BOLTR: $33 Mitutoyo Calipers, too good to be true?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2015
- Sometimes, you just might get what you pay for. I teardown a set of 150mm "Mitutoyo" calipers. We'll see how they work, what's inside and why they are so incredibly cheap.
I appreciate your help to make movies thru your Patreon support!
/ ave - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I work in a small engine factory. When we have an order going to Japan, we have to go OCD mode and make sure everything is PERFECT. If a fuel hose is just a few thou off from being pushed completely on, or the clamp is on at an angle different from the rest, they will give the company hell over it. If an aluminum part has a little bit of flashing left, they throw a tantrum. They expect absolute perfection even in the small details that don't make any difference. Whereas the Western attitude is one of "It will be fine, it doesn't make a difference. Aint pretty but it works!" And that's why people pay big money for Japanese tools!
You blurred out the reflection of your face. That's attention to detail
Quadfly I'm sure someone could capture partial finger prints from video stills, then stitch them together and figure out who he is.....
J DeWitt But there are no records of extra-terrestrial in the police database, so that wouldn't work... You would need to hack into Area 51's database, except it's a self-enclosed network and the more "private" records are stored on paper, not digitally. Unless you can hack paper, but I think that would just mean you're ripping it into smaller pieces which wouldn't help at all... #Kappa
Quadfly No, he does his shop work in the buff. That blur was camouflaging the baby maker.
LordDragox412 CSI's enhancement engine will make quick work of that.
J DeWitt You might think that's funny, but I was watching a video of a game, there was a painting on the wall in the game and I wanted to know what it was. This is from a TH-cam video by the way. Took a screen capture when the painting was as big as possible (only about 400x 300 pixels), then I used Photoshop to correct the angles to make the image square again. Saved it to a file, went to tineye, put the painting in (it wasn't even complete, it was only about half of the painting), and it ACTUALLY gave me results. I was able to use a 400 x 300 pixel spot of a TH-cam video of a painting in a video game to find the name of the actual painting.
Am I the only one who gets a little shiver down my spine any time it is revealed that on the dirt cheapest knockoff parts they use hand-soldering instead of some automated solution? That suggests that the workers are getting paid less than what an automated system would cost even amortized over the thousands/millions of devices they have to churn out.
Dustin Rodriguez Definitely disturbing that that is the best available job for so many.
yes and no... Let's put it this way: there are systems where hand soldering a few components is cheaper even in Germany, where minimum wage is now above €10/h. Automated populating and soldering for 3 components on a sensitive board with chip-on-board blob is not something very cheap to do.
I've been to the industrial cities in China. They need work. It's hard to wrap our heads around but there are so many people. I saw people doing much more meaningless jobs that had to have been made up by the government.
I think you’d be surprised. I know I was. A lot of data cables are hand soldered (wires soldered to pcb “plugs” on each end). And almost all data cables have the individual wires hand “combed” into place before soldering which can be very tedious. It’s just too expensive to tool up for a hot bar, parallel gap resistance welding, or robot solder process unless volumes are extremely high. This is true for cable manufacturing in US, Mexico, China, or Philippines. On the smallest of terminations, very few people have the talent to do this soldering consistently. -former cable manufacturing engineer for a large electronics company
@@seanwilliamodonnell Economy 101: someone suffers for our pleasure
I bought these calipers using Amazon thinking I was getting genuine Mitutoyo. They never really felt right, and I tried finding out if they were genuine. Everything seemed legit until comparing the product literature with the literature on the caliper itself.
I contacted Amazon and I received a full refund and they told me to keep the calipers.
Now I know why my battery is dead when I go to use mine every couple months. Thanks
Love this video! One thing to note is the "absolute" on the Mitutoyo calipers... it actually infers they use an absolute encoder and not a relative [or incremental] encoder. As such it does not need to count/measure when off. The knock-offs I suspect are using an incremental encoder, thus need to keep counting even when "off". An easy test for this is to remove the battery, and adjust the calipers to a known measurement, you'll find that the Mitutoyo's shows the correct reading when power is reapplied. I think you'll find that the knock-offs use an incremental encoder, and this will lose count/position without power. The low power, when off, of the Mitutoyo's is just enough to keep enough brain cells alive to respond to a press of the power button to turn back on, unlike the knock-offs which need to keep alive to keep count to mimic the absolute encoder of the real deal.
The Mitutoyo does have absolute encoding, I have a battery-less Mitu, runs off a photovoltaic, never gets lost no matter how long it's been in the dark and moved.
that's not entirely true. to my knowledge the newer Digimatic Absolute calipers without the on/off-button use a combination of absloute and incremental encoding with reference marks along the rail, that's why you have to slide it a considerable amount of travel to the next reference mark to actually wake it up.
not entirely sure tho if they don't draw any current when in sleep state, a SR44 cell would last for well over 2 years when in daily use.
If that's the case, then the standby power draw of the Mitutoyo is quite big... you don't need that much to respond to a button press.
@@sunside79334 mine last for years as well. They made a purple one many years ago that are same as the cheap ones as ave describes. Perfect for the wife:)
@@TD_YT066 to ok
"Yes I am fully aware starving kids in africa could have eaten these calipers."
lmfao!
u think it's funny.
I'm still laughing....
i really love his humor ^^
It almost ripped me apart.
Africans will probably receive this anyway in the form of land and river fill. I say it's well worth the sacrifice, putting the light on this crap so less people buy it.
Absolutely fascinating. Hard to believe a discussion of calipers could be interesting, but you did it, and I laughed my ass off in the process. Cheers.
That explains why the batteries don't last 5 minutes in my cheap callipers......every day's a school day 👍🏻
I modified my cheapo calipers to use a AA battery in a case Velcro’d on the back along with an on/off slider switch. No more hunting down a fecking button cell battery every few weeks because I forgot to pull the battery.
I'm still using the 8" Mitutoyo calipers I bought when I was at BCIT. They're still going strong and are better quality than the new ones. I paid over $150 for them 24 years ago.
Back in the seventies calculators were just coming to market, but very expensive. A well-to-do classmate, physics, was bragging about his new calculator while the rest of us poor students struggled with our sliderules. Karma is a bitch. While he flew through the final exam he didn't know that weak batteries gave wrong answers, flunking the exam.
lol
Just how your brain can go low on pixies and give wrong awnser too hahahaha
I taught math at university in the early 90's and we didn't allow calculators. Actually had to flunk a student who had one on his lap during a final exam.
@@jimichan7649 that was my experience as a student in the 90’s as well but I doubt the calculators of the 70’s could store formulas and functions as the modern ones can. We had to write them on our watch bands, like Einstein said.......
About 11 years ago After going through 2 cheap calipers in one year. I finally decided to invest in mitutoyo. Still have it. Works like a charm.
I have digital mitutoyos that are over 20 years old and they still work great, they are a good investment
Got some cheapie calipers myself... $20NZ.... surprisingly well finished and fitted and seem very accurate (checked against my genuine Mitutoyo micromater)... It's very easy to get the battery in and out so I take it out when not in use, otherwise it will flatten a battery in a few weeks. Works for me.... For most no-super-accuracy-required measurements I use a dial caliper anyway, which is accurate to 1/10th mm minus (minus a lot if you read the scale carefully.. the grads on the dial are 1/10th... about 4 thou in white man's measure!). The digi ones are OK to half a thou on imperial setting, about the same on metric... so quite good enough for most purposes. I always final check with the mike though, if it's really critical. It's a 0-2" that I got in a closing down sale for about half price about 50 years ago (when I had a high paid job!)... '62 if I remember rightly.... It's right up there with Browne and Sharpe, Starret etc..... dead accurate to .0001" minus throughout the whole range. I hope whoever gets it when I die looks after it..... even a smear from a slightly oily finger shows on the zero.... a beautiful instrument in its own right....
OK,... I guess y'all have gathered I'm a machinery nut.... LOL...
My black and decker soldering iron is from 1959. It was my grandmother's father's. Still have the orig box and manual, only missing one out of the 5 tips. Also have one of these www.old-woodworking-tools.net/images/vintage-sears-sabre-saw-21260604.jpg. Sturdy AF. Had another one like this i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kyoAAOxyKh5SA-ek/s-l300.jpg but I broke it taking it apart :(
I don't know why anyone would use calipers if they needed a measurement within 1/10 of a mm anyways, isn't that why god invented micrometers?
Oh by the way, Mitutoyo is an excellent brand; right up there with Starret, Jones and Shipman etc. Buy with confidence...
xKatjaxPurrsx as a cnc machinist and a cnc programmer, I assure you that a caliper is really usefull in a workshop.
MrVitalic85 I use mine every singe day. Note my previous comment was satire ;-)
At least you got a decent backup case for your real calipers out of the deal. Love your videos and humor, keep inspired to keep creating!
Glad I watched your video.I was going to buy one from Banggood in China but have decided to do as you suggest.
Very interesting demonstration on current drain and how the calipers work.
Thanks for sharing, much appreciated.
I worked for a company that was a contract assembler for Mitsubishi Electric. We built motor control boards that they then sold to Mazak. You are not kidding about fit and finish. These were circuit boards that would most likely never be seen by the end user. Didn't matter. They all had to be picture perfect.
Most important thing I've used my horror freight caliper for (to date) is checking the size of a bolt to grab the right socket.
It was 8mm by the way.
I have some friends who work for Honda here in the states. Apparently one of the last QA steps is some electrostatic/magnetic type test of the paint job. If even one microscopic flaw in the paint is found, the whole car gets crushed. I have to admire Japanese pride in quality.
Makes me happy that there equal to my $9.99 ones from HF. Good enough for home use. Keep my good ones for closer work.
Wow. This is the first video I've seen that gave me legitimate reason to question my cheap-but-effective digital calipers. I don't have the proper equipment to reproduce your results, but I'll definitely be keeping an eye on their readings with respect to their batteries' charge. Thanks!
Best tool comparison videos on TH-cam man. Keep up the good work!
Great video. Entertaining and informative! I always wondered why my cheap-o calipers always eat batteries. Now I know!
Just as I think about purchasing some digital calipers I see this beauty in my suggested! Keep up the good work and the great videos!
Another great review AvE. Yes, the battery drain issue with digital calipers is a drag. I only use them once in a blue moon and they would most often would have dead batteries if I forgot to remove the cell. That's why I splurged and bought Mitutoyo SOLAR powered digital calipers Code # 500-491 Model # CD-S6"CP. They were well over a hundred smakeroos but they are always ready to work when I need them. The instant metric/inch conversion button is also very useful.
in case anyone is curious, fang pi in chinese means fart I believe.
It literally means "release gas." So, yes. fart. In most situations it can probably be most accurately compared to "bullshit" in english slang. For what it's worth, native speakers usually say "pi lah" (gas, and "lah" is just a sound so it doesn't sound so harsh- but the understood meaning is basically the same). Fang pi is something akin to saying bovine extrusions instead of bullshit. So mostly non-native speakers will actually say "fang pi" directly. that being said, I usually prefer the term fang pi... it adds a fair bit of comedic value to whatever point is made :)
Yep 😂😂
I bet he does! Lol
Pi does mean fart you are correct! AvE tell this man what he's won.....
I like the blurring of your reflection
Nice video. I grew up in Ireland so when it changed to metric we had to know both systems. The Machine building work that I do requires that you work in both systems. In building work, I use meters and mm's ...... less mistakes.
Found some 6" 500-196 used locally for $20 with a missing battery cover. Found the cover for $1.50 and now I have a working genuine mitutoyo calipers for around the house. Used some calibrated Jo blocks from work and they are spot on. For measuring bolts and nuts and other odds and ends around the house I'm satisfied.
Very interesting! I always wondered my my cheap unknown brand of calipers at home here go through batteries all the time when I barely use them. Where my Mitutoyo set at work seems to last a year or more and I used them everyday.
It's like you are inside my mind - answering the questions I ponder to myself.
***** Could well be - it's noisy in there...
I love your videos because you not only show why something is junk, you take the time to explain how they actually work too. I always assumed digital calipers were taking mechanical readings, now I know. And knowing is half the battle, as they say.
THANK YOU! I was wondering if I needed to clean my cheap $10 calipers until you came up on an autoplay. I changed the battery and now it's working without jumping ... :D Happy days = I'll just take the battery out when not in use
I never knew they kept positional value when off. I always close mine and hit reset when I switch it on before I use it. But hey I work with wood, and unless you're +Matthias Wandel, the fractions don't matter much. :)
just the best caliper review i saw (for a knockout) awesome as always ave
In shops I always used Mito dial calipers. Now at home I have a six inch pair of Dial off brand and a couple eight inch pair of HarborFrieght digital. Mainly use the HarborFrieght ones setting up tables saws and laying off woodworking projects. Personally never had any problems with the cheap digital calipers but never used where it really mattered. Always wanted a set of digital mics but never wanted bad enough to lay down the $$$$
Someone contact Dave from EEVBlog and ask he sends AvE a uCurrent. I'm sure he'd gladly send AvE one! Not me though, I'm much too lazy.
Your videos have helped reaffirm that I made the right choice paying buying brand new Mitutoyo 12" digital calipers.
Love this vid. I think the issue about drawing current while off is because of the push-button power design. I have a small 5W radio that had the same setup. I ended up replacing the push-button with a small SPST that physically opened the circuit. No more battery drain on an emergency radio for when I forget to cycle the batteries out...
The lengths some companies go through in order to make a buck! I'm surprised they can even get away with it. Thanks for the heads up.
The 200mm Mitutoyo Digimatic that I bought upteen years ago has only needed it's battery replaced once. I seem to recall that it has a low battery warning on the display, but it's been such a long time since I replaced the battery that I can't remember. I worry more about the battery leaking it's guts into my caliper than having to replace the battery.
would love to see a break down of the shars calipers. Especially the accuracy at different voltages.
after doing some looking into I bought the I gaging absolute origin calipers on ebay for my throw in my bag while my nice ones are safe in my toolbox. gotta say some pretty nice calipers for the price, feel great and I trust them after putting them through their paces against some standards.
I have just started watching your videos and have enjoyed them so far .. I have a blue-point set of calipers that will eat a battery in two days or less and after watching this I will have to check the amp draw . thank for the info ..
You know ever since the 10$ caliper video I ran out and bought myself a 100$ caliper, best decision in a while. Keep releasing tool reviews I love em'. At my next eBay purchase I'll keep my hand away from the sticky rice!
I don't even have a garage or tools or a need for calipers, but these caliper videos have given a burning desire to own a pair of the knock offs. Just so I have them.
The problem with inaccuracy on weak batteries is one that comes with many cheap electronic measuring devices.
Without knowing the battery condition, this renders every measurement entirely worthless.
BTW: removing the battery is only a halfway decent solution, handling these with bare ( aka sweaty ) hands increases
self discharge on button cells...
Thanks a lot for the review so others do not fall for these fake tools! Keep up the good work!
I got the t-shirt today here in Ireland,;-),
thanks for all the videos man
Got mine off Ali Express
Similar fit and finish as yours. Mine has the correct lock screw, but lacks the little "p" on the back plate. The printing quality on mine is def substandard.
Checking against my Etalon mic standards, this thing is right on!
Ima gonna clean up the edges and use it. Paid $35!
As a block 1 machinist looking for tools thanks dude. Saved me some head ache
Thanks for your testing, very helpful. I got curious and measured the current draw of my cheap calipers (one bought from Aldi / Hofer in Austria, one from Tchibo / Eduscho) that I paid 10€ each for.
Aldi had 8 microamps with display off, 11 with display on. Tchibo had 9 microamps with display off, 10 with display on. Both of these are the type that don't need to be recalibrated after turning on again (since they are actually turned on all the time, the on/off key only turns the display on or off, not the actually measuring system).
Compared to the ~17 μA you measured on the fake Mitutoyo, the generic calipers are actually more energy efficient, so even less of a reason to risk buying a knockoff Mitutoyo.
The Tchibo one, bought around 2012, has always felt surprisingly smooth and worked reliably most of the time. However, at some points it got inconsistent when the battery cap was inserted (values would skip randomly sometimes), for some strange reason taking out the cap (so that the battery top was visible) improved that for a while. I suspect that the aluminium battery contacts don't have the best lifespan.
My next caliper purchase will for sure be a Mitutoyo. Less frustration, less time spent fiddling with cheap calipers and getting them to work somehow is worth the price for me.
Amazing video, and hella entertaining to watch!
Just a heads up. The signature may be printed on the original paperwork. Bought mine last month it was printed. The paperclips were neatly lined so that's a good point.
Read somewhere recently that they changed the process at some point. Someone noticed it on their original ones and confirmed with the company. Just don't take my word for it. Seemed that Mitutoyo was pretty fast to reply so you can check it yourself.
Bought a set of left handers for cheap as they have their uses but the finish on these were like they had been linished with 36 grit emery cloth ! The jaws when closed had more of a gap between them than linda lovelace could ever achieve !
Had a play with them and got them to the usable stage as i only use them to get me near the measurement i want but what a pain in the ass!
Have a set of mitzi's and a set of starrett ( probably made in china anyhow ) the mitutoyo unit is heaps smoother .
I have a few other cheap sets and that was the only gripe i had was they chewed batteries , often wondered about fitting avery small slide switch or maybe a set of small contacts inside that could be opened by pushing a small plastic pin in between them to disconnect the battery ?
revisting here. absolut gold content.
AVE,
Grizzly sells a $30 caliper. 6", it's blue and comes in a case. I've used mine for many years, it's very smooth and when used properly just as accurate as my dials. If your interested I would recommend reviewing it. It's smoother than my Starrett Dial caliper.
At work my boss has some $10 Harbor Freight calipers...although they have a thumb wheel they are so rough I can't use them.
Still using the same Mitutoyo 6" dial calipers bought new in 1975. My newest acquisition is a 1964 female purchased used in 78'.
Today I saw some old mitutoyo stuff at work, one big box that was a large series of lets say calibrated thickness leaves (dont know the actual real name nor use for them), two micrometers and two digital calipers. One micrometer has a set "bits". I was told they are used to help the micrometer measure in different ways. Again, dont know the name. and Also 1-Meter Standard made of glass (this one not sure if was made by mitutoyo). Not a tool guy, but this things feel like jewels, what a quality. Some boxes are even made of wood.
Thanks. The end of the video helped me understand a little why mine cheapo unit reads half the distance 😂
Good to take it apart right away, instead of ending up with false reading on a project. Nice video
Nice find AvE. If you can get past the current draw, the el cheapo's aren't too shitty for the occasional drop & smash.
Thanks.
2:16 You sure this is a Chinese knockoff? Looks Japanese to me, on account of the pixelated gland end.
I think you just saved the African children from a crappy lunch...
bkupiec Or a happy crunch.
Well played Mr. Moore
bkupiec i
why digital callipers in the first place. When I apprenticed mechanical work, 6 month before Universität, I had to buy a mechanical callipers. The price was Discounted, but high enough for the boy that had recently finished high School. The educating master explained why, when you buy it, people will take care of it.
I still keep mine in good condition after nearly 38 years. I über felt the need for a digital mitutoyo. The mechanical one dies it all.
This is why I just use Dial calipers and vernier micrometers. I do the the micrometers with the rotating ticker numbers too. Digital will always let you down in the long run.
I've got a set of $9 Horror Fright calipers that seem to measure pretty accurately. I'll just have to keep the battery fresh.
I scored two Starrett and two Mits at a yard sale about 15 years ago... widow was moving and she was liquidating to say the least. Man they were MINT! Original boxes and they were never used.
I have been using Some from enco, Fowler brand. In my line of work I am super tough on calipers, dropping crushing, laying machines on top of. I cant bring myself to pay the 150-300 two or three times a year. Would love to hear your thoughts on the 30 dollar pair of fowlers from enco.
Bought my 6” Mitutoyo Calipers from Victor Machinery Exchange in 2000 for $99.90. Still keep the receipt and papers behind the foam in the lid of the case. Don’t use them that much, but the batteries hardly ever go bad.
I watched the entirety of that long ass ad for you AvE, seriously though I did.
Real mitutoyo runs of 1.55V (fully charged is 1.57V). Battery low indicator shows up at 1.40V (but not 1.41). And it switches off at 1.30V (but not 1.31). At no point display fades or show wrong reading.
Standby current is 0.96 microamps. When operating it is about 1.29microamps no matter how fast you move or if set inc mode or whatever
Good info Chris, much enjoyed. $30?? No bueno!
799..... Made in USA! Good calipers. Mines going on 4 years old now and no problems. Use them daily.
yes they are ....(Made in USA) smooth as butter
Abom79 I'm waiting for him to start chucking those communist calipers into a dartboard. I'm sure that he would have a dozen stuck in by now. I have a nice pair of Starrett digital calipers. But, I only use them on critical stuff. Most of the time, I have a pair of the ChiCom brand laying around, in the glove compartment of my car, getting beat up, trashed.... I don't cry when they die..... I laugh at them ($10).
WAVETUBE84 lol....i use the cheap ones make straight marks
@Salvatore Korbin haaa wonk
Hrm, I just received a pair of el-cheapo Mitutoyo calipers. Model numbers are the same as shown in the video (CD-6" CSX) however the code numbers are different. (Mine's 500-196-20 vs AvE's 500-196-30). In ABS mode they DO NOT maintain the measurement between power cycles. In INC mode they will maintain the reading.
$150 Mitutoyo Caliper standby current: 1.8uA. My $10 noname-brand non-absolutematic calipers: 0.5uA (since they don't bother to track movement while off). Given how infrequently I use my calipers, I think I'm happy to re-zero on power-on to get my 3x battery life for $140 cheaper (disclaimer: battery self-discharge rate may dominate; battery life may not be 3x). But, excellent video! Very interesting - fascinating how the mid-price calipers have by far the worst standby current, even compared to the super-cheap ones.
Side note: my calipers consume 18uA while on; as if I have the same chip as the knockoff Mitutoyo -- but since it turns itself off when off, I think that's fine.
Great tool review as usual. Now how about a review of the dial indicators like Harbor Freight and Starrett etc. I use them just because I don't run out of batteries when I have none in the middle of a job. Seems a good reason to avoid digitals all together. Bring back the slide rule!!!! I am tired of having to be a warehouse for the unending variety of batteries which go bad without even being used. Wheeww, I feel better now.
Just been in the shop for a look The one I have is real It should be for what it cost same battery for 2 years used every day John
My grandpa gave me his old Sears Craftsman dial calipers and his Mitutoyo dial indicator with the magnetic stand today.
Thanks for this enlightening info, i never had a clue about this. cheers! skookum info
The battery never dies in my Mititoyo Dial Caliper. Been running perfect for like 25 years.
In my last Workshop I had built myself a degausser from an old stereo-set: I took a 3-way speaker-set with fat old shitty cardboard-membranes and stripped off the shieldings. Then I mouted them around a wooden wine-box (one litre-sized bottle) and connected it to the amp. Gave it some minutes of ac/dc -to be taken literally and that was actually it. Worked well for wrenches and screwdrivers. Degaussing is about making noise anyway. Could either take a Hammer or make some magnetic noise.
Very slick, blurring the reflection of your face at 2:15. Love your vids by the way!
Nice video dude. should do a commentary about standard non digital calipers too.
I bought a pair of mitutoyo calipers from a pawn shop an out a year ago, paid about 115 usd for them. I'm pretty sure I have the knockoff version your reviewing. Live and learn!
Haha, just right on the personal bias bit. ...um, in my opinion. And lovingly disassembled with just the right touch, being what they are.
I have watched many of your videos. Excellent work. Curious about one thing. What is your occupation?
My Mitutoyo Digimatic - £2 from a car boot sale.
I have had it years, never switch it off, and have never needed to replace the battery.
I found a guy at the local market selling old tools. He had 3 sets of calipers, two crappy chinese digital ones, and an ancient mitutoyo dial caliper for £15! So I bought it. Case was covered in some awful shmoo, I suspect they had come from some industrial environement. They must be at least 30 years old. Either way, they still work beautifully, agrees with the micrometer at least!
They feel so well made, ready to last another few decades. You dont get that with cheaply made tools.
I never thought I would laugh at a Caliper Review but I was Laughing so Hard 😂
Did you do the Mitutoyo drain test in another video?....informative video, thanks.
Ever heard of vernier calipers? It's a rhetorical question; I know you've heard of vernier calipers. Vernier calipers do not need a battery. There are no electronic components to make the tool unusable, should they crap out. And they aren't any less accurate than dial calipers or digital calipers. Unless you are making repeated measurements, all day, where reading the vernier scale might become wearisome after the umpteenth reading, then vernier calipers will serve you just as well. I bought my Mitutoyo vernier calipers about 40 years ago, and paid about $35 for them at that time. I was actually able to read the vernier scale 40 years ago. At that time, I didn't realize that 40 years later I would need help from a magnifying glass.
Ave man how do you understand how everything works? Do you research prior to filming or do you just know everything?
I tried several digital callipers before even from some decent brands. I've just never gotten along with them so I keep using analog for now. But I always told myself that if I'm going to get some digital calipers they'll be from mitutoyo.
My mom's a machinists and she has a pair of mitutoyo calipers that are 26 years old she got them right before I was born and still uses them every day at work
HF dial calipers. $10 They are accurate to within about 2.5 thou and I can come back in a thousand years and the battery won't have died.
I've had no issues with mine. Only complaint is that it's not metric.
+Desu-chan Sugoi the ones I got were in both metric and imperial. I find I like dial calipers. Sure, it's probably true that you can read the digital readout faster but reading the dial makes you feel like a real engineer.
Geahk Burchill
You have one of their air compressors? How are their air tools? I could use a die grinder but so far all my air tools are craftsman but craftsman went crappy within the past few years.
That air impact hammer with the 10,000rpm like the nascar guys use sure temps me even though I already own one that works just fine (and I don't use it that much anyway).
The only thing I had trouble with recently is there HVLP paint gun and it might have been my fault because I bought it years ago and when I got around to using it one of the hoses was so rotted in just broke in half trying to unpack it. But that's a cheap thing to replace -- more of a time hassle than anything else, really.
+BikingMNViking if u need to seal your hose connections I use a plumbers dope that is rated for 3000 psi steam fittings. can leave my compressor on for days and it doesn't run or leak. that hissing sound drives me crazy. I have stopped in the middle of projects to make it stop. hoses are the better Napa grade.
JEREMY WHITMORE
I used the white teflon tape... I realized storebought is lousy so I got some military grade stuff which is twice as thick 5 mils.... the hoses leak at the ends in the storebought crimps and I am really not sure what to do about the water in the first place.
I used to be good about emptying it regularly but got sick of crawling under it. I did buy a item that is supposed to sort of "spit out" the water at the end of every cycle but never put it on.
I also have the large professsional water remover, the kind the paint folks use, but am unsure exactly how to hook it up because if I hook it up higher there will likely still be water down in the tank. Both are HF units.
So do I have to put the AC on something up higher and run the Painter's Water Remover down lower?
Now I get the problem. I should just solder up a big brass or copper tube and let the water collect in there -- it won't rust/corrode(will it under 90PSI pressure?) and if it does the pipe would be cheaper and more replaceable than the compressor's main tank.
For now my med problems are such an issue I shut the whole thing off.
What about oversealing the ends of the storebought hoses with that "self sealing" silicone tape? (I also wonder about this new miracle stuff "Flex Seal" )
Also the water collects in the ends of the hoses and the hose end (esp the one outside) leaks -- that is the only hiss I ever had problems with. Even when I worked back in Amoco Gas Station the manager had me replacing the outside one every other day or so while the other one was probably inside drying out.
Hi i was just watching you destroy a cheap caliper yesterday, and was going to wright you to make a vid on how they work, but now i want to know what happens when they get wet? (cooling water) and what have they don to make the ip67 calipers??
Oh, I use the originals of both of these at work. they are great .
What the heck did he just say?!!
I like the video.
It was very informative.
He has a unique style of delivery.
It’s kind of refreshing, actually.
I've got an old pair of hand me down Sylvac Swiss calipers, I'd be interested to see the difference between these and Japanese ones! They're still choochin after many years of manhandling. No thumb wheel though! Great video though, love seeing what makes them tick!
Sometimes its hard, but you just gotta keep your chin up and find other fun junk to play with.
Speaking of toys, thanks sooo much for the OBDII reader tip in previous vid. Just bought a car and saved a truckload of Australian Rupees repairing it myself. You're a legend. ;D
Oh my yes. Though European cars and their repair come with a guaranteed minimum extortion no matter the country in which they're purchased!
Lucky for me I have a very active ebay account and there's an auto wrecker not far for parts!
I have $15 mechanical calipers where the scale goes down to 25um (1 thou), although you can only read +-2 thou with your eyes. No low voltage risks, it's stainless, the only gripe is that it lacks the thumb wheel and the stopping screw. But it's a budget model of a local brand and it's not fake.
I still got my Mitutoyo 200mm Very Near Calipers I got in 1986 for AU$120, which in those days was a lot of money. Used them for the first time in 10 years just the other day... ;)
Finally I know why I have to leave the battery out of my cheap calipers or it goes flat. I liked the physical build of the $30 way more than the $10. No bow, no grinding material in the sliding mechanism and much nicer finish. I'd prefer the $100 plus pair of course but if priorities are elsewhere next time I buy a pair, $30 still sounds OK to me.
Perhaps the most accurate item here was your rant on "bias". Well said my friend!