Dude! This is THE BEST visual instruction for the V3 reinforcement, which I am in the process of doing now. Underside is prepped for welding, and next is taking apart the interior and the trunk to prep. I noticed on your underside that you didn't grind flat the surfaces of the re-plates. Did that not cause any problems with the alignment of the subframe when you bolted it back in place?
If the inside front MIG welds failed and you simply repaired it, what will prevent it from failing again? Cutting and welding inside the car just to repair something that will fail again seems not really optimal... The Vincebar kit's gusset cups seem like a much better solution. Also at 11:00, won't the bottom welds crack in no time? Where the plate is welded to the RACP at a 90-degree angle. There will be small angular movement/vibrations between the RACP and the plate moving with the chassis rail, which is going to end up cracking the weld I believe... This bottom weld will see large concentrations of stress and the plate could detach from the RACP, leaving no benefit. This would not happen with the Vincebar. Of course all I said doesn't apply to your case because you'll have a cage reinforcing everything. I'm speaking about a case with no additional reinforcement.
OEM MIG welds are frequently total crap. Replacing them with quality welds - in addition to actually connecting the RACP to the frame rail with the 008 plates to reduce movement - should be a permanent solution. If I'm building a racecar, I might put in a truss spanning the strut towers and connected to the frame rail; but for a street car/daily driver, I'm going with new MIG welds and the 008 plates only. (I have a sealed subwoofer enclosure mounted where the x-brace would go, and I'm not giving up my music!!)
Dude! This is THE BEST visual instruction for the V3 reinforcement, which I am in the process of doing now. Underside is prepped for welding, and next is taking apart the interior and the trunk to prep. I noticed on your underside that you didn't grind flat the surfaces of the re-plates. Did that not cause any problems with the alignment of the subframe when you bolted it back in place?
Wow! Tidy job bud. 👍🏻
Appreciate you!
Cudos to Redish for the support of this great channel.
Couldn't thank them enough man! James is awesome!
If the inside front MIG welds failed and you simply repaired it, what will prevent it from failing again? Cutting and welding inside the car just to repair something that will fail again seems not really optimal... The Vincebar kit's gusset cups seem like a much better solution.
Also at 11:00, won't the bottom welds crack in no time? Where the plate is welded to the RACP at a 90-degree angle. There will be small angular movement/vibrations between the RACP and the plate moving with the chassis rail, which is going to end up cracking the weld I believe... This bottom weld will see large concentrations of stress and the plate could detach from the RACP, leaving no benefit. This would not happen with the Vincebar.
Of course all I said doesn't apply to your case because you'll have a cage reinforcing everything. I'm speaking about a case with no additional reinforcement.
I agree. The Vincebar plus the plates seems better all around but I also like the x brace.
OEM MIG welds are frequently total crap. Replacing them with quality welds - in addition to actually connecting the RACP to the frame rail with the 008 plates to reduce movement - should be a permanent solution. If I'm building a racecar, I might put in a truss spanning the strut towers and connected to the frame rail; but for a street car/daily driver, I'm going with new MIG welds and the 008 plates only. (I have a sealed subwoofer enclosure mounted where the x-brace would go, and I'm not giving up my music!!)
As usual great progress keep going bro.
Appreciate you Ahmed! Thank you!
CMP bar bro!
Oh yes, all of that is coming. This thing will be tight!
Thank you for another quality video 😍
You're very welcome my friend! Glad you enjoying them!