Gary I have been watching your videos before I start work, I'm a builder that started in 1980 full time. And I'm still learning Your a good teacher and I thank you Greg frye
wow this is an incredible video, i watched it twice now, beginning to end, and made some notes, and subscribed ! and bookmarked it. i fixed our '04 Neon transmission problem by getting a parts car for 175 (lot cheaper than a rebuilt trani!) and no the car runs perfect, but i kept the old trani figuring if nothing else try to fix it and learn something and wow i am learning! i live way off the beaten path but can order stuff in and thanks for pointing out the parts you are using, i can get the same ones, and look like not too expensive either. I can't thank you enough for making this video and sharing your vast knowledge.
Hi Gary, I enjoyed your video very much. I have a well maintained 1994 Caravan with 160k miles which I have owned for over 20 years. The A604 transmission was replaced by the dealer under warranty at 42k, so it currently has 118k miles. It still shifts fine and the CVI's are all within normal ranges per the DRB tool. It currently leaks ATF from the bell housing (it drips oil on the driveway after I park it), so I often check the level at normal operating temperature and add fluid to it. The weird thing is, the leak seems to be worse after I add fluid to bring it up to the top of the "hot" area on the dipstick, and it hardly leaks any fluid if at all once the level drops to the bottom of the "hot" area. I've never experienced a shifting issue. I was thinking of just compensating for the lower fluid level by doing more frequent fluid changes. I was wondering if you could shed some light on why the rate of leakage varies. Thanks very much.
Thanks for another video on this trans Gary. You helped me over the winter with one. I finally found out what I did wrong on that; I failed to engage the 2-4 clutches with the hub when installing the input drum, and damaged one of the clutches. I'll do that right on the next one. D.
Of course 4l60s 5r55 , but lately lot of the 6T40 &70s We have always done a lot of Hondas We have never done Allison ( well late model) yet Good to meet you also and hope you have a great week
Greetings Gary, you are quite the mechanic. It was nerve wrecking once again, for me, to see the internals of this 41TE, as opposed to my 77 Chrysler Cordoba's 727 Torque flite 8, that I rebuilt back in 88 after grad from automotive school. You made it look so easy, lol. For me, it was complex, especially being my first rebuild. I've never done it again, just R&R. However, I am now faced with a particular delima. Wondering if you might shed some light on this scenario with my 05 Town & country 3.3L. Three weks ago I was driving fine. Went to turn right when we heard and felt a knock clunk towards lower right side. Drove 2 blocks fine, then tried turning right again and the clunk happened again and this time, the van seemed to turn wide. I discontinued the errands I had to do and headed home by local route and not expessway as I came. Long story short, I replaced both Cv joint axles units (although they were pretty new) but the knocking pop continues on right turn. However, there is one other odd thing; the van seems to also hesitate on turn moving forward. Standing still, I can turn steering left or right and no problem sound is heard. Bare in mind, last year I drove to florida with family, but before that trip, I replaced the following parts: all by Moog- control arms with bushings and ball joints, left & right cv joints, both struts, stab links, hub bearings, inner & outer tie rods, brakes and wheel alignment. Now, the knocking pop sounds to me, like if the right inner cv joint axle is slightly reaching the edge of its hub, thereby skipping and popping back in. This I think is because wheel is somehow extending further out than supposed. Thats what I've felt. But, there's that slight hesitation. So, I carefully drove it to Mavis where their mechanic checked all chassis parts and reported everything to be tight and in place. However, he called me over and showed me, while van was on lift, he rotated the left wheel but right wheel did not turn as normally. It did intermitted skip movements. He also said to listen to some a sound coming from tranny case. He said it sounded as there were metal pieces popping about, I heard it too. He stated that in his opinion, the transmission is at fault. He felt, the fact that IF the left wheel is now the one pulling the van, without the assit of the right, that would explain the hesitation and pull to the right. I would just like to know if that is actually a possible synopsis. Any help is greatly appreciated. God bless.
@@GaryFerraro Thank you very much for the reply. Yes, knock is only heard, hesitate or drag felt on the turn. A transmission shop I used to go to (now too far from me), explained that the differential might be bad. This might explain why supposedly only the left wheel is spinning, and not the right. So do you think, 1) with shift in D, can van Move Forward but with a Hesitation or Drag if only left wheel is pulling vehicle (without the assist of right wheel)? 2) Then, if on a right turn, Can the right wheel and shaft not spinning from the transmissions effort, but spin because wheel is being forced to spin on account that vehicle is being moved forward only by left wheel, (now think about it) Could this cause a condition where tire is being sorta dragged, in which the arms bushings along with upper strut, are being stretched outward some, enough allow inner Cvjoint axle to pivot at edge groves, thereby making the knock sound?? Is this possible? If you don't believe so, you'd be surprised to know, that yes it can, and did. I found bearing track marks on the edge wall of inner Cvjoint hub. The 3 bearings actually skipped out of their original track and popped into the next tracks. I wanted to share this with you, because it is a diagnosis no mechanic will find without close disect and observation. What is your response? And, can the differential be repaired without replacing whole tranny? I have to look up what the spider gears are, perhaps those two.
@@MusicMinisterJP7 The axle or CV Joint goes into the spider gears, if they are bad it may affect the axle, you should just be able to replace the spider gears, make sure the cross pin is good, thats the pin you have to remove to change the gears
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the advice Gary. Unfortunately, I wasn't planning to attempt any repairs myself. I was saddened when my visit to AAMCO transmission resulted in the guy offering the cost of $5,000 for a new transmission, $3,600 for rebuilding mine, or $1,500 + labor for a used one; everything but offering to address and repair the differential/spider gears. I wonder if I can find a shop that can Just work the diff. Worse case scenario, I'd have to junk her. Thanks again, have a blessed Thanksgiving.
Gary - Douglas from Cal again...did some electrical repairs on 2001 Mopar minivan, injector wiring, MAP sensor and also a used PCM from a yard. Even though my CEL isn't on and it runs great now, PCM is showing CEL on but with no codes. But the first time it did it, it did show P0700 and P0720. The speedo acts wonky but really only when you slow down and stop, and perhaps hot. Does this need pinion factor procedure with new PCM? Thanks.
Change the output speed sensor on the trans, either the sensor is bad or the wires are broken, common for the wires to brake at the connector where it plugs into the sensor
Hi there, I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker fifth Avenue, it has the the 41-TE. Between 25-45 miles per hour at times in down shifting the car will jump into limp mode when it’s been driven for awhile and the electronic vehicle information center or (EVIC) cluster will say “Low transmission pressure” and will go into service limp mode (stuck in second gear) and will remain in limp mode until it’s restarted or let sit to cool down for a bit. I’ve been told my silonoid pack may be going out but im wondering if you know any other possible things to check. I’ve already replaced my speed input sensors
Hi. Is this also for Chrysler Grand Voyager IV 3.3L RG? Did you record the video material in 360 (in 2017, FHD is usual, UHD is available)? Do you have a video of the reassembly? Is that very complex? Can I disassemble it, install a new planetary gearset, and reassemble it? For example, at minute 19, these ring shaped "discs", I can not see details. The order and possible alignment of the parts... You could film your next 41tE repair with dissasemble from car, overhauling with replacement of broken planetary gear, reassembly and mounting it to the car in fhd or uhd :-) ...
The video is one of the best content. But more light and resolution, and always pay attention that everything is in the picture (for example, the inside when taking out the big flat "rings"), and it would be perfect. Thank you. I created a playlist for myself (but publicly) with what I found on TH-cam. Your two 41TE videos above.
Gary, is there a gasket for the transfer gear cover for the 41TE. I only found one for the 3 speed (31TH) but cannot find a transfer cover gasket for the 41TE (2000 Dodge Caravan). If you have a part number, please let me know. Thanks
Hey Gary - '01 van with the 41TE, speedo shows speed when first firing up and when sitting at a stop with foot on brake, but resolves when driving. Also slight delayed engagement when first taking off cold. Doesn't appear to be the output sensor or the wiring plug to it. Any chance it's the input speed sensor? I had to put a used ECU in this, but it's separate from the TCM on this van, not integrated like the later ones.
Yeah, prolly used due to budget contraints...it's just a flip. This gets kind of interesting, as ever since I got this running a scanner would show MIL status as 'on', although it wasn't, and it passed two smogs like this. I found no voltage at pin 6 of ECU, 'ASD relay out', which I understand to be a sense wire letting the ECU know the ASD circuit is energized. Later a scan validated that. I ran a jumper from the ASD circuit at the ignition coil, and nothing changed. Then at one point I cut that jumper wire and tested with KOEO at the ECU side, and got voltage...I believe that's a problem. I disconnected the jumper and left it. The other piece of it is that if left for several days without driving it, the battery will go dead. I now wonder, since 1 alternator field wire goes right to the same ASD splice, if a bad diode causing this speedo weirdness could also be somehow shorting while the van doesn't run? Ideas?
Gary - you ever come across anything like this on a 41TE? 'It drives for 10-20 miles at a time before the transmission gives out. It then needs to be off for a while and then it will run again.' Thanks, D.
Gary ferraro have an 95 status with this tranny in it. At first. It just kept seeming like the converter was in lock up all thetime. After having to drive it like startpushing a little bit then put it it gear and hope there's no red lights or stop signs. Cause its just stuck. No stall speed at all. As soon as you come to a stop it dies like a manual would it it were one. Now its leaking aft between the bellhousing and bock. Gimme some ideas please. I need this car for work
I need help please. I overhauled my 41TE of 1997 DGC (270K km). I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, clean/flush the solenoid body, torque converter, except to re-use the old solenoid pack. I tested this SP and the ohms is good within specs. I decided not to replace (just total flush) as I thought I can still replace this if the low shift bump will persist later (as this is an external part). The bump never go away after the overhaul but there's no code. After running some +300km. I decided to replace the SP pack with brand new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps. I understand the bump will start to erase all the spline of the planetary gear as I found out in the overhaul. (I replaced this part too on the overhaul). Thank you for time in advance.
Did you take the piston all the way in the back of the case out? that is the low/reverse piston, behind the piston is the apply plate and a gasket inbetween the apply plate and the case. also, do you know anyone with a good scan tool like a snap-on or autel?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you Gary for giving me your time to reply. Yes I did replace that piston & the gasket with new ones. I brought the van to the shop yesterday morning and code P0700 shows up (the mechanic said its a generic code). He did a road test, accelerates/stops, no more code and did the re-learn (no tire changed, forward/reverse, ignition on/off). And still there were bumps though occasionally. He said it will take many cycles to re-learn. I drove the van (Father's day celeb. with my family) for say 150 km. and still it has bump though like minimized. The hard shift is in like 2nd to 3rd when going uphill and you let go of the gas pedal. The other occasion is when stopping like 2nd to 1st shift. I hope I can find the solution with your help. I though the new SP will solve the problem. Thank you.
@@etiennebisset5642 ok, after he did the relearn did he happen to look at the C.V.I values? Is this guy far away from you, can you maybe get the values
I have a 96 plymouth breeze same transmission its leaking right at the bellhousing, put it in drive it looks like its pissing oil put in neutral it slows to more of a drip. Is the leak coming from the fluid pump seals ?
This trans has fixed pressure, shouldn't really matter what gear your in, it's dripping right out of the bellhousing could be a problem with a spun pump bushing. Have you looked at it on a lift? make sure the lines are ok?
@@GaryFerraro no have not had it on a lift, just up on jackstands and put in gear, oil starting pissing out the leak is very severe, taking the trans out tomorrow to get a better look, just trying to find more info to find out if its toast or just a couple seals and bushings could repair it. I have also checked the lines and they look okay.
My Chrysler Le Baron from 1995 has an 604 41te automatic gearbox to and it rattles softly when changing gears in low rpm. Any idea what it can be.? Greatings from Holland
Just noticed your place to is using aaa as name , that's what name were using till was made to change it or pay BIG money I like yours, we changed are whole name Did you notice I have made a video on safty- kleen mat? Good weekend
Great Video, extremely informative, they have helped me out tons! I also have a 604 in my '05 pacifica but i cant seem to get rid of this p0846 code , any helpful insight ?
Gary Ferraro The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) uses three pressure switches to monitor the fluid pressure in the LR, 2/4, and OD clutch circuits. The pressure switches are continuously monitored for the correct states
Thanks for the speedy reply, i also tried 3 different solenoid packs, a different valve body, a different used pcm and even swapping out with a different wiring harness. Im just scratching my head, cant figure it out. I even tried the ez forum there on the transtar site, no replies though.
Gary Ferraro, i do have a DRB III scan tool at work, im just inexperienced with the properties and values. I'll get it all hooked up hopefully this week and get back to you, again cant thank you enough for the help.
@@GaryFerraro I’m down to the last gears and friction plates and having trouble getting out this is my first rebuild just trying save money have new born baby and this is more I think smart than takin chances on one from junkyard
Gary I have been watching your videos before I start work, I'm a builder that started in 1980 full time. And I'm still learning
Your a good teacher and I thank you
Greg frye
Thanks Greg, Where are you located?
Started in Roanoke va aamco
My dad was builder also
I'm now in Greensboro nc at a independent shop now
This business had changed a lot
Thanks again
Nice to meet you greg, Greetings from New York. Just wondering, what kind of cars do you get alot of?I get alot of hondas and ford explorers here.
wow this is an incredible video, i watched it twice now, beginning to end, and made some notes, and subscribed ! and bookmarked it.
i fixed our '04 Neon transmission problem by getting a parts car for 175 (lot cheaper than a rebuilt trani!) and no the car runs perfect, but i kept the old trani figuring if nothing else try to fix it and learn something and wow i am learning!
i live way off the beaten path but can order stuff in and thanks for pointing out the parts you are using, i can get the same ones, and look like not too expensive either.
I can't thank you enough for making this video and sharing your vast knowledge.
Wow, Thats great, thanks for sharing
Hi Gary,
I enjoyed your video very much. I have a well maintained 1994 Caravan with 160k miles which I have owned for over 20 years. The A604 transmission was replaced by the dealer under warranty at 42k, so it currently has 118k miles. It still shifts fine and the CVI's are all within normal ranges per the DRB tool. It currently leaks ATF from the bell housing (it drips oil on the driveway after I park it), so I often check the level at normal operating temperature and add fluid to it. The weird thing is, the leak seems to be worse after I add fluid to bring it up to the top of the "hot" area on the dipstick, and it hardly leaks any fluid if at all once the level drops to the bottom of the "hot" area. I've never experienced a shifting issue. I was thinking of just compensating for the lower fluid level by doing more frequent fluid changes. I was wondering if you could shed some light on why the rate of leakage varies. Thanks very much.
Thanks for another video on this trans Gary. You helped me over the winter with one. I finally found out what I did wrong on that; I failed to engage the 2-4 clutches with the hub when installing the input drum, and damaged one of the clutches. I'll do that right on the next one. D.
yes, i remember, glad you got it done.
Of course 4l60s 5r55 , but lately lot of the 6T40 &70s
We have always done a lot of Hondas
We have never done Allison ( well late model) yet
Good to meet you also and hope you have a great week
Do you get many ZF transmissions ?
Greetings Gary, you are quite the mechanic. It was nerve wrecking once again, for me, to see the internals of this 41TE, as opposed to my 77 Chrysler Cordoba's 727 Torque flite 8, that I rebuilt back in 88 after grad from automotive school. You made it look so easy, lol. For me, it was complex, especially being my first rebuild. I've never done it again, just R&R. However, I am now faced with a particular delima. Wondering if you might shed some light on this scenario with my 05 Town & country 3.3L. Three weks ago I was driving fine. Went to turn right when we heard and felt a knock clunk towards lower right side. Drove 2 blocks fine, then tried turning right again and the clunk happened again and this time, the van seemed to turn wide. I discontinued the errands I had to do and headed home by local route and not expessway as I came.
Long story short, I replaced both Cv joint axles units (although they were pretty new) but the knocking pop continues on right turn. However, there is one other odd thing; the van seems to also hesitate on turn moving forward. Standing still, I can turn steering left or right and no problem sound is heard. Bare in mind, last year I drove to florida with family, but before that trip, I replaced the following parts: all by Moog- control arms with bushings and ball joints, left & right cv joints, both struts, stab links, hub bearings, inner & outer tie rods, brakes and wheel alignment. Now, the knocking pop sounds to me, like if the right inner cv joint axle is slightly reaching the edge of its hub, thereby skipping and popping back in. This I think is because wheel is somehow extending further out than supposed. Thats what I've felt. But, there's that slight hesitation. So, I carefully drove it to Mavis where their mechanic checked all chassis parts and reported everything to be tight and in place. However, he called me over and showed me, while van was on lift, he rotated the left wheel but right wheel did not turn as normally. It did intermitted skip movements. He also said to listen to some a sound coming from tranny case. He said it sounded as there were metal pieces popping about, I heard it too. He stated that in his opinion, the transmission is at fault. He felt, the fact that IF the left wheel is now the one pulling the van, without the assit of the right, that would explain the hesitation and pull to the right. I would just like to know if that is actually a possible synopsis. Any help is greatly appreciated. God bless.
If all front end parts are ok, wondering if the spider gears have a problem, you only hear this noise on a turn?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you very much for the reply. Yes, knock is only heard, hesitate or drag felt on the turn. A transmission shop I used to go to (now too far from me), explained that the differential might be bad. This might explain why supposedly only the left wheel is spinning, and not the right. So do you think, 1) with shift in D, can van Move Forward but with a Hesitation or Drag if only left wheel is pulling vehicle (without the assist of right wheel)? 2) Then, if on a right turn, Can the right wheel and shaft not spinning from the transmissions effort, but spin because wheel is being forced to spin on account that vehicle is being moved forward only by left wheel, (now think about it) Could this cause a condition where tire is being sorta dragged, in which the arms bushings along with upper strut, are being stretched outward some, enough allow inner Cvjoint axle to pivot at edge groves, thereby making the knock sound?? Is this possible? If you don't believe so, you'd be surprised to know, that yes it can, and did. I found bearing track marks on the edge wall of inner Cvjoint hub. The 3 bearings actually skipped out of their original track and popped into the next tracks. I wanted to share this with you, because it is a diagnosis no mechanic will find without close disect and observation. What is your response? And, can the differential be repaired without replacing whole tranny? I have to look up what the spider gears are, perhaps those two.
@@MusicMinisterJP7 The axle or CV Joint goes into the spider gears, if they are bad it may affect the axle, you should just be able to replace the spider gears, make sure the cross pin is good, thats the pin you have to remove to change the gears
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for the advice Gary. Unfortunately, I wasn't planning to attempt any repairs myself. I was saddened when my visit to AAMCO transmission resulted in the guy offering the cost of $5,000 for a new transmission, $3,600 for rebuilding mine, or $1,500 + labor for a used one; everything but offering to address and repair the differential/spider gears. I wonder if I can find a shop that can Just work the diff. Worse case scenario, I'd have to junk her. Thanks again, have a blessed Thanksgiving.
@@MusicMinisterJP7 Some shops will not do that, can't believe the prices they are quoting
Thanks Gary for one more nice video .! (I like to see assembly videos , if you have time to make them .!
John, I have one on a honda, i will put that up in a few weeks
Gregg where do you live i would love to learn how to rebuild transmission you make it look so easy
Gracias gracias por enseñarnos
Yes we have always done a lot of zf"s , those and 722.6&.9 , kinda my favorite
And a lot of explorers also
Sounds good, nice to talk to a rebuilder, i have pretty much the same work load
Gary - Douglas from Cal again...did some electrical repairs on 2001 Mopar minivan, injector wiring, MAP sensor and also a used PCM from a yard. Even though my CEL isn't on and it runs great now, PCM is showing CEL on but with no codes. But the first time it did it, it did show P0700 and P0720. The speedo acts wonky but really only when you slow down and stop, and perhaps hot. Does this need pinion factor procedure with new PCM? Thanks.
Change the output speed sensor on the trans, either the sensor is bad or the wires are broken, common for the wires to brake at the connector where it plugs into the sensor
Okay. It just never did it before I did the work, only after. Thank you, D.
Hi there, I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker fifth Avenue, it has the the 41-TE. Between 25-45 miles per hour at times in down shifting the car will jump into limp mode when it’s been driven for awhile and the electronic vehicle information center or (EVIC) cluster will say “Low transmission pressure” and will go into service limp mode (stuck in second gear) and will remain in limp mode until it’s restarted or let sit to cool down for a bit. I’ve been told my silonoid pack may be going out but im wondering if you know any other possible things to check. I’ve already replaced my speed input sensors
if it goes into limp mode, there should be a code or codes present, can anyone scan the car
@@GaryFerraro idk who might can. Thought about trying autozone’s scanners
Good job!
Thank you
Hi. Is this also for Chrysler Grand Voyager IV 3.3L RG?
Did you record the video material in 360 (in 2017, FHD is usual, UHD is available)?
Do you have a video of the reassembly?
Is that very complex? Can I disassemble it, install a new planetary gearset, and reassemble it?
For example, at minute 19, these ring shaped "discs", I can not see details.
The order and possible alignment of the parts...
You could film your next 41tE repair with dissasemble from car, overhauling with replacement of broken planetary gear, reassembly and mounting it to the car in fhd or uhd :-) ...
I could try to disassemble in more detail, but i do not pull them from the cars, my installers do
The video is one of the best content.
But more light and resolution, and always pay attention that everything is in the picture (for example, the inside when taking out the big flat "rings"), and it would be perfect.
Thank you. I created a playlist for myself (but publicly) with what I found on TH-cam.
Your two 41TE videos above.
If your building a 604 and have any questions, just drop me a line, be happy to help.
HOLY SMOKES! is that ATF+4 or CRUDE OIL????
Atf +4 lol
The final 604/41TE was built today.
Really, are you with Chrysler ?
Gary, is there a gasket for the transfer gear cover for the 41TE. I only found one for the 3 speed (31TH) but cannot find a transfer cover gasket for the 41TE (2000 Dodge Caravan). If you have a part number, please let me know. Thanks
I'm sure someone makes a gasket, They do not come in the overhaul kits. I always use silicone, using a gasket may produce a leak down the road
@@GaryFerraro Sounds good. I just brought some Permatex Ultra Black silicone. Thanks!
Hey Gary - '01 van with the 41TE, speedo shows speed when first firing up and when sitting at a stop with foot on brake, but resolves when driving. Also slight delayed engagement when first taking off cold. Doesn't appear to be the output sensor or the wiring plug to it. Any chance it's the input speed sensor? I had to put a used ECU in this, but it's separate from the TCM on this van, not integrated like the later ones.
If the speedo reads while standing still, unplug the alternator and see if that fixes it, let me know
Wow; you're right. With ALT unplugged, the speedo works properly. Thank you Gary!
Your installing a new alternator?
Yeah, prolly used due to budget contraints...it's just a flip. This gets kind of interesting, as ever since I got this running a scanner would show MIL status as 'on', although it wasn't, and it passed two smogs like this. I found no voltage at pin 6 of ECU, 'ASD relay out', which I understand to be a sense wire letting the ECU know the ASD circuit is energized. Later a scan validated that. I ran a jumper from the ASD circuit at the ignition coil, and nothing changed. Then at one point I cut that jumper wire and tested with KOEO at the ECU side, and got voltage...I believe that's a problem. I disconnected the jumper and left it. The other piece of it is that if left for several days without driving it, the battery will go dead. I now wonder, since 1 alternator field wire goes right to the same ASD splice, if a bad diode causing this speedo weirdness could also be somehow shorting while the van doesn't run? Ideas?
Makes sense, do the alternator see what happens
Gary - you ever come across anything like this on a 41TE? 'It drives for 10-20 miles at a time before the transmission gives out. It then needs to be off for a while and then it will run again.' Thanks, D.
Sounds like the filter is clogging up
@@GaryFerraro Oh wow...thank you Gary.
Exelent job friend!!!!👍👍👍👍
Thanks Carlos
100 views a day
On a 604 video on witch I learned a couple things I think is big Garry !
Have a good weekend
Thank you, you too
Gary ferraro have an 95 status with this tranny in it. At first. It just kept seeming like the converter was in lock up all thetime. After having to drive it like startpushing a little bit then put it it gear and hope there's no red lights or stop signs. Cause its just stuck. No stall speed at all. As soon as you come to a stop it dies like a manual would it it were one. Now its leaking aft between the bellhousing and bock. Gimme some ideas please. I need this car for work
I need help please. I overhauled my 41TE of 1997 DGC (270K km). I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, clean/flush the solenoid body, torque converter, except to re-use the old solenoid pack. I tested this SP and the ohms is good within specs. I decided not to replace (just total flush) as I thought I can still replace this if the low shift bump will persist later (as this is an external part). The bump never go away after the overhaul but there's no code. After running some +300km. I decided to replace the SP pack with brand new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps. I understand the bump will start to erase all the spline of the planetary gear as I found out in the overhaul. (I replaced this part too on the overhaul). Thank you for time in advance.
Did you take the piston all the way in the back of the case out? that is the low/reverse piston, behind the piston is the apply plate and a gasket inbetween the apply plate and the case. also, do you know anyone with a good scan tool like a snap-on or autel?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you Gary for giving me your time to reply. Yes I did replace that piston & the gasket with new ones. I brought the van to the shop yesterday morning and code P0700 shows up (the mechanic said its a generic code). He did a road test, accelerates/stops, no more code and did the re-learn (no tire changed, forward/reverse, ignition on/off). And still there were bumps though occasionally. He said it will take many cycles to re-learn. I drove the van (Father's day celeb. with my family) for say 150 km. and still it has bump though like minimized. The hard shift is in like 2nd to 3rd when going uphill and you let go of the gas pedal. The other occasion is when stopping like 2nd to 1st shift. I hope I can find the solution with your help. I though the new SP will solve the problem. Thank you.
@@etiennebisset5642 ok, after he did the relearn did he happen to look at the C.V.I values? Is this guy far away from you, can you maybe get the values
@@GaryFerraro I will ask him to check again. Thank you Garry.
@@etiennebisset5642 ok, If he did a quick learn they may read ok but also may not read ok if a clutch pack is to tight or loose
Is there a difference between underdrive pistons that are for vehicles with 4 cylinders and 6 cylinders?
There are 2 different ones, one of the pistons are rarely used, as long as the height is the same, you can use it in 4 or 6 cyl.
@@GaryFerraro thanks brother
I have a 96 plymouth breeze same transmission its leaking right at the bellhousing, put it in drive it looks like its pissing oil put in neutral it slows to more of a drip. Is the leak coming from the fluid pump seals ?
This trans has fixed pressure, shouldn't really matter what gear your in, it's dripping right out of the bellhousing could be a problem with a spun pump bushing. Have you looked at it on a lift? make sure the lines are ok?
@@GaryFerraro no have not had it on a lift, just up on jackstands and put in gear, oil starting pissing out the leak is very severe, taking the trans out tomorrow to get a better look, just trying to find more info to find out if its toast or just a couple seals and bushings could repair it. I have also checked the lines and they look okay.
My Chrysler Le Baron from 1995 has an 604 41te automatic gearbox to and it rattles softly when changing gears in low rpm. Any idea what it can be.? Greatings from Holland
This happens in all gears,? fluid level full?
Thanks for your answer but the soft rattles is only in the low gear and in low rpm from 1-2 or back.
@@1Didgeridoo when you say rattle, is it more like a shudder? it only happens from the transition from 1st to 2nd?
Gary Ferraro
I dont know what shudder mans, but the gears rattle softly in 1st and 2 gear but only in low apm. The oil level is alright.
If you get a crack in the bellhousing can you fix it by welding. Back sir
Yes, Thank you
Is this the same transmission used in a 2011 Dodge Avenger?
What is your engine size?
@@GaryFerraro It's a 2.4L 4 cylinder. If it helps it's a 4 door Mainstreet Dodge Avenger 2011 model.
Just noticed your place to is using aaa as name , that's what name were using till was made to change it or pay BIG money
I like yours, we changed are whole name
Did you notice I have made a video on safty- kleen mat?
Good weekend
We had the same problem, so we dropped one A so we are actually AA transmissions. Nice video on the mat, i just watched it.
Great Video, extremely informative, they have helped me out tons! I also have a 604 in my '05 pacifica but i cant seem to get rid of this p0846 code , any helpful insight ?
Do you know the definition of that code?
Gary Ferraro The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) uses three pressure switches to monitor the fluid pressure in the LR, 2/4, and OD clutch circuits. The pressure switches are continuously monitored for the correct states
Thanks for the speedy reply, i also tried 3 different solenoid packs, a different valve body, a different used pcm and even swapping out with a different wiring harness. Im just scratching my head, cant figure it out. I even tried the ez forum there on the transtar site, no replies though.
If you put a scan tool , look at live data, do you see the switch changing state?
Gary Ferraro, i do have a DRB III scan tool at work, im just inexperienced with the properties and values. I'll get it all hooked up hopefully this week and get back to you, again cant thank you enough for the help.
Chance Webb, your post did not show, you can e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
Hello friend . It is hard to see what you are taking out . No light.
sorry about that, i have added since
Ressurrectio, Your post did not show, you can e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com.
Thanks for not showing a god damn thing in the center of the transmission
sorry, have another 41TE video i'm preparing, to put up in a few weeks
@@GaryFerraro thanks aggravating job not at u sorry
Found a clip holding 2-4 down half broke and having problem getting it out it’s after the two clipped rings that have the air hole
@@brandonhorstman1774 Do you mean the 2-4 piston and the housing the piston sits in?
@@GaryFerraro I’m down to the last gears and friction plates and having trouble getting out this is my first rebuild just trying save money have new born baby and this is more I think smart than takin chances on one from junkyard