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I recommend going for the v2 winder, which has a herringbone rack and several other improvements. Print at 100% size, otherwise the bearings and bolts will not fit. You likely do not need very long racks, but if you need a long reach, use my rack clamp and a rod to extend.

That's a pity. If the 3D printer files are still available, you might be able to print off a replacement. Alternatively try gluing it back together. I think they were made in PLA.

Sounds like yours will be pretty tough in nylon. I don't think it will matter much whether you use the lock knob or brake pad to immobilise the rack, it is all reasonably solid. The v1 lock knob was a different matter, as it pushed a bolt into the side of the rack.

Thanks for your kind words. Do have a look at the video on the v2 winders, which have significant improvements.

I did notice that there is one available from Julian Clark Studios, based on 20/20 extrusions, so it is quite a chunky item.www.stopmotionshop.com/precision-winder-rig-v2-523-p.asp My best advice is to find a friend with a 3D printer...!

The M6 threaded rod cuts its own thread in the plastic rack as it goes in, and it is good to lubricate it a bit as you drive it in. 1/4” is 6.35mm, so it is only a tiny bit bigger, and the thread is irrelevant . I reckon there is quite a bit of heat generated as the rod is driven in, so the plastic softens a little around it. But I will ask the designer if he thinks it is OK. As for the other nuts and bolts, I don’t think it is possible to use imperial alternatives as many of the M3 nuts are slid into tight fitting pockets.

Hi Eric. Luke reckons you should be OK if you fill up the tube with WD40 and take it slowly with the drill.

Possibly if you are in the UK.

@@oddplanetstudios6172 I am in the uk

@@oddplanetstudios6172 so I am in the uk could you print me one and how much?

@@Xiuvxfnm OK. Can you contact me on Messenger? I am @oddplanetstudios on Facebook, which I think takes you through to Messenger.

@@oddplanetstudios6172 hi I just contacted you on messenger

I have done 2 more versions since that quick video. The compact rig seems to be working well, and is much more easily deployed on set, as well as being a simple slider if needed. Will post something soon. There is also stuff on my Instagram: odd_planet_stopmo

They are designed for you to print and assemble. Do you know someone with a 3D printer?

@@oddplanetstudios6172 Not at the moment. They had one where I worked years ago. I will ask around. Someone said there are 3d printing services on Ebay that are reasonable. I have most of the metal hardware in my stash. What plastic type would you recommend for the best durability and least shrinkage ? Thanks for the reply .

@@marylewis3311 I have printed them in PLA, but Luke the designer has been doing them in PETg. I suspect PLA gives a crisper detail. PLA+ might be the ideal material. Are you in the UK?

Hopefully you can find something on eBay. I buy it as a 100mm x 100mm x 1mm sheet and cut the piece to size.

Sorry, Anthony. I have only just picked this up. I think the file was misnamed as M3 insert, when it should be M5 insert. If you can't find these files, please contact Luke via Cults 3D. In any event, the part is not essential to the working of the winders, it just stops the nut from coming out of its pocket, although it should be pretty firm in there.

www.stopmotionshop.com/6mm-stainless-steel-ball-stem-306-p.asp they are called ball stems, where the ball is an integral part with the threaded rod. Alternatively you need to silver solder a ball onto the rod.

Hi Mark. Sorry, but I am not able to supply ready-made rigs. They are intended for DIY construction. I suggest you find someone locally who has a printer (the most basic FDM printer will do just fine, just so long as the printbed can handle the size of the rack). I bought my own 3D printer especially to make these winders, and have found lots of extra uses for it in stop motion set building. And the printer (Creality Ender 3 pro [but get the v2!] was around £200 to buy. A set of winders professionally made will set you back £100 to £200 alone! My printer is currently printing parts for my 4th motion control camera rig.... Good luck!

@@oddplanetstudios6172 I understand… I have looked into paying to get 3D printed but worked out expensive… could you print parts and I’ll assemble ? I’m from Liverpool so hopefully would only be 5 pound post

@@markkevin7245 message me. I am @OddPlanetStudios on FB.

Thanks. looks like you found it on MyMiniFactory. Do be aware that there is now a version 2, which has some improvements over v1.

Go for V2 as it has some improvements!

I'm sorry, but I am not making them for others. If you know someone who has a 3D printer, ask them to make one for you.

OK, so where does the problem seem to be?

@@oddplanetstudios6172 I think it’s the weight of the figure, it pulls down the terminal. Maybe I should get a bigger threaded rod. What type of filament did you use ?

@@chrisford3360 You should be able to hold a puppet of at least 300g. If the box starts to slide down the upright rack, then you need to tighten the screws that hold the brake against the rack just enough so you can still move it OK. I shall add another collar design to the upgrades that has a hole for some 3mm rod, which means you do not need to rely on the rod going into the end of the rack. I used PLA filament for all the winders, and this has proved to be just fine. Luke the designer has changed to PETG, which is a bit stronger and is also a good choice. But I still have quite a bit of green PLA!

Hi Chris. I have just uploaded two more collars to the MyMiniFactory page for the upgrades. These have holes for M3 and M4 rods, so you don't have to use the hole in the end of the rack. Hope this helps!

@OddPlanetStudios no the rack it’s self starts to bend near where the figure is, will a rod really make it more stable ? Also would you ship rigs if I payed you?

Very shortly. I am just testing the V2 for the designer, and then it's ready to go!

@@oddplanetstudios6172 Excellent. Thank you. I'll keep checking your instagram.

@@zebblair7879 Hi Zeb. The v2 of the winders is now available, and I have made a video of the assembly. Check it out!

@@oddplanetstudios6172 Thanks for following up. I'll check it out.

The boxes are approx 57mm square X 25mm deep. The rack is 300mm long, but you can make it longer with an extra piece if you wish.

The v2 winders are now available. Check out my new video on assembling them!

Hi. There is a new version of the winders, with a number of improvements. I shall be doing a video on this in a few weeks. It will also include some upgrades for the original design.

@@oddplanetstudios6172 Awesome! Definitely looking forward to it!

@@KirklandShunk The v2 of the winders is now available. Check out my new video on assembling them!

Thank you. It is definitely possible to make some nice windows with bits of balsa or plastic or foam. 3D printing just makes it easier to do a lot of them, but tends to lose the quirkiness.

I think the PVA is pretty much essential, but if you missed out the linseed oil it probably would not make much difference. I think it is there to make the pulp a bit more durable and smoother to work with. The PVA bonds the pulp to the substrate and adds flexibility. It is possible to make a Papier mache just using flour and water glue, but it is not very strong.

@@oddplanetstudios6172 ok thank you very much

@@oddplanetstudios6172 thank you a lot for your answer! I've found the PVA glue today! I wonder wether olive oil could work? I know nothing about linseed oil - rare and expensive here…

@@louischvs9395 Interesting, as olive oil is generally more expensive than linseed! If you can find artists' supplies for oil paints, they will have linseed oil. The difference is that linseed is a drying oil, whereas vegetable oils remain tacky. However, I am not sure this matters much with papier mache. I'll do a test and let you know, as I have a model on the go at the moment. I will be using sunflower oil rather than olive oil as it is cheaper and mentioned elsewhere as an alternative.

@@oddplanetstudios6172 thank you a lot!

Hi Louis. Unfortunately not. Several people have tried it, and the plastics used for 3D printing just won't take the tension needed for joints. For replacement faces you would need a resin printer rather than a filament one. I am however making a motion control rig using mostly 3D printed parts and this is going well. I have done a very short video showing some recent developments.

@@oddplanetstudios6172 thank you very much for your detailed answer!