I'm watching this video and just want to say please anyone working with floor jacks people put jack stands in addition the jack don't take a chance it's not worth it with all due respect to this gentleman
You are absolutely correct. I even have it posted in my shop and didn't do it here. It's easy to overlook safety, but it can end badly. I appreciate your input. Thank you for watching.
Thank you so much for posting these. Just picked up an 05 Tundra with 125k on it. Passenger LBJ was replaced by previous owner but considering the horror stories I want to double check everything.
You are certainly welcome. Yes it's a good idea to check everything over. I'm a maintenance junkie so check my trucks out at every oil change (sometimes sooner) Don't want an unexpected failure. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support of my channel.
My truck has all 4 ball joints replaced under the recall it still failed. My tire came off at 35mph. It's now on its 4 set of ball joints. I now have 36mm uniball upper ball joints with upgraded control arms. 380,000 miles i went ahead and put new upper and lower ball joints,halfshaft,Rack and pinon with diff drop down kit. And now I'm doing all new wheel bearings with axle seals. Koyo OEM for the bearings.
Wow! Sounds awesome. It'll be better than new! Always good to use quality parts too. I love the koyo bearings. Best of luck as you finish up the project. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support.
I’ve heard both Moog and 555 are crap and that you should always use OEM for these, especially considering the well known issues and recall with the ball joints in these.
I agree that OEM is best. I've heard and seen Moogs are junk. I've never had issue with 555 stuff. My current Tundra has OEM as does my 4runner. I will not use anything but OEM moving forward. I have heard that 555 is not a good choice, as their quality has gone down hill recently. I like the piece of mind of OEM stuff. Those 555s had 30k miles on them when I took that front end apart and they were fine. But reality is OEM are best. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I would love to do a video on that but I don't know anyone that needs that right now. But if it comes up, I'll do it. Thanks for the suggestion. And thanks for watching and commenting
Gotta Admit I chuckled when you said the pickle fork would get the BJ out..."ALLEGEDLY" 🤣 Great Video will definitely be tackling this soon as I can grab the parts. Onward.
I know people have smacked those lower control arms for years to get the lbjs out but I have worked with metal for years and I know it can change shape with force. So I have a hard time pounding on them. I think a pickle fork or other puller is better to use to remove the joints.
Awesome, that's good advice. I didn't know that. I'll use a fork from now on. Thanks for sharing that and thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
Great video if the lower ball joints are bad. The upper ball joint should be replaced even though they’re not bad because eventually they’re gonna go bad? Specially, with a Tacoma with 200,000 miles?
@@funjunkiegarage Thanks for the reply. I check my 09 Tacoma doing your method I don't see any movement by lower control arm & ball joint. However, I think I feel a rattle underneath driving on bumpy roads. The truck has 200,712 miles purchased new OEM suspension only replaced passengerside wheelbearing years ago.
Hey man! I love the video. Nicely detailed and very straight forward. I do want to ask, how are those ball joints holding up? I've heard a lot of horror stories about people using non-OEM LBJ's and them failing prematurely. I thought that was due to lack of greasing, and have heard stories of people using LBJ's without grease zerks, then installing grease zerks into them and the ball joints lasting a while. So I was curious to see how these have held up. OEM are very expensive.
I've now put 14,500 miles on these. I check them every oil change and it's due again in 500 miles. Holding up just fine at this point. I ran the 555s on a 3rd gen wheelin rig for 2 years and they were just fine after less than 8000 miles, but 2 very hard years. I'd only use the 555 or OEM, but I like it that the 555 are greasable. Never personally added zerks to ones without. I did put OEM in my current 3rd gen. Thanks for watching and asking!
@@funjunkiegarage Hey I really appreciate you replying! I haven't received many replies to my comments regarding this category. I have 246k miles on my truck, and I bought it from a one owner (father in law) who had it since new. The ball joints were replaced under warranty at 18k miles. So I have been very weary seeing that I have a couple of long trips coming up this month. I understand that our first gen tundra's were a very bad design with the lower control arms, and with the other vehicles I've owned, I never had a similar doubt to what I do now. So I really do appreciate your input and video, this has swayed my opinion of spending over 300 dollars alone just for the LBJ's from the dealership. Any ball joint's that I have replaced prior, have always been greasable aftermarket ones that haven't failed me.
I have a 07 sequioa and it has a lot of vibration road noise I have changed struts shocks stabilizer end links and bushings. What were your symptoms for the bad ball joints??
Popping and clunking when turning. Play in steering wheel. Check them like I did in the video. Check your tires first. Then check for play in the left front half shaft at the differential housing. That bearing goes bad and can cause a vibration. If you can wiggle the shaft there's play there, replace it with East Coast Gear Supply solid bushing. I have a video on that as well. Thanks for watching.
FYI: Toyota has a Free Dealer installed replacement for a safety recall on ALL 2000-2003 Trucks Tundra,tacoma,4Runner,sequoia,highlander. Bad design/strenght can cause them to fall ot while driven (my son's did) and could get you killed depending on our speed. If you decide to do it ourself ALWASY USE OEM ball joints. They do cost double+ compared to after market but hay..
This truck had already had the recall done. I did the 555 brand as a test sort of, they lasted nearly 30k miles without issue and the truck was a total loss at that milage. My current 2000 Tundra has OEM on it and I agree they are the best and worth the money. My 2000 also had the recall done. I changed them at about 180k miles with OEM. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the ball joints. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Hey T4. Thanks for the video. I’ll be doing this on my 05 Tundra. Do you know if the 04 4Runners have the same LBJ issues? That’s the car my daughter drives.
Depending on what strut they are using. For me that's about a 3 to 3.5 hour job if all goes well. So around 325.00 labor for me. A local shop, where my friend works charges 135.00 per hour. I can get all 4 ball joints for less than 500.00 from my Toyota dealer, that's for OEM stuff. Strut price would be additional. Again, that's me and my shop rate of 55.00 an hour. Hope that helps
I'd like to think they had some grease in them but I did pump grease into each one after I installed them. I cannot recall how much I added. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@funjunkiegarage thanks it did it pushed my fender into the passenger door. I had to buy a new one and have it paint matched as well as replace the inner fender liner.
Sadly that truck is no longer in service. But at almost 30k miles on them when I took the front end apart they were still like new. I'd definitely do them again
My father needs to replace these on his 3rd Gen 4Runner (220k on originals) and thinks it's "not such a thing." Well, it's time for me to show him the play coming from the lower ball joints!!!
I have experienced this failure in my 1998 land cruiser prado 90 series the same suspension set up as your US 3rd gen runner fortunately it was on slow corrugated dusty track so my tyres skidded on its sides without pulling out the upper bj though my cv shaft popped out. Changed two sets within a year. Don't buy any brand that sells products manufactured in china. I don't know about the greasable 555 but the sankei 3806 (555)non greasable ones has been holding on pretty good for the past two years of driving 80% on bad roads. No plays yet.
Didn't you need to press the ball joint inthere?? What am I missing?? I saw other videos where they have to rent a tool from Auto Zone to press the ball joint in or to remove it... Maybe im wrong 🤔
I got mine from Rock Auto, look up the 555 part # on google then go to Rock Auto and put it in the search box or go to ball joints and find the #. Sometimes they are under Moog or AC Delco heading. Other than 555s I'd go OEM from a Toyota dealer.
@@funjunkiegarage thank you. Had another question. My mechanic checked my front suspension already. He couldn't find anything wrong with it. The issue I'm having when traveling at a high speed or low speed. Once I take my foot off the gas pedal. The front suspension starts to rumble and shake. That's without applying the brake. Truck keep wearing out the tires from the outside and inside. Had the checked out by my mechanic. Couldn't find anything wrong. Told him it might be the lower ball joints. He checked them. He said they are fine. But im still not convinced. Truck has brand new tires. It has been balanced and aligned. Any idea what might be wrong?
Wow, I don't know what it could be that isn't obvious to your mechanic. Check the driver side front CV axle where it goes into the differential for up/down play. That bearing goes bad and can cause the axle to wobble. Check all the front control arm bushings upper and lower for play. Check the steering rack for excessive end play and check the rack bushings for wear, it's common on these for the right side bushing to deteriorate. I'll think on it some more but that's all I got off the top of my head.
@@funjunkiegarage thx for the reply....I have a 01 Tundra 2wheel drive and the closest I am finding on RockAuto with 3 fives is the Beck/Arnley. This should be if not OEM parts..at least this is what I have read on different sites. Thx!
You often have to look at the pics or google a 555 part # then look it up. I had selected 555 (at the time advertised as such) and they came in a moog box to my house.
Worn bushings can cause it to feel sloppy. Usually over bumps at higher speeds. Is it at slow speeds? Is it only when turning tight? May be your differential.
They range in price from $90.00 to $160.00 each. I shop around and check for the part # at rock auto and parts geek and others. I avoid ebay. I paid $110.00 each for the ones I intalled here.
I replaced my gen 1 tundra with Moog parts, they were fine but I had just gotten the truck and wanted to cover all the known failure points. 10k KM later, my steering wheel shakes like hell and the steering jerks wildly over bumps. I checked like you did in the video, they were so shot its not even funny. the movement in the video does not hold a candle to how fucked mine were, to all my early 2000s yota owners. STAY AWAY FROM MOOG!
Wow! I'm glad you didn't have a failure while driving. I also had a moog that didn't last 10k miles. These 555 were still in good shape at 30k miles when the truck was totaled. I definitely use OEM on LBJs from now on. I second the stay away from moog. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage I should also add that after I replaced the balljoints, I noticed that there was still a lot of play in the steering wheel, turns out that my busted balljoints somehow caused the L bracket holding the powersteering rack to the frame had a massive crack on the weld, causing the whole rack to shift whenever I was steering! Truck is doing fine now with 310k KM and towing my racecar to the track every weekend!
Wow, glad you got it all fixed without incident. Good to hear it's up and working again. Thanks for the update and thanks for watching. I appreciate your support.
That's awesome! Are they still good? I've heard stories of them lasting for a crazy long time. Thanks for sharing. Let me know when they need changed please. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience. I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage no knocking noise coming from the joints, no leaking grease no steering issues. Pretty sure they are still good. Got the truck off the original owner and he never had them done.
Wow! That's fantastic. Be sure to keep an eye on them, if they fail at speed it can be pretty bad. My current 2000 Tundra had 181,000 miles on the originals when I had a slight accident and had to replace all of the front suspension. I went with OEM Toyota everything. At 197,000 now. Be sure to check those every oil change. I appreciate it. Thanks so much for the support.
I'm watching this video and just want to say please anyone working with floor jacks people put jack stands in addition the jack don't take a chance it's not worth it with all due respect to this gentleman
You are absolutely correct.
I even have it posted in my shop and didn't do it here. It's easy to overlook safety, but it can end badly. I appreciate your input.
Thank you for watching.
Thank you so much for posting these. Just picked up an 05 Tundra with 125k on it. Passenger LBJ was replaced by previous owner but considering the horror stories I want to double check everything.
You are certainly welcome.
Yes it's a good idea to check everything over.
I'm a maintenance junkie so check my trucks out at every oil change (sometimes sooner)
Don't want an unexpected failure.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support of my channel.
Watchin you make me want to go out in the garage and start working my tools. Lol
Hahahaha nice.
There is always something that needs repaired or modified. If not then it's time to build something.
Thanks for checking out my show!
awesome cauter pin tip w the socket
Thanks man.
It can be a time and headache saver for sure.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I really appreciate it.
My truck has all 4 ball joints replaced under the recall it still failed. My tire came off at 35mph. It's now on its 4 set of ball joints. I now have 36mm uniball upper ball joints with upgraded control arms. 380,000 miles i went ahead and put new upper and lower ball joints,halfshaft,Rack and pinon with diff drop down kit. And now I'm doing all new wheel bearings with axle seals. Koyo OEM for the bearings.
Wow! Sounds awesome.
It'll be better than new!
Always good to use quality parts too.
I love the koyo bearings. Best of luck as you finish up the project.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support.
This was super helpful. Love trick to show it moving. Very clear. Thanks
Thanks for watching.
Glad it was helpful.
Appreciate ya.
6:50 when he said "Damn" I felt that
Hahahahahahaha, yeah, that was a tough one to get apart.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
sweet video... your voice reminds me of Dennis Miller back in the SNL days!
Thanks for watching.
Always enjoyed him on weekend update.
Yes, it is a poor design.
Very important to check them regularly.
And use quality parts.
I’ve heard both Moog and 555 are crap and that you should always use OEM for these, especially considering the well known issues and recall with the ball joints in these.
I agree that OEM is best.
I've heard and seen Moogs are junk.
I've never had issue with 555 stuff.
My current Tundra has OEM as does my 4runner.
I will not use anything but OEM moving forward.
I have heard that 555 is not a good choice, as their quality has gone down hill recently.
I like the piece of mind of OEM stuff.
Those 555s had 30k miles on them when I took that front end apart and they were fine.
But reality is OEM are best.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
This is excellent instructions from an obviously great mechanic. Thank you sir
You're welcome.
And thank you for the kind words.
Appreciate you watching.
You should have a video for 2016-2019 Tacoma R&R on a lower ball joint.
I would love to do a video on that but I don't know anyone that needs that right now.
But if it comes up, I'll do it.
Thanks for the suggestion. And thanks for watching and commenting
Gotta Admit I chuckled when you said the pickle fork would get the BJ out..."ALLEGEDLY" 🤣
Great Video will definitely be tackling this soon as I can grab the parts. Onward.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I appreciate your support.
Enjoy your project.
Great video
Thank you.
I appreciate your support.
I know people have smacked those lower control arms for years to get the lbjs out but I have worked with metal for years and I know it can change shape with force. So I have a hard time pounding on them. I think a pickle fork or other puller is better to use to remove the joints.
Awesome, that's good advice.
I didn't know that.
I'll use a fork from now on.
Thanks for sharing that and thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
Excellent
Thank you, much appreciated!
Awesome video thank you so much for sharing
You're welcome.
Thanks for watching.
Appreciate it.
Great video if the lower ball joints are bad. The upper ball joint should be replaced even though they’re not bad because eventually they’re gonna go bad? Specially, with a Tacoma with 200,000 miles?
Thank you.
It certainly couldn't hurt to replace them at the same time .
@@funjunkiegarage Thanks for the reply. I check my 09 Tacoma doing your method I don't see any movement by lower control arm & ball joint. However, I think I feel a rattle underneath driving on bumpy roads. The truck has 200,712 miles purchased new OEM suspension only replaced passengerside wheelbearing years ago.
With over 200,000 miles on the factory parts I'd definitely change them.
Hey man! I love the video. Nicely detailed and very straight forward. I do want to ask, how are those ball joints holding up? I've heard a lot of horror stories about people using non-OEM LBJ's and them failing prematurely. I thought that was due to lack of greasing, and have heard stories of people using LBJ's without grease zerks, then installing grease zerks into them and the ball joints lasting a while. So I was curious to see how these have held up. OEM are very expensive.
I've now put 14,500 miles on these.
I check them every oil change and it's due again in 500 miles.
Holding up just fine at this point. I ran the 555s on a 3rd gen wheelin rig for 2 years and they were just fine after less than 8000 miles, but 2 very hard years.
I'd only use the 555 or OEM, but I like it that the 555 are greasable.
Never personally added zerks to ones without.
I did put OEM in my current 3rd gen.
Thanks for watching and asking!
@@funjunkiegarage Hey I really appreciate you replying! I haven't received many replies to my comments regarding this category. I have 246k miles on my truck, and I bought it from a one owner (father in law) who had it since new. The ball joints were replaced under warranty at 18k miles. So I have been very weary seeing that I have a couple of long trips coming up this month. I understand that our first gen tundra's were a very bad design with the lower control arms, and with the other vehicles I've owned, I never had a similar doubt to what I do now. So I really do appreciate your input and video, this has swayed my opinion of spending over 300 dollars alone just for the LBJ's from the dealership. Any ball joint's that I have replaced prior, have always been greasable aftermarket ones that haven't failed me.
Just keep an eye on them and check them at every oil change. They will give warning signs. Appreciate ya.
Thank you for this
You're welcome.
Thanks for watching.
Good video sir!
Thank you, I appreciate that.
I have a 07 sequioa and it has a lot of vibration road noise I have changed struts shocks stabilizer end links and bushings. What were your symptoms for the bad ball joints??
Popping and clunking when turning.
Play in steering wheel. Check them like I did in the video.
Check your tires first. Then check for play in the left front half shaft at the differential housing.
That bearing goes bad and can cause a vibration. If you can wiggle the shaft there's play there, replace it with East Coast Gear Supply solid bushing.
I have a video on that as well.
Thanks for watching.
FYI: Toyota has a Free Dealer installed replacement for a safety recall on ALL 2000-2003 Trucks Tundra,tacoma,4Runner,sequoia,highlander. Bad design/strenght can cause them to fall ot while driven (my son's did) and could get you killed depending on our speed. If you decide to do it ourself ALWASY USE OEM ball joints. They do cost double+ compared to after market but hay..
This truck had already had the recall done.
I did the 555 brand as a test sort of, they lasted nearly 30k miles without issue and the truck was a total loss at that milage.
My current 2000 Tundra has OEM on it and I agree they are the best and worth the money.
My 2000 also had the recall done. I changed them at about 180k miles with OEM.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the ball joints.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
I'm the original owner of my 2003 Tacoma. I'm going to call the dealer and ask about that. Thanks.
I need new rack and pinion should i get the Toyota OEM or the parts store one?
I ordered mine from Rock Auto.
Was much less expensive and has been working fine. I've put nearly 30k on it with no issues.
Thanks for watching.
Hey T4. Thanks for the video. I’ll be doing this on my 05 Tundra. Do you know if the 04 4Runners have the same LBJ issues? That’s the car my daughter drives.
No, the 4th gen 4runner(03 -09) has a different design.
Thanks for watching.
How much would upper and lower ball joints cost to replace on a 2001 tundra? I was quoted $1700 for the ball joints and struts but that includes labor
Depending on what strut they are using.
For me that's about a 3 to 3.5 hour job if all goes well. So around 325.00 labor for me. A local shop, where my friend works charges 135.00 per hour.
I can get all 4 ball joints for less than 500.00 from my Toyota dealer, that's for OEM stuff. Strut price would be additional. Again, that's me and my shop rate of 55.00 an hour.
Hope that helps
do the 555 lbj come pregreased? or did you have pump grease in before installing?
I'd like to think they had some grease in them but I did pump grease into each one after I installed them. I cannot recall how much I added.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
It's to late I lost a tire driving down the road. Snapped my halfshaft and ripped my abs and brake line off all together.
Oh no!
That sucks. Hope you are ok.
It's easy to replace parts.
No body damage, I hope.
@@funjunkiegarage thanks it did it pushed my fender into the passenger door. I had to buy a new one and have it paint matched as well as replace the inner fender liner.
Not too bad.
how has that sankei 555 lbj held up? I kind of wanted save a few bucks on my sequoia...
Sadly that truck is no longer in service.
But at almost 30k miles on them when I took the front end apart they were still like new. I'd definitely do them again
@@funjunkiegarage oh no what happened!? thanks for your reply, truly appreciate it.
You're welcome.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Sadly it had terrible frame rust and it broke at the front suspension.
@@funjunkiegarage aw that terrible sorry to hear bout that, I wish you well in your future endeavors.
Thank you, best wishes to you as well.
My father needs to replace these on his 3rd Gen 4Runner (220k on originals) and thinks it's "not such a thing." Well, it's time for me to show him the play coming from the lower ball joints!!!
It's a very big thing if one fails.
Show him the "lower ball joint failure" group on Facebook.
It's so easy and not expensive.
Thanks for watching!
I have experienced this failure in my 1998 land cruiser prado 90 series the same suspension set up as your US 3rd gen runner fortunately it was on slow corrugated dusty track so my tyres skidded on its sides without pulling out the upper bj though my cv shaft popped out. Changed two sets within a year. Don't buy any brand that sells products manufactured in china.
I don't know about the greasable 555 but the sankei 3806 (555)non greasable ones has been holding on pretty good for the past two years of driving 80% on bad roads. No plays yet.
Glad it didn't cause much damage.
I use OEM or 555 always.
Thanks for watching.
@@hokz7283 greaseable 555 (3802) are total trash, never use them
And 3806 are really good
Thanks for the information.
Didn't you need to press the ball joint inthere?? What am I missing?? I saw other videos where they have to rent a tool from Auto Zone to press the ball joint in or to remove it... Maybe im wrong 🤔
The upper ball joint has to be pressed in and out. The lower is bolt on.
Could be different in later years or other vehicles.
Thanks for watching
The AC Delco right lower ball joint for an '05-'07 Sequoia [and probably Tundra] are 555's. Good part, way better than Moog.
Agree, a better part. Thanks for the info.
@@funjunkiegarage where can I buy the lower balljoint for a 2004 tundra? Do you have a link where you purchased yours
I got mine from Rock Auto, look up the 555 part # on google then go to Rock Auto and put it in the search box or go to ball joints and find the #. Sometimes they are under Moog or AC Delco heading. Other than 555s I'd go OEM from a Toyota dealer.
@@funjunkiegarage thank you. Had another question. My mechanic checked my front suspension already. He couldn't find anything wrong with it. The issue I'm having when traveling at a high speed or low speed. Once I take my foot off the gas pedal. The front suspension starts to rumble and shake. That's without applying the brake. Truck keep wearing out the tires from the outside and inside. Had the checked out by my mechanic. Couldn't find anything wrong. Told him it might be the lower ball joints. He checked them. He said they are fine. But im still not convinced. Truck has brand new tires. It has been balanced and aligned. Any idea what might be wrong?
Wow, I don't know what it could be that isn't obvious to your mechanic.
Check the driver side front CV axle where it goes into the differential for up/down play. That bearing goes bad and can cause the axle to wobble.
Check all the front control arm bushings upper and lower for play. Check the steering rack for excessive end play and check the rack bushings for wear, it's common on these for the right side bushing to deteriorate.
I'll think on it some more but that's all I got off the top of my head.
Are the tundra lower ball joints bigger than the 3rd gen 4runner ones? Are they interchangeable?
They have different part numbers.
But from what I've read they are interchangeable. Don't know if it requires any modifications.
What size are the lower ball joint bolts
The bolt head is a 17mm.
The thread is m10x1.25
where did you purchase the TRI-FIVE ball joints?
Rock Auto has them.
That's where I got mine.
Thanks for watching.
@@funjunkiegarage thx for the reply....I have a 01 Tundra 2wheel drive and the closest I am finding on RockAuto with 3 fives is the Beck/Arnley. This should be if not OEM parts..at least this is what I have read on different sites. Thx!
You often have to look at the pics or google a 555 part # then look it up.
I had selected 555 (at the time advertised as such) and they came in a moog box to my house.
Why does the ass end of my 4runner wobble on tight turns? Track bar, bushings?
Worn bushings can cause it to feel sloppy. Usually over bumps at higher speeds.
Is it at slow speeds?
Is it only when turning tight?
May be your differential.
@@funjunkiegarage happens during somewhat slow speeds on turns. I think the diff is ok. I change the fluid regularly and it always looks normal.
I'd inspect all the rear bushings.
As well as the frame mounts.
New bushings aren't terribly difficult to install.
@@funjunkiegarage Thanks, I don't know much about frame mounts, but I've done bushings before.
Frame mounts are common rust areas on the 4runners.
Do you know if these are the same as a 1st gen (96) Tacoma 4x4?
Great videos. Thanks
Same style and procedure, not sure if it's the same size exactly. Thanks for watching.
thank you much
You're welcome
واو
How much are these 555 if you dont mind me asking?
They range in price from $90.00 to $160.00 each. I shop around and check for the part # at rock auto and parts geek and others. I avoid ebay.
I paid $110.00 each for the ones I intalled here.
@@funjunkiegarage $110 each? wow... that's more than OEM.
At my local Toyota dealership they were 156.00 each for OEM. I realize there are cheaper dealerships.
@@funjunkiegarage if you order them as a kit from some dealers, they go for a low as $90/each.
That's good information. Thanks for sharing.
I replaced my gen 1 tundra with Moog parts, they were fine but I had just gotten the truck and wanted to cover all the known failure points.
10k KM later, my steering wheel shakes like hell and the steering jerks wildly over bumps. I checked like you did in the video, they were so shot its not even funny. the movement in the video does not hold a candle to how fucked mine were, to all my early 2000s yota owners.
STAY AWAY FROM MOOG!
Wow! I'm glad you didn't have a failure while driving.
I also had a moog that didn't last 10k miles.
These 555 were still in good shape at 30k miles when the truck was totaled.
I definitely use OEM on LBJs from now on.
I second the stay away from moog.
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage I should also add that after I replaced the balljoints, I noticed that there was still a lot of play in the steering wheel, turns out that my busted balljoints somehow caused the L bracket holding the powersteering rack to the frame had a massive crack on the weld, causing the whole rack to shift whenever I was steering!
Truck is doing fine now with 310k KM and towing my racecar to the track every weekend!
Wow, glad you got it all fixed without incident.
Good to hear it's up and working again.
Thanks for the update and thanks for watching.
I appreciate your support.
280k miles on a 2001 tundra with the original ball joints lol
That's awesome!
Are they still good?
I've heard stories of them lasting for a crazy long time.
Thanks for sharing.
Let me know when they need changed please.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
I appreciate it.
@@funjunkiegarage no knocking noise coming from the joints, no leaking grease no steering issues. Pretty sure they are still good. Got the truck off the original owner and he never had them done.
Wow! That's fantastic.
Be sure to keep an eye on them, if they fail at speed it can be pretty bad.
My current 2000 Tundra had 181,000 miles on the originals when I had a slight accident and had to replace all of the front suspension. I went with OEM Toyota everything. At 197,000 now.
Be sure to check those every oil change.
I appreciate it.
Thanks so much for the support.