I remember when I was a teenager in the 1970s and I used to play a jukebox exactly the same as that in a cafe in Brixton South London, memories, I remember playing I Just Can't Help Believing by Elvis Presley when it was just released I used to play it every Saturday.
It's tight seeing that old school amp. I like amps, my home Sony STR-DE325 unit is from 99.' Old school but not Rock-Ola old school. Made in the U.S.A.-a mostly bygone era for anything electronics related. You don't only get mega props for the repair but for also having the Stylistics, Heatwave, Dionne, Kool and the Gang and some of their classic cuts. Nice mix of overall genres. The exterior is sublime looking too.
Probably the best Rock-Ola video on TH-cam this has helped me to start working on my Concerto that has been none moving since purchase. Thanks for posting 👍
Cracking videos. Had our rockola 445 for a while now and never really been at its full potential. Slowing up and not really playing great. (been in parents garage for years and originally come from a fish and chip shop). Your videos have pushed me into stripping it down and giving it some TLC. Cheers.
Thanks for those three great videos. I guess it's possible to memorize a few selections, consecutive “write-ins” will raise several levers, then these levers will be read when the selector rotates. I used a similar jukebox in my arcade in 1983, I remember I never knew when my selection would play… With your explanations I understood that the next record played just seems to be the one whose lever is reached first. I also enjoyed to see how the operator can know which records are played the most. When you were testing only one record, just one piece of metal was raising out of the plate. Greetings from Paris
I have this Rock Ola 445 Jukebox. And it works! It has a few quirks even though it does work (and I play it frequently) but it's difficult to find someone who can work on it. :( Thanks for the videos on the 445. They are enlightening!
Thanks for your video series on this rockola repair!!! I am rebuilding a 444 and this series was VERY helpful! I tried to watch another youtubers channel on it but he shot his vids with a potato strapped to a pogo stick plus never explained what he was doing. Your channel is a favorite of mine now. If I manage to get my 444 fully operational (it sat for 30 years) then I will reply with a celebratory video of my own.
Very cool, let us know how it works out.... the 444 is pretty cool because it's just before they started with the cpu's which are hard to fix.... so you can get a 444 and that era working pretty good since the parts aren't cpu controlled yet. Good luck with it!
I got a 446. Looking forward to fiddling with it when I get done with all these pinball machines! Thanks for explaining all the steps man! Super cool box! =)
I picked up a Rock-OLA 440 today and found your videos on the 445 very helpful. Luckily this one is working already but it did have an issue with the Disc spindle continuously spinning in Operation mode every now and then. I clicked the switches and it stopped. It seems to be a specific section of the read/write disk. It's going to be a nice little project :)
I have a 686 Rock-ola, for free play someone in the past has added a hack, a push button switch that adds a credit. It is mounted on the back of the machine. Hope this helps
First of all ,Joe thanks for fast and helpful responses but all those adjustments were made but still the same problem. I think I my need to check the play control relay located in the Power distribution assembly (where ever that is ) and also the magazine motor relay in the control box . Somethings not sending the right signals to the right places.
Your videos are very helpful......I can offer only one suggestion and maybe it is mentioned in some of your other videos. I cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight (or anywhere similar) when applied to that gripper bow assembly will free up a lot of the gunked up grease and allow you to oil the mechanism and get going......without all that dis-assembly which is difficult and time consuming. Hey, my two cents only......
I've heard a couple other people say you can do that too, I used to just oil them and free them up but as time has went on I think they're getting worse so I just take them apart now :) Thanks for watching William, we appreciate it!
Hello Jay! I enjoy watching your videos!Last year I bought a Rock Ola 444 and started servicing it. You helped me a lot to be able to restore this jukebox. But there was a problem and maybe you can give me some advice. Thank you in advance!I cleaned it very carefully and replaced the missing parts . I supplied the device with power and after a few adjustments it worked perfectly for a few days. Then, all of a sudden, those WRITE IN solenoids no longer wanted to hit those pins at the time of the write in sequence. It finds the selected song, it stops next to the pin (the tooth ) but it doesn't do anything anymore(does not hit the pin). If I move that pin with my finger, then the carousel starts (read out) and play the selected song (the disc put on the turntable, rolled to the end and then put back in the carousel). To give a clearer idea, I will explain the exact steps. I give him credit from the credit button on the credit box (the one for servicing). I press the keys (ex. A 1). The keys remain locked (pulled by the solenoid next to the keyboard), then the arms for write in start to rotate and stop next to the selected song (A 1 ). After this moment, the carousel starts spinning, but it doesn't stop because no PIN is moved. After a few turns, I have to unplug it because the solenoid on the wobble plate starts to get very hot because it remains activated (I think it deactivates after the pin is reset by the read out arm). I'm not sure but I suspect. Please help me with some advice .Maybe you or somebody know where this problem comes from.Maybe somebody can show me where to look more carefully... where to look or what to check. I don't understand why it worked and then stopped doing everything properly. I I also reset the gear wheel with tooth from the credit box. I replaced all the relays, checked the fuses. I cleaned the write in and read out tracks with extreme care. I think that the solenoids on the write in arm are not activated by the red wires. The ground works (the black wire). I am desperate. I wanted to give my family some unforgettable moments this Christmas, but it seems that the whole plan fell through ... Mike
OK these vids are great and very helpful. My 467 doesnt pick up the record and looks like I have to clean that shaft mechanism like you did. Looks like a PITA to do it and to line everything up correctly. I also have to recap the amp, but less of a concern at the moment (See my YT channel on vintage radio restoration). TNX for posting the vids! Great stuff. Peter
@@LyonsArcadeGreat! I got the contacts all working well (except maybe it dosnt seem to go back to the home position). The record changing is like it is in slow motion and it trips the mechanism breaker a lot. Does this sound like a cleaning of the shaft from old grease? TNX!
I'd be super grateful if you could tell me where you got those awesome diagrams on how to strip down the mechanism as I'm working on a model 461, have the service manual but it doesn't contain those exploded diagrams.
The 'magic' returning coin trick could work also- just re-route the coin slide to the coin return chute instead of the normal drop-box repository and use the same quarter over & over! (NO incinerated solenoids to worry about!)
Hey, very good video! The problem my Ola 443 has that it stops after the write in. It switches the pin (I guess) and then stops. Did the thing with contact spray. Any other ideas?
For it to do the 'read out' the record has to be hung back up and the switches on the cam in the back back to the home position. If it's halfway through sequence or can't hang the record up for instance, or if the switch on the cam isn't making electrical contact, or misadjusted the power can't move the basket which is tied to the read out arm. So for instance if you're playing a record, you can select another one and the write in will turn around and write it in, but the machine won't start 'reading it out' because it's in the middle of playing a record. Until the cam gets back to it's home position, it thinks it can't turn the basket yet because you haven't hung the record up yet. So you need to check to see if the switches are adjusted right on the cam, if they're all working and making electrical connection, etc.
Question please. First let me say Thank You for your video, it really helped me bring life back into my 1970 443 Rock-ola. Thank you. Question, do you remember, for the big cap’s where you used 2 cap’s, to replace the 1, did you get exactly 1200uF? I'm looking at replacing the Copastors, and can't seem to find the proper replacement 1200uF caps. I'm thinking of doing what you did and use 2 cap’s to make the 1. But I still can't make the exact size 1200. I can get a 1000, and a 220 for 1220uF, or a 1000 and a 150, for 1150uF. Should I go over, or under, and have tolerance of +/- 20% make the difference? Or just keep looking for the right 1200uF combination? Thank again
Always go a little bit over if you run into this situation, and like you said if you're within 20% or so it's not that critical on something large like that. The 1220 is so close it's practically the same thing, go with that one! Thanks for watching Edwin!
Have one the same all works but the left bottom and top speakers the sound has stopped coming out 🙁, it's not the speakers, but can't seem to find out why they don't work, could it be the amp?
Hi Riley! Yes, it's likely the amplifier.. .it has two channels in it (left, right) and i'ts not uncommon for one channel to stop working. If you take it out of the machine, and open it up, look inside the amp for blown fuses. If you have a blown fuse if you look on the schematics, that area that connects to that fuse has a problem, probably a blown transistor or shorted capacitors. It's pretty common to take these apart and replace all the electrolytic capacitors to get them sounding good again. If you don't have any blown fuses replacing the electrolytic capacitors will probably bring the sound back...
The micro switch’s are clean and adjusted. I wondering does the gripper arm JUST need to be resting on the magazine or with it fully in the record release position when adjusting micro switch # 1
Richard it shows it all in the manual what position to adjust them at, do you have that part of the manual? I can email it to you if you send me your email.
Joe's Classic Video Games I have the manual and have adjusted the micro switches , I’m wondering does gripper arm just need to rest on the magazine or also be in the record release position which requires and addition turn of the gear
Richard it tells you in the manual, I'll quote what it says. "To adjust, phonograph must be in stand by position, (gripper arm over record magazine) and the service scan switch moved to 'off'. 1. Rotate the knurled end of the gripper motor shaft counterclockwise until a jam occurs" . So standby position would be with the record released, and then the very first step tells you to turn it even farther so that it jams and you can't turn it any farther. Then step 2 is you adjust the microswitches.
I've got the mechanism working now, bit I have intermittent sound and lights. Where can I get a repair manual for my 474 Rock-lola? Thanks and keep up the great videos
I have a 435 Rock-Ola princess deluxe. I can select a record and the write in motor finds the selection but wouldn’t read the selection. When I move the lever to scan the gripper motor runs not the magazine motor. The turn table runs great ant amp works so records do play. Any suggestions
I haven't had one do that but I believe there's a switch on the back cam that's responsible for switching the power from the magazine to the gripper, if those switches are dirty or misadjusted it would do things like run the wrong motor....
I seem to recall that there were a coupe of circular pads sitting outside the jukebox in part 1, that I assumed to be protective pads for the turntable. Were these not reinstalled/replaced? or were they determined to be unnecessary?
use a pnp npn transistor curcuit with a relay switch. To turn the power off and on to the solonoid via the power going into the solonoid. I also thought you could use a pnp transistor curcuit that is grounded to the coin slot. to where you can just run your hand over making contact with curcuit. Basically the touch curcuit puting power on the relay at the solonoid being they took that tooth out or other wise you would just need it at the coin slot. Kind of nastalgic running hand over like puting in quarters. Make it to where youd kick it like fonzi. Hahaha
Thanks for the video. I just picked up one that looks exactly like this one however I don't know which model it is yet. The only thing I didn't like is all of the repairs were done off screen and that's the part I wanted to see. Maybe it's intuitive. Maybe not. You mentioned on one part you used sandpaper but do you use sandpaper on all parts or will it damage some? And where do you get this manual? And the part done off screen and the zip tie thing? Didn't follow that. Well at the least I think it's going to be an adventure. Do you offer repair services? Thanks again. It was enlightening.
I'll try really hard next time to make the free video exactly like you imagined it in your head it should be, sorry to dissapoint you, and I look forward to you doing it better soon
@@LyonsArcade I'm sorry it came across as hurting your feelings. I did not intend that. I appreciate what you did show. I did state that. I'm a novice which I'm assuming is who you made the video for. It was a great video and I picked up a few things but the repairs were done off screen so I have no idea what happened there. And I sure don't want to mess up a nice piece of equipment. Thanks for your free video.
The jukebox looks great!! I couldn't help wondering if you guys ever contacted the previous owner, they might like to see the jukebox in all its glory again? I know I would,but I get a bit sentimental with these sorts of things lol.
Hi I’m over in the uk and bought my first jukebox for home in 1980 ( my ex took it with her when we split up 😟) anyway I bought a Rock Ola 445 in about 1992 and it is well past due a service and after watching your clips I feel confident that I can do it so thanks very much 😀 do you have or know of a site to download the service manual for free?
You could also removed that solenoid and somehow manually hold the assembly in the position that the solenoid pulls it to. Then you would not have to worry about the solenoid burning up.
You can't do it that way because it has to release the buttons at the end of each selection. You could probably add a third button or something to press though if you were concerned about it.... press one button add a credit and turn the solenoid on, then press the two selection switches, then it would reset the coil like usual after that.
@@LyonsArcade i used to have a very nice 100 record unit, wished i never sold it, but moved and didnt have room for it :( Used to work on Rock-o-La units all the time
I have no knowledge about these whatsoever (came by from an Lgr video), but one question: this machine has to be fully filled all the time? As there seems to be no 'check' on whether or not a record is present. Lovely vids btw. It looks awesome.
It is supposed to be completely filled, but only because the basket is off balance if it's half full.... there is actually a check, when it lays the needle down if there's no record there's a little post that grounds out on a pcb board behind the turntable before the needle goes all the way down and if properly adjusted it cancels the record. If there's a record on there the needle sitting on the record is high enough to keep the post from not grounding out....
Very cool to see, just one thing tho, in my youth I could have filled it several times but to day I have no vinyl. Do you think you could fit a USB port : )
You can buy vinyl. Thrift stores and yard sales are good sources. You'll find all genres and eras of music. If you bluetooth it, you won't get the authentic jukebox sound. Got to hear a little static/scratches to bring back the memories; otherwise, might as well just play through a bluetooth speaker. jmo BTW, Joe's videos are great help and you might be able to troubleshoot your Rock Ola's problems.
@@tcarol5770 I know, I just said I dont own any now. Used to have a mobile disco back in the 80's, had a box the size of a single bed full, not including 12", or my own personal stuff (punk). Way too bulky for me these days.
this may sound stupid and may not work,( like gomer pile once said" stupid- stupid- stupid !!!") could you use a "TY-RAP" on the sol. plunger to give "FREE PLAY" that way ,( with the add- subtract credit unit with no credits left ?????) that way the solenoid coil is just going along for the ride( de- energized) just a thought. also, on the amplifier, recapping is a great idea, I always change out the electrolytic caps(multi-section) just for "AGE" reasons. you can tell if they are "LEAKY" by touch method, they should be operating cold, if they are warm or hot, they have got to go!!!. many times you can "REFORM" the caps by using a "VARIAC" and ramp up the line voltage to the amp slowly( watch amp draw when doing this, or use a 200 watt light bulb in series with the primary winding of the power transformer). like you have said many times these units have been setting around for years. slamming 120 volts to the amp may cause "LYTIC CAP FAILURE", also checking resistor values is also a must, the "CARBON COMPOSITION" resistors drift up in value as they "AGE". the tube amps can tolerate "sloppy resistor values", however the solid state amps----- not so much!!!!!
That solenoid coil is a doozy, it has to be pulled in or the buttons won't latch in.... and it has to de energize after the buttons are pressed. You could probably rig up some sort of leaf switch or something that energizes it when the first button is pushed down (so that it holds it down) but whatever you added would have to make sure the usual operation (the coil staying energized, until both buttons are pressed and the selection is registered, then it lets it go and resets the buttons) still works.... I'll bet somebody's figured out some way to do it...
I think i will clean up the arm of our jukebox in the clubhouse to. the action will be better after that i think.... for the freeplay , could you maybe clamp /restrict the solenoid and remove the energy from the solenoid?
Unfortunately that won't work because the solenoid has to release after the selection is made. You'd have to add another button to add a credit or something to energize it.
Send me your email and I'll send you the schematics, I downloaded them from somewhere but can't remember where. I was actually using the schematics from a 443.
This series saved another Rock-ola 451 from the trash heap. Got mine working based solely on these videos.
Very cool Brenden! Glad to hear you got it up and running, I love those old Rock-Ola's !
I remember when I was a teenager in the 1970s and I used to play a jukebox exactly the same as that in a cafe in Brixton South London, memories, I remember playing I Just Can't Help Believing by Elvis Presley when it was just released I used to play it every Saturday.
That's a great song!
It's tight seeing that old school amp. I like amps, my home Sony STR-DE325 unit is from 99.' Old school but not Rock-Ola old school. Made in the U.S.A.-a mostly bygone era for anything electronics related. You don't only get mega props for the repair but for also having the Stylistics, Heatwave, Dionne, Kool and the Gang and some of their classic cuts. Nice mix of overall genres. The exterior is sublime looking too.
We try to mix in a whole bunch of different stuff because we don't know what the customers will want in it when they buy it :)
Probably the best Rock-Ola video on TH-cam this has helped me to start working on my Concerto that has been none moving since purchase. Thanks for posting 👍
Glad it's helping you out Ian, we appreciate you watching!
Cracking videos. Had our rockola 445 for a while now and never really been at its full potential. Slowing up and not really playing great. (been in parents garage for years and originally come from a fish and chip shop). Your videos have pushed me into stripping it down and giving it some TLC. Cheers.
Go for it Jason, it ain't that hard :)
Great work. It's great that they had the foresight to put ALL that information in the manual for you to work through.
Yup, they were very well done. The Atari manuals were really nice too on the video game side.
Thanks for those three great videos.
I guess it's possible to memorize a few selections, consecutive “write-ins” will raise several levers, then these levers will be read when the selector rotates. I used a similar jukebox in my arcade in 1983, I remember I never knew when my selection would play… With your explanations I understood that the next record played just seems to be the one whose lever is reached first. I also enjoyed to see how the operator can know which records are played the most. When you were testing only one record, just one piece of metal was raising out of the plate.
Greetings from Paris
Yup, I'll show that part a ittle more on the next one I do like that, it keeps track of which ones nobody played so you can swap em out :)
I have this Rock Ola 445 Jukebox. And it works! It has a few quirks even though it does work (and I play it frequently) but it's difficult to find someone who can work on it. :( Thanks for the videos on the 445. They are enlightening!
Holly you can get it back in shape, if you look in the manual it explains how every little part works! Thanks for watching, we appreciate it!
Thanks for your video series on this rockola repair!!! I am rebuilding a 444 and this series was VERY helpful! I tried to watch another youtubers channel on it but he shot his vids with a potato strapped to a pogo stick plus never explained what he was doing. Your channel is a favorite of mine now. If I manage to get my 444 fully operational (it sat for 30 years) then I will reply with a celebratory video of my own.
Very cool, let us know how it works out.... the 444 is pretty cool because it's just before they started with the cpu's which are hard to fix.... so you can get a 444 and that era working pretty good since the parts aren't cpu controlled yet. Good luck with it!
I have this exact Rock Ola! It’s been sitting waiting for me to have some time to address it. Thanks to you I have some ideas to get it working again.
Now's the time, remember the Rock Ola's are all similar so if you can fix one you can fix another :)
I got a 446. Looking forward to fiddling with it when I get done with all these pinball machines! Thanks for explaining all the steps man! Super cool box! =)
Thanks for watching Heath, let us know if you get it up and running :)
Thanks for the free play info, been looking everywhere
Thank you Josh
I picked up a Rock-OLA 440 today and found your videos on the 445 very helpful. Luckily this one is working already but it did have an issue with the Disc spindle continuously spinning in Operation mode every now and then. I clicked the switches and it stopped. It seems to be a specific section of the read/write disk. It's going to be a nice little project :)
Have you got a video showing - taking out the read in and read out plate and mechanism and cleaning contacts and re-assembling it all. Great videos.
Sweet ! This is so satisfying to look at.
It's getting there :)
I have a 686 Rock-ola, for free play someone in the past has added a hack, a push button switch that adds a credit. It is mounted on the back of the machine. Hope this helps
I have the 444 which is the 160 selection of this same Juke Box, I am waiting on a key to get here so I can check it out.
Very cool Michael, they're nice little boxes!
I have the exact same model it plays pretty good having the same problem with it reading
First of all ,Joe thanks for fast and helpful responses but all those adjustments were made but still the same problem. I think I my need to check the play control relay located in the Power distribution assembly (where ever that is ) and also the magazine motor relay in the control box . Somethings not sending the right signals to the right places.
On one of those videos (maybe the one before this one) we messed around with that motor relay down under the turntable
Your videos are very helpful......I can offer only one suggestion and maybe it is mentioned in some of your other videos. I cheap heat gun from Harbor Freight (or anywhere similar) when applied to that gripper bow assembly will free up a lot of the gunked up grease and allow you to oil the mechanism and get going......without all that dis-assembly which is difficult and time consuming. Hey, my two cents only......
I've heard a couple other people say you can do that too, I used to just oil them and free them up but as time has went on I think they're getting worse so I just take them apart now :) Thanks for watching William, we appreciate it!
Hello Jay! I enjoy watching your videos!Last year I bought a Rock Ola 444 and started servicing it. You helped me a lot to be able to restore this jukebox. But there was a problem and maybe you can give me some advice. Thank you in advance!I cleaned it very carefully and replaced the missing parts . I supplied the device with power and after a few adjustments it worked perfectly for a few days. Then, all of a sudden, those WRITE IN solenoids no longer wanted to hit those pins at the time of the write in sequence. It finds the selected song, it stops next to the pin (the tooth ) but it doesn't do anything anymore(does not hit the pin). If I move that pin with my finger, then the carousel starts (read out) and play the selected song (the disc put on the turntable, rolled to the end and then put back in the carousel). To give a clearer idea, I will explain the exact steps. I give him credit from the credit button on the credit box (the one for servicing). I press the keys (ex. A 1). The keys remain locked (pulled by the solenoid next to the keyboard), then the arms for write in start to rotate and stop next to the selected song (A 1 ). After this moment, the carousel starts spinning, but it doesn't stop because no PIN is moved. After a few turns, I have to unplug it because the solenoid on the wobble plate starts to get very hot because it remains activated (I think it deactivates after the pin is reset by the read out arm). I'm not sure but I suspect. Please help me with some advice .Maybe you or somebody know where this problem comes from.Maybe somebody can show me where to look more carefully... where to look or what to check. I don't understand why it worked and then stopped doing everything properly. I I also reset the gear wheel with tooth from the credit box. I replaced all the relays, checked the fuses. I cleaned the write in and read out tracks with extreme care. I think that the solenoids on the write in arm are not activated by the red wires. The ground works (the black wire). I am desperate. I wanted to give my family some unforgettable moments this Christmas, but it seems that the whole plan fell through ...
Mike
OK these vids are great and very helpful. My 467 doesnt pick up the record and looks like I have to clean that shaft mechanism like you did. Looks like a PITA to do it and to line everything up correctly. I also have to recap the amp, but less of a concern at the moment (See my YT channel on vintage radio restoration). TNX for posting the vids! Great stuff.
Peter
Thank you for watching Peter, glad you enjoyed it, hope it helps!
@@LyonsArcadeGreat! I got the contacts all working well (except maybe it dosnt seem to go back to the home position). The record changing is like it is in slow motion and it trips the mechanism breaker a lot. Does this sound like a cleaning of the shaft from old grease? TNX!
Guys...the gripper unit was the issue. Works great now! I posted a video on my site and cited you guys.
I'd be super grateful if you could tell me where you got those awesome diagrams on how to strip down the mechanism as I'm working on a model 461, have the service manual but it doesn't contain those exploded diagrams.
Digital Aura, check here: arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/Rockola/
wow .well done you !! always fascinated how they worked......thank you !! :)
Thanks Sas Farmer!
I am working on a rock-ola 433. And this one I have been looking for. Now where can I find 1 and 2 of 3
Here you go! - th-cam.com/video/Q9Yt43Ey5jA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/zqD3SoSIP8M/w-d-xo.html
The 'magic' returning coin trick could work also- just re-route the coin slide to the coin return chute instead of the normal drop-box repository and use the same quarter over & over! (NO incinerated solenoids to worry about!)
Nice job! Auto brake cleaner would strip all that ole gunk right off!
Yup, that would work perfect... I'm still using up that contact cleaner I bought for the selector, lol
Hey, very good video! The problem my Ola 443 has that it stops after the write in. It switches the pin (I guess) and then stops. Did the thing with contact spray. Any other ideas?
For it to do the 'read out' the record has to be hung back up and the switches on the cam in the back back to the home position. If it's halfway through sequence or can't hang the record up for instance, or if the switch on the cam isn't making electrical contact, or misadjusted the power can't move the basket which is tied to the read out arm.
So for instance if you're playing a record, you can select another one and the write in will turn around and write it in, but the machine won't start 'reading it out' because it's in the middle of playing a record. Until the cam gets back to it's home position, it thinks it can't turn the basket yet because you haven't hung the record up yet. So you need to check to see if the switches are adjusted right on the cam, if they're all working and making electrical connection, etc.
Question please. First let me say Thank You for your video, it really helped me bring life back into my 1970 443 Rock-ola. Thank you.
Question, do you remember, for the big cap’s where you used 2 cap’s, to replace the 1, did you get exactly 1200uF?
I'm looking at replacing the Copastors, and can't seem to find the proper replacement 1200uF caps. I'm thinking of doing what you did and use 2 cap’s to make the 1. But I still can't make the exact size 1200. I can get a 1000, and a 220 for 1220uF, or a 1000 and a 150, for 1150uF. Should I go over, or under, and have tolerance of +/- 20% make the difference? Or just keep looking for the right 1200uF combination? Thank again
Always go a little bit over if you run into this situation, and like you said if you're within 20% or so it's not that critical on something large like that. The 1220 is so close it's practically the same thing, go with that one! Thanks for watching Edwin!
Have one the same all works but the left bottom and top speakers the sound has stopped coming out 🙁, it's not the speakers, but can't seem to find out why they don't work, could it be the amp?
Hi Riley! Yes, it's likely the amplifier.. .it has two channels in it (left, right) and i'ts not uncommon for one channel to stop working. If you take it out of the machine, and open it up, look inside the amp for blown fuses. If you have a blown fuse if you look on the schematics, that area that connects to that fuse has a problem, probably a blown transistor or shorted capacitors. It's pretty common to take these apart and replace all the electrolytic capacitors to get them sounding good again. If you don't have any blown fuses replacing the electrolytic capacitors will probably bring the sound back...
@@LyonsArcade Dirty input level controls or main volume control can also cause one channel to cut out. Had both happen to my 445.
The micro switch’s are clean and adjusted. I wondering does the gripper arm JUST need to be resting on the magazine or with it fully in the record release position when adjusting micro switch # 1
Richard it shows it all in the manual what position to adjust them at, do you have that part of the manual? I can email it to you if you send me your email.
Joe's Classic Video Games I have the manual and have adjusted the micro switches , I’m wondering does gripper arm just need to rest on the magazine or also be in the record release position which requires and addition turn of the gear
Richard it tells you in the manual, I'll quote what it says. "To adjust, phonograph must be in stand by position, (gripper arm over record magazine) and the service scan switch moved to 'off'. 1. Rotate the knurled end of the gripper motor shaft counterclockwise until a jam occurs" . So standby position would be with the record released, and then the very first step tells you to turn it even farther so that it jams and you can't turn it any farther. Then step 2 is you adjust the microswitches.
I've got the mechanism working now, bit I have intermittent sound and lights. Where can I get a repair manual for my 474 Rock-lola?
Thanks and keep up the great videos
The best place to pick up stuff is www.JukeboxParts.com they've got all kinds of stuff for these!
I have a 435 Rock-Ola princess deluxe. I can select a record and the write in motor finds the selection but wouldn’t read the selection. When I move the lever to scan the gripper motor runs not the magazine motor. The turn table runs great ant amp works so records do play. Any suggestions
I haven't had one do that but I believe there's a switch on the back cam that's responsible for switching the power from the magazine to the gripper, if those switches are dirty or misadjusted it would do things like run the wrong motor....
This helped a lot but can you explain how to remove the tone arm? Thank you
another solution to the solenoid issue: put a time switch (set to 05:00 to 23:00, for example) between the jukebox and mains.
That would work just fine!
I seem to recall that there were a coupe of circular pads sitting outside the jukebox in part 1, that I assumed to be protective pads for the turntable. Were these not reinstalled/replaced? or were they determined to be unnecessary?
It's a leather (or pleather) disc that came off the turntable, I glued it back on after this video.
use a pnp npn transistor curcuit with a relay switch. To turn the power off and on to the solonoid via the power going into the solonoid. I also thought you could use a pnp transistor curcuit that is grounded to the coin slot. to where you can just run your hand over making contact with curcuit. Basically the touch curcuit puting power on the relay at the solonoid being they took that tooth out or other wise you would just need it at the coin slot. Kind of nastalgic running hand over like puting in quarters. Make it to where youd kick it like fonzi. Hahaha
That would be a great way to do it, might take a little tinkering to get it right but yeah it'd be like the Fonz, LOL
Thanks for the video. I just picked up one that looks exactly like this one however I don't know which model it is yet. The only thing I didn't like is all of the repairs were done off screen and that's the part I wanted to see. Maybe it's intuitive. Maybe not. You mentioned on one part you used sandpaper but do you use sandpaper on all parts or will it damage some? And where do you get this manual? And the part done off screen and the zip tie thing? Didn't follow that. Well at the least I think it's going to be an adventure. Do you offer repair services? Thanks again. It was enlightening.
I'll try really hard next time to make the free video exactly like you imagined it in your head it should be, sorry to dissapoint you, and I look forward to you doing it better soon
@@LyonsArcade I'm sorry it came across as hurting your feelings. I did not intend that. I appreciate what you did show. I did state that. I'm a novice which I'm assuming is who you made the video for. It was a great video and I picked up a few things but the repairs were done off screen so I have no idea what happened there. And I sure don't want to mess up a nice piece of equipment. Thanks for your free video.
great video
The jukebox looks great!! I couldn't help wondering if you guys ever contacted the previous owner, they might like to see the jukebox in all its glory again? I know I would,but I get a bit sentimental with these sorts of things lol.
It ends up being more trouble than you think, LOL Usually we don't know the previous owner or have a way to get back in touch with them.
Hi I’m over in the uk and bought my first jukebox for home in 1980 ( my ex took it with her when we split up 😟) anyway I bought a Rock Ola 445 in about 1992 and it is well past due a service and after watching your clips I feel confident that I can do it so thanks very much 😀 do you have or know of a site to download the service manual for free?
You could also removed that solenoid and somehow manually hold the assembly in the position that the solenoid pulls it to. Then you would not have to worry about the solenoid burning up.
You can't do it that way because it has to release the buttons at the end of each selection. You could probably add a third button or something to press though if you were concerned about it.... press one button add a credit and turn the solenoid on, then press the two selection switches, then it would reset the coil like usual after that.
@@LyonsArcade Should have known a pro like you would have thought of that if it was possible. :)
I'm not a pro but yup I did think of it, lol
@@LyonsArcade Maybe hook a microswitch up to the coin reject button, to add a credit. That would be a nice invisible job on the outside.
I actually have this model. My issue is it jammed a while back we had to manually cycle through. Now it just writes in but wont read out.
Does it spin and try to read out but does it just stop after the write in?
Nope. It reads in and stops.
isnt there supposed to be a cork ring on the turntable to protect the bottom of the record when its set down?
It was a pleather or leather ring, we glued it back on after this video was filmed.
@@LyonsArcade i used to have a very nice 100 record unit, wished i never sold it, but moved and didnt have room for it :( Used to work on Rock-o-La units all the time
It's fun seeing them come back to life, for sure.
How can I ask a question about my 448 rockola jukebox
Seems my review of your business Ronnie has sent 2 people to your shop
Thank you Naytcha Boy
@@LyonsArcade All I did was give your business a great plug :)🔌..glad you got some potential customers out of it..
I have no knowledge about these whatsoever (came by from an Lgr video), but one question:
this machine has to be fully filled all the time? As there seems to be no 'check' on whether or not a record is present. Lovely vids btw. It looks awesome.
It is supposed to be completely filled, but only because the basket is off balance if it's half full.... there is actually a check, when it lays the needle down if there's no record there's a little post that grounds out on a pcb board behind the turntable before the needle goes all the way down and if properly adjusted it cancels the record. If there's a record on there the needle sitting on the record is high enough to keep the post from not grounding out....
Joe's Classic Video Games Cool! thanks for the answer ^^. Didnt think about the weight of the basket, so yes logical that it kinda hás to be full.
HA! Integrated circuitry hell; the thing's audionics about as old-school as you can get!
Very cool to see, just one thing tho, in my youth I could have filled it several times but to day I have no vinyl. Do you think you could fit a USB port : )
Some people put Bluetooth receivers in them!
@@LyonsArcade
Should have seen that coming, why not, best of both worlds.
You can buy vinyl. Thrift stores and yard sales are good sources. You'll find all genres and eras of music. If you bluetooth it, you won't get the authentic jukebox sound. Got to hear a little static/scratches to bring back the memories; otherwise, might as well just play through a bluetooth speaker. jmo BTW, Joe's videos are great help and you might be able to troubleshoot your Rock Ola's problems.
@@tcarol5770 I know, I just said I dont own any now. Used to have a mobile disco back in the 80's, had a box the size of a single bed full, not including 12", or my own personal stuff (punk). Way too bulky for me these days.
Double thumbs up
Brake parts cleaner will dissolve the gunk, then reoil.
I think that would work great, thank you!
Why not disconnect power from solenoid and just rig it in ON position? Like with wire or something.
It has to release after each selection for a second, to let the buttons pop back out. So it has to actually work which causes the whole problem.
Cool
joe´s awesome videos like
Thank you Wilder!
cool!
Thank you Tomy Power!
@@LyonsArcade you're welcome!
@1:45 - It's pronounced, "im-PEE-dance."
Can't you just disconnect the solenoid and then physically rig it into the operation position so that the solenoid never burns out?
It has to release at the end of each selection.
this may sound stupid and may not work,( like gomer pile once said" stupid- stupid- stupid !!!") could you use a "TY-RAP" on the sol. plunger to give "FREE PLAY" that way ,( with the add- subtract credit unit with no credits left ?????) that way the solenoid coil is just going along for the ride( de- energized) just a thought. also, on the amplifier, recapping is a great idea, I always change out the electrolytic caps(multi-section) just for "AGE" reasons. you can tell if they are "LEAKY" by touch method, they should be operating cold, if they are warm or hot, they have got to go!!!. many times you can "REFORM" the caps by using a "VARIAC" and ramp up the line voltage to the amp slowly( watch amp draw when doing this, or use a 200 watt light bulb in series with the primary winding of the power transformer). like you have said many times these units have been setting around for years. slamming 120 volts to the amp may cause "LYTIC CAP FAILURE", also checking resistor values is also a must, the "CARBON COMPOSITION" resistors drift up in value as they "AGE". the tube amps can tolerate "sloppy resistor values", however the solid state amps----- not so much!!!!!
That solenoid coil is a doozy, it has to be pulled in or the buttons won't latch in.... and it has to de energize after the buttons are pressed. You could probably rig up some sort of leaf switch or something that energizes it when the first button is pushed down (so that it holds it down) but whatever you added would have to make sure the usual operation (the coil staying energized, until both buttons are pressed and the selection is registered, then it lets it go and resets the buttons) still works.... I'll bet somebody's figured out some way to do it...
"I SEE, NOW, from my end , I do not have that insight" thanks for responding back, and have a great day!!!!
Scratch filter
I think i will clean up the arm of our jukebox in the clubhouse to. the action will be better after that i think.... for the freeplay , could you maybe clamp /restrict the solenoid and remove the energy from the solenoid?
Unfortunately that won't work because the solenoid has to release after the selection is made. You'd have to add another button to add a credit or something to energize it.
Joe's Classic Video Games aaah okay thank you. Last question can i download the schematic somewhere. Thanks for all the vids👍
Send me your email and I'll send you the schematics, I downloaded them from somewhere but can't remember where. I was actually using the schematics from a 443.
Joe's Classic Video Games its marcel@demofilm.nl
much apreciated