Great video thanks for doing all the research and homework can I get a list of the part numbers to all you did in this video shafts riffs slipper clutch what pinion to run with it, and did you lubricate the diffs to quiet the noise down and make it smoother or do they run them dry from factory fir a certain reason, thanks, I’m getting mine today but believe everything you just did is what I would do as well and thanks to you now I don’t have to do research I just need to do the upgrades, subscribed to your channel so I will follow and see how the progress and up grades went. 👌😎
Sorry for the late response. All part# are in the detail description. As for the diffs, it would be a whole long discussion. In my book, open diffs are just bad for bashers for 2 main reasons: reliability and power are poor. Since these diffs cannot hold oil, I put silly putty in it, don't even bother cleaning the old oil. I pack it down on the rear diff and a little in the front. If the front is too tight, the car won't turn as shape
hello thank you for this useful video. I watched because on my 144010 (rlaarlo 1/14) the diff cups wear out so so fast, it's cheese on a brushless setup. Do these diff cups from the 124008 last longer ? Thx I also just got the slipper clutch and installed it. I have 4 things to mention. The part that goes on the front side, when you close the diff housing, it squeezes the cup so it does not move. I had to untighten those screws of the diff housing for it to rotate correctly. Not great as you create a small gap for dirt to get in. The nut of the slipper also really needs to be as far as possible towards the cup otherwise it's too tight. Normally if you hold the 2 rear wheels and accelerate, the car should "cough" because it's slipping, it doesn't do it. I'm not sure this slipper really does anything. Last thing to mention is I had to sand off a part of the grub screw that goes in the cup as it was rubbing when rotating on the plastic upper deck separation which protects any contact with the battery. Hope this helps others.
Good info, I have to check them out when I have a chance. The diff cups still wear out faster than I like, but I do put more power on it. MJX doesn't have this problem running at similar speed. 55mph on Wltoys vs 50mph on MJX. If you have time, try quenching the diff cups. Too bad I can't tell you at what temp as we have no idea about the metal composition. I would burn it just barely red hot and quench it immediately in cold water. Maybe that would help.
Ball ends are a PITA! Do you have to change out the entire differential or just the cups on the front? The perfect fit of the slipper sounds sort of crunchy, don't you think? Is the diff on the 124008 the same as the diff in the 12428?
You can only replace the cups if the gears they are attached to allow it. The cups are the size of the 10428 or the 12402. All they did was change the part numbers, unless there is something different about them, and that's why I asked. @@customtoyrevolution
Hello, excuse me, I have a question to ask you... 🙂 I see that you have the WLToys 124007 and the 124008. I have the 124007... And I wanted to know if the edges of the 124008, which are located on each side of the chassis, where you can fit the body inside interior, could be adaptable to the 124007?
In return for reliability, the car will be heavier and more stress on the electronics; you won't gain anything in terms of performance. The only upside is the slipper clutch where you can adjust to a point where you can obtain optimal launch/acceleration according to the road surface and your driving style@@dj_big_l2516
@@customtoyrevolution Thanks for your response 🙂 I don't plan to increase the power, because for its weight the car is powerful enough, for my personal opinion. On the other hand, I intend to improve its reliability. I'm looking for better shock absorbers, I wanted to mount the ones from the RLaarlo AM X12.
Hello, please help me... is it possible to put on the 124008 the front CVDs in the back ?? I have the problem that the rear dogbones do not fit correctly and come out of the cup and devastate the cup of the rim, it is a problem that many have, I have only used it 4 times and I love it and I want to use it without that problem, Thank you and pending your answer.
There is some good information here. Do you have something published that indicates which cars can use the same replacement/upgrade parts as the WLtoys 124010? Thanks!
@@customtoyrevolutioncan I use cvd style shafts in the rear as well or do I need to go with larger dog bone axels and axel cup thing on wheel side. I ordered two 124008 differentials and 4 cvd shafts. Also ordered some 124017 differentials that are full metal to use the housings from because the 124008 diffs come with plastic housing.
Yes, you can use CVD at the rear. I don't like metal parts for wltoys, ALL are poorly made. I would stay away from metal parts with moving components. From my experience, the diff housing wear out very fast, faster than plastic ones. Worst, they are heavy
@@customtoyrevolutionI was referring to the differentials inner casing being made of plastic the part that holds the gears on the inside. I know the metal is a bit heavier but the plastic inner diff casing comes deformed from the screws being tightened. I realize the outer diff housing would be heavy as f and may have issues but shouldn't I at least do the inner casing with metal and grease the inner gears really well? Differential rides on bearings on the ends so wouldn't metal be better? Basically want to eliminate the plastic diff casing that came with 124008/124010 diffs and put the larger axel end cups into a full metal diff casing then put the upgraded diffs into plastic housing(until it breaks then I'll go metal). Goal is to not melt plastic doing oval laps as fast as possible for 3 batteries in a row in back yard.
Yes, the diff casing which is made with power aluminum wear out very fast causing those pins inside rock back and forth. What really helps is pack super heavy diff oil to slow the internal movement. I dont have any problem ever since. Bear in mind the effects. Typically , heavy weight oil at the rear, less heavy at front for bashing and speed run
i killed the spur on my 124008, so while i was waiting for a new one to come in, i ordered the slipper clutch, crazy fast rc reckons it fits. which are the best shock towers though? are the aftermarket metal ones for the old 124/144 models better than the new plastic shock towers on the 124008?
And does the body shell of 124008 adapt to 124007 and 124017? Obviously the locking post would have to be adapted for the body in the rear, as it has 2 pins in the new one and only one in the olds, but apart from that does the body adapt to the chassis? Do the body shells have the same width and length or would they have to be modified?
In theory, you can adjust the power distribution between front and rear and tailor to varies road conditions. But for most of us, mainly for preventing gear breakage and smoother start (save some rubbers)
Was this transplant a perfect fit? I should do it too. I don't want to add weight to my jumper, but i want to use metal links to stop them popping off which makes them take longer to change anyways
It's for you to decide the trade off of the added weight and extra cost. I personally would go for it and reduce weight somewhere else like using carbon fiber parts. I make a video of my light weight Street Basher of 124017, check it out. Even hex nuts are carbon fiber 👍
Hi, means 07 is better in terms of car controlling, right? Just choosing between 07 and 08 models. From other reviews i unterstood they are almost same by steering
@@customtoyrevolution do you mean that LC Racing L6134 sway bar doesn't fit? I can see chassis doesn't have the forward facing screws at the front to fasten it, but I was thinking it can somehow be fastened inside the new metal bumper
I am not sure, you will be cutting into the existing bumper mounting screws location. If use other location the sway bar might not move. I will have 2 different sets of sway bar coming next month, I'll take another look @@shadyhazza
@@customtoyrevolution cool. i notice the mounting screws for the metal bumper top and bottom actually go all the way thru and line up i've got some 35mm M2.5 bolts on order going to see if I can use 2 bolts with nuts instead of those 4 screws
I will then go with a transmission with a 44t metal crown adapted to the 124007 (but difficult to find the exact part on Ali). They generally provide a 27t pinion with the part and I don't know why (also don't know if the metal crown supplied is 44t like the original one).... is what the shaft supplied is? compatible with the original 19t sprocket or is it obligatory to fit the 27t sprocket.... for the moment I don't know. Otherwise, I will mount the slipper clutch as shown in your video (looking forward to getting feedback on how it works while driving). in any case, thank you for your feedback and thank you for your very informative video!!! Have a good day
The poor thing is that the diameter is still 4 mm and the screw is m3. The MJX CVDs from the 16 scale are much better, and the ball bearings are bigger. My ball bearings of the 124017 only last 2 months.
Budget car, my friend. Yes, that would be the weak point. I've also noticed the rear drive cups are wearing out, but that's to be expected from Wltoys. Like you said MJX is 1/16 and built for different purpose. As for bearings, they are all sucks, even sealed bearings from aftermarkets are horrible unless you paid top dollars. They just have too much play in them. FYI, as long as you clean and service your bearings, they should last.
You might want to loosen the slipper clutch up a little bit. From the looks of it in the video, it might be fully tightened, which won't protect the drivetrain as intended. To loosen it up and adjust it, grab the nut just after the drive cup with a pair of needle nose pliers, with all 4 wheels on a hard surface (ground, table, etc) and then pull the car in reverse while holding the nut stationary. That should loosen the slipper clutch. To tighten, just do the reverse. Watch a video on how to setup a slipper clutch and you'll get it set right.
I assume you meant the internal gears, as long as they hold up, I am ok, it's a budget RC car after all. If they fail, do what I do, fuse them and make it a lock diff, it's better for bashing too
Haha isn't that the latest model? My 124017 have gone through several pinion and spur but never broken another part on these cars and I do not touch asphalt
Well one reason it's bending axles are the flexible lower arms and flimsy pull rod.
Great video thanks for doing all the research and homework can I get a list of the part numbers to all you did in this video shafts riffs slipper clutch what pinion to run with it, and did you lubricate the diffs to quiet the noise down and make it smoother or do they run them dry from factory fir a certain reason, thanks, I’m getting mine today but believe everything you just did is what I would do as well and thanks to you now I don’t have to do research I just need to do the upgrades, subscribed to your channel so I will follow and see how the progress and up grades went. 👌😎
Sorry for the late response. All part# are in the detail description. As for the diffs, it would be a whole long discussion. In my book, open diffs are just bad for bashers for 2 main reasons: reliability and power are poor. Since these diffs cannot hold oil, I put silly putty in it, don't even bother cleaning the old oil. I pack it down on the rear diff and a little in the front. If the front is too tight, the car won't turn as shape
Great video. Where did you get the thicker upgraded axles? I have the same car but one is bent already and I want to upgrade.
I've a few sets but never got to selling them. Try ebay or aliexpress
Ola, você não engraxa os diferencias ?
hello thank you for this useful video. I watched because on my 144010 (rlaarlo 1/14) the diff cups wear out so so fast, it's cheese on a brushless setup. Do these diff cups from the 124008 last longer ? Thx I also just got the slipper clutch and installed it. I have 4 things to mention. The part that goes on the front side, when you close the diff housing, it squeezes the cup so it does not move. I had to untighten those screws of the diff housing for it to rotate correctly. Not great as you create a small gap for dirt to get in. The nut of the slipper also really needs to be as far as possible towards the cup otherwise it's too tight. Normally if you hold the 2 rear wheels and accelerate, the car should "cough" because it's slipping, it doesn't do it. I'm not sure this slipper really does anything. Last thing to mention is I had to sand off a part of the grub screw that goes in the cup as it was rubbing when rotating on the plastic upper deck separation which protects any contact with the battery. Hope this helps others.
Good info, I have to check them out when I have a chance. The diff cups still wear out faster than I like, but I do put more power on it. MJX doesn't have this problem running at similar speed. 55mph on Wltoys vs 50mph on MJX. If you have time, try quenching the diff cups. Too bad I can't tell you at what temp as we have no idea about the metal composition. I would burn it just barely red hot and quench it immediately in cold water. Maybe that would help.
Ball ends are a PITA! Do you have to change out the entire differential or just the cups on the front? The perfect fit of the slipper sounds sort of crunchy, don't you think? Is the diff on the 124008 the same as the diff in the 12428?
PITA? The diff sizes are the same, I would think you can simply replace the cups. The sound is normal for metal gears. Hope this help
You can only replace the cups if the gears they are attached to allow it. The cups are the size of the 10428 or the 12402. All they did was change the part numbers, unless there is something different about them, and that's why I asked. @@customtoyrevolution
@@kodak_jack I don't have those to compare
Hello, excuse me, I have a question to ask you... 🙂
I see that you have the WLToys 124007 and the 124008. I have the 124007... And I wanted to know if the edges of the 124008, which are located on each side of the chassis, where you can fit the body inside interior, could be adaptable to the 124007?
No parts of the chassis are compatible
@@customtoyrevolution ok, thank you very much 🙂
@@customtoyrevolutionCould you one day take this car for a test drive and show us if it works better with all that?
In return for reliability, the car will be heavier and more stress on the electronics; you won't gain anything in terms of performance. The only upside is the slipper clutch where you can adjust to a point where you can obtain optimal launch/acceleration according to the road surface and your driving style@@dj_big_l2516
@@customtoyrevolution Thanks for your response 🙂 I don't plan to increase the power, because for its weight the car is powerful enough, for my personal opinion. On the other hand, I intend to improve its reliability. I'm looking for better shock absorbers, I wanted to mount the ones from the RLaarlo AM X12.
Hello, please help me... is it possible to put on the 124008 the front CVDs in the back ?? I have the problem that the rear dogbones do not fit correctly and come out of the cup and devastate the cup of the rim, it is a problem that many have, I have only used it 4 times and I love it and I want to use it without that problem, Thank you and pending your answer.
Yes, you can
@@customtoyrevolution Mr. Custom... Thank you for attending, my only support in answering has been you, thank you
There is some good information here. Do you have something published that indicates which cars can use the same replacement/upgrade parts as the WLtoys 124010? Thanks!
No, others parts are either the same or incompatible
Are the swing arms the same on both cars. Basically just different chassis and larger axel on the 124008.
yes
@@customtoyrevolutioncan I use cvd style shafts in the rear as well or do I need to go with larger dog bone axels and axel cup thing on wheel side.
I ordered two 124008 differentials and 4 cvd shafts. Also ordered some 124017 differentials that are full metal to use the housings from because the 124008 diffs come with plastic housing.
Yes, you can use CVD at the rear. I don't like metal parts for wltoys, ALL are poorly made. I would stay away from metal parts with moving components. From my experience, the diff housing wear out very fast, faster than plastic ones. Worst, they are heavy
@@customtoyrevolutionI was referring to the differentials inner casing being made of plastic the part that holds the gears on the inside. I know the metal is a bit heavier but the plastic inner diff casing comes deformed from the screws being tightened. I realize the outer diff housing would be heavy as f and may have issues but shouldn't I at least do the inner casing with metal and grease the inner gears really well? Differential rides on bearings on the ends so wouldn't metal be better?
Basically want to eliminate the plastic diff casing that came with 124008/124010 diffs and put the larger axel end cups into a full metal diff casing then put the upgraded diffs into plastic housing(until it breaks then I'll go metal). Goal is to not melt plastic doing oval laps as fast as possible for 3 batteries in a row in back yard.
Yes, the diff casing which is made with power aluminum wear out very fast causing those pins inside rock back and forth. What really helps is pack super heavy diff oil to slow the internal movement. I dont have any problem ever since. Bear in mind the effects. Typically , heavy weight oil at the rear, less heavy at front for bashing and speed run
i killed the spur on my 124008, so while i was waiting for a new one to come in, i ordered the slipper clutch, crazy fast rc reckons it fits.
which are the best shock towers though? are the aftermarket metal ones for the old 124/144 models better than the new plastic shock towers on the 124008?
(the slipper clutch I ordered comes with a pinion, so i guess its the same spacing on the new motor mount, even tho its a different tooth pitch)
Did the slipper clutch fit the 124008?
@@playboiflyer they claim it does, but I have to wait for it to arrive to test it myself
Not by itself, you will also need a 19T 0.7M Pinion
Slipper clutch is 0.7M while 124008 uses 0.6M Spur. I'd hope your seller knows what he's doing and send you the correct pinion
Nice upgrades
Thanks 👍
je confirme vraiment beaucoup plus solide ! merci pour l astuce
You're welcome
And does the body shell of 124008 adapt to 124007 and 124017? Obviously the locking post would have to be adapted for the body in the rear, as it has 2 pins in the new one and only one in the olds, but apart from that does the body adapt to the chassis? Do the body shells have the same width and length or would they have to be modified?
Not compatible at all. It would require modification
What different effect using slipper clutch between spurstqndard?
In theory, you can adjust the power distribution between front and rear and tailor to varies road conditions. But for most of us, mainly for preventing gear breakage and smoother start (save some rubbers)
Which is better rlaarlo am12 or 124008?
Tell me your expectation and then I could help
@@customtoyrevolution ihave rlaarlo amx12 but ihave problem in wheel wobble
If it's due to bent axles, 124008 will be a whole lot better. If you are talking about stock condition, both are the same@@loybots4624
@@customtoyrevolution can i use 124008 axle for amx12?
@@loybots4624yes, same as everything in this video, I forgot to mention a new set of wheel nuts also needed
Does the slipper clutch work in the 124008?
Not by itself, you will also need a 19T 0.7M Pinion. Watch this th-cam.com/video/1mNARpL_QPA/w-d-xo.html
Fair enough, thanks
124007 -12 scale sliper cluch?
yes
Was this transplant a perfect fit? I should do it too.
I don't want to add weight to my jumper, but i want to use metal links to stop them popping off which makes them take longer to change anyways
It's for you to decide the trade off of the added weight and extra cost. I personally would go for it and reduce weight somewhere else like using carbon fiber parts. I make a video of my light weight Street Basher of 124017, check it out. Even hex nuts are carbon fiber 👍
Hi! Is it not better to buy a complete 124008? Thank you for the video!
Depends, but in most cases, yes. Just remember the metal chassis versions have much better steering
Hi, means 07 is better in terms of car controlling, right?
Just choosing between 07 and 08 models. From other reviews i unterstood they are almost same by steering
It's been a few months since this video, what are your impressions of the slipper clutch, do you recommend it?. Great Video BTW
I haven't run it yet as I am waiting for the original to fail first. I do know the default spring rate is set too strong as if it's locked
Wow very nice,thank for the idea..
Have you tried to run it?no modifications happened?all fit
Have not run in this set up since I have both cars. Yes, all fit. My 124017 is light weight high performance car and 124008 is just a basher
Those chunkier axels are the 124008 axels? And the diffs are the 124008 diffs?
yes, part# in the description
Do they sell upgraded oil filled diffs for the 124008?
Thanks for your video! 👌
So all it takes is instaling the 124008 stronger parts in the 124017? Are they totally compatible? :)
Yes they are but expensive buying all the components
Does the anti rollbar still fit on 124019 with 124008 drive shaft?
Good question. Unfortunately, 124008 does not support anti rollbar at all, I need to add this comment to my initial review
Thank you
@@customtoyrevolution do you mean that LC Racing L6134 sway bar doesn't fit? I can see chassis doesn't have the forward facing screws at the front to fasten it, but I was thinking it can somehow be fastened inside the new metal bumper
I am not sure, you will be cutting into the existing bumper mounting screws location. If use other location the sway bar might not move. I will have 2 different sets of sway bar coming next month, I'll take another look @@shadyhazza
@@customtoyrevolution cool. i notice the mounting screws for the metal bumper top and bottom actually go all the way thru and line up
i've got some 35mm M2.5 bolts on order going to see if I can use 2 bolts with nuts instead of those 4 screws
Parts 2721 of wl124008 compatible wl124007 ?
Thanks return
No, not directly. You will have to change bearings and pinion at the least
I will then go with a transmission with a 44t metal crown adapted to the 124007 (but difficult to find the exact part on Ali). They generally provide a 27t pinion with the part and I don't know why (also don't know if the metal crown supplied is 44t like the original one).... is what the shaft supplied is? compatible with the original 19t sprocket or is it obligatory to fit the 27t sprocket.... for the moment I don't know.
Otherwise, I will mount the slipper clutch as shown in your video (looking forward to getting feedback on how it works while driving). in any case, thank you for your feedback and thank you for your very informative video!!! Have a good day
Merci pour cette vidéo
You're welcome
Un français 🙂
The poor thing is that the diameter is still 4 mm and the screw is m3. The MJX CVDs from the 16 scale are much better, and the ball bearings are bigger. My ball bearings of the 124017 only last 2 months.
Budget car, my friend. Yes, that would be the weak point. I've also noticed the rear drive cups are wearing out, but that's to be expected from Wltoys. Like you said MJX is 1/16 and built for different purpose. As for bearings, they are all sucks, even sealed bearings from aftermarkets are horrible unless you paid top dollars. They just have too much play in them. FYI, as long as you clean and service your bearings, they should last.
where can i buy the heavy duty ones?
The only source I know is Aliexpress. I am thinking of putting a kit together or sell parts individually on eBay
You might want to loosen the slipper clutch up a little bit. From the looks of it in the video, it might be fully tightened, which won't protect the drivetrain as intended.
To loosen it up and adjust it, grab the nut just after the drive cup with a pair of needle nose pliers, with all 4 wheels on a hard surface (ground, table, etc) and then pull the car in reverse while holding the nut stationary. That should loosen the slipper clutch. To tighten, just do the reverse.
Watch a video on how to setup a slipper clutch and you'll get it set right.
Thanks. I already know how, just haven't have a chance to test it
@@customtoyrevolutionHe really didn't believe that you know what you're doing lol
@@TheSphonglefaceit's ok and it's a good comment as I didn't really talk about the slipper. Someone else could benefit from his suggestion
So thicker ones fit but they make it with thinner ones of course
In order to make the bigger ones fit you need to change the diff cups and wheel hubs.
So the diff cups fit the older diffs if you don't want to change the whole diff... I have upgraded to sealed metal diff cases
excelente
The problem here is the 124008 diff gears are made from cheese.
I assume you meant the internal gears, as long as they hold up, I am ok, it's a budget RC car after all. If they fail, do what I do, fuse them and make it a lock diff, it's better for bashing too
@@customtoyrevolution nope ring gear and pinion.
Haha isn't that the latest model?
My 124017 have gone through several pinion and spur but never broken another part on these cars and I do not touch asphalt
@TheSphongleface It's a completely different series and design for different audience. Just happen to share some parts
Oof, I have 30 spare axles already lol
me too