Good to see the pros struggle with the same thingies as us amateur diy mechanics (gloves, noticing wrong tire direction when finished remounting wheels,...) 😅
I'm gonna watch this tomorrow with the bike-tech who's gonna build me a long-distance gravel bike. Your video eases my fears a lot. "Don't fear the arrow, fear the Indian." In bike-ese, I say "Spend more money on the bike-mechanic than on the bike."
Bike Farmer Bingo Card Idea! - Wheel of Pokey-ness (new one maybe?) - OPE! - Don't forget to lube your noodle - Somewhat clean rag - Lemony fresh - Good enough for who it is for - Woody Chairalson - I forgot to put on my gloves (helmet for ride videos) - Spoke protectors are important (dies on that hill, but doesn't use them himself) - This part is fine (ends up replacing it anyways)
Hey, i like how genuine and straight-forward you are. I would like to give more but this is all i can give right now. I hope you have a good weekend, take care :)
What I like doing to install new v-brake pads: - undo the springs so the brake arms are free - loosely install new pads - put brake cable noodle back in - as I pull on the brake lever, move the brake pads to the right location as they meet the rim - pulling brake lever helps keep them in place - hold the brake lever tight, then tighten the brake pads down. Hook the springs back up and adjust tension accordingly.
I think a cruel irony of spoke protectors is the folks who could use them most, who leave their bike on a rack outside for longer periods of time, experience the protector yellowing and going brittle the quickest!
A new spoke protector looks totally fine, they just look like trash after the UV gets to them. And let's all be real these are bikes for sale not personal project bikes. They need to be reliable or poor Mr. Bike farmer will hear about it later. Navigators are great fixed one up for my mom and it was a solid comfy bike she was happy with.
I been working on bike cars greasy shit since I was 10 years old,Im now 60 and have no cancer in my body at all,Ive never used gloves or any hand covering at all
Excellent result!- I once had a Navigator 100, rigid fork, no wheels. I put wheels with Kenda Quest motorcycle inspired tires on it. I sold it to a neighbor who really loved it. Both the neighbor and I are getting up in the years and the upright Holland Bike position of this bike helps us a lot.
29:16 Interesting hypothesis. I've heard the opposite: Setting the pad as high as possible (without touching the tire ofc). The logic being that the arm rotates, doesn't translate. So as the pad wears down, it migrates down on the rim.
Yeah I wouldn't set them that low....pretty much the center of the braking surface. So hopefully you have almost 2mm on top and a couple more below. Don't grease the pad bolt either...light oil like T-9 used sparingly is better. You really don't want the pad to come loose especially the front and end up in the spokes one day. That one day could be the day you hit them hard ...it's also why you don't want to start them low. Unless you have a old U brake with the pivots above the rim.
The first thing I ever used to toe brake pads was an old wide rubber band, tied to a loose noose. I've never seen a reason to look for something better! Also, saying "loose noose" makes me chuckle, for some reason.
Damn it! This idea is so good! I was thinking in my head for a while to build some kind of "device" to put over the break pads that doesn't fall off, so you don't need three hands to toe them. Now I feel like an idiot. Thank you for making my life just a little bit easier! May you live long and prosper!
Navigators are great bikes. Even if you store it in a garage and don’t ride it for a decade it will come back and ride like new with just a little maintenance. Never had a navigator give me problems at the shop.
Love the videos. One point of clarification on brake pad "toe-in" -- toe the pads with the front of the pad touching last rather than how you attempted to do it. Also, a business card thickness, or at most, 2 business cards it all it takes to help set toe placed on the front side of the brake pad.
Hi BikeFarmer I have a Trek 820 Aluminum (Picked up from FB MarketPlace) and another Trek 820 RST steel frame. One is aluminum frame and handlebar shifting that I really like. I want to take front fork with suspension from RST steel frame bike and put it on the Aluminum. Is this something that is doable or am I wasting my time and ruining 2 good bikes ? Thanks!
I use a rubber band to set toe. It won't obstruct view, or fall out, and compresses to the right thickness. I have refurbished one of those old Navigators and they are perfectly good bikes for cruising around town, or the neighborhood, and would make a great campus bike.
It helps to put a little more air in the tubes before re-installing them. Just enough to give them shape. It reduces the chance of pinching the tube with the tire or tire lever when fitting the tire on. Love the videos! Keep'em coming 🥳
I wish I lived in your state. I would buy all of my bikes there. The effort you put into what you do is amazing. At 71, with health issues, I couldn’t ride most of the Treks you’re refurbishing. These days, I need to find a good women’s bike with a low step-through and a comfy saddle.
@@BirdieSueA I recently completed a 36 volt, 500 watt ebike conversion of a 15" step-thru frame mountain bike for my s.o. The whole project came in around $350.
In my experience, towing in the pads is only necessary when the brakes are loud and, usually, the better solution is different pads (not just new, but also different). I'm a fan of the Avid 20R pads for most non-road rim brakes. Had a dual-20" recumbent that I put non-symmetric Jagwire pads on, and they sang like a violin. Fought it for over an hour, including taking steel wool to the rims, and nothing worked. Swapped for Avid 20R pads and instantly worked.
I just bought back my early 2000’s Trek 820. I kept it inside and clean. I felt sorry for the abuse the old 820 has suffered, but hopefully I can bring it back to life.
Big up from Norway! Love the videos... Been working through many of your older ones (like this one....) at the moment and you've inpsired me and my 9 year old son to start tuning old bikes. We have a small request... Any chance of a close up when you adjust the spokes on wheels...? How do we know whether we tighten or loosen a spoke just by looking at which way the rim bulges? Keep up the great work... From wannabe Norwegian bike farmers... sykkelbønder!
What a neat video! Liked the workman like approach to this bike refurbishment job. Turned out great. Bike reminds me of my Specialized Crossroads similarly equipped and around the same vintage. Doesn’t have a crank set chain guard though and can’t seem to find one anywhere. Other than that it’s a great ride- wondering what kind of psi you’re running. Most of all I enjoyed watching and learning from the beginning to the end of such a project, unhurried. And the calming music fit perfectly. Nice thing too is that there weren’t any customers “interrupting” you so you could stay focused.
Not a question - a distantly related comment. Saw my first gravel bike race today, (sea otter classic on the west coast and first year for gravel there ),. I wandered into the race course area far outside the event itself on my 35 year old schwinn mtb. I knew there was scheduled activity but figured most of the action was over for the day that late in the afternoon. Rode to just below a hilltop and a small group came charging down the road after a short but steep climb that usually sends me putt-putting along for awhile. Then another and another and another spread out over about twenty mins. Humbling but I'm old so that's my excuse. I was the lone spectator off to the side cheering them on miles in the middle of nowhere. They probably thought it was weird or even spooky to see some old guy out there on an old bike and watching them, LOL. Surreal but I won't forget it. Another good one here. Cheers. 👍
Enjoyed today’s video and commentary. I learn something new on each video and sometimes it’s about bike maintenance. Not going to ask you about those comfortable looking old clogs. I’m Googling it. 😂
The cables stretch very little. Brake housing compresses as the spiral contacts it self. Index housing seats into the ferrals. Especially plastic ferrals but I still like the plastic ones since they generally don't become one with the metal they are stuck into. Just never use the short ones. Never stick a metal ferral into the plastic seat on a set of STI levers either. You can get alot of the mush out of the brake housing by squeezing the brake lever firmly ( not too hard though)and following the housing with your fingers wrapped around it and thumb pressing against the housing and then sliding along the cable keeping the thumb inside the radius of the cuurves . Then slap the housing against the frame with the lever still pulled a few times..you will most likely want to re adjust the cables. Shimano's SLR brake housing is the best standard brake housing by far and worth the extra cost. File the ends flat after cutting to length. If you use a grinding wheel you will need to poke the melted liner with a pointy spoke or a fine awl. This will always make for a good feeling brake. Cable Magic is pretty good so is Shimano's cable grease(less is better). Neither of these soften the liner. Can't really say if Tri Flow does since I never used it. But some greases do and some don't.
Those were great bikes, indeed. I have to admit, I did kind of like the luggage rack.. I have a similar bike as well and install some mudguards.. Makes such an improvement when commuting in wet weather
Promo link suggestions - The electric screwdriver and the screw pliers you like. They're probably mostly the same from company to company but you should get a couple of nickles if I buy them. 😊
Please add a link to the engineer screw pliers. I have tried to Google it and have had poor luck. Yours appear to be a slip joint type. A lot of them are box joint and I would like to get what you have. Thank you, Dave.
Suggestion for rusty bolt heads: Testor's metallic silver hobby paint applied with a cue tip. Eliminates that ugly look of rusty bolts, especially those that clamp your handlebar. Those are the ones you immediately see when you look down from your seated position. And since you are selling the bikes and have a reputation to uphold, you tell your customer what you did and why, just so they don't think you are trying to mask a problem.
When your dork disk turns yellow, you can always just paint it a cool color... Come to think of it, a red dork disk would look pretty cool on my mountain bike...
Coming back to bikes after my second 20 year break. Had to buy a bike workshop stand to revitalize my early 90's hardframe mountain bike. Also bought an electric folder just to get me back into it, nice as I can ride to the pub and put it in the back of an uber for the journey home.
Nothing last forever, and your liner is gonna get toasted one way or another. I say tri flow is less destructive then calcium build up or rust. If you need tri flow then your housing is probably already on the fritz.
@@xmateinc agreed that if it needs Triflow then likely the housing needs replacing anyway. That's why I only use it on cables that are in poor shape. I am just wondering whether it will be a bad idea to use it on cables and housings that are in good shape as preventative maintenance?
@@gideonvaneeden2681 I bet one little drop can’t hurt. Some people use too much not realizing that one drop is usually all it takes because it creeps. I personally use Kroil at the shop.
u can even see the cable housing coats are not standatd and and upgraded, becuz they are the nosed ones, which shimano only has in its XTR Parts lineup. But u can get the from Jagwire in even Quality. I think Jagwire is kinda XTR level shimano wire performance. But thats just my Opinion. but if u put those nosed wirehousing caps on a 90s shifting wire , its the ultimate best shifting performance ever.. from what i can tell, i usally overshift cuz its so ez and smooth...
I couldn't recall ever needing a spoke protector till the day I wish I had one; I made an ebike, with bafang bbs02(500w) and some old bike parts; bought an all alluminum frame from facebook market place(Rockport MOTIV; same model as featured on Berm Peak Express, but all blue and chrome instead), threw it together with some rims I got off an old norco bike someone threw out(sun cracked tires and all; much respect to IRC Tire, still using 1 of the 2 tires till now)... when I bought the frame it came with forks(replaced them with period correct Manitou x-vert T series, had to go for the motorcycle aesthetic:P; originals were over the top 2inch diameter forks that fit the ?an image? but they were really unstable,they were poorly cobbled together aluminum bits with thin steel), handle bars, and pedals; thing had seen better days, probably sat in as shed or in weather with mild protection; bearings were shot, and most of it was seized and so off to the impact gun I went(long as the frame survived, the mid drive doesn't use the threads)..... new breaks lines,slightly better suspension,etc, a bit turd polishing and all was good; I had a half decent lite weight ebike that tore up the road, it went great till one day as I as on my back home the chain decided to do the dreaded thing of jumping behind the gear and proceeded to tear up the spokes..... I wasn't going too fast so I stopped right away, and probably made the best of a bad situation but still spokes were broken and that's why when I learned 2 things; 1) that rims were double walled and 2) the spoke protector would of come in handy!(original owner didn't have one:( )
I love the video man. But those rims are close to dead. The groove on the braking surface is long gone and the curve is huge. I would just mention that to the future owner and maybe offer a rim replacement in a service plan.
Serious cyclist here. My hybrid bike has a spoke protector on it and I'm keeping it there. I wouldn't put one on my road or TT bike but it's fine on the hybrid bike imo.
Bent a rear hanger 200 km into a 400km ride and wrecked the rear wheel and derailleur 100 km later because I was too "cool" to have a spoke protector. $600 to fix and I'm less cool now.
i think rocking a spoke protector makes it look like you don't wrench on your own bike. being self sufficient and knowing how to fix basic mechanical issues is a big part of cycling culture. the same reason bike farmer has viewers is probably the same reason there's a stigma surrounding the "dork disc"
Man denkt ja immer, man schaut als einziger solche Kanäle, aber es ist immer schön zu sehen, daß es Gleichgesinnte gibt. Durch die Videos vom Bikefarmer inspiriert habe ich mit letzte Woche ein 90er Bianchi Pholcus , das aus der Serie mit der abgefahrenen Rahmengeometrie gekauft . ( Spinnenserie, lila Schwarz, 21 Gang LSX und Shimano biopace Ovalkettenblatt vorne. Gibt jetzt mein Retro Eisdielenrad 😊
@@matztertaler2777 Dieser Kanal ist international, hehe.^^ Ich schaue immer gerne bei Kleinanzeigen nach billigen Rädern die es wert sind gerettet zu werden, richte sie für so wenig Geld wie möglich wieder her und verkaufe sie dann wieder. Es macht Spaß, man lernt was und tut noch was Gutes für die Umwelt und andere Leute, die einfach nur ein brauchbares Rad suchen. Der "Stundenlohn" ist allerdings überschaubar...
Gave the BikeFarmer a shout out on JohnnyNurdOuts channel. He deals with95% ebike stuff but not a lot of non electric stuff. You may find his interesting for e bike stuff and his people may find BikeFarner interesting for general bike issues. Trying to help both
Was very fortunate to get introduced to golf at an early age by our uncle. My brother went on to be a PGA teaching pro. We both used to play from morning till dark, many times walking 45 or even 54 holes at the private club we both worked at in the late 1970's. Great game! Nice to hear you enjoy it and are getting back into the game! Nice job on that Navigator!
You keep passing over a lot of mechanical items like the SUSPENSION FORK. Does it work? How can it, it's probably some elastomeric ancient junk 25 years old! Did you test it? Does it need oil? Did you check the headsets and bearing cups? Do they need to be lubed? What about the bottom bracket ??? This stuff is important~
If Bob Ross had been a bicycle mechanic… perfect chill-out TV for anyone who has had more than a passing appreciation for mechanical purity of cycles.
Thanks hey!!
I can't explain why I'm watching these videos back to back but I'm liking them.
Good to see the pros struggle with the same thingies as us amateur diy mechanics (gloves, noticing wrong tire direction when finished remounting wheels,...) 😅
I'm gonna watch this tomorrow with the bike-tech who's gonna build me a long-distance gravel bike. Your video eases my fears a lot. "Don't fear the arrow, fear the Indian." In bike-ese, I say "Spend more money on the bike-mechanic than on the bike."
Wow!! Thanks hey!
Bike Farmer Bingo Card Idea!
- Wheel of Pokey-ness (new one maybe?)
- OPE!
- Don't forget to lube your noodle
- Somewhat clean rag
- Lemony fresh
- Good enough for who it is for
- Woody Chairalson
- I forgot to put on my gloves (helmet for ride videos)
- Spoke protectors are important (dies on that hill, but doesn't use them himself)
- This part is fine (ends up replacing it anyways)
- Way-more-better-hey!
- Per the ushé (?)
-slicker than snot on a doorknob
Love listening to the videos while I work on my own bikes!
Why did you take off the rear rack? It would seem like the buyer would want the rack. I know I would.
A lot of riders don't want racks, especially if it is being sold to a kid. It's just more appealing to the eyes without the rack.
Hey, i like how genuine and straight-forward you are. I would like to give more but this is all i can give right now. I hope you have a good weekend, take care :)
What I like doing to install new v-brake pads:
- undo the springs so the brake arms are free
- loosely install new pads
- put brake cable noodle back in
- as I pull on the brake lever, move the brake pads to the right location as they meet the rim - pulling brake lever helps keep them in place
- hold the brake lever tight, then tighten the brake pads down.
Hook the springs back up and adjust tension accordingly.
Do you toe in the pads ? Do you use a thin credit card inserted at the 25% length mark of the pad rear part of the bike?
@@connicrow9463 not usually, unless it squeals really bad. And even when I do that, sometimes the squeal still happens.
I think a cruel irony of spoke protectors is the folks who could use them most, who leave their bike on a rack outside for longer periods of time, experience the protector yellowing and going brittle the quickest!
A new spoke protector looks totally fine, they just look like trash after the UV gets to them. And let's all be real these are bikes for sale not personal project bikes. They need to be reliable or poor Mr. Bike farmer will hear about it later.
Navigators are great fixed one up for my mom and it was a solid comfy bike she was happy with.
“Stretching the cable”- I’m guessing the stretching pulls the slack out of cable in the housings as much as the cable getting longer.
I been working on bike cars greasy shit since I was 10 years old,Im now 60 and have no cancer in my body at all,Ive never used gloves or any hand covering at all
I played this video all the way through, twice!
(Because I fell asleep last night, the first time I tried watching it.)
So good
Excellent result!- I once had a Navigator 100, rigid fork, no wheels. I put wheels with Kenda Quest motorcycle inspired tires on it. I sold it to a neighbor who really loved it. Both the neighbor and I are getting up in the years and the upright Holland Bike position of this bike helps us a lot.
29:16 Interesting hypothesis. I've heard the opposite: Setting the pad as high as possible (without touching the tire ofc). The logic being that the arm rotates, doesn't translate. So as the pad wears down, it migrates down on the rim.
Yeah I wouldn't set them that low....pretty much the center of the braking surface. So hopefully you have almost 2mm on top and a couple more below. Don't grease the pad bolt either...light oil like T-9 used sparingly is better. You really don't want the pad to come loose especially the front and end up in the spokes one day. That one day could be the day you hit them hard ...it's also why you don't want to start them low. Unless you have a old U brake with the pivots above the rim.
I bought a couple used kids bike and build up a pretty sick BMX bike for my gfs son and the only extra parts I had to buy were brake cable and grips.
The first thing I ever used to toe brake pads was an old wide rubber band, tied to a loose noose. I've never seen a reason to look for something better! Also, saying "loose noose" makes me chuckle, for some reason.
Damn it! This idea is so good! I was thinking in my head for a while to build some kind of "device" to put over the break pads that doesn't fall off, so you don't need three hands to toe them. Now I feel like an idiot. Thank you for making my life just a little bit easier! May you live long and prosper!
what about taking a look at the dork fork
Thanks!
Thanks hey!!
The pliers is the Engineer PZ-56 screw extractor pliers. They are sold on Anazon.
My current commuter is a rescued freebie Navigator 600, super cool comfort bike!
Navigators are great bikes. Even if you store it in a garage and don’t ride it for a decade it will come back and ride like new with just a little maintenance. Never had a navigator give me problems at the shop.
Love the videos. One point of clarification on brake pad "toe-in" -- toe the pads with the front of the pad touching last rather than how you attempted to do it. Also, a business card thickness, or at most, 2 business cards it all it takes to help set toe placed on the front side of the brake pad.
In the video he attempted to shim the brake pad at the bike's rear side, which is correct
Good to see the pliers getting good use!
Hi BikeFarmer I have a Trek 820 Aluminum (Picked up from FB MarketPlace) and another Trek 820 RST steel frame. One is aluminum frame and handlebar shifting that I really like. I want to take front fork with suspension from RST steel frame bike and put it on the Aluminum. Is this something that is doable or am I wasting my time and ruining 2 good bikes ? Thanks!
Thanks
I use a rubber band to set toe. It won't obstruct view, or fall out, and compresses to the right thickness. I have refurbished one of those old Navigators and they are perfectly good bikes for cruising around town, or the neighborhood, and would make a great campus bike.
It helps to put a little more air in the tubes before re-installing them. Just enough to give them shape. It reduces the chance of pinching the tube with the tire or tire lever when fitting the tire on. Love the videos! Keep'em coming 🥳
I wish I lived in your state. I would buy all of my bikes there. The effort you put into what you do is amazing. At 71, with health issues, I couldn’t ride most of the Treks you’re refurbishing. These days, I need to find a good women’s bike with a low step-through and a comfy saddle.
An ebike might help keep you riding.
@@josepha8759 yes
@@BirdieSueA I recently completed a 36 volt, 500 watt ebike conversion of a 15" step-thru frame mountain bike for my s.o. The whole project came in around $350.
Thanks for the link to your wife’s book. Looking forward to reading.
In my experience, towing in the pads is only necessary when the brakes are loud and, usually, the better solution is different pads (not just new, but also different). I'm a fan of the Avid 20R pads for most non-road rim brakes. Had a dual-20" recumbent that I put non-symmetric Jagwire pads on, and they sang like a violin. Fought it for over an hour, including taking steel wool to the rims, and nothing worked. Swapped for Avid 20R pads and instantly worked.
I love your videos, keep it up!
I’m personally a fan of Pedro’s bike lust. Use it on all our full tune ups, and on my personal bikes.
I wish had your bike shop in my town !
I just bought back my early 2000’s Trek 820. I kept it inside and clean. I felt sorry for the abuse the old 820 has suffered, but hopefully I can bring it back to life.
The first 12 seconds looking promising already🤣🤣🤣 Thank you for all the content sir! You're an inspiration!
This bike is from that area where every one of them got the same decal work. My giant Sedona has the same almost. It's a damn good bike though.
I have Giant Black Blet Kendas 26 210
Big up from Norway! Love the videos... Been working through many of your older ones (like this one....) at the moment and you've inpsired me and my 9 year old son to start tuning old bikes. We have a small request... Any chance of a close up when you adjust the spokes on wheels...? How do we know whether we tighten or loosen a spoke just by looking at which way the rim bulges? Keep up the great work... From wannabe Norwegian bike farmers... sykkelbønder!
I learned not long ago that you can use aluminum foil on the light rust areas and bingo! It’s gone and nicely polished!!
Your videos are pure gold. Thank you!
What a neat video! Liked the workman like approach to this bike refurbishment job. Turned out great. Bike reminds me of my Specialized Crossroads similarly equipped and around the same vintage. Doesn’t have a crank set chain guard though and can’t seem to find one anywhere. Other than that it’s a great ride- wondering what kind of psi you’re running. Most of all I enjoyed watching and learning from the beginning to the end of such a project, unhurried. And the calming music fit perfectly. Nice thing too is that there weren’t any customers “interrupting” you so you could stay focused.
I really appreciate your videos. Are those 26 in or 29 in wheels?
Not a question - a distantly related comment. Saw my first gravel bike race today, (sea otter classic on the west coast and first year for gravel there ),. I wandered into the race course area far outside the event itself on my 35 year old schwinn mtb. I knew there was scheduled activity but figured most of the action was over for the day that late in the afternoon. Rode to just below a hilltop and a small group came charging down the road after a short but steep climb that usually sends me putt-putting along for awhile. Then another and another and another spread out over about twenty mins. Humbling but I'm old so that's my excuse. I was the lone spectator off to the side cheering them on miles in the middle of nowhere. They probably thought it was weird or even spooky to see some old guy out there on an old bike and watching them, LOL. Surreal but I won't forget it. Another good one here. Cheers. 👍
The rack and fenders would make it much more versatile as a commuter or for running errands.
@BikeFarmer Do your dork disks turn yellow and break too eventually? Or a better plastic?
Yes, I'm a dork because of all the reasons you stated.
You are. . .! You know who you are?
I have to say. . .
You are The Bob Ross of bike mechanics!
Very good. Thanks for your videos.
Enjoyed today’s video and commentary. I learn something new on each video and sometimes it’s about bike maintenance. Not going to ask you about those comfortable looking old clogs. I’m Googling it. 😂
The cables stretch very little. Brake housing compresses as the spiral contacts it self. Index housing seats into the ferrals. Especially plastic ferrals but I still like the plastic ones since they generally don't become one with the metal they are stuck into. Just never use the short ones. Never stick a metal ferral into the plastic seat on a set of STI levers either. You can get alot of the mush out of the brake housing by squeezing the brake lever firmly ( not too hard though)and following the housing with your fingers wrapped around it and thumb pressing against the housing and then sliding along the cable keeping the thumb inside the radius of the cuurves . Then slap the housing against the frame with the lever still pulled a few times..you will most likely want to re adjust the cables. Shimano's SLR brake housing is the best standard brake housing by far and worth the extra cost. File the ends flat after cutting to length. If you use a grinding wheel you will need to poke the melted liner with a pointy spoke or a fine awl. This will always make for a good feeling brake. Cable Magic is pretty good so is Shimano's cable grease(less is better). Neither of these soften the liner. Can't really say if Tri Flow does since I never used it. But some greases do and some don't.
Those were great bikes, indeed. I have to admit, I did kind of like the luggage rack.. I have a similar bike as well and install some mudguards.. Makes such an improvement when commuting in wet weather
Promo link suggestions - The electric screwdriver and the screw pliers you like. They're probably mostly the same from company to company but you should get a couple of nickles if I buy them. 😊
Hit play, fall asleep, helps the algorithm 39:25
Please add a link to the engineer screw pliers. I have tried to Google it and have had poor luck. Yours appear to be a slip joint type. A lot of them are box joint and I would like to get what you have. Thank you, Dave.
I would silicone spray the front fork chrome and also leave the luggage rack on.
Suggestion for rusty bolt heads: Testor's metallic silver hobby paint applied with a cue tip. Eliminates that ugly look of rusty bolts, especially those that clamp your handlebar. Those are the ones you immediately see when you look down from your seated position. And since you are selling the bikes and have a reputation to uphold, you tell your customer what you did and why, just so they don't think you are trying to mask a problem.
When your dork disk turns yellow, you can always just paint it a cool color... Come to think of it, a red dork disk would look pretty cool on my mountain bike...
not many recessionmobile parts on this one aside from gripshifts and brake levers, some 3x7 integrated levers would make it very solid
Coming back to bikes after my second 20 year break. Had to buy a bike workshop stand to revitalize my early 90's hardframe mountain bike. Also bought an electric folder just to get me back into it, nice as I can ride to the pub and put it in the back of an uber for the journey home.
You need a Park Tool sponsorship with no strings attached.
Awesome thank you!!!
Apparently the solvent in the Triflow will degrade the plastic liner in the shift cable housing. What are your thoughts/experiences on that?
Nothing last forever, and your liner is gonna get toasted one way or another. I say tri flow is less destructive then calcium build up or rust. If you need tri flow then your housing is probably already on the fritz.
@@xmateinc agreed that if it needs Triflow then likely the housing needs replacing anyway. That's why I only use it on cables that are in poor shape. I am just wondering whether it will be a bad idea to use it on cables and housings that are in good shape as preventative maintenance?
@@gideonvaneeden2681 I bet one little drop can’t hurt. Some people use too much not realizing that one drop is usually all it takes because it creeps. I personally use Kroil at the shop.
What do you do with thd Bike Racks
Great tune up!
Always enjoy these. Thanks.
u can even see the cable housing coats are not standatd and and upgraded, becuz they are the nosed ones, which shimano only has in its XTR Parts lineup. But u can get the from Jagwire in even Quality. I think Jagwire is kinda XTR level shimano wire performance. But thats just my Opinion. but if u put those nosed wirehousing caps on a 90s shifting wire , its the ultimate best shifting performance ever.. from what i can tell, i usally overshift cuz its so ez and smooth...
I couldn't recall ever needing a spoke protector till the day I wish I had one; I made an ebike, with bafang bbs02(500w) and some old bike parts; bought an all alluminum frame from facebook market place(Rockport MOTIV; same model as featured on Berm Peak Express, but all blue and chrome instead), threw it together with some rims I got off an old norco bike someone threw out(sun cracked tires and all; much respect to IRC Tire, still using 1 of the 2 tires till now)... when I bought the frame it came with forks(replaced them with period correct Manitou x-vert T series, had to go for the motorcycle aesthetic:P; originals were over the top 2inch diameter forks that fit the ?an image? but they were really unstable,they were poorly cobbled together aluminum bits with thin steel), handle bars, and pedals; thing had seen better days, probably sat in as shed or in weather with mild protection; bearings were shot, and most of it was seized and so off to the impact gun I went(long as the frame survived, the mid drive doesn't use the threads)..... new breaks lines,slightly better suspension,etc, a bit turd polishing and all was good; I had a half decent lite weight ebike that tore up the road, it went great till one day as I as on my back home the chain decided to do the dreaded thing of jumping behind the gear and proceeded to tear up the spokes..... I wasn't going too fast so I stopped right away, and probably made the best of a bad situation but still spokes were broken and that's why when I learned 2 things; 1) that rims were double walled and 2) the spoke protector would of come in handy!(original owner didn't have one:( )
Nice bike thanks for the tips and tricks. Keep up the great work and stay safe out there.
Thanks for sharing
I love the video man. But those rims are close to dead. The groove on the braking surface is long gone and the curve is huge. I would just mention that to the future owner and maybe offer a rim replacement in a service plan.
Serious cyclist here. My hybrid bike has a spoke protector on it and I'm keeping it there. I wouldn't put one on my road or TT bike but it's fine on the hybrid bike imo.
I just found you channel, I am enjoying them, thanks.
Dawn Powerwash needs to endorse you. Please keep ranting, Bob Ross of Biking videos😊
Thanks hey!
what size rubber gloves do you use?
One day we see online that bike farmer just lost it and went on a nonstop wheel protector rampage around town
Watching this while I take a break from giving nearly the same bike the “Bike Farmer Treatment”. BFT
Bent a rear hanger 200 km into a 400km ride and wrecked the rear wheel and derailleur 100 km later because I was too "cool" to have a spoke protector. $600 to fix and I'm less cool now.
just found your channel thanks
i think rocking a spoke protector makes it look like you don't wrench on your own bike. being self sufficient and knowing how to fix basic mechanical issues is a big part of cycling culture.
the same reason bike farmer has viewers is probably the same reason there's a stigma surrounding the "dork disc"
Greetings also from Germany, number two 😊
Jeder bringt einen Freund mit. Wir müssen dem Mann 30K Abos besorgen.
For real! Write the book, "Tips, Tricks, and Hacks", I'll buy one!
where can I find a DORK DISC/Spoke Protector for a Shimano CUES 45T sprocket upgrade(current 32T is largest)
for my hybrid?
Use Goo Gone or WD40 instead of Goof Off it won't dull the paint and ruin the clear coat.
So exited can’t wait to watch while eating lunch
take your time I like your videos I can learn allot
Greetings from Germany
Man denkt ja immer, man schaut als einziger solche Kanäle, aber es ist immer schön zu sehen, daß es Gleichgesinnte gibt. Durch die Videos vom Bikefarmer inspiriert habe ich mit letzte Woche ein 90er Bianchi Pholcus , das aus der Serie mit der abgefahrenen Rahmengeometrie gekauft . ( Spinnenserie, lila Schwarz, 21 Gang LSX und Shimano biopace Ovalkettenblatt vorne. Gibt jetzt mein Retro Eisdielenrad 😊
@@matztertaler2777 Dieser Kanal ist international, hehe.^^ Ich schaue immer gerne bei Kleinanzeigen nach billigen Rädern die es wert sind gerettet zu werden, richte sie für so wenig Geld wie möglich wieder her und verkaufe sie dann wieder. Es macht Spaß, man lernt was und tut noch was Gutes für die Umwelt und andere Leute, die einfach nur ein brauchbares Rad suchen. Der "Stundenlohn" ist allerdings überschaubar...
Like that Apron
Gave the BikeFarmer a shout out on JohnnyNurdOuts channel. He deals with95% ebike stuff but not a lot of non electric stuff. You may find his interesting for e bike stuff and his people may find BikeFarner interesting for general bike issues. Trying to help both
Was very fortunate to get introduced to golf at an early age by our uncle. My brother went on to be a PGA teaching pro. We both used to play from morning till dark, many times walking 45 or even 54 holes at the private club we both worked at in the late 1970's. Great game! Nice to hear you enjoy it and are getting back into the game! Nice job on that Navigator!
I prefer WD40 or PBblaster for decal/paint transfer on bikes or painted surfaces to reduce the removal of clear coat.
Dollar stores have furniture polish in a yellow can. Works well
Hi BF, what cordless driver did you use to remove the 4mm bolts from the rack?
Thank you for the great content.
Might as well join in. Greetings from Germany!
The Ryobi electric screwdriver for little jobs!
24:22 your glove had a hot spot
You keep passing over a lot of mechanical items like the SUSPENSION FORK. Does it work? How can it, it's probably some elastomeric ancient junk 25 years old! Did you test it? Does it need oil? Did you check the headsets and bearing cups? Do they need to be lubed? What about the bottom bracket ??? This stuff is important~
This stuff is not that important
Sweet bike👍🏻
I like to use a dime to toe the brake pads 🙂
Good idea when you do not have a business card. But a little hard to hold onto.
Hope you get to enjoy some golf.
Okay dude relax, it's okay, you're a fan of that dorky disc 🤓
happy bicycle day!