Why We Sharpen Our Knives With a Working Edge
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ธ.ค. 2022
- Sharpening isn’t simple. There are different types of edges and angles that serve different purposes, all of which greatly affect the degree to which a blade can be sharpened.
But more than that, sharpness is an incomplete measure of the usefulness of a knife. Here at MKC, we measure sharpness a bit differently.
Learn more: www.montanaknifecompany.com/b...
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The "burr" created by pushing a knife blade across a sharpener (like a whetstone) needs to be removed (generally happens when a knife is stropped) to stabalise the knife edge after sharpening. His comcept of aggressive is more to do with the grit level of the whetstone or sharpening system used to finish the sharpening process not the burr.
Always a little hesitant to disagree with someone who has far more experience in most ways than I do, but technically I'M not. Technically a master wood carver, whose book I just read is, and I've felt the results since I implemented his (won't name him) sharpening method. Specifically, I'm disagreeing with the idea of stopping at 600 grit.
For wood carving, that "bite" that we're talking about here is VERY important, and so is edge retention.
Master wood carvers, who tend to get asked a lot how they got their knife so sharp, will polish the * out of the edge.
I've also never seen the knife that needed something as low as 120 grit. Even completely re-shaping the grind I only ever go as low as 400.
Generally, we will sharpen on a stone very very infrequently because we keep the edge in shape, but with a new knife or one that has been badly mistreated or a bad grind, we are going to sharpen up to about 1000 grit on stones.
Then we're going to strop, which is generally considered to be around 1200. We DO run the blade backward, but that won't give it "bite."
We get the "bite" or "teeth" during the last step, and that is with very fine ceramic. I use a porcelain coffee cup I got from ebay. I'm pretty sure its "grit" would be well over 10,000.
I don't understand how it gives the edge teeth, but I can feel a definitive difference before and after the ceramic when it comes to grabbing and biting on slice cuts.
Again, this isn't my method or my knowledge. It's from someone who is world renowned in wood carving circles and I can only speak for how much it has changed my experience following his instructions.
Sorry for the length of this, but one of my biggest pet peeves is how mystical crazy * gets started and lingers and becomes "common knowledge" when it comes to knives, steel, and sharpening. It isn't magic, and it's very well understood, and there is good information out there. Just have to weed out all the bad information.
Push cuts need polished edges but slicing performs better when slicing. Wood carving requires push cutting so you do want it as sharp as possible. But for rope, food prep and skinning animals, an aggressive edge can perform much better. Two completely different uses.
Awesome ... Sounds like I've been doing too much work with my wicked edge ... maybe I'll try stropping after I get done with the 600 stone 🙌🏼 ... Oh & I'd love ya to post to Australia (I drop that on most of ya handles 😬)
My wife hopefully got me a speedgoat for Christmas 👀 super excited
👍
Is there a specific reason why you pull the knife instead of pushing the knife? I always thought you push to sharpen and pull to strop
Just a matter of preference, it can work either way
@@MontanaKnifeCompany Edge leading strokes give better edge retention.
The fact you say its a edge with a burr makes me wonder if you actually know anything about what makes a edge sharp...not to mention some wrong and debunked things and terms used
The second he said that he lost credibility with me. This company has it’s marketing down pat. The knives may be made of good stuff but they aren’t worth what they’re charging for them. Lots of USA made knives that are nowhere near that price and are kickass blades
@@trevordelarosa3599 He lost credibility the moment he opened his mouth and started bragging about how they actually chose a steel that can get hardened. Like what? Which knife in the world is made of steel that doesn't harden? Bozo the clown. Standard knife bro bs.
Yea, the majority of what this guy said is false.
You guys know who Josh is, right?
@@robbychism Salesman? Not a very good one.
I came to these same conclusions on sharpness. So what is a good test for work sharpness? Dragging across the thumbnail?
No that just means you’ve set the edge. A good test for sharpness is to get a piece of receipt paper and run your blade through the edge of it towards the middle. You wanna feel how much resistance you’re getting from the blade and how quiet and cleanly it cuts through the paper. The quieter the cut the sharper it is
WOOOOWWWWW!!!! I forgot how HORRIBLE the audio used to be Haha Nonexistent really! Lol
You mis-used almost ever buzzword you used in this video. You clearly don't know the difference between cut initiation and cutting ability or sharpness... or keenness.. or what makes what what. The radius of the apex... the smaller it is, the more acute, the keener the edge, the higher the cut initiation. it doesn't matter one bit if it has "teeth" aka course edge or not. Bite is just a rube/common way of describing cut initiation which just another way of describing edge keenness, which in physical terms is just a measure of the radius of the apex. The only difference between a course edge and a polished edge is that a true course edge will cut longer but be more prone to damage, whereas a polished edge wont cut quite as long but is more resistant to forming chips. When I say course I'm talking about a 120 grit edge, will score about 50% higher on a CATRA test than a polished edge. Once you get to 400 grit the difference is not very noteworthy at all. I digress. Cut initiation and cutting ability are not the same thing. If your knives can't still make cuts with a dull edge, then you have poorly designed knives with geometry more suitable to an axe. Which to be frank is the standard within the EDC knife bro world. Shit geometry and shitty cutting ability, basically zero cutting ability once that edge is gone. That's one reason there's all this focus on gimmicky steels, the other reason is the end users are morons that don't know how to actually use or maintain a knife and are afraid to try to sharpen one because they might "ruin it" so they're always looking for "magical" steels that don't go dull. This is because they don't actually understand how knives work, much less how to actually use or maintain one.
really? which knife steel doesn't harden? please link me to a knife made of steel that doesn't harden. thanks. that's the "high bar" you seek to beat? Wow you chose a steel that actually hardens, like every single other knife on the planet? Wow. Bravo. 1 minute 30 second in is all I need to see. Knife bros are such a joke.
Why the history/theory lesson??? Just skip and get the point!!!!