The reason why you get the misalignment of the upper and lower cuts is due to that you use an live edge to center your stock when flipping. To fix that, first position the stock as you did in the beginning with the xy block, clamps and screws. The the second operation is to face the peace of the bloc you are going to use. Then this is the important one. Drill the screw holes and screw the stock down (At least 2 screws and screw holes.). You can now remove the clamps as the part is fixed to the board through the screws. Continue the cutting make sure in CAM to not hit the screws in the stock if they are sticking out a bit. Do this side completely done and cut it out. Now you have one part that is faced and has the features on one side. Now the magic. Flip your half ready part and screw them back in the same hole again. With this the position of the stock becomes absolute. Finally some times those screws in the beginning can is some cases be supplemented with dobbel sided tape if the forces are lower. But then you can not flip the stock easy. Final 2. With CNC you may spend more time making stock holding systems then actually making the first batch of products. Check in the @ContraptionCollection channel here on TH-cam he has some nice CNC trick's. Sorry for long message.
I ran into this same issue flipping parts with my CNC. Another option would be to set your 0 on something that doesn't move. For instance, the alignment fixture. If you are setting 0 off the edge of the stock, the stock needs to be precisely cut. When you flip it you will be off by the difference in stock dimensions. Setting 0 off the fixture would require you to roughly model it in Fusion. From from there you can set your WCS. A second option would be to set your 0 off of a milled feature. If your probe is small enough to get into the gap around the part you can set X and Y. Or if the machine can probe a bore that would work to. That would set the 0 to milled features and should get you a lot closer.
@@NainKaigo Yea. That is also an option. You could mill the live edge to get an true position when flipping but it could be less precise then two, three or mare screws.
@@247printing Dear 247printing: You did well. In the future, may i suggest to utilize the machine for accuracy. Simply make a couple holes from side 1 and zero/home in them from the other side, including a screw angle. NC deburings tip doesn't allow for chip evacuation, always run minimum 0,5mm tip offset, but rule of thumb is "more is better". Running it like you did requires a 2nd pass to make the surface real good
I've been using mine for a few months now. I think it's a pretty good machine. I own a 10 kW CNC mill so I have a little bit of experience. You can't overstate how nice the automatic tool changer is: it means you can leave it running in another room, it just goes and fills its vacuum box slowly with chips until it's done with the whole program. The automated tool setter is awesome as is the cute little service-free Z probe. I see one main point of potential improvement: the spindle speed could use being about 2x higher for small tools in aluminum, and the spindle speed stabilization is not great (it hunts a lot with load). Otherwise, maybe the Y axis should use something like Hiwin HGR rails instead of the LM style bearings, would make it a little stiffer? I need to do some real stiffness measurements. That said, it's quite precise when taking light cuts, it fits on a benchtop, and it's really well integrated. I bought one because this was the first "home" CNC mill that I felt I wouldn't get infuriated by - and so far, so good.
@@shadowunifer anyone can correct me if i am wrong but at my understanding LM bearings are the ones found on lineal rods and usually less stable/stiff than HGR (the square blocks) ,most precision machines have HGR lineal rails, while there are smaller version called MGN that are the ones you see on 3d printers.
It doesn't look like anyone has explained the default stock to leave values, so I'll do it. Generally you would use a roughing tool and a finishing tool or even just different feed rates to improve the surface finish on the pockets, hence the 0.5mm stock to leave, so that the next tool has something to remove.
@@saltwaterrook4638 i usually got taught a spring pass is a second pass with the same tool and settings to remove any material that was not removed by the first pass. This is due to bending of either the work piece or the tool, or both. Roughing vs. finishing passes on the other hand are used for quick material removal and good surface finish respectively.
Our Kennametal rep recommended 0.05mm stock to leave and it's been working great. Of course this depends on the expected surface roughness of your roughing step.
Hi, awesome to see that cnc milling is becoming avaiable for the hobbyists. As someone who is experienced using industrial cnc machines I have a couple tips for you. For what I can see you are probing on the side of the plate on both operations. You can do it on the first operation, but I would recommend to probe a feature that has been milled on the first operation to probe for the second operation. For example a troughhole. As for the chamfers I would recommend to give it a larger chamfer tip offset, this way you aren't milling with the very tip. The 0.05 offset you used it quite small. I recommend this because the higher the offset the higher the circumferential speed is. At the very tip the theoretical circumferential speed is 0. But I think you did quite well for a first attempt! Cheers!
the .5mm stock to leave is there because the most common practice is to rough out a part and then finish the part. or in other words remove most of the material leaving enough to be sure there is still material to take a delicate finish pass, leaving the final surface more accurate and looking better. if you click the 3 dots next to the stock to leave and click edit expression it will show where that value came from.
Very nice video. You will find you get much better results if you get shorter tools and stick them out less from the collet. In general, a stickout of 3xd or less is preferred. So a 3mm tool should stick out 9mm or less if feasible. This reduces chatter by a LOT and will significantly increase surface finish and even allow you to cut faster. If your part is only 3mm thick, then you don't need the extra stickout anyway and should choke up on the tool as far as possible, usually up to where the flutes start. This applies to side cutting tools like endmills and chamfer tools. Drills and spot drills can stick out much farther before you start to have issues.
Absolute joke of a price when you can buy a Tormach PCNC 440 for $1k more and it's a legit CNC Machining center that will cut steel and has a much larger work space in all axis.
@@maxz9787 : Sadly for me, not all hobbyists are created equal... so neither are hobbyist machines! Sooo, I have enjoyed the review on this mouth-watering little machine... now back to reality... where did I see that $170 machine? 🥴
I keep coming back to this machine, but since I only need CNC'd parts very infrequently, I can't really justify the price. Although... I said the same thing about 3D printers, but once I got one of them I never stopped designing and printing stuff for around the house. That thing earns its keep, maybe this will too. They are releasing a smaller and more basic machine called the Air, for under $2000. That might be a nice affordable option to get started with CNC.
You could have fixed all of those wcs issues by milling a clean 90deg edge on one side. Then starting your program off a known true milled surface. Never rely on saw cuts to give you references. You could have also shifted your wcs and probed off a bore or internal pocket. Lastly a mql or consistent air blast will help alot and reducing your tool stick out as you have a lot of vibration and chatter.
i would recommend printing or cutting a fan that fits over your spindle, that way it will blow the chips off when the spindle is spinning. also, when cnc'ing double sided parts, it is good practice to use dowl/location pins (similar to the ones that were supplied with the PCB making kit), the first operation usually drills a couple of holes through the stock into the baseboard, then you insert the pins, so when you flip the stock over its perfectly aligned.
I like what this company is about. Offer a fairly robust machine for a fairly decent price and create a community of users for education purposes. Looks like a great way to start your journey into CNC.
I´m milling for 17yrs and now i´m looking for something like a mini cnc mill for my home... Currently i´m working on a 33t beast with X 4000mm, Y 1350mm and Z 1650mm... And yes it is 5 axis too with Heideinhain iTNC 530 control... Imho the carvera is the best you can get, also for the money, only if you wanna do lots of laser work, forget the carvera and get something else. This is really something lots of us were waiting for! The atc is of course a highlight of this machine. If you compare this with the Nomad3 f.e. (which is unfair of course but there simple is no real other alternative yet) i always would go for the carvera. Having the possibility of milling brass and aluminium and a 4th axis is always very neat for every rc model builder. KR from Austria PS: Living in Europe, is there a 220V version, can´t find it on their page, so i guess i have to deal with the 110V plug right? Wouldn´t be an issue just need to know. EDIT: Found it in the discription "100-120VAC / 200-240VAC @ 50/60Hz" so all good 🙂
Servus and thanks for you reply, very interesting. Also one of the rare commenters with milling experience appreciating the Carvera. Cheers from Bavaria
@@247printing Es ist wirklich die einzige Maschine mit einem Werkzeugwechsler auf Linearführungen die ich in dem Preissegment finden konnte. Lässt sich sicher weiter ausbauen, sieht aber in der konfigurierten Version wie sie ausgeliefert wird so interessant aus das ich sie mir im Sommer bestellen werde. Einsatzbereich technischer Modellbau und Hobby. Die Pentamachines 5 Achs Pocket NC ist mir zu teuer, der Bearbeitungsbereich sehr limitiert, die Genauigkeit schlecht mit ca. 0,2mm... Lg nach Bayern 🙂
Consider using a locating dowel to flip parts. Use a hole or two in your part that goes into the bed below and use that to locate the flipped work piece.
This really is good value for the money with the tool changer and all the accessories. Much like my own CNC the user interface is too basic out of the box. I had to buy a pendant so I can move the toolhead around and then also a macro tool with some presets. learning the CAM processes is never ending because each project will have something new you want to try. Overall an excellent video showing your noob experiences in with CNC.
man, cnc machines built by professionals are soooo good, they basically pamper you with all the safey and instructions and customer support, they put the parameters in for you, you just choose the material from a list, it's awesome.... the only problem is, it's expensive. for a toy, it's expensive. it costs the same as a 5 year old used car. i CAN afford it, but it hurts knowing it's just a toy
Nice machine . You could do the champfers with double sided champfer tool (doppelentgrater) in one setup. With that tool you can go inside the holes and champfer the downside
I have one noob question: Any of this video is real time speed? If so, omg that’s an awesome machine! I just got some used CNC mini end mill that I’m about to wire to test it and so excited, now imagine how much you would be by having a carvera? Excellent choice for your video, lots of real life comments, honesty about pricing, and final thoughts that are actually meaningful! Thank you!
Thank you very much for making this review, love to finnaly have some base to decide on, for CNC machines, i cant wait for the prototyping of 3d printer parts in future videos ! The beauty is that with 3DP the mounting problem can be solved :) and i absolutely cant wait to see what you come up with !
A great video as always! I really like that they give you a variety of material to try out all the things like the PCB fabrication for the start. When it comes to this topic I‘m a noob too and I didn’t even know that you can even chamfer edges with such a machine ^^
Weirdest Porsche CarvEra I've ever seen!! But seriously, this looks like the equivalent of a Porsche for a hobbyist CNC. And I have to admit, I'm quite jealous (in a healthy way) of seeing people get these for free to review! Haha :) Looks like an awesome machine. There's so much functionality that this adds to projects, I think a machine like this needs to be in a workshop when you want to produce quality parts for small production runs of hobbyist machines and prototyping. Also a big plus that it uses USB-C.
Cnc is really cool, I used to work in cnc programming and manufacturing and since then I have dreamed of building or buying a small machine for my hobby room. This machine seems reasonable but unfortunately the price tag is too high for me to justify it for the family...
Rough surface on the aluminum is probably from using a wrong end mill. Looks like you were using a single flute (one cutting edge) end mill intended for plastics. A two or three flute will give a much nicer surface finish. Safe Z - how high up the tool moves between cuts - unless you're going over clamps and such, keep it as low as possible for faster machining. As long as it does not run into anything, Z0.1 is often plenty. Flip machining - working on two sides of the part - NEVER indicate (position) parts off of the original piece of material UNLESS it's a machined block. Instead, cut out a pocket for the part in the wasteboard, then super glue the part into said pocket once one side and the perimeter have been cut out. That will make sure that the part is put back in the exact spot where it was originally instead of relying on it being perfectly in the middle of the stock (original piece of material), being located perfectly against the guide, not moving when it's re-clamped, and so on. Acetone will easily remove the glue afterwards. This one is more of a personal choice, but I always cut the pocketed or more complex sides first. That way if something messes up I haven't wasted cutting whole other side, and it makes sure that all pockets, screw holes, and other features are where they should be relative to one another. Then just flip, champher the other side, and the part is ready.
Thanks! Most surprising :-) It's a "basement garage" (don't know if that term exists). It's a hillside house and this garage is on the basement level, which is open at one side.
I WANT IT Even though i am working at a Company that produces CNC Mills and Turning Machines. But those can cost up to half a million € and can weigh up to 15tonns.
For this to be a smashout 'home user'-level success, $2500 is about the upper cap. As of this morning, the base machine is a cool $6.2k USD. For that price, you could have an industrial ADM machine that can print synthetic materials that will rival aluminum, or even get in some entry-level SLS metal printers. I'm not seeing $6,200 of kit here.
Nice video,could you share the link of the v-core mods u mentioned.Maybe a video idea for u install the AWD mod with 48v and see how fast u can go on this machine,which would be interesting to see since the gantry has higher mass than a v0
I already got 2 genmitsu machines and some experience. Would love to review this machine too, but won't buy it with my own money for that - way too expensive!
I wonder if he ever show the cnc again after this vid. Making fixtures to mill the second side annoying and often times even the first side can be a challenge. Figure out feeds and speeds is often a chore. Making the CAM can be time consuming and you often have to tweak settings after the first milling attempt. But aluminum is superior in strength and stiffness compared to FDM printing in the end. You also can mill a FDM print to get better tolerances or save a print. I saved a print this week. Got the support distance wrong and couldn’t remove it. Used my CNC to cut out the support melted to the part.
Already used it again ;-) Feeds and speeds at default worked nicely already - why change? And yeah sure: It's more effort to CNC mill in comparison to 3D printing, but as you know: You get stronger parts out of it using aluminium designs and CAM programs. Staying at 3 axis it's not that hard or time consuming.
With the influencer accessories package and after tax it's no longer 5000$ but over 8000$ in Germany. I can have PCBway make quite a lot of parts for _that_ kinda money. Plus, I don't need an extra room as a workshop...
It boggles my mind this is so expensive. I bought a Langmuir MR-1 for $7000. Sure, I had to assemble it myself, but it is a much larger machine with way more power.
how thick can you engrave on metal? or aluminum with this machine? i seen the pcnc and that was engraving pretty nice. i suppose its better than this machine?
0:31 is it just me or does the after have worse chatter? and one other question, how is this for beginners? it costs 5200 dollarinos with the discount. surely there are better options for beginners?
For half of that price I got a CNC6040 with a water cooled 2,2Kw spindle and all the goodies. Tool change and zeroing is not a subject for diy projects. This machine looks like a marketing narrative. I don't know who is going to buy it.
I'd love to have a carvera for making led and motor drivers and psu parts for old tvs and consoles. I'm a 45 year old disabled dude who can never afford one. Pcbway nickel and dime me with shipping in my part of Canada.
You're right, but this is for onesies and twosies, not a production machine - a minimally viable production CNC like Haas VF1 runs around $40K, needs 3 phase power and is the size of 2 sedans - what ordinary person is buying that besides someone who is making a living from machining???
nice looking nice desing on this cnc but 5000? oh man with 5000$ you can make your own cnc 2x2 meters with the best stepers and best cnc spindle motor to cut aluminum like butter
Good to hear for sure. What makes the Carvera so attractive to me as someone who is even more of a noob than you, though, IS that it's a tool changer. I'll keep dreaming though, and maybe hope to win the lottery?😄 I am looking forward to seeing what else you do with it, however!
@reprinted3D they could make a mini pcb one and cut cost by 75 percent. I rarely design pcbs larger than 150x150mm. That moron great Scott has one and never uses it.
I am really curious about the depth of the pockets that can be achieved w/o mist cooling or coolant. I would make so many projects with that machineee geeez THE MOLDS I would make hahaha
They should make a tiny one with an a4 sized build plate for pcbs only. Pcbway sponsor so many people that they gouge us little guys. If they stopped sponsoring everyone with 1k and over subs they could pass some savings on. I submitted a 2 sided gerber a few months ago and they wanted over 120usd shipped so i tried jlpcb and it was 7 bucks and i had the boards in a week. Pcbway want a fortune for the least amount of options of any board house ive tried.
Although it's a very nice and well thought out machine, the price is simply too high for what it is. For that amount of money and a little bit of diy effort one can assemble a vastly more serious mill, with a 2.2kw spindle, rapidchange atc, cast iron frame, bigger workspace, etc... Around 3k would be a much more resonable price for a machine of this calber.
While this machine is very cool. For 6k I could buy an actual full size CNC machine with more than twice the cutting area. Where are they getting this asking price from?? This should be half the cost, minimum.
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The reason why you get the misalignment of the upper and lower cuts is due to that you use an live edge to center your stock when flipping. To fix that, first position the stock as you did in the beginning with the xy block, clamps and screws. The the second operation is to face the peace of the bloc you are going to use. Then this is the important one. Drill the screw holes and screw the stock down (At least 2 screws and screw holes.). You can now remove the clamps as the part is fixed to the board through the screws. Continue the cutting make sure in CAM to not hit the screws in the stock if they are sticking out a bit. Do this side completely done and cut it out. Now you have one part that is faced and has the features on one side. Now the magic. Flip your half ready part and screw them back in the same hole again. With this the position of the stock becomes absolute. Finally some times those screws in the beginning can is some cases be supplemented with dobbel sided tape if the forces are lower. But then you can not flip the stock easy. Final 2. With CNC you may spend more time making stock holding systems then actually making the first batch of products. Check in the @ContraptionCollection channel here on TH-cam he has some nice CNC trick's. Sorry for long message.
Thanks a lot for the long message!
I ran into this same issue flipping parts with my CNC. Another option would be to set your 0 on something that doesn't move. For instance, the alignment fixture. If you are setting 0 off the edge of the stock, the stock needs to be precisely cut. When you flip it you will be off by the difference in stock dimensions. Setting 0 off the fixture would require you to roughly model it in Fusion. From from there you can set your WCS.
A second option would be to set your 0 off of a milled feature. If your probe is small enough to get into the gap around the part you can set X and Y. Or if the machine can probe a bore that would work to. That would set the 0 to milled features and should get you a lot closer.
@@NainKaigo Yea. That is also an option. You could mill the live edge to get an true position when flipping but it could be less precise then two, three or mare screws.
What? What live edge? This isn't wood bro and we're on an international stage...
@@247printing Dear 247printing: You did well. In the future, may i suggest to utilize the machine for accuracy. Simply make a couple holes from side 1 and zero/home in them from the other side, including a screw angle. NC deburings tip doesn't allow for chip evacuation, always run minimum 0,5mm tip offset, but rule of thumb is "more is better". Running it like you did requires a 2nd pass to make the surface real good
I've been using mine for a few months now. I think it's a pretty good machine. I own a 10 kW CNC mill so I have a little bit of experience.
You can't overstate how nice the automatic tool changer is: it means you can leave it running in another room, it just goes and fills its vacuum box slowly with chips until it's done with the whole program. The automated tool setter is awesome as is the cute little service-free Z probe.
I see one main point of potential improvement: the spindle speed could use being about 2x higher for small tools in aluminum, and the spindle speed stabilization is not great (it hunts a lot with load). Otherwise, maybe the Y axis should use something like Hiwin HGR rails instead of the LM style bearings, would make it a little stiffer? I need to do some real stiffness measurements.
That said, it's quite precise when taking light cuts, it fits on a benchtop, and it's really well integrated. I bought one because this was the first "home" CNC mill that I felt I wouldn't get infuriated by - and so far, so good.
Thanks for sharing your experiences and possible improvements on the Carvera - very interesting!
Could you elaborate on the rails? I was considering building one and any information like that would be a welcome addition.
Yep I should have ordered the Carvera instead of the onefinity
@@shadowunifer anyone can correct me if i am wrong but at my understanding LM bearings are the ones found on lineal rods and usually less stable/stiff than HGR (the square blocks) ,most precision machines have HGR lineal rails, while there are smaller version called MGN that are the ones you see on 3d printers.
U dont own a 10k W mill
It doesn't look like anyone has explained the default stock to leave values, so I'll do it. Generally you would use a roughing tool and a finishing tool or even just different feed rates to improve the surface finish on the pockets, hence the 0.5mm stock to leave, so that the next tool has something to remove.
Spring pass. Came here to explain it but you got it.
@@saltwaterrook4638 i usually got taught a spring pass is a second pass with the same tool and settings to remove any material that was not removed by the first pass. This is due to bending of either the work piece or the tool, or both. Roughing vs. finishing passes on the other hand are used for quick material removal and good surface finish respectively.
And don’t do side milling and face milling for finishing at the same time if you want a very good finish.
Our Kennametal rep recommended 0.05mm stock to leave and it's been working great. Of course this depends on the expected surface roughness of your roughing step.
Hi, awesome to see that cnc milling is becoming avaiable for the hobbyists. As someone who is experienced using industrial cnc machines I have a couple tips for you. For what I can see you are probing on the side of the plate on both operations. You can do it on the first operation, but I would recommend to probe a feature that has been milled on the first operation to probe for the second operation. For example a troughhole. As for the chamfers I would recommend to give it a larger chamfer tip offset, this way you aren't milling with the very tip. The 0.05 offset you used it quite small. I recommend this because the higher the offset the higher the circumferential speed is. At the very tip the theoretical circumferential speed is 0. But I think you did quite well for a first attempt! Cheers!
Hey there, thanks a lot for your helpful comment - great to see that there are still nice people out there!
the .5mm stock to leave is there because the most common practice is to rough out a part and then finish the part. or in other words remove most of the material leaving enough to be sure there is still material to take a delicate finish pass, leaving the final surface more accurate and looking better. if you click the 3 dots next to the stock to leave and click edit expression it will show where that value came from.
Very nice video.
You will find you get much better results if you get shorter tools and stick them out less from the collet. In general, a stickout of 3xd or less is preferred. So a 3mm tool should stick out 9mm or less if feasible. This reduces chatter by a LOT and will significantly increase surface finish and even allow you to cut faster. If your part is only 3mm thick, then you don't need the extra stickout anyway and should choke up on the tool as far as possible, usually up to where the flutes start.
This applies to side cutting tools like endmills and chamfer tools. Drills and spot drills can stick out much farther before you start to have issues.
Been milling professionally for years. You're gonna love this!
Absolute joke of a price when you can buy a Tormach PCNC 440 for $1k more and it's a legit CNC Machining center that will cut steel and has a much larger work space in all axis.
The all singing & dancing version of that (with the tool changer) is north of $15k though.
i think you’re missing the point, this is something more for hobbyists over being in an actual machine shop
tool changer is for lazy people.
@@Toasty-du3fl yeah bc 5000$ is a realistic price for hobbist machines
@@maxz9787 : Sadly for me, not all hobbyists are created equal... so neither are hobbyist machines!
Sooo, I have enjoyed the review on this mouth-watering little machine... now back to reality... where did I see that $170 machine? 🥴
I love this maker rennaissance that is going on, for the price it is out of the range of most hobbyists, but it is getting more and more attainable.
I keep coming back to this machine, but since I only need CNC'd parts very infrequently, I can't really justify the price. Although... I said the same thing about 3D printers, but once I got one of them I never stopped designing and printing stuff for around the house. That thing earns its keep, maybe this will too.
They are releasing a smaller and more basic machine called the Air, for under $2000. That might be a nice affordable option to get started with CNC.
You could have fixed all of those wcs issues by milling a clean 90deg edge on one side. Then starting your program off a known true milled surface. Never rely on saw cuts to give you references. You could have also shifted your wcs and probed off a bore or internal pocket. Lastly a mql or consistent air blast will help alot and reducing your tool stick out as you have a lot of vibration and chatter.
Hahahaha "let me express it into 3d printing language" - love it! 🎉
i would recommend printing or cutting a fan that fits over your spindle, that way it will blow the chips off when the spindle is spinning. also, when cnc'ing double sided parts, it is good practice to use dowl/location pins (similar to the ones that were supplied with the PCB making kit), the first operation usually drills a couple of holes through the stock into the baseboard, then you insert the pins, so when you flip the stock over its perfectly aligned.
I like what this company is about. Offer a fairly robust machine for a fairly decent price and create a community of users for education purposes. Looks like a great way to start your journey into CNC.
I´m milling for 17yrs and now i´m looking for something like a mini cnc mill for my home... Currently i´m working on a 33t beast with X 4000mm, Y 1350mm and Z 1650mm... And yes it is 5 axis too with Heideinhain iTNC 530 control... Imho the carvera is the best you can get, also for the money, only if you wanna do lots of laser work, forget the carvera and get something else. This is really something lots of us were waiting for! The atc is of course a highlight of this machine. If you compare this with the Nomad3 f.e. (which is unfair of course but there simple is no real other alternative yet) i always would go for the carvera. Having the possibility of milling brass and aluminium and a 4th axis is always very neat for every rc model builder.
KR from Austria
PS: Living in Europe, is there a 220V version, can´t find it on their page, so i guess i have to deal with the 110V plug right? Wouldn´t be an issue just need to know.
EDIT:
Found it in the discription "100-120VAC / 200-240VAC @ 50/60Hz" so all good 🙂
Servus and thanks for you reply, very interesting. Also one of the rare commenters with milling experience appreciating the Carvera.
Cheers from Bavaria
@@247printing Es ist wirklich die einzige Maschine mit einem Werkzeugwechsler auf Linearführungen die ich in dem Preissegment finden konnte. Lässt sich sicher weiter ausbauen, sieht aber in der konfigurierten Version wie sie ausgeliefert wird so interessant aus das ich sie mir im Sommer bestellen werde. Einsatzbereich technischer Modellbau und Hobby. Die Pentamachines 5 Achs Pocket NC ist mir zu teuer, der Bearbeitungsbereich sehr limitiert, die Genauigkeit schlecht mit ca. 0,2mm...
Lg nach Bayern 🙂
Looking forward to seeing CNC parts on a future V0. Gotta take the record back from an ender 3 now...
Consider using a locating dowel to flip parts. Use a hole or two in your part that goes into the bed below and use that to locate the flipped work piece.
This really is good value for the money with the tool changer and all the accessories. Much like my own CNC the user interface is too basic out of the box. I had to buy a pendant so I can move the toolhead around and then also a macro tool with some presets. learning the CAM processes is never ending because each project will have something new you want to try. Overall an excellent video showing your noob experiences in with CNC.
Hey Lee, thanks a lot! Also for these insights. Need to get to my next CNC project soon!
You often leave 0.5 by default to measure the pocket and compensate for a full depth pocket finish.
Interesting review! Editing is outstanding 😮
The leave stock feature is so you can set stock left for a finish pass with a different tool
This machine really sounds good! Thanks for the review
Thanks for watching and commenting 😘
I just bought one of these about a week ago and I’m just itching for it to be delivered
did you receive your machine? how do you find it, specially for aluminum cnc?
man, cnc machines built by professionals are soooo good, they basically pamper you with all the safey and instructions and customer support, they put the parameters in for you, you just choose the material from a list, it's awesome.... the only problem is, it's expensive. for a toy, it's expensive. it costs the same as a 5 year old used car. i CAN afford it, but it hurts knowing it's just a toy
Nice machine . You could do the champfers with double sided champfer tool (doppelentgrater) in one setup. With that tool you can go inside the holes and champfer the downside
For rpm don’t forget to calculate form cutting speed and get some tools with less stick out
I have one noob question:
Any of this video is real time speed? If so, omg that’s an awesome machine!
I just got some used CNC mini end mill that I’m about to wire to test it and so excited, now imagine how much you would be by having a carvera?
Excellent choice for your video, lots of real life comments, honesty about pricing, and final thoughts that are actually meaningful!
Thank you!
Thanks a lot! Some clips are fast forwarded and some are real-time.
You could judge this by listening to the sound while milling the alu parts.
Thank you very much for making this review, love to finnaly have some base to decide on, for CNC machines, i cant wait for the prototyping of 3d printer parts in future videos !
The beauty is that with 3DP the mounting problem can be solved :) and i absolutely cant wait to see what you come up with !
Thanks YOU for watching!
A great video as always! I really like that they give you a variety of material to try out all the things like the PCB fabrication for the start.
When it comes to this topic I‘m a noob too and I didn’t even know that you can even chamfer edges with such a machine ^^
Thanks! Absolutely - it even comes with a tool for chamfers :-)
The "Stock to leave" default 0.5m on the pocket operation is because it expects the user to program a finishing pass
Thanks, got it, but I hope it'll never be 0.5m :-)
Weirdest Porsche CarvEra I've ever seen!! But seriously, this looks like the equivalent of a Porsche for a hobbyist CNC. And I have to admit, I'm quite jealous (in a healthy way) of seeing people get these for free to review! Haha :) Looks like an awesome machine. There's so much functionality that this adds to projects, I think a machine like this needs to be in a workshop when you want to produce quality parts for small production runs of hobbyist machines and prototyping. Also a big plus that it uses USB-C.
I really had a problem with the V in CarVera when recording - 9 out of 10 wrong :-D
Hmmm yeah yeah, those "free" review units... 😅
This thing looks awesome!
same case for me. it's really encouraging !
Cnc is really cool, I used to work in cnc programming and manufacturing and since then I have dreamed of building or buying a small machine for my hobby room.
This machine seems reasonable but unfortunately the price tag is too high for me to justify it for the family...
Rough surface on the aluminum is probably from using a wrong end mill. Looks like you were using a single flute (one cutting edge) end mill intended for plastics. A two or three flute will give a much nicer surface finish.
Safe Z - how high up the tool moves between cuts - unless you're going over clamps and such, keep it as low as possible for faster machining. As long as it does not run into anything, Z0.1 is often plenty.
Flip machining - working on two sides of the part - NEVER indicate (position) parts off of the original piece of material UNLESS it's a machined block. Instead, cut out a pocket for the part in the wasteboard, then super glue the part into said pocket once one side and the perimeter have been cut out. That will make sure that the part is put back in the exact spot where it was originally instead of relying on it being perfectly in the middle of the stock (original piece of material), being located perfectly against the guide, not moving when it's re-clamped, and so on. Acetone will easily remove the glue afterwards.
This one is more of a personal choice, but I always cut the pocketed or more complex sides first. That way if something messes up I haven't wasted cutting whole other side, and it makes sure that all pockets, screw holes, and other features are where they should be relative to one another. Then just flip, champher the other side, and the part is ready.
now we need 247milling!
Great video! But most surprising part - a basement in your garage?!
Thanks! Most surprising :-) It's a "basement garage" (don't know if that term exists). It's a hillside house and this garage is on the basement level, which is open at one side.
I
WANT
IT
Even though i am working at a Company that produces CNC Mills and Turning Machines. But those can cost up to half a million € and can weigh up to 15tonns.
For this to be a smashout 'home user'-level success, $2500 is about the upper cap. As of this morning, the base machine is a cool $6.2k USD. For that price, you could have an industrial ADM machine that can print synthetic materials that will rival aluminum, or even get in some entry-level SLS metal printers. I'm not seeing $6,200 of kit here.
That is amazing! I wish they would ship to Brazil :(
Meu sonho uma dessa também hahahaha
They are Europe mostly. I'm on the east coast in Canada and it's prohibitively expensive
Nice video,could you share the link of the v-core mods u mentioned.Maybe a video idea for u install the AWD mod with 48v and see how fast u can go on this machine,which would be interesting to see since the gantry has higher mass than a v0
The price is great, especially having a tool changer
Wow this looks amazing
@3:57 funny, the filter looks identical to the ones for my Xiaomi Vaccum Robot.
Absolutely, same on mine. Makes sense to use of the shelf parts!
that filter for thee vacuum is the same filter found in most xiaomi robot vacuums
Looks like a nice small machine. How did they connect the Z axis to the X axis since there is this cover in between?
du kommst doch aus baden Württemberg. wie bist denn jetzt zufrieden? würde das Ding mal anschauen wollen
I already got 2 genmitsu machines and some experience. Would love to review this machine too, but won't buy it with my own money for that - way too expensive!
Every time you say aluminum I chuckle a little
Because it’s AlumInium ;-)
I wonder if he ever show the cnc again after this vid. Making fixtures to mill the second side annoying and often times even the first side can be a challenge.
Figure out feeds and speeds is often a chore. Making the CAM can be time consuming and you often have to tweak settings after the first milling attempt.
But aluminum is superior in strength and stiffness compared to FDM printing in the end. You also can mill a FDM print to get better tolerances or save a print.
I saved a print this week. Got the support distance wrong and couldn’t remove it. Used my CNC to cut out the support melted to the part.
Already used it again ;-) Feeds and speeds at default worked nicely already - why change?
And yeah sure: It's more effort to CNC mill in comparison to 3D printing, but as you know:
You get stronger parts out of it using aluminium designs and CAM programs.
Staying at 3 axis it's not that hard or time consuming.
I have purchased one but have had many issues with bits breaking after an hour or so. What advice would you have?
This is an amazing machine, but it is too expensive. Great video.
Are any CNC videos coming up?
What belt tensioning blocks are those you mentioned on the RatRig?
Is this machine similar to a 3d printer in that after you hit print it is hands off? I am so new to CNC I can't even say I'm new to CNC.
That's what's the video is about I guess - I recommend watching it :-)
Nice vid, great machine (and company). *LOVE* my Carvera (car *v* era … You’re not Naomi “R’s Are Hard” Wu 😂 )
Thanks! I don't get the Naomi comparison though...
With the influencer accessories package and after tax it's no longer 5000$ but over 8000$ in Germany.
I can have PCBway make quite a lot of parts for _that_ kinda money. Plus, I don't need an extra room as a workshop...
It boggles my mind this is so expensive. I bought a Langmuir MR-1 for $7000. Sure, I had to assemble it myself, but it is a much larger machine with way more power.
For that kind of money i would go with PrintNC or Milo 1.5
Could even give an Ender to EDM conversion a go.
Great video, thanks!
Good review, I definitely want one, but sadly I can't afford it. :p
very cool👍
I wish you tested the tolerances etc
there are converts for stl to nc.
What is maximum height of aluminium part for cnc miling?
You need to do a video on the rat rig
how thick can you engrave on metal? or aluminum with this machine? i seen the pcnc and that was engraving pretty nice. i suppose its better than this machine?
oida, sicher das du noch nie was gefräßt hast ?🙂 will auch so ein Trumm.
Vor ca. 20 Jahren mal, mit einer Manuellen, ja :-) Hol dir das Trumm! Ein Traum...
Where can we download this simple designed part data.
Jpeg l want
0:31 is it just me or does the after have worse chatter?
and one other question, how is this for beginners? it costs 5200 dollarinos with the discount. surely there are better options for beginners?
wow this is fully loaded ,this isnt going to be cheap
for 2500 you can get a queen ant pro cnc 1500mm X 1500mm
For half of that price I got a CNC6040 with a water cooled 2,2Kw spindle and all the goodies. Tool change and zeroing is not a subject for diy projects.
This machine looks like a marketing narrative. I don't know who is going to buy it.
I'd love to have a carvera for making led and motor drivers and psu parts for old tvs and consoles. I'm a 45 year old disabled dude who can never afford one. Pcbway nickel and dime me with shipping in my part of Canada.
nice one!
How long did it take to machine one of your brackets?
If I remember correctly it’s around 1h45m net machining time
How long did it take you to mill that ABS part ?
It was rather quick, I think it was less than one hour net milling (without preparation and post processing).
$5000. Still too expensive.
They are releasing another model on kickstarter in a couple days. It is 2199 retail but they are offering discounts for early backers
200 W spindle does not a high-end CNC make...
When considering that it is a small form factor desktop machine. I think it does
I get your point, but does a 2kW spindle make high end?
well it would be at least nice do drive a 6mm endmill at proper speeds @@247printing
Considering you can get a Langmuir MR-1 for around the same cost, and it has a 2.5 kW spindle, I'd say yes.
You're right, but this is for onesies and twosies, not a production machine - a minimally viable production CNC like Haas VF1 runs around $40K, needs 3 phase power and is the size of 2 sedans - what ordinary person is buying that besides someone who is making a living from machining???
nice looking nice desing on this cnc but 5000? oh man with 5000$ you can make your own cnc 2x2 meters with the best stepers and best cnc spindle motor to cut aluminum like butter
The real question we are here for is: When 1500mm/s cnc mill?
I really want one of these so much, but the price will forever keep it out of reach for me.😥 I'm sue it' s worth the money, though.
Hey Peter, thanks for watching and commenting. It's definitely a lot of money, but hint: A way cheaper version is incoming (no toolchanger though).
Good to hear for sure. What makes the Carvera so attractive to me as someone who is even more of a noob than you, though, IS that it's a tool changer. I'll keep dreaming though, and maybe hope to win the lottery?😄
I am looking forward to seeing what else you do with it, however!
@reprinted3D they could make a mini pcb one and cut cost by 75 percent. I rarely design pcbs larger than 150x150mm. That moron great Scott has one and never uses it.
Also here from Stranger Parts factory tour 😂
Wow niceeee awesome
0:52 In theory, theory and practice are the same thing, in practice they don’t.
does the air assist of the carvera work well ?
Works well, I used it since the last try of the Alu part
I am really curious about the depth of the pockets that can be achieved w/o mist cooling or coolant. I would make so many projects with that machineee geeez THE MOLDS I would make hahaha
Now you should rename your channel to just 24/7 😂
Yup, "printing" is rather limiting, right?
Exactly why I rebranded from 3DPrintViking to MakerViking a few years back. :)
@@MakerViking wait maybe should give my name a remake then aswell, any ideas ? xD
@@3DWolfEngineering In your case, maybe MakerWolf or MakerWolf Engineering, or maybe just Wolf Engineering?
@@MakerViking thanks, will think about that ... only issue people know me as 3DPrinterWolf
Did the it come with the wasp
Nah, it’s an optional extra for 1000 bucks
It sounds too good to be true because its six thousand dollars,
it better be at that price
And it’s already way too slow. When will we do 15000mm/s ?
Probably when we have 1000000 rpm spindle speed
They should make a tiny one with an a4 sized build plate for pcbs only. Pcbway sponsor so many people that they gouge us little guys. If they stopped sponsoring everyone with 1k and over subs they could pass some savings on. I submitted a 2 sided gerber a few months ago and they wanted over 120usd shipped so i tried jlpcb and it was 7 bucks and i had the boards in a week. Pcbway want a fortune for the least amount of options of any board house ive tried.
Can it handle steel?
To a certain degree yes - there is a video on Makera TH-cam slowly milling steel
Although it's a very nice and well thought out machine, the price is simply too high for what it is. For that amount of money and a little bit of diy effort one can assemble a vastly more serious mill, with a 2.2kw spindle, rapidchange atc, cast iron frame, bigger workspace, etc... Around 3k would be a much more resonable price for a machine of this calber.
man I don´t need another tool ! 😅
Why not go for a Snapmaker?
It's really expensive for what it is. Limited stiffness, limited machining area
Grüsse aus NiederBayern xDD bist ja eh gleich um's Eck quasi
Ja Servus! Grüße zurück - woher genau?
@@247printing Deggendorf xD ursprünglich Passau.
Du bist Landshut die Gegend oder ? Am Bierkasten im Hintergrund bei 1:25 erkannt xDD
Sehr gut erkannt - Wittman Bier (Alkoholfrei) müsste das sein :-)
Deggendorf kenne ich gut, dort in der Nähe war ich auf dem Gymnasium!
Grüße!
what this printer cannot do?
3D printing 😅
0:06 roach on table
Hornet
While this machine is very cool. For 6k I could buy an actual full size CNC machine with more than twice the cutting area. Where are they getting this asking price from?? This should be half the cost, minimum.
Tutorials please