Hi David! Welcome! I’m so glad you’re finding my videos helpful 👍🤗. Giving support to new worm wranglers was my main goal when I started my channel. I had so many questions myself and had a hard time finding answers. I still have questions 😆 but now the learning and sharing is better and more fun! Thanks for watching 😎🪱❤️
Good call on scrounging buckets and containers to use. Goodwill is an excellent source for paper shredders, coffee grinders, blenders and food processors, always reliable for those machines, year-round. I use worm casting tea for inoculation into the bedding for preparing it. The leftovers from the teabags are used for baiting hatchling (all of them in the container 100%). The leftovers are also used as a top feed in bed-run bins. Another thing I use alone or along with the casting tea is Pond-Enzymes, that stuff works amazingly well. One of the bait growers I watch on TH-cam is experimenting with Chlorella as an inoculant it is showing promising results for inoculation and providing a plethora of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. One of the vegetable and produce farmers I watch in Thailand uses homemade effective microbes and DIY photosynthetic microorganisms for inoculating his bedding. That also works excellent, that farmer does a ton of pure castings every 14-days using ANCs (he does all the sifting by hand on a tarp). You are putting out valuable information Jayne, keep the great content coming 👍👍 Enjoy worms and have a great Day!
Hi Wormsforlife! Thanks! It’s good to remind people they we don’t need to buy new every time. There’s lots of great sources for reliable cost effective tools to make worming even more fun and affordable 👍. I have a video saved on how to make EM. It’s definitely something I want to try!! There’s so many new - or old ways becoming new again - to tap into. I think it’s great to get out of the single lane rut we all often find ourselves in. I’m continually amazed at these little hacks I and others come up with ❤️. All I want for Christmas is more time to spend on exploring all these great options 🙄. I hope others read your comments and have the ability to check out some of your shared ideas. Thanks for sharing your vast insights ❤️🪱❤️
I have a very simplified version of this technique going on my back porch. My worm bin has drainage holes in it. There is another bin under it. to catch any excess moisture. I have a layer of shredded paper in that second bin that I use for bedding when I need it. Then I refill the bottom bin w/ shredded paper so it can get a head start. Some worms escape through the holes, and they can live in the shredded paper.
One trick that I’ve been doing is when I’m done preparing my pre-compost I’ll dig two holes on each side to the bottom and leave it. This allows oxygen to penetrate the bedding and avoid anaerobic conditions. In a sense it’s a no till method, the lazy way and not having to turn the bedding all the time. I have done this a few times with great success and the compost smells great. I let it sit for 1-2 months with no turning. I also use an auger attachment on my drill when I initially prepare the bedding to take the strain off my arms and hands on turning it, great hack :)
Hi again Kyle! I like that idea! Especially for bigger totes. It’s the PVC method without the pvc. Excellent idea! I did a short on me using the drill attachment to mix/turn the pre-compost. I still had to get into the edges with my hands but it did cut down the work effort and time. Thank you for stopping by and sharing!! 👍❤️🪱
Hello! There’s all the difference in the world between having one friend and none. And it totally counts if that friend is a spouse or a relative too. Pets are close, very close, but having a human to discuss things with is better 😊. With internet access to groups like this we can have friends - or at least acquaintances with shared interests and that goes a long way too! I hope you’ll join in often on discussions, share what you’re doing and thinking and be a part of this supportive community ❤️🪱❤️. I’m glad you’re here! 🤗
@@EZLivin-zk4gm I’m not exactly a half full glass kind of girl. And definitely not a Pollyanna. But life is full of unexpected surprises and you never know what tomorrow brings, especially when you absolutely think you know what tomorrow brings! It’s never too late. It’s never over until a final breath. I hope you are happy or find happiness and peace. However that is defined by you, which is all that matters. 🤗
I had a couple of questions to ask that had puzzled me for years now, but after watching you precomposting videos, you have given the answers. Namely, why do so many people cover their worm bins with damp paper and then a plastic sheet. How's the air to get in ? Nature doesn't do it that way. I'm going to sew the mesh I already have into a pillow shape and fill it with dry bedding. Sorry, little critters and knats, there is plenty of room for you elsewhere. Jayne, your videos are the most progressive and thorough I have seen. Thank you dear Lady.
Thank you Tim! I’m so glad you’re finding the answer you need 😍. Understanding WHY we do what we do helps us remember the information and also opens us up to discovering better ways to do thing a. We understand the goal, the purpose. We’re not just doing what we’re told! To expand a bit on the damp paper towel and plastic coverings over worm bins…. I use them to keep moisture in primarily. My indoor humidity fluctuates a lot 😡. Right now it’s in the low 20% which is quite dry. It’s great as my damp castings are drying quickly for sifting ❤️. Other times my humidity is in the upper 40-50s% and castings can take weeks to dry down 😳😖. Having the paper covering (which is also a food source for the worms as biota will colonize it) and plastic helps stabilize bin moisture. It reduces moisture swings so the worms have a more consistent environment. Also it’s good to keep in mind that while worms breathe air like we do, they don’t require the same amount of air as we do to be comfortable. If we were buried in dirt/soil, we would perish from suffocation. For worms that’s their home! So a LOOSE covering is a-ok. Thanks for bringing these points up for further discussion 😊😡🪱
You can also use duff instead of castings to kickstart the bedding. We live across from a wild park, so Landon retrieved several handfuls for me at one point when I wanted to make matured bedding. ~ Sandra
Hi Sandra! Absolutely! The canned veggie juice is probably the most easily accessible for everyone. I did want to strip it back as far as possible so everyone can give it a try with very little time, effort or cost 👍 Thanks for stopping by ❤️🪱❤️
@@CarlosAnselmo-be4nw Hi. Carlos! Duff is the light fluffy layer of forest floor usually found right under the top layer of fallen leaves. Unless you have access to a native forest it’s not something you’ll have readily available to you. Sandra is fortunate to have duff. 🪱🪱
Hi Peggy! The pool is great to have! We often walk right into it after working outside just to get a quick cool down on our core temps!! It’s brutal out 😳. It’s hot on the patio too of course under the roof. It’s where I want to put a new worm bin but I’m concerned it’ll still be too hot. I have to do some testing when I get the chance! Your pond area you shared with Mr Bunny last week is lovely too🤗
@RockinWorms We are a half block away from the lake. Our lot is a small residential 50'x 125' with a house in the middle. An easy property to keep up.👍
@@peggyhelblingsgardenwhatyo7920 I always admire the manicured clean look of properties like yours ❤️. But I don’t think at this point we’d be able to give up the space and privacy and animal enjoyment we have. So we live with the jungle 🤗.
Hello! They really do love it. It’s the best change I made for better managing my worm bins, switching to making pre-compost. And since it’s virtually free to make…! Can’t beat it! 👍🪱🪱
Hello! Welcome aboard! Thanks so much for not only watching but commenting too 🤗. I’m so glad you’re finding my videos helpful and informative 👍😊. Do you have worms? What kind? 🪱❤️
Well that makes it easy! The 2 I go to have a kind of small bucket with a sign but I rarely see any bags in it 🤷♂️. I always ask at the counter, waiting my turn if there’s a line. Often now when I walk in someone starts getting the grounds before I say a word 🤣. It’s a great win all the way around 👍🪱❤️
Hi, Jane. I'm from Portugal. Ive started composting some months ago. I just love it. Ive been watching your videos, but this in particular, I've watched 4 or 5 times at least. 😛 I would like to see more like this. There are some expressions you use, im not familiar with, like water vegetables. You used another word, but I can't remember now! Keep up the good work! 💜🪱
Hi Tatiana! Welcome!! I’m very glad to have you join in the fun 🪱❤️. I probably was referring to the liquid that comes off the veggies and fruit I freeze then defrost to feed the worms. It gives off A LOT of liquid. Depending on how you run your worm bins or compost piles, you can add the liquid in directly or divert it for other uses. Generally my worm bins are already moist enough and adding in so much more liquid makes them too wet for my preference. So I’ve started squeezing the defrosted food and so far it’s working better for me 👍🪱❤️ Please ask any questions you have! Sharing is how we all learn and get better 🤗. If you remember the other words o wasn’t clear on, please let me know 😊.
Yea! 🎊🎈🍾 I wish I had thought to do the prepared bedding a few weeks ago when I realized I was going to be really tight on the pre-compost. Ah well. Better late than never 😎.
Hi Julie! Welcome! Yes, the yeast adds a super boost of fungi into the composting bin. Fungi is especially good at breaking down fibers, which is what cardboard and paper are made from. So it accelerates the breakdown and speeds up the timeframe to when the pre-compost is readily digested by the worms when it hits the worm bin. I activate the yeast prior to adding it into the pre-compost tote. Warm water (not hot), a good sprinkle of sugar and the yeast. Not in a metal bowl. Use glass or ceramic. Give it 5-15 minutes to activate and then add it into the tote and mix in. Ok? ❤️🪱🪱
Thanks for the video! Do you have any experience working with the trichoderma mushroom? It is a strong destructor and a mushroom that is safe for humans. I grow this mushroom for plant protection in our garden and it gives excellent results. I want to try to use it to create a litter, I don't know if it's a good idea or not.
I know zero about mushrooms. If they grow on my pre-compost I will feed them to the worms. I get several types that show up. 🤷♂️. I do know one commercial seller that uses mushroom compost as bedding or at least as a mix in to make worm bedding. You can always test out a small bin with the mushroom/mushroom compost and see how your worms like it. If you do, please report back as it would be very helpful to other worm wranglers 👍🤩. I’m sorry I can be more helpful myself 😩😊🪱
Hi Dennis! Excellent! Anything you can do to make worm bedding easier for the worms to eat is beneficial to both them and you! Please keep us updated on how your tote progresses! ❤️🪱❤️
@@cynthiahughes6684 Hi Cynthia! Welcome! The set shred actually serves a few functions. 👍😎 While the pre-compost is heating up it serves to keep the heat and moisture inside the tote. The reproducing biota love heat and good moisture. As they expand their numbers they give off heat and moisture and keeping it in the tote creates a positive feedback loop. Secondly, as the pre-compost cools it becomes very attractive to all sorts of insects and little animals as bedding and nesting material. The dry shred on top couple with a fine weave barrier like the mesh discouraged these insects from invading the pre-compost. It’s not 100% effective but it’s very very good! Ok? 🪱
Hi Linda! That was exactly what I was hoping to get across 🤗. Small scale can be quite effective and basically anything you can do to jump start the breakdown of bedding so the worms can get into it faster is a win all the way around the block 🪱🪱❤️. Thanks for watching 😎
Hi Eleanor! Yep! Either way - adding castings tea and using the castings elsewhere or adding castings from making tea… or what I did in the video and add the whole darn thing in…. It all works to jump start breaking down the bedding and growing even more boots for the wormies to enjoy 👍🪱❤️. Fast and easy and use it when you need to. Perfect interim answer to needing bedding or dipping a toe into the pre-composing world 😎. Thanks for contributing to the discussion 🪱❤️
Hi! I bet they do! What kind of worms do you have? Do you like your tumbler? I think about getting one off of marketplace once in a while but am restraining myself 😆🙄🤩
Hello again! It takes about 7-10 days for these small systems (I’m talking 18-20 gallon totes) to complete the first heat/cool cycle. The pre-compost is perfectly fine to use but is perhaps a bit more on the ‘prepared bedding’ side of things. This means it definitely has lot of bacteria in it but there’s also lots of carbon and nitrogen that hasn’t been broken down hardly at all yet. I’m using 1 cycle pre-compost right now to slow my bins down so I can spend less time harvesting castings and feeding them. If you want more broken down pre-compost that the worms will eat very quickly then do a 2nd heat and cool cycle, which takes another 7-10 days. Once it cools down to 100F - 105F you can aerate it often, put in smaller containers etc to get it quickly below 85F so it can be used as bedding. One great thing about pre-compost is the stuff you don’t use right away continues to break down into more finished material over time. I’ve used pre-compost that was 6 months old and it was beautiful, full of active biota, and the worms absolutely loved it. It’s important for these small composting actions that you generally follow the guidelines I lay out in the table top pre-composting series to get the accelerated results. It is NOT the same as how big outdoor compost piles are run. Those use different materials that do need extended times to break down. We’re using cardboard, paper and used coffee grounds. Ok? 👍🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms Thank you for answering my question. I was so happy to hear from you! ❤️ I am making three bins right now. I live in an inner city apartment so I'm using a 9.7 gallon Ikea box as well as two unused/sterile cat toilet boxes (haha that's what I had... 😂I guess they'd be 5 and 6 gal). I started making one of them after watching your videos (thank you ☺️) in October, then decided to expand the system and built two more (inoculating with some of the stuff from bin 1). I've been turning mostly every day and it is very effective, it reached temperatures of 60°C (140Fahrenheit) in each of the bins. I think that happened because I tend to stack the bins on top of each other (no space!) and the pressure helps the bacteria work. It's also the reason why I turn daily, because it could go mouldy/anaerobic with too much pressure. I also add small amounts of food scraps and bread if I feel my worm bin can't process it. It's just been fascinating to experience how cardboard, grass clippings, coffee grounds, leaves and some veggie scraps so quickly turn into this earthy-smelling brown mass. I'm wondering if it would be ok for me to just let it sit without turning for a few days, so that's the experiment I am running for the next four days. Thank you so much for taking the time to make the videos and reply to our questions.
@@topfactsaboutx Hello! You’re getting really good heat in such small systems! Maybe don’t let it get much hotter though. One commenter’s system went a bit hotter than yours and he reported that when he finally put worms in it they died 😳😢. I honestly don’t know why that would happen as worms exist in big outdoor compost systems that routinely get to 160F to heat kill weed seeds. But not knowing why makes me want to be a little cautious on too much heat for right now. Your stacked bins are keeping heat and moisture in and that’s what’s driving the biota to work extra hard for you! They love that environment 👍. Once I’m done actively cooking my pre-compost and it’s cooled down to around 100F I stop working it very much. I check it every few weeks to make sure there’s some moisture in there and give it a fluff to add air but that’s it. It’s very much like maintaining/storing castings 😊. Since you’re in an apartment it is crucial to watch for anaerobic conditions. One commenter in similar housing somehow had her pre-compost got badly anaerobic and it smelled up neighbor apartments too!! 😳😳. She added lots of carbon and got it back but it was a real problem for a while. It is fascinating to turn what is basically garbage into living soil. And it’s not hard, doesn’t take a lot of time or money and is so beneficial to the world. 👍❤️🪱
Hi Mira! Welcome! No I haven’t. I’ve heard of kombucha of course but that’s as far as I’ve gotten 😊. Have you used it in your composting totes? I’m guessing to buy it would be more expensive than beer or bakers yeast…? ❤️🪱
Hi Jenn! Thanks so much for your compliment ❤️. I really appreciate the feedback 👍. It keeps me going 🤗. I often use yeast as a microbial booster when making the indoor (and sometimes patio!) table top (always off the ground by at least a few feet) pre-compost. I generally use it during the 2nd heating cycle. Yeast is particularly good at breaking down fibers - which is what cardboard is. It is of course a good biota in and of itself ❤️. Sometimes I don’t add it at all - I forget to or it doesn’t seem to need it (as in the case of the big boy tote) or I need the bedding faster than what the necessary cool down period would be after such a nice heat boost from the yeast. It doesn’t take alot of yeast either. A packet is normally a 1/4 ounce amount and will work fine. I’ve used a tablespoon amount and that’s a lot! I always activate it first with warm water and a bit of sugar, then add it into the pre-compost bin after it’s foaming and do a thorough mix in. I think (don’t know for sure) adding yeast to the pre-compost mix would be a really good idea when composting in the cooler fall and winter months if doing it outside (a patio or garage or shed location) as the heat boost would help offset the cooler air temps and get the biota established and working faster. Does that answer your question sufficiently? I’m so glad you asked! I tend the throw out quite a bit of information and I don’t always clarify as much as I should, as I’m trying to not make hour long videos 🤣😳🪱❤️.
@RockinWorms it does answer my question sufficiently, yes! Each and every detail of this fascinates me. Chalk it up to the chemistry and physics labs in my past. lol. I took note of your maximum tempature after 24 hours, and how it decreased over time. I'd be temped to stir a little so it would cool to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Yesterday, got to work with the notes I took from your video. The Instant Pot vessel is half full, cardboard scrids continue to be shredded... You asked me to let you know about my breeder bins (about a month ago lol.) I dug deep into my wormery to separate out the red wigglers, roughly 150 of them. After my precompost is done, I'll seperate those with a clitellum and follow the notes from your video. Thanks again for sharing your tips and enthusiasm. It is a joy. 🥰
@@jenn1ferschonberger Hello! I took the pre-compost out of the middle green bin (the one that had only gone thru one heat/cool cycle) that was at 102 degrees and spread it out into a long bin. It cooled pretty quick down to 82-84 degrees - you were spot in! I’ve been using it to refresh my grow out bins as I sift what I can out of them. I’m being able to take out just under half. That allows me enough room to aerate the worms down to the now empty end and feed and reload with the pre-compost at the working end off the bin (a la wedge system movement). The worms will start to move into the fresh bedding pretty fast I think, allowing me to sift the newly vacated old castings relatively quickly. Then I can replace that space with fresh bedding as well and be back to a good place with the bins. No more super old castings! Well, it’s going to take me a week to get thru all the bins but at least I’ve started! I love that your using an Instant Pot vessel! Great using of what you already have on hand!! I’m confident that your scientific background will allow you to come up with some great new ways of doing things 🤩. Please share when you do 👍❤️🪱. Thanks again for being so supportive of me ❤️
Good day, I watched your video, like all, and followed exactly what you did to prepare the precomposted bedding for my ANC. But something is wrong, after 11 days it is still not heating up and I don't know why. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Hi Nikolaus! Welcome! I’m sorry you’re having trouble with the pre-compost. Let’s figure this out! What ratio of carbon to nitrogen did you use? Was is shredded cardboard and coffee grounds or other stuff? What did you use as your microbial activator? Yucky veggie slurry? Worm castings? Soil? Do you happen to have yeast on hand? How moist is the material? Can you squeeze liquid out of it? Is everything well mixed up and the carbon/nitrogen material is all damp? What’s your ambient temperature? ❤️🪱🪱
Good day, the ratio is about 70% carbon, 30% nitrogen, it is shredded cardboard plus coffee grounds plus cow manure. As microbial activator I used worm castings and blended veggies, but no yeast. The moisture should be okay, if I squeeze it a few drops are coming out and all is nice damp. Day temperature is 84F to 88F. Night temperature is 78F to 82F. For me it seems all to be okay, but until now it doesn't heat up. Maybe I should try to put some yeast inside. Thank you
@@nikolausschwabe Hello! You’ve absolutely have the recipe down. It’s obviously not cold ambient temps either. The cow manure will have biota in it as well. Hmm. I’d suggest you add more nitrogen into the mix. 70/30 is the safe slower way to compost and is a good starting point for beginners. I’ve moved on to closer to a 45/55 or 50/50 eyeballed ratio of carbon to nitrogen. If you have yeast on hand then activate it and add. If you don’t then just add in more coffee grounds and enough liquid to maintain the dampness you’ve already established, which sounds perfect. How the airflow? I apologize if you already said. Remind me 😊.
I made the same purito rolls and covered it copying your system, I forgot to mention I also put coconut coil inside. The air humidity is high too mostly between 80% to 90%. I am in the Philippines. Yes I have dry yest, I will dissolve it and add it with more blended veggies Thanks for your great kindness and help. I really appreciate it
@@nikolausschwabe really have all the pieces. The higher carbon ratio at the start does make the process slower if you don’t have a lot of biota going in at the same time via moldy veggies, worm castings, manure, etc. It takes time for the biota to grow but 11 days is too long for sure 😡. Frankly, I’m stumped. Does any Castings Crew or anyone in TH-cam land have any suggestions?? I’m opening up the door wide here! Let’s help Nikolaus out! In the meantimes, yes, add in more nitrogen and yeast. Do activate the yeast first - it works better that way. In case you don’t know, use a glass or ceramic bowl and not metal. Warm water and a good add of sugar will get it started. It takes 5-15 minutes to start to see activation 😊 Keep us posted! ❤️🪱🪱
Hi Shantel! I haven’t had much of an issue with gnats. I’ve had one or 2 rarely so I don’t consider it an issue. Burying the food as deep as you can (at bottom of a 5-6” deep bin) will help. Others have used products like mosquito dunks and mosquito bits dissolved in water and used the treated water when spraying the bin. Another thing I’ve just started doing is to let my frozen foods defrost before feeding. This releases a huge amount of water. I squeeze the veg to release even more water before adding the food into the worm bin. The new ides - so not tested - is that I (you) could ’re-dampen’ the food with the mosquito dunk/bits water before adding to the bin. This would put the treatment right where the problem manifests itself. I’m also moving more toward using dry food in the worm bins when I can - worm chow or dehydrated veggie powders. The massive removal of moisture from the foods initially will, I believe but still testing this, kill a lot of insect eggs much more effectively that freezing does. It’s the eggs that is really the issue. If we can kill the eggs before hatch then we are solving the problem at its root cause. Is this helpful to you at all?
Hi Greg! Welcome! I use standard bakers yeast. The brand is Fleshmann’s but any brand of yeast will work fine. I activate it before putting it into pre-compost bin using warm water and some sugar. Instructions will be on the back of the yeast package. Use a glass or ceramic bowl, not metal 👍❤️🪱
@RockinWorms greetings jayne. harvested castings this morning and got 16# this time - woo hoo !!! not why i'm posing this question though. i saw a youtuber that was using rice, cooked i believe, to get his bedding thermophilic. i have never used rice in bedding or compost because i have always read or heard that is wasn't safe because of bad bacteria cultures. i have never seen or heard of anyone else using rice but people do use it for lactobacillus cultures. i was just wondering if you ever have and/or what your thoughts might be. thanks.
Hi Ron! I have used rice rinse water occasionally in making the pre-compost. Rice water is supposedly very good for encouraging fungi development. I have seen fungi in some of the totes but didn’t track if those totes were the rice water totes. I should have! Next time I’ll try to track that. I’ve never put actually rice into any bin or tote. A video by the Northern Thai Garden Guy shows him putting in rice into his pre-composting bin and getting great biota results. I don’t recall if it went thermophilic or not. I would not put rice into a worm bin. I’d be very concerned that it would heat up past the safe range for worms. I believe Patrick at Vermicomposting Learn by Doing did an experiment with rice in his outdoor worm bag and did find that it heated up quite a bit and went past the safe temperature zone for worms. Since he had the rice in a concentrated area the worms were able to remain on the edges of the heat zone until it cooled down enough. I would not be overly concerned about the type of bacteria or fungi specifically growing in the compost due to rice. The worms don’t care what kind it is, they’ll happily eat it all when the pre-compost hits their bin. 😆👍. So in summary, I’d be ok with rice in a composting tote but never a worm bin. I’d be ok with feeding the rice compaot to the worms after it had gone thru the heating and cooling cycle(s) and was temperature appropriate for the worms. Ok? ❤️🪱
I’ve really been struggling with pre-compost and don’t know where to turn. I follow your methods and it mostly cold compost because it doesn’t reach high temperatures. I don’t add any food after I make the initial bedding and it ages for six weeks. The temperature of the bedding is room temperature when I add to my worm bins. However.. everytime I add the pre compost to my worm bins it heats up past 100 degrees and kills some of my worms. This is the second time it has done this. This is the same compost that sat for six weeks.. and I never added any additional food source so I don’t understand why the microbes start becoming active again. I tried to turn the compost a few times to extract more heat cycles the second time around but with no luck before adding… I’m at a loss but about to give up on it all together.
I’m really sorry to hear how much trouble you’re having with the pre-compost, especially it causing worm die off in your worm bins 😩😡. That’s just terrible! Let’s see if we can figure this out. Ok. So the pre-compost simply isn’t composting in its tote. Perhaps a little cold composting as you note but not any hot composting. Since you’ve aerated it let’s cross that off the culprit list. What about there not being enough nitrogen in the pre-compost mix, along with enough moisture to make the mix be thoroughly damp…? Nitrogen is what is hot feeding the microbes which in turn reproduce like crazy, eat like crazy, and give off heat as a by product. If your ratio is low on nitrogen you get the cold composting until a nitrogen boost is added…. Like the food and even the castings in the worm bin. If the mix is dry and then gets moisture from the worm bin contents that would further activate the biota and kick start hot composting. Do you think any of this is likely what’s happening? If misery loves company, you do have it. Some worm wranglers do struggle with pre-composting. It’s a challenge for me to diagnose what’s off without being there in person 😬. If you’d like we can set up a zoom or FaceTime call and perhaps we can get a better idea of what’s going wrong. You can email me at RockinWFamilyFarm@gmail.com 😊.
@@RockinWorms I use roughly about 50 percent coffee grounds and shredded cardboard. I also add tons of kitchen slurry when making the initial batch. I add tons of moisture to my bin but it always seems like it drains out the bottom and needs more. I may need to do a better job of having the cardboard thoroughly absorbed the water. I do dig two holes in the compost to promote aeration. What’s crazy to me is the same bedding simply being moved from the bin to the worm bin and slight moisture added causes it to spike.. I don’t add any food or anything just the pre-compost. What makes to even crazier.. I also mixed up the left over pre-compost since I didn’t use it all up, added more moisture and it’s still cooler than the worm bags by about 15 degrees lol. I don’t understand what’s going on :(
@@kylewestrom7849 Frankly I don’t either! Something is being added or triggered in the worm bins that isn’t in the pre-compost tote. What volume is your pre-composting tote? Have you tried jacking up the biota in the pre-compost tote by adding activated yeast? If we can get the pre-compost hot composting then it’ll be safe in the worms bins after it cools down. This is confounding! 😩🪱🤷♂️
@@RockinWorms I agree with your assessment. It’s a 38 gallon bin. I usually fill it up to the top. I do keep the lid on with screened air holes on the top for oxygen. I have tried yeast in the past I haven’t done it on this batch. I’m wondering if it’s either more oxygen or moisture causing it? I don’t see it could be anything else. I also forgot to mention that I’m loading it into a Vermibag bag CTF system.
@@kylewestrom7849 Screened air holes in a solid top may not be enough. I tried loose plastic on top once and it didn’t work. The biota is using up a lot of oxygen and it needs to be replenished constantly. That’s why the ‘open’ too often screening and dry cardboard shred works so well. There’s no barrier for the air to get to the pre-compost. I started out with quite moist, even a tiny bit wet, pre-compost mix way back when. Now I keep it damp. And even if it dries out on top I don’t worry about it too much. I throw on splashes of liquid when I think of it 🙄. BUT this is after having made dozens of batches and getting really familiar with my specific mix. A 38 gallon tote is a good size! Even halfway full you’re at the 18-20 gallon tote size I recommend starting with to learn on. I don’t think the size or volume is the issue then. I go back to adding liquid and mixing very well. Adding a biota booster like yeast or castings. And a bit more nitrogen to get away from cold composting. 🤞🤞🤞
Have you tried this with leaves hmmm I think will try this fall mix some leaves in and see how it does I do want to get those minerals in there for my plants 😊
Hello! I have a small bin of leaves I’m turning into leaf mold. I started it quite a few months ago and other than rarely remembering to add a splash of liquid, I’ve ignored it 🥲. I also have several large troughs (stock tanks) that I’ve put leaves into that Mother Nature is working on at her leisure. While I’ve generally stopped adding in ‘fresh dried’ leaves into my worm bins - in order to accelerate castings production - I fully expect to be adding leaves in again in the future. A tip I read about making leaf mold is to use rice water as the liquid. The specific starch the rice gives off really helps break the leaves down. You might want to give that a try 😊. Adding in trace minerals is a really good idea! It follows Liebig’s Law of Minimums. I’m adding in azomite to achieve the same thing. Please keep us updated on how your experience goes 🪱🪱❤️!
I appreciate your video. Glad it turned up in my feed. I’m new at vermicomposting, so I appreciate all the information I can get. I had just been putting shredded paper and card board straight in my bin. I like the idea of precomposting. But I’m a little confused on cool down and heat up process. Thanks!
@@Annie-vg5bk Hi Annie! Welcome 🤗! Please ask any questions you have. I’ll do me best to answer 😊. If you have had the chance yet, you may want to watch the 7 video series I made on how to make pre-compost. It’ll provide you with some fundamental information that will help with understanding the process and what is actually happening. Here’s the link: Indoor Table Top Pre-Composting Bin th-cam.com/play/PLUW0xTNzqrJp2nsLeHt-8OKFqP9XEZ-PE.html Basically, due to the increase in the number of biota eating, breathing and multiplying within a pile of compost material, their activity makes the pile heat up. Since they like heat, that makes them even happier and they eat and breathe and multiply even more! At the point where they start to exhaust the food source (carbon and nitrogen), they slow down on eating and multiply. This reduces the heat they’re putting out. This slow down results in the pile cooling down. This is called one heating/ cooling cycle 👍. To kick off a 2nd cycle you add more food to the pile (carbon and nitrogen) and the cycle starts back up again. You can do as many calories cleaning as you have space and time and food for but 2 cycles is the sweet spot for pre-composting for worm bedding. I look forward to hearing how your worm journey progresses! 👍🪱❤️
Hi again Carlos! It’s a very simple base recipe that you can tweak to work with whatever you have on hand. 1) I use between 55-75% shredded cardboard and paper (mostly cardboard) 2) 25-45% used coffee grounds 3) Lastly, enough liquid (veggie slurry but worm tea, water etc in a pinch) to make the cardboard and coffee grounds very moist. That’s it! 3 ingredients. Oh, here’s another video (a short) on that: th-cam.com/users/shorts8uCvN6wgAws If you have more questions, please ask! Thanks for watching 👍🪱🪱
I started with arounded 500 worms after starting to be so many of them so I both another farm tower with 3 box now are só many again why born so Mach? Have to feed them every 2 weeks they eating a lots now come up on cover and I sink maybe hot days só I did put on top box 5 litres of fresh filter water a bit by bit I sink they love it they stop to come up to the cover the first farm are 4 to 5 box in Tower the second tower are 3 boxes but much more large some worms are so bigger over 10cm
@@CarlosAnselmo-be4nw Your worms are loving the environment you are providing them! They are showing their appreciation by breeding like crazy! And growing bigger 👍. If you want to slow down their reproduction, you can keep them a bit more crowded. Worms will stabilize their numbers to match the space and food they have. Here’s a video where I talk about that a bit: 7 Ways to Manage Your Worm Population th-cam.com/video/n_G8K1We0XE/w-d-xo.html Of you have more worms than you want, you might get a few ideas from the above video. By the way, lots of worm wranglers would be happy to have your problem! 😆👍🪱
I use 550 micro cut cardboard and peat moss then add coffee and some rabbit poop let it sit for 2 or 3 days and am not aware off heat-What do you do with yeast ?0
Hi John! That’s sounds like a great mix for composting. Do you add any liquid to it? If it’s all dry material and basically stays that way it’ll take much longer to breakdown. It’ll be a type of cold composting I believe where heat generated is very low and slow due to slow bacterial growth. It certainly is an effective composting method, it just takes a lot longer. It’ll take your worms and the biota ecosystem in a worm bin longer to turn it all into castings. Again, not a bad thing at all. Just depends on what you’re looking for. The yeast is a ‘hot shot’ of active fungi that will eat thru the composting material rapidly. It’ll multiply rapidly as well, generating a lot of heat in the process. All this activity breaks the compost material down quickly, making it easily edible and digestible by the worms and other biota in a worm bin ecosystem. That then means fast castings generation! If you haven’t had the chance yet, my playlist on the pre-composting method I use may answer some additional questions you may have 😊. Here’s the link: Indoor Table Top Pre-Composting Bin th-cam.com/play/PLUW0xTNzqrJp2nsLeHt-8OKFqP9XEZ-PE.html Thanks for watching and asking questions! 🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms wasn't clear I do that I add water let it off gas and then I'll put my worms right in and I don't understand why yours is heating up yeah I don't have that problem
@@johnpierce227 Hmmm. I don’t know why either! Just shredded cardboard, coffee ground and liquid in the form of a vegetable slurry - nothing else - will start it heating up. Not super hot but over 100 degrees…. Usually in the 109-113 range. Adding yeast will spike it higher of course. If I had to guess I’d say it was the rabbit poop that maybe buffering what you’re doing…? Rabbit manure is one of the only manures that doesn’t have to be aged before putting into a worm bin (again due to heating actions). But that doesn’t feel like it’s entirely enough to offset the other materials. Well, one additional thought - if you’re cold composting that would also have a no heat result. That entails a high level of carbon relative to the nitrogen sources. Could that be it?
@@johnpierce227 What I’m saying is that if the bedding is quite high in carbon relative to the nitrogen it’s certainly still good bedding but it won’t compost/heat up the same as bedding that has a lower carbon to nitrogen ratio. I’d love to understand why you get one action and I get a different one but this messaging back and forth probably isn’t going to let that happen. The important thing is that what you’re doing works for you and your worms!! ❤️🪱
It appears you are still dwelling on precomposted instead of prepared. At any rate I made some prepared bedding today with shredded paper and cardboard along with some old castings. To this I added de-chlorinated water with unsulphered molasses mixed in as food for the microbes/bacteria. I used a 5 gal bucket for this but it does seem like this wont be enough for a grow out bin.
@@yes350yes Hi Morris! I absolutely make pre-compost waaaay more than prepared bedding. I only make prepared bedding when I’ve run out of pre-compost or it’s taking a long time to cool down 😩. Your mix will work for prepared bedding. The small amount will struggle to heat up and/or maintain heat. And as you say, you’ll use it up fast. Do you have any 18 gallon-ish sized totes around? 🪱🪱
@@RockinWorms precomps is up to 80f I know the temp is 15c not sure what that is in f but will check next time. I’m gonna start shredding more paper and cardboard to go in… and I talked to mum yesterday about the shredder and she said maybe her and my bro go half’s for me for Christmas. So may do that. To give me a cross shredder. So be smaller then long bits.
Hello! Welcome! It depends on where/how the water is treated before it comes out of the tap. If you have well water that isn’t treated with chlorine or chloramine then it’s good to go. If it’s chlorine then simply exposing it to the air for a day will allow the chlorine to dissipate. Chloramine will not dissipate. It needs to be chemical treated to neutralize it. Vitamin C/ascorbic acid is supposed to work. 40mg per gallon. You can call your local water authority to ask what’s used to treat drinking water in your area. ❤️🪱
@@RockinWorms Thank you so much! I called them and it's just chlorine, I forgot to give you an update. :) so what I did was I use water that I let sit for a day or more. It works just fine.
@@القناص-و7م Hi! If any episodes are translated it’s by accident as I have not done anything knowingly to make that happen. I am glad at least some are being translated and are easier for you to watch and listen to! Thank you for your support and determination to learn more about worm farming! 🪱🪱❤️
Happy to see another segment on the precomposted bedding, and prepared bedding as well! I've only really been able to do prepared bedding thus far, but my worms seem pretty happy with it. My harvest time has been ranging between 60-90 days since starting to use prepared bedding exclusively. 😊 I gotta question for you! So as you know, I'm now on my journey to precomposted bedding myself, and I am having some issues with it. Seems mine is tapping out at 108F, and trying to throw more nitrogen in it last time gave me an ammonia smell, so I threw in a bunch of carbon to remedy that. Cleared up quickly, but now I am wondering if there is a way to bump my temps any higher without running into the ammonia problem again. Temps are averaging 104F, which just feels lackluster. 🥲 Thinking I might have to take the divider out to do the full 43 gallons at one time rather than half and half. Might not be enough area for the bacteria to do their magic at half capacity? Also, getting another heat cycle entails adding more carbon and nitrogen after a cool-off cycle to kick it back into action, right?
Hi Evelyn! Sorry for the delay getting back to your question. It sounds like your prepared bedding is working just fine! 60-90 days to harvest most of the bedding as castings is really pretty good for prepared bedding. You’ll find fully pre-composted bedding will go a lot faster, as you’ve seen in my bins 👍. Yes, generally speaking I do add more carbon and nitrogen with more veggie slurry when I start the 2nd heat/cool cycle. The volume in the bin has reduced significantly from the 1st cycle so adding in the new material bulks it back up as well as giving the biota new food sources. I have found a significant and easily seen difference between bedding that’s only had one cycle vs two, even if the 1st cycle went thermophilic. I’m not sure if it’s more due to increased biota working or just the longer breakdown time a 2nd cycle provides or a combo, but the 2nd cycle is really good to do if you can. As far as your temps go, while 108 and 104 isn’t impressive, it’s still a sign that the biota are working. Do you have access to yeast? That could give it a boost without adding nitrogen or liquid that could go anaerobic. If you don’t, just add small amounts of nitrogen over several days and see what happens. For the bulk question I’d say removing the divider would help. If you have a 43 gallon tumbler, divided it’s 21.5 gallons and you’re not filling it full as you need room for the material to actually tumble. So now you’re down to 15-17 gallons more than likely. This is a very acceptable volume and near what my 18 gallon bins operate at where I normally achieve high temps around 113 degrees without yeast. So your temps are a bit lower and we talked about that above. But if you combine the 2 tumbler areas you’ll get much more volume working in your favor and I’d expect you’ll get much higher temps as well. Do make sure you have enough moisture in the mixture. I’ve actually cut back a bit on the amount of liquid I add to reduce pooling in the bin bottom corners but absolutely make sure the mix isn’t dry. I hope this helps you! Please continue to keep us apprised 🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms Oh, you're fine! I'm actually just now getting to your video since I've been really busy with the new house. 😅 Trying to play catch-up whenever I get any downtime. No yeast at the moment, though I do have some sourdough starter. I just worry about the acids in that if I were to use it. Guess I could buffer with powdered eggshell and just be sure to test pH before I feed to the worms? Think I'll work on taking the divider out maybe tomorrow. Then I'll definitely need to get my grounds to fill the bin rapidly. Slow to start on that cuz I just attained the buckets for them to fill. Thanks for taking the time to answer all of my questions! As an aside, I did get it up to 110F with my last feeding, and I have lots of mold on my check-in this morning (they look like little grey pompoms!), so that's fun!
@@evelynknight5627 Hi! 110 degrees is very respectable so congratulations 🎊 ! I would be ok with adding some sourdough starter into the pre-compost mix. I would NOT add it directly into a worm bin. Someone did that and reported not good results 😳. The compositing process will take care of any excess acidity and come out neutral. Of course it’s always a good idea to test if you can 😊. If you have a neighborhood bakery they might be willing to sell you a 1/4 cup of yeast. That would last you a few composting batches.
@@evelynknight5627 Hi! 110 degrees is very respectable so congratulations 🎊 ! The fact that you can see bacteria blooms says you are in the zone. I would be ok with adding some sourdough starter into the pre-compost mix. I would NOT add it directly into a worm bin. Someone did that and reported not good results 😳. The compositing process will take care of any excess acidity and come out neutral. Of course it’s always a good idea to test if you can 😊. If you have a neighborhood bakery they might be willing to sell you a 1/4 cup of yeast. That would last you a few composting batches. But circling back, you have bacteria blooms so you can rest on your laurels for now if you want, let it cool back down to 100 degrees or so then give it the 2nd round boost. You’re doing great!!
@@RockinWorms That's encouraging! Thank you! I might still take out the divider because I am greedy and want to see if I can push the temp to 120F maybe. 🤞 And I'll wake my starters up from their dehydrated state and give that a go. Thank you again so much! 🤗
I would like to thank you for taking the time to do these videos. As someone who is just starting to raise worms. Your videos are very informative
Hi David! Welcome! I’m so glad you’re finding my videos helpful 👍🤗. Giving support to new worm wranglers was my main goal when I started my channel. I had so many questions myself and had a hard time finding answers. I still have questions 😆 but now the learning and sharing is better and more fun! Thanks for watching 😎🪱❤️
Good call on scrounging buckets and containers to use.
Goodwill is an excellent source for paper shredders, coffee grinders, blenders and food processors, always reliable for those machines, year-round.
I use worm casting tea for inoculation into the bedding for preparing it. The leftovers from the teabags are used for baiting hatchling (all of them in the container 100%). The leftovers are also used as a top feed in bed-run bins. Another thing I use alone or along with the casting tea is Pond-Enzymes, that stuff works amazingly well. One of the bait growers I watch on TH-cam is experimenting with Chlorella as an inoculant it is showing promising results for inoculation and providing a plethora of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. One of the vegetable and produce farmers I watch in Thailand uses homemade effective microbes and DIY photosynthetic microorganisms for inoculating his bedding. That also works excellent, that farmer does a ton of pure castings every 14-days using ANCs (he does all the sifting by hand on a tarp).
You are putting out valuable information Jayne, keep the great content coming 👍👍
Enjoy worms and have a great Day!
Hi Wormsforlife! Thanks! It’s good to remind people they we don’t need to buy new every time. There’s lots of great sources for reliable cost effective tools to make worming even more fun and affordable 👍.
I have a video saved on how to make EM. It’s definitely something I want to try!! There’s so many new - or old ways becoming new again - to tap into. I think it’s great to get out of the single lane rut we all often find ourselves in. I’m continually amazed at these little hacks I and others come up with ❤️.
All I want for Christmas is more time to spend on exploring all these great options 🙄.
I hope others read your comments and have the ability to check out some of your shared ideas.
Thanks for sharing your vast insights ❤️🪱❤️
I have a very simplified version of this technique going on my back porch. My worm bin has drainage holes in it. There is another bin under it. to catch any excess moisture. I have a layer of shredded paper in that second bin that I use for bedding when I need it. Then I refill the bottom bin w/ shredded paper so it can get a head start. Some worms escape through the holes, and they can live in the shredded paper.
Hi Linda! That is a great way to get a jump on bedding for your worms! You’re so smart 👍🪱❤️
One trick that I’ve been doing is when I’m done preparing my pre-compost I’ll dig two holes on each side to the bottom and leave it. This allows oxygen to penetrate the bedding and avoid anaerobic conditions. In a sense it’s a no till method, the lazy way and not having to turn the bedding all the time. I have done this a few times with great success and the compost smells great. I let it sit for 1-2 months with no turning. I also use an auger attachment on my drill when I initially prepare the bedding to take the strain off my arms and hands on turning it, great hack :)
Hi again Kyle! I like that idea! Especially for bigger totes. It’s the PVC method without the pvc. Excellent idea!
I did a short on me using the drill attachment to mix/turn the pre-compost. I still had to get into the edges with my hands but it did cut down the work effort and time.
Thank you for stopping by and sharing!! 👍❤️🪱
You are so right about relationships! I'm 64, live off grid with my dog. You have no idea what having friends mean to you until you have none.
Hello! There’s all the difference in the world between having one friend and none. And it totally counts if that friend is a spouse or a relative too. Pets are close, very close, but having a human to discuss things with is better 😊. With internet access to groups like this we can have friends - or at least acquaintances with shared interests and that goes a long way too! I hope you’ll join in often on discussions, share what you’re doing and thinking and be a part of this supportive community ❤️🪱❤️. I’m glad you’re here! 🤗
@RockinWorms I appreciate the thought. It's too late for me but keep encouraging others. No one will make it through these times alone.
@@EZLivin-zk4gm I’m not exactly a half full glass kind of girl. And definitely not a Pollyanna. But life is full of unexpected surprises and you never know what tomorrow brings, especially when you absolutely think you know what tomorrow brings! It’s never too late. It’s never over until a final breath.
I hope you are happy or find happiness and peace. However that is defined by you, which is all that matters. 🤗
I had a couple of questions to ask that had puzzled me for years now, but after watching you precomposting videos, you have given the answers. Namely, why do so many people cover their worm bins with damp paper and then a plastic sheet. How's the air to get in ? Nature doesn't do it that way.
I'm going to sew the mesh I already have into a pillow shape and fill it with dry bedding. Sorry, little critters and knats, there is plenty of room for you elsewhere. Jayne, your videos are the most progressive and thorough I have seen. Thank you dear Lady.
Thank you Tim! I’m so glad you’re finding the answer you need 😍. Understanding WHY we do what we do helps us remember the information and also opens us up to discovering better ways to do thing a. We understand the goal, the purpose. We’re not just doing what we’re told!
To expand a bit on the damp paper towel and plastic coverings over worm bins…. I use them to keep moisture in primarily. My indoor humidity fluctuates a lot 😡. Right now it’s in the low 20% which is quite dry. It’s great as my damp castings are drying quickly for sifting ❤️. Other times my humidity is in the upper 40-50s% and castings can take weeks to dry down 😳😖.
Having the paper covering (which is also a food source for the worms as biota will colonize it) and plastic helps stabilize bin moisture. It reduces moisture swings so the worms have a more consistent environment.
Also it’s good to keep in mind that while worms breathe air like we do, they don’t require the same amount of air as we do to be comfortable. If we were buried in dirt/soil, we would perish from suffocation. For worms that’s their home! So a LOOSE covering is a-ok.
Thanks for bringing these points up for further discussion 😊😡🪱
When you go to heaven, I am sure you will be put in charge of all the worms up there. Thank you.
You can also use duff instead of castings to kickstart the bedding. We live across from a wild park, so Landon retrieved several handfuls for me at one point when I wanted to make matured bedding.
~ Sandra
Hi Sandra! Absolutely! The canned veggie juice is probably the most easily accessible for everyone. I did want to strip it back as far as possible so everyone can give it a try with very little time, effort or cost 👍
Thanks for stopping by ❤️🪱❤️
Don't know what's is Duff
@@CarlosAnselmo-be4nw Hi. Carlos! Duff is the light fluffy layer of forest floor usually found right under the top layer of fallen leaves. Unless you have access to a native forest it’s not something you’ll have readily available to you. Sandra is fortunate to have duff. 🪱🪱
Hi Jayne, I love your pool area. A great reprieve from the Florida summer heat. Also, 20:09 great bedding ❤👍❤️
Hi Peggy! The pool is great to have! We often walk right into it after working outside just to get a quick cool down on our core temps!! It’s brutal out 😳. It’s hot on the patio too of course under the roof. It’s where I want to put a new worm bin but I’m concerned it’ll still be too hot. I have to do some testing when I get the chance!
Your pond area you shared with Mr Bunny last week is lovely too🤗
@RockinWorms We are a half block away from the lake. Our lot is a small residential 50'x 125' with a house in the middle. An easy property to keep up.👍
@@peggyhelblingsgardenwhatyo7920 I always admire the manicured clean look of properties like yours ❤️. But I don’t think at this point we’d be able to give up the space and privacy and animal enjoyment we have. So we live with the jungle 🤗.
As always your videos and instruction are quite helpful as I grow the Keller Korner Wormville in Connersvile, Indiana.
Go Keller Korner Wormville! You need to share how you’re running your business so I can learn from you!!
Your worms are going to love all of that pre compost ❤
Hello! They really do love it. It’s the best change I made for better managing my worm bins, switching to making pre-compost. And since it’s virtually free to make…! Can’t beat it! 👍🪱🪱
I’ve been binge watching your videos. Great info , just what I was looking for. I really appreciate it
Hello! Welcome aboard! Thanks so much for not only watching but commenting too 🤗. I’m so glad you’re finding my videos helpful and informative 👍😊. Do you have worms? What kind? 🪱❤️
What does yeast do and how much do you put in the bedding?
Great system going on, and a lovely view in the background!
Thanks! We really enjoy where we live, overgrown jungle that it gets to be all too often!
Thanks for watching 🪱❤️
Good info!! Whah hooo almost hit that 1000 subs!! You continue to be one of my favorite worming channels! Always helpful!
I hope the info can help others get started making better bedding in a reasonable manner. I only wish I had thought to do it myself 2 weeks ago 🙄🤣.
I won’t lie - I’m hoping to each 1000 sins soon and get a little slice of the ad revenue pie 🤣🤩
Our Starbucks has a sign that says ask us about our used coffee grounds
Well that makes it easy! The 2 I go to have a kind of small bucket with a sign but I rarely see any bags in it 🤷♂️. I always ask at the counter, waiting my turn if there’s a line. Often now when I walk in someone starts getting the grounds before I say a word 🤣. It’s a great win all the way around 👍🪱❤️
Hi, Jane.
I'm from Portugal. Ive started composting some months ago.
I just love it.
Ive been watching your videos, but this in particular, I've watched 4 or 5 times at least. 😛
I would like to see more like this.
There are some expressions you use, im not familiar with, like water vegetables. You used another word, but I can't remember now!
Keep up the good work! 💜🪱
Hi Tatiana! Welcome!! I’m very glad to have you join in the fun 🪱❤️.
I probably was referring to the liquid that comes off the veggies and fruit I freeze then defrost to feed the worms. It gives off A LOT of liquid. Depending on how you run your worm bins or compost piles, you can add the liquid in directly or divert it for other uses. Generally my worm bins are already moist enough and adding in so much more liquid makes them too wet for my preference. So I’ve started squeezing the defrosted food and so far it’s working better for me 👍🪱❤️
Please ask any questions you have! Sharing is how we all learn and get better 🤗. If you remember the other words o wasn’t clear on, please let me know 😊.
@RockinWorms thanks for explaining it to me.
That's a good idea, yes.
Thanks again for all your videos.
Much success!!!
@@tatianadossantos9027 You are very welcome! Again, ask anything you are wondering about. It’s a great community here ❤️❤️❤️
You've made me so pleased with myself as I have both types going as well😂
Yea! 🎊🎈🍾
I wish I had thought to do the prepared bedding a few weeks ago when I realized I was going to be really tight on the pre-compost. Ah well. Better late than never 😎.
Adding yeast is new to me. Does that reactive the decomposition of the compost? Do you just sprinkle dry yeast on it and mix it in?
Hi Julie! Welcome! Yes, the yeast adds a super boost of fungi into the composting bin. Fungi is especially good at breaking down fibers, which is what cardboard and paper are made from. So it accelerates the breakdown and speeds up the timeframe to when the pre-compost is readily digested by the worms when it hits the worm bin.
I activate the yeast prior to adding it into the pre-compost tote. Warm water (not hot), a good sprinkle of sugar and the yeast. Not in a metal bowl. Use glass or ceramic. Give it 5-15 minutes to activate and then add it into the tote and mix in. Ok? ❤️🪱🪱
@@RockinWorms Very interesting! Thank you for the directions. I’ll be doing this tomorrow!
@@juliepoolie5494 Let us know how it goes!❤️🪱🪱
Thanks for the video! Do you have any experience working with the trichoderma mushroom? It is a strong destructor and a mushroom that is safe for humans. I grow this mushroom for plant protection in our garden and it gives excellent results. I want to try to use it to create a litter, I don't know if it's a good idea or not.
I know zero about mushrooms. If they grow on my pre-compost I will feed them to the worms. I get several types that show up. 🤷♂️.
I do know one commercial seller that uses mushroom compost as bedding or at least as a mix in to make worm bedding. You can always test out a small bin with the mushroom/mushroom compost and see how your worms like it. If you do, please report back as it would be very helpful to other worm wranglers 👍🤩. I’m sorry I can be more helpful myself 😩😊🪱
Thank you for this information going to start me a tote very soon love your stuff!!!!
Hi Dennis! Excellent! Anything you can do to make worm bedding easier for the worms to eat is beneficial to both them and you! Please keep us updated on how your tote progresses! ❤️🪱❤️
I knew to the composting world and I’d like to know what purpose does the shredded dry paper in the mesh atop of the moist bedding serve?
@@cynthiahughes6684 Hi Cynthia! Welcome! The set shred actually serves a few functions. 👍😎
While the pre-compost is heating up it serves to keep the heat and moisture inside the tote. The reproducing biota love heat and good moisture. As they expand their numbers they give off heat and moisture and keeping it in the tote creates a positive feedback loop.
Secondly, as the pre-compost cools it becomes very attractive to all sorts of insects and little animals as bedding and nesting material. The dry shred on top couple with a fine weave barrier like the mesh discouraged these insects from invading the pre-compost. It’s not 100% effective but it’s very very good! Ok? 🪱
Great vid love it
@@ThehandygeekGA Thanks Damian!
Great video ! I feel I can achieve this on a small scale 👍😉
Hi Linda! That was exactly what I was hoping to get across 🤗. Small scale can be quite effective and basically anything you can do to jump start the breakdown of bedding so the worms can get into it faster is a win all the way around the block 🪱🪱❤️. Thanks for watching 😎
Another option is what I usually do which is using the castings I've made extract from to inoculate my prepared bedding. Two for one!
Hi Eleanor! Yep! Either way - adding castings tea and using the castings elsewhere or adding castings from making tea… or what I did in the video and add the whole darn thing in…. It all works to jump start breaking down the bedding and growing even more boots for the wormies to enjoy 👍🪱❤️. Fast and easy and use it when you need to. Perfect interim answer to needing bedding or dipping a toe into the pre-composing world 😎. Thanks for contributing to the discussion 🪱❤️
I feed my worms my pre compost from my tumbler outside. They go krAzy for it!
Hi! I bet they do! What kind of worms do you have?
Do you like your tumbler? I think about getting one off of marketplace once in a while but am restraining myself 😆🙄🤩
How long do you precompost your bedding? I read 6-12 weeks should be the minimum.
Hello again! It takes about 7-10 days for these small systems (I’m talking 18-20 gallon totes) to complete the first heat/cool cycle. The pre-compost is perfectly fine to use but is perhaps a bit more on the ‘prepared bedding’ side of things.
This means it definitely has lot of bacteria in it but there’s also lots of carbon and nitrogen that hasn’t been broken down hardly at all yet. I’m using 1 cycle pre-compost right now to slow my bins down so I can spend less time harvesting castings and feeding them.
If you want more broken down pre-compost that the worms will eat very quickly then do a 2nd heat and cool cycle, which takes another 7-10 days. Once it cools down to 100F - 105F you can aerate it often, put in smaller containers etc to get it quickly below 85F so it can be used as bedding. One great thing about pre-compost is the stuff you don’t use right away continues to break down into more finished material over time. I’ve used pre-compost that was 6 months old and it was beautiful, full of active biota, and the worms absolutely loved it.
It’s important for these small composting actions that you generally follow the guidelines I lay out in the table top pre-composting series to get the accelerated results. It is NOT the same as how big outdoor compost piles are run. Those use different materials that do need extended times to break down. We’re using cardboard, paper and used coffee grounds. Ok? 👍🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms Thank you for answering my question. I was so happy to hear from you! ❤️ I am making three bins right now. I live in an inner city apartment so I'm using a 9.7 gallon Ikea box as well as two unused/sterile cat toilet boxes (haha that's what I had... 😂I guess they'd be 5 and 6 gal).
I started making one of them after watching your videos (thank you ☺️) in October, then decided to expand the system and built two more (inoculating with some of the stuff from bin 1). I've been turning mostly every day and it is very effective, it reached temperatures of 60°C (140Fahrenheit) in each of the bins. I think that happened because I tend to stack the bins on top of each other (no space!) and the pressure helps the bacteria work. It's also the reason why I turn daily, because it could go mouldy/anaerobic with too much pressure.
I also add small amounts of food scraps and bread if I feel my worm bin can't process it.
It's just been fascinating to experience how cardboard, grass clippings, coffee grounds, leaves and some veggie scraps so quickly turn into this earthy-smelling brown mass.
I'm wondering if it would be ok for me to just let it sit without turning for a few days, so that's the experiment I am running for the next four days.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make the videos and reply to our questions.
@@topfactsaboutx Hello! You’re getting really good heat in such small systems! Maybe don’t let it get much hotter though. One commenter’s system went a bit hotter than yours and he reported that when he finally put worms in it they died 😳😢. I honestly don’t know why that would happen as worms exist in big outdoor compost systems that routinely get to 160F to heat kill weed seeds. But not knowing why makes me want to be a little cautious on too much heat for right now.
Your stacked bins are keeping heat and moisture in and that’s what’s driving the biota to work extra hard for you! They love that environment 👍.
Once I’m done actively cooking my pre-compost and it’s cooled down to around 100F I stop working it very much. I check it every few weeks to make sure there’s some moisture in there and give it a fluff to add air but that’s it. It’s very much like maintaining/storing castings 😊.
Since you’re in an apartment it is crucial to watch for anaerobic conditions. One commenter in similar housing somehow had her pre-compost got badly anaerobic and it smelled up neighbor apartments too!! 😳😳. She added lots of carbon and got it back but it was a real problem for a while.
It is fascinating to turn what is basically garbage into living soil. And it’s not hard, doesn’t take a lot of time or money and is so beneficial to the world. 👍❤️🪱
Наve you tried combucha mother mushroom? It has yeast and other beneficial bacteria.
Hi Mira! Welcome! No I haven’t. I’ve heard of kombucha of course but that’s as far as I’ve gotten 😊. Have you used it in your composting totes? I’m guessing to buy it would be more expensive than beer or bakers yeast…? ❤️🪱
Each video I learn lots more from you! You have the best channel. I heard you mention yeast briefly. What role could that play in this process?
Hi Jenn! Thanks so much for your compliment ❤️. I really appreciate the feedback 👍. It keeps me going 🤗.
I often use yeast as a microbial booster when making the indoor (and sometimes patio!) table top (always off the ground by at least a few feet) pre-compost. I generally use it during the 2nd heating cycle. Yeast is particularly good at breaking down fibers - which is what cardboard is. It is of course a good biota in and of itself ❤️.
Sometimes I don’t add it at all - I forget to or it doesn’t seem to need it (as in the case of the big boy tote) or I need the bedding faster than what the necessary cool down period would be after such a nice heat boost from the yeast.
It doesn’t take alot of yeast either. A packet is normally a 1/4 ounce amount and will work fine. I’ve used a tablespoon amount and that’s a lot! I always activate it first with warm water and a bit of sugar, then add it into the pre-compost bin after it’s foaming and do a thorough mix in.
I think (don’t know for sure) adding yeast to the pre-compost mix would be a really good idea when composting in the cooler fall and winter months if doing it outside (a patio or garage or shed location) as the heat boost would help offset the cooler air temps and get the biota established and working faster.
Does that answer your question sufficiently?
I’m so glad you asked! I tend the throw out quite a bit of information and I don’t always clarify as much as I should, as I’m trying to not make hour long videos 🤣😳🪱❤️.
@RockinWorms it does answer my question sufficiently, yes! Each and every detail of this fascinates me. Chalk it up to the chemistry and physics labs in my past. lol. I took note of your maximum tempature after 24 hours, and how it decreased over time. I'd be temped to stir a little so it would cool to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Yesterday, got to work with the notes I took from your video. The Instant Pot vessel is half full, cardboard scrids continue to be shredded...
You asked me to let you know about my breeder bins (about a month ago lol.) I dug deep into my wormery to separate out the red wigglers, roughly 150 of them. After my precompost is done, I'll seperate those with a clitellum and follow the notes from your video.
Thanks again for sharing your tips and enthusiasm. It is a joy. 🥰
@@jenn1ferschonberger Hello! I took the pre-compost out of the middle green bin (the one that had only gone thru one heat/cool cycle) that was at 102 degrees and spread it out into a long bin. It cooled pretty quick down to 82-84 degrees - you were spot in!
I’ve been using it to refresh my grow out bins as I sift what I can out of them. I’m being able to take out just under half. That allows me enough room to aerate the worms down to the now empty end and feed and reload with the pre-compost at the working end off the bin (a la wedge system movement). The worms will start to move into the fresh bedding pretty fast I think, allowing me to sift the newly vacated old castings relatively quickly. Then I can replace that space with fresh bedding as well and be back to a good place with the bins. No more super old castings! Well, it’s going to take me a week to get thru all the bins but at least I’ve started!
I love that your using an Instant Pot vessel! Great using of what you already have on hand!!
I’m confident that your scientific background will allow you to come up with some great new ways of doing things 🤩. Please share when you do 👍❤️🪱.
Thanks again for being so supportive of me ❤️
Good day, I watched your video, like all, and followed exactly what you did to prepare the precomposted bedding for my ANC. But something is wrong, after 11 days it is still not heating up and I don't know why. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Hi Nikolaus! Welcome! I’m sorry you’re having trouble with the pre-compost. Let’s figure this out!
What ratio of carbon to nitrogen did you use? Was is shredded cardboard and coffee grounds or other stuff?
What did you use as your microbial activator? Yucky veggie slurry? Worm castings? Soil? Do you happen to have yeast on hand?
How moist is the material? Can you squeeze liquid out of it? Is everything well mixed up and the carbon/nitrogen material is all damp?
What’s your ambient temperature?
❤️🪱🪱
Good day, the ratio is about 70% carbon, 30% nitrogen, it is shredded cardboard plus coffee grounds plus cow manure.
As microbial activator I used worm castings and blended veggies, but no yeast. The moisture should be okay, if I squeeze it a few drops are coming out and all is nice damp.
Day temperature is 84F to 88F.
Night temperature is 78F to 82F.
For me it seems all to be okay, but until now it doesn't heat up.
Maybe I should try to put some yeast inside.
Thank you
@@nikolausschwabe Hello! You’ve absolutely have the recipe down. It’s obviously not cold ambient temps either. The cow manure will have biota in it as well. Hmm. I’d suggest you add more nitrogen into the mix. 70/30 is the safe slower way to compost and is a good starting point for beginners. I’ve moved on to closer to a 45/55 or 50/50 eyeballed ratio of carbon to nitrogen. If you have yeast on hand then activate it and add. If you don’t then just add in more coffee grounds and enough liquid to maintain the dampness you’ve already established, which sounds perfect.
How the airflow? I apologize if you already said. Remind me 😊.
I made the same purito rolls and covered it copying your system, I forgot to mention I also put coconut coil inside.
The air humidity is high too mostly between 80% to 90%.
I am in the Philippines. Yes I have dry yest, I will dissolve it and add it with more blended veggies
Thanks for your great kindness and help. I really appreciate it
@@nikolausschwabe really have all the pieces. The higher carbon ratio at the start does make the process slower if you don’t have a lot of biota going in at the same time via moldy veggies, worm castings, manure, etc. It takes time for the biota to grow but 11 days is too long for sure 😡. Frankly, I’m stumped.
Does any Castings Crew or anyone in TH-cam land have any suggestions?? I’m opening up the door wide here! Let’s help Nikolaus out!
In the meantimes, yes, add in more nitrogen and yeast. Do activate the yeast first - it works better that way. In case you don’t know, use a glass or ceramic bowl and not metal. Warm water and a good add of sugar will get it started. It takes 5-15 minutes to start to see activation 😊
Keep us posted! ❤️🪱🪱
Hi Jane. What do you do to combat gnats in your worm bin?
Hi Shantel! I haven’t had much of an issue with gnats. I’ve had one or 2 rarely so I don’t consider it an issue. Burying the food as deep as you can (at bottom of a 5-6” deep bin) will help. Others have used products like mosquito dunks and mosquito bits dissolved in water and used the treated water when spraying the bin.
Another thing I’ve just started doing is to let my frozen foods defrost before feeding. This releases a huge amount of water. I squeeze the veg to release even more water before adding the food into the worm bin.
The new ides - so not tested - is that I (you) could ’re-dampen’ the food with the mosquito dunk/bits water before adding to the bin. This would put the treatment right where the problem manifests itself.
I’m also moving more toward using dry food in the worm bins when I can - worm chow or dehydrated veggie powders. The massive removal of moisture from the foods initially will, I believe but still testing this, kill a lot of insect eggs much more effectively that freezing does. It’s the eggs that is really the issue. If we can kill the eggs before hatch then we are solving the problem at its root cause.
Is this helpful to you at all?
Thanks!
Thank you! That’s very kind of you to give me a super thanks donation!!! I appreciate it very much ❤️❤️❤️
What kind of yeast are you using name please so I get the rite thing
Hi Greg! Welcome! I use standard bakers yeast. The brand is Fleshmann’s but any brand of yeast will work fine. I activate it before putting it into pre-compost bin using warm water and some sugar. Instructions will be on the back of the yeast package. Use a glass or ceramic bowl, not metal 👍❤️🪱
@RockinWorms greetings jayne. harvested castings this morning and got 16# this time - woo hoo !!! not why i'm posing this question though. i saw a youtuber that was using rice, cooked i believe, to get his bedding thermophilic. i have never used rice in bedding or compost because i have always read or heard that is wasn't safe because of bad bacteria cultures. i have never seen or heard of anyone else using rice but people do use it for lactobacillus cultures. i was just wondering if you ever have and/or what your thoughts might be. thanks.
Hi Ron! I have used rice rinse water occasionally in making the pre-compost. Rice water is supposedly very good for encouraging fungi development. I have seen fungi in some of the totes but didn’t track if those totes were the rice water totes. I should have! Next time I’ll try to track that. I’ve never put actually rice into any bin or tote. A video by the Northern Thai Garden Guy shows him putting in rice into his pre-composting bin and getting great biota results. I don’t recall if it went thermophilic or not.
I would not put rice into a worm bin. I’d be very concerned that it would heat up past the safe range for worms. I believe Patrick at Vermicomposting Learn by Doing did an experiment with rice in his outdoor worm bag and did find that it heated up quite a bit and went past the safe temperature zone for worms. Since he had the rice in a concentrated area the worms were able to remain on the edges of the heat zone until it cooled down enough.
I would not be overly concerned about the type of bacteria or fungi specifically growing in the compost due to rice. The worms don’t care what kind it is, they’ll happily eat it all when the pre-compost hits their bin. 😆👍.
So in summary, I’d be ok with rice in a composting tote but never a worm bin. I’d be ok with feeding the rice compaot to the worms after it had gone thru the heating and cooling cycle(s) and was temperature appropriate for the worms. Ok? ❤️🪱
I’ve really been struggling with pre-compost and don’t know where to turn. I follow your methods and it mostly cold compost because it doesn’t reach high temperatures. I don’t add any food after I make the initial bedding and it ages for six weeks. The temperature of the bedding is room temperature when I add to my worm bins. However.. everytime I add the pre compost to my worm bins it heats up past 100 degrees and kills some of my worms. This is the second time it has done this. This is the same compost that sat for six weeks.. and I never added any additional food source so I don’t understand why the microbes start becoming active again. I tried to turn the compost a few times to extract more heat cycles the second time around but with no luck before adding… I’m at a loss but about to give up on it all together.
I’m really sorry to hear how much trouble you’re having with the pre-compost, especially it causing worm die off in your worm bins 😩😡. That’s just terrible! Let’s see if we can figure this out.
Ok. So the pre-compost simply isn’t composting in its tote. Perhaps a little cold composting as you note but not any hot composting. Since you’ve aerated it let’s cross that off the culprit list.
What about there not being enough nitrogen in the pre-compost mix, along with enough moisture to make the mix be thoroughly damp…? Nitrogen is what is hot feeding the microbes which in turn reproduce like crazy, eat like crazy, and give off heat as a by product. If your ratio is low on nitrogen you get the cold composting until a nitrogen boost is added…. Like the food and even the castings in the worm bin. If the mix is dry and then gets moisture from the worm bin contents that would further activate the biota and kick start hot composting. Do you think any of this is likely what’s happening?
If misery loves company, you do have it. Some worm wranglers do struggle with pre-composting. It’s a challenge for me to diagnose what’s off without being there in person 😬.
If you’d like we can set up a zoom or FaceTime call and perhaps we can get a better idea of what’s going wrong. You can email me at RockinWFamilyFarm@gmail.com 😊.
@@RockinWorms I use roughly about 50 percent coffee grounds and shredded cardboard. I also add tons of kitchen slurry when making the initial batch. I add tons of moisture to my bin but it always seems like it drains out the bottom and needs more. I may need to do a better job of having the cardboard thoroughly absorbed the water. I do dig two holes in the compost to promote aeration. What’s crazy to me is the same bedding simply being moved from the bin to the worm bin and slight moisture added causes it to spike.. I don’t add any food or anything just the pre-compost. What makes to even crazier.. I also mixed up the left over pre-compost since I didn’t use it all up, added more moisture and it’s still cooler than the worm bags by about 15 degrees lol. I don’t understand what’s going on :(
@@kylewestrom7849 Frankly I don’t either! Something is being added or triggered in the worm bins that isn’t in the pre-compost tote.
What volume is your pre-composting tote? Have you tried jacking up the biota in the pre-compost tote by adding activated yeast? If we can get the pre-compost hot composting then it’ll be safe in the worms bins after it cools down.
This is confounding! 😩🪱🤷♂️
@@RockinWorms I agree with your assessment. It’s a 38 gallon bin. I usually fill it up to the top. I do keep the lid on with screened air holes on the top for oxygen. I have tried yeast in the past I haven’t done it on this batch. I’m wondering if it’s either more oxygen or moisture causing it? I don’t see it could be anything else. I also forgot to mention that I’m loading it into a Vermibag bag CTF system.
@@kylewestrom7849 Screened air holes in a solid top may not be enough. I tried loose plastic on top once and it didn’t work. The biota is using up a lot of oxygen and it needs to be replenished constantly. That’s why the ‘open’ too often screening and dry cardboard shred works so well. There’s no barrier for the air to get to the pre-compost.
I started out with quite moist, even a tiny bit wet, pre-compost mix way back when. Now I keep it damp. And even if it dries out on top I don’t worry about it too much. I throw on splashes of liquid when I think of it 🙄. BUT this is after having made dozens of batches and getting really familiar with my specific mix.
A 38 gallon tote is a good size! Even halfway full you’re at the 18-20 gallon tote size I recommend starting with to learn on. I don’t think the size or volume is the issue then.
I go back to adding liquid and mixing very well. Adding a biota booster like yeast or castings. And a bit more nitrogen to get away from cold composting.
🤞🤞🤞
Have you tried this with leaves hmmm I think will try this fall mix some leaves in and see how it does I do want to get those minerals in there for my plants 😊
Hello! I have a small bin of leaves I’m turning into leaf mold. I started it quite a few months ago and other than rarely remembering to add a splash of liquid, I’ve ignored it 🥲. I also have several large troughs (stock tanks) that I’ve put leaves into that Mother Nature is working on at her leisure. While I’ve generally stopped adding in ‘fresh dried’ leaves into my worm bins - in order to accelerate castings production - I fully expect to be adding leaves in again in the future.
A tip I read about making leaf mold is to use rice water as the liquid. The specific starch the rice gives off really helps break the leaves down. You might want to give that a try 😊.
Adding in trace minerals is a really good idea! It follows Liebig’s Law of Minimums. I’m adding in azomite to achieve the same thing.
Please keep us updated on how your experience goes 🪱🪱❤️!
I appreciate your video. Glad it turned up in my feed. I’m new at vermicomposting, so I appreciate all the information I can get. I had just been putting shredded paper and card board straight in my bin. I like the idea of precomposting. But I’m a little confused on cool down and heat up process. Thanks!
@@Annie-vg5bk Hi Annie! Welcome 🤗! Please ask any questions you have. I’ll do me best to answer 😊. If you have had the chance yet, you may want to watch the 7 video series I made on how to make pre-compost. It’ll provide you with some fundamental information that will help with understanding the process and what is actually happening. Here’s the link:
Indoor Table Top Pre-Composting Bin
th-cam.com/play/PLUW0xTNzqrJp2nsLeHt-8OKFqP9XEZ-PE.html
Basically, due to the increase in the number of biota eating, breathing and multiplying within a pile of compost material, their activity makes the pile heat up. Since they like heat, that makes them even happier and they eat and breathe and multiply even more! At the point where they start to exhaust the food source (carbon and nitrogen), they slow down on eating and multiply. This reduces the heat they’re putting out. This slow down results in the pile cooling down.
This is called one heating/ cooling cycle 👍. To kick off a 2nd cycle you add more food to the pile (carbon and nitrogen) and the cycle starts back up again. You can do as many calories cleaning as you have space and time and food for but 2 cycles is the sweet spot for pre-composting for worm bedding.
I look forward to hearing how your worm journey progresses! 👍🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms Thank you, I’ll definitely check that out.
@@RockinWorms there it is again, rice . . .
Please you should put online all the names what you put in the worm bedding 😅
Hi again Carlos! It’s a very simple base recipe that you can tweak to work with whatever you have on hand.
1) I use between 55-75% shredded cardboard and paper (mostly cardboard)
2) 25-45% used coffee grounds
3) Lastly, enough liquid (veggie slurry but worm tea, water etc in a pinch) to make the cardboard and coffee grounds very moist.
That’s it! 3 ingredients. Oh, here’s another video (a short) on that:
th-cam.com/users/shorts8uCvN6wgAws
If you have more questions, please ask! Thanks for watching 👍🪱🪱
I started with arounded 500 worms after starting to be so many of them so I both another farm tower with 3 box now are só many again why born so Mach? Have to feed them every 2 weeks they eating a lots now come up on cover and I sink maybe hot days só I did put on top box 5 litres of fresh filter water a bit by bit I sink they love it they stop to come up to the cover the first farm are 4 to 5 box in Tower the second tower are 3 boxes but much more large some worms are so bigger over 10cm
@@CarlosAnselmo-be4nw Your worms are loving the environment you are providing them! They are showing their appreciation by breeding like crazy! And growing bigger 👍.
If you want to slow down their reproduction, you can keep them a bit more crowded. Worms will stabilize their numbers to match the space and food they have. Here’s a video where I talk about that a bit:
7 Ways to Manage Your Worm Population
th-cam.com/video/n_G8K1We0XE/w-d-xo.html
Of you have more worms than you want, you might get a few ideas from the above video.
By the way, lots of worm wranglers would be happy to have your problem! 😆👍🪱
I use 550 micro cut cardboard and peat moss then add coffee and some rabbit poop let it sit for 2 or 3 days and am not aware off heat-What do you do with yeast ?0
Hi John! That’s sounds like a great mix for composting. Do you add any liquid to it? If it’s all dry material and basically stays that way it’ll take much longer to breakdown. It’ll be a type of cold composting I believe where heat generated is very low and slow due to slow bacterial growth. It certainly is an effective composting method, it just takes a lot longer. It’ll take your worms and the biota ecosystem in a worm bin longer to turn it all into castings. Again, not a bad thing at all. Just depends on what you’re looking for.
The yeast is a ‘hot shot’ of active fungi that will eat thru the composting material rapidly. It’ll multiply rapidly as well, generating a lot of heat in the process. All this activity breaks the compost material down quickly, making it easily edible and digestible by the worms and other biota in a worm bin ecosystem. That then means fast castings generation!
If you haven’t had the chance yet, my playlist on the pre-composting method I use may answer some additional questions you may have 😊. Here’s the link:
Indoor Table Top Pre-Composting Bin
th-cam.com/play/PLUW0xTNzqrJp2nsLeHt-8OKFqP9XEZ-PE.html
Thanks for watching and asking questions! 🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms wasn't clear I do that I add water let it off gas and then I'll put my worms right in and I don't understand why yours is heating up yeah I don't have that problem
@@johnpierce227 Hmmm. I don’t know why either! Just shredded cardboard, coffee ground and liquid in the form of a vegetable slurry - nothing else - will start it heating up. Not super hot but over 100 degrees…. Usually in the 109-113 range. Adding yeast will spike it higher of course.
If I had to guess I’d say it was the rabbit poop that maybe buffering what you’re doing…? Rabbit manure is one of the only manures that doesn’t have to be aged before putting into a worm bin (again due to heating actions). But that doesn’t feel like it’s entirely enough to offset the other materials.
Well, one additional thought - if you’re cold composting that would also have a no heat result. That entails a high level of carbon relative to the nitrogen sources. Could that be it?
I just make the bedding and adds worms
@@johnpierce227 What I’m saying is that if the bedding is quite high in carbon relative to the nitrogen it’s certainly still good bedding but it won’t compost/heat up the same as bedding that has a lower carbon to nitrogen ratio. I’d love to understand why you get one action and I get a different one but this messaging back and forth probably isn’t going to let that happen.
The important thing is that what you’re doing works for you and your worms!! ❤️🪱
It appears you are still dwelling on precomposted instead of prepared. At any rate I made some prepared bedding today with shredded paper and cardboard along with some old castings. To this I added de-chlorinated water with unsulphered molasses mixed in as food for the microbes/bacteria. I used a 5 gal bucket for this but it does seem like this wont be enough for a grow out bin.
@@yes350yes Hi Morris! I absolutely make pre-compost waaaay more than prepared bedding. I only make prepared bedding when I’ve run out of pre-compost or it’s taking a long time to cool down 😩.
Your mix will work for prepared bedding. The small amount will struggle to heat up and/or maintain heat. And as you say, you’ll use it up fast. Do you have any 18 gallon-ish sized totes around? 🪱🪱
Wow I love that pool lol I can come??
Sure you can! Buy that plane ticket and I’ll pick you up at the airport! 🤗😎.
@@RockinWorms that would be amazing…. But I expect with my medical conditions you wouldn’t cope with me. Many think I’m a nutter too lol.
@@RockinWorms precomps is up to 80f I know the temp is 15c not sure what that is in f but will check next time.
I’m gonna start shredding more paper and cardboard to go in… and I talked to mum yesterday about the shredder and she said maybe her and my bro go half’s for me for Christmas. So may do that. To give me a cross shredder. So be smaller then long bits.
@@cherylhowker1792 Maybe you wouldn’t want to cope with me! 🤣🤗😎.
@@cherylhowker1792 That would be a nice gift! Either a cross cut or a micro cut shredder would make like easier 😊❤️🪱
What happens if you use tap water?
Hello! Welcome! It depends on where/how the water is treated before it comes out of the tap. If you have well water that isn’t treated with chlorine or chloramine then it’s good to go. If it’s chlorine then simply exposing it to the air for a day will allow the chlorine to dissipate. Chloramine will not dissipate. It needs to be chemical treated to neutralize it. Vitamin C/ascorbic acid is supposed to work. 40mg per gallon. You can call your local water authority to ask what’s used to treat drinking water in your area. ❤️🪱
@@RockinWorms Thank you so much! I called them and it's just chlorine, I forgot to give you an update. :) so what I did was I use water that I let sit for a day or more. It works just fine.
@@topfactsaboutx Chlorine is the easiest to mitigate. Glad a phone call gave you what you needed to know. ❤️🪱🪱
❤🪱❤🙏💞💞👍😊👍🥀
But🤔 Madam, l wish you wouldadd the Arabic translation, We are thankful to you🙏💞
Hello! I have no idea on how to do that 🥲. I’ll look into it as I can. Unless you or some some can tell me how to do it…?
@@RockinWorms
Madam , you have some of the e episodes translated, l hope eveveyone is translated, thank you with all due respect🙏🌹🌸🥀👍
@@القناص-و7م Hi! If any episodes are translated it’s by accident as I have not done anything knowingly to make that happen. I am glad at least some are being translated and are easier for you to watch and listen to! Thank you for your support and determination to learn more about worm farming! 🪱🪱❤️
Happy to see another segment on the precomposted bedding, and prepared bedding as well! I've only really been able to do prepared bedding thus far, but my worms seem pretty happy with it. My harvest time has been ranging between 60-90 days since starting to use prepared bedding exclusively. 😊
I gotta question for you! So as you know, I'm now on my journey to precomposted bedding myself, and I am having some issues with it. Seems mine is tapping out at 108F, and trying to throw more nitrogen in it last time gave me an ammonia smell, so I threw in a bunch of carbon to remedy that. Cleared up quickly, but now I am wondering if there is a way to bump my temps any higher without running into the ammonia problem again. Temps are averaging 104F, which just feels lackluster. 🥲 Thinking I might have to take the divider out to do the full 43 gallons at one time rather than half and half. Might not be enough area for the bacteria to do their magic at half capacity?
Also, getting another heat cycle entails adding more carbon and nitrogen after a cool-off cycle to kick it back into action, right?
Hi Evelyn! Sorry for the delay getting back to your question. It sounds like your prepared bedding is working just fine! 60-90 days to harvest most of the bedding as castings is really pretty good for prepared bedding. You’ll find fully pre-composted bedding will go a lot faster, as you’ve seen in my bins 👍.
Yes, generally speaking I do add more carbon and nitrogen with more veggie slurry when I start the 2nd heat/cool cycle. The volume in the bin has reduced significantly from the 1st cycle so adding in the new material bulks it back up as well as giving the biota new food sources. I have found a significant and easily seen difference between bedding that’s only had one cycle vs two, even if the 1st cycle went thermophilic. I’m not sure if it’s more due to increased biota working or just the longer breakdown time a 2nd cycle provides or a combo, but the 2nd cycle is really good to do if you can.
As far as your temps go, while 108 and 104 isn’t impressive, it’s still a sign that the biota are working. Do you have access to yeast? That could give it a boost without adding nitrogen or liquid that could go anaerobic. If you don’t, just add small amounts of nitrogen over several days and see what happens.
For the bulk question I’d say removing the divider would help. If you have a 43 gallon tumbler, divided it’s 21.5 gallons and you’re not filling it full as you need room for the material to actually tumble. So now you’re down to 15-17 gallons more than likely. This is a very acceptable volume and near what my 18 gallon bins operate at where I normally achieve high temps around 113 degrees without yeast. So your temps are a bit lower and we talked about that above. But if you combine the 2 tumbler areas you’ll get much more volume working in your favor and I’d expect you’ll get much higher temps as well.
Do make sure you have enough moisture in the mixture. I’ve actually cut back a bit on the amount of liquid I add to reduce pooling in the bin bottom corners but absolutely make sure the mix isn’t dry.
I hope this helps you! Please continue to keep us apprised 🪱❤️
@@RockinWorms Oh, you're fine! I'm actually just now getting to your video since I've been really busy with the new house. 😅 Trying to play catch-up whenever I get any downtime.
No yeast at the moment, though I do have some sourdough starter. I just worry about the acids in that if I were to use it. Guess I could buffer with powdered eggshell and just be sure to test pH before I feed to the worms?
Think I'll work on taking the divider out maybe tomorrow. Then I'll definitely need to get my grounds to fill the bin rapidly. Slow to start on that cuz I just attained the buckets for them to fill.
Thanks for taking the time to answer all of my questions! As an aside, I did get it up to 110F with my last feeding, and I have lots of mold on my check-in this morning (they look like little grey pompoms!), so that's fun!
@@evelynknight5627 Hi! 110 degrees is very respectable so congratulations 🎊 !
I would be ok with adding some sourdough starter into the pre-compost mix. I would NOT add it directly into a worm bin. Someone did that and reported not good results 😳. The compositing process will take care of any excess acidity and come out neutral. Of course it’s always a good idea to test if you can 😊. If you have a neighborhood bakery they might be willing to sell you a 1/4 cup of yeast. That would last you a few composting batches.
@@evelynknight5627 Hi! 110 degrees is very respectable so congratulations 🎊 ! The fact that you can see bacteria blooms says you are in the zone.
I would be ok with adding some sourdough starter into the pre-compost mix. I would NOT add it directly into a worm bin. Someone did that and reported not good results 😳. The compositing process will take care of any excess acidity and come out neutral. Of course it’s always a good idea to test if you can 😊. If you have a neighborhood bakery they might be willing to sell you a 1/4 cup of yeast. That would last you a few composting batches. But circling back, you have bacteria blooms so you can rest on your laurels for now if you want, let it cool back down to 100 degrees or so then give it the 2nd round boost. You’re doing great!!
@@RockinWorms That's encouraging! Thank you! I might still take out the divider because I am greedy and want to see if I can push the temp to 120F maybe. 🤞 And I'll wake my starters up from their dehydrated state and give that a go. Thank you again so much! 🤗