Thanks for this tutorial! Your videos are always great. This is going to save me so much money! My bike just came back from BMW garage here in the UK with a cost of £3,568.28 for major service and repair!!! Or around $4,386.70! It's time for me to get learning. The SD was over £250 plus fitting of £54! Had no idea it was that simple to remove, and certainly didn't even think that it could be a serviceable part. Top vids. Thanks.
In a 2007 R1200R, the steering damper has/seems to have a different design. The shaft appears to be a single steel rod and it does not unscrew into two halves/parts. I was able to disassemble by removing the plastic end cap and using a bronze punch to push it in after removing the c clips. it has an O ring in the middle of the steel shaft and a moving bronze plunger with some sort of fiber/felt gasket that was crumbling in my case. In order to rebuild properly, one would need the seals, a new O ring, and a new felt gasket and that may be something someone would be able to do if he could procure these parts but I doubt the average joe could find the right parts, especially that felt gasket. Honestly feels like a design that is meant to hinder repair attempts. Thanks for the video, very informational. There is a TH-cam vid by a Spanish guy that goes through the process in an older bike that has a similarly designed, though not exactly the same, stabilizer (see th-cam.com/video/PYR4aD7PcA0/w-d-xo.html). Ultimately ordered an aftermarket LSL stabilizer from FC Moto in Germany. Can't fathom forking over $500 to bmw to replace the part.
Hi Dennis here again I had a 2002 LT and I chipped it from a company in Texas and added a full Remus Exaust boy did that wake up the motor and I got better gas mileage!!
Thanks for the video, but in your video the “ long part of your steering damper housing is on the opposite side. The scew site has to be mounted on the short side of the damper.
The underlying question is: why do these bikes require a steering damper? I ask this because my new-to-me 2000 K1200RS wanders on the road when going straight. Normally that means the steering stem bearings are notchy or too tight. BMW has felt a need for steering damping for a very long time. Back on my R60/5 there was a mechanical friction adjustment to dampen the steering. But almost every other bike I’ve ever owned, and there have been many, have no such need. Is the steering geometry so steep on these Beemers that they need the damping to prevent head-shake? What happens if you take these dampers off and leave them off?
It has been brought to my attention that the seals featured in this video are not working well. If you find seals that work good please contact me!! Kirk
Metric Seals, Inc. carries a replacement for the steering damper seals. Seals for a high pressure reciprocating environment are different from those for use in a low pressure rotary environment (gearbox type seals). The part number is QHWA10-20-7/8.5. These seals are not cheap $44.10 each, but I guess you get what you pay for. Max Pressure: =16 bar/232 psi. "Predominantly used for sealing liquid and gaseous media in the case of reciprocating motion. In principle, the structure of these cap seals corresponds to that of rotary shaft lip seals, yet the radial limb of the metallic support element is nearer to the rod and the sealing lip is considerable stronger. The sealing lip has been kept shorter in order to avoid extreme deformation under the effect of the medium pressure. The spring-loaded sealing lip achieves good sealing behaviour if the seal is used in the limit temperature range and even in depressurized condition. The helical tension spring provides a constant seal contract pressure over the entire temperature range. The sealing edge has been positioned with respect to the line of spring action in such a way as to ensure a long service life". www.metricsealsinc.com/qhwa10-20-7-8-5-s-10-x-20-x-7-8-5
Great video. I have a 2003 K1200RS and have a problem with my test suspension having a 'clunk' type sound on hard bumps or ruts. It does not feel broken or loose, but feels like it needs lube or some type of grease. All my bikes from Honda to Ducati have a way to grease the swingarm bolts and rear suspension. I cannot find any place on this BMW to lube the rear suspension! Any advice on this problem? Thanks
I would have a look at the shock mounts to see if there is play. The pivots can be lubed but you need to take the Final Drive off to do it. I would also check the ball joints in the front
hello Kirk, dit you find the right seals already?? ill think there is to mutch hydrolic pressure build up for regular oil seals . you realy have to look for hydrolic seals i think
I tried to remove my dampener on my 2002 BMW 1200 RS. The torex bolt won’t come loose. I tried heat, impact driver with no luck. My next try is to grind off the head on the torex bolt. Sad.
i just did mine and it cost 5 bucks each seal 28 for the oil, 10 bucks for new stainless allen screws and 8 bucks for the rubber spacers. and about the same time you took. but to get it off took me an hour and had to drill the front screw out. 8mm x 25 star shaped head. anyhow i stripped it. and had to drill it out. take front wheel off, calipers off. two sections for the front mud guard. mmmmmm i love Beamers
I know you already replaced the seals but if they blow out when you test them, I do have OE seals available. You can test yours by violently moving the handlebars back and forth like a tank slapper. If they blow out like the aftermarket seals I tried, you may have saved yourself from an accident.
@@kirksmotorrad…I have a 2003 k1200lt . Do you have the factory seals for the steering dampener? How much do they cost and how would I pay for them. By the way….your vids are awesome and thanks for taking the time to do them!!
It has been brought to my attention that the seals featured in this video are not working well. If you find seals that work good please contact me!! Kirk
Greetings, I notice the link to the seals is not on your amazon link but I do see a link from you to some below. Does "not working well" mean it is still worth replacing seals that seem to be shot?
@@kirksmotorrad Hi, Kirk, thanks for responding! I did your original refurb on the damper and the seals seem to be holding although it was mostly dry, lol. I was probably riding without much input from it for a couple years. I may try to find some seals and have them if I need to do your newer repair, thanks again.
If you happen to be in Istanbul, stop by MOTOSENKRON and have all the shock absorbers of BMW motorcycles repaired with a one-year warranty, very cheap 250 euros.
I now have OE damper seals available! Contact me through kirksmotorrad.com for details!
Thanks for this tutorial! Your videos are always great. This is going to save me so much money! My bike just came back from BMW garage here in the UK with a cost of £3,568.28 for major service and repair!!! Or around $4,386.70! It's time for me to get learning. The SD was over £250 plus fitting of £54! Had no idea it was that simple to remove, and certainly didn't even think that it could be a serviceable part. Top vids. Thanks.
In a 2007 R1200R, the steering damper has/seems to have a different design. The shaft appears to be a single steel rod and it does not unscrew into two halves/parts. I was able to disassemble by removing the plastic end cap and using a bronze punch to push it in after removing the c clips. it has an O ring in the middle of the steel shaft and a moving bronze plunger with some sort of fiber/felt gasket that was crumbling in my case. In order to rebuild properly, one would need the seals, a new O ring, and a new felt gasket and that may be something someone would be able to do if he could procure these parts but I doubt the average joe could find the right parts, especially that felt gasket. Honestly feels like a design that is meant to hinder repair attempts. Thanks for the video, very informational. There is a TH-cam vid by a Spanish guy that goes through the process in an older bike that has a similarly designed, though not exactly the same, stabilizer (see th-cam.com/video/PYR4aD7PcA0/w-d-xo.html). Ultimately ordered an aftermarket LSL stabilizer from FC Moto in Germany. Can't fathom forking over $500 to bmw to replace the part.
Cheers mate just serviced mine works a treat, hadn't worked for years, nice work thanks
Hi Dennis here again I had a 2002 LT and I chipped it from a company in Texas and added a full Remus Exaust boy did that wake up the motor and I got better gas mileage!!
Thanks for the video, but in your video the “ long part of your steering damper housing is on the opposite side. The scew site has to be mounted on the short side of the damper.
The underlying question is: why do these bikes require a steering damper?
I ask this because my new-to-me 2000 K1200RS wanders on the road when going straight. Normally that means the steering stem bearings are notchy or too tight. BMW has felt a need for steering damping for a very long time. Back on my R60/5 there was a mechanical friction adjustment to dampen the steering. But almost every other bike I’ve ever owned, and there have been many, have no such need.
Is the steering geometry so steep on these Beemers that they need the damping to prevent head-shake? What happens if you take these dampers off and leave them off?
Great, great video. Any update on where we can get good seals? Thanks.
It has been brought to my attention that the seals featured in this video are not working well. If you find seals that work good please contact me!! Kirk
Metric Seals, Inc. carries a replacement for the steering damper seals. Seals for a high pressure reciprocating environment are different from those for use in a low pressure rotary environment (gearbox type seals). The part number is QHWA10-20-7/8.5. These seals are not cheap $44.10 each, but I guess you get what you pay for. Max Pressure: =16 bar/232 psi. "Predominantly used for sealing liquid and gaseous media in the case of reciprocating motion. In principle, the structure of these cap seals corresponds to that of rotary shaft lip seals, yet the radial limb of the metallic support element is nearer to the rod and the sealing lip is considerable stronger. The sealing lip has been kept shorter in order to avoid extreme deformation under the effect of the medium pressure. The spring-loaded sealing lip achieves good sealing behaviour if the seal is used in the limit temperature range and even in depressurized condition. The helical tension spring provides a constant seal contract pressure over the entire temperature range. The sealing edge has been positioned with respect to the line of spring action in such a way as to ensure a long service life". www.metricsealsinc.com/qhwa10-20-7-8-5-s-10-x-20-x-7-8-5
Great video. I have a 2003 K1200RS and have a problem with my test suspension having a 'clunk' type sound on hard bumps or ruts. It does not feel broken or loose, but feels like it needs lube or some type of grease. All my bikes from Honda to Ducati have a way to grease the swingarm bolts and rear suspension. I cannot find any place on this BMW to lube the rear suspension! Any advice on this problem? Thanks
I would have a look at the shock mounts to see if there is play. The pivots can be lubed but you need to take the Final Drive off to do it. I would also check the ball joints in the front
Thank you. I will definitely do as you suggest.
hello Kirk, dit you find the right seals already?? ill think there is to mutch hydrolic pressure build up for regular oil seals . you realy have to look for hydrolic seals i think
Hi Kirk, Yes the seals recommended blew as soon as the bike came off the lift. Have you found and better replacement that works?
Metric Seals has them! Worth their weight in gold apparently... www.metricsealsinc.com/qhwa10-20-7-8-5-s-10-x-20-x-7-8-5
@@kirksmotorrad Thank you sir. They look robust. I'll order some and get back to you. Love your videos!!
Hi Kirk,thanks for the size going to see if it available in Viton maybe that will last.Hey how do I find your Amazon page?
Good job well done Kirk!! Thanks again.
buen trabajo amigo
I tried to remove my dampener on my 2002 BMW 1200 RS. The torex bolt won’t come loose. I tried heat, impact driver with no luck. My next try is to grind off the head on the torex bolt. Sad.
Exactly what happened to me. It's now 22 yrs old and never been serviced. Seems to still work.
Drill the head of the bolt off and remove it with a vice grip and heat once you remove it from the bike
i'm glad to learn from these videos.thx a lot
Good lesson, thank you Kirk
i just did mine and it cost 5 bucks each seal 28 for the oil, 10 bucks for new stainless allen screws and 8 bucks for the rubber spacers. and about the same time you took. but to get it off took me an hour and had to drill the front screw out. 8mm x 25 star shaped head. anyhow i stripped it. and had to drill it out. take front wheel off, calipers off. two sections for the front mud guard. mmmmmm i love Beamers
I know you already replaced the seals but if they blow out when you test them, I do have OE seals available. You can test yours by violently moving the handlebars back and forth like a tank slapper. If they blow out like the aftermarket seals I tried, you may have saved yourself from an accident.
@@kirksmotorrad…I have a 2003 k1200lt . Do you have the factory seals for the steering dampener? How much do they cost and how would I pay for them. By the way….your vids are awesome and thanks for taking the time to do them!!
replied via email. @@jamesmichalak5305
@@kirksmotorrad Hi, I'm also looking for the factory ones, mine blew out.
@@SenorDelSol I have them. Contact me through kirksmotorrad.com
Hi, can you please tell me which oil do you use to refll? Thanks
50-50 mix of Amsoil 10w and 5w fork oil. Any will do. I think there is 7.5w of some brand out there
Great, thanks for the video
Thx Kirk! Great video
Is this the same as on a 1998r1100r? Thank you
It should be
does your seals come in sets or do I have to buy two of them.
It has been brought to my attention that the seals featured in this video are not working well. If you find seals that work good please contact me!! Kirk
how do I search your Amazon page for the seals
I have seals available. Contact me through kirksmotorrad.com
Hi Kirk,can u tell me the size of the seals?
qhwa 10x20x7/8.5 -Kirk
Do you have the part number for the seals? ✌🏻
amzn.to/3MCsHyo
Awesome.. thanks for sharing.
Did anyone rebuild a R Nine T's steering damper before ?
not that I know of
Has anyone found a seal that works? Sorry lots of different links going on.
I have some seals that work. Contact me at kirksmotorrad.com
Greetings, I notice the link to the seals is not on your amazon link but I do see a link from you to some below. Does "not working well" mean it is still worth replacing seals that seem to be shot?
yes. If you can find the seals. Check Metricseals.com
@@kirksmotorrad Hi, Kirk, thanks for responding! I did your original refurb on the damper and the seals seem to be holding although it was mostly dry, lol. I was probably riding without much input from it for a couple years. I may try to find some seals and have them if I need to do your newer repair, thanks again.
You put that back together wrong surely. The ball rod-end joint should be at the other end when you look at a picture of a new one.
lol! no. I put it the right way or it would limit the steering when going right.
@@kirksmotorrad Maybe they are constructed differently on the R1100S then, because all the photos and the parts diagrams show it the other way round.
If you happen to be in Istanbul, stop by MOTOSENKRON and have all the shock absorbers of BMW motorcycles repaired with a one-year warranty, very cheap 250 euros.
Anyone know of a dampener that will work in a 2004 1150rt?