AEM was the first intake I ever bought on my Honda Civic back in the days lol they make awesome products. If it was for me I’ll install it on our Passport, but I don’t think my wife will like it 😁 Sounds awesome btw!
Amazingly so many videos out there and NOT EVEN ONE PERSON DISCOVERED that Honda Odysseys PILOT have that SUPERCHARGER sound,,, During acceleration try releasing accelerator pedal slowly but let it still accelerate and you will hear air being released out loudly. But no one ever showed this lol Been doing it with my Honda Odyssey until i sold it with 320.000 miles Now i bought Honda Pilot can't wait until Cold Air intake comes in !
The air intake assembly: the part attached to top of radiator to the filter: Honda calls it a resonator assembly: it’s designed to create air turbulence which slows the intake flow and reduce noise. How about creating a plain tube to direct outside cooler air to the filter box? Most aftermarket cold air intakes eliminate the typical OE air tubes.
I have a Honda ridgeline 2014 white I love this vehicle and wanted one of these intakes real bad! Every time I punch in my my year and model all i get is the flat air filter to go with my factory airbox! I love the sound and light power pickup you get from doin this also if you change out the cat back exhaust system it will greatly improve performance I need this!
My Gen 1 has a short ram air intake similar to this and sounds bit like this right here even moreso with mine because I straight piped it this past spring.
There are only a few reasons it can happen, improper installation of the sensor(which honestly should be quite difficult), oil on the MAF(possible that your hands or something else contaminated the sensor, this with the increased air flow could throw the code), you have some sort of leak and everything needs to be reevaluated for proper assembly. I would unplug the battery for I think 5-10 min resetting the ECU then reattempting and make sure that everything is clean and properly assembled. There could be that very slight chance your vehicle is sensitive to the modification but honestly I believe that to be unlikely. I have done mods like this for years and I have personally never experienced a single CEL code. I wish you the best in solving the issue and getting it resolved. Please keep me posted if you do reinstall it. Thank you.
With the stock setup you were drawing cold air from outside the grille guard. Now with this new AEM setup your partially drawing hot air from inside the engine bay. So what this means is with the new AEM set up you are making less horsepower and less torque because your drawing in hotter air than the stock set up. It looks nice and it sounds nice but I'm pretty sure it decreased both your horsepower and your torque ! And you're probably getting worse gas mileage with the new AEM setup also.
I will have a video coming out later on this to compare. I am totally aware of heat soak and all this but it was not the reason why I bought the intake. The sound is nice though.
In my experience with the K&N Typhoon in my '12 TL Sh-AWD (SRI setup, no true CAI options for the car other than the stock intake setup which actually is a true CAI similar to the Pilot here) I am reading at times double the flow of air into the engine past the MAF. Mass air flow rate has increased from a stock peak of ~12lb/min to as high as 22-24lb/min as read by BlueDriver OBD2. This is due to the larger diameter piping over stock. The Takeda option for the vehicle with smaller tubing reaches around 16-18lb/hr, less but still better flow than stock. What I have found in regards to intake air temperature with the SRI in my car, when stuck in traffic or a drive through will increase in temperature faster than the stock setup, but once moving it will decrease temp dramatically faster than the stock setup. The thick plastic of the stock airbox retains the heat more than the small aluminum tube. I have seen the SRI go slightly higher in temp than the stock setup, but with the dramatic drop in temp when driving this is not a concern. Overall ambient cruising temperatures are the same for me between stock and the intake, with the K&N intake sometimes dropping below +10deg of ambient, something the stock box never did once the car warmed up. IAT readings taken from both the BlueDriver and KtunerV2 display. This is my take on it from my experience. If you are always stuck in traffic, then yes you will average out to sucking in slightly higher temperature air (but a lot more available volume, so I doubt any HP will actually be lost over the stock setup) but once moving again you will quickly clear out the hot air. And this is all dependent on the engine bay setup... if you are still able to make use of the factory air inlet ducting then you will still have ambient air drawn into the intake area when the car is in motion. Older Honda's where there is no way to funnel cooler air to an SRI will surely have the heatsoak issue you described, but most all newer cars do not suffer from this as bad as those from the 90's and early 2000's.
Dear Yuriy Motso, thank you for using your Ridgeline as a crash test dummy on this intake. Looking forward to your comments on AEM intake effect. Any engine check lights? Any complaints from female passengers on intake sounds? Hoping for your success so I can follow you're lead. Love my Ridgeline.
So far no check engine lights after about 100+ miles and no feedback/noise from the engine that would worry me. Coming from a history of nothing but modified turbo cars the noise is nothing to complain about. Honestly if you are driving normally you will never hear the intake. Only when you go to pass someone and go over 3500-4000RPM or WOT do you begin to hear it. When V-tec kicks in is when it transforms the sound completely. Its not obnoxious in the cabin but would be interested to find out how it sounds outside. Might be something I will have to check out. My wife heard it the other day did say it was louder but for the most of our drive she didn't hear any difference at all.
@@YuriyMotso Jimbo here, you did me a solid by responding to my comment. My spouse drives a 96 RSX Type S six-speed we have had since new. Just love ringing that little Honda out to hear the VTEC engine sound. When I test drove my 2019 Ridgeline sport, I heard that same sweet engine sound. Your AEM intake experiment holds much interest for me. I'll be following your progress.
Is the engine bay a hassle to work with? Im considering a Ridgeline but im not too sure because the bay is a tight fit. Also do you have to use the engine covers? What are their purpose? Good video also!
First off thank you for watching! Now this is a V6, front wheel drive biased with a transfer case for the AWD system. They have crammed quite a bit of stuff into the engine bay. That being said most of the components that you may ever need to replace such as timing belt and pump is accessible from first glance. Will only confirm this once I have had to actually replace them in the future. I am not sure about the necessity of the motor cover but it could be to help retain heat away from other components. The cover over the radiator support however I believe is critical in funneling the air into the engine. They are not a pain to remove and put back on so it should not steer you away from owning this truck. I use to be a tacoma guy and having a family the tacoma is too small. The Honda is significantly better the for average handy man and professionals IMO. The two best features of this truck is the seating position and fuel economy.
How does your truck idle after the install? I had mine installed all winter with no issue but when it's hot and I have the AC on specifically, it tends to drop rpm when idling. Never stalled or anything and when I put the stock intake back on for service it did the same thing but to a lesser degree. Just wondering if this is a common thing.
I have had no issues with mine. Your problem sounds like you have a problem with air flow. Check all the pipes/hoses and connections to make sure that you have no leaks or a hose that's discounted or not connected well. I willing to bet when you press/pump the accelerator pedal the idling improves and the issue goes away for a moment.
the odyssey probably not. I looked at the photo of the Bay Area and it has some significant design differences especially around the radiator support and through the A Pilars. So maybe the intake would fit but the guard itself I doubt would work.
Hello Yuriy, Did you have to calibrate the computer, after you installed the AEM intake, with the MAF sensor registering more cold air passing by it. Or does the computer figure out the new AEM intake, by letting the engine run for 10 minutes or so. Thx for the video, just received my AEM intake from Amazon.
This is a plug and play. No tuning or Calibrating from your part needed. As you stated the vehicle will adjust to the new A/F ratio over time. As long as you do not get your MAF sensor greasy and hook up all the lines correctly you should have no issues whatsoever. If you have never done this then just as a recommendation use gloves when handling the MAF sensor to reduce chances of contamination from your fingers.
I have a 2021 black edition ridgeline and I have to put it back in stock air intake because it send me a error with the AEM intake the same one as the video.
Life has been pretty crazy with the new born and moving into my new house. I need to make my follow up video the the 4 part series on the filter test. I stuck with the AEM drop in. It had all round better results in all tests and more consistent.
Don't think there is any proof ? Or anything else to prove any improvement in Horse power or Fuel economy ??? Sounds Cool But i think it would VOID your warranty ??
I plan on having this done. I just moved to Georgia so I have to redo a whole test that I was conducting. will delay a fuel economy comparison video I have been working on and if I get the chance I will try and get it on the dyno because I know everyone want to find out just as much as I do.
@@YuriyMotso The sound is cool and would be the main reason I would like to get one, however dont expect big HP gains. Modern vehicles with strict emissions controls do not respond well to intakes (like old Honda's did in the 90's and early 2000's). They tend to pull back spark advance and other parameters resulting zero net HP gains, and sometimes even negative. But it sounds cool!
You can get a used one for probably $200 or a new one from amazon for I think $270ish. This Should not void the warranty however I would recommend you check with your local Honda dealer to confirm.
Sorry for the delay. I am in the middle of moving across country from Washington to Georgia. I have some really awesome things in mind that I don't want to spoil yet so stay tuned. I was working on a fuel economy test but it got ruined as I been moving a trailer around and I have to scrap all my data as I can't use Washington data and compare it to data I gather in Georgia. So all that time I invested went to waste. I expect to start working back on this project in a month. During that period I will be focusing on my move and the content will be tailored for trailer specific stuff such as fuel economy with a fully loaded trailer and truck to maximum capacity as well as transmission temperature and heating if I run into any issues. So I apologize for not getting this data out sooner and I will do my best to get it done as soon as I get to Georgia. Thank you!
May sound more powerful, but likely just pulling in hotter (less dense) air and more microscopic dirt than the OEM system. Waste of money. If it was that easy the engineers at Honda put it there in first place.
I thought I replied but I guess it never went through. No, I do not have any experience with any idle issues. What sounds like to me is that you have some sort of bad connection. You more likely have an air hose that is not connected properly and so your car is compensating to keep it from dying. I am betting when you give it a tap on the throttle the fluctuations stop for a few seconds before starting up again. If so Im betting you have just a simple issue where a connection is lose. I hope this helps.
I checked all my hose to see if there was air leak buy still does it🤷🏽♂️ i really want this to work for my 2017 Honda ridgeline black edition but might have to put the stock one back on 😔
Due to the move from Washington to Georgia my data that I collected was voided. I am actually starting this fuel economy test over again this week. So hopefully end of next week I may have a video out for Fuel economy comparing the two.
Someone’s gas mileage will go down from pushing the accelerator more for more sound if they were inclined. Running the engine the same exact way should give the same or better mpg.
Not sure I understand the question? But if you are interested to know if it creates more horsepower then I have videos on that. th-cam.com/video/3sPR3O-zCUM/w-d-xo.html
Hello Joe. Thanks for watching my video and for taking the time to comment. I understand your point of view perfectly. I am however working on trying to get a video uploaded where I test this to be accurate or not. Until then these are the claims that AEM is posting and Boasting. Without actual data to back up a claim its just speculation and I am well aware of heat sink and so forth. They provided a "DYNO" Test Result which I am considering on challenging. So stay tuned and watch out for a video that might be popping up regarding this issue.
If you are interested I have posted the Dyno video today. Hope you enjoy it because I was also questioning if it really produces more power. Thanks again for taking the time to watch the video!
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
just want to say thanks for your videos. I got a Passport recently and your engine related videos are all relevant to the passport! Keep it up!!
Honda V6's sound so good with an intake. I used to have a 2000 Accord V6 and the intake made it sound like a V8 lol
AEM was the first intake I ever bought on my Honda Civic back in the days lol they make awesome products. If it was for me I’ll install it on our Passport, but I don’t think my wife will like it 😁 Sounds awesome btw!
Amazingly so many videos out there and NOT EVEN ONE PERSON DISCOVERED that Honda Odysseys PILOT have that SUPERCHARGER sound,,,
During acceleration try releasing accelerator pedal slowly but let it still accelerate and you will hear air being released out loudly.
But no one ever showed this lol
Been doing it with my Honda Odyssey until i sold it with 320.000 miles
Now i bought Honda Pilot can't wait until Cold Air intake comes in !
Just got my AEM Intake delivered today. Excited to get it installed, hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for making this install video!
Awesome! Have you seen my AEM Dyno video? I love this intake.
The air intake assembly: the part attached to top of radiator to the filter: Honda calls it a resonator assembly: it’s designed to create air turbulence which slows the intake flow and reduce noise. How about creating a plain tube to direct outside cooler air to the filter box?
Most aftermarket cold air intakes eliminate the typical OE air tubes.
I have a Honda ridgeline 2014 white I love this vehicle and wanted one of these intakes real bad! Every time I punch in my my year and model all i get is the flat air filter to go with my factory airbox! I love the sound and light power pickup you get from doin this also if you change out the cat back exhaust system it will greatly improve performance I need this!
The power increase is at the top end of the powerband (high rpm), so not worth in my opinion unless you’re looking for the sound?
My Gen 1 has a short ram air intake similar to this and sounds bit like this right here even moreso with mine because I straight piped it this past spring.
I got code errors throwing off my AWD and so did a buddy of mine that got his installed. Once we took it off we never saw it again. Why is that?
There are only a few reasons it can happen, improper installation of the sensor(which honestly should be quite difficult), oil on the MAF(possible that your hands or something else contaminated the sensor, this with the increased air flow could throw the code), you have some sort of leak and everything needs to be reevaluated for proper assembly. I would unplug the battery for I think 5-10 min resetting the ECU then reattempting and make sure that everything is clean and properly assembled. There could be that very slight chance your vehicle is sensitive to the modification but honestly I believe that to be unlikely. I have done mods like this for years and I have personally never experienced a single CEL code. I wish you the best in solving the issue and getting it resolved. Please keep me posted if you do reinstall it. Thank you.
With the stock setup you were drawing cold air from outside the grille guard. Now with this new AEM setup your partially drawing hot air from inside the engine bay. So what this means is with the new AEM set up you are making less horsepower and less torque because your drawing in hotter air than the stock set up. It looks nice and it sounds nice but I'm pretty sure it decreased both your horsepower and your torque ! And you're probably getting worse gas mileage with the new AEM setup also.
I will have a video coming out later on this to compare. I am totally aware of heat soak and all this but it was not the reason why I bought the intake. The sound is nice though.
In my experience with the K&N Typhoon in my '12 TL Sh-AWD (SRI setup, no true CAI options for the car other than the stock intake setup which actually is a true CAI similar to the Pilot here) I am reading at times double the flow of air into the engine past the MAF. Mass air flow rate has increased from a stock peak of ~12lb/min to as high as 22-24lb/min as read by BlueDriver OBD2. This is due to the larger diameter piping over stock. The Takeda option for the vehicle with smaller tubing reaches around 16-18lb/hr, less but still better flow than stock.
What I have found in regards to intake air temperature with the SRI in my car, when stuck in traffic or a drive through will increase in temperature faster than the stock setup, but once moving it will decrease temp dramatically faster than the stock setup. The thick plastic of the stock airbox retains the heat more than the small aluminum tube. I have seen the SRI go slightly higher in temp than the stock setup, but with the dramatic drop in temp when driving this is not a concern. Overall ambient cruising temperatures are the same for me between stock and the intake, with the K&N intake sometimes dropping below +10deg of ambient, something the stock box never did once the car warmed up. IAT readings taken from both the BlueDriver and KtunerV2 display.
This is my take on it from my experience. If you are always stuck in traffic, then yes you will average out to sucking in slightly higher temperature air (but a lot more available volume, so I doubt any HP will actually be lost over the stock setup) but once moving again you will quickly clear out the hot air. And this is all dependent on the engine bay setup... if you are still able to make use of the factory air inlet ducting then you will still have ambient air drawn into the intake area when the car is in motion. Older Honda's where there is no way to funnel cooler air to an SRI will surely have the heatsoak issue you described, but most all newer cars do not suffer from this as bad as those from the 90's and early 2000's.
video of the Dyno is up. Hope you enjoy.
Yeah but you're wrong the outside air tube is still there and there's a shield nothing but more power to be had with a system like this
Do you have to tune the car after?
Dear Yuriy Motso, thank you for using your Ridgeline as a crash test dummy on this intake. Looking forward to your comments on AEM intake effect. Any engine check lights? Any complaints from female passengers on intake sounds? Hoping for your success so I can follow you're lead. Love my Ridgeline.
So far no check engine lights after about 100+ miles and no feedback/noise from the engine that would worry me. Coming from a history of nothing but modified turbo cars the noise is nothing to complain about. Honestly if you are driving normally you will never hear the intake. Only when you go to pass someone and go over 3500-4000RPM or WOT do you begin to hear it. When V-tec kicks in is when it transforms the sound completely. Its not obnoxious in the cabin but would be interested to find out how it sounds outside. Might be something I will have to check out. My wife heard it the other day did say it was louder but for the most of our drive she didn't hear any difference at all.
@@YuriyMotso Jimbo here, you did me a solid by responding to my comment. My spouse drives a 96 RSX Type S six-speed we have had since new. Just love ringing that little Honda out to hear the VTEC engine sound. When I test drove my 2019 Ridgeline sport, I heard that same sweet engine sound. Your AEM intake experiment holds much interest for me. I'll be following your progress.
@@jimboheadspace1788 96 RSX? Lol... no such thing. That would be an Integra!
@@JR-zz4zy Thanks for catching my bad. Had the RSX so long ( 2006 ?) I must have developed senile dementia. Help me, I have fallen and can't get up.
how long did this take? we need a year update too
So is it just an expensive noise maker or does it add power?
I have a few videos that go in depth. Should check out the Dyno video.
Is the engine bay a hassle to work with? Im considering a Ridgeline but im not too sure because the bay is a tight fit. Also do you have to use the engine covers? What are their purpose? Good video also!
First off thank you for watching!
Now this is a V6, front wheel drive biased with a transfer case for the AWD system. They have crammed quite a bit of stuff into the engine bay. That being said most of the components that you may ever need to replace such as timing belt and pump is accessible from first glance. Will only confirm this once I have had to actually replace them in the future. I am not sure about the necessity of the motor cover but it could be to help retain heat away from other components. The cover over the radiator support however I believe is critical in funneling the air into the engine. They are not a pain to remove and put back on so it should not steer you away from owning this truck.
I use to be a tacoma guy and having a family the tacoma is too small. The Honda is significantly better the for average handy man and professionals IMO. The two best features of this truck is the seating position and fuel economy.
Damn that vtec crossover sounds even better than stock!
It does. I'll have to make a video of how It sounds from the outside passing buy.
Sounds good.👌
How does your truck idle after the install? I had mine installed all winter with no issue but when it's hot and I have the AC on specifically, it tends to drop rpm when idling. Never stalled or anything and when I put the stock intake back on for service it did the same thing but to a lesser degree. Just wondering if this is a common thing.
I have had no issues with mine. Your problem sounds like you have a problem with air flow. Check all the pipes/hoses and connections to make sure that you have no leaks or a hose that's discounted or not connected well. I willing to bet when you press/pump the accelerator pedal the idling improves and the issue goes away for a moment.
So how much HP did you gain?
Definitely a much more pronounced Vtec kick. Do you know if this would fit on the odyssey with the same engine?
the odyssey probably not. I looked at the photo of the Bay Area and it has some significant design differences especially around the radiator support and through the A Pilars. So maybe the intake would fit but the guard itself I doubt would work.
@@YuriyMotso thanks!!
Would this void the warranty?
Hello Yuriy, Did you have to calibrate the computer, after you installed the AEM intake, with the MAF sensor registering more cold air passing by it. Or does the computer figure out the new AEM intake, by letting the engine run for 10 minutes or so. Thx for the video, just received my AEM intake from Amazon.
This is a plug and play. No tuning or Calibrating from your part needed. As you stated the vehicle will adjust to the new A/F ratio over time. As long as you do not get your MAF sensor greasy and hook up all the lines correctly you should have no issues whatsoever. If you have never done this then just as a recommendation use gloves when handling the MAF sensor to reduce chances of contamination from your fingers.
@@YuriyMotso Thanks for the heads-up, use gloves, must remember that. Looking forward to a little more noise. ;)
I have a 2021 black edition ridgeline and I have to put it back in stock air intake because it send me a error with the AEM intake the same one as the video.
what engine is that i thought that model of j35 had vcm not vtec
Would liked to have heard it from inside the cabin
Don’t worry! I Got you covered. 👌🏻
th-cam.com/video/cUkgwEMw_po/w-d-xo.html
Will this also fit on a 2017 Acura MDX? It has the same engine as a Ridgeline but the AEM website says it isn’t compatible.
Yes same engine
Did you end up keeping the intake on or just use the AEM filter in the stock air box? Sorry if that was already covered
Life has been pretty crazy with the new born and moving into my new house. I need to make my follow up video the the 4 part series on the filter test. I stuck with the AEM drop in. It had all round better results in all tests and more consistent.
By your reasoning more noise must equal more HP, correct?
Probably about the same, but sounds much nicer.
Dam just got engine light and AWD came on
Don't think there is any proof ? Or anything else to prove any improvement in Horse power or Fuel economy ??? Sounds Cool But i think it would VOID your warranty ??
No it wouldn’t
Did you dyno it? The only way to know for sure of any gains or losses is dynomometer before and after mods.
I plan on having this done. I just moved to Georgia so I have to redo a whole test that I was conducting. will delay a fuel economy comparison video I have been working on and if I get the chance I will try and get it on the dyno because I know everyone want to find out just as much as I do.
@@YuriyMotso The sound is cool and would be the main reason I would like to get one, however dont expect big HP gains. Modern vehicles with strict emissions controls do not respond well to intakes (like old Honda's did in the 90's and early 2000's). They tend to pull back spark advance and other parameters resulting zero net HP gains, and sometimes even negative. But it sounds cool!
Dyno video is live.
Any info if your gas mileage has suffered?
I am working on that video now. I expect to have enough data in the next two weeks.
Video of fuel economy and Dyno are up. Enjoy.
I don't understand why the 2023+ Honda Pilot is not on the compatible list. Practically the same engine.
Any change in your gas mileage?
I am working on that video now. I expect to have enough data in the next two weeks.
Yes, Fuel economy video is up as well as a Dyno video.
How much would this cost to do and also do you think this would void the warranty
You can get a used one for probably $200 or a new one from amazon for I think $270ish. This Should not void the warranty however I would recommend you check with your local Honda dealer to confirm.
Anyone ever get a Dyno test
Does this product interfere with mass airflow sensor after cleaning?
It have never had an issue. I think that people who have issues miss handle their sensors by touching it with their bare hands.
Update on this?
Sorry for the delay. I am in the middle of moving across country from Washington to Georgia. I have some really awesome things in mind that I don't want to spoil yet so stay tuned. I was working on a fuel economy test but it got ruined as I been moving a trailer around and I have to scrap all my data as I can't use Washington data and compare it to data I gather in Georgia. So all that time I invested went to waste. I expect to start working back on this project in a month. During that period I will be focusing on my move and the content will be tailored for trailer specific stuff such as fuel economy with a fully loaded trailer and truck to maximum capacity as well as transmission temperature and heating if I run into any issues. So I apologize for not getting this data out sooner and I will do my best to get it done as soon as I get to Georgia. Thank you!
Dyno video and fuel economy video are available now.
Hmmm. Seen this on the 90s Civics. Next up: unpainted body kit and a fart can muffler. Next destination: scrapyard.
I can assure you no scrap yard or unpainted body kits. :) Fart can muffler XD LOL Not likely either.
what a dumbass ignorant comment lol jesus
So this is the same thing we did in the ‘70s when we flipped the lid on the air filter housing. We got more noise but it was free.
May sound more powerful, but likely just pulling in hotter (less dense) air and more microscopic dirt than the OEM system. Waste of money. If it was that easy the engineers at Honda put it there in first place.
I installed the same one and noticed a drop in idol and noticed it would fluctuate when i was stopped a light i called AEM and they didn’t help at all
I thought I replied but I guess it never went through. No, I do not have any experience with any idle issues. What sounds like to me is that you have some sort of bad connection. You more likely have an air hose that is not connected properly and so your car is compensating to keep it from dying. I am betting when you give it a tap on the throttle the fluctuations stop for a few seconds before starting up again. If so Im betting you have just a simple issue where a connection is lose. I hope this helps.
I checked all my hose to see if there was air leak buy still does it🤷🏽♂️ i really want this to work for my 2017 Honda ridgeline black edition but might have to put the stock one back on 😔
@@roberto3007 the leak may not be from the hoses that you used to attach the air filter. It could be somewhere else in the engine bay.
Yuriy Motso wouldn’t it set off the engine light because when i went to honda and they did the oil change and they didn’t mention it
Any update on your gas mileage test?
Due to the move from Washington to Georgia my data that I collected was voided. I am actually starting this fuel economy test over again this week. So hopefully end of next week I may have a video out for Fuel economy comparing the two.
Coming soon! Test is complete. 😏
Video of fuel economy test and Dyno is live.
Someone’s gas mileage will go down from pushing the accelerator more for more sound if they were inclined. Running the engine the same exact way should give the same or better mpg.
noise =/= power
You should watch my dyno video then.
th-cam.com/video/3sPR3O-zCUM/w-d-xo.html
Why?
Not sure I understand the question? But if you are interested to know if it creates more horsepower then I have videos on that. th-cam.com/video/3sPR3O-zCUM/w-d-xo.html
VTECCCCCC
😳
youll actually lose torque with an increased intake diameter.
Loud does not tell the tale. Show facts not fluff.
What an inconvenient spot for the battery, pff…newer cars smh
Now your sucking in directly hot engine bay air. This is a terrible idea.
Nope
@@msalazar89 Yep
Without a tune you’re going to run into problems!!😖😖😖😖
But it's still a Honda Ridgeline. Fail 👎🏼
Fake News.. Either change the title to Make more noise, or delete this video
Hello Joe. Thanks for watching my video and for taking the time to comment. I understand your point of view perfectly. I am however working on trying to get a video uploaded where I test this to be accurate or not. Until then these are the claims that AEM is posting and Boasting. Without actual data to back up a claim its just speculation and I am well aware of heat sink and so forth. They provided a "DYNO" Test Result which I am considering on challenging. So stay tuned and watch out for a video that might be popping up regarding this issue.
If you are interested I have posted the Dyno video today. Hope you enjoy it because I was also questioning if it really produces more power. Thanks again for taking the time to watch the video!