I paid £30 for it but I genuinely can't think of a use for it now analogue TV has been switched off and this model doesn't have any actual inputs. Hence my interest in modding it to composite if it's possible.
@@PhilipBryden The original Famicom only had RF out but I saw a Chinese video where a guy just soldered two RCA jacks to the board and it worked with Composite. I wonder if that could be done with your CRT? Of course the difference is soldered to input instead of output.
Perhaps the signal is composite before it goes through modulation to get RF which is basically radio. So adding an connector after the RF tuner board in the TV will let me plug in a composite input.
Excellent job! it's great to see a retro game on a CRT! The Mac Plus had no bleeding resistor so you had to discharge the CRT using a flat head screwdriver connected to ground. If you find the instructions on that discharge it might help you with your CRT.
Discharging the CRT doesn't look too difficult. It's a definite thing to do if I get another one. I was lucky with this one but I don't want to risk it again.
Well done. Probably too late to comment, but you can make a discharge device (not for the CRT final anode) with a 10K 10W wirewound resistor and some cabled meter probes. Needless to say, do not touch the ends of the probes if discharging high voltages. I'm a fan of using a proper EHT probe to discharge CRTs, but the short to chassis approach is sort of ok if you are working on just a few TVs. Note that CRT final anodes can charge up again over several minutes.
You could use it to test and repair retro consoles! I used to repair arcade machine monitors, to discharge the CRT I had a massive flat headed screwdriver with a wire attached to it, an on the other end went onto a crocodile clip that I attached to a grounded point (I used the monitor frame). You put the screwdriver gently under the ‘suction cup’ to touch the metal contacts that go into the CRT. You’d get quite the ‘crack’ sound sometimes! But that was preferable to a whack of the voltage!
I've seen it done by other people, but haven't tried it myself. Too worried about damaging the CRT because I don't kow what is behind that little rubber suction cup thingy.
@@PhilipBryden Oh, there's a hole in the CRT that two little metal prongs under the suction cup hook into it.. they are pretty sturdy and hard to break.
Another great fix it video Philip 👍
Thank you Matthew. Despite being a simple fuse, I enjoyed opening it and seeing something new.
What a star you are Philip, amazing project and a great fix sell it as retro maybe worth a few quid 😊
I paid £30 for it but I genuinely can't think of a use for it now analogue TV has been switched off and this model doesn't have any actual inputs. Hence my interest in modding it to composite if it's possible.
@@PhilipBryden The original Famicom only had RF out but I saw a Chinese video where a guy just soldered two RCA jacks to the board and it worked with Composite. I wonder if that could be done with your CRT? Of course the difference is soldered to input instead of output.
Perhaps the signal is composite before it goes through modulation to get RF which is basically radio. So adding an connector after the RF tuner board in the TV will let me plug in a composite input.
@@PhilipBryden well worth a re-visit, worth a try 😊
@@PhilipBryden mod it Philip you know it makes sense 🙂
Well done Phil, great fix and no shocks 😅
Thanks Mike. I enjoyed making this one and no shocks is a definite bonus too.
Good Man Phil me nerves where shot. Watching that I was for a big bang at some stage.
Top Job all the same.🎉
I promise next time I will short the CRT to save your nerves. There was no skill involved in avoiding a big bang, just beginners luck!
Excellent job! it's great to see a retro game on a CRT! The Mac Plus had no bleeding resistor so you had to discharge the CRT using a flat head screwdriver connected to ground. If you find the instructions on that discharge it might help you with your CRT.
Discharging the CRT doesn't look too difficult. It's a definite thing to do if I get another one. I was lucky with this one but I don't want to risk it again.
Well done. Probably too late to comment, but you can make a discharge device (not for the CRT final anode) with a 10K 10W wirewound resistor and some cabled meter probes. Needless to say, do not touch the ends of the probes if discharging high voltages. I'm a fan of using a proper EHT probe to discharge CRTs, but the short to chassis approach is sort of ok if you are working on just a few TVs. Note that CRT final anodes can charge up again over several minutes.
You could use it to test and repair retro consoles! I used to repair arcade machine monitors, to discharge the CRT I had a massive flat headed screwdriver with a wire attached to it, an on the other end went onto a crocodile clip that I attached to a grounded point (I used the monitor frame). You put the screwdriver gently under the ‘suction cup’ to touch the metal contacts that go into the CRT. You’d get quite the ‘crack’ sound sometimes! But that was preferable to a whack of the voltage!
I've seen it done by other people, but haven't tried it myself. Too worried about damaging the CRT because I don't kow what is behind that little rubber suction cup thingy.
@@PhilipBryden Oh, there's a hole in the CRT that two little metal prongs under the suction cup hook into it.. they are pretty sturdy and hard to break.
That’s a nice looking portable TV by Smasnug from the 1980’s.
I think so too. There's something special about mini CRTs.
tv box with android built into that old TV. It would be nice to see something like that. 😅
If I come across an old CRT like this with a faulty display, it might be cool to install a LCD screen and a retro pi
@@PhilipBryden That would be a good idea!
The screen modules for the Raspberry Pi are sold really cheap from China.
Imagine the new devicies comes with datasheet....must be law for every company in my opinion
You are right. Even if there was some information on test points on the board or other simple diagnostics.