I just started playing around with 3D photography using a Fujifilm Finepix Real 3D camera. I have been fascinated with 3D since getting my first Viewmaster many years ago and, hopefully, 3D photography is not dying out . This video has much more information than just creating an anaglyph and gives me the motivation to keep experimenting. I especially liked the discussion of photo stacking. Thanks for the video.
I'm happy you found it useful! We have lots of videos about stacking and other useful techniques that can be applied to macro and close-up photography, 3D or otherwise!
I built a little rig decades ago to slide my camera over 2.5 inches to take two images that I processed into slides. Then, I dropped it into a viewer that had two slide slots, and it worked great. After watching your video, I can use the same rig with my digital camera, great stuff. I got so excited with the process that I created a new fixture for mobile cameras that I can then produce with my 3D printer. PS can be pretty quick. I will next try to stack a couple of images. Thanks.
I used a pair of Honey Nut Cheerios 3D glasses my dad had lying around. Lenses are a bit small but did the job. Until today I did not know of this method of photo stacking for macro images, really neat!
This is nice video. I have not seen this method used for macro photography before. I have an older Sony 3d camera that does most of the hard work for me but I want to work with larger files. I prefer to make 3d video and have seen some people make rigs for 2 cameras. Since I already have several gopro cameras, I am working getting them working together. I have a pair of clip on anaglyph glasses. To anyone that wears glasses, I recommend getting some. I find it much easier to just flip the lens up and down rather than fiddle with a second pair of glasses. Amazon sells them for about the same price as the regular glasses.
Hiya - followed along with my 3D glasses and found your video really interesting and the countdown was a great idea too. I have been dabbling for quite a while now with Kula Deeper attachment for DLSR as well as two parallel cameras on a tripod as well as the standard but basic two images, one after the other. Have had some amazing results but have just invested in a Fulifilm Finepix Real 3D as I am hoping to publish a book soon with my images. Have never used focus stacking before but am definitely going to experiment now with this. Thank you
The flower looks marvelous, congratulations! I was able to see it in all it's glory with my 3D glasses. I just got myself a Vivitar 3D Q-Dos that I will test tomorrow and can't wait to see how it fares against your strategy. Subscribed and liked. Keep up the great work, very happy to find a macro-focused channel. I'm also passionate at the ways we can capture those sub-cm subjects.
Welcome to the channel! Glad you were able to see the effect with some glasses. I'm sure a dedicated 3D lens will create a much better effect with less effort, let us know how you get on with it!
Brilliant video Ben. Fortunately I just received Don Komarechka's new book in which he included a set of 3d glasses. This is one of the most intriguing videos yet. Well done!
This is a really cool, informative video! A couple things though: 1.) This method of 3D photography - shooting the left- and right-eye photos one at a time - is perfect for capturing still objects in controlled studio environments, like what you're doing with flowers. (It's also why this method is used by Laika for shooting their stop motion films in 3D.) However, this method is not ideal for, as you mention at 6:00, capturing people, landscapes, or anything that's gonna move even just a little bit, because then you're going to get discrepancies between the left and right photos that won't "line up" perfectly when viewed in 3D. At this point, you might as well buy an actual stereo camera or stereo rig so that the two photos can be taken simultaneously. You may already know all this and didn't mean to imply otherwise, but I feel it should be made clear for those who are starting out on 3D photography. 2a.) It seems the biggest problem with the "bad example" photograph (@13:18) is that the left and right photos are the wrong channels: the left photo (which might have been mislabelled "right") is cyan, and the right photo is red, so the 3D glasses are filtering them to the opposite eyes. So now the whole 3D effect has been "inverted" - what should be coming outwards is going inwards, and vice versa. Just switch the channels on the left and right photos (or wear your 3D glasses upside down 😛), and that should be fixed! However, even with that problem resolved, I do still agree that the 3D effect isn't as dramatic as with your other photos. 2b.) Another issue with the "bad example" picture is that some of the hot, orange highlights don't quite mesh well with the anaglyph effect. I would use a hue/saturation mask on either the left or right photo to adjust the hue to something a little cooler, then switch on the red & cyan channels to see if the 3D effect meshes better; if adjusting the hue on the left or right doesn't work, then adjust the other. This will, of course, alter the colors of the original photograph (potentially to something unappealing), but it will make for better-looking 3D.
All valid points, especially with the moving subjects. Didn't apply to the kinds of subjects shot here but indeed a proper rig with 2 cameras or a split lens would be more ideal for anything that has the opportunity to change while the camera is moved. Regarding the bad example image, I agree that the colours of the image didn't help, but that was part of the example, some things just don't work well with anaglyph colours. Well spotted on the channels, but even with them swapped it's still not a great example, though a bit less brain boggling! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
I've discovered the same thing with red/pink roses: the anaglyph topology doesn't fare well. Green plants and leaves show up perfectly. I guess the bigger the color separation of the subject from the primary glas filters the easier to obtain the 3D effect.
I did have a look at that briefly but I found it just as quick to put it through photoshop. I'm sure that once you know all the settings it would be much quicker and reduce possibility of human error (I got them the wrong way around a few times before noticing).
Genius took me almost as long to find my 3d Glass's I attempted (still need some work) long exposure opposed to slacking As always thanks so much Ben for the idea and my next project
Great video, lots of useful, practical info! You never use the word "cyan" though, even as you display it. In fact, your glasses seem to be red-blue instead of red-cyan, which means green light is completely blocked and you likely aren't getting the full color effect of your beautiful pictures.
True, the Red/Blue glasses are much more common than Red/Cyan, but it should still work with a Cyan tinted lens too, I didn't remove the green channel from that lens.
@@Adaptalux I know that you kept the green channel in the cyan part of the image when you edited it from 3D, but I don't think you get that back when you look at it with red/blue lenses. Cyan=Blue+Green, so Blue=Cyan-Green. The funny thing is, if you order a bunch of cardboard 3D anaglyph glasses, you normally get red/cyan. Yours look to actually be red+blue though.
I just started playing around with 3D photography using a Fujifilm Finepix Real 3D camera. I have been fascinated with 3D since getting my first Viewmaster many years ago and, hopefully, 3D photography is not dying out . This video has much more information than just creating an anaglyph and gives me the motivation to keep experimenting. I especially liked the discussion of photo stacking. Thanks for the video.
I'm happy you found it useful! We have lots of videos about stacking and other useful techniques that can be applied to macro and close-up photography, 3D or otherwise!
I built a little rig decades ago to slide my camera over 2.5 inches to take two images that I processed into slides. Then, I dropped it into a viewer that had two slide slots, and it worked great. After watching your video, I can use the same rig with my digital camera, great stuff. I got so excited with the process that I created a new fixture for mobile cameras that I can then produce with my 3D printer. PS can be pretty quick. I will next try to stack a couple of images. Thanks.
Really cool tutorial and expalanation
I used a pair of Honey Nut Cheerios 3D glasses my dad had lying around. Lenses are a bit small but did the job.
Until today I did not know of this method of photo stacking for macro images, really neat!
Bought some today Ben will be doing some 3d soon. Great video explains it all.
Let me know how you get on with 3D! It's a bit more work, but the results can be really cool when it works!
Wonderful presentation I like how you added the counter
Thank you, thought I had better warn people when to put their 3D glasses on!
This is nice video. I have not seen this method used for macro photography before.
I have an older Sony 3d camera that does most of the hard work for me but I want to work with larger files. I prefer to make 3d video and have seen some people make rigs for 2 cameras. Since I already have several gopro cameras, I am working getting them working together.
I have a pair of clip on anaglyph glasses. To anyone that wears glasses, I recommend getting some. I find it much easier to just flip the lens up and down rather than fiddle with a second pair of glasses. Amazon sells them for about the same price as the regular glasses.
Great video Ben. Really interesting. Thanks
Thanks Martin!
Hiya - followed along with my 3D glasses and found your video really interesting and the countdown was a great idea too. I have been dabbling for quite a while now with Kula Deeper attachment for DLSR as well as two parallel cameras on a tripod as well as the standard but basic two images, one after the other. Have had some amazing results but have just invested in a Fulifilm Finepix Real 3D as I am hoping to publish a book soon with my images. Have never used focus stacking before but am definitely going to experiment now with this. Thank you
Glad you found the video useful, let us know ow how your shoots go with the new equipment!
Awesome.. will definitely try this... Idea is so simple. Thank you. Don't have the glasses as of now
Make sure to give it a go if you got some glasses, it's great seeing your own photos come to life!
Another fantastic video, just ordered glasses
Glad you enjoyed it Jean, let us know how you get on when your glasses arrive!
@@Adaptalux still waiting on my glasses😂😂😂
The flower looks marvelous, congratulations! I was able to see it in all it's glory with my 3D glasses. I just got myself a Vivitar 3D Q-Dos that I will test tomorrow and can't wait to see how it fares against your strategy. Subscribed and liked. Keep up the great work, very happy to find a macro-focused channel. I'm also passionate at the ways we can capture those sub-cm subjects.
Welcome to the channel! Glad you were able to see the effect with some glasses. I'm sure a dedicated 3D lens will create a much better effect with less effort, let us know how you get on with it!
Brilliant video Ben. Fortunately I just received Don Komarechka's new book in which he included a set of 3d glasses. This is one of the most intriguing videos yet. Well done!
Thanks Stephen, glad you were able to see the photos in 3D! It's really worth a go making some of your own!
This is a really cool, informative video! A couple things though: 1.) This method of 3D photography - shooting the left- and right-eye photos one at a time - is perfect for capturing still objects in controlled studio environments, like what you're doing with flowers. (It's also why this method is used by Laika for shooting their stop motion films in 3D.) However, this method is not ideal for, as you mention at 6:00, capturing people, landscapes, or anything that's gonna move even just a little bit, because then you're going to get discrepancies between the left and right photos that won't "line up" perfectly when viewed in 3D. At this point, you might as well buy an actual stereo camera or stereo rig so that the two photos can be taken simultaneously. You may already know all this and didn't mean to imply otherwise, but I feel it should be made clear for those who are starting out on 3D photography.
2a.) It seems the biggest problem with the "bad example" photograph (@13:18) is that the left and right photos are the wrong channels: the left photo (which might have been mislabelled "right") is cyan, and the right photo is red, so the 3D glasses are filtering them to the opposite eyes. So now the whole 3D effect has been "inverted" - what should be coming outwards is going inwards, and vice versa. Just switch the channels on the left and right photos (or wear your 3D glasses upside down 😛), and that should be fixed! However, even with that problem resolved, I do still agree that the 3D effect isn't as dramatic as with your other photos.
2b.) Another issue with the "bad example" picture is that some of the hot, orange highlights don't quite mesh well with the anaglyph effect. I would use a hue/saturation mask on either the left or right photo to adjust the hue to something a little cooler, then switch on the red & cyan channels to see if the 3D effect meshes better; if adjusting the hue on the left or right doesn't work, then adjust the other. This will, of course, alter the colors of the original photograph (potentially to something unappealing), but it will make for better-looking 3D.
All valid points, especially with the moving subjects. Didn't apply to the kinds of subjects shot here but indeed a proper rig with 2 cameras or a split lens would be more ideal for anything that has the opportunity to change while the camera is moved.
Regarding the bad example image, I agree that the colours of the image didn't help, but that was part of the example, some things just don't work well with anaglyph colours. Well spotted on the channels, but even with them swapped it's still not a great example, though a bit less brain boggling!
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
I've discovered the same thing with red/pink roses: the anaglyph topology doesn't fare well. Green plants and leaves show up perfectly. I guess the bigger the color separation of the subject from the primary glas filters the easier to obtain the 3D effect.
Great video! Love the 3D effect :)
Thanks Dave, glad you enjoyed the video. Did you use some glasses to see the effect in all its glory?
@@Adaptalux Yes, a pair of Red/Cyan. You did an amazing job!
Awesome, glad to hear someone saw the effect in all its glory!
You could use the Stereo Photo Maker free software to combine left and right yet photos automatically. The software supports batch processing as well.
I did have a look at that briefly but I found it just as quick to put it through photoshop. I'm sure that once you know all the settings it would be much quicker and reduce possibility of human error (I got them the wrong way around a few times before noticing).
Very nice! I don’t have a red and blue 3D glasses, but I’ll look for that. It’s pretty cool!
They are pretty cheap to get hold of or even make your own. Remember to come back and look at the photos if you find some!
@Rose Jenna Prieto Arias thank you! I’ll look for it.
Genius took me almost as long to find my 3d Glass's I attempted (still need some work) long exposure opposed to slacking As always thanks so much Ben for the idea and my next project
How do you see your camera settings with the glasses on? :(
You don't have to wear them all the time, although I think it's a pretty cool look.
How do you determine how far to slide from left to right? Does it depend on how far you are away from the subject?
Hi Ben is the slider rail necessary
Not really if you can make sure you move the camera to the side only... don't change the angle.
Hello what was the focusing rails you were using thanka
I think it's the Neewer 4 way macro rail
Great video, lots of useful, practical info!
You never use the word "cyan" though, even as you display it. In fact, your glasses seem to be red-blue instead of red-cyan, which means green light is completely blocked and you likely aren't getting the full color effect of your beautiful pictures.
True, the Red/Blue glasses are much more common than Red/Cyan, but it should still work with a Cyan tinted lens too, I didn't remove the green channel from that lens.
@@Adaptalux I know that you kept the green channel in the cyan part of the image when you edited it from 3D, but I don't think you get that back when you look at it with red/blue lenses. Cyan=Blue+Green, so Blue=Cyan-Green.
The funny thing is, if you order a bunch of cardboard 3D anaglyph glasses, you normally get red/cyan. Yours look to actually be red+blue though.