How to fine tune your Recurve Bow! (From Billet to Bow #3)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2020
- In this last video out of the three I made while staying in Salt Lake City to visit Hoyt Archery, we talk about finetuning, how Douglas Denton, the engineer of Hoyt, does it, and what the order of work is. We hope you were able to learn something from watching these last three videos and that you enjoyed watching them too!
Haven't seen them yet? Check them out here:
Part 1 (Making and assembling the bow): • Building my Hoyt Formu...
Part 2 (Setting up and basic tune): • Complete guide to sett...
Want to see more of our endeavours?
Find us on social media:
/ tripletroublearchery
/ tripletroublearchery
/ gijsbroeksma
/ thejaapbolt
/ sjef1440
/ bybolt1
/ vandenbergsjef
/ gijsbroeksmaarchery - กีฬา
![Archery Target Panic [How to Fix it in 3 Steps] - Triple Trouble Archery](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/37RiLEVHpcs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Archery Target Panic [How to Fix it in 3 Steps] - Triple Trouble Archery](/img/tr.png)
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Playoffs - Grand Finals // GEN vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HL-hhLrtctw/mqdefault.jpg)
Doug Denton is a real treasure to the recurve nation. Great information here. Thank you both.
Rick Mansberger
Redmond Sports Group
I really love this channel, I stopped archery 14 years ago, now I'm doing it again and this videos has been a great help!! Keep with the great work, really appreciatted.
This was verry interesting.
Luckily I dont have to go through the fine tuning since my bow is not the weak link in my shooting 😀
Miky Schuster 😂😂😂 perfect
Yes, agree 100%. I am always impressed with the shooting of elite archers like Sjef but the fine tuning at 70 meters for me is difficult. My form and consistency needs improvement i.e. I'm far from an elite archer.
Incredible how advanced the fine-tuning process is. Can't wait for the clubs to open again to start fine tuning my bow ;) I'd be very interested in a Tiller video as well!
Great tips! Thank You both!
Thanks guys. Great series 👍
Thanks guys I wish that you have added pictures for the items or things you are talking about for tuning since most of the one who is following these kind of videos are new to archery or may also not an English speaking. So pictures explain better. Thanks again
I love playing and trying to get it better good vid chaps
Thx a lot. I learned a lot with that video series. GL on the Olympics!
I noticed the BE bag. Way to rep him! Good luck to both of you in Japan!
Very informative.
Thanks.
Great content. Thanks for that!!
Very informative video!!!!
thank you so much~! good job,it's give me some good idears.
Perfect video thank you
Very helpful..thank you so much ❤
Fantastic series! Thank you. Just for the heck of it, what does that full rig (or similar) go for? Thanks
thank you for all the help you have given me with all these tuning videos
Thank you so much for The details of fine tuning!
It seems that we should have good enough skill and grouping before fine tuning,
or we can hardly adjust The results....... orz
In regards to adjusting nock point or plunger first, I've always been told it's best to adjust the nocking point first as it has a tendency to affect horizontal arrow placement.
Thank you so much! It was really helpful.
Would you please make a video about customize the grip?
I'm not brave enough to do it...
Go and see Jake Kaminskis video, he made two about grip customization, they are great !!
Wish there was a expo day where I could try and get expert advice on my personal setups.
Nice to see is a fellow leftie...🎯🎯🎯
although this series contents of ad, but it is still AWESOME!
Hi Sief, what do you think about the "walking-back test" for tuning the plunger? Do you think this is superfluous?
I'd always heard to err on the side of too stiff an arrow. You're saying you prefer slightly weak arrows. Is this just preference? Or is this common practice? Great video.
I noticed you have tape on your blankshaft. Is that necessary for weight or is it okay to shoot without it? Thanks for the video guys
Also, do you do walk-back tuning for plunger/center shot adjustment, or just this 30m trial and error method?
Hi Sjef, When you say a weak arrow setup, do you mean you use an arrow with a weaker spine based on your draw weight and arrow length or do you mean just a weak plunger setting?
@2:21 10-11mm measured how? From 0 line to bottom of the nock or top?
@4:10 What kind of thread are you using?
Hi Sjef! Big fan here. I'd like to know what initial setting do you use on the plunger button when you calibrate the arrows by modifying the weight of the limbs? I have heard from people who put it in "middle" position, but having so many springs, that seems very subjective. What setting do you use in this first calibration?
I use the medium spring and put it at setting 5 in the Beiter plunger
Hi Sjef, @10:35 it is mentioned that a 1/4 - 1/2 "LESS" cushion plunger will move the bare shafts to the left into the fletched group. Should it not be the opposite? ... ie 1/4 - 1/2 "MORE" cushion plunger ? Wont a stiffer plunger be required ? Thanks, great video.
Yeah we messed up there! We agree with you, just said it wrongly
no walkback tunning first before the bare shaft tuning?
Is it just the camera or do the limbs that Sjef and Brady shoot have a more satin sheen to the clear coat?
Is the 10mm nocking point above or below the nock?
Do you fine tune your center shot before plunger tension?
You did not talk about tiller. How can we fine tune it ?
Another question : What's the length of your long rod ?
Tiller is a good point, we will get into that i another video. I am using a 30 inch long rod.
On average, what is a good range in millimeters for the plunger button to extend past the riser in aligning the center shot?
Wouldn't it be better to bareshaft tune at 20 indoors rather than 30 outdoors with potential for wind to affect (particularly fletched) arrow flight?
I don't know many 30m+ indoor ranges.
It works too, but a wind still day at 30m will give you a clearer view, since the groups will be more spread, that's all.
Something tha no one said, neither Sjef or Kamisnki, is tha your fletched and bareshaft arrows should have the same weight and balance. Thats why as you can see in the video, his bareshafts has a sock at the end, but The fletched ones doesnt.
Hi guys! This was a really interesting video, for sure. Today I've done my first tuning for 70m, but my main problem was that (shooting 35 pounds on a 70 inch bow) my sight was really low to shot so far away. And my clicker was in the way, covering entirely the sight. I tried everything, moving the sight to the left (but that lead to shot my arrows to the right about 70-80cm from the center at 70m), tuning the plunger etc etc. The only way to shoot in the center was setting the sight like it was, with the clicker covering the sight. What can I do about it? Thank you for any response about that.
change the riser
What did you do? Do you need to use the clicker?
Were you shooting split finger or three under? Shooting split finger will allow you to shoot farther with a sight.
Hey Sjef, have you ever had any issues with Axcel Curve RXF sight pin you're using, especially indoors? Mine become really dim for some reason to the point I can't see it when looking at the target at 18m :(
I don't have any problems with it! HAs it become more dim over time or what is the issue exactly?
@@TripleTroubleArchery yes, exactly. It used to be way brighter in April 2019 than it is now.
@@diewindowsdie maybe it got dirty? can you take out some of the light wire and shorten it a little and insert it again maybe? I dont know if you can do it, I use Sjef sight pin myself and never had the need to check for it.
@@patricksteele I think it is more or less the same.
@@sjankarcher Yeah, might be, but I'm not sure how to disassemble it without damaging.
"the key for plunger tuning is really at 70(m).." but how? As it is said earlier the bare shaft should not be used at 70 m, for the reasons explained in the video. So what is the criterion for plunger tuning at 70 m?
The shape of your group!
Go Hoyt
What I have noticed is that most of the wooden risers /bows cannot seem to launch the arrow straight.
They seem to angle the arrow to the left. Looking at many risers, none of them have any kind of decent alignment.
The string is alligned with the limbs, however , the design and thickness of the riser appears to be all wrong.
The arrow should leave the bow as straight as possible however, the way these limbs are designed, this is never possible.
Even if you shoot off the shelf, the arrow alignment is off and to the left. If you screw in a arrow rest with plunger button, this bad arrow alignment will become even more pronounced.
If you shoot off the shelf, you have the flight fletchers coming into contact with the riser, thus sending the arrow sideways to some degree.
With the arrow rest and plunger button allignment, your flectchers will hopefully clear and have no contact with the riser however, what i have noticed is that the string allignment with respect to the arrow, will be (almost always) be badly out of allignment.
In a newer bow, we take lots of steps to correct for as many allignment issues as possible, however when it comes to wooden risers, all this good sense is thrown out of the windows.
Why?
The wooden risers / bows
you speak of, merely rely upon / have
a greater effect of the `archers paradox´ , hence, you need a weaker spined arrow to `curve around´ the riser. {(as compared to a metal riser which is more closely centre-shot aligned)}.
THE WEAKER SPINE ARROW TAKES CARE OF THE [SEEMINGLY] MIS-ALIGNED WOODEN RISERS. 👍
What I want to know is how much stuff Doug gets for free from being Hoyt staff? ;)
16:55 when we start to move the plunger out should we change the tension again or we should keep the same tension?
thank you for no answer
Hi, I would keep the same spring tension and check after shooting some arrows.
What's the exact model of the stabilisers?
If you watch the second video in the series where they setup the bow they talk about the new shibuya stabilisers that he is using
Right, Biz! @Fanis, I am using the new Shibuya MZS!
Aaand are those dumpers custom made??
They are Beiter V-box dampers
Those are the new 2020 Shibuya Ultima MZS
If I’m shooting indoors at 18m. Do I still really need to tune at 30 & 70 m?
Not necessarily! You can also do bare shaft tuning and fine tuning at 18m, it wil just be a little less accurate.
Now, I know how to fine tune a bow but the thing is I don't have a bow.hahahahaha
Какой материал нити вы используете для тетивы! Благодарю . Like and subscribe from me.
I am using BCY 652 spectra
Regarding the fine tuning at 70m, not everyone is lucky enough to shoot 70m indoors, where there is no wind at all.
It's also good to check different tunes in different circumstances. :) Also good to do bareshaft tuning on a day where the wind is quite still. Thanks for watching 👌
oh, I was expecting the 36 arrow plot at the end ... I hope that will come in a separate vid :-)
anybody recognise the make of target they are shooting at ? I can make out some sort of dinosaur logo.
RhineHeart Wave. They ship in small boxes as the 70m target is split up in 4 parts with 5 cores. Very good stuff but expensive
@@PallyLeonas Cheers !!! I will check them out.
Is that a bow or a helicopter?
Seems to be a bow. A helicopter is usually way larger and looks completely different
I think an eyesight examination maybe in order..
" how to tune YOUR bow"... Poor Sjef, he had to literally BUILD the bow BY HIS OWN... 😂
It was fun though :)
@@TripleTroubleArchery They call it "Stockholm syndrome"... :-P
just use a bic lighter.... not a torch jeez
We are more interested in 200 E bows tuning , less for these hyper-expensive (and "useless") ones (!)
The thing with the 200 euro bow video is that it was untuned, and impossible to do most of the things you can do with this "useless" bow. If the expensive bows are useless, why would companies even put effort in making a good product rather than a cheaply made one?
I have a "similar" 200 E(or less) bow , equally untuned (tuned by me , that means it is "untuned") and my groupings are , let say , "similar" -only there are some 1-2 meters "gaps" between arrows (!). Do you think ... wind drift , maybe ?(!)
Some companies build "good bows" and you find these in the field , 10 years after , still keeping their value and their tune - some companies build "expensive bows" and use strong marketing campaigns to sell them , - you could find these on the field , 2 years after , "bargains" half their initial price (or less) , maybe .
How many people started archery with a 2000 E bow , just because they couldn't make those adjustments on 200 one and how many renounced because they didn't know how to make their 200 at least satisfactory ?
Your 200 bow was "untuned " , but it was "well balanced" from the view point of used components and arrows - and there was a key element , between bow and arrow, which counts - regardless of how cheap or expensive , useful or useless (actually I prefer cheap and useful) the bow is .
Thank you.
What a load of waffle..can't afford an expensive bow so I'll call it useless..