I agree, if you can afford it, it's best to have a cheap set and a quality set. I have both and they each have their place in my shop. The cheap set from HF are amazingly accurate, but if I drop them or they happen to get a little weld spatter on them, , it's no big deal. The Mitutoyo have a much better action and feel, but I only use them for very critical jobs. One thing you did not mention is that the battery holder on the HF caliper is really cheap and easily damaged when changing batteries. The Mitutoyo battery holder is of much higher quality. Thanks for the review. Always enjoy our vids!
Before I retired, I ran a laboratory that calibrated vernier callipers as one of our services. We bought a range of cheap vernier callipers and put them over the gauge blocks. They all passed easily. We're they as smooth and nice to operate as the high end units, no. But they did the job just as well.
They are talking about battery operated digital calipers here, not vernier calipers, of course you know the difference if you worked at a calibration place
FYI, Amazon commingles all it's inventory, so it doesn't matter which seller you pick. You may still get a counterfeit, even if you buy from "Amazon" or "Mitutoyo".
Typical of the more affordable digitals is that the on/off button only functions for the display. I found out over the years and don't leave a battery in one for weeks or more. That said, I'm still happier using a dial caliper except for a few instances when reloading where mics are preferred (case head expansion, neck thickness, bullets, etc) to measure in tenths vs half a thou. Mitu mics, HFT calipers. 🙂
I bought an inexpensive I-Gaging brand off amazon like yours about 10yrs ago for $25 that has held up with occasional use. I think i'm on my second battery. Since I don't use them very often (maybe a dozen times a year) I pull the battery drawer out a fraction (just enough not to turn on) and then put it back in the case.
I wish digital calipers had an OFF switch that was really off, or lower drain while idle. It's ridiculous just getting 3-4 uses from each battery. My Mitutoyo micrometer battery lasts for years, so it can be done.
Mitutoyo is still the gold standard for those that work in a shop. Some like the brown and sharpe too. If I gotta use the saw though, I pull out the Spi’s!
If using digital frequently, keeping the battery fresh helps….but if you get them out rarely…you are better off with non battery calipers. Don’t like vernier scales? Just get a dial caliper - just as accurate, easier to read and no batts to change!
Totally agree with that. I can go a while without using my dial calliper and then use it lots. With the digital calliper when not used for a while, the time I do need it the battery is dead!
I have the Pittsburg caliper and it has performed perfectly (at least to my needs) for nearly 10 years…changing the battery twice in that time. I believe most diy’ers and hobbyists can get by well with Harbor Freight tools. I don’t turn my nose down on cheap tools. In fact, I have a “cheap” Craftsman router that has been permanently mounted upside down in a router table for over thirty years…chips, dust, and what have you falling down into it. It still works fine. I paid like $30 for it. If it dies, then I can buy several more for the price of an upscale Porter Cable router, which I also have.
Over many years ive seen The more expensive ones tend to have better rejection of contamination throwing them off. I believe they use a magnetic internal gauge to know where they are placed , and contam or water getting under the digital readout can cause them to go haywire. Far less likely to happen with the good pair. I can also +1 the battery life being far better on pricer units. They also tend to zero much more reliably, like you saw. Thanks for the comparisons.
Thanks for the unbiased review. I was going to purchase the cheap version but my wife bought me a mid range set. I also have an analog set ( if that is the right term ) that clip in my pocket for when I’m out and about.
Nice comparison video. I never had a set of digital calibers, so maybe it doesn't matter since you can zero them, but I was taught never to leave vernier calibers in the closed position due to thermal expansion and contraction could "spring" them. Maybe it is because I learned that from my dad who was an aircraft and missile engineer from the early- to mid-20th century, and 80-90-year-old calibers aren't as good as they are nowadays? But it probably can't hurt to leave them cracked slightly whatever the case.
That probably was for the Dial ones. The digital ones like these don't have springs. And they use a PCB behind the label to measure, that's why it's so cheap to make the accurate.
@@Splarkszter Perhaps. I use only vernier calipers, however. (Hand me downs from my Dad.) And when I was little, the way he told me to not leave them closed (micrometers as well) was because thermal expansion could spring them.
I use an iGaging absolute zero digital caliper from Amazon. I think they were more like $30-40, but they've been super reliable. One thing I really like about them, is that they use a CR2025 battery, and it doesn't seem to go bad when they go un-used for months at a time. They are also very repeatable in their zero point. I've never used Mitutoyo or compared mine to them, so I can't vouch for accuracy. I'm usually using them for things like figuring out bolt sizes or measuring lengths where 0.1mm is plenty of precision.
Another vote here for igaging! You don't discuss quality of grinding of the jaws and that is good on these. Smoothness is also excellent. Of the "cheapos" these are my go to by far However they are very accurate, but constantly they are less accurate than my mitoroyos... I have now 3 pairs of the igaging which I use for general workshop use. I've other cheapo brands which are all playing up so used only in desperation. Then the mitu are brought out for near coolant or precise checking (caveat that they are nowhere near as accurate as a micrometer)
The battery number is actually the size of the battery. The first 2 numbers are the diameter in mm: the second 2 numbers are the battery thickness in decimal mm...in this case 2.5mm
Yeah, when you can by X amount of cheaper versions Vs one of the expensive ones, it's a no brainer really. Don't get me wrong, sure it's nice to have the best version of anything but I certainly can't afford to do that.
@@Splarkszter I just got another less than £10 one off Banggood, one reviewer compared it to their Mitutoyos when it comes to quality. I'm impressed so far, it also displays inches in fractions, that's the main reason why I got it, I'm use to mm really.
I have both. In a wider test range of 10 samples, 3 x each at random, my Neiko Calipers were more consistent. But,, both were still in advertised tolerance after averaged total of samples. Also I haven't had anything strange going on with my Neikos either as you have. I have 2, 6" & 12". As you've stated,, both brands have their place. Cheers
I have owned a lot of inexpensive digital calipers. Many have been from Harbor Freight and some of them still work, but a year and a half ago I finally decided to buy a new digital caliper. The one issue that I was most interested in avoiding was a caliper using SR44 batteries. The batteries simply do not last very long. I instead bought calipers that used a 2032 battery and the set I bought still works with the original battery. I have also been impressed that the quality of the caliper I purchased on Amazon ( Kynup brand) is so good. And I also own Mitutoyo mics which I like very much. So, whatever caliper you decide to buy Don't buy one that uses a SR44 battery.
I have a cheap one that I bought because it also does fractions, which is useful when trying to put the drill bits I’ve taken out back. They can be hard to read if they’re small or the numbers are rubbed off from use because bit manufacturers insist in putting the info where the chuck grips rather than the area above that, below the flutes. Anyway. The unit has been working well for three years. The battery lasts a year, or so, and they give an extra. All good. Now the problem is that it’s consistently off be 0.002” to the plus side every time and I can’t adjust it. My others are all Brown and Sharpe, which I’m fond of. But really, never use calipers when you need accuracy. For example,e, Mititoyo claims plus or minus 0.0015” for most models. Buy one for $350 and up from them and it’s plus or minus 0.0012”. Everyone else is about the same. But you make get one that’s better than the rated accuracy. Use a micrometer if accuracy is needed.
Brilliant video and thanks so much for showing us some clever ways of using the calipers. I feel that if you spend the money they will last you a lifetime and you can hand them down too! My dial Mitutoyos must be really old but work beautifully. I found the cheap digital calipers I have always seem to have a flat battery when I come to them! I worked in the jungle for a while and it was very clear that students could not read a vernier scale (no batteries required). BTW love the way you say 'vernier' to sound like veneer. I guess it is like the way you guys say solder without the 'd'. Thanks again for a fabulous and informative video!
My Dad swore by Starrett but as a Japanophile who does Japanese carpentry, I've always bought Mitutoyo. For $150 you get a solid reliable 24/7 caliper. I get the idea of cheap versions and as you said, if your on site, don't risk you best tools.
Good comparison video, thank you for making good content. I have bought 5 pairs of the VINCA brand you had in the intro (Four 6" (2 given as gifts) and one 12") I've have had my 3 pairs for just over 3 years and use the atleast one of the 6" almost daily. They seem to be some of the "highest" quality cheap calipers, defiantly are smoother then the Pittsburg. Other than eating a battery every 6mo or so they are solid so far. Hope mine dont die soon as yours were the same age haha.
Thankyou, this was packed with some great information. I have been looking for a pair for the house so i can take quick measurements for modeling parts for 3d printing. good to know the cheaper pair of neikos are nearly just as accurate at a fraction of the price
If you want accuracy, use a micrometer. This coming from a guy with Mitutoyu, Starrett, Tesa Brown and Sharpe tools measuring up to 6 foot diameter. My "go to" vernier is one with a mechanical dial because the battery is never dead and I only use a vernier to get things close.
As others have mentioned, I also have been using the Neiko for a few years and the included batteries were both junk. Replacement quality batteries has made them last, well that battery hasn't died yet.
When I need to make a replacement part and I am taking measurements off the part, I generally use my ten year old Pittsburg calipers. Off drawings or prints I use my Starrett calipers and gauges.
The Mitutoyo digitals I got in the mid 90s are still going strong. But then, the Mitutoyo Vernier's I got in 1980 are just as accurate and have never needed a battery replaced.
I still have my old Mitutoyo calipers that are over 30 years old and they are still accurate and working. They were expensive back in the day but well worth the money.
I did an apprenticeship in an engineering workshop using Mitutoyo and Moore & Wright micrometers and callipers, so therefore I am biased towards them for their quality, but I understand what you’re saying when it comes to cost vs occasional use in less demanding projects where tolerances are not crucial.
I know that might dial calipers lack the memory and zero reset function of the digital calipers, but mine are 30+ years old and have yet to be disabled by a dead battery. And I haven’t bought the tool a couple times over in battery costs. Yes, it takes a couple seconds longer to read, but if you use them regularly the read time difference is minor.
I agree. That is how I use calipers. You can also better feel when the jaws are squarely on the part if you squeeze the jaws onto the part or gauge block.
I have my Mitutoyo dial calipers that I bought 30 plus years ago, and they are still going strong. Accurate to 1 thou and never need batteries. I have a cheap digital and don’t trust it for accuracy. It’s good enough for rough measurements on a lathe though, and the comparator function is handy, but I’d never trust it for the Final Cut. Micrometer is necessary if you want it accurate.
I'm a believer in buying the cheapest version of any new tool and then finding out how much I really use something. If I use it a lot and the tool breaks, then I'll go by the best one I can find, no half measures (lol). If it doesn't break but does the job, I saved some money. I have a beautiful collection snap-ons, mixed with Harbor freight tools, but they all work great. I keep my cheap calipers in their box, battery removed, I've had them for many years, still work perfectly.
If you use them for a living then Mitutoyo is the way to go. The IP 67 coolant proof 6" with the depth rod instead of the flat depth stick is the best Mitutoyo I've tried.
For the LONGEST time Mitutoyo was the "Gold" standard and in many cases it still is when ULTRA precision matters. But let's be honest, how many of us are doing that? Do you REALLY care about .003 ~ .005 tolerance variation? Making a REALLY GOOD digital calipers is no longer rocket science, unless your work deal with ULTRA precision, you probably don't need a Mitutoyo. The *MOST* important feature of a Digital Caliper is "auto off" function. This one will save your life.
If you're doing serious precision machining, quality (consistent over time) matters. I have a used dial Mitutoyo, and a Starrett vernier (was my Dad's) but for the kind of stuff I normally do the Pittsburgh has been fully adequate. I get a couple of years out of a batter (I by 357 cells by the pack, because some many products use them). When you buy 357 type cells be SURE to get the silver version NOT the lithium. Costs a bit more but more long lasting and much better voltage consistency.
I have a pair of General calipers I have been using for the last few years. They look a lot like the Pittsburg ones. I have never changed the battery but I only use them a few times a week. Recently, the Zero button stopped working so I have to turn them on and then off to zero. This is annoying, but I am not sure I ready to replace them just yet.
I just bought another Mitutoyo 150mm. I also have some cheapish digitals, which also aren't bad. Just stay away from the bargain basement vernier which can be rough ground from soft steel. It's hard to tell awful stuff from good by internet photos. I'd only buy cheap if I have a chance to handle it prior to purchase.
Good video. I like having a nice set for when I need them, and 4 or 5 sacrificial cheap ones that I have in various places. Also, @clough42 has a good video on how to identify counterfeit Mitutoyo calipers.
If you don't buy Mitutoyo calipers off an authorized dealer they're probably fakes. If you got a great deal on them then they're definitely fakes. If the battery doesn't last at least 5 years they're fakes.
I've had an older set of Pittsburghs for longer than I can remember, rarely ever changing the battery. Bought a backup cheap pair on Amazon and the battery often needs replaced.
I think having 2 sets of digital calipers is best. I have my Mitutoyos & I got some husky brand calipers from Home Depot for $20. So I have my nice ones & ones that I can beat the crap out of if I’m working with something that’s not ideal for a precision instrument. The Husky ones aren’t bad though, one feature I really like is it’ll show inches as a fraction or a decimal so that’s one thing my cheap ones have that the Mitutoyos don’t.
One thing to be careful of is buying knockoffs. If you see high-end brands selling at about half retail, rest assured they are knockoffs. The internals are the exact same unit used in all the cheap calipers, so they're charging $70 or so for $20 calipers with a somewhat better case and box. James has an episode covering this in detail on his Clough42 channel, uplaoded Aug 2022.
I got the Igauge calipers which are way smoother and more accurate than the cheap ones. They do go through batteries quicker than Mitutoyos but for $35 I’m pretty happy.
The cheap ones don't actually turn off - it's more of a stand-by mode that is constantly checking if the calipers have been opened so that it can automatically turn the screen back on. I take the battery out before storing them so that it still works when I actually need it.
I have a set of Mitutoyos which I think are the best of all worlds, they have a dial on them instead of an LCD. This sounds crazy but there's no battery and no messing about with little buttons, so they are still available today. I used to have a cheap digital set. They went insane like yours did
I have a Mitutoyo analog too, but that pesky gear rack has to be cleaned constantly. And the large crystal is very delicate, and has cracks from normal mishaps, which isn't a problem with the digitals.
thanks brother for the info there its real helpful ... right now am in scenario that i have to go to one of them and i find what i got thank you in advance .. and hope you release a video that you explain a techniques on how to measuring distance between centers spacing ... thank you so much for it again
If you get the HF/Nieko types and use them occasionally, just remove the battery after use. There is a place for it in the box. A dead battery when you need a tool is the only real frustration point. There is a difference in battery draining on the cheap ones as they all seem to use the same guts and continue to drain the battery significantly when off and never last a year. Once you do that the battery lasts for years. If you do buy an expensive one and use it occasionally, the battery can last a few years but it can also leak so you have to decide based on how often you use it if you want to risk it. For home use more than 99% of us would not have a need for better tolerances. A durable mid option would be nice. Igaging absolute zero may be it but it's $50 and not a real brand name that you can trust not to break so why spend twice as much when all you need to do is remove a battery.
I mostly have dial calipers, i like them, imo id rather have a cheap set of dials than a cheap set of digitals, no batteries to replace every week like the cheap digitals but i mostly use them in a dusty woodshop and those teensy weeensy rack and pinion do not appreciate all the dust i let them bathe in. Got some mitutoyos recently so im still putting it through its paces but i have to remind myself im allowed to use "the nice tool" lol seems like it will be fine in my shop, it being more expensive also keeps it a lot cleaner because i put it back in its case I think if im being honest vernier calipers and some reading glasses might be the best fit for me and my shop Recently dropped a dual dial metric and imperial and it skipped a tooth and had a little damage to the rack, after cleaning that up in 10 mins, i spent 2 hours messing with the pointers and making watchmakers tools to get them clocked properly again, They were just ever so slightly off by the time i ran out of patience but its basically within the quantum realm for calipers, so i think itll be fine.
very important, you forgot to measure with the inside caliper, dept caliper and with the head of the caliuper ( dont know how you call the last one. cheers ben
I've always used Mitutoyo. I figure if I need something to be precisely measured enough that I use a caliper, I wanna use as accurate of a caliper as I can afford. There used to be a few Facebook groups that were all about calipers. Caliper nerds
I often wonder if the calipers that physically look the same are the exact same calipers with a different company logo? I remember buying and RCBS set 25 years ago for $69. It seemed everyone sells the exact same “physically” looking caliper for $9.99 on up other than a different manufacturer logo on the slide. The one that failed on you is $17 on Amazon. RCBS makes one that looks exactly the same for $89! I would guess they are the exact same calipers.
I've had the HF 6 inch digital for about 6 years and haven't had any problems. I've had to replace the battery 3 or 4 times but I can buy a lot of batteries for 120$
You're going to have to buy a lot of batteries. I have two different caliper models from Harbor Freight. The silver ones and the black ones. The black ones are way better.
@@cbmech2563 How often do you have to zero it out? I have to zero my Mitutoyos every time I change the battery in them. But that's it. I don't even check them anymore. They're always zeroed. I do it so infrequently I actually have to look up how to do it. Because I forget. The cheap ones I check them every time I use them. Because they're not always zeroed. Well, I don't even keep a cheap pair with a battery in it anymore. The one cheap pair always loses zero. The other kinda holds it. It's supposed to. Doesn't always. I just checked zero on the Mitus, dead nuts. It never varies. I don't even bother anymore.
If you want a valid comparison, do an R&R on both and observe results. That way you can introduce user error for a better comparison. I ran a metrology & test lab for 15 years, and I always ordered Mitutoyo for non abusive environments and off brand for abusive areas. No need to spend money replacing a Mitutoyo when a cheap brand is available to be abused. Just keep a record of the R&R if anyone inquires about accuracy & stability of your measurement system. If they last long enough, always perform calibration verification once a year, month or even once a week as necessary to ensure validity of measurements.
I gave up on the digital calipers. Every time I went to use it I had to change the battery. Probably because I would use it infrequently. I went with an analog caliper instead. Good enough for what I need it for.
I got fed a Horrid Fate ad before this. If you dont like batteries get a dial. (my eyes are WAY too shot for vernier!) The cheap plastic HF calipers dont kill the battery and if im not machining a rotovator confabulater i dont care that they are t going to give me to 1/10ths
AVE showed that the genuine mitutoyo draw about 1/4th the battery power even when on vs the chinese knockoffs that have absolute function when they are on. and the chinese knockoffs that have absolute function draw twice the current when they are OFF vs the mitutoyo when it is on. So in short you could leave the mitutoyo on all year vs the chinese one which you could have in storage (off) and you would still have to replace the battery two times as much on the chinese knockoff. Finally, having worked as an engineer in the automotive sector, if your caliper does not have absoulte positioning it technically cannot hold any calibration. It is not acceptable in production to turn on a caliper, clear the dust from the jaws, and hit "zero". The absolute function will show you there is dust in the jaws because it was set to a gage block at some interval. You have no idea of accuracy with the chinese caliper unless you keep a ring gage to check inner diameter accuracy AND you keep a gage block to check linear measurements. Few do that every time they pick up the chinese caliper....
I only have the cheaper versions, I have 3 different ones actually, they are not all the same when it comes to draining their battery or their functions though. One of them doesn't drain it's battery and it's display comes on just by opening the jaws, no need to press the on button first.
I bought a cheap dial caliper from Harbor freight because I'm anti battery whenever possible. Just seems like the batteries are always dead. It didn't last long.
Strangely I own the exact same brands you do: Neiko, Vinca, and Mitutoyo. I own the longer Vinca calipers for bigger measurements. As you will learn, the Neiko are total junk. I am sorry you bought them. My display is partially broken and the battery is always dead. The battery door likes to come off. The Vinca's I use when I need longer measurements but seem to hold up better. And of course, the Mitutoyo calipers are the best. Sometimes I even scribe with them but when i do i die a little. :D
The cheapos (from HF) tend to run down batteries, which then leak and ruin the tool. I learned they will turn themselves on if moved at all. I used to remove the battery after each use. I now store them with case open, and glance at them often. I probably use dial calipers more often, and have my verier calipers in reserve.
I bought a cheap pair of TackLife which were just janky. I gave them a bad review and they sent me a better pair. I use that one when I need something fairly precise. It lives above my worktable. At my woodworking workbench I use a set of venier calipers. They are plenty precise for what I need.
On my hardly used Mitutoyo the battery contact tab broke off when fitting the battery, no undue force used and the reason for fitting the battery is because the batteries would run down if I leave it in the instrument😒
There is only one version of the Mitutoyo that's worthwhile, I've had mine for over 20 years. AND.... that is the solar powered version. I've never had to change a battery ever. TBH I also have a Chinese native brand, bought to check tooling in China it was one tenth the price. It's better quality and more accurate than the Mitutoyo when temperature affects measurements, but it chews through batteries, so not all that enjoyable to use.
As far as I am concerned all digital calipers that run on a battery are trash. My Mitutoyo dial calipers and others are more reliable, just as accurate, and you will never find one nonoperational in the box with a dead battery. A shop I worked in had a digital caliper that most every time you went to use it it was dead and if you didn't have a spare battery you were dead in the water. I have a Mitutoyo that I purchased back in the early 70's. It still works today as good as it when it was new. Can't say the same for the foam lining in the case which I had to rip out years ago but you can't have everything. If you can't read a dial on a caliper how are you going to read a dial on anything else and all of those 4 digit digital readouts the last digit isn't worth much anyway.
Low probability that this is helpful, but you might check the battery contacts for traces of corrosion on your old cheap calipers. Cleaning those contacts might just fix it. Of course if that sensor track is worn, then...never mind.
Iv noticed the cheaper ones the battery goes dead even if not use for 6 months..the other ones battery doesn't die..something to think about..after use have to take battery out or it will die on u when need to use again..that happens 100% of the time..even with the carbon fiber plastic ones
Cheap calipers are ok if you have a reference block and check them regularly. But just throw the damn things away when they start to get shitty, because they will, eventually. There isn't enough moisture sealing and the circuit boards start to get flaky which makes the readings erratic.
Your Neiko was probably a return, I bought that exact one and it came with a plastic tab you had to pull out to engage the battery for first time usage
You showed the problem with cheap calipers early in the video. They eat batteries. When you want them to work they're dead. I don't know what kind of deal with the Devil Mitutoyo struck but battery life is darn near shelf life of the cell. The cheap calipers I have I'm in the habit of removing the batteries now when I'm not using them.
Another argument for cheap calipers - I travel with mine in car i want to do some designing on the road. I'm forgetful and it would break my heart to lose a $200 set
As user of cheap tool over two decades, worst part of cheap calibers is repeatebility, measure and you got different result every time. If doing precise work its annoying. And there is diffence between cheap ones, others are ok, others are better. And someday even 0,1mm precise plastic one has its place (measuring magnetic parts or probably electricity in parts)
Mitutoyo is for sure not worth it for the random diy Jimmy.. I would say for most others its still not worth it, but if you are a Huge production place, where this kind of money is nothing, why not get them. If nothing else, it will scream Pro production place for people looking from the outside. It will never help the worker itself, thats for sure. The absolute function isnt Mitutoyo only, many cheap amazon Calipers has this aswell.. I got one from Amazon UK a good time before brexit, a 300mm version with absolute function, it feels super nice, and i can open it hard and close it hard, and its never off.. I changed the battery i think 4 times, so they for sure eat more power in idle mode then the Mitutoyo, but how much is a battery ? i payed like 25 euro for the 300mm Calipers, i dont use them every day, but like 4-5 days a week i guess.. how much is 300mm Mitutoyo ? ;) I am from Denmark, sorry for my bad English. :D EDIT: So sorry, i didnt mean 300mm, i ment 200mm.. SORRY..
i have a husky caliper, it's about as good as i would expect for the use it gets. I'm not exactly easy on it... I've left it out of it's case now for a few weeks for... god knows what reason, as i try to remember to clean up the garage... again. but they aren't as accurate as I would like, but that could be because I'm not using them correctly, don't actually understand how they work, or some other issue with just being a generalized moron when it comes to some of these things. they work for the purpose of "finding the distance of these 2 holes i need to drill to mount this thing" and that's about it they get used for. I like them but again, they feel cheep, with the resolution of a ocean freighter. so idk.
I agree, if you can afford it, it's best to have a cheap set and a quality set. I have both and they each have their place in my shop. The cheap set from HF are amazingly accurate, but if I drop them or they happen to get a little weld spatter on them, , it's no big deal. The Mitutoyo have a much better action and feel, but I only use them for very critical jobs. One thing you did not mention is that the battery holder on the HF caliper is really cheap and easily damaged when changing batteries. The Mitutoyo battery holder is of much higher quality. Thanks for the review. Always enjoy our vids!
I mostly use my Mitutoyos. But if I know I'm going to be roughing it with the instrument then I break out a cheap pair.
Before I retired, I ran a laboratory that calibrated vernier callipers as one of our services. We bought a range of cheap vernier callipers and put them over the gauge blocks. They all passed easily. We're they as smooth and nice to operate as the high end units, no. But they did the job just as well.
thank you for sharing
I think the way vernier calipers work is fascinating. Really simple, yet really smart as well.
They are talking about battery operated digital calipers here, not vernier calipers,
of course you know the difference if you worked at a calibration place
they are called the same thing where I come from... @@ed_cetera
FYI, Amazon commingles all it's inventory, so it doesn't matter which seller you pick. You may still get a counterfeit, even if you buy from "Amazon" or "Mitutoyo".
Typical of the more affordable digitals is that the on/off button only functions for the display. I found out over the years and don't leave a battery in one for weeks or more. That said, I'm still happier using a dial caliper except for a few instances when reloading where mics are preferred (case head expansion, neck thickness, bullets, etc) to measure in tenths vs half a thou. Mitu mics, HFT calipers. 🙂
I bought an inexpensive I-Gaging brand off amazon like yours about 10yrs ago for $25 that has held up with occasional use. I think i'm on my second battery. Since I don't use them very often (maybe a dozen times a year) I pull the battery drawer out a fraction (just enough not to turn on) and then put it back in the case.
I wish digital calipers had an OFF switch that was really off, or lower drain while idle. It's ridiculous just getting 3-4 uses from each battery. My Mitutoyo micrometer battery lasts for years, so it can be done.
Mitutoyo is still the gold standard for those that work in a shop. Some like the brown and sharpe too. If I gotta use the saw though, I pull out the Spi’s!
If using digital frequently, keeping the battery fresh helps….but if you get them out rarely…you are better off with non battery calipers. Don’t like vernier scales? Just get a dial caliper - just as accurate, easier to read and no batts to change!
Totally agree with that. I can go a while without using my dial calliper and then use it lots. With the digital calliper when not used for a while, the time I do need it the battery is dead!
I have the Pittsburg caliper and it has performed perfectly (at least to my needs) for nearly 10 years…changing the battery twice in that time. I believe most diy’ers and hobbyists can get by well with Harbor Freight tools. I don’t turn my nose down on cheap tools. In fact, I have a “cheap” Craftsman router that has been permanently mounted upside down in a router table for over thirty years…chips, dust, and what have you falling down into it. It still works fine. I paid like $30 for it. If it dies, then I can buy several more for the price of an upscale Porter Cable router, which I also have.
I have two different Pittsburg calipers and they both eat batteries like they're candy. They wouldn't go 5 months let alone 5 years.
Over many years ive seen The more expensive ones tend to have better rejection of contamination throwing them off. I believe they use a magnetic internal gauge to know where they are placed , and contam or water getting under the digital readout can cause them to go haywire. Far less likely to happen with the good pair. I can also +1 the battery life being far better on pricer units. They also tend to zero much more reliably, like you saw. Thanks for the comparisons.
Thanks for the unbiased review. I was going to purchase the cheap version but my wife bought me a mid range set. I also have an analog set ( if that is the right term ) that clip in my pocket for when I’m out and about.
I've bought several used US gov't surplus made in Germany Mahr MarCal calipers, which are incredible quality. IRC, they were around $40.
I love surplus deals when you can find them!
I am a beginner and my tolerances are so bad I use a folding wooden carpenters rule
Nice comparison video. I never had a set of digital calibers, so maybe it doesn't matter since you can zero them, but I was taught never to leave vernier calibers in the closed position due to thermal expansion and contraction could "spring" them. Maybe it is because I learned that from my dad who was an aircraft and missile engineer from the early- to mid-20th century, and 80-90-year-old calibers aren't as good as they are nowadays? But it probably can't hurt to leave them cracked slightly whatever the case.
That probably was for the Dial ones.
The digital ones like these don't have springs. And they use a PCB behind the label to measure, that's why it's so cheap to make the accurate.
@@Splarkszter Perhaps. I use only vernier calipers, however. (Hand me downs from my Dad.) And when I was little, the way he told me to not leave them closed (micrometers as well) was because thermal expansion could spring them.
@@v2gbob He probably was a smart person. I would believe his reasoning.
I use an iGaging absolute zero digital caliper from Amazon. I think they were more like $30-40, but they've been super reliable. One thing I really like about them, is that they use a CR2025 battery, and it doesn't seem to go bad when they go un-used for months at a time. They are also very repeatable in their zero point. I've never used Mitutoyo or compared mine to them, so I can't vouch for accuracy. I'm usually using them for things like figuring out bolt sizes or measuring lengths where 0.1mm is plenty of precision.
I have a few iGaging products and they work pretty good for the price.
Another vote here for igaging! You don't discuss quality of grinding of the jaws and that is good on these. Smoothness is also excellent. Of the "cheapos" these are my go to by far
However they are very accurate, but constantly they are less accurate than my mitoroyos... I have now 3 pairs of the igaging which I use for general workshop use. I've other cheapo brands which are all playing up so used only in desperation. Then the mitu are brought out for near coolant or precise checking (caveat that they are nowhere near as accurate as a micrometer)
The battery number is actually the size of the battery. The first 2 numbers are the diameter in mm: the second 2 numbers are the battery thickness in decimal mm...in this case 2.5mm
More measurement content and tips would be great Tim!
At $140 you can buy 8-10 of the cheaper ones. I been using both Vernier types and
10 years for me.
Yeah, when you can by X amount of cheaper versions Vs one of the expensive ones, it's a no brainer really. Don't get me wrong, sure it's nice to have the best version of anything but I certainly can't afford to do that.
@@steveclark.. Exactly.
If it's for hobby or not critical, don't worry about the Mitutoyos.
@@Splarkszter I just got another less than £10 one off Banggood, one reviewer compared it to their Mitutoyos when it comes to quality. I'm impressed so far, it also displays inches in fractions, that's the main reason why I got it, I'm use to mm really.
Would love to see more tips and information on measurement. Thanks for a great channel!
I love learning new measurement techniques. it's always nice to see how others do things
I have both. In a wider test range of 10 samples, 3 x each at random, my Neiko Calipers were more consistent. But,, both were still in advertised tolerance after averaged total of samples. Also I haven't had anything strange going on with my Neikos either as you have. I have 2, 6" & 12". As you've stated,, both brands have their place.
Cheers
I have owned a lot of inexpensive digital calipers. Many have been from Harbor Freight and some of them still work, but a year and a half ago I finally decided to buy a new digital caliper. The one issue that I was most interested in avoiding was a caliper using SR44 batteries. The batteries simply do not last very long. I instead bought calipers that used a 2032 battery and the set I bought still works with the original battery. I have also been impressed that the quality of the caliper I purchased on Amazon ( Kynup brand) is so good. And I also own Mitutoyo mics which I like very much. So, whatever caliper you decide to buy Don't buy one that uses a SR44 battery.
I have a cheap one that I bought because it also does fractions, which is useful when trying to put the drill bits I’ve taken out back. They can be hard to read if they’re small or the numbers are rubbed off from use because bit manufacturers insist in putting the info where the chuck grips rather than the area above that, below the flutes. Anyway. The unit has been working well for three years. The battery lasts a year, or so, and they give an extra. All good. Now the problem is that it’s consistently off be 0.002” to the plus side every time and I can’t adjust it. My others are all Brown and Sharpe, which I’m fond of. But really, never use calipers when you need accuracy. For example,e, Mititoyo claims plus or minus 0.0015” for most models. Buy one for $350 and up from them and it’s plus or minus 0.0012”. Everyone else is about the same. But you make get one that’s better than the rated accuracy. Use a micrometer if accuracy is needed.
I agree, a mic is the definitely the way to go when you need to be accurate.
Brilliant video and thanks so much for showing us some clever ways of using the calipers. I feel that if you spend the money they will last you a lifetime and you can hand them down too! My dial Mitutoyos must be really old but work beautifully. I found the cheap digital calipers I have always seem to have a flat battery when I come to them! I worked in the jungle for a while and it was very clear that students could not read a vernier scale (no batteries required). BTW love the way you say 'vernier' to sound like veneer. I guess it is like the way you guys say solder without the 'd'. Thanks again for a fabulous and informative video!
Calipers are essential. I went with super cheap Amazon. Glad to have em.
My Dad swore by Starrett but as a Japanophile who does Japanese carpentry, I've always bought Mitutoyo. For $150 you get a solid reliable 24/7 caliper. I get the idea of cheap versions and as you said, if your on site, don't risk you best tools.
Good comparison video, thank you for making good content. I have bought 5 pairs of the VINCA brand you had in the intro (Four 6" (2 given as gifts) and one 12") I've have had my 3 pairs for just over 3 years and use the atleast one of the 6" almost daily. They seem to be some of the "highest" quality cheap calipers, defiantly are smoother then the Pittsburg. Other than eating a battery every 6mo or so they are solid so far. Hope mine dont die soon as yours were the same age haha.
Thankyou, this was packed with some great information. I have been looking for a pair for the house so i can take quick measurements for modeling parts for 3d printing. good to know the cheaper pair of neikos are nearly just as accurate at a fraction of the price
If you want accuracy, use a micrometer. This coming from a guy with Mitutoyu, Starrett, Tesa Brown and Sharpe tools measuring up to 6 foot diameter. My "go to" vernier is one with a mechanical dial because the battery is never dead and I only use a vernier to get things close.
As others have mentioned, I also have been using the Neiko for a few years and the included batteries were both junk. Replacement quality batteries has made them last, well that battery hasn't died yet.
When I need to make a replacement part and I am taking measurements off the part, I generally use my ten year old Pittsburg calipers. Off drawings or prints I use my Starrett calipers and gauges.
The Mitutoyo digitals I got in the mid 90s are still going strong. But then, the Mitutoyo Vernier's I got in 1980 are just as accurate and have never needed a battery replaced.
I still have my old Mitutoyo calipers that are over 30 years old and they are still accurate and working. They were expensive back in the day but well worth the money.
Great presentation ..
Thanks for the educational knowledge ..
I did an apprenticeship in an engineering workshop using Mitutoyo and Moore & Wright micrometers and callipers, so therefore I am biased towards them for their quality, but I understand what you’re saying when it comes to cost vs occasional use in less demanding projects where tolerances are not crucial.
I know that might dial calipers lack the memory and zero reset function of the digital calipers, but mine are 30+ years old and have yet to be disabled by a dead battery. And I haven’t bought the tool a couple times over in battery costs. Yes, it takes a couple seconds longer to read, but if you use them regularly the read time difference is minor.
I would think the repeatability would be better if you squeezed the jaws rather than pushing the wheel.
I agree. That is how I use calipers. You can also better feel when the jaws are squarely on the part if you squeeze the jaws onto the part or gauge block.
Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a try.
I have my Mitutoyo dial calipers that I bought 30 plus years ago, and they are still going strong. Accurate to 1 thou and never need batteries. I have a cheap digital and don’t trust it for accuracy. It’s good enough for rough measurements on a lathe though, and the comparator function is handy, but I’d never trust it for the Final Cut. Micrometer is necessary if you want it accurate.
I'm a believer in buying the cheapest version of any new tool and then finding out how much I really use something. If I use it a lot and the tool breaks, then I'll go by the best one I can find, no half measures (lol). If it doesn't break but does the job, I saved some money. I have a beautiful collection snap-ons, mixed with Harbor freight tools, but they all work great. I keep my cheap calipers in their box, battery removed, I've had them for many years, still work perfectly.
If you use them for a living then Mitutoyo is the way to go. The IP 67 coolant proof 6" with the depth rod instead of the flat depth stick is the best Mitutoyo I've tried.
For the LONGEST time Mitutoyo was the "Gold" standard and in many cases it still is when ULTRA precision matters. But let's be honest, how many of us are doing that? Do you REALLY care about .003 ~ .005 tolerance variation? Making a REALLY GOOD digital calipers is no longer rocket science, unless your work deal with ULTRA precision, you probably don't need a Mitutoyo. The *MOST* important feature of a Digital Caliper is "auto off" function. This one will save your life.
If you're doing serious precision machining, quality (consistent over time) matters. I have a used dial Mitutoyo, and a Starrett vernier (was my Dad's) but for the kind of stuff I normally do the Pittsburgh has been fully adequate. I get a couple of years out of a batter (I by 357 cells by the pack, because some many products use them).
When you buy 357 type cells be SURE to get the silver version NOT the lithium. Costs a bit more but more long lasting and much better voltage consistency.
I have a pair of General calipers I have been using for the last few years. They look a lot like the Pittsburg ones. I have never changed the battery but I only use them a few times a week. Recently, the Zero button stopped working so I have to turn them on and then off to zero. This is annoying, but I am not sure I ready to replace them just yet.
I just bought another Mitutoyo 150mm. I also have some cheapish digitals, which also aren't bad. Just stay away from the bargain basement vernier which can be rough ground from soft steel. It's hard to tell awful stuff from good by internet photos. I'd only buy cheap if I have a chance to handle it prior to purchase.
Good video. I like having a nice set for when I need them, and 4 or 5 sacrificial cheap ones that I have in various places. Also, @clough42 has a good video on how to identify counterfeit Mitutoyo calipers.
If you don't buy Mitutoyo calipers off an authorized dealer they're probably fakes. If you got a great deal on them then they're definitely fakes. If the battery doesn't last at least 5 years they're fakes.
I've had an older set of Pittsburghs for longer than I can remember, rarely ever changing the battery. Bought a backup cheap pair on Amazon and the battery often needs replaced.
I use a 6" and a 12" Mitutoyo Dial Calipers. My buddy was looking for batteries for his digital mitutoyo. I looked at him and said " I told ya!"
I think having 2 sets of digital calipers is best. I have my Mitutoyos & I got some husky brand calipers from Home Depot for $20. So I have my nice ones & ones that I can beat the crap out of if I’m working with something that’s not ideal for a precision instrument. The Husky ones aren’t bad though, one feature I really like is it’ll show inches as a fraction or a decimal so that’s one thing my cheap ones have that the Mitutoyos don’t.
One thing to be careful of is buying knockoffs. If you see high-end brands selling at about half retail, rest assured they are knockoffs. The internals are the exact same unit used in all the cheap calipers, so they're charging $70 or so for $20 calipers with a somewhat better case and box.
James has an episode covering this in detail on his Clough42 channel, uplaoded Aug 2022.
I got the Igauge calipers which are way smoother and more accurate than the cheap ones. They do go through batteries quicker than Mitutoyos but for $35 I’m pretty happy.
The cheap ones don't actually turn off - it's more of a stand-by mode that is constantly checking if the calipers have been opened so that it can automatically turn the screen back on. I take the battery out before storing them so that it still works when I actually need it.
I have a set of Mitutoyos which I think are the best of all worlds, they have a dial on them instead of an LCD. This sounds crazy but there's no battery and no messing about with little buttons, so they are still available today. I used to have a cheap digital set. They went insane like yours did
I have a Mitutoyo analog too, but that pesky gear rack has to be cleaned constantly. And the large crystal is very delicate, and has cracks from normal mishaps, which isn't a problem with the digitals.
thanks brother for the info there its real helpful ... right now am in scenario that i have to go to one of them and i find what i got thank you in advance .. and hope you release a video that you explain a techniques on how to measuring distance between centers spacing ... thank you so much for it again
I have the same setup. I have the good ones available, but keep a cheap pair on my desk all of the time.
pretty good video, i like the objective numbers
If you get the HF/Nieko types and use them occasionally, just remove the battery after use. There is a place for it in the box. A dead battery when you need a tool is the only real frustration point. There is a difference in battery draining on the cheap ones as they all seem to use the same guts and continue to drain the battery significantly when off and never last a year. Once you do that the battery lasts for years. If you do buy an expensive one and use it occasionally, the battery can last a few years but it can also leak so you have to decide based on how often you use it if you want to risk it. For home use more than 99% of us would not have a need for better tolerances. A durable mid option would be nice. Igaging absolute zero may be it but it's $50 and not a real brand name that you can trust not to break so why spend twice as much when all you need to do is remove a battery.
I mostly have dial calipers, i like them, imo id rather have a cheap set of dials than a cheap set of digitals, no batteries to replace every week like the cheap digitals but i mostly use them in a dusty woodshop and those teensy weeensy rack and pinion do not appreciate all the dust i let them bathe in.
Got some mitutoyos recently so im still putting it through its paces but i have to remind myself im allowed to use "the nice tool" lol seems like it will be fine in my shop, it being more expensive also keeps it a lot cleaner because i put it back in its case
I think if im being honest vernier calipers and some reading glasses might be the best fit for me and my shop
Recently dropped a dual dial metric and imperial and it skipped a tooth and had a little damage to the rack, after cleaning that up in 10 mins, i spent 2 hours messing with the pointers and making watchmakers tools to get them clocked properly again, They were just ever so slightly off by the time i ran out of patience but its basically within the quantum realm for calipers, so i think itll be fine.
The red branded one, i got it. Have it a few years now but if i use it 10 times thats alot. Gud to knw i can continue with it
very important, you forgot to measure with the inside caliper, dept caliper and with the head of the caliuper ( dont know how you call the last one.
cheers
ben
I've always used Mitutoyo. I figure if I need something to be precisely measured enough that I use a caliper, I wanna use as accurate of a caliper as I can afford. There used to be a few Facebook groups that were all about calipers. Caliper nerds
I often wonder if the calipers that physically look the same are the exact same calipers with a different company logo? I remember buying and RCBS set 25 years ago for $69. It seemed everyone sells the exact same “physically” looking caliper for $9.99 on up other than a different manufacturer logo on the slide. The one that failed on you is $17 on Amazon. RCBS makes one that looks exactly the same for $89! I would guess they are the exact same calipers.
i keep battery out of my cheep calipers but my Mitutoyo last for 2 years. and work good for over 20 years
I've had the HF 6 inch digital for about 6 years and haven't had any problems. I've had to replace the battery 3 or 4 times but I can buy a lot of batteries for 120$
You're going to have to buy a lot of batteries. I have two different caliper models from Harbor Freight. The silver ones and the black ones. The black ones are way better.
@@1pcfred in 6 years I've replaced the battery 3 or 4 times. Compared to 140$, I'll deal with it. And the display is stable.
@@cbmech2563 How often do you have to zero it out? I have to zero my Mitutoyos every time I change the battery in them. But that's it. I don't even check them anymore. They're always zeroed. I do it so infrequently I actually have to look up how to do it. Because I forget. The cheap ones I check them every time I use them. Because they're not always zeroed. Well, I don't even keep a cheap pair with a battery in it anymore. The one cheap pair always loses zero. The other kinda holds it. It's supposed to. Doesn't always. I just checked zero on the Mitus, dead nuts. It never varies. I don't even bother anymore.
If you want a valid comparison, do an R&R on both and observe results. That way you can introduce user error for a better comparison. I ran a metrology & test lab for 15 years, and I always ordered Mitutoyo for non abusive environments and off brand for abusive areas. No need to spend money replacing a Mitutoyo when a cheap brand is available to be abused. Just keep a record of the R&R if anyone inquires about accuracy & stability of your measurement system. If they last long enough, always perform calibration verification once a year, month or even once a week as necessary to ensure validity of measurements.
I gave up on the digital calipers. Every time I went to use it I had to change the battery. Probably because I would use it infrequently. I went with an analog caliper instead. Good enough for what I need it for.
I got fed a Horrid Fate ad before this.
If you dont like batteries get a dial. (my eyes are WAY too shot for vernier!)
The cheap plastic HF calipers dont kill the battery and if im not machining a rotovator confabulater i dont care that they are t going to give me to 1/10ths
AVE showed that the genuine mitutoyo draw about 1/4th the battery power even when on vs the chinese knockoffs that have absolute function when they are on. and the chinese knockoffs that have absolute function draw twice the current when they are OFF vs the mitutoyo when it is on. So in short you could leave the mitutoyo on all year vs the chinese one which you could have in storage (off) and you would still have to replace the battery two times as much on the chinese knockoff. Finally, having worked as an engineer in the automotive sector, if your caliper does not have absoulte positioning it technically cannot hold any calibration. It is not acceptable in production to turn on a caliper, clear the dust from the jaws, and hit "zero". The absolute function will show you there is dust in the jaws because it was set to a gage block at some interval. You have no idea of accuracy with the chinese caliper unless you keep a ring gage to check inner diameter accuracy AND you keep a gage block to check linear measurements. Few do that every time they pick up the chinese caliper....
The electronics in my 8" mitutoyo's died. They were treated with kid gloves. Big $$$ to replace now, I'm just going with Neiko's
Repeatability is totally accurate with Mitutoyo and I don't have to reset the zero every time. 😊
$2.99 Temu Calipers for the win!
I just looked it up, their cheapest pair is $0.26...they look pretty cheap, probably worth spending $2.99 for the upgraded ones.
I only have the cheaper versions, I have 3 different ones actually, they are not all the same when it comes to draining their battery or their functions though. One of them doesn't drain it's battery and it's display comes on just by opening the jaws, no need to press the on button first.
I have a set of Craftsman vernier calipers from West Germany that were my Dad's 👍
I bought a cheap dial caliper from Harbor freight because I'm anti battery whenever possible. Just seems like the batteries are always dead. It didn't last long.
Strangely I own the exact same brands you do: Neiko, Vinca, and Mitutoyo. I own the longer Vinca calipers for bigger measurements. As you will learn, the Neiko are total junk. I am sorry you bought them. My display is partially broken and the battery is always dead. The battery door likes to come off. The Vinca's I use when I need longer measurements but seem to hold up better. And of course, the Mitutoyo calipers are the best. Sometimes I even scribe with them but when i do i die a little. :D
Clean the glass scale on your old set with Q-tip & rubbing alcohol.. Should take care of it...
The cheapos (from HF) tend to run down batteries, which then leak and ruin the tool. I learned they will turn themselves on if moved at all. I used to remove the battery after each use. I now store them with case open, and glance at them often. I probably use dial calipers more often, and have my verier calipers in reserve.
I bought a cheap pair of TackLife which were just janky. I gave them a bad review and they sent me a better pair. I use that one when I need something fairly precise. It lives above my worktable. At my woodworking workbench I use a set of venier calipers. They are plenty precise for what I need.
The lack of physical markings on the more expensive pair is kinda sad. If your battery dies you’re shit out of luck until you replace it
I prefer a dial caliper. No batteries and much easier to use than a vernier.
On my hardly used Mitutoyo the battery contact tab broke off when fitting the battery, no undue force used and the reason for fitting the battery is because the batteries would run down if I leave it in the instrument😒
There is only one version of the Mitutoyo that's worthwhile, I've had mine for over 20 years. AND.... that is the solar powered version. I've never had to change a battery ever. TBH I also have a Chinese native brand, bought to check tooling in China it was one tenth the price. It's better quality and more accurate than the Mitutoyo when temperature affects measurements, but it chews through batteries, so not all that enjoyable to use.
As far as I am concerned all digital calipers that run on a battery are trash. My Mitutoyo dial calipers and others are more reliable, just as accurate, and you will never find one nonoperational in the box with a dead battery. A shop I worked in had a digital caliper that most every time you went to use it it was dead and if you didn't have a spare battery you were dead in the water. I have a Mitutoyo that I purchased back in the early 70's. It still works today as good as it when it was new. Can't say the same for the foam lining in the case which I had to rip out years ago but you can't have everything. If you can't read a dial on a caliper how are you going to read a dial on anything else and all of those 4 digit digital readouts the last digit isn't worth much anyway.
I have that neiko one, battery does die even when not on,
Low probability that this is helpful, but you might check the battery contacts for traces of corrosion on your old cheap calipers. Cleaning those contacts might just fix it. Of course if that sensor track is worn, then...never mind.
I'd go with Starrett dial type
Biggest advantage of Mitutoyo : when they are off, they are off. Batteries don’t drain.
Iv noticed the cheaper ones the battery goes dead even if not use for 6 months..the other ones battery doesn't die..something to think about..after use have to take battery out or it will die on u when need to use again..that happens 100% of the time..even with the carbon fiber plastic ones
Cheap calipers are ok if you have a reference block and check them regularly. But just throw the damn things away when they start to get shitty, because they will, eventually. There isn't enough moisture sealing and the circuit boards start to get flaky which makes the readings erratic.
Just by testing a 6” caliper at .1”. 3” and 6” agaist a standard should be all you need to ascertain its accuracy.
I have a sort of expensive German Caliper and 5 or six cheap ones the German one will last for ever since I never use it, scared I may damage it.
Your Neiko was probably a return, I bought that exact one and it came with a plastic tab you had to pull out to engage the battery for first time usage
You showed the problem with cheap calipers early in the video. They eat batteries. When you want them to work they're dead. I don't know what kind of deal with the Devil Mitutoyo struck but battery life is darn near shelf life of the cell. The cheap calipers I have I'm in the habit of removing the batteries now when I'm not using them.
You never measure centers of 2 holes if you have to estimate them. You use the front edges of those holes. It's the same distance as center to center.
The Neiko needs the screws on the slide adjusted.
I don't think you should use calipers (digital, dial, vernier) for accuracy of more that .1mm or 4 thousands of an inch.
Another argument for cheap calipers - I travel with mine in car i want to do some designing on the road. I'm forgetful and it would break my heart to lose a $200 set
Mine went bad over Winter in a garage wouldnt have happened if i put them in a thick plastic bag
As user of cheap tool over two decades, worst part of cheap calibers is repeatebility, measure and you got different result every time. If doing precise work its annoying. And there is diffence between cheap ones, others are ok, others are better. And someday even 0,1mm precise plastic one has its place (measuring magnetic parts or probably electricity in parts)
Mitutoyo is for sure not worth it for the random diy Jimmy.. I would say for most others its still not worth it, but if you are a Huge production place, where this kind of money is nothing, why not get them. If nothing else, it will scream Pro production place for people looking from the outside. It will never help the worker itself, thats for sure. The absolute function isnt Mitutoyo only, many cheap amazon Calipers has this aswell.. I got one from Amazon UK a good time before brexit, a 300mm version with absolute function, it feels super nice, and i can open it hard and close it hard, and its never off.. I changed the battery i think 4 times, so they for sure eat more power in idle mode then the Mitutoyo, but how much is a battery ? i payed like 25 euro for the 300mm Calipers, i dont use them every day, but like 4-5 days a week i guess.. how much is 300mm Mitutoyo ? ;)
I am from Denmark, sorry for my bad English. :D
EDIT: So sorry, i didnt mean 300mm, i ment 200mm.. SORRY..
The harbor freight Pittsburg work accurately for about a year then start showing reliability issues
i have a husky caliper, it's about as good as i would expect for the use it gets. I'm not exactly easy on it... I've left it out of it's case now for a few weeks for... god knows what reason, as i try to remember to clean up the garage... again. but they aren't as accurate as I would like, but that could be because I'm not using them correctly, don't actually understand how they work, or some other issue with just being a generalized moron when it comes to some of these things. they work for the purpose of "finding the distance of these 2 holes i need to drill to mount this thing" and that's about it they get used for. I like them but again, they feel cheep, with the resolution of a ocean freighter. so idk.
Constructive feedback: keep your mic out of your breath. You are thumping my subwoofer pretty good in this one.
More measurement techniques, of course. :)