Retraction Calibration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- Basic Stringing test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080224
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Ok another helpful calibration you can do with your printer is the retraction, let’s see how.
Ok first, what is the retraction? Retraction happens when the head needs to move from point A to point B without extruding any plastic. What happens is that the filament is retracted by an amount in millimeters so that it doesn’t drop everywhere during the move.
And you can have too much retraction or not enough. Here is an example of no retraction at all:
- As you see the strings between the two towers, this is plastic oozing out because of the pressure buildup in the head, when the head moves from the left tower to the right one and vice-versa.
Now let's see what too much retraction does:
- There are gaps between the layers, and it has no structure to it. It is easily breakable.
And finally when the retraction is just right:
- You see no oozing, the part is mechanically robust, and plastic is showing outside the towers.
You have to do the test yourself. You sure can find some settings for your printer on the internet, and start from there and do your test.
I will link to the .stl file on Thingiverse in the description so that you can do this for yourself. It takes not much time to print. And this setting can help printing when needing a lot of retractions steps.
Ok, now how do you change retraction? The settings for retraction is done in your slicer, in Cura, for example, you have to go in custom mode here and add the retraction settings in the Material menu, with the little gear next to it. And then search for retraction, and add the ‘Enable Retraction’ and ‘Retraction Distance’ settings. Normally the rest of the settings should be fine. Maybe you could also add ‘Retraction Speed.'
So that’s it, go and play with this and find the best setting for your printer.
And please don’t be shy and leave a comment, and if you liked this video press that little thumbs up if you please.
Thank you, and see you in the next video!
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Hi, I'm Frank my channel is all about 3D printing. I can't get enough of my 3D printer. I make everything and anything out of 3D filament (PLA, PETG and more). As I say a printer that is not printing is a missed opportunity.
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Thanks for the 'complete' example, everyone else out there ONLY shows the not enough retraction with stringing. But not whats happens in the other direction.
Thank you, glad it is of help to you!
hello,
I have the same printer,
I was wondering if you were able to find a solution for it?
Thank you
exactly what i was going to say, would of saved me a lot of time if i saw this before i spent time playing with retraction
This is one of the most simplest and usefull tutorials about retraction, and I agree with orbitalair, there is alot of people talking about the retraction in one direction ( not enought ) but this is equal important about to not exceed, and you shows excellent, thanks man! best regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Thank you for these examples. when i did custom retraction i put too much retraction on and had no idea why it was so brittle. Now its perfect
Finally am explanation that makes sense! I now know that my retraction is set to high and how I can fix it.
Thank you very much for keeping it simple!
I have just the stringing problem with my first 3D printer.
Thanks to your clear and to the point explanation it solved my issue straight away.
It makes me happy that it helped you! Thank you.
thank you for the quick and easy explanation of this issue
Thank's man this fixed all of my problems that I was thinking was extrusion problem
Perfect explanation and so easy to understand and by showing the results I just found my problem.
Thanks, Frank. I used the retraction settings used by others who had the same printer as me. It worked great as there was no stringing in the test print but I had some bumps along the side of one of the towers. Thinking it may have been caused by too much retraction I reduced the setting by 0.5mm and my next test print with the towers was perfect. :)
That’s the way to do it!
thank you. i kept wondering why my brand new expensive extruder (titan aero) kept looking so bad, like the third one. it was driving me nuts. but now i know why!
This is so simple tutorial, i'll try it out thanks sir!
Bravo Frank! Merci beaucoup pour cette excellente video!
Great stuff sir! I just put a Microswiss end on my MK8 and was lost as to why quality DROPPED, you helped figure that out quick. Great delivery !
Great Video Frank. Going to Calibrate strings out of this parameter now!
Nice. This will probably be my first print test once I get my printer set up. I downloaded the String Test file, except followed the Remix link and got the one with the smaller base for faster printing.
+Duck Landes good idea, should have done that to for speed.
Simple and clear, thanks for the video frank.
Awesome quality and format. Good job man. Thanks.
Thank you kindly.
You should try the "retract continue" post-processing plugin. This resolves all stringing and oozing for me (expert user ~10 years in 3d printing now). It works on an Ultimaker Original/2/2+/3/S3/S5, on other printers, and with ALL FILAMENTS as well.
It basically keeps retracting the filament whilst making a travel move. Which in turn prevents hot plastic from leaving the nozzle.
You could also increase the retraction distance, BUT... when you do this you make some not necessary E-moves that flatten your filament.
Open Cura (4.4 or later) --> Extensions -->Post processing --> Retract continue
I would be more than happy to see a part 2 where you test this:D
Great idea thank you, put it on the list, now got to find time to do more videos!
@@Franks3Dshop have you made this video yet :)
Is this still around? I can’t find it.
so what do you set Extra Retraction Ratio to????
One of the most helpful series of videos!
Thank you!
Frank's 3D shop I was wondering, I have a blockage on my MP select mini V2. I’ve tried a cold pull, but it either snaps off to a flat point or it doesn’t remove anything. Any tips?
Me too today! What I did is remove the heat bloc from the heat break, used pliers to hold the heat bloc, than did the cold pull without everything else in the way...
That is maybe extreme, you can also just disconnect the PTFE tube from the hot end, than do your cold pull from there, it’s hard to get the cold pull over all of that tubing, you have to be really fast so that it does not bloc inside the long tube when it gets colder and solidifies.
Frank's 3D shop thanks!
Thank you, simple yet effective. Much appreciated!
The video is very helpful, Thank you..
Thanks for this video, I like its short and very understandable, I think I am missing a little explanation about the two new parameters so users can know which one to rise or low and the interaction between them.
Excellent videos as always!
This video helped me IMMENSLEY. Thank you so much!
Thank you very much for this video!
Very clear explanation, I appreciate it very much! 👍
I enjoyed this short video 😃
+Brayam Gomez Thank you!
I like the one with the stringing... its pretty.
Not when the strings get all over your bed :P
Very interesting point. Maybe this can be used as a technique.
I thought that, it looks intentional because of the detail and how symmetrical the pattern is. You could beaten the towers by hand and it would be a cool decorative piece 👍
thanks for this now im printing better!!
Simple and well explained , cheers.
Thank you from France !
Merci beaucoup du Québec :-)
Easy to understand. Thank you so much. I'm so annoy with oozing issue
I just wonder that you said "Chao" in Vietnamese at the end of the video! So cool.
Humm it’s more like chow like the italians, but I am glad to know that chao is also in Vietnamese, I only know goodnight in Vietnamese.
Really grateful for your examples.
I dont suppose you have a video on how speed of retraction is related etc. I.e the 3 adjustables you added.
Hi, no I do not have a video on that, but speed is less of an issue, between 25 and 40 mm/s seems good for PLA on either Bowden or direct feed extruder.
Thank you for your video!
It will help examples... Like how much I should change the values... What was your values for the three models... Thanks!
Hi, they were really far from what is used normally to show the extremes. For direct drive printers with the motor just over the extruder it is around 1mm of retraction and with Bowden tube setups it’s like 4mm or more depending on the length of the tube, speed is around 25mm/s to 40
Thanks, just dialed in my retraction on my ender 3 which has a V6 on it, I went from too much, to too little, to just right, good examples
Which are your settings??
@@jonnysins7249 ended up being about 0.65mm, as a note I have a DD BMG on it which is why it is so low
You should also consider lower temparature setting if you have excessive stringing. Also fan speed can affect stringing but not as much. Another thing to take into consideration is to determine your max retraction distance. If you have all metal heatbreak AVOID PULLING FILAMENT INTO COLD END! This can cause clogging or heat creep and ruining your print, especially when printing with PLA. Measure the max distance between cold end and hot end. Also you can try speeding up travel moves.
Million thanks for your comment. You made me realise what I was doing wrong and why my all metal was clogging all the time. I don't even know why I set 3mm on it... it always created this plug that clogged the filament.
Hey, i just mounted a new heatbreak and ran into the mentioned issues. I don't know what's the cold end tho, would you mind explaining it to me? Thank you very much!
@@BlackBunik Bi-metal heatbreak here, I have the same problem... What retraction setting did you end on?
3:42 best Borat interpretation :D
Great video, thanks for sharing friend :)
Clear and concise. Thank you
Awesome video but I didn't get when to add or subtract? It would help to know with the retraction DISTANCE setting for example In the case of STRINGING(not enough retraction) do you ADD or SUBTRACT from the RETRACTION DISTANCE?
Good video!!!!!!
Apart from retraction Distance, any effect by adjusting travel speed and Z Hop when retracted?
Yes and no, Z Hop can help but it adds time, moving really slow on moves would also impact this.
Nice video Frank. I am using flsun f3 printer and having same problem.. and use slic3r can you suggest setting for the same??
Hi, since you have a bowden tube feeding the hot end, setting should around 4-10 mm/s from my experience.
Content de voir un channel d'un québécois qui imprime en 3D. Ton anglais est vraiment bon mais il y a quelque chose dans l'accent qui m'a fait douté, c'est la plaque du Québec sur ton mur qui m'a fait réaliser. Tu as un nouvel abonné.
very useful and without all the hype!
Thats actually super interesting for me right now, I have not seen an example like the third. Just swapped to a smaller nozzle and tried a similar test print but it actually broke while printing (it was pretty small tho). But your third example seems promising, I will completly turn off retraction and then work my way up again
although there are already many people who said the same, thanks a bunch for showing too much retraction
i wish you said what settings you used for the middle string test that turned out really nice.
On the Monoprice mini I use 4 mm of retraction at 25 mm/s
sa sens le quebec en criss j'aime vrm sa
merci
Pas mal Québec oui
@@Franks3Dshop salut Frank 3d shop J'ai bien aimé ta video.. but j'ai une ender 3 ! et j'aimerai avoir la distance de rétractation et la vitesse !!! merci
Salut, avec un long tube pour amener le filament commence par 5mm à une vitesse de 25mm/s et ajuster plus ou moins la longueur. Une fois trouver le bon ajustement tu pourras essayer un peu plus vite et voir l’effet sur la finition...
Thanks man.. save my life!
Hi Frank thanks for the video! Which retraction distance and speed are you using for the test?
I was playing with temperature, and I also enabled the experimental coasting feature in cura
cool idea to test a new (unknown) batch of filament before printing the bigger object
seen another test for the hot end heat and the bed heat , with all three you should be able to set everything up the right way first try
wonder if the enclosed chamber volcano hot ends and 750 watt bed heaters are actually needed (though a inproved fan cooler for the print might actually help make sharper corners )
Hi, for sharp corners the new Linear Advance mode of Marlin does a beautiful job.
Thank u for the information 👍🏻😁
Hi Frank, wich are the settings that you use for retraction for the monoprice mini V2?. Thanks for the videos.
I use 5mm and 25mm/s myself
straight forward , thank you very much !
hi i have a question. you mentioned to play around with the retraction distance. should the retraction speed be left constant?
Awesome video !! Thanks for sharing !!
Je reconnais cet accent ! Merci pour le video, tres pratique !
Great videos Frank! From the first video I watched from your channel it was obvious to me that you know what you're talking about. Keep them coming!
Sure will!
cool video, thank you
Very good video!
Thanks for the help mate
Heyyy that's my Metroid Ship :)
+MrFearlesskiller Yep Christmas is coming
Excelent explanation.
I have a problem and i think that this is my problem, maybe a retraction calibration.
I'm trying to print with PETG material and i cant control correctly the filament move (when the material is pushing down, goes back.. making a sound like a cough)
So, sometimes, i could find a solution increasing the extrusor temperature but it's a problem to find a impression quality.
Thanks for your time, you have a great channel and you are very didactic.
Greetings from argentina.
Hi, great to be of help, what you are describing could be a clog, I would do 4-5 cold pulls to clear it out, I have a couple of videos about that:
How to Clean a 3D Printer Nozzle
th-cam.com/video/hBkTeXxcFi8/w-d-xo.html
Monoprice Mini - How To Clear a Nozzle Jam Easily
th-cam.com/video/8zsV_FN-y4o/w-d-xo.html
CR-10S Unclogging The Nozzle
th-cam.com/video/qUJgMbY6QMo/w-d-xo.html
Also depending on the printer you have, PETG could be hard to print, the higher temperature may melt the PTFE lining inside the hot end, that is what happened on one of my printers.
What were your settings for the 3 tower examples? So we can get an example of what was too much.
Hi, if I remember, I went really far to be able to get those camera friendly results, the important thing is to know if you are over or under and do some tests to get the optimal setting. Do an extrusion calibration before that.
Thank u so much for the helpful info. ! !
If anybody can help me with my problem tho, I am printing hydrogel with air pressure based extruder and printing simple shapes like a cylinder.
The thing is that the initial amount of extrusion when the pressure starts to apply and the rest of the extrusion amount as air pressure valve stays open.
Can I solve this problem with ooze settings like common PLA printing settings?
I still can't understand is Retraction Extra Prime a good feature for rigid plastics? How is it vs Coasting or it can be used in the combination? The Ultimaker's doc says just few phrases about this feature. Is the positive stays to suck in the filament or it need to be set to -0.** value?
Yea thanks mann... Looks like my retraction distance is too long...
Did your 4mm at 40mm/sec works better ?
Hi Frank, Hello from Australia. I have recently purchased the Ender3 Pro and am getting to know it, I am new to 3d printing. I am using PLA+ and am getting a perfect print but with extremely fine stringing, almost like a spiders web. The poles are perfect, have tried changing temps up to 215 with the same results. Also tried changing the quality but settled on .15mm. Retract at 5 and 40mm. Have changed the .4 nozzle for a new one with same results. Am I expecting to much from my machine.
Hi! I would check if the extrusion is calibrated like in this video th-cam.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/w-d-xo.html also verify that you have no extrusion multiplier in your slicer. If you use Cura you can also play with the Combing settings. Hope it helps.
You could also have gone into how you can adjust retraction on the fly, mid-print by having firmware retraction enabled.
Is 'Retraction' how much it lifts the extruder from the current layer, or is retraction how much it reverse feeds the filament - similar to releasing pressure on a culk gun so it doesn't ooze out the end?
Hi, it's the reverse feed to prevent oozing when moving to another area of the print.
Thanks for video! May be you found ratio between speed and distance (for exp. your setup 4mm 40mm/s, my default 6.5mm 25mm/s)?
Hi, I would say use what works for you, make the test as I did and you will have your answer! Thanks for the comment.
One more question, distance and speed depends on type of material? ABS, PLA...
It’s mostly how the printer extruder is situated, on Bowden Tube setup when the extruder is far from the hot end, you need more retraction distance to compensate for the slack in the tube. Speed is key to stringing and blobs, it has to be fast enough to stop the oozing. Material like flexibles, you have to disable retraction because of the elasticity.
i am currently using the same printer in this video... i have had to set mt retraction to 7 and speed to 70, just not to get this spider silk style stringing. 7 sounds a bit too much but the stringing is not fully gone. any other ideas on what may be happening.
Hi, at which speed do you pint? also it changes the retraction setting?
Hi, I usually print at 50mm/s on the mini, 60 on my other printers, it should not impact retraction.
tanks man !!!!
What about retraction speed? How do you determine the optimal setting for that?
I would start at 25mm/s you can go higher as long as the stepper motor does not skip, usually for most printer it’s around 20-40 mm/s
Hi Frank, I got my printer working pretty well with your help, but Ive run into some problems I need your advice on...when I printed the 30mm to 40mm fan adapter you had listed on my mini, the print only completed about two thirds of the way and was very thin and brittle. The top broke away from the base so I'm slicing the file again and I'm going to try it again. Ive had a few prints that have come out thin and not complete. Not sure whats going on...any suggestions? Thanks, Richard Jackson
Hi, it could be your extrusion calibration, mine was off had to issue a M92 E111 and a M500 on the printer (look at my video on PID Autotune to know how), that would be my first suggestion, try that first. Use my video about extrusion to verify the setting.
And get back to me about this, please.
Extrusion problems
th-cam.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/w-d-xo.html
Auto PID Tuning Heat Bed Calibration.
th-cam.com/video/YpWCKNagjuI/w-d-xo.html
Which printer do you have exactly ?
I have a Monoprice Mini V2, a Hictop 3DP11, and I almost have finish a Prusa clone with with a 3030 aluminum extruded frame called Haribo.
That’s one reason why I’m changing out my extruder on my 10s Pro. Even though I’m having good settings on retraction ... the filament is slipping in the extruder. Took me a while to figure it out ... but their extruder is going by ... by. Later
I like the E3D extruders, they are some of the bests in my option.
Does this include extra stringiness from such as PETG?
Hi, I did not see any difference between PETG and PLA, if you have a long tube bringing the filament to the hot end, just prime the nozzle before starting a print it will compensate for the stringiness, generally the longer the tube, the longer the retraction you need.
Hello Frank how can I download this print so I can practice I'm very new and you have helped a lot.
Mike
look at description
thank me later
Ciao!!! 😂 Great video... It's really so simple?
I think that each details of 3D printer is simple taken separately, but there are many details to think of. That is why my videos are focused on one thing at a time.
I assume that I need to re adjust if I change layer heights and or print print speed.
Should I have combing off/on
Hi, retraction is only affected by the size of the extruder gears, layer height as no effect on it your slicer will compensate. Combing is good in my experience, it could make for a longer print time depending on the model, it is not nescessary if you have linear advance active and adjusted.
thanks for these tips. I did the tests on the pillars to find the right settings. But on the boat it doesn't work. if I understood correctly, the parameters of retraction must be done on each project?
Hi, no retraction could change with temperatures, print speed and filament type but by experience I never change it once it’s set with the exception of flexible filament where you turn off retraction. You could also have over extrusion calibrate your extrusion and if it is still doing it on the Benchy lower extrusion by 1% until you get it right, but not more than 4% th-cam.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/w-d-xo.html
@@Franks3Dshop I find solution. i just up the level temp. All my test si with 195°C on the pilars. i Up at 215°C for the boat 3DBenchy.
For "lower extrusion by 1% until you get it right, but not more than 4%", you mean about the valeur of "extrusion multiplier" in Simplify3D?
Yes exactly the extrusion mutiplier
@@Franks3Dshop Than you for your time
recommendations on less blobbing on petg with cura settings?
Humm PETG needs almost no part cooling I get mine to 30%, temperature needs to be higher 240 is a good middle range. Than calibrate you flow rate and make sure your nozzle is up to spec as for the hole diameter.
hi.
thanks for this video. I'm using flash forge printer with flash forge software how to pick this feature from the flash forge software
another question: how to add my flash forge printer in Cura software?
thanks again.
Hi I do not own a falshforge, the setting could be flow, extrusion factor, or rate... Found this for a beginning in Cura : www.thingiverse.com/thing:3569113
That space ship is awesome!!! I vant vone! Where can I haz?
It's here www.thingiverse.com/thing:1216231
I use high levels of retraction (like 10 to 100 )and 100speed but I get fillament strings! What should I do?
Mine is like the one with too much but also had bad stringing blobs
thank you!
I'm struggling with mine I'm trying to print slik and it's not coming out shiny like I have seen so is this my retraction coasting or my flow multiplayer I haven't got my coasting set high bec if it's higher than 0.006 I get holes in my prints
Thank you!
4:21 CooOOoL!
For PLA 4/40 is normal. For PETG with its ductility, the speed must be reduced, the length must be raised.
I'm getting the lovely combination of not enough retraction and too much at the same time. I'm at my wits end. no settings seem to be right. its been a year :(
Hi, first calibrate extrusion th-cam.com/video/lvTiOxRwEtc/w-d-xo.html than if you have a bowden tube feeding the extruder use 5 to 8 mm at 30mm/s of retraction, if it’s a direct drive extruder use 1mm or less of retraction at 30mm/s, than the temperature influence also the stringing, try 200C and if you have stringing, lower it by 5 degrees at a time down to 190 minimum. Bad PLA can also cause some problems, here in Canada I get good results with Amz3D PLA.
liked the video, liked the beard, subscribed! :)
Same
Is 0mm retraction distance the same thing is un-checking "enable retraction" ?
Hi, I think so yes.
Can you please tell that what settings should i use with repetier host, cura engine. I have doubled the retraction i.e 40 to 80 and dropped down the temp from 210 to 195 for my extruder but still got no success. I am confused with retraction distance and min extrusion distance can you please suggest what can be the issue??
40mm seems a lot to me, is it speed you are talking about? Maybe you are not setting the retraction distance but the speed of it. For speed I use around 25mm/s to 40mm/s.
For retraction distance, 0.8mm of retraction with my direct drive and 4mm of retraction for a Bowden setup.
Also check the Combing setting in Cura, if it is set to « All » change it to « Off » or « NoSkin », I use noSkin most of the time.
Tell me if it helps.
I have a Monoprice Select Mini V1. I tried doing what you said to do, but looking at the printer, it doesn't look like it is actually pulling filament back in. Any ideas? Thanks.
Hi it could be a setting in your slicer, the printer is able to go both ways for sure...
Frank's 3D shop ok, thanks!
thanks
What was your setting parameters?
Hi, omg at least you may leave some values for both distance and speed for PLA. anyway thanks i see clearly that i have not enough retraction :)