Thanks for the instructions! Just had this printed in Pa12 materal (Nylon 12). Still need to find PTFE sheets but so far feels pretty sturdy. As for maintanance in order to keep the gears working for the long term, do you find locking and releasing the lock knob after each movement helping? Or would you rely on the break pad more? Thanks
Sounds like yours will be pretty tough in nylon. I don't think it will matter much whether you use the lock knob or brake pad to immobilise the rack, it is all reasonably solid. The v1 lock knob was a different matter, as it pushed a bolt into the side of the rack.
I'm so excited to try making this! Some of the materials seem a little tricky to get ahold of in Canada - not sure where to get a 14x60x1mm PTFE sheet...but thank you so much! It's incredible how passionate and generous you are with all of this.
Sorry, Anthony. I have only just picked this up. I think the file was misnamed as M3 insert, when it should be M5 insert. If you can't find these files, please contact Luke via Cults 3D. In any event, the part is not essential to the working of the winders, it just stops the nut from coming out of its pocket, although it should be pretty firm in there.
The M6 threaded rod cuts its own thread in the plastic rack as it goes in, and it is good to lubricate it a bit as you drive it in. 1/4” is 6.35mm, so it is only a tiny bit bigger, and the thread is irrelevant . I reckon there is quite a bit of heat generated as the rod is driven in, so the plastic softens a little around it. But I will ask the designer if he thinks it is OK. As for the other nuts and bolts, I don’t think it is possible to use imperial alternatives as many of the M3 nuts are slid into tight fitting pockets.
@@oddplanetstudios6172 Not at the moment. They had one where I worked years ago. I will ask around. Someone said there are 3d printing services on Ebay that are reasonable. I have most of the metal hardware in my stash. What plastic type would you recommend for the best durability and least shrinkage ? Thanks for the reply .
@@marylewis3311 I have printed them in PLA, but Luke the designer has been doing them in PETg. I suspect PLA gives a crisper detail. PLA+ might be the ideal material. Are you in the UK?
thanks for the video it was very helpful!
Hi, Im getting a small printer that has building size of 100mm. Can you upload racks in smaller sizes that can be put together?
Thanks for the instructions! Just had this printed in Pa12 materal (Nylon 12). Still need to find PTFE sheets but so far feels pretty sturdy.
As for maintanance in order to keep the gears working for the long term, do you find locking and releasing the lock knob after each movement helping? Or would you rely on the break pad more?
Thanks
Sounds like yours will be pretty tough in nylon. I don't think it will matter much whether you use the lock knob or brake pad to immobilise the rack, it is all reasonably solid. The v1 lock knob was a different matter, as it pushed a bolt into the side of the rack.
I'm so excited to try making this! Some of the materials seem a little tricky to get ahold of in Canada - not sure where to get a 14x60x1mm PTFE sheet...but thank you so much! It's incredible how passionate and generous you are with all of this.
Hopefully you can find something on eBay. I buy it as a 100mm x 100mm x 1mm sheet and cut the piece to size.
at the 6:01 mark , im not seeing the file for this model to print. on the v002 zip folder.
Sorry, Anthony. I have only just picked this up. I think the file was misnamed as M3 insert, when it should be M5 insert. If you can't find these files, please contact Luke via Cults 3D. In any event, the part is not essential to the working of the winders, it just stops the nut from coming out of its pocket, although it should be pretty firm in there.
Any idea if the dumb American 1/4-20 rod/nuts/bolts will work in these instead of m6? I don’t imagine its a huge difference size wise.
The M6 threaded rod cuts its own thread in the plastic rack as it goes in, and it is good to lubricate it a bit as you drive it in. 1/4” is 6.35mm, so it is only a tiny bit bigger, and the thread is irrelevant . I reckon there is quite a bit of heat generated as the rod is driven in, so the plastic softens a little around it. But I will ask the designer if he thinks it is OK. As for the other nuts and bolts, I don’t think it is possible to use imperial alternatives as many of the M3 nuts are slid into tight fitting pockets.
Hi Eric. Luke reckons you should be OK if you fill up the tube with WD40 and take it slowly with the drill.
These look fantastic. Thanks for the assembly instructions. Do you know if they are available anywhere printed and ready to assemble as a kit ?
They are designed for you to print and assemble. Do you know someone with a 3D printer?
@@oddplanetstudios6172 Not at the moment. They had one where I worked years ago. I will ask around. Someone said there are 3d printing services on Ebay that are reasonable. I have most of the metal hardware in my stash. What plastic type would you recommend for the best durability and least shrinkage ? Thanks for the reply .
@@marylewis3311 I have printed them in PLA, but Luke the designer has been doing them in PETg. I suspect PLA gives a crisper detail. PLA+ might be the ideal material. Are you in the UK?