you may think you climb that hard until you get on a benchmark of the grade. For example can you climb 7a bench on the moonboard? And even if you succeed it doesnt really matter cause your tendons will not be ready for the stress and sooner or later you ll end up injured...
I'll save you the time
Probably not
you can climb 7b if you can hang the beastmaker 1000 for 10s?? I could do that when i climbed 6a x)
I think that's the wrong takeaway. It was more, "I don't think finger strength will be a limiting factor for this particular climber to be able to go from 6c to 7b in 4 months with a dedicated training program"
did you not hear what Neil said at all before the fingerboard section??
@@YiZongOng Yes i heard i meant that i'm shocked that with that little finger strength it already isn't a limiting factor
@@YiZongOng Maybe i didn't climb outdoor enough ^^ Because the 7bs i tried indoor where steep on super small hold and required a lot more strength than this
people caring about numbers instead enjoying the process... sad :(
Just to flex😆 I got from 6a to 7b+ in 3 months
Markus Sojakka where’s you’re video of proof?
@@ryannicholson1118 Of corse I am not a real climber yet. I haven't even been outside climbing and I still use rental shoes.
the acid test!? 😆🪦
episode 2 (the finale) by the sounds of Neil's optimism lol.