PREDATOR 212 BUILD, MISTAKES WERE MADE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- The Predator 212 started going back together with a cam, billet parts, and port work.
But I made a big mistake and it is going to cost some time waiting for parts. Hey, it happens to everyone.
Plugging the holes and putting a pump port in your Predator
• Plugging your Predator...
Porting a Predator and discussion on the difference between the Hemi and non-Hemi
• PORTING YOUR PREDATOR ...
Making a top pan for your fuel pump and cool stickers
• MAKING A FUEL PUMP PAN...
Your honest about it good job
Where do you get those small oil bottles?
I been looking for a top plate exactly like the one you made all the top plates I’ve seen will not fit on my block because my cylinder gas tank is too big! Do u know where I can get a low profile top plate like this one!?
Ops I'm sorry you did put it in right the engine was the opposite way so it screw me up sorry about that
I need to make a trip to get a new torque wrench mine been dropped 100 time it old and we'll used
I have some Snap-On torque wrenches but I have been really happy with the quality of the ICON wrenches from Harbor Freight
@@WhatIsTheWheel snap to rich for my blood lol I've got a mix of tools mostly craftsman and sk I did buy set of ratchet wrenches from hf they come in pretty handy I'm working on some of my classic mini bike I need to invest in some smaller stuff to work on all engines most my tools are for tractor doizer repairs which is how make a living not much need for 1/4 stuff when a smallest bolts start out at 21mm lol what was the break in on the hf torque wrench 40 50 cycles?
Gotta get the right ugga duggas
Just so u know u put your connecting rod in wrong the dipper should have been facing down
It is facing the correct direction. It has a spoon shape on one side to force oil into the big end and it points in the direction of rotation
Excellent work. I think you did the right thing by double checking any concerns to make sure your engine is correct, it's the professional thing to do. I appreciate the honesty as well. The only person that hasn't made a mistake hasn't done anything, I think it's important to disclose the things that went wrong along with the things that went right too. I found recently that Wiseco makes a 70mm tapered piston/ring installer for these clone engines. I purchased one and highly recommend the tapered ring compressors. Those old style band types are a pain for sure. Enjoying the build, new subscriber.
Thanks, glad you are enjoying it. I am big on showing the mistakes, I am not going to hide my screwups(except for the talking ones, I have a bunch of blooper reel). The tapered compressor sounds great, I have had this one for decades. I was thinking about trying a minibike dragster next so I may need one.
I built a 224cc in 2019 with a Tilly block, big piston and the at-that-time "stroker" crank; reciprocating parts from Dover power in N.C. and the case from NRracing. Glad to see you take your time inserting the piston, a few you-tubers give it one big smack. I agree to put side cover gasket on dry and to trial fit the wrist pin in the rod, etc. Still using my 2 Craftsman beam-type torque wrenches from the 1970's on everything including my 650, oops; 750cc Royal Enfield (S&S kit); need to share my "R.E." FB page with you!
The Craftsman Torque wrench I got in 1984, died on me last year. The plastic handle failed.
You have a big bore kit in your RE(wow). I kind of considered that long term, but the bike runs really good like its setup and I have a Super Duke for going nuts. You should share the page.
I was surprised how many go kart hotrod parts makers are in NC, Dyno Cam(what I installed) is just an hour or two away.
@@WhatIsTheWheel waiting on the machine shop to finish with the cylinder, I bought 2 of the 743cc kits because they are scarce. Parts are WiseCo pistons, Advanced Liner Corp; both Mentor Ohio and a Cometic copper head gasket to match the bore made in Concord Ohio. Darton liners in one of the kits. S&S is only sold thru dealers in the U.S. Sorry to hijack your 212 thread..
In a multi cylinder application I can agree that maybe you should build an engine by a race specs and clearance and plastic age and all this shit but at the end of the day you're building a fucking lawn mower engine that's all your building a hopped up lawn mower engine and you can get away with a shit ton of stuff when you're building a lawn mower engine versus a multi cylinder race engine now if you were building a 670 V-Twin I would absolutely tell you to do it by the book
I'll bet the cross hatching in the cylinder created a cozy spot for the rust
Helps file the rings down during break in, helps hold oil too, rust would never be an issue unless it sat for a very long time outside/ in a humid environment.
Either get a better camera or turn your mic up
I thought you were gonna say you thought you may have put the rod in upside down. Now I have to rewind this and watch that part again. Thanks for the video!
You're welcome. I thought I might have put the rod and piston in 180 off, but that would be tough to do by mistake because of the dipper. I should have stepped back and double checked my information instead of just tearing it apart, but I was so sure I had screwed up.
Don't know if it makes any difference but I noticed that the rod is on backwards for the direction that the engine will turn
I am pretty sure it is the correct direction, I had double checked it with a scope through the oil filler after assembly because I was concerned I had accidently flipped the piston/rod assembly. I am pulling it apart to do a couple of things and I will check it again then.
What are you been smoking?
What were the exact torque wrenches you used, it wasn't in the description of your video. Thsnk you in advance