@@alejand5 regarding the kneepad, for this particular knee bar there was a shallow edge which you pushed your knee against. With a too soft knee pad, it would just slide out of place. I guess kind of similar to how soft skin will slide off a small crimp. I do prefer the send knee pads in general for tufas etc when you want more surface area for friction. For the shoes, especially when it comes to toe or heel hooks I find that it can make a big difference depending on the shape of the rock. For example La Sportiva Solution has a wide and solid heelcap, which is great for smeary hooks on aretes or hel-toe camming it into wide slots, whereas it is often too wide for heelhooking on smaller edges. The Mad Rock Drone is famous as a specialist shoe for heelhooking on edges. There are many other alternatives which has different advantages. If I search for beta on a challenging project I often bring several shoes up to the crux to find what works best.
one of the best channels out there!! Keep up the work 😊👌
Thanks a lot Thomas! :D
Men vilken trevlig film!
Tack Jonas! :D
Nice video! But all the music is from south america, not Spain, it's a quite different thing😅
What's the problem with the soft kneepad? Why you couldn't do the kneebar beta with the send?
Also, which is the criteria for using one shoe or the other?
@@alejand5 regarding the kneepad, for this particular knee bar there was a shallow edge which you pushed your knee against. With a too soft knee pad, it would just slide out of place. I guess kind of similar to how soft skin will slide off a small crimp. I do prefer the send knee pads in general for tufas etc when you want more surface area for friction.
For the shoes, especially when it comes to toe or heel hooks I find that it can make a big difference depending on the shape of the rock. For example La Sportiva Solution has a wide and solid heelcap, which is great for smeary hooks on aretes or hel-toe camming it into wide slots, whereas it is often too wide for heelhooking on smaller edges. The Mad Rock Drone is famous as a specialist shoe for heelhooking on edges. There are many other alternatives which has different advantages. If I search for beta on a challenging project I often bring several shoes up to the crux to find what works best.
@@agnesochtobias nice, it's really cool to know these insides, thanks!
Whats the song in 28 minute
Hyd - The One 🙂