Hi Samantha! Thanks so much for the shout out for the pre-composting method! ❤ You’re on target for fantastic results 👍. A teeny tiny clarification is that mesophilic and thermophilic bacteria stop at 133F. Going over that brings in other bacteria that the worms don’t seem to like or do well with 😩. Your big trough looks awesome! The mass you have there will definitely add to the heat generation. I’m interested in seeing how the addition of the chunky veggie scraps perform in the pre-compost.😎 I feel for you making the mix in the heat. I sweat like crazy too making it in this heat and humidity 🥵 I’ll be back for your follow up!! 🪱
@RockingWorms you have confused me a bit on the thermophilic stopping at 133F it is my understanding that is when thermophilic starts. Themophilic starts at 140F to 160F.. Then when it cools back down goes back into Mesophilic. compost.css.cornell.edu/microorg.html If I am missing something please let me know.
@@MemesWorms if I’m reading the article you linked correctly it more or less says what I said. Mesophilic activity is from around 68F (which it doesn’t reference but is) to 104F (I have read it up to about 113F but I happy to go with the 104F). Then thermophilic bacteria starts to take over for the 104F to around 133F range. Above 133F starts a new bacteria stage but that stuff isn’t very worm friendly. The mesophilic bacteria makes a come back as the pre-compost cools down below the 104F (or 113F). It takes time for that to happen and for it to spread throughout the material. It the pre-compost isn’t used right away it’s the mesophilic bacteria (and other biota) that continues to work to break the material down. 🪱
@@MemesWorms cCopied from the excellent article you linked: As the temperature rises above about 40°C, the mesophilic microorganisms become less competitive and are replaced by others that are thermophilic, or heat-loving. At temperatures of 55°C and above, many microorganisms that are human or plant pathogens are destroyed. Because temperatures over about 65°C kill many forms of microbes and limit the rate of decomposition, compost managers use aeration and mixing to keep the temperature below this point.
@@RockinWorms after our conversation on the phone today it sent me back to researching and asking others for imput. This is what I have found. The mesophelic 50F-105F and moves into Themophelic in temps excess of 105F to 160F.The most active thermophilic phase typically happens at temperatures between 131°F (55°C) and 160°F (71°C). When the temperature of compost rises above 160°F (71°C), it is often referred to as the "extremely thermophilic" or "hyperthermophilic" stage. So having said all this It is my honest opinion that mesphelic is upto 105F and Thermophilic is above 105F to 160F and hyperthermophilic is above 160F.
We use a cheap cement mixer from Harbor Freight to mix our feed grains for the sheep. It would work for mixing pre compost on a larger scale as well! Thank you for your great videos Meme❤
Funny that you mention this because I was going to say a compost tumbler works amazing for this. I mix mine and leave it in the tumbler until it’s time to use it. I can put 15 gallons on each side for a total of 30 gallons. I always have one side going and one side I pull from . Since I don’t have enough cardboard I use pine pellets that are used as horse bedding and a mix of coffee ground and alfalfa pellets. Mixing by hand is some serious dedication. If it works maybe making or buying some compost tumblers, placed at the end of each row, would be worth it.
You could do Jadam liquid mixes in your precompost too. Although if rice water is enough, I’m going to try that out with my mix. And shoutout to Tabitha for being such a trooper!
When I am ready to make a batch of pre-compost I will soak my shredded cardboard overnight with the water/veg juices, then mix in the coffee grounds the next day. I collect from a local Starbucks daily so I am able to let the coffee cure for a while, using the oldest for the compost mix. I mix it in large mortar trays, fluffing it daily until my drum composter is finished with previous batch (usually one week). Finished compost is stored in 27 gal totes. I mix equal parts of finished compost and horse manure for my bedding.
Here in the UK, I've a small fruit & vegetable growing area (2,200ft²) all no till & I go through about 200ft³ of compost a year. I probably use 500lbs of cardboard & a similar amount of coffee grounds, as well as all my own vegetable waste, grass clippings & weeds from other people. I don't have vegetable juice but & do produce a fair amount of "recycled" beer & wine... OK so I'm initially 'hot' composting (as in over 130°F) but after the single turn I give from one bay to the next, the material falls below 90°F inside a month & then the worms really get going (I harvest around 20lbs of worms a year for my own use use in competitive fishing matches). These are 90% _Dendrobaena hortensis_ & the rest a small redworm whose species I don't know. Only ever driven through southern Georgia, as when in the US, I'm either visiting friends in Albuquerque, NM or further north, in Rome, GA.
Yeah peat moss and cardboard are thirsty. I always expect to water it more the next day. Can't really do it all at once because it take time for it to absorb the water. Otherwise you'll have a stagnant pool at the bottom
My worms only get pre compost, I was doing it the same way but have swapped over to using my 2 compost tumblers, I find it less backbreaking. I turn them about twice per day, I have the kind with double barrels and a turning handle, so it is not hard to turn. I stagger the filling of them so I have a constant supply on rotation.
"Videotaping" had me laughing! Haven't heard that in ages. I'm very curious how you'll keep the compost at 130 with all those grounds and veggies juices. I compost and use both to heat my compost to the 165. I love learning new things.
For home composters the Amazon Basic 24 sheet amzn.to/3AfdcvA works the best. Sometimes i took off all the tape and other times I did not. Now we have the commercial shredder that pulverizes it it's called a cyclone.
@larryhobbs8769 if you are a home composter I would suggest the Amazon Basic amzn.to/3WJFHKL it won't overheat. I used these for years before investing in a commercial one. If you are looking for a commercial one I would suggest the cyclone. I have a video on it.
Thank you for the reply Samatha ( Meme) im not large ive got 40 morter totes and a 8’ cft this was my first year going commercial selling castings and tea at my local farmers market im 76 years old and trying to make some supplemental income to help us out ive been worming since 2018 by watching cpt. matt and i watch your videos i really enjoy and learn from them!
I used to mix my "STARBUCKS" grounds without gloves but I got super dosed with caffeine & found that I absorbed a hell of a dose as I got real giggly FOR almost an hour {BEWARE}
@jmajick4415 when the temps get higher there certain microbes that die off and others come in. You then have to wait for it to cool down for at least 45 days for the mesophelic micro es to return. Pathogens start dying off at 131F so i like 133F if kept there for 3 days it will kill the pathogens but not too high to kill off the mesophelic microbes. However to kill weed seeds you have to be above 150F i believe. This is only used for pre compost to use for breed8ng. If i were making compost for castings i would go the traditional composting method. I for one would not want weed seeds in the castings or pathogens. That is why inlike the 133F so i atleadt kill the pathogens that could potentially harm someone if thwy use the castings on edibales.
Hi Samantha! Thanks so much for the shout out for the pre-composting method! ❤ You’re on target for fantastic results 👍. A teeny tiny clarification is that mesophilic and thermophilic bacteria stop at 133F. Going over that brings in other bacteria that the worms don’t seem to like or do well with 😩. Your big trough looks awesome! The mass you have there will definitely add to the heat generation. I’m interested in seeing how the addition of the chunky veggie scraps perform in the pre-compost.😎 I feel for you making the mix in the heat. I sweat like crazy too making it in this heat and humidity 🥵 I’ll be back for your follow up!! 🪱
@RockinWorms after our conversation on the phone today it sent me back to researching and asking others for imput. This is what I have found. The mesophelic 50F-105F and moves into Themophelic in temps excess of 105F to 160F.The most active thermophilic phase typically happens at temperatures between 131°F (55°C) and 160°F (71°C). When the temperature of compost rises above 160°F (71°C), it is often referred to as the "extremely thermophilic" or "hyperthermophilic" stage. So having said all this It is my honest opinion that mesphelic is upto 105F and Thermophilic is above 105F to 160F and hyperthermophilic is above 160F.
I keep mine around 130-140F since sometimes I add horse manure and that temp held for a week will kill off any fly eggs or larva that might be in there. The worms seem fine as long as it doesn’t get above 150F, after that they won’t move into it quickly when I test each batch by adding to one end of a few bins. After a week they are all over it, but they don’t seem to produce as many cocoons and definitely don’t put on weight as quickly.
@@MemesWorms I am happy to agree with your honest opinion 😍. The few degrees difference in where mesophilic ends and thermophilic starts isn’t as critical to me as a worm wrangler as what pre-compost end result makes my worms happy in the quickest turn around time possible. Others have different goals and concerns. They absolutely should take whatever actions are needed to reach those goals. 😊🪱🪱
I'm in awe of your commitment to raising the bar on commercial worm farming and taking us along for the ride.
~ Sandra
@nanasworms Thank you! Its all about tryi g new things and seeing what happens.
Hi Samantha! Thanks so much for the shout out for the pre-composting method! ❤
You’re on target for fantastic results 👍.
A teeny tiny clarification is that mesophilic and thermophilic bacteria stop at 133F. Going over that brings in other bacteria that the worms don’t seem to like or do well with 😩.
Your big trough looks awesome! The mass you have there will definitely add to the heat generation.
I’m interested in seeing how the addition of the chunky veggie scraps perform in the pre-compost.😎
I feel for you making the mix in the heat. I sweat like crazy too making it in this heat and humidity 🥵
I’ll be back for your follow up!! 🪱
Your science videos are great Sandra! I’ve learned a lot from them ❤
@RockingWorms you have confused me a bit on the thermophilic stopping at 133F it is my understanding that is when thermophilic starts. Themophilic starts at 140F to 160F.. Then when it cools back down goes back into Mesophilic. compost.css.cornell.edu/microorg.html If I am missing something please let me know.
@@MemesWorms if I’m reading the article you linked correctly it more or less says what I said. Mesophilic activity is from around 68F (which it doesn’t reference but is) to 104F (I have read it up to about 113F but I happy to go with the 104F). Then thermophilic bacteria starts to take over for the 104F to around 133F range. Above 133F starts a new bacteria stage but that stuff isn’t very worm friendly.
The mesophilic bacteria makes a come back as the pre-compost cools down below the 104F (or 113F). It takes time for that to happen and for it to spread throughout the material. It the pre-compost isn’t used right away it’s the mesophilic bacteria (and other biota) that continues to work to break the material down. 🪱
@@MemesWorms cCopied from the excellent article you linked:
As the temperature rises above about 40°C, the mesophilic microorganisms become less competitive and are replaced by others that are thermophilic, or heat-loving. At temperatures of 55°C and above, many microorganisms that are human or plant pathogens are destroyed. Because temperatures over about 65°C kill many forms of microbes and limit the rate of decomposition, compost managers use aeration and mixing to keep the temperature below this point.
@@RockinWorms after our conversation on the phone today it sent me back to researching and asking others for imput. This is what I have found. The mesophelic 50F-105F and moves into Themophelic in temps excess of 105F to 160F.The most active thermophilic phase typically happens at temperatures between 131°F (55°C) and 160°F (71°C). When the temperature of compost rises above 160°F (71°C), it is often referred to as the "extremely thermophilic" or "hyperthermophilic" stage.
So having said all this It is my honest opinion that mesphelic is upto 105F and Thermophilic is above 105F to 160F and hyperthermophilic is above 160F.
We use a cheap cement mixer from Harbor Freight to mix our feed grains for the sheep. It would work for mixing pre compost on a larger scale as well! Thank you for your great videos Meme❤
@folsterfarms I have one just didnt feel like getting it out at the time lol. Ill try it on the next batch.
Funny that you mention this because I was going to say a compost tumbler works amazing for this. I mix mine and leave it in the tumbler until it’s time to use it. I can put 15 gallons on each side for a total of 30 gallons. I always have one side going and one side I pull from .
Since I don’t have enough cardboard I use pine pellets that are used as horse bedding and a mix of coffee ground and alfalfa pellets.
Mixing by hand is some serious dedication. If it works maybe making or buying some compost tumblers, placed at the end of each row, would be worth it.
Aw, thanks so much for the shout out. I hope to do another Worm Science video soon ❤️❤️
~ Sandra
@nanasworms looking foward to it!
@nanasworms I love the series and cant wait for the next one.
Boy, you work real hard.
You could do Jadam liquid mixes in your precompost too. Although if rice water is enough, I’m going to try that out with my mix. And shoutout to Tabitha for being such a trooper!
When I am ready to make a batch of pre-compost I will soak my shredded cardboard overnight with the water/veg juices, then mix in the coffee grounds the next day.
I collect from a local Starbucks daily so I am able to let the coffee cure for a while, using the oldest for the compost mix.
I mix it in large mortar trays, fluffing it daily until my drum composter is finished with previous batch (usually one week).
Finished compost is stored in 27 gal totes.
I mix equal parts of finished compost and horse manure for my bedding.
Thanks for the information. Very helpful.
Here in the UK, I've a small fruit & vegetable growing area (2,200ft²) all no till & I go through about 200ft³ of compost a year.
I probably use 500lbs of cardboard & a similar amount of coffee grounds, as well as all my own vegetable waste, grass clippings & weeds from other people.
I don't have vegetable juice but & do produce a fair amount of "recycled" beer & wine...
OK so I'm initially 'hot' composting (as in over 130°F) but after the single turn I give from one bay to the next, the material falls below 90°F inside a month & then the worms really get going (I harvest around 20lbs of worms a year for my own use use in competitive fishing matches). These are 90% _Dendrobaena hortensis_ & the rest a small redworm whose species I don't know.
Only ever driven through southern Georgia, as when in the US, I'm either visiting friends in Albuquerque, NM or further north, in Rome, GA.
If ever you are close come stop by!!
If you are thinking of doing this large scale. I would use a huge container and use a large tiller to mix all the ingredients up
I use a cement mixer to make soil for my garden. I think that would be a great idea to mix your precompost on a large scale.
Yeah peat moss and cardboard are thirsty. I always expect to water it more the next day. Can't really do it all at once because it take time for it to absorb the water. Otherwise you'll have a stagnant pool at the bottom
My worms only get pre compost, I was doing it the same way but have swapped over to using my 2 compost tumblers, I find it less backbreaking. I turn them about twice per day, I have the kind with double barrels and a turning handle, so it is not hard to turn. I stagger the filling of them so I have a constant supply on rotation.
"Videotaping" had me laughing! Haven't heard that in ages. I'm very curious how you'll keep the compost at 130 with all those grounds and veggies juices. I compost and use both to heat my compost to the 165. I love learning new things.
Well im ages old lol. Having the ratio we have its more carbon based
Love your videos! What paper shredder are you using?
We use an amazon basic 24 sheet for srips and the kobra commercial for pulverised.
@@MemesWorms Thank you for your quick reply!! I will continue to follow your videos!
@@ThrottleAbuser-ov1nr Awesome and you are very welcome!
Hi Meme thanks for the awesome video.
Exactly what kind of shredder do you have and do you remove all the tape before you shred it up?
For home composters the Amazon Basic 24 sheet amzn.to/3AfdcvA works the best. Sometimes i took off all the tape and other times I did not. Now we have the commercial shredder that pulverizes it it's called a cyclone.
What kind of shredder do you have that pulverized the card board like that? I love it❤ I've started pre composting from Jane's videos. Works great!!!
Its called a cyclone. Its a commercial shredder.
Heres a video of it in action th-cam.com/video/EcKSAHOcCIg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you!@@MemesWorms
I’m thrilled you’re giving my pre- compost method a try too! ❤🪱
@rockinworms you inspired me to try it on a larger scale.
What machine do you use to make the pulverized cardboard
I have a shredder that does a cross cut that I'm happy with but that looks really nice
Its called a cyclone shredder
Is spent coffee ph neutral or do you check it after it’s mixed? When it heats up does it knock down the acidity?
I have never tested the acidity.
Great video. What kind of cardboard shredder do you use or suggest?
Thanks
@larryhobbs8769 if you are a home composter I would suggest the Amazon Basic amzn.to/3WJFHKL it won't overheat. I used these for years before investing in a commercial one. If you are looking for a commercial one I would suggest the cyclone. I have a video on it.
@@MemesWorms thank you
@@larryhobbs8769Be sure to get one that takes 15 or more pages! I also bought a ZipSnip that helps me cup up the cardboard (I have bad hands).
Great video can’t wait to see the results after the worms break it done 🇳🇿🪱
Stay tuned
Rewatching. My precompost stinks. I assume it went anaerobic. I added more leaves and stirred it up.
That should help. Add more if you need to.
I’m in Maryland and it’s hot here
It is here as well
What equipment do you use to shred the cardboard?
For the strips an amazon basic 24 sheet and the pulverized is a kobra cyclone
@@MemesWormsdo you have a model number on the Kobra? The one I saw was $30k 😮
@@corydoyal8709 that would be correct.
@@corydoyal8709 i bought it used for less
@@MemesWorms looks like a beast!
how do you pulverize your cardboard meme
With a kobra cyclone
Thank you for the
reply Samatha ( Meme) im not large ive got 40 morter totes and a 8’ cft this was my first year going commercial selling castings and tea at my local farmers market im 76 years old and trying to make some supplemental income to help us out ive been worming since 2018 by watching cpt. matt and i watch your videos i really enjoy and learn from them!
So glad you are having fun with it!
I used to mix my "STARBUCKS" grounds without gloves but I got super dosed with caffeine & found that I absorbed a hell of a dose as I got real giggly FOR almost an hour {BEWARE}
That's funny!!
Maybe put it in a cement mixer
i’ve got a great commercial cardboard shredder
Jerry @ Willow Creek Worm Farm in “Michigan
What kind? I have a kobra cyclone.
I would love to see your setup!
Why don't you want it going thermophilic? This is the first time I've seen someone avoid it
@jmajick4415 when the temps get higher there certain microbes that die off and others come in. You then have to wait for it to cool down for at least 45 days for the mesophelic micro es to return. Pathogens start dying off at 131F so i like 133F if kept there for 3 days it will kill the pathogens but not too high to kill off the mesophelic microbes. However to kill weed seeds you have to be above 150F i believe. This is only used for pre compost to use for breed8ng. If i were making compost for castings i would go the traditional composting method. I for one would not want weed seeds in the castings or pathogens. That is why inlike the 133F so i atleadt kill the pathogens that could potentially harm someone if thwy use the castings on edibales.
@@MemesWorms Thank you so much for that information!
@@jmajick4415 you are welcome
Did I see chicken in the glob of stuff? I wouldn't put meat, dairy or oils in that.
No lol no meat!!!
Hi Samantha! Thanks so much for the shout out for the pre-composting method! ❤
You’re on target for fantastic results 👍.
A teeny tiny clarification is that mesophilic and thermophilic bacteria stop at 133F. Going over that brings in other bacteria that the worms don’t seem to like or do well with 😩.
Your big trough looks awesome! The mass you have there will definitely add to the heat generation.
I’m interested in seeing how the addition of the chunky veggie scraps perform in the pre-compost.😎
I feel for you making the mix in the heat. I sweat like crazy too making it in this heat and humidity 🥵
I’ll be back for your follow up!! 🪱
@RockinWorms after our conversation on the phone today it sent me back to researching and asking others for imput. This is what I have found. The mesophelic 50F-105F and moves into Themophelic in temps excess of 105F to 160F.The most active thermophilic phase typically happens at temperatures between 131°F (55°C) and 160°F (71°C). When the temperature of compost rises above 160°F (71°C), it is often referred to as the "extremely thermophilic" or "hyperthermophilic" stage.
So having said all this It is my honest opinion that mesphelic is upto 105F and Thermophilic is above 105F to 160F and hyperthermophilic is above 160F.
I keep mine around 130-140F since sometimes I add horse manure and that temp held for a week will kill off any fly eggs or larva that might be in there. The worms seem fine as long as it doesn’t get above 150F, after that they won’t move into it quickly when I test each batch by adding to one end of a few bins. After a week they are all over it, but they don’t seem to produce as many cocoons and definitely don’t put on weight as quickly.
@@MemesWorms I am happy to agree with your honest opinion 😍. The few degrees difference in where mesophilic ends and thermophilic starts isn’t as critical to me as a worm wrangler as what pre-compost end result makes my worms happy in the quickest turn around time possible. Others have different goals and concerns. They absolutely should take whatever actions are needed to reach those goals. 😊🪱🪱
@@RockinWorms absolutley agree! Im gonna try to keep mine at about 133 if i can.