You make life easier on yourself by pulling the compressor out. Theres plenty of suction line to pull the compressor out in the open to un-sweat the low side. Just reverse the process when putting the new compressor in. Most techs I run into hate working on lg, but I love em. They’re making me lots of money. This year alone I’ve done over 200 compressor replacements on lg refrigerators.
Advise, disconnect the compressor lines with tubing cutter, much faster. Use nitrogen purge while brazing to prevent oxides, use a smaller torch tip like a type 17 #1. You need to evacuate down to at least 350 microns and hold for 15 minutes.
I need your advice on my LG french door refrigerator 4 door same type he is working on its not freezing but I can hear the motor working, the technician changed the motor and filter not condenser. Is there a leakage in the line that's why it's stopped freezing after 5 days of working very well.
Good work you have removed two side vacuum I have done more home work now I 70 but still doing work my hobby I am made 5 valve manifold it is U s a and India Patant thanks
There is a TH-cam video shown that LG using steel pipe on the upper section "foam" , I wonder if LG corrected that wrong material usage in later Frig models , WHY, because steel will be corrosive and leaked and losing pressure thus no cooling/cold at all
Took too long to heat the joint causing the Shrader valve seal to burn (3:55) and introducing a slow leak at the Shrader valve. Maybe you noticed and replaced the core; otherwise, guaranteed future service call for low refrigerant.
I convert these to a standard 120v non linear compressor. I have a video as I finished up. Solves a ton of problems and once you figure out the wiring is not to tough
Oh no! You can't use 15% silver/5% phosphorus based filler metal on a steel to copper joint. That looks like sil-fos 15. Those joints are going to get you a call back. Use 45% or 58% silver filler metal. The phosphorus causes the joint to corrode. More so than the galvanic corrosion caused by the dissimilar metals. You're doing a better job than most. I hope your boss appreciates you.
15% steel to copper does not cause a leak. Lock ring leaks faster than any joint in refrigeration. Its the heat you apply that causes the leak. What are the physics according to your facts that steel to copper cause a leak. Wait Korean steel, Canadian steel or American steel . They all vary. I know because, Korean steel dies not take well to 45% silver. . Canadian or mexicos manufacturers, for Electrolux, only like 45% silver. Or blue or orange flux sticks. Just asking for scientific break down. Pls
@@jesseguerra3734 Go look up what the filler metal manufacturer says. Don't take my word for it. The phosphorus damages the steel. That's what I understand.
I have lg french door refrigerator with ice maker in front 4 door and it stopped freezing so I called for repair the technician replaced the motor and filter it worked for days then stopped freezing but when I open the door I can feel the fan working but only air no cold air coming I can hear the motor also sound but it's not freezing it is that there is a leakage and the freezing gas is gone out of the unit or
Should always use silver Solder when going between copper and steel connections can tell u how many time I go out behind a a&e tech and all the steel to copper joints are leaking. But good on you for willing to do sealed system work a lot of techs are scared to even try.
Lmao. Sounds so freaking familiar. I hear this everyday. I probably replaced over 150 lg compressors last year. I make good money off this. But the customers are pissed after their 2 year old refrigerator is dead.
Get some wet rags and/or cool gel to keep the heat from traveling far from the joint casing more contaminates. If you do it right you won't need to pull the shrader. The wet rags can save you the trouble.
@@misterindependent7994 yes, maybe. Just saying that when the metal is that hot, rags depending on the material (I guess) can stick. That’s why I prefer a really wet paper towel.
How did the high side got restricted if the compressor is Not pumping? You said you were getting 5 flashes at the main board. On some lg models 5 flahes means either leak or bad compressor. As well as 6 flashes on some lg models either leak or bad compressor
Yes change the drier because the new compressor will get contaminated and fail prematurely It will work but down the road you’ll go back cause of some cooling issue
Is the issue with these lg linear compressor have been resolve in 2018-2019 models coz i just bought a side by side 24cu. Lg fridge and im worried that its equipped with these faulty compressors. Just learned the issue after i bought it.
@@ApplianceRep thanks for the reply sir. So how do i know if mine has the old compressor installed? Whats the code or model no. Of a new compressors? My fridge model GR-B247SQUW just acquired Oct. 2019 but may have been manufactured last year. New subscriber here sir thanks for the help👍👍
David Beltrán this was a previous call back with ongoing issues. I had already diagnosed with the high side pressures and low side pressures. The high side was in the high 175 200 psi with the low side in vacuum compressor would overheat and give out an error code. As far as nitrogen in a compact system like this it’s not necessary since the lines are mainly steel and aluminum.
G Loomis Redfish thanks for your response. I'm currently going to HVAC school and working as an appliance repair technician. I've been running into little problems like this. Keep the videos coming good work🙏
You do fine work. I use a resistance brazing machine, so I don't need nitrogen, but I see you don't need no stinking nitrogen either! ;) lol Was the restriction REALLY in the condenser and not the filter or cap tube?
Can someone tell me is this the right order of refrigerant flow? I mean from compressor to filter dryer, to capillary, evaporator, condencer, suction tube and back to compressor? Is this the right order or did I mix them up?
From compressor to condenser to Yoder loop out Yoder loop to filter drier and from outlet of filter drier to cappilarry to evaporator back out to compressor suction.
what psi readings should you see on low side and high side? I've been searching online for hours and half say around 2psi while the other half seem to say around 15-20.
When first starting/ warm 10 to 20 is in range. After the box cools down anything from -2" to 5 PSI is reasonable. Higher OR lower than that will cause poor freezer temperatures and slow ice production. •Here's one problem with using pressures to figure out if it's charged correctly: The above numbers ONLY apply to RECIPROCATING compressors! If you have a variable frequency or linear compressor, then you MUST recover the refrigerant and WEIGH it in to the system to the amount specified on the nameplate. Applies to All brands!
Thanks. It's linear. LG. I weighed it in and it works fine for a couple weeks at a time so I'm assuming I have a leak. Hopefully I can get it fixed before the fluctuating freon levels destroy the compressor.
Definite leak. Look carefully at the connections that were brazed recently, and if there is a quick tapping valve, next time it's low, braze in a 'real' access valve. Check all brazed joints, the access valve itself, and the evaporator. In some cases there's a part of the discharge line that runs around the bottom of the condensate pan under the condenser. They sit in acidic water and corrode and leak, easiest way to test: Fill the pan hit water and add some dish soap to it and gently stir it not making any bubbles. If you see suds, there's a leak! You may have to wait a while to see it. Same on the evaporator, it's best to literally dump dish soap over the coil so it makes no bubbles. sudsy foam will indicate a leak. Just be sure that you rinse out as much of the soap as possible to avoid a blob of suds near the condenser when the fan starts!
OK. So is the sealed LG system a defective design due to piss poor engineering by the company??? If not why are so many ones failing. Is it due to heat dissipation issues with a cramped condenser that should be spread along the back? Did the old 60's and 70's fridges last 20 years because the coils had more "room to breath" and kept the compressor running cooler? I noticed how closely installed and cramped the guts are along with a little fan. What's up with that....
It is well past time for there to be a newer and safer way to attach freon lines in indoor refrigerators besides brazing. The only excuse anyone gives is "oh that's just how it's always been done and it works so why change it". Time for the refrigeration field to update
Doctor Feinstone there is it’s called lokring but the tool is crazy expensive like 3k for a kit. Research r600 the epa wants propane in a refrigerator now 😂
Some of the crimp fittings are very affordable, much more expensive then brazing. They are both just as likely to leak. Not likely if installed correctly.
I have worked on my car AC system that uses same R134a refrigerant. If those systems manage tight sealing using O-rings and torqued bolts for all connections, I wonder what prevents same techniques on these systems? Can someone educate me?
I noticed that he isn't flowing nitrogen while brazing and you don't use Flux with 15% ( copper to copper) use Flux with 45% ( copper to steel or brass) just my $.02
MANUEL NUÑEZ it’s going to vary depending on temp inside the unit. So for instance here on startup your going to have like 30psi on low and 80 on high once the compressor ramps up to full speed it will drop like 0-10psi on low and 90 on high. When you are tapping the system because unit is not cooling your pressure should be in between 0-10 psi. If you see pressure like 30 psi or higher you have to turn off unit and see how much it equalizes to. If it equalizes above 40 psi you have a bad compressor. If it equalizes less than 40 psi you have a leak.
For domestic refrigerators it's much easier to just use acetylene with a dual tip torch. Much less intense flame so you wont melt anything around the repair. Your way is like bringing a cannon to a gun range ..lol
truthsmiles i can’t watch this video, I see the size of that flame and laugh. I shouldn’t criticize, brazing is an art. It takes time to find your groove. I had a boss that told me that my brazing looked like a perfect head of cauliflower. LoL I’d reply, thanks, and it doesn’t leak! Haha.
unknown2day2 by the 5 flashes on the main board. restriction on condenser coil do everything was removed and changed out compressor drier and condenser
I changed yet another LG LINEAR unit the other day, plugged filter also. (#63) Cut the compressors open and EVERY single one has a shattered upper piston valve. Some have the telltale buzzing noise, while others are jammed and don't run at all. Many sound like they are running but there isn't any pressure change. I have yet to have to change a condenser. I see a lot fewer of these reciprocating compressors fail, but still some! Never had a condenser plugged up. Filters? Yes. A couple cap tubes? Yes, and yes they stink to change on the LG. 5 Flashes on the main board just indicate the temperature isn't changing as it should, it's usually the filter-drier plugged by debris from the failing compressor.
The only time your worried about covering the floor is typically if your putting a unit on its side such as dish washer what he did is definitely not going to hurt and someones floor I see what kind of customer this guy clearly would be oh boy
I noticed that as well, I always have a sheet of flame guard on the floor, an extinguisher nearby, and a second flame guard protecting the "ceiling" of the compressor bay and/or the plastic pan. TIP: As often as practical: Braze your compressor connections before setting the compressor in place OUTSIDE the compressor bay. A little harder to set it in place with the lines attached, but often times a whole LOT easier to make the braze connections!
If my enemy ( that is if I have one ) goes near especially Lg,I will try and make up with him to give him the advice of his life not to buy anything Lg,they are all piece of junk and if at all I am at the store buying something and I see anybody trying to buy any Lg product I will most definitely be sincere with such person and advice him or her not to buy anything Lg but buy another product.Simply put Lg products are super junks and they should stop that nonsense they normally say about the acronym Lg that Life's Good,with their junk,messy products life's not good at all .
ALL Appliances have class action lawsuits going. They are ALL equally prone to failure. More bells and whistles cause more problems, but they all are shit! It's the lottery that's all it is.
Lol.. stay away from who now? How many other manufacturers are there really that sale mainstream nowadays? Unless your buying top dollar wolfe or sub zero pretty much all fridges out there are either lg, kennore, fridgidaire or samsung and all of those fridges all tend to have the same issues or they dont have any issues and lasy for 10 years like any nornal fridge should...
The welding job very poor. You needed to practice alot more before really do in this job. The flame way too big with out any protection for customer property. Lucky it wasn't on fire. Use smaller tip. You should done 1 joint in 10sec. Good luck
You make life easier on yourself by pulling the compressor out. Theres plenty of suction line to pull the compressor out in the open to un-sweat the low side. Just reverse the process when putting the new compressor in.
Most techs I run into hate working on lg, but I love em. They’re making me lots of money. This year alone I’ve done over 200 compressor replacements on lg refrigerators.
Have anyone in South FL that'll love an extra doing mine?
Is it required to change out evaporator coil,or condensing coil on some of units
Advise, disconnect the compressor lines with tubing cutter, much faster. Use nitrogen purge while brazing to prevent oxides, use a smaller torch tip like a type 17 #1. You need to evacuate down to at least 350 microns and hold for 15 minutes.
You are right: was looking for the nitrogen purge prior.
I need your advice on my LG french door refrigerator 4 door same type he is working on its not freezing but I can hear the motor working, the technician changed the motor and filter not condenser. Is there a leakage in the line that's why it's stopped freezing after 5 days of working very well.
Why takes so long to braze each joint? I get it’s steel to copper but still with correct rod it should take couple seconds each joint..?
run nitro through the high side to clear the cap tubes and it also cleans the system so you get a better and faster vacuum
XPxAxBxLxOX cool I’ll try that next time
Also Nitro helps eliminate copper oxide contaminates.
Good work you have removed two side vacuum I have done more home work now I 70 but still doing work my hobby I am made 5 valve manifold it is U s a and India Patant thanks
Get that flame a little closer, hot, low glow, back off pow boom and tada. Should take you about 10 seconds per joint depending on how tight it is.
Forizzle
There is a TH-cam video shown that LG using steel pipe on the upper section "foam" , I wonder if LG corrected that wrong material usage in later Frig models , WHY, because steel will be corrosive and leaked and losing pressure thus no cooling/cold at all
Gotta bend the suction copper so it’ll apply force on itself. It won’t pop out on ya
Took too long to heat the joint causing the Shrader valve seal to burn (3:55) and introducing a slow leak at the Shrader valve. Maybe you noticed and replaced the core; otherwise, guaranteed future service call for low refrigerant.
I convert these to a standard 120v non linear compressor. I have a video as I finished up. Solves a ton of problems and once you figure out the wiring is not to tough
High side restriction, or compressor failure? Looks like compressor replacement to me.
He also said "Piston lock up", which means compressor failure.
Oh no! You can't use 15% silver/5% phosphorus based filler metal on a steel to copper joint. That looks like sil-fos 15. Those joints are going to get you a call back. Use 45% or 58% silver filler metal. The phosphorus causes the joint to corrode. More so than the galvanic corrosion caused by the dissimilar metals. You're doing a better job than most. I hope your boss appreciates you.
Learned that over time yes using 45% now
15% steel to copper does not cause a leak.
Lock ring leaks faster than any joint in refrigeration. Its the heat you apply that causes the leak. What are the physics according to your facts that steel to copper cause a leak. Wait Korean steel, Canadian steel or American steel . They all vary. I know because, Korean steel dies not take well to 45% silver. .
Canadian or mexicos manufacturers, for Electrolux, only like 45% silver. Or blue or orange flux sticks.
Just asking for scientific break down. Pls
@@jesseguerra3734 Go look up what the filler metal manufacturer says. Don't take my word for it. The phosphorus damages the steel. That's what I understand.
@@RobertLanghorn
New Refrigeration tech myself, thanks for your info.
Do you recommend any brand?
@@ilosappliancevideos47 I use Lucas-Milhaupt SILVALOY 560 FLUX COATED (Orange). You can find it or something like it at an HVAC/R Supply house.
I have lg french door refrigerator with ice maker in front 4 door and it stopped freezing so I called for repair the technician replaced the motor and filter it worked for days then stopped freezing but when I open the door I can feel the fan working but only air no cold air coming I can hear the motor also sound but it's not freezing it is that there is a leakage and the freezing gas is gone out of the unit or
Should always use silver Solder when going between copper and steel connections can tell u how many time I go out behind a a&e tech and all the steel to copper joints are leaking. But good on you for willing to do sealed system work a lot of techs are scared to even try.
not necessarily if done right
Luke College 45% solder is the best
Do you guys run nitrogen when brazing a sealed system?
From the heat sink loop in the body of the Fridge to the filter Drier isn’t that a aluminium to copper connection?
Great job on the repair, the finish product looks real good 👍
The famous LG compressor. Leaking in the condenser that sits in water.
one man show good technesion good work suction pipe joint welding tu much problem
Lmao. Sounds so freaking familiar. I hear this everyday. I probably replaced over 150 lg compressors last year. I make good money off this. But the customers are pissed after their 2 year old refrigerator is dead.
Wouldn't you be?
Get some wet rags and/or cool gel to keep the heat from traveling far from the joint casing more contaminates. If you do it right you won't need to pull the shrader. The wet rags can save you the trouble.
Wet rags can stick to the metal, paper towel doesn’t
I dont have that problem with the wet rags. Your rags may be different material. Good to know paper towels are an option.
@@misterindependent7994 yes, maybe. Just saying that when the metal is that hot, rags depending on the material (I guess) can stick. That’s why I prefer a really wet paper towel.
How did the high side got restricted if the compressor is Not pumping? You said you were getting 5 flashes at the main board. On some lg models 5 flahes means either leak or bad compressor. As well as 6 flashes on some lg models either leak or bad compressor
What manifold make and model did you use to complete this job? Digital one
Hey good video. One question - if the system did not have a leak to begin with and only a bad compressor, is it necessary to replace the filter drier?
Yes change the drier because the new compressor will get contaminated and fail prematurely
It will work but down the road you’ll go back cause of some cooling issue
Every time captain Replace the filter drier.
Hey.
Can you make a video how to add service ports. thank you.
Sure
Lol, I love the whining customer in the beginning
shame on you Chad that’s every day here bro that empathy bullshit
what kind of flux are you using?
Just a video of someone working. All I learned was that Rent-a-fridge stores keep charging for broken appliances and most likely for the repair.
Using stay silv white brazing flux with 15% silver solder rod but using 45% silver solder works like factory
Is the issue with these lg linear compressor have been resolve in 2018-2019 models coz i just bought a side by side 24cu. Lg fridge and im worried that its equipped with these faulty compressors. Just learned the issue after i bought it.
Ahness Qritik they came out with new compressor about 4 months ago so yours probably has the original old compressor
@@ApplianceRep thanks for the reply sir. So how do i know if mine has the old compressor installed? Whats the code or model no. Of a new compressors? My fridge model GR-B247SQUW just acquired Oct. 2019 but may have been manufactured last year. New subscriber here sir thanks for the help👍👍
Ahness Qritik let me search the model on old compressor I’ll send it tonight
@@ApplianceRep thank you sir, really appreciate it👍👍 wish i could sub to you a thousand times💙👏
www.linkedin.com/posts/jack-jimenez-75166a152_lg-compressors-model-numbers-activity-6590414197249622016-ES6q
Do you Flow nitrogen through the system when you braze. How do you determine if there's a clogg in a capillary tube
David Beltrán this was a previous call back with ongoing issues. I had already diagnosed with the high side pressures and low side pressures. The high side was in the high 175 200 psi with the low side in vacuum compressor would overheat and give out an error code. As far as nitrogen in a compact system like this it’s not necessary since the lines are mainly steel and aluminum.
G Loomis Redfish thanks for your response. I'm currently going to HVAC school and working as an appliance repair technician. I've been running into little problems like this. Keep the videos coming good work🙏
David Beltrán I’ll make some more videos on sealed systems different techniques latet
Generally if the high side is that high there's a low side leak. If there's a condenser restriction pressures would be ambient
@@XPxAxBxLxOX And if there is a leak? What then? Still fixable, constantly rechargable, or a total scrap? (For specific unit shown in the video.)
Hey what is a good alternative for a LG filter dryer?
You do fine work. I use a resistance brazing machine, so I don't need nitrogen, but I see you don't need no stinking nitrogen either! ;) lol Was the restriction REALLY in the condenser and not the filter or cap tube?
record what you were doing but you did not explain the pressures that it handles high and low
Can someone tell me is this the right order of refrigerant flow? I mean from compressor to filter dryer, to capillary, evaporator, condencer, suction tube and back to compressor? Is this the right order or did I mix them up?
From compressor to condenser to Yoder loop out Yoder loop to filter drier and from outlet of filter drier to cappilarry to evaporator back out to compressor suction.
@@ApplianceRep thank you!
Why you replace condenser?
He no replace condenser.. compressor.. he replaced compressor...
what psi readings should you see on low side and high side? I've been searching online for hours and half say around 2psi while the other half seem to say around 15-20.
When first starting/ warm 10 to 20 is in range. After the box cools down anything from -2" to 5 PSI is reasonable. Higher OR lower than that will cause poor freezer temperatures and slow ice production.
•Here's one problem with using pressures to figure out if it's charged correctly: The above numbers ONLY apply to RECIPROCATING compressors! If you have a variable frequency or linear compressor, then you MUST recover the refrigerant and WEIGH it in to the system to the amount specified on the nameplate. Applies to All brands!
Thanks. It's linear. LG. I weighed it in and it works fine for a couple weeks at a time so I'm assuming I have a leak. Hopefully I can get it fixed before the fluctuating freon levels destroy the compressor.
Definite leak. Look carefully at the connections that were brazed recently, and if there is a quick tapping valve, next time it's low, braze in a 'real' access valve. Check all brazed joints, the access valve itself, and the evaporator. In some cases there's a part of the discharge line that runs around the bottom of the condensate pan under the condenser. They sit in acidic water and corrode and leak, easiest way to test: Fill the pan hit water and add some dish soap to it and gently stir it not making any bubbles. If you see suds, there's a leak! You may have to wait a while to see it. Same on the evaporator, it's best to literally dump dish soap over the coil so it makes no bubbles. sudsy foam will indicate a leak. Just be sure that you rinse out as much of the soap as possible to avoid a blob of suds near the condenser when the fan starts!
John In Milford z
OK. So is the sealed LG system a defective design due to piss poor engineering by the company??? If not why are so many ones failing. Is it due to heat dissipation issues with a cramped condenser that should be spread along the back? Did the old 60's and 70's fridges last 20 years because the coils had more "room to breath" and kept the compressor running cooler? I noticed how closely installed and cramped the guts are along with a little fan. What's up with that....
dan dinhofer yes n I can say it’s job security mainly leaks on the aluminum evaporator
People cram then in like a built in ref but they are not. Cant breath and overheats.
What if you run it with the back cover off? Will that help or hurt?
It is well past time for there to be a newer and safer way to attach freon lines in indoor refrigerators besides brazing. The only excuse anyone gives is "oh that's just how it's always been done and it works so why change it". Time for the refrigeration field to update
Doctor Feinstone there is it’s called lokring but the tool is crazy expensive like 3k for a kit. Research r600 the epa wants propane in a refrigerator now 😂
Propane is a great rifridgerant that doesn't mess with the O zone. I wonder about it's operation next to electrical components though.
Some of the crimp fittings are very affordable, much more expensive then brazing. They are both just as likely to leak. Not likely if installed correctly.
I have worked on my car AC system that uses same R134a refrigerant. If those systems manage tight sealing using O-rings and torqued bolts for all connections, I wonder what prevents same techniques on these systems? Can someone educate me?
@@ashokmoghe8035 expenses for manufacturer.
Wow is that a brand new unit?
What is refrigerant gas?
Over kill on the flux bro
Yep to much flux
may i ask what type of soldering you used ?
Guillermo Loredo 45%
@@ApplianceRep thanx
Think you put enough flux on it brother?
john t I’d a put the whole damm bottle but didn’t. Have enough 😂
Remember: Flux is your Friend! Meaning that If you put more than enough it is never too much.
No nitrogen purge when solver soldering
What city do you work in bro?
Texas South Texas
Charging through the dryer odd that
Sounded like he was pushing a wet charge in and wouldnt want to do that low side into the compressor..
I noticed that he isn't flowing nitrogen while brazing and you don't use Flux with 15% ( copper to copper) use Flux with 45% ( copper to steel or brass) just my $.02
Abla expica lo que estas asiendo y los materiales que usas...
can you tell me how much psi this refrigerator has
MANUEL NUÑEZ it’s going to vary depending on temp inside the unit. So for instance here on startup your going to have like 30psi on low and 80 on high once the compressor ramps up to full speed it will drop like 0-10psi on low and 90 on high.
When you are tapping the system because unit is not cooling your pressure should be in between 0-10 psi. If you see pressure like 30 psi or higher you have to turn off unit and see how much it equalizes to.
If it equalizes above 40 psi you have a bad compressor. If it equalizes less than 40 psi you have a leak.
@@ApplianceRep this inveter or non inveter
I had the scorpion brazing kit
For domestic refrigerators it's much easier to just use acetylene with a dual tip torch. Much less intense flame so you wont melt anything around the repair. Your way is like bringing a cannon to a gun range ..lol
TheNYgolfer I’ll try that next time dual tip? Never heard of it we use acetylene and oxygen here with a 0 tip.
@@ApplianceRep look up Lorraine furniture on TH-cam. He has a video where he uses one. It's a really unusual tip
You need to clean that flame up
fvfgx been soldering with 15% is much tougher on the steel to copper, found that a 45% works way better with a less hot 🔥
That flame needs help. Adjust your tank pressures.
Loretta Cirka - Yeah it sounded very oxidizing to me. I hope he didn’t weaken the tubes.
truthsmiles i can’t watch this video, I see the size of that flame and laugh. I shouldn’t criticize, brazing is an art. It takes time to find your groove. I had a boss that told me that my brazing looked like a perfect head of cauliflower. LoL I’d reply, thanks, and it doesn’t leak! Haha.
how did you find out its a restriction?
unknown2day2 by the 5 flashes on the main board. restriction on condenser coil do everything was removed and changed out compressor drier and condenser
I changed yet another LG LINEAR unit the other day, plugged filter also. (#63) Cut the compressors open and EVERY single one has a shattered upper piston valve. Some have the telltale buzzing noise, while others are jammed and don't run at all. Many sound like they are running but there isn't any pressure change. I have yet to have to change a condenser. I see a lot fewer of these reciprocating compressors fail, but still some! Never had a condenser plugged up. Filters? Yes. A couple cap tubes? Yes, and yes they stink to change on the LG. 5 Flashes on the main board just indicate the temperature isn't changing as it should, it's usually the filter-drier plugged by debris from the failing compressor.
John In Milford yes your right it was on the filter drier inlet still the high side. Before going to a low pressure liquid
Floor covering please!
Shut up.. your floor? Your job? Your fridge? Your problem?
The only time your worried about covering the floor is typically if your putting a unit on its side such as dish washer what he did is definitely not going to hurt and someones floor I see what kind of customer this guy clearly would be oh boy
no floor protection OUCH !
I noticed that as well, I always have a sheet of flame guard on the floor, an extinguisher nearby, and a second flame guard protecting the "ceiling" of the compressor bay and/or the plastic pan. TIP: As often as practical: Braze your compressor connections before setting the compressor in place OUTSIDE the compressor bay. A little harder to set it in place with the lines attached, but often times a whole LOT easier to make the braze connections!
You a rookie if you need floor protection, come on now..if you can’t handle you’re flame and need protection you in the wrong business...
We just threw our our LG fridge. Lasted 4 years and broke after 2. Sick of loosing all the food.
Stay away from LG and Kenmore
lg makes kenmore now
stay away from samsung also
If my enemy ( that is if I have one ) goes near especially Lg,I will try and make up with him to give him the advice of his life not to buy anything Lg,they are all piece of junk and if at all I am at the store buying something and I see anybody trying to buy any Lg product I will most definitely be sincere with such person and advice him or her not to buy anything Lg but buy another product.Simply put Lg products are super junks and they should stop that nonsense they normally say about the acronym Lg that Life's Good,with their junk,messy products life's not good at all .
ALL Appliances have class action lawsuits going. They are ALL equally prone to failure. More bells and whistles cause more problems, but they all are shit! It's the lottery that's all it is.
Lol.. stay away from who now? How many other manufacturers are there really that sale mainstream nowadays? Unless your buying top dollar wolfe or sub zero pretty much all fridges out there are either lg, kennore, fridgidaire or samsung and all of those fridges all tend to have the same issues or they dont have any issues and lasy for 10 years like any nornal fridge should...
@@togowisdom4881no they dont.
Why are you NOT running nitrogen through that system while braising. You just Contaminated the system!!!
That's what the filter drier is for. Don't have time for nitrogen. It's time consuming as it is. You must be a rookie Dave Harmon.
md929 I'm Highly advanced Individual
Sounds like you don't work on refrigerators. Those are rookie questions you are asking.
No nitrogen? So that's why the capillary tube clogged lol.
Compressors are all crap now. Back in the day was quality
Also a lot more toxic
have run across a bunch of these crappy lg frigeswith blocked cap tubes
Good repair
Everything is switching over to lokring!
Thank you
You need a smaller tip bro.
Those linear compressors are junk
Don’t want problems? Get a panasonic or Hitachi fridge lol. Simple as that.
The welding job very poor. You needed to practice alot more before really do in this job. The flame way too big with out any protection for customer property. Lucky it wasn't on fire. Use smaller tip. You should done 1 joint in 10sec. Good luck
Camera front
Them valves leek. Shite
Lg-bad compressor! Bad from the factory!
Brazing note good 👎
Oh note note
Cieeeee....
too bad !!!
Eew
hi bro which brazing rod and flux use for steel to copper ?