The transition from boat-build channel to cruising channel has been seamless, and seems to agree with you as much as it does with me. 👍 Please keep Hazel on board as long as you can, she's a real asset.
I've been waiting for a demo of how a wind vane works, neat! Thanks Tony. We all know you'll have her dialed in-in no time. When things don't work out as planned we end up learning even more, a pain at the time to be sure lol, but still true. Loving these shots of Tapatya and other boats sailing with a tilt near you.
Thank you for an extremely clear demonstration of how the wind vane works, Tony. I'm so pleased that you have enjoyed your experiences in France, so far. Those crepes looked pretty delicious! I'm very much looking forward to your Biscay crossing; another nautical test for Taptya and her crew. Fair winds as always. All my best wishes to Hazel- Chris
Tony, I think you'll get better results in light winds if you drill two more holes closer to the pivot point so you can move the counter-weights further up the leg which should increase the sensitivity of the vane. Using 'Wing Nuts' to hold the weights will allow quick changes. I had an engine room wing nut that always vibrated loose, so I made a 'Wing Trap' from some wire bent into an exclamation point, put a screw through the point and swung the parallel legs over the wings. Oh, and the best thing I installed on my Sailboats stern was a spring loaded outboard mount. If the engine failed in 'no-wind' I could just push the dingy outboard down into the water and start it up. Enough power to move safely and get home... One of the first things I did to ensure cold weather sailing comfort was to ask my canvas guy, Elvis' to make a sectional cover that went from the dodger to the davits, with roll down sides. 360 degree clear panels and no more bone chilling wind or rain. Kept the sea spray down too! The panels were linked with velcro patches so I could go on deck quickly... Just an old sea dog's observation...✌🏼
Tony I am sure you will figure the wind vane fine tuning out, but if the current set up lacks ‘power’ how about giving it less work to do by increasing the distance from the pivot point of the trim tab so it has less work to do. I am enjoying the journey and thanks for sharing.😀⛵️👍
Thanks Norman. Yes, increasing the length of the ‘T’ on top of the trim tab would be a good way to increase vane power. I’ll keep that as a serious option 👍
I have a Windpilot Pacific which is a servo pendulum steering system. I had to get the steering lines as close to 90 degrees to the tiller for it to work well. Maybe that will work for you.
I believe its the angle of the last turn, the lower pulleys need to be moved down by quite a margin. the angle between the trimtab shaft and last lenght of line should be as close to 90degrees as possible. Then wind vane size and usually people carry several sizes for different conditions. Clearly you are very close just some tweeking to get it perfect. Sail trim has an effect as well how is the boat for weather helm.
Yes indeed, I quite agree, although the angle of the trim tab shaft is deceiving and the lines are certainly close to 90deg. I’ll check it again and adjust accordingly. I do have 3 different vane sizes, but I think the biggest is still too small 👍
Thank you for a very nice video, Tony and Hazel. Watched your quick update over on Patreon and am looking forward to seeing how your crossing of the Bay of Biscay goes. Take care and best wishes for good weather and smooth sailing.
Hopefully you sort the windvane out when you showed coastline with its lovely jagged rock I think it shows the power of the sea on the shape of the rocks good luck with the planning of biscay Bay
Yes, you have, some systems have different sized vanes that can be swapped. Others have one vane with adjustable rake. Raking aft presents less effective surface area.
How large is the vane you are using? I have Alan Mulholland's plans for Mk3 and see that he recommends a 28" vane for light airs. Do you need an even larger one? I suppose it depends on the rudder, hull shape and various factors. Alan did mention in a video a few weeks ago that it took a while before his Mk1 finally kicked in as he sailed into the Pacific on his first circumnavigation. He still can't say what it was, only that it may have had to do with the control lines. Maybe you've got it figured out already. In which case, I'll just say that I'm very impressed and inspired by this project. Well done, it's a lovely boat! Fair winds and following seas to you both :)
I believe the lines of the windvane which turn the trim tab should be crossed, the crosspoint should be between the pivot point of the trim tab and the pivot point of the rudder at 20% of the distance between the pivot points, from the pivot point of the rudder. This way the rudder will not oversteer. And yes, I think you need to have the lines being tight, yet keeping them light going 😉 Alan (who designed and itterated this windvane) has the rollers way lower just above the tiller.
Yes, the roller block position is all about keeping the lines running at 90 deg to the trim tab stock, so it rather depends on the angle of that. In the plans ( if I remember correctly), Alan says they should be at 90 deg to the rudder stock, but I believe that is not the case if rudder and trim tab stock are not parallel. I can see no advantage in crossing the lines - their run depends entirely on the way the vane and tower unit are pointing, but I’ll ponder on it 👍
@@SVTapatya take a look at how Alan of Wave Rover has it set up, the lines cross. Reason is: when the vane turns the tab, the rudder will start to move, lets say the vane stays in the same (not upright) position, when the lines run parallel, the angle of the trim tab to the rudder will get extremer the further the rudder turns. Now try the same when the lines are crossed at the point between the pivot points -> same scenario, but as the rudder turns, the trim tab will align with the rudder, preventing the rudder to overturn, but more important -> as the vane get‘s back in the upright position, the trim tab will send the rudder back to the neutral position. I hope this helps, it‘s hard to write the mechanical logic in words 😂
The transition from boat-build channel to cruising channel has been seamless, and seems to agree with you as much as it does with me. 👍
Please keep Hazel on board as long as you can, she's a real asset.
Thanks Jaygee. Well, she’ll be back on her own boat soon, but I date say we’ll be seeing her for a while yet 👍😃
I've been waiting for a demo of how a wind vane works, neat! Thanks Tony. We all know you'll have her dialed in-in no time. When things don't work out as planned we end up learning even more, a pain at the time to be sure lol, but still true.
Loving these shots of Tapatya and other boats sailing with a tilt near you.
Thanks Alston. Yes, I’m sure it’ll work, eventually! 👍😃
Thank you for an extremely clear demonstration of how the wind vane works, Tony. I'm so pleased that you have enjoyed your experiences in France, so far. Those crepes looked pretty delicious! I'm very much looking forward to your Biscay crossing; another nautical test for Taptya and her crew. Fair winds as always. All my best wishes to Hazel- Chris
Thank you Chris. Yes, Biscay coming soon!
And France has been so good, we’re planning to come back!
Tony, I think you'll get better results in light winds if you drill two more holes closer to the pivot point so you can move the counter-weights further up the leg which should increase the sensitivity of the vane. Using 'Wing Nuts' to hold the weights will allow quick changes. I had an engine room wing nut that always vibrated loose, so I made a 'Wing Trap' from some wire bent into an exclamation point, put a screw through the point and swung the parallel legs over the wings. Oh, and the best thing I installed on my Sailboats stern was a spring loaded outboard mount. If the engine failed in 'no-wind' I could just push the dingy outboard down into the water and start it up. Enough power to move safely and get home... One of the first things I did to ensure cold weather sailing comfort was to ask my canvas guy, Elvis' to make a sectional cover that went from the dodger to the davits, with roll down sides. 360 degree clear panels and no more bone chilling wind or rain. Kept the sea spray down too! The panels were linked with velcro patches so I could go on deck quickly... Just an old sea dog's observation...✌🏼
Thanks Mike. Yes I quite agree on all of your points and most of them are firmly in mind for future projects 👍😃😃
Tony I am sure you will figure the wind vane fine tuning out, but if the current set up lacks ‘power’ how about giving it less work to do by increasing the distance from the pivot point of the trim tab so it has less work to do. I am enjoying the journey and thanks for sharing.😀⛵️👍
Thanks Norman. Yes, increasing the length of the ‘T’ on top of the trim tab would be a good way to increase vane power. I’ll keep that as a serious option 👍
I have a Windpilot Pacific which is a servo pendulum steering system. I had to get the steering lines as close to 90 degrees to the tiller for it to work well. Maybe that will work for you.
Thank you. Good info 😃😃
Enjoyed the video! Sore from. Physically Therapy today! You take care! ❤❤❤❤🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍🍍
Thanks Melinda. Hope that physiotherapy is doing you some good 👍
@SVTapatya yes it is, thank you.
Very nice video, the seaside villages in France look gorgeous
They are, Henk. Thank you 😃
I believe its the angle of the last turn, the lower pulleys need to be moved down by quite a margin. the angle between the trimtab shaft and last lenght of line should be as close to 90degrees as possible. Then wind vane size and usually people carry several sizes for different conditions. Clearly you are very close just some tweeking to get it perfect.
Sail trim has an effect as well how is the boat for weather helm.
Yes indeed, I quite agree, although the angle of the trim tab shaft is deceiving and the lines are certainly close to 90deg. I’ll check it again and adjust accordingly. I do have 3 different vane sizes, but I think the biggest is still too small 👍
Brilliant as usual just take your to time and have fun
Thank you Graeme. We certainly intend to take a bit more time to explore once we’ve got to Hazel’s boat ( should be soon) 😃
@@SVTapatya you going to miss her when she back on her boat but father daughter boat race sound fun make it a Treasure hunt or a pub crawl 😂
Thank you for a very nice video, Tony and Hazel. Watched your quick update over on Patreon and am looking forward to seeing how your crossing of the Bay of Biscay goes. Take care and best wishes for good weather and smooth sailing.
Thank you Matt. That is very much appreciated 👍😃
Hopefully you sort the windvane out when you showed coastline with its lovely jagged rock I think it shows the power of the sea on the shape of the rocks good luck with the planning of biscay Bay
Best of luck crossing the Bay and may it be Orca free 😀
Thanks Chris. Yes indeed! 👍
Nice one..🙂👍
Thanks R.E. 😃😃
Hello Tony, iam sure ive seen wind vane systems where you get three different sizes of vane depending on wind strength
Yes, you have, some systems have different sized vanes that can be swapped. Others have one vane with adjustable rake. Raking aft presents less effective surface area.
Thanks Nick. Yes I have 3 different vanes, I just strongly suspect the big one is not big enough 🤔
Lovely video.
Thanks Dan 😃😃
I'm going with your supposition that the lines need to feed more perpendicular.
Thanks Geoffrey. Yes, I’ll make some adjustments when I get a chance 👍😃
How large is the vane you are using? I have Alan Mulholland's plans for Mk3 and see that he recommends a 28" vane for light airs. Do you need an even larger one? I suppose it depends on the rudder, hull shape and various factors.
Alan did mention in a video a few weeks ago that it took a while before his Mk1 finally kicked in as he sailed into the Pacific on his first circumnavigation. He still can't say what it was, only that it may have had to do with the control lines.
Maybe you've got it figured out already. In which case, I'll just say that I'm very impressed and inspired by this project. Well done, it's a lovely boat! Fair winds and following seas to you both :)
Yes, I’m certainly going to make a bigger one when I get the chance! 👍
I believe the lines of the windvane which turn the trim tab should be crossed, the crosspoint should be between the pivot point of the trim tab and the pivot point of the rudder at 20% of the distance between the pivot points, from the pivot point of the rudder.
This way the rudder will not oversteer. And yes, I think you need to have the lines being tight, yet keeping them light going 😉
Alan (who designed and itterated this windvane) has the rollers way lower just above the tiller.
Yes, the roller block position is all about keeping the lines running at 90 deg to the trim tab stock, so it rather depends on the angle of that. In the plans ( if I remember correctly), Alan says they should be at 90 deg to the rudder stock, but I believe that is not the case if rudder and trim tab stock are not parallel.
I can see no advantage in crossing the lines - their run depends entirely on the way the vane and tower unit are pointing, but I’ll ponder on it 👍
@@SVTapatya take a look at how Alan of Wave Rover has it set up, the lines cross.
Reason is: when the vane turns the tab, the rudder will start to move, lets say the vane stays in the same (not upright) position, when the lines run parallel, the angle of the trim tab to the rudder will get extremer the further the rudder turns. Now try the same when the lines are crossed at the point between the pivot points -> same scenario, but as the rudder turns, the trim tab will align with the rudder, preventing the rudder to overturn, but more important -> as the vane get‘s back in the upright position, the trim tab will send the rudder back to the neutral position. I hope this helps, it‘s hard to write the mechanical logic in words 😂
Thank you. Yes, I see your point, and it’s a good one! I’ll experiment with that.