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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- I was chasing this sound and eventually was able to fix this - something the dealerships and repair shops could not diagnose. Long story short, seems the side oil actuator failed, causing oil starvation on the intake camshaft. This started to score the headcover. Had to replace the intake cam, headcover, and oil control valve.
So if you have similar, I'd try and get this diagnosed or changed immediately! Watch more details of the fix at: • 2015 Audi A3 low oil p...
Some Part numbers: 06L-109-257-F, 06L-109-259-A - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.4 (4/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/d3l5rxl5CVo/mqdefault.jpg)
I had this problem on my 2017 golf R, I removed the magnet actuators on the engine to find absolutely nothing wrong with them, so then I made a tool to remove the cam valves which go into the end of the cam, stripped them down on the bench and cleaned them with a solvent, I didn't really find anything wrong with them visually I rebuilt it and this fixed my issue, I can only assume that something was sticking in the valve and just needed a clean up, hope this helps.
What solvent did you use
Any degreaser really elecsol
Are you having any issues?
No issues any more
@@shaun3974 how many miles do you have on yours. I have a 17 golf r and I’m at 85k miles. I think I’m starting to have this problem. On my cold starts I hear different sounds then normal.
I've just done this and it sounds way worse. Just done what you did here and sound dissappears, legend. Thought it was my timing fucking up thankfully not
Read in the description, its basically a bigger $$$ issue from oil starvation. Link of how I fixed it as well.
you replace the electromagnets or the mechanical valves?
It’s the way you torque it down bro it’s suppose to be even with the valves you gotta be on spot with it
Ah this is the EXACT same sound my 2014 GLI with an EA888Mk3 is making. My mechanic was guessing its the timing chain, and i've been preparing to replace the timing chain, but it seems i should change this oil control valve instead? its got 130k miles, and this is the first real engine problem i'm running into. In your other video with the cams, you mentioned a symptom of low oil .. i think i have gone over the line of starting to consume oil now from possibly scoring the cams? It has low oil even cold, so maybe its consuming oil this way now?
I guess my couse of action now will first to replace the oil valve solenoid and do an oil change to get rid of metal and see if it helps?
BTW, I had bad symptoms of irregular feeling timing, especially if i stepped on it a little it would feel like one of the cylinders shut off, and this was right after replacing spark plugs. In this case i figured it was the PCV valve, and got a replacement from autozone. This part however was just the spring loaded valve thats the large cylinder at the top, not the entire PCV assembly that VW sells as one piece... I suspect that I might have to replace the whole thing to let oil flow better than just replacing that top valve piece...
Let me know why you did to repair it. I have the same issue
Same motor, same miles, same year, same issue please let me know what you find out. Dealer said at higher rpm my oil pressure dropped. Could this be the infamous screen detaching and causing irregular oil pressure to the phaser? Which in turn would cause the rattle of the phaser degree stops contacting the walls of the phaser? Im curious to find out the root causes of this. Thanks
Change the intake camshaft is the solution
Its because we drive like grandma and that's why our cars don't work
Did the oil control valve and magnet fix your issue? Or did you have to end up having to replace timing components? I’m waiting for both to come in the mail. My 2014 Jetta 1.8 TSI is doing this and I’m at 260k km so 160k miles…
Looks like this video was made 2 years ago...How has your A3 held up since? Braum seats holding up too?
How long after seized oil actuators did the low oil pressure problem showed up? Because i am h aving exactly the same problem. Newly built engine, oil actuators were completely seized. After getting errors.i have changed them, until one of them seized again resulting in the same noise on the video. After changing it again, problems with oil pressure started, firstly the high oil pressure, but now also the low oil pressure. Could not locate the problem, changed every sensor and valve. Will be checking the camshaft now
Facing the same problem , after changing the camshaft oil actuator does it work for you or not? Please respond
Mine doesnt knock this hard but something similar. Took the magnet and valve out and they look brand new and work fine. Cleaned em and put em back in but still have the same noise. Mine gets worse as the cars gets warm but not this bad just enough for me to hear it
Me too. Just about to change both of the parts instead of cleaning them
Quick fix
What is the repair?
Did it throw any codes for anything?
Just tried and now there's a check engine light
I have a gti mark 7 and I can’t find where this sensor is located
Ive just noticed this on my Audi A3 to.
Very simlar issue but with older engine. Tsi ccta. Same knocking noise from intake side. Found seized vvt actuator/ control valve.. wear on ends of cams and cambridge. Screen was disloged. Im afraid to open the valve cover though ik i should inspect and dig deeper. Actual symptoms: p0341, epc light/hesitation, low oil pressure at idle. 12-15 psi.
I have another video that shows the result... Needed to change intake camshaft and cam cover as it was messed up when opened up from oil starvation. It's been running for about 10k miles no issues now.
hi guys I have exact problem many told me it's not enough oil from the oil pump or oil cooler also it's a vvti timing system the mechanic said it's ntn to worry about but I am stressed I have a leak on that same cam cover right wer the actuator plug is will tht cause oil pressure to drop bcos I do have a problem I can't drive over 4000 rpm. it throws a error code don't drive over 4000 rpm any advice guys wat do I do before I waste money do I change the cam cover or how do u fix that actuator problem
One thing to do is try replacing the cam actuator oil valve with the latest revision.
Best thing to do is replace the intake camshaft and oil actuator valve as the cam adjustment is prob worn and causing extra noise.
Unfortunately they did not do a great job of finding a real full fix for this badly engineered piece(s).
I had 4000 rpm error bit fixed it by cleaning oil pump strainer
Hey
Was the enigne Warm ind the video? Mine does only this Sound when it is cold.. Im going to do what you just did
Would happen the whole time cold, warm, hot. Basically the cams journals were messed up from oil starvation.
I have this noise on my 8p 2.0 TDI. Only in the morning when cold. Any advice ?
Please replace the cam follower tappet in ur high pressure fuel pump, I had same issue in mornings only
I have the GTI Mk6 and when cold it doesn't make any noise but when the engine warms up it starts to make a knock. which may be?
Change the camshaft magnet sensor
On intake camshaft
Did you get help? I also have same problem, when engine is cold the is no ticking sound but when engine warms up it make that funny noise
Clean solenoid with battery and brake cleaner
i get this sound only when i start the car and then it disappears idk what to do
I also do
Mine is doing the same do I just need a new sensor or??
Did u figure out the issue?
Hello, I'm experiencing the same symptoms, and as in the video above, the sound disappeared when I disconnected the connector.
However, I've already replaced the camshaft with the intake and exhaust, but I haven't changed the magnetic and cam bridges. Any advice on what to do?
Change the oil actuator that is installed in the cams under the black magnet. That is usually the cause of why the cams get destroyed. You can also see how I fixed mine after... there is a new oil and camshaft revision parts for the intake that is suppose to address this "known", but not acknowledged issue. th-cam.com/video/9L7IVghYFwo/w-d-xo.html
Hello i have the same sound on a TFSI GEN 3, "diesel noise" at idle only when engine is hot, if i unplug the connector from the electromagnets the sound disappear.In both connectors of electromagnets i have oil.( no error code on VCDS).What to replace first?electromagnets or the mechanical valves which are instaleed in the camshafts?What you replace?
@@aysmen89 check the description for other video that shows that I had to replace to fix. New revision to oil actuators, but also requires new intake camshaft too.
Isn’t that the camshaft adjust and also is it one or 2 I have the s3 8v
There are two, one on each camshaft.
What is the problem?
Check the description
How many pins does the camshaft adjuster have ?
Not sure what you mean by pins.
What does the car neeed got same issue?
you made a video previous to this. please respond because i would liike to know. did you get away with just replacing cams, cambridge, and cradle? or did u need a new cylinder head. i have the exact same wear you had and i dont want to pull my cylinder head. if u got good results with a new valve cover and cams ill do the same.
Measure the cam cover as they are usually drilled for the camshaft. Need to make sure the clearances are good, otherwise you have to replace the whole head which is $$$.
I replaced the camshaft, cover, and actuators which fixed the issue as the oil was squirting out the sides from damage.
@@rcnacura sorry for spamming btw. This car has been a pain... can i measure the clearances myself with plastigauge or is this something for a shop to do. Im doing the work at home because i cant afford shop labor and car isnt under warrenty. Also if clearances are good.. can i just buy a cam cradle?
@@readylucas you'll want to make sure the clearances are within spec, however, not sure what those specs are. Make sure to also check the side to side play. A shop or yourself can do this with calipers or plastigage...
This might help as well... drive.google.com/file/d/0BzlP93wBHC9dMXZUMU5oQW9yc28/view?usp=drivesdk&resourcekey=0-WnWIkexbgdO34_tQKTU_ig
@@rcnacura also my cams have no play from what it feels like. I can see where the cam gets sandwhiched by valve cover and it looks to be very tight. But i have yet to remove the valve cover. Only saw the lobes visible from timing side edit: im not sure if i know what you mean by play. But if it means anything the cams dont move at all up or down left or right dont even budge but they turn free. As i said havent gotten a good look at the bearings though. I gaurrentee theyre scored and dont look too good but there really isnt any play.. so ig its not terrible? Again idk what im talking abt really
Without the knocking noise is that idle normal for a golf r engine?
Yes, normal
I think I’m having the same issues as you ?
My Jetta with the ea888 1.8 is doing the same thing. I’ve got 260k km on it so I’m hoping it’s not timing related… bulletproof engine otherwise
My car is sounding just like that for 1 min then it turns off ???? And suggestions
Any*
@@daleispale420 it could be locking pin the the cam phaser broken, so you got that noise on start up, but once oil warm up and fill in, noise gone
i saw and found most irritating on ea888 were ticking sound. som many thinngs,,,,,, hpfp?? or vvt or,...
damn, you just can’t win
Luckily this is an old video, just wanted to upload to YT to help others since I found the fix (link in description). Cars running well now - though I almost never drive it with the pandemic.
@@rcnacura same....same
What year of car?
This is for the ea888.3 engine
I have this problem bro