Hi everybody, Apologies for the in-camera audio, Our recorded audio got corrupted and was not salvageable for some reason, we'll try fixing it in our upcoming episodes :) Thanks for your support! stay safe and well.
Great video, but this was 3 years ago. You mentioned parts 2 and 3 of this series are coming up. Is that still in the pipeline, or have you dropped the project?
There are many different ways twinned cameras can be mounted when shooting 3D, such as on slide bars, or on z-bars (where one camera is upside down, and the other is right side up). There are several other methods too. Sometimes the cameras used will limit your options. I recommend you seek out George Themelis, aka Dr. T.
thanks for the video what i would like to know when doing 3d photography do you focus on the same point or are both cameras just facing parallel to infinity
It is always important that both cameras face forward, not pin inwardly to a point. The reason is, the parallax in both the foreground and background need to be reasonable for the eyes to fuse. In real life, yes, we do pin our eyes in and look at a specific point, and only that point is in focus, everything else is out of focus, and that’s fine. But in 3D photography you never know where the viewer will try to look. Usually the viewer will allow their eyes to freely roam around at various things at various depths in the z axis, so everything in the image should be not only in focus, but should be comfortable to fuse. If you pin the two cameras in to a point on the main foreground subject the backgrounds will be so dramatically different they will be terribly uncomfortable if not painful to view in 3D, as the eyes try to fuse it and cannot. Clear as mud? :-) Another thing that should be mentioned is the two cameras, ideally, should be as close together as possible, or more specifically, the two lenses should be separated by about the same distance as the average human interocular distance (2.5 inches / 65 mm or so). In the video, his two lenses are about twice as far apart as they should be. That’s fine for shooting long distances, but for shooting subjects anywhere from 3 to 15 feet, he’s going to end up with 3D photos in which the subjects look miniaturized to about half their normal scale. The converse is also true - If the two lenses are too close together, subject will appear larger than normal when viewed in 3D.
Thank you so much i have been chancing this answer for a very long time, most people i ask just have no idea, I don't mean they are silly just haven't come across people like you. Thank you for replying in depth most appreciated John k
Hi everybody, Apologies for the in-camera audio, Our recorded audio got corrupted and was not salvageable for some reason, we'll try fixing it in our upcoming episodes :) Thanks for your support! stay safe and well.
Great video, but this was 3 years ago. You mentioned parts 2 and 3 of this series are coming up. Is that still in the pipeline, or have you dropped the project?
Hello I was trying to find the tripod mount if you know the type name
There are many different ways twinned cameras can be mounted when shooting 3D, such as on slide bars, or on z-bars (where one camera is upside down, and the other is right side up). There are several other methods too. Sometimes the cameras used will limit your options. I recommend you seek out George Themelis, aka Dr. T.
thanks for the video what i would like to know when doing 3d photography do you focus on the same point or are both cameras just facing parallel to infinity
It is always important that both cameras face forward, not pin inwardly to a point. The reason is, the parallax in both the foreground and background need to be reasonable for the eyes to fuse. In real life, yes, we do pin our eyes in and look at a specific point, and only that point is in focus, everything else is out of focus, and that’s fine. But in 3D photography you never know where the viewer will try to look. Usually the viewer will allow their eyes to freely roam around at various things at various depths in the z axis, so everything in the image should be not only in focus, but should be comfortable to fuse. If you pin the two cameras in to a point on the main foreground subject the backgrounds will be so dramatically different they will be terribly uncomfortable if not painful to view in 3D, as the eyes try to fuse it and cannot. Clear as mud? :-) Another thing that should be mentioned is the two cameras, ideally, should be as close together as possible, or more specifically, the two lenses should be separated by about the same distance as the average human interocular distance (2.5 inches / 65 mm or so). In the video, his two lenses are about twice as far apart as they should be. That’s fine for shooting long distances, but for shooting subjects anywhere from 3 to 15 feet, he’s going to end up with 3D photos in which the subjects look miniaturized to about half their normal scale. The converse is also true - If the two lenses are too close together, subject will appear larger than normal when viewed in 3D.
Thank you so much i have been chancing this answer for a very long time, most people i ask just have no idea, I don't mean they are silly just haven't come across people like you. Thank you for replying in depth most appreciated John k
@@johnkantarGlad to be of help.