More on the belt & pulleys ~ * Replacing the belt & idler/tensioner: th-cam.com/video/ItND7vPozv8/w-d-xo.html * More on the belt tensioner: th-cam.com/video/mOm42H0J3iY/w-d-xo.html * Water pump: th-cam.com/video/cj8JBMJxibQ/w-d-xo.html * Over-running alternator pulley (OAP): th-cam.com/video/XYi_w3ieGUo/w-d-xo.html Amazon links for the Duratec HE (check your part no.s): * Serpentine belts & pulleys ~ US: amzn.to/2Gugnmh | UK: amzn.to/2GLgt8o * 6PK2225 as featured ~ US: amzn.to/2TNQpNC | UK: amzn.to/2tpyl0v * Idler as featured ~ US: amzn.to/2BCt0aW | UK: amzn.to/2IgAQg6 * Tensioner featured (Continental # 49405): amzn.to/2VFScG2 * More tensioners ~ US: amzn.to/2S6gW6R | UK: amzn.to/2SFdgy6 * Water pump ~ amzn.to/2XLTdfC * Or, for generic pumps the Ford part # is 1142427 ~ US: amzn.to/2ZCqbAS | UK: amzn.to/2W5qSAE * Alternator over-run pulley, try searching ~ US: amzn.to/2lvN0H6 | UK: amzn.to/2lvSVfr
Oh man, found this video after looking at like 40 other ones. So friggin smooth. So many trash videos on youtube regarding cars and repairs. Keep up the good work.
Too bad TH-cam quit showing how many dislikes a video has so you can easily assume which videos are not going to be very helpful for what you’re trying to figure out
Having the same issue with my acura tl and I can hear the knock more inside the cabin, specifically accelerating slowly. Because cause when I accelerate fast, I can't hear the knock. And I figured it was the serpentine belt tensioner pully. This video helped me more too. So thank you.
Hi thanks for the great idea removing the belt for the troubleshooting purpose. This is good to eliminate the issue between belt mechanical and engine internal.
Had a knocking sound at around 2500 or 3000 rpm and sometimes at idle. Did some checks on the engine and couldn’t really find anything out of the ordinary apart from my worn out pas pump (but I already knew about that one) one morning I was letting my car warm up and I was standing outside listening and the sound seemed to be coming from under the car so because it was only warm not hot I held my exhaust tip and the noise disappeared, let go again and I heard the noise. Turned out that it was just my exhaust rattling cause my exhaust hangers I’m guessing are about as old as the car and have never been changed. Stuck some new ones on and haven’t heard the sound since so keep in mind that the noises you hear aren’t always directly related to your engine
Had this kind of thing with a brand new Lexus timing belt idler pulley. The type of engine with three accessory drive belts. What a game, especially after changing the timing belt and putting it all back together already!
you can also use a wooden dowel metal vibrates too much so you can use a wooden dowel put it on the part you think the noise is coming from make sure not to put it on parts that are rotating this works really good because metal vibrates too much and the wood does not vibrate very much and will give you a true or sound to find out engine noise also the man in the video is correct about taking the belt off to see if your getting engine noise somewhere else like in the motor itself sometimes it is necessary when working on a car trying to figure out what engine noise is coming from sometimes it is a good idea to cut the car on jack stands to eliminate road noise I hope this information that I gave you about the wooden dowel will help you locating noises Within the motor or exterior parts of your vehicle including transmission differentials Drive axles bearing noises in the lower part of the motor and upper part of the motor and valve covers additional accessories you're able to check with the wooden dowel like the alternator the water pump air conditioning power steering pump and pulleys Honda motor garters and other types of motors the Peace of wood dowel rod works very well
Put a new belt and tensioner on made the water pump noise for sure. Sometimes noises aren't so obvious until you fix something. I hate when that happens, makes you think you screwed up.
100000%. Replaced timing chain and vtc actuator on my Accord and have been hyper aware. Getting a rattling sound that makes me think i potentially screwed something up. But its a tensioner or something else
Great video, it was super helpful! I spent hours looking at other videos and this one was the one that made the difference! Thanks for investing your time to help out
Well, this sounds pretty similar to my noise on m9r renault. Its the original belt, never changed. First i thought its the timing chain which is under a cover at the same location. My mechanic said yesterday it doesnt sound like the chain. I should try getting of the belt as you did. So i will try this 👌 Thanks buddy
How did you get on? I have the same issue with my m9r engine too it's an a renault espace. Been concerned its the timing chain but could easily be one of the aux belt pulleys
@@kevinhoyes3344 For me it was the CrankPulley of the aux belt. You can easily see it if you turn your wheel completly right and just open the plastic cover behind the right front wheel. If your noises is at specific rpm (for me it was about 1500rpm) you can see it shaking while it makes noises. To change it you need a special tool to counterhold which i bought for about 30€
Same parts and issue I replaced on my 96 k1500 with a 350 Chevy. Thinking it’s either my harmonic balancer or the crank going out smh. Issue started shortly after replacing pulleys. Harmonic is ordered and here guess we will see in due time 😅
This is why you ALWAYS check all pulleys for wobbliness, loosening and bearing noise and replace if need before you reinstall the new tension belt and idle pulley so that way you don't work twice!
Similar issue..replaced a lot of parts..some needed others not so much..tonight I ran car with belt off..same vibration and rattle noise...looked at harmonic balancer ,seemed to have a slight wobble,actually not even sure,but I ordered one off Amazon and are keeping fingers crossed this is the problem..
This is exactly what I’ve been dealing with my car, just started doordashing and a new job 30 minutes away from home. My water pump is new so I knew it wasn’t that but this pulley has shaken my engine so much the cover cracked.
I kept having problems with harmonic balancer pulley. Cheaply made. The noise was shocking but I agree with taking the belt off. I ran it with it off and was so much worse cos it wasn't under tension so was vibrating more. It's a quick east check for the harmonic wheel aka crank shaft wheel too. Also never buy cheap and try and get a genuine part. I've been through 3 so far.
Thanks for this. I’m getting a weird engine noise and I suspect either a pulley or alternator bearings as the noise only occurs under load (adding extra electrical load makes it worse). The noise is most noticeable when the car is driven so should it be okay to drive it for a few yards?
Hello i have this exact sound on a new Renault Captur 1.0 GPL since the second month of ownersip with 2500km on the clock. The specific motor is 3cyl. When visited the local dealer he concluded that was the top right engine mount. When replaced the sound disappeared for 40 days or approximately 2800km and then appeared again. Visited again the local dealer who then blamed the DMF but advised me not to replace it. Since then i have replaced two more time the specific engine mount but the problems keeps recurring after some time and km. Another dealer proposed to do what you describe in order to isolate the three pulleys crankshaft, water pump and alternator. Not to forget the motor has no belt tensioner. He replaced the waterpump but nothing changed. Do you think that it can be the crankshaft or the alternator pulley? Or can it be something else that comes up to your mind. The sound is heard clearly when car decelerates from 1500 rpm exactly at 1000 rpm, when due to the 3 cyl the car vibrates more as a trrrrrrrr (the sound heard on your video after 0'39") but also on idle with a different frequency. It is heard clearly in the cars interior and no so clearly when out of the car.
Would squealing in damp weather be another symptom along with a ticking noise to indicate checking pulleys etc, car has almost 160k kms and hasn't had any timing adjustment yet.
Did you find out what caused the knocking sound? I went through your other videos but couldn't find it. I'm hearing the exact same sound on my Mondeo. To me, it seems to be coming from the alternator but I'm not completely sure.
Did you investigate that 1 second rattle at start up? I have the same noise on a 2002 Mondeo which only happens on a warm start, never on a cold start.
@@cHeile On mine it’s looking like one of the hydraulic tappets draining out. I’ve eliminated everything else... I’ve had a few of these cars, not had it on any except this one. Probably gonna live with it but yeah pretty annoying.
I had a weird one which took a while to isolate. It was a loud rattle at idle which turned out to be the spring inside the tensioner. I’ve subsequently heard it on another car so could be fairly common on the duratec. Tricky as all the bearings were fine and had me thinking it might be the cam chain at one point.
@30YearOldBunta Same here! I hope that's it at least. I have owned my 2001 Mondeo since 2009 and I've never replaced the belt. So I've driven 211.000km (it has now done 276.000km) with this belt and I'm not sure if it was ever replaced before. It is a very good belt though, shame to replace it😂.
How do you take out out the bolts next to the Harmonic Balancer to take out the Belts ? I had a 2001 Toyota Camry 2.2 Liter . I tried taking them bolts out to loosen the bolts but it looks like I have to take more bolts more than two ? I loosen one bolts already .But how many bolts should take out to loosen the belts .?.
I have that exact loud knock when starting for a little bit more time but it completely goes away after 2 seconds on a cold start. I plan on changing my water pump, both belts and water pump and tensioner hopefully this helps!
It depends on the car, some cars use just an electric water pump to cool the engine, some cars use the timing chain or toothed belt to drive the water pump
Hello Craig. I recently replaced a rattling belt tensioner in my 2002 mbz c320........As well as a new belt for good measure. the rattling went away. but now it is back ????? anyone got any ideas ????? I can clearly see that the spring in the tensioner is not keeping two surfaces apart and that is what I see is making contact and causing the rattle. BUT, I thought a new tensioner with better spring and a new Belt would solve the rattle......as I said, it did, though only for a moth or so.......
Can someone please help me 😭😭 I have a dodge neon srt4 and for whatever reason ,only at 2k rpm’s + will the car make a rattle noise and it increases with rpm. Temperature of motor doesn’t matter. It also only seems to happen while accelerating , if I’m decelerating I can’t seem to hear it . If you have any ideas I’d greatly appreciate it 🙏🏾
I was getting this noise for sometime.. thinking it was cam chain, valves, taps, fuel pump pressure, top end knock, oil pressure. Got the belt changed after 137k miles! (It lasted but was on the way out) now have a bigger nosie when bonnet up. I guess it's a pulley, on it way out. As reving the engine sounds perfect! Does the aux belt, always go at one speed or go fast when underload? As I have a noise and would like to think it's a pulley, gearbox on its way out. Drives fine and pulls great. Just noise's at 140k on a 2L duratec ST150
PLEASE HELP I have a silverado and on cold start it tics for only 1 second but does not sound quite like a lifter tic, looked at so many vids and cant find the culprit
Thanks for this. Good advice. I am not sure whether my auxiliary belt rattle is water pump, AC clutch or alternator clutch. Waiting for it to get worse !
Would a pulley cause the engine to vibrate at intervals? I noticed if I put it in park the rattle is gone but if I put it in drive it rattles and then goes away... pls help 🙏 😢
Sure but so could a lot of other things. You can't guess, have to start isolating the issue. Could be bad, engine internals, could be simple, pulley or engine mounts.
I like what you did but what if the noise coming from the serpentine belt because it's vibrating a lot I change it the pulley tensioner and the serpentine belt and it still making vibrating in the belt causing rattling noise mine is Altima 2012 thank you
My 06 dodge charger sounds just like this but has a slight knocking noise form the crankshaft pulley but I think it does need new rod bearings too got too be that
Anthony Quinn I have sometimes after starting my car cold and driving somewhere turning it off and starting it up after the engine has warmed up it sometimes stutters but always starts it doesn’t always do this only about 15% of the time it does but it always starts and drives fine I am suspect that it’s because it’s getting old now it’s a 2007 mk3 the last of the mk3 and has done 380,000km so it’s quite high kms
Question: I have a 466 Ducky workaround pedal star with a 300 MGH stroke pusher, and every time I flush what they used to call the fortune head, the rack assembly next to the over chassis runs too hot to allow the trans conductor room to rake the field jack (casing on or off). Does anyone have any idea how to get the hard stand to quit pushing the belt connections past 16?
hello graig's I also have a strange sound like a noise of pebbles I would say even as a really very weak chain noise between 1000 and 2000 rpm only rolling window open closed window we hear nothing beyond 2000 turns the noise disappears when I am stopped engine ignited I accelerate in a vacuum the noise is not present the noise and the only rolling between 1000 and 2000 rpm can you help me do you perhaps you also the same on your car maybe all engines duratec the bottom maybe The echoes of the engine bje am a French in France not a lot of duratec like I've been on TH-cam for a long time I need your opinion can you look on all vehicles if you have the same noise thank you very much
My w212 is making this sound and I can move and hear a small clunk just by hand with the idle tensioner so I’m hoping it that. Because I don’t think I have Knock but more of timing chain slap in my head haha. But hopefully this helps.
If you can move a pulley by hand with belt tension still on it, I'd say it's definitely going to be making some sort of noise. They're cheap, replace it and see what remains.
My car has been starting to sound something like this i guess and my brother said it might be rod knock but the other day when i went to go clean the interior i turned it on to see if it did but its not to loud and when i pressed the pedal i only went up maybe 100rpms and then the noise went away and it sounded normal and later when i finished cleaning my car i turned it back on and went up to 2000rpms and i could hear it a little more but going to higher rpms it sounds like it goes away, also the engine feels like it shakes a little bit, could it be rod knock? Or can the timing belt tensioner cause the shake too?
Mine disappeared after replacing parts Maf sensor, coil packs, check vacuum if theres any leak, spark plugs and reset ecu. Can’t remember which one it was. Did a lot of testing.
The water pump had gone and it was a little noisy, but I had to replace the alternator pulley too. To be fair I have replaced almost every pulley on the belt now, they were all end of life.
Nice! You're going through the same stuff i have before. Can't wait for the next vid :) and since you already changed the power steering pump, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley, there is only one bearing left that MIGHT give off funny noises. The alternator pulley, that has a one way bearing on it, but i hope all gets fixed with the waterpump. Cheers
And the air-con. They both feel ok and I don't think they're making noise. I already replaced the alternator years ago with one from a manual car that has the 'free-wheeling' pulley (the auto's didn't from factory)!
this video is very old so i dont expect any replies but i own a 1989 Cadillac sedan deville and just recently i got off the freeway and my car started smoking (i figured out i had a coolant leak and this has happened before so i knew what the smoke was luckily i was a minute away from home) but then after that happened my gas pedal started making a rattling noise everytime i pressed it and also the coolant leak seemed to have sprayed because there was coolant all over the left side of my engine i guess my question is does anybody know specifically what this issue is? im trying to avoid going to the mechanic but if it sounds bad then i might as well ill gladly do my best to answer any questions also!
I have a Mondy MK3 (an early one) 2.0 Autobox Ghia X Estate. And I also have this awful 'tinny' rattle noise.. very loud when engine is hot and I've been driving a while. No noise when cold! It's definitely on the auxillary side .. but when I stop and say put car in neutral the noise is not so bad, likewise in park (not always). Put in drive again and the noise becomes apparent again big time!! Bloody annoying!! Turned heads etc... Any help anyone before I investigate further??
It does it when it revs in neutral? Take the belt off as explained in the video and see if it still does it, then you will know pulleys or something else.
I would be terrified to remove any part out of my block, having the mechanical skills of a dodo. However I am learning since the noises in my car give me a lot of stress lately. I am stuck between replacing my car on the one hand, and calculating (guessing) how long my current engine will run without completely falling apart. I am not even sure it is safe to drive anymore.
😂 I drive a taxi and engine noises can seriously affect my mental health. I’ve had to learn to ignore them as I’m driving for 10 hours a day. If the engine blows up, it blows up. Fate will decide that.
So my engine sounds like it has a bad rod knock what are the chances you guys think the it could just be a timing belt ? Note the knocking only happens when I accelerate. Also note there are no codes on the dash
Nice. Liked that. I'm looking for help with this problem. Writeup below I've used on Nissan forums. I'm thinking my issue may be a failed hydraulic timing belt tensioner. Any ideas or experience you have is greatly appreciated! Hello all! This is my first Nissan Pathfinder. I have always wanted one since the late 1990s. It's a 1998 SE 3.3L, automatic transmission, 167,000 miles on it. I got it at an estate sale for $2,000. It has a loud knock or tap that happens part-time and so far it's not been resolved. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me to anything to check next, or describe if you had similar problems with yours. I've run the motor minimally...only to troubleshoot. Here's what it does and what I've done: 1. When it's first started, it knocks for less than 1 second and then gets entirely quiet. I hear maybe 2 knocks when it first starts. Then, when the motor is accelerated to 2000 RPMs it begins to knock and it keeps knocking until 3000ish RPMs. It increases in speed as the RPMs increase. If I let off the accelerator it stops knocking. When it's higher than 3,000 RPM it goes away. So it's in this midrange RPM the knock is present. It does this sitting still, or driving it. The rig was very sheltered it's whole life from what I can tell. It was driven lightly by an elderly lady. It's in immaculate condition, inside and out. Garaged. Paint and interior is perfect. Motor starts, idles and runs great other than the knock. Oil is full. I dropped the oil pan and checked the main and rod bearings. There was not any play. I changed them anyways. Noise persisted. There was some material in the pan's bottom, about 1/3 tablespoon (1 teaspoon) of what seemed to be fine wear material. Which I would think is normal for 167,000 miles. 2. It has a P1400 error code, for the EGR solenoid. I have not chased that yet. I don't find where this would cause a knock though. 3. The transmission fluid is 1 to 2 quarts low (based on my guess from stick reading), but the noise does not seem to be coming from the transmission, and the vehicle moves and drives fine. No slippage. What could be causing this part-time knock? Hydraulic lifters? Timing belt slap? Harmonic balancer? Cracked flexplate? The noise seems too loud to be the lifters, and doesn't do it at low RPMs like lifters usually do. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
@@diegonavyhotmail sorry, "looks" like the same. changed from cheap aftermarket tensioner to OEM, the tensioner still vibrates. The old tensioner had bad bearings but it was solid, didn't vibrate. Google told me that some vibration is normal, but I really couldn't tell what normal or what not. The belt doesn't looks like it slacks under load when the AC is on. It doesn't make any funny noises but I just couldn't stop thinking about it. Video recording couldn't show the vibration probably because of the frame rate. Which means that any of the pulley is causing the vibration or it was an out of spec aftermarket belt. Car guy told it could probably be the water pump - which is plausible because I replaced the radiator last year. I think I'll try changing the belt with OEM first. The aftermarket belt was more expensive. It was a mistake to buy any aftermarket parts that attaches to your engine.
I haven't had time to check my noise bit I think it's bearings from a pully. I just chopped the aircon pully belt cos it's quick and easy and can buy new one. And I don't really use it, But it's not that. Took it too local tuner paid him for his time to tell me what he thinks it is.he said small end bearing... He told me to go to his "friend" that's a engine builder /fixer that so happens to have the same engine in storage that I have, he said it's internal... so quoted me $4500 and mentioned he had the same engine I can have for $5500 (he got for free because someone gave him the engine to put new cams in and 5 years later never asked for it back).... I really do hope its just a pully so I can fix it myself and say to myself, fuck you! Haha The engine is a rb25det neo and I put it in a 1998 gu patrol
More on the belt & pulleys ~
* Replacing the belt & idler/tensioner: th-cam.com/video/ItND7vPozv8/w-d-xo.html
* More on the belt tensioner: th-cam.com/video/mOm42H0J3iY/w-d-xo.html
* Water pump: th-cam.com/video/cj8JBMJxibQ/w-d-xo.html
* Over-running alternator pulley (OAP): th-cam.com/video/XYi_w3ieGUo/w-d-xo.html
Amazon links for the Duratec HE (check your part no.s):
* Serpentine belts & pulleys ~ US: amzn.to/2Gugnmh | UK: amzn.to/2GLgt8o
* 6PK2225 as featured ~ US: amzn.to/2TNQpNC | UK: amzn.to/2tpyl0v
* Idler as featured ~ US: amzn.to/2BCt0aW | UK: amzn.to/2IgAQg6
* Tensioner featured (Continental # 49405): amzn.to/2VFScG2
* More tensioners ~ US: amzn.to/2S6gW6R | UK: amzn.to/2SFdgy6
* Water pump ~ amzn.to/2XLTdfC
* Or, for generic pumps the Ford part # is 1142427 ~ US: amzn.to/2ZCqbAS | UK: amzn.to/2W5qSAE
* Alternator over-run pulley, try searching ~ US: amzn.to/2lvN0H6 | UK: amzn.to/2lvSVfr
, xx zzz z xx xx z xx, xx
Oh man, found this video after looking at like 40 other ones. So friggin smooth. So many trash videos on youtube regarding cars and repairs. Keep up the good work.
Indeed!
Too bad TH-cam quit showing how many dislikes a video has so you can easily assume which videos are not going to be very helpful for what you’re trying to figure out
@@godawgs1236 There's an extension called "Return TH-cam Dislike" that fixes this, so that you can see the actual like/dislike amount
Fantastic idea taking off the belt to locate the problem. Never would have thought about that
Excellent video! Clear, concise, to the point. I never considered running the engine without a belt attached to isolate a noise.
Having the same issue with my acura tl and I can hear the knock more inside the cabin, specifically accelerating slowly. Because cause when I accelerate fast, I can't hear the knock. And I figured it was the serpentine belt tensioner pully. This video helped me more too. So thank you.
Yes i'm having the same issues was you able to solve the problem.
@@dsmiley250 yes i figured it was the tensioner.
@@israelreynoso9006 thank you so much i have the same problem with my Acura tl.
This is exactly what my Ford Duratec is doing , thanks for sharing👍
Lovely video from my guy who sounds like a university professor where I work. But he knows his stuff😊
Hi thanks for the great idea removing the belt for the troubleshooting purpose. This is good to eliminate the issue between belt mechanical and engine internal.
Disconnecting the belt? Genius!! Going to try that today I am losing my mind.. Great video tyvm
I didn't know I could disconnected the belt to look for the noise, that's great. Thank you
your videos are clean af
Finally found the same symptoms of my car, thanks for the video!
Had a knocking sound at around 2500 or 3000 rpm and sometimes at idle. Did some checks on the engine and couldn’t really find anything out of the ordinary apart from my worn out pas pump (but I already knew about that one) one morning I was letting my car warm up and I was standing outside listening and the sound seemed to be coming from under the car so because it was only warm not hot I held my exhaust tip and the noise disappeared, let go again and I heard the noise. Turned out that it was just my exhaust rattling cause my exhaust hangers I’m guessing are about as old as the car and have never been changed. Stuck some new ones on and haven’t heard the sound since so keep in mind that the noises you hear aren’t always directly related to your engine
Great video. This is what I needed for further confirmation on my tensioner
Thanks for the advice... This might help me in more ways than you can imagine. I will do what you did, again thank you.
Great vid. I drove my car for about 3 mins with no belt to get it home. The power steering also stops working :)
Straight to the point, nice.
Had this kind of thing with a brand new Lexus timing belt idler pulley. The type of engine with three accessory drive belts. What a game, especially after changing the timing belt and putting it all back together already!
you can also use a wooden dowel metal vibrates too much so you can use a wooden dowel put it on the part you think the noise is coming from make sure not to put it on parts that are rotating this works really good because metal vibrates too much and the wood does not vibrate very much and will give you a true or sound to find out engine noise also the man in the video is correct about taking the belt off to see if your getting engine noise somewhere else like in the motor itself sometimes it is necessary when working on a car trying to figure out what engine noise is coming from sometimes it is a good idea to cut the car on jack stands to eliminate road noise I hope this information that I gave you about the wooden dowel will help you locating noises Within the motor or exterior parts of your vehicle including transmission differentials Drive axles bearing noises in the lower part of the motor and upper part of the motor and valve covers additional accessories you're able to check with the wooden dowel like the alternator the water pump air conditioning power steering pump and pulleys Honda motor garters and other types of motors the Peace of wood dowel rod works very well
Put a new belt and tensioner on made the water pump noise for sure. Sometimes noises aren't so obvious until you fix something. I hate when that happens, makes you think you screwed up.
100000%. Replaced timing chain and vtc actuator on my Accord and have been hyper aware. Getting a rattling sound that makes me think i potentially screwed something up. But its a tensioner or something else
Fantastic idea. And he speaks perfect English
Man, you have all the answers.
Dude. Thank you. Same shit here. ‘91 Rivera. Same issues. Saved me a heart attack.
Great video, it was super helpful! I spent hours looking at other videos and this one was the one that made the difference! Thanks for investing your time to help out
you are a life saver
It always seems to happen like that! You fix one problem and uncover another one. Good video and diagnostic, though !
I guess it's possible that the new tensioner accelerated the failure of the water pump bearing.
Murphy
Slaw
Sometimes you uncover multiple problems just by fixing one freakin thing. Old with new, like new wine in old wineskins... Lol
Well, this sounds pretty similar to my noise on m9r renault. Its the original belt, never changed. First i thought its the timing chain which is under a cover at the same location. My mechanic said yesterday it doesnt sound like the chain. I should try getting of the belt as you did. So i will try this 👌
Thanks buddy
How did you get on? I have the same issue with my m9r engine too it's an a renault espace. Been concerned its the timing chain but could easily be one of the aux belt pulleys
@@kevinhoyes3344 For me it was the CrankPulley of the aux belt. You can easily see it if you turn your wheel completly right and just open the plastic cover behind the right front wheel. If your noises is at specific rpm (for me it was about 1500rpm) you can see it shaking while it makes noises.
To change it you need a special tool to counterhold which i bought for about 30€
Same parts and issue I replaced on my 96 k1500 with a 350 Chevy. Thinking it’s either my harmonic balancer or the crank going out smh. Issue started shortly after replacing pulleys. Harmonic is ordered and here guess we will see in due time 😅
This is why you ALWAYS check all pulleys for wobbliness, loosening and bearing noise and replace if need before you reinstall the new tension belt and idle pulley so that way you don't work twice!
Similar issue..replaced a lot of parts..some needed others not so much..tonight I ran car with belt off..same vibration and rattle noise...looked at harmonic balancer ,seemed to have a slight wobble,actually not even sure,but I ordered one off Amazon and are keeping fingers crossed this is the problem..
Good video for rookie wrenchers👍
Great staright to the point video. SUBSCRIBED
This is exactly what I’ve been dealing with my car, just started doordashing and a new job 30 minutes away from home. My water pump is new so I knew it wasn’t that but this pulley has shaken my engine so much the cover cracked.
Just got a diagnosis for it today, definitely not driving it anymore until it’s fixed
@@drusilladean5349 what was the diagnosis ?
I kept having problems with harmonic balancer pulley. Cheaply made. The noise was shocking but I agree with taking the belt off. I ran it with it off and was so much worse cos it wasn't under tension so was vibrating more. It's a quick east check for the harmonic wheel aka crank shaft wheel too. Also never buy cheap and try and get a genuine part. I've been through 3 so far.
Good advice for tensioners and pulleys about to fail.
Thanks for this. I’m getting a weird engine noise and I suspect either a pulley or alternator bearings as the noise only occurs under load (adding extra electrical load makes it worse). The noise is most noticeable when the car is driven so should it be okay to drive it for a few yards?
Hello i have this exact sound on a new Renault Captur 1.0 GPL since the second month of ownersip with 2500km on the clock. The specific motor is 3cyl. When visited the local dealer he concluded that was the top right engine mount. When replaced the sound disappeared for 40 days or approximately 2800km and then appeared again. Visited again the local dealer who then blamed the DMF but advised me not to replace it. Since then i have replaced two more time the specific engine mount but the problems keeps recurring after some time and km. Another dealer proposed to do what you describe in order to isolate the three pulleys crankshaft, water pump and alternator. Not to forget the motor has no belt tensioner. He replaced the waterpump but nothing changed. Do you think that it can be the crankshaft or the alternator pulley? Or can it be something else that comes up to your mind. The sound is heard clearly when car decelerates from 1500 rpm exactly at 1000 rpm, when due to the 3 cyl the car vibrates more as a trrrrrrrr (the sound heard on your video after 0'39") but also on idle with a different frequency. It is heard clearly in the cars interior and no so clearly when out of the car.
This video answered all my questions!
How long will the mechanic take to fix the belt issues?
Replacing a belt or a simple pulley on this engine would be 1-2 hrs. Others can be more involved.
That crankshaft pulley it's modified ( welded ) ?
how long can i let the engine running if i removed the belt?
Should be ok for a minute or so.
Got issue ford fiesta 03... rumble sound like pulleys wear ? Also cars misfiring ? No engine light on ...
Would squealing in damp weather be another symptom along with a ticking noise to indicate checking pulleys etc, car has almost 160k kms and hasn't had any timing adjustment yet.
Did you find out what caused the knocking sound? I went through your other videos but couldn't find it. I'm hearing the exact same sound on my Mondeo. To me, it seems to be coming from the alternator but I'm not completely sure.
Did you investigate that 1 second rattle at start up? I have the same noise on a 2002 Mondeo which only happens on a warm start, never on a cold start.
I have the same on a 2013 Scion FR-S n it’s honestly tripping me out
@@cHeile On mine it’s looking like one of the hydraulic tappets draining out. I’ve eliminated everything else...
I’ve had a few of these cars, not had it on any except this one.
Probably gonna live with it but yeah pretty annoying.
Alternator OAP (pulley). If you have an OAP then check it. If you've eliminated the whole belt by disconnecting it per the video then carry on.
@@cHeile Have you fixed the issue since?
@@msk_xx8085 currently in the process of an engine rebuild
I had a weird one which took a while to isolate. It was a loud rattle at idle which turned out to be the spring inside the tensioner. I’ve subsequently heard it on another car so could be fairly common on the duratec. Tricky as all the bearings were fine and had me thinking it might be the cam chain at one point.
Yes it's very common. I replaced it for the 2nd time, shown in the other video, but I think I will do another on it specifically.
holy shit I think this is happening to me
@30YearOldBunta Same here! I hope that's it at least. I have owned my 2001 Mondeo since 2009 and I've never replaced the belt. So I've driven 211.000km (it has now done 276.000km) with this belt and I'm not sure if it was ever replaced before. It is a very good belt though, shame to replace it😂.
Water pump is on the other side? Or what duratec is this?
Omg finally know what that fing noise was. Thank you.
Absolute fuckin cowboy leaving the belt near everything spinning 😂😂 good man
How do you take out out the bolts next to the Harmonic Balancer to take out the Belts ? I had a 2001 Toyota Camry 2.2 Liter . I tried taking them bolts out to loosen the bolts but it looks like I have to take more bolts more than two ? I loosen one bolts already .But how many bolts should take out to loosen the belts .?.
I hear the same knock when I’m on stop and in gear or when in park. Do you think it’s the tensioner?
Dose these share the same components as the ford 2.0 St150
I have that exact loud knock when starting for a little bit more time but it completely goes away after 2 seconds on a cold start. I plan on changing my water pump, both belts and water pump and tensioner hopefully this helps!
Alternator pulley. See my later video on it.
It depends on the car, some cars use just an electric water pump to cool the engine, some cars use the timing chain or toothed belt to drive the water pump
I bought a wrx which I think had rid knock. Planning to rebuild and seen no AC belt
Could also be the alternator when it is un attached to the belt how do you know it is not one of the reasons?
When my car is in neutral I don't hear any squeaks but when I have it in drive or reverse I can hear the squeak when accelerating.
Hello Craig.
I recently replaced a rattling belt tensioner in my 2002 mbz c320........As well as a new belt for good measure. the rattling went away. but now it is back ????? anyone got any ideas ????? I can clearly see that the spring in the tensioner is not keeping two surfaces apart and that is what I see is making contact and causing the rattle. BUT, I thought a new tensioner with better spring and a new Belt would solve the rattle......as I said, it did, though only for a moth or so.......
I also have replaced the water pump in the last year...........
You are a bright lad
Can someone please help me 😭😭 I have a dodge neon srt4 and for whatever reason ,only at 2k rpm’s + will the car make a rattle noise and it increases with rpm. Temperature of motor doesn’t matter. It also only seems to happen while accelerating , if I’m decelerating I can’t seem to hear it . If you have any ideas I’d greatly appreciate it 🙏🏾
I was getting this noise for sometime.. thinking it was cam chain, valves, taps, fuel pump pressure, top end knock, oil pressure. Got the belt changed after 137k miles! (It lasted but was on the way out) now have a bigger nosie when bonnet up. I guess it's a pulley, on it way out. As reving the engine sounds perfect! Does the aux belt, always go at one speed or go fast when underload? As I have a noise and would like to think it's a pulley, gearbox on its way out. Drives fine and pulls great. Just noise's at 140k on a 2L duratec ST150
Great video really helped
PLEASE HELP I have a silverado and on cold start it tics for only 1 second but does not sound quite like a lifter tic, looked at so many vids and cant find the culprit
THANK YOU 🙏🏻
Thanks
Did you ever find out what was causing the ticking/rattling sound?? As I have the exact same thing on mine, any help would really be appreciated
Mix of pulleys, I had to replace idler, tensioner, and I was getting a bad knocking out of the alternator OAP - see other linked videos.
Great vid. girlfriends ford laser has the exact same noise
Thanks for this. Good advice. I am not sure whether my auxiliary belt rattle is water pump, AC clutch or alternator clutch. Waiting for it to get worse !
Would a pulley cause the engine to vibrate at intervals? I noticed if I put it in park the rattle is gone but if I put it in drive it rattles and then goes away... pls help 🙏 😢
Sure but so could a lot of other things. You can't guess, have to start isolating the issue. Could be bad, engine internals, could be simple, pulley or engine mounts.
Excellent
Can we do this on a 2007 crown Vic ?
Can i drive the car wthout the brlt connected?
I like what you did but what if the noise coming from the serpentine belt because it's vibrating a lot I change it the pulley tensioner and the serpentine belt and it still making vibrating in the belt causing rattling noise mine is Altima 2012 thank you
My 06 dodge charger sounds just like this but has a slight knocking noise form the crankshaft pulley but I think it does need new rod bearings too got too be that
Explain very well thanx great video
Im praying that this is my issue on my 2013 Impala 😢
Hi
Quick question..have you ever had a warm start issue with the mondeo
Anthony Quinn I have sometimes after starting my car cold and driving somewhere turning it off and starting it up after the engine has warmed up it sometimes stutters but always starts it doesn’t always do this only about 15% of the time it does but it always starts and drives fine I am suspect that it’s because it’s getting old now it’s a 2007 mk3 the last of the mk3 and has done 380,000km so it’s quite high kms
Question:
I have a 466 Ducky workaround pedal star with a 300 MGH stroke pusher,
and every time I flush what they used to call the fortune head,
the rack assembly next to the over chassis runs too hot to allow
the trans conductor room to rake the field jack (casing on or off).
Does anyone have any idea how to get the hard stand to quit
pushing the belt connections past 16?
hello graig's I also have a strange sound like a noise of pebbles I would say even as a really very weak chain noise between 1000 and 2000 rpm only rolling window open closed window we hear nothing beyond 2000 turns the noise disappears when I am stopped engine ignited I accelerate in a vacuum the noise is not present the noise and the only rolling between 1000 and 2000 rpm can you help me do you perhaps you also the same on your car maybe all engines duratec the bottom maybe The echoes of the engine bje am a French in France not a lot of duratec like I've been on TH-cam for a long time I need your opinion can you look on all vehicles if you have the same noise thank you very much
My w212 is making this sound and I can move and hear a small clunk just by hand with the idle tensioner so I’m hoping it that. Because I don’t think I have Knock but more of timing chain slap in my head haha. But hopefully this helps.
If you can move a pulley by hand with belt tension still on it, I'd say it's definitely going to be making some sort of noise. They're cheap, replace it and see what remains.
It’s the idle tensioner in my case.
My car has been starting to sound something like this i guess and my brother said it might be rod knock but the other day when i went to go clean the interior i turned it on to see if it did but its not to loud and when i pressed the pedal i only went up maybe 100rpms and then the noise went away and it sounded normal and later when i finished cleaning my car i turned it back on and went up to 2000rpms and i could hear it a little more but going to higher rpms it sounds like it goes away, also the engine feels like it shakes a little bit, could it be rod knock? Or can the timing belt tensioner cause the shake too?
Take the belt off and see if it makes a difference, as demo'ed in the video. That way you know for sure.
@@CraigsDIY ok thanks
The symptoms are very similiar to a bad alternator one-way clutch.
I think you might be right. The water pump was making some noise but that knocking is still there after replacing it.
Do you hear it only when engine is warmed? Cause i hear the same noise when the engine is warm.
Have you solved it? Mine is the same.
Mine disappeared after replacing parts Maf sensor, coil packs, check vacuum if theres any leak, spark plugs and reset ecu. Can’t remember which one it was. Did a lot of testing.
@@vicheatalk9249 I also replaced my timing belt pulleys. Im not sure anymore which one fixed it lol
@@beatles lot of works. Thank for answering. I will try changing my alternator first.
@@vicheatalk9249 I would suggest start with inexpensive parts one at a time.
Did the water pump fix it? I have same sound. Just curious
The water pump had gone and it was a little noisy, but I had to replace the alternator pulley too. To be fair I have replaced almost every pulley on the belt now, they were all end of life.
Everything you did wrong in this video is just what i did wrong so now i got similar symptoms
2nd comment after my rant, but can you imagine people paying for a engine rebuild and its just a $30 pully if that
10/10
Nice! You're going through the same stuff i have before. Can't wait for the next vid :) and since you already changed the power steering pump, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley, there is only one bearing left that MIGHT give off funny noises. The alternator pulley, that has a one way bearing on it, but i hope all gets fixed with the waterpump. Cheers
And the air-con. They both feel ok and I don't think they're making noise. I already replaced the alternator years ago with one from a manual car that has the 'free-wheeling' pulley (the auto's didn't from factory)!
this video is very old so i dont expect any replies but i own a 1989 Cadillac sedan deville and just recently i got off the freeway and my car started smoking (i figured out i had a coolant leak and this has happened before so i knew what the smoke was luckily i was a minute away from home) but then after that happened my gas pedal started making a rattling noise everytime i pressed it and also the coolant leak seemed to have sprayed because there was coolant all over the left side of my engine i guess my question is does anybody know specifically what this issue is? im trying to avoid going to the mechanic but if it sounds bad then i might as well ill gladly do my best to answer any questions also!
can you feel the vibrations this causes inside the car?
Noise more than vibration.
When i rev the engine on my 72 jaguar the noise sounds like a loud knocking or grinding i hope the engine isnt going bad :(
This is what my car sounds like. I hope its this and not a timing chain or rod knock.
I have a Mondy MK3 (an early one) 2.0 Autobox Ghia X Estate. And I also have this awful 'tinny' rattle noise.. very loud when engine is hot and I've been driving a while. No noise when cold! It's definitely on the auxillary side .. but when I stop and say put car in neutral the noise is not so bad, likewise in park (not always). Put in drive again and the noise becomes apparent again big time!! Bloody annoying!! Turned heads etc... Any help anyone before I investigate further??
It does it when it revs in neutral? Take the belt off as explained in the video and see if it still does it, then you will know pulleys or something else.
Belt tentioner
I would be terrified to remove any part out of my block, having the mechanical skills of a dodo. However I am learning since the noises in my car give me a lot of stress lately. I am stuck between replacing my car on the one hand, and calculating (guessing) how long my current engine will run without completely falling apart. I am not even sure it is safe to drive anymore.
😂 I drive a taxi and engine noises can seriously affect my mental health. I’ve had to learn to ignore them as I’m driving for 10 hours a day. If the engine blows up, it blows up. Fate will decide that.
So my engine sounds like it has a bad rod knock what are the chances you guys think the it could just be a timing belt ? Note the knocking only happens when I accelerate. Also note there are no codes on the dash
You need to pull the belt off and isolate the noise as explained.
Nice. Liked that. I'm looking for help with this problem. Writeup below I've used on Nissan forums. I'm thinking my issue may be a failed hydraulic timing belt tensioner. Any ideas or experience you have is greatly appreciated!
Hello all! This is my first Nissan Pathfinder. I have always wanted one since the late 1990s. It's a 1998 SE 3.3L, automatic transmission, 167,000 miles on it. I got it at an estate sale for $2,000.
It has a loud knock or tap that happens part-time and so far it's not been resolved. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me to anything to check next, or describe if you had similar problems with yours. I've run the motor minimally...only to troubleshoot. Here's what it does and what I've done:
1. When it's first started, it knocks for less than 1 second and then gets entirely quiet. I hear maybe 2 knocks when it first starts. Then, when the motor is accelerated to 2000 RPMs it begins to knock and it keeps knocking until 3000ish RPMs. It increases in speed as the RPMs increase. If I let off the accelerator it stops knocking. When it's higher than 3,000 RPM it goes away. So it's in this midrange RPM the knock is present. It does this sitting still, or driving it.
The rig was very sheltered it's whole life from what I can tell. It was driven lightly by an elderly lady. It's in immaculate condition, inside and out. Garaged. Paint and interior is perfect.
Motor starts, idles and runs great other than the knock.
Oil is full. I dropped the oil pan and checked the main and rod bearings. There was not any play. I changed them anyways. Noise persisted. There was some material in the pan's bottom, about 1/3 tablespoon (1 teaspoon) of what seemed to be fine wear material. Which I would think is normal for 167,000 miles.
2. It has a P1400 error code, for the EGR solenoid. I have not chased that yet. I don't find where this would cause a knock though.
3. The transmission fluid is 1 to 2 quarts low (based on my guess from stick reading), but the noise does not seem to be coming from the transmission, and the vehicle moves and drives fine. No slippage.
What could be causing this part-time knock?
Hydraulic lifters? Timing belt slap? Harmonic balancer? Cracked flexplate? The noise seems too loud to be the lifters, and doesn't do it at low RPMs like lifters usually do.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
disconect the battery n run it like that
Sounds like the same as my car. Changed tensioner and belt, suddenly the tensioner vibrates like mad.
So your vibration got worse? did you upload a video?
@@diegonavyhotmail sorry, "looks" like the same. changed from cheap aftermarket tensioner to OEM, the tensioner still vibrates. The old tensioner had bad bearings but it was solid, didn't vibrate. Google told me that some vibration is normal, but I really couldn't tell what normal or what not. The belt doesn't looks like it slacks under load when the AC is on. It doesn't make any funny noises but I just couldn't stop thinking about it. Video recording couldn't show the vibration probably because of the frame rate.
Which means that any of the pulley is causing the vibration or it was an out of spec aftermarket belt.
Car guy told it could probably be the water pump - which is plausible because I replaced the radiator last year. I think I'll try changing the belt with OEM first. The aftermarket belt was more expensive. It was a mistake to buy any aftermarket parts that attaches to your engine.
@@diegonavyhotmail found it. it was the water pump bearing coupled with worn out timing belt.
@@diegonavyhotmail scratch that. the vibration is back. i just have to assume it was normal.
If it’s gone vibration will appears
No point changing singular Parts do the whole thing
I haven't had time to check my noise bit I think it's bearings from a pully. I just chopped the aircon pully belt cos it's quick and easy and can buy new one. And I don't really use it, But it's not that. Took it too local tuner paid him for his time to tell me what he thinks it is.he said small end bearing...
He told me to go to his "friend" that's a engine builder /fixer that so happens to have the same engine in storage that I have, he said it's internal... so quoted me $4500 and mentioned he had the same engine I can have for $5500 (he got for free because someone gave him the engine to put new cams in and 5 years later never asked for it back)....
I really do hope its just a pully so I can fix it myself and say to myself, fuck you! Haha
The engine is a rb25det neo and I put it in a 1998 gu patrol