Black Diamond Presents: BD Athlete Carlo Traversi On the Second Ascent of Meltdown (5.14c)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2019
- Ten years. That’s how long Meltdown stood unrepeated. Considering that Meltdown is located in the mecca of traditional climbing, it’s safe to assume that the Yosemite route-established by Beth Rodden on Valentine’s Day in 2008-is one of the hardest crack climbs in the world. Many of the world’s strongest booted up for a go at the line, and all came away empty handed. But on November 7, 2018, BD Athlete Carlo Traversi put all the pieces together, and clipped the chains on the route, claiming the coveted second ascent of Meltdown. For Traversi, however, the achievement solidified what he already suspected: Beth Rodden’s legendary ascent was ahead of its time. “I still don’t completely understand it,” writes Traversi. “But cheers to Beth for showing me the way.” Check out this beautiful film by Cameron Maier documenting Traversi’s second ascent.
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I think something Ondra's team has made apparent to me is that I would really love to see more full uncut send videos released Alongside the journey/perspective videos like this.
The video of the Silence send, as well as the footage up at Smith were really game-changers of climbing movies, in my opinion.
Ondra's uncuts are great really, but the genre existed before; for example the Jumbo Love video from Ethan Pringle or Dai Koyamada's The story of two worlds are some just really great examples from the past.
that's how lots of climbing videos used to be. Check out the TH-cam channel 'mellow' that just popped up. Uncut and in-depth videos on the actual climbing is their focus.
Synthysizer but its almost all bouldering.
Climbing movies have been around for decades and the old school type of climbing movies are much better IMO. Watch movies with Patrick berhault and Patrick Edlinger in it. La vie au bout des doigts is a classic
Cheers for a route completely protected by gear BD stopped building!
Interesting notice.. heh
I think they are just temporarily out..
@@Zzzzzzzzzzzzjjjj Man. bummer. I love the C3. :(
I've got a set of C3s, love em. I hardly climb trad though when I do the narrow heads come in handy a lot and it's easy to find secure placements for them.
I remember seeing pictures of Beth on this route when she sent it and thinking, "How is that even possible?" A truly impressive feat to have first on that!
Beth!! 🙌 Great perspective. Also, good climbing Carlo!
This is wonderful to watch and listen to. Thanks Beth, Carlo and team!
Just beautiful. Slow, calm and steady style of Carlo's climb perfectly matched the scenary. He climbed this route with perfect harmony in the nature.
Congrats Carlo! Great job!
Love how smooth and in control the climbing looks. Two thumbs up
Everything about this is beautiful. Feeling very much at peace after watching, yet also motivated.
Big congrats to Carlos for his success after so much work, & unbounded respect for Beth's astonishing achievement with the first ascent. Exceptional climbers, and people, both of them!
Such a beautiful climb.
3:40 want to see more shots like these , beautifully done thank you so much for posting most enjoyable. Well said by Beth I can't climb 514 anymore I will climb what's enjoyable.
Awesome video
Great film and idea,
But it would have been nice to see Beth’s retrospective paired with Carlo’s own journey on the climb. I’ve heard it was frustrating for both of them, and I think it would have been a great opportunity to see just what a mythic, long standing project can do to someone’s psyche.
It also would have afforded the opportunity to talk about all the moves, and see some whippers :P
Go back and watch Dosage 5, my man. Beth's section climbing Meltdown is the last segment, and it's incredible.
Agree, I feel this could be made into a longer film telling a more complete story. Still very well done. Will check out the Dosage 5 for sure.
So good
So amazing
I would love to see some more detail on the locks... At the end of the video i'm still left with the question: what does a 5.14 lock look like?
There is one lock, with the close up. Otherwise it is just hard vertical climbing through a seam!
NIIIIIIIIIIIIIICE!!!!!
Great video！Music is beautiful，it elevate the whole atmosphere of this video. By the way anybody know what is the name of the background music？
3:18 this doesnt even look like a real place. just gorgeous
He makes that look way too easy. hahaha
Doesn't do the difficulty justice, the video had no heart/feel for such a hard and seldom climbed route.
i like how Beth talk about climbing: if i cant climbing 5.14 anymore. i can still climbing something easier. that's great. :) i like it. that's why we climb. that's life.
🔥!
Guys thank you for the good quality equipment,I just bought black diamond momentum ds harness which is really good
Awesome! Glad you like the harness!
I think there is litterally no piece of equipment by BD thats not really high end. love using their stuff. their harnesses are the best on the market
@@doublevgreen We appreciate your support! Hope to see you at the crag.
Oh Beth..
Anyone know the track that starts at 0:36? I love bouldering to music like this.
Did you ever find the name of the music playing?
Miusic name?
give joe another chance!!! pleaseeeee
I wonder if that was Carlo's actual send go, or if he's just posing for the camera and doing it little by little. He definitely did not look like he was struggling at all to get up that climb. It looked too perfect.
Too many close-up shots (with no camera visible in prior/subsequent wider views) tells me this is a collage of several attempts.
Very cool how clean this route is. Probably like others I came here after reading about it in Tommy Caldwell's Memoir The Push. It seems to have the feel of a sport climb but extra beautiful on camera without a line of quickdraws showing the route, with the ante upped compared with other 5.14's due to precious energy spent on gear placement...
What I like most about the route is that it's first ever acsent was made by an woman
Joe Weber seriously, the other day I saw “FFA” first female ascent. WTF? I thought we were equal.
Aww look at the cute little TH-camrs who got their feelings hurt. You guys are adorable. Don't forget to get some sun every once in awhile, basements can be pretty dark.
Five ten model shoes?
Quantums.
Thought for a second this was the meltdown established by Johnny Dawes in Wales.
It was a Dawes slate project,eventually climbed by …...James Mchaffie.
th-cam.com/video/c5lP5XbShMg/w-d-xo.html
Could talk more about of the hard moves on the route, the process to send it and falls...
rip old classic climbing videos
Then it would be like every climbing video ever made ;)
Would have been way cooler to see the line being worked and whippers. These clips from big companies of just a “perfect” send are unrealistic. Climbing is majority working a line and the process!!
A lot of that is top rope stuff...
And a lot of it is diaper filling falls on gear as we move outside our old comfort zone, into what is possible. It would be very cool to watch that process on a climb like this.
@gapi215
So I did not dislike this video, but I can't help but feel like they squandered an opportunity in making this. All the praise and recognition for Beth Rodden is fine (and well deserved), but it was Carlo who was climbing the route. They briefly talked about how hard the route is, but we don't really get to see the process or how long it took him or what the crux was for him or anything. Beth already had her fifteen minutes of fame with this route when she sent it back in the day. It's cool to mention her and talk about her achievement, but I came here to hear Carlo's story and effort of the route. Not to relive Beth's ascent, if I wanted that I could just watch Dosage. I hope we can get climbing videos that aren't pushing some empowering narrative and just showing how people try hard on hard routes.
Climbing without a helmet is dangerous, both for the belayer and for the climber. I don't know why Black Diamond makes movies with their athletes without wearing a helmet, it's a bad example.
@Bobo Jenkins the word nazi is superfluous, I tried to be respectful but you are being aggressive.
@Bobo Jenkins what is your problem? do you work in the company? my criticism is towards Black Diamond
Who's climb was this about? more Carlo, less Beth.
I hope he brushed all those tick marks off #RespectTheRock
lol, do you realize a raging waterfall keeps that route unclimbable 9-10 mos out of the year?
Nice fake waterfall... And where was that music coming from?
Yea that was AMAZE CG lol. @@
Ron Kauk was a smoother trad climber tho
terrible videography - cannot see hardly anything of the climb really.
That the chick that cheated on Tommy Caldwell? Boooooooo
🤣