Timing Belt, Water Pump, Pulleys, & Seals - 1MZFE Lexus ES300 Redo Project - Stage 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- This video is the first stage of a Lexus ES300 (3rd Generation) make over project and will show you, step-by-step, how to replace the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, cam and crank seals. This car has over 160K miles, the timing belt had slipped, the water pump and pulleys seized, and many parts were either worn out or in need of replacement. The V6 1MZFE engine is shared with other Toyota based vehicles such as the: Camry V6, Solara V6, Highlander V6, Sienna, Avalon and Lexus RX300. Since the ES 300 engine ( 1MZFE) is shared with other Toyota vehicles, the service being performed on this vehicle can be duplicated on the V6 Camry, Avalon, Solara and other Toyota vehicles as well. This engine is not VVTI (valve interference engine found in the 3MZFE) so a broken timing belt can be installed with a new belt without worry of internal engine damage such as bent valves. To perform this procedure on the 3MZFE engine, refer to these videos (Sienna & Camry 3MZFE):
• Toyota Sienna V6 3MZ-F...
• Toyota Camry V6 3MZ-FE...
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/Hard...
Toyota 1MZFE Parts and Specialty Tool:
Timing Belt & Water Pump Component Kit (Good kit … comes with OEM Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Aisin Water Pump & GMB Bearings):
amzn.to/2VQsUE3
Aisin TKT-024 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
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Toyota 90311-38034 Seal, Type T Oil (Cam Seal)
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Toyota 90311-40022 Type-T Engine Crankshaft Oil Seal
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Bando OEM Power Steering Belt:
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Bando OEM Alternator / AC Belt:
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Torque Strut Rod:
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DEWALT DW4901 1-Inch Crimped End Wire Brush:
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22 mm High Mass Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal Socket
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OEMTOOLS High Mass 6 Piece Crank Bolt Socket Set, 6 Pack
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Camshaft Seal Removal Tool:
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Camshaft Seal Installation Tool:
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Telescoping 2" Round Inspection Mirror:
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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease:
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Chain Strap Wrench:
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Right Angle Portable Electric Drill (for the Wire Cup Brush):
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Wire Cup Brush:
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Oxygen Sensor Wrench:
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If you do not feel comfortable using a chain strap wrench to remove the camshaft pulley bolt, you can try using a universal pulley holder tool. You'll need to use this in conjunction with a "cheater bar".
OTC Universal Pulley Holder:
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Harmonic Balancer Puller Tool:
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Star / E Socket Set:
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Toyota Antifreeze Coolant:
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Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
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Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
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Excellent how to! I will likely have to watch it over and over again before I even start then a few times to get it done. Thanks again!
Proud Lexus owner here! and I can say that nothing beats the quality build and long term performance of my 2005 ES330!!! Amazing
It's a tough car with a tough engine and transmission!
I love all of your videos. Straight to the point with plenty of detail. You don't waste viewers time with things like how to jack up a vehicle or a life story.
Thanks for supporting our channel!
Would like to commend you on the video, I showed this to a friend that wants to replace his own timing belt / pump / pullies etc. I have been wrenching for over 30+ years and have seen a lot of stupid repair videos, you did a really nice job on this. One comment- consider wearing gloves when using the chemicals, you will wish you had 20 years down the road, or maybe consider making videos instead of getting greasy. Good Job! I will pass this on to any friends that need guidance for T-belt on 1MZFE.
Thanks for your comment! This timing belt job was done down South in the middle of summer at over 90 degrees in the shade with humidity. In 2 minutes or less, perspiration "sweet" will begin pouring out of your gloves and start dripping on everything you're handling. Also, after you take the gloves off, you're skin will look all wrinkly like you've been in a swimming pool for 2 hours. Then when your gloves tear and you try to slip on a new pair, without talcum powder, you won't be able to get them on. If you're taking a break, slip the gloves off and later try to put them back on ... forget it if there's residual moisture in the glove. So while I'm letting those gloves dry out, I have to slip on a new pair. Don't get me wrong. I hate washing / brushing out grease out of my finger nails; but wearing and using gloves in heat and humidity is worse than working with greasy hands. When cleaning my hands, I've found dish detergent to work the best with a nylon bristle brush. I then coat my hands with olive oil or black seed oil to get the moisture back into my hands.
@@hardlymovingpro I understand, but still, just for the short bits when you are using degreaser / Brake-clean protect you skin..
You can get it from Amazon. Search on Toyota Camshaft Seal Installation Tool, Lisle Seal Romoval Tool and Chain Strap Wrench.
I have a question for you on sludge on the 1mzfe. Have you had any problems with it? How do you deal with it if you have had problems?
@@CuttinInIdaho Easiest way to gradually eliminate it from you engine is to add 20% Marvel Mystery oil with every oil change. After around 3 oil changes, you won't believe how much cleaner your engine will be. You can monitor the progress via the oil dip stick. If the oil gets black in under 1,000 miles, it's working! You may want to change it though instead of waiting for the next change interval since the cleaning action could prematurely clog up your oil filter.
Uh oh, you're supposed to use transmission fluid for the power steering system in this car. That generic Auto Zone power steering fluid will ruin the rack seals.
I'm afraid you're mistaken. Most PS fluids have a stop leak additive that swells seals to prevent seal leakage and seepage.
@@hardlymovingproToyota calls for Dexron 3 as their power steering fluid, not traditional power steering fluid
@@hardlymovingpro
When I bought and had my sisters old 1998 es300 and replaced the inner tie rods during a front end freshening in 2015...the rack was leaking. After posting and digging around on Club Lexus and looking through my sisters maintenance receipts she had the power steering fluid changed a few times over her 10 year ownership at a jiffy lube type place...that used regular power steering fluid. The consensus on the forum was that this ruined the rack seals.
Edit* hey I just looked at your avatar/pic, I think I read one of your how-to's somewhere while I redid the front end on that car. I did drivers axle, lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings and links, struts/mounts, inner outer tie rods...mmm probably forgetting something.
Interesting anecdotal conclusion. When I get 1st time customers with leaking ps racks, I advise them to refill their ps reservoir with ps fluid containing stop-leak for around a month. About 50% of the time, it stops the leak! Engine oil seals typically harden with age, develop a leak and require replacement. Oil replacement can enhance longevity. Motor oils labelled for engines over 75k miles contains those stop-leak additives to enhance seal life.
Thank you so much for your time and effort in making these videos. With the help of this one and your other videos, I was able to do timing belt/water pump and valve cover gaskets on my '95 es300.
Thank you so much!!!
Great news and glad you found the videos to be helpful!
@@hardlymovingpro lm stumped at the first hurdle. how do you stop the crank from turning when taking the crank bolt off. I'm guessing brace it somewhere? appreciate the great video. wish me luck!!
Nice work, that was a hell of a job! I have to do the same thing on my Australian 2003 Avalon (same as 1994-1999 US model). Looks fun.
Thanks for you comment! I figured as long as the previous owner didn't neglect engine oil changes, I had a good chance of bringing the car back to life ... just had to put in new parts, time and effort and crossed my fingers when I turned the ignition key.
I have the exact same car, thinkin about fixing an issue that whenever it runs, somewhere in that whole belt area, it makes a sandy gritty noise, still runs fine. Also I see oil on the power steering pump, any idea what any of this could lead to? GREAT video! Thank you :D
The gritty noise is probably your bearings either in your water pump, alternator or power steering pump. The oil on the oil pump is a loose hose clamp from your p/s pump reservoir going to your pump. Just pump another screw clamp in front of it.
Alright - finally got this done for my brother. Bought the big beef socket and it worked w/ my 1/2" pneumatic impact w/ 10 gallon compressor. It came off in two seconds flat when prior to this we spent several hours trying all sorts of methods to remove the crank bolt. This job kind of kicked our rears as we had to fabricate a few special tools but we replaced both cam seals, water pump, all the pulleys, tensioner and the timing belt. Learned a lot - thanks to your video - but also got our tails handed to us - I won't tell you how long this took us - but the experience gained will certainly be useful for the next time around. Okay, okay, it took 17 hours over the course of two days :-) Including tool fabrication (cam seal insertion tool and cam sprocket holder tool) and a couple of runs into town for cam seals - I boogered up one of the seals and had to go back to two different stores to find another the second time around.
Hey .. live and learn... but you got her done! You could have used a paint can lid remover for the seals ... or jammed a thin tip screw driver and a pick tool (if strong enough) to pull it out. Holding the cam pulley ... a chain strap wrench is the way to go ... guarantee you'll use it again on another job. Can use PVC piping to press in the cam seals.
@@hardlymovingpro , yeah well, I fabricated a cam sprocket holder for about $10 which worked really well and I actually did use an 1 1/4" cpvc coupling chopped down to install the cam seal. It was the hammering which I think ruined it as the inside of the seal started to come out as it went on so I got some bar stock, drilled a hole big enough for the original bolt to go through and used that on the outside of the cpvc coupling - it's basically the same thing as the tool you use in the video and the seals went on so beautiful after that that I was about to shed a tear LOL. My other brother drives a '99 camry w/ the same motor and he needs a timing belt done too so i think I can do the next one a whooole lot quicker ;)
Good work with the custom fabricated tools! The thing with me is that I do so many of these TB jobs I just spend the $$$ for the professional tools. You do enough of these jobs with the right tools, you'd be surprised how fast you can complete the job. The last 1MZFE job took me 3.5 hrs. Not bragging ... do it enough times, anyone will get fast at it.
@@hardlymovingpro , hey have you ever come across after market cam seals that don't seat flush being slightly too thick? We used a felpro cam seal set and we bottomed out the seals and they still stuck out about a 1/16". It's not leaking or anything but was wondering if you've ever come across this before?
I've seen this happen before. It's good to compare the old seal with the new one before installing it.
Believe me or not I have a 94 es300 and I’m in the situation to change the water pump but kinda scared to change it because of the re align it and missing up
I understand but you can use this video almost verbatim to do the TB/WP replacement. The 1MZFE engine was introduced by Toyota in the late 80's/early 90's for different vehicles with minor changes to the engine; however, no changes to the TB configuration until the 3MZFE came out (and all they did was change the TB tensioner).
You can also watch my videos on the TB change for the Camry and Sienna which uses the 3MZFE engine. Identical to the ES300 except for the TB tensioner.
Hello, I'm going to be doing this soon. I plan on changing both valve cover gaskets, the cam and crank seals.
There was a code for the back knock sensor so i hard wired it to the front sensor ( i don't know if it is worth dealing with while I'm doing this job, i hear the actual knock sensor will be ok but the connector/wires will be bad, corroded from the heat.)
While I'm at it I'll also change all the spark plugs, and the dog bone mount.
What else should i replace? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Doing the rear valve cover can be a pain. Disconnect everything that holds that wire harness that sits on top of the valve cover including the power steering sensor line. Then you'll have enough room the take the cover off. With the cover off, you'll also have easy access to the upstream oxygen sensor and would suggest you replace it. If your car is very old, I'd also recommend you replace the high pressure power steering line. Can be a pain to replace with the plenum on.
Once you remove the intake plenum, you should have access to the knock sensors as well (believe there's two).
@@hardlymovingpro I'll look into that high pressure power steering sensor line and the 02 sensor. Thanks!
Amazing rescue! So much great tools and detailed good work! I’m sure the ES is happy! This would all cost a fortune at a mechanic and it wouldn’t be worth it. So the DIY along with cleaning makes this a great resto.
You are absolutely right and it was very rewarding bringing it back to life.
Hardly Moving Productions ... So How Much Would This Job Cost At A Shop If I Had Brought A 2000 Es 300 with 89,000 miles and I just wanted to do all this so I’ll know it’s done?
Thanks for making this, this is one of the most helpful how to videos I’ve watched on this particular job. I’ve got this same car with over 300k on it with the original timing belt. I love my Lexus, I’ve had it many years so it has some sentimental value to me, and rather than just junking it I’m actually wanting to start rebuilding it now to try and make it run and drive as good as it use to. I’ve got gaskets leaking like crazy including both valve covers, and my local mechanic quoted me 1,500 dollars just to change the timing belt alone, I’ve been afraid to tackle it myself thinking it will be extremely complicated to work on, but after watching this I think I can do it lol.
Hey ... thanks for the post and glad you liked it! Yes ... you can do it. Just make a small investment with some tools that you might not use again but it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper than paying someone $1,500. Don't make the mistake on putting time limits on completing the work. If you get frustrated, just walk away and get your composure back. If it takes 2 days or a week to complete the job, so be it. Check out the other videos I put out on the ES300!
Id just pay the man do the simplier stuff.. Get him to do mine..
I actually have to do this today the serpentine belt ripped off and my Brother said you don't have to remove really anything you can do it just on the top by removing the pump or the alternator ? Is there an easier way ? Also don't have a Drive bar
Don't understand the problem and the question. Are you replacing the timing belt or the accessory belt? There's no serpentine belt on the 1MZFE. There's only the power steering and the Alternator/AC belts.
Thanks so much for video and tips & other video & detailed write-ups on the 1MZFE Engine. I will use this info to solve oil leak issue on our 1996 Camry and I beleive I have same engine in 2000 RX 300. Very helpful.
Your welcome and my pleasure. The 1MZFE is used on your 96' Camry and 00' RX.
Awesome! Thank you so much for posting these videos. I'm about to attempt this with my 98 Avalon which has developed a major rattle at 1.5k-2.25k rpm that I've attributed to the tensioner and possibly other pulleys. I will definitely be referring to this video during the process!
You're welcome and enjoy! With these videos, the right tools and patience, you'll save money and feel a great sense of accomplishment after you've done the job yourself!
I have the same problem on my 1996 Avalon. What was the cause of your rattle?
I have a ticking sound within that rpm range. Had your rattle gone away after your TB JOB?
@@FEETLE Yes. The issue was the belt tensioner. The belt was so loose that it was flapping against the plastic cover. That's what all that noise was at that rpm range. I ended up replacing the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and cam/crank seals while I was in there, but the noise was 100% the tensioner.
What great timing, no pun intended -- I unfortunately inherited my father's '97 ES300 a few months ago. He only had it about a year but really liked it so it will remain with me for sentimental reasons. It's got 202K on it & it appears to not have been serviced in a long time. The valve cover gaskets are leaking & I will be doing this same job too, especially since I think I hear a noisy bearing which could likely be the same one that gave up on your car. Yours was a real mess to have 160K on it, wow! That had to be satisfying hearing it fire right up. Anyway, this is a great guide for me -- I appreciate the tip on the Aisin (sp?) OEM water pump and the Toyota seal installer -- did you have to buy the installer at the dealer? Was it expensive? I look forward to seeing more of your progress on this car. Thanks!!
We got a video coming out on the valve cover gasket replacement along with a whole bunch of other stuff. You can purchase the camshaft seal installer from Amazon for around $20 or so along with the seal puller. I've got step-by-step text article with pictures on the TB replacement at another site. Here's the address:
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-1MZFE-Timing-Belt-Replacement-Camry-Avalon-ES300
Excellent. Thanks for the good information!
I always marvel at the repair work people like you do on engines and transmissions. It's like a surgeon repairing a body. Not something everyone is wired to do.
Thanks! Takes both patience and perseverance.
NO, WAIT! DONT USE POWER STEERING FLUID... You did all that hard work BUT now you will screw up your power steering pump seals with PS fluid because you have to use Dex/Merc III transmission fluid for the PS pump or it will shrink the seals... I have that exact car and that info is standard for most toyotas/lexus those years if you just check the manual or google it or call the genuine dealership it will be confirmed so. Many of those cars went to the shop to get pump replacements because most mechanics and people assume it would naturally take Power Steering fluid when it doesn't. ..one step forward one back. You know a ton of everything else it appears... way way more than me... but this I do know and wanted to share. I did just go on a pointless adventure adventure of removing the entire valve body to replace a shift solenoid malfunction code putting the car in limp mode... it wasn't the solenoid after all but a bad ECU/PCM I got at the junkers for 20 bucks and car worked and shift fine after! And that is what I should have done first because it was the cheapest part and easiest install...oh well... now I have coolant hemorrhaging out the back side of the engine down by the firewall and dont know why... Im at 160k now too. Thanks for your videos!!
My guess on the coolant hemorrhage is either your freeze plug is leaking or your heater core hose has broken. If it's the freeze plug(s), you can use a product call "K-Seal" which will migrate to the source of the leak and seal it up without effecting the rest of your cooling system. It goes for around $15. It won't fix rubber hose leaks. Haven't had any problems replenishing PS fluid into the reservoir . ATF fluid is recommended if PS fluid is not available.
Follow up...the power steering reserve loosing atf fluid..and I don't know yet where is leaking.. thanks again
There are 2 possible sources: 1. The low pressure hose from the p/s reservoir to the pump is leaking from the spring clamp(s). Solution: Either replace the hardened hose or put hose clamps in front of the existing spring clamps. 2. The rear (firewall side) camshaft seal is leaking and migrating to the p/s reservoir. Solution: When replacing the timing belt, remove the camshaft sprocket in order to replace the cam seal.
Good day..Do you have the video of changing the power steering pump or just follow the route.. thanks for being a blessing... have a blessed day
you guys are so professional....I could never figure this thing out...Thank you for sharing....
No problem!
I like the way you clean everything very nice and a very excellent job thanks for a very well done video.
Thanks. Spent the extra time to clean things up. Afterwards I did a power wash to clean the engine bay some more. Here's the video if you're interested:
th-cam.com/video/jTO_RHiydQ0/w-d-xo.html
if the marks are not lining up, does it cause piston/valve or valve to valve interfering? some people think it would be.
There's no problem if you have the 1MZ-FE engine. It's a non interference engine. Later versions with the VVT-i technology was interference along with the upgraded 3MZ-FE.
Hey man, I'm here simply to expresa my gratitud for this content. I own a 98 es 300 and did this particular overhaul. My car runs beautifully. I had intended to replace the head gaskets while I was at it but I was strapped for time and also concluded that head gaskets are an even bigger job than this. That said, have an awesome day, brother. Peace.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
nice vid , , if your going to do all that work , would be easier to just pull the motor ,
Thanks. My record in doing this job is 2.5 hours. That's because I've done it over 2 dozen times with the right tools. So if you doubled the time effort to 5 hours plus, I think the TB/WP job would still be faster than pulling the engine out of the car. I would guess, based on past experience, at least 3.5 hours to pull the engine out.
If you can pull an engine\transmission. Put it back inside 3 hours. I got several cars for you to do.. As these are easy compared to pulling all that shit without engine lift. Trans axles. etc.. You would spend 15 hours doing it that way. If you had all the right tools as well. With a car 6 foot car lift....
I've seen these guys at the dealership do it all the time. You disconnect the plumbing (coolant and brake lines), disconnect the electrically wiring harness, disconnect the exhaust pipe and transmission linkages, disconnect the front suspension strut tower from the chassis, support the subframe with 4 jack stands, remove the bolts connecting the subframe to the chassis ... then using the car lift, lift the up the car while the engine and trans stay attached to the subframe. 3 hours...then another 3 hours to install ... and ??? hours doing the engine / transmission repair.
@@hardlymovingpro You got 7.0 hours right there. Then you have to do the timing belt\pump add 2.0 hours for that. Then hope everything goes back without breaking shit. Then do a front end alignment. That is lots of work for timing belt\pump..Not going to tie up a lift for 2 days for that..
Why in the hell would I take that long. When I can do the job in 3.0 hours in the car? They must like giving away their time as well..
You are absolutely correct. I'm not the one advocating pulling the engine out. It's the poster who started this thread a week ago. I stated that I could do this TB/WP job in 2.5 hrs ... that to pull a engine would take at least 3.5 hrs. That right there is a 1 hr difference ... why would I pull a engine to do a TB/WP replacement?
Wow. Hell of a task. You are a great mechanic. Im highly impressed with your attention to detail. The people who owned that car didnt give a f#%& about that thing. Good luck with the Lex.
Thanks! Couldn't finish the redo project since one of my customers insisted on buying it.
Great
Thanks!
I'm from Indonesia, I like video shows that broadcast about cars with a 1mz-fe engine, which coincidentally has similarities with my toyota camry, TOYOTA CAMRY GRANDE 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6, unfortunately I'm having a hard time shopping for spare parts, maybe you have one a recommendation for me to shop for COMPLETE SPARE PARTS WHERE OTHER THAN ALI EXPRESS OR AMAZON FOR THE NEED FOR 1MZ-FE ENGINE SPAREPART THANKS
You can use rockauto.com
What's that spray you used for cleaning the timing belt covers ?
Walmart brake parts cleaner. You can buy it in the auto department and its cheap. The cleaner that sprays out white is a water based parts cleaner.
@@hardlymovingpro okay thank you!!
I really like how in-depth you are with these videos, not only with the disassembly, but reassembly as well. I had this done on my 01 ES300 a while back, this video gave me confidence in knowing my $1000 I spent on having it done was well spent lol! I don't think I would ever do this myself, but I it's very interesting to see how it's done. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your post and comment Zach! With the right attitude, patience, parts and tools, anyone can do it. What you saw in this video is how it's pretty much professionally done. All these powered hand tools make the job go faster and easier.
Pretty hard work on ones like that. Way to go!
Love the vids… Quick question I wonder if somebody could give me some good input on I have a 99 Toyota Solaira V6… I have a quarter size oil drop under the car seems to be dripping off the bottom of the power steering pump… I had a mechanic change the top cam Seal and the crank seal… I know there's one more on the bottom… But he keeps referring to another one… That's right!! another one that he refers to as a main cam oil seal That he hast to raise the engine up from underneath the car to get to and replace while removing a motor mount…… Unless I'm misunderstanding what he saying… I don't know what the hell he's talking about what other seals are there at least motor or oil that would drip off the bottom of the power steering pump???!!! Thanks for any positive good input this is been a little bit of a nightmare thanks again
You have three potential sources of oil leakage by the power steering pump: 1. The firewall side camshaft seal. 2. The firewall side valve cover gasket. 3. The hoses leading either to or from the power steering pump is leaking from a hose clamp that's no longer providing good tension. The third cause can be corrected by putting on a new hose clamp in front of the existing clamp. There are 3 seals that make up the V6 Toyota engine. 2 for the camshaft and 1 for the crankshaft. If your guy replaced one camshaft but not the other, I would attribute his motivation due to pure laziness! If the leak is coming from the valve cover, the intake plenum along with the ignition coil packs must be removed to get the cover off. Around 3 hrs of labor. You can power wash around the entire area with the wheel off so you can more accurately determine the source of the leak.
so nothing that reqiures the engine to be lifted and bracket removal etc??! GREAT RESPONSE ... thank you very much for your time!💪🏻
@@darksolara6750 If the tech knows what he's doing, nope.
Hardly Moving Productions SO BASICALLY THE ABOVE VID..... ok great thanks again...
Yes ... glad to help.
...and you made the one mistake I see a lot of people make. Nobody reads the power steering cap. It says to use ATF (Dexton) not Power Steering Fluid. Almost all late '90s - 2000's Toyota/Lexus are that way, but people assume PS fluid. If you find the PS pump is loud (whiny) when you first start it and the wheel is a little hard to turn... it probably has the wrong fluid in it.
The only difference between ATF and PS steering fluid is the additive package in the ATF. They're both hydraulic fluid.
What number was the crank pulley on to get TDC on the crankshaft. Zero or five?
I stopped using the lower timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley to to TDC alignment. The problem with that method is that the camshafts could be 180 degrees away from their timing marks. I now use the crankshaft sprocket with the engine mark. Look at the video time mark 24:10. Align the dot on the crank sprocket to the dimple mark above and to the right of it.
People who treat their vehicles like this one should ride bicycles. Luckily, this is a non-interference engine so it probably just ran like shit but the valves were not damaged. I have a 00' Avalon with the same engine with 150K...not a single drop of oil or parts which are not working. I always had old cars 15-20 yo and they all looked and worked (mechanically) better than most newer once. No idea how many miles did this vehicle have but if maintained the way I do will run to 500K.
Thanks for your post! And you're right! Being a non-interference engine made this engine salvageable. Also, if you have very well designed engine and you keep up with the maintenance, you could get 500k miles of these Toyota engines. What cause the problems with this car was poor quality maintenance. The cam seals where not installed properly and the major source of the oil leakage.
Good job. Nice informative video. mine has 120,000 have replaced a lot of belts on toyotas but not the dual overhead sideways 3.0 s Sorry I laughed when the alternator went kapow.. That would have pissed me off...lol
Should have first blown compressed air into the alternator. The power of cob webs!
Wow, you are skilled.. nice work, I have seen your other videos. Do you have a shop? I'm in LI and I'd drive for quality work if you are a reasonable distance. Like to get the belt on my 2003 es300 replaced.
Thanks. I live east of Memphis in Germantown TN.
Brilliant! Like surgery... I really want to purchase a vintage '01 ES 300 and this gives me a tad more confidence of what to expect for repairs. Thanks HMP!
Glad you like the video! Yes ... the ES300 is a great automobile on a Camry / Avalon chassis with virtually the same reliable V6 engine and Aisin transmission. The separation from Toyota is better quality paint, more standard creature comforts, durable and better interior material and superb sound deadening. Resale value with gen 3 is low (a few thousand $'s), and if you watch the rest of the ES300 redo videos, you can do the work yourself to bring the car back to almost new condition with nominal cost in parts.
Wow! You actually commented. You should open a shop in Philadelphia so I have a reason to buy all the vintage cars and still be able to afford to live decently. Bahahaha! Again, it was so sharp that you replied. Thanks again HMP!
Thanks ... so far no big deal answering questions ... less than a half dozen per day ... like helping people who need a little DIY help. Like providing a public service outside of corp America. I get a little bit of TH-cam ad revenue and product sales comission from Amazon.
Is the motor a interference or non interference? Was there any concern for bent valves? My daughters 2003 es 300 with 309,000 miles just had its timing belt fail. Your video is very helpfull
ES300's with VVT (variable valve technology) engines became interference. If the belt broke in a low rpm (non highway) environment, there's a chance that the valves were not damaged.
Best mechanic
It gets the job done but real Toyota techs would call this a hack job especially how he used the tool to remove the cam spockets, an extension pipe for leverage on a 3/8 rachet, keeping the new t-belt dry and how everything is torque to specs🤦♂️
I was a dealer tech. Where did you think I learned how to do this?
What,how??,...what TF .KINDA CORROSION WAS THAT??,how long did that car run all screwed like that?
I hear ya ... around 3 years. The 3000GT Mitsubishi project was a stationary car for 8 years! Check out those videos.
Im about to tackle the timing belt on a 99 sienna. My concern is retorqueing the crank bolt. Do you torque it against the belt? I watched a ton of vids and havent seen that process yet.
Also, the same question for the retorque of the cam bolts.
One more...does the chain leave bite marks on the can sprockets? Seems like it would.
I torque the crank pulley with a impact gun. Cam bolts manually while locking the cam from moving.
I'm just a non-mechanic guy who decided to do all his own repairs 2 years after getting this vehicle (1999 ES300) and so I've been learning a lot, but this will be my first timing belt/WP job (in about 12,000 miles). I've watched your video and many others' videos more than a dozen times each, closely analyzed every part of the videos, learned various techniques, bought new tools, wrote my own guide based on these videos and the official manual (for myself, to reinforce all the knowledge), and just started going to the junkyard to practice (yesterday) the removal part of this job on ES300's.
One thing I'm concerned about though is the hugely conflicting information on whether my 1999 ES300 with VVTi is an interference engine. Some people are 100% sure it isn't and say 1mzfe is non-interference regardless if it's non-VVTi or VVTi, and others claim that VVTi automatically means its interference by nature of the design (I'm not savvy on engine designs, so I wouldn't know). One post I've read says in the 3MZ engine on an ES330 the official repair manual's timing belt procedure gives instructions based on that engine being an interference. However, in the 1999 ES300 (my car) official repair manual from Toyota, there is no mention of engine interference and the procedure is exactly like your video (for example, the setting to TDC by turning the crankshaft - it even mentions being able to turn a whole 360 revolution). The only "NOTICE" it gives is to always turn the crankshaft clockwise. I've heard there are special precautions to take in interference engines, but none of that is listed in my manual. A part of me is scared. Are there any parts of this video and your guide that would ruin an interference version ES300 if done incorrectly, such as with the handling of the crankshaft/camshaft pulleys? Why does the manual say to only turn the crankshaft clockwise? Don't you have to do it counterclockwise to get the bolt out? I want to hear your takes/knowledge on interference, if you have time.
VVTi is interference. Toyota wanted more power out of their MZFE engine so they raised the compression ratio. Majority of car manufacturers are taking this route. I don't know how many degrees you have to be off on the cam for the valves to touch the pistons, but as long as the engine is not running, there won't be any damage. If everything is set at top-dead-center (TDC), you can move the cam sprocket forward or back 2 cogs to mount the belt without worry of the valves coming in contact with the pistons. You can also do the same thing with crankshaft to mount the belt. There's no need to go beyond 1 cog counter-clock wise to assist mounting the belt.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the info. That does ease my worries. Thanks for your detailed videos and for the responses 🙂
No problem.
BTW - here's the link to a 3MZFE engine timing belt replacement performed on a Camry. The only thing different is the belt tensioner design.
th-cam.com/video/jfxGNo9KlFk/w-d-xo.html
I have always had the belt tensioner replaced also. They say you should because the spring gets weak and not the same tension. I always wondered how that was all done on my 99 sienna. Always paid to have it done and it has 220,000 miles on it. Thought you would have to be a midget to get in there and replace everything. :-)
Haven't encountered one that has failed to date.
What happened to the alternator?
It shorted out. Covered under Autozone lifetime warranty with the owner who sold me the car. We drove out to a local Autozone store, they verified in their system that he bought it (12 years ago) and Autozone honored the warranty with another replacement alternator!
Hardly Moving Productions sounds good 🙂!
I love your video I miss my Acura TL 06 you was the first video i saw on timing belt
The TL is a nice ride when everything is working and nothing is worn out too much.
Hi! Can anyone tell me at what exact minute he talks about the water pump and where it is?
Very helpful video; thanks! The neglect that car had suffered is amazing. Suggest trying Purple Power for de-greasing; less odor.
Thanks ... I use something similar to Purple Power sold at Dollar Tree. One quart, one dollar. The stuff I used in the video was a Walmart brand degreaser. What I like about it is it's water based. Here's the video where I power washed the engine bay:
th-cam.com/video/jTO_RHiydQ0/w-d-xo.html
I see the difference in toyoda and Honda,everything is Chunkier with toyoda just hunks of metal for each piece,lots of steel vs Hondas aluminum
True but Honda's double wishbone suspension, when all the parts are in good condition, provide a better ride and handling.
Installed new belt and had equal tension throughout. After a test start all the tension remained at the bottom with slack between both cam sprockets. This caused the belt to start walking off on the top tensioner and cam pulley. How to fix please?
Did you remove and re-install the cam sprockets? If so, they're identical except they're to be mounted on opposite sides of each other to prevent the belt from slipping off. One side has a lip (firewall side) and the other is open with the lip facing the cam seal.
When you lined up the Timing-Mark, how did you know it was at TDC and not 180 degrees off...?
Camshaft sprockets alignment marks are in their correct position
Getting that slack right is the key...As once you pop that grenade pin..It can cause a skip of one tooth on the right cam..Me and a Honda a fight over this once...I won....
Which is why I use spring clamps to prevent the belt from jumping off the cam sprockets.
Good work! Guess it's time to do mine with the original belt at 145k before this happens.. so I can reuse the timing belt tensioner?
Love my 01 ES300! Gonna refresh all the front suspension too!
I need to start making videos of all my diy projects..
Yup. You don't need to replace the tensioner.
2 years ago in the Chicago land Napa I paid like $160.00 for the ASIN Kit and it came with the tensioner, idler pulley, water pump , water pump stainless steel gasket , and tensioner pulley . I only had 165,000 Mi at the time I did all mine. I wouldn't be "Cheap Charlie" and I would just change everything while you're in there including the camshaft seals.
what’s the mileage?
175k
Very good job it was pretty good and you made everything look easy to do.its a 1999 lexus es 300
Thanks!
I have an oil leak in my 99 ES300 that drips onto the ground. I crawled under the car (passenger side) and with a UV flashlight saw that the timing belt tensioner was soaked in oil. Which seal do you think is leaking?
Can be any of the two camshaft seals.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you! So the camshaft seal, not the crankshaft seal.
That car looks like it was submerged. Then all the sand and grit in the water ate them bearing alive... And what was up with that sparky ass alternator?
I bought the car as a good spec project car to do a lot of potential videos. The paint and interior were good. The deal I made with the owner was that I would buy it only if I could get the engine operational and that the transmission shifted fine. I could fix anything else that was wrong. So I knew the TB and WP had to be replaced and I would do that at my own cost. If the engine did turn over but had no other major problems, I would buy the car. Fortunately for me, the engine internals were fine ... car fired up with no smoke. The alternator, however, did blow up (throwing sparks) and I believe malfunctioned due to a build up of cob webs? Since the owner remembered he bought the alternator from Autozone, it had a lifetime warranty and we exchanged it for a new one (btw, the alternator was over 12 years old). I bought the car and I fixed the rest of the car problems ... just watch the rest of the videos I made on this car. (E.g. New radiator, hoses, ATF flush, valve covers, spark plugs, 02 sensor, ignition wires, filters, suspension struts, control arms, ball joints, stabilizer bars, stabilizer bar bushings, brake pads, rotor resurfacing, door handle, sun roof, steering wheel, headlight restoration, etc.) I didn't get to finish the remaining repairs (basic auto body dent repairs and painting) because one of my customer's needed a car real bad and wanted the ES300 ASAP. It's been several months now and he absolutely loves the car and people have commented on how smooth the car rides.
Great video, thanks. I had thought I would need to put a support under the engine before removing that motor mount; am I wrong?
No engine support is necessary to remove the side motor mount. It's really not a motor mount ... rather a torque mount to prevent the engine from rocking or twisting too much during hard acceleration.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks!
That's impressive!
I just noticed that the kit you purchased AISIN TKT-024 came with a new tensioner, but you reused the old one? The AISIN TKT-004 is the same kit without the tensioner. Do you recommend replacing the tensioner?
After doing quite a few MZ-FE TB jobs, I've never experienced a failed tensioner on the MZ-FE engines. But for the benefit of those who don't feel comfortable doing a job like this without replacing all TB components, I recommended a kit with the new tensioner. You can save a few $$$'s by getting the kit without a new tensioner. The tensioner, IMHO, is not a high stress wear component like the idler and tensioner pulleys.
Who the heck was the previous owner? That car was really used up without any maintenance at all. People tsk tsk
Improper installation of the camshaft seals and the owner just kept running the car. The timing belt eventually jumped from a seized idler pulley and the engine wouldn't run anymore.
EXCELLENT SERIES ON A LEXUS. #RESTORING A LEXUS : STAGES 1-6 DOCUMENTARY
Thanks!
I'm kind of new to diy projects like this. My question is regarding the reinstallation of the two camshaft pulleys. I see that you adjusted them individually when installing them back on, but would that misalign the camshaft or internal parts? My biggest worry at attempting this is not being able to align the pulleys back into place.
Hats off to you for taking on this repair! Yes ... the camshafts will move during both the removal and re-installation of the camshaft pulley; however, since this is a 1MZFE engine and is non-interference, nothing internally will be damage. As a matter of fact, you can turn the cams 360 degrees without any damage. After the cams have been re-installed, you can simply move the cams back to their alignment marks. Just line up the v notch on the metal cam dust shield with the grove on the camshaft. Good luck!
Is the rear cam supposed to be positioned facing the way you have it, with the lip on the gear facing you? I was working on this a couple hours ago and the belt would start to slide of the idler pulley. Looks like the way you have it keeps the belt guided on way to idler. Thanks
Yes ... the front and rear, or left and right cam sprockets are interchangeable. The only difference is the lip or edge for the rear (by the firewall) is facing towards you while the other cam sprocket is facing towards the engine. This arrangement helps keep the belt on.
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate it 👍
Hey man ive got a harrier 300g, unfortunately the engine's camshaft pulley is broken and for some odd reason i have not been able to find it anywhere, you know any links/websites to order it off of
Any nearby salvage yards where you can pull the part off? Got a lot of yards where I live.
@@hardlymovingpro the country i live in barely has any, ive checked local and online markets as well with no luck
No dealers either?
@@hardlymovingpro unfortunately, i couldnt even find people willing to sell it online
I have a 98 Lexus es 300 … while changing the idler and tensioner pulleys. I turned the crank shaft to acquire top dead center and after turning it a couple of times I saw that the belt was slipping on the crank shaft gear and I don’t know how many teeth it slipped (5-6).. I set crank shaft alignment but cam gears don’t line up … so I went another revolution to see if they would line up then but they didn’t …I don’t know what to do ? Do I set top dead center with crank shaft and then move forward the cam shaft pulleys to top dead center so they all match up ???? I am 70 years old and I’m confused as to what I should do now. Please help me…
Rotate the crankshaft pulley to the TDC mark. Check and see if the camshaft TDC marks are close to alignment with the backing plate TDC v notch. If the camshaft TDC mark is approximately 180 degrees off, rotate the crankshaft one full rotation or 360 degrees. That will get your cams where they should be (but won't because of belt slippage / jump). Now remove the belt as shown in the video and reposition the camshafts. Follow the rest of the procedure as shown in the video.
Thank you so Very much . I ha assumed that would be it but I know what they say about that word ..: you’ve saved me !!
You bet!
Where you guys located at?? I want my Lexus work on like that...awesome job!!
Good old Memphis, TN
@@hardlymovingpro well I'm in nj so I wish you were closer like 30mins closer..lol but thank you for your reply.. I really appreciate you and the video's keep up the good work...
Can you recommend a mechanic shop in SW😚Virginia that is capable of doing these jobs?
Your comments would be greatly appreciated.
Is there some reason you can't just use an impact gun to zip the cam shaft bolts out? Perhaps with a Lisle high density socket to overcome the camshaft pulley spinning like we can with the crankshaft pulley?
You can try but don't know what type of impact tool you can use on the firewall side cam sprocket.
@@hardlymovingpro good point 😆
7:43 sounded like you were.........Ahem!!! ....Yeah!
Pretty messy ... wasn't it!
That's an oil seal. How can it be affected by oil?
The seal could swell and can be difficult to remove in the future.
I have to do a head gasket job on this engine. It looks like I'll have to do most of these steps to remove and probably replace the timing belt, since it's coming off a 95 Toyota Avalon. Any recommendations on replacing any other things along the way, since I'll have it apart anyway? Also, great work! I enjoyed watching.
Good opportunity to replace the firewall side exhaust manifold/catalytic converter.
What kind of solvents did you use? Was that degreaser and carb cleaner?
I use anything and everything to remove grease and carbon. You can even get away with using Dollar Tree's oven cleaner. Walmart sells water based engine cleaner that works pretty good. Or you can use compressed air with brake cleaner.
Is there no video of the finished project? Did you fix the dents and scratches? Curious to see the end result of all the labor you put into this beauty.
Someone came along a bought it as is.
@@hardlymovingpro hopefully you profited at least 2k on all that labor.
I finally got the 3mz out of my Rx. One of the Studs on the bottom of the engine mount was angled and stuck in the frame and the threaded stud on the top kept getting caught on the wheel well. So I hacked them both off with a multi tool lol.
The heads of the bolts holding the ac lines to the condenser via the elliptical compressor connections sheared off then I broke one drilling out the machine screw. I think I found replacements on Amazon but need to figure out how to get the old one off and the new one on.
Jesus! That car was dirty! Enough to gag a maggot! Great job!
Thanks! I know!
Make me feel inadequate .. but I would have rejected that car. 😮
But extremely satisfying bringing it back to life!
way out of my expertise, i just brought a 99 lexus es300 130000 miles im bring it to you, where are you and how much do you charge
Outside Memphis, TN. You close by?
@@hardlymovingpro not even, lol Maryland
I travel to NJ every 6 months and pass through Maryland on the way.
Would this work on my 1993
Yes ... pretty much the same.
I live in Baton Rouge, Louisiana and my wife has exact same car. How much would you charge to fix timing belt?
I charge around $650 if you provide the parts
@@hardlymovingpro I saw the above comment I also live in Baton Rouge where are you located please? I have a 99 es300 that may need this specific job done.
@@miriamb.8807 I live outside Memphis.
The air conditioner on this car is hard to match. They are simply amazing. Anyone that has one knows what I mean. My 1MZFE is at 270,000 and I'm ready to give it its 3rd timing belt because the seals are leaking.
Yup ... on the MZFE engines, the cam seals won't last forever. What gets me upset is when repair shops associated the rear cam seal leak with a power steering pump leak. The pump sits directly below the rear camshaft. When I tell customer's its a cam seal leak, they tell me they spent big $$$'s replacing the p/s pump!
I would not know. When I bought my car with 160,000 miles used Toyota Solara the bearing was out on the air compressor pulley. I just deleted it and run the alternator direct to the crankshaft pulley.
What the hell happened to this thing? Who neglected it that badly??
2nd hand owners who don't want to spend any money until something breaks or just can't afford to get it fixed.
Amazingly skilled work.Way out of my league.Puts me off a V6 now.Maybe I'll stick with my Camry 2.2 4 cylinder LOL.
Thanks ... but I prefer doing the V6 over the I4 ... believe it or not. I like the dynamic belt tensioner on the V6 vs the "lock-in-place" I4 tensioner and more of a hassle removing the I4's torque rod mount.
Toyota's 2.4L 2AZ-FE (2002 - 2007 Camry) is a lot smoother and more powerful than the 2.2 5SFE. Hyundai's 2.4 is also an impressive engine as long as the oil pump doesn't fail.
@@hardlymovingpro Problem is the oil burning issue with the piston rings.I know a lady with a 2008 RAV4 with that engine and it eats oil like there's no tomorrow.Only done about 70,000 miles.Apparently the head bolts can shear off too and there's no repair for that.
Yea ... Been reading bad stuff about the 2AG-FE I4.
If you just took pot around in urban driving like I live in most of the time, I believe 4 cylinder engines have more low end torque which I noticed the most from a standing stop.
I think my 1992 Ford Probe 4 cylinder engine ( made by Mazda) had better starting from a start then my 1999 1MXGE. But the Probe version woyld not be able to touch the Toyota engine merging onto the highway or at highway speeds.
Amazing video, thank you for sharing!
Glad you liked it!
I'm full of questions apparently. This is going back to a question another guy asked earlier in the comments regarding torque specs. I would have thought getting exact torque ratings on the camshaft's and crankshaft bolt would be very important in this job(?), but I didn't see you use a torque wrench for either of them. I believe other Lexus/Toyota timing belt videos I watched also didn't use torque wrenches.
* Would you suggest for people who aren't a good judge of torque to use torque wrenches on this job?
* You could hold the crankshaft pulley with the chain wrench and torque it with a torque wrench + cheater, right? Or would that be too difficult to do under the wheel well space-wise? (I haven't gone back to the junkyard yet to try)
I do like the idea of just zipping the crank bolt on at the end, if that is a totally acceptable way. However, I have an Earthquake XT cordless impact driver from Harbor Freight. It claims1200 ft lb of breakaway torque and combined with the lisle 22mm high density socket it easily zipped off a crank bolt from an ES300 at the junkyard.
* Would this impact driver be too much risk in over-torquing the crank bolt at the end of the job?
* Can you over-torque those bolts and create problems for the car?
* I assume that it would probably not be a good idea to torque it at the end with the Lisle high density socket attached?
The torque on the camshaft pulley bolt is around 90 lbs. That's right around the torque of a wheel lug nut. But I've seen lug nuts over torqued up to 150 lbs. The crankshaft pulley bolt is around 160 lbs. Use a breaker bar to torque back on the camshaft pulley bolts. When torquing on the crankshaft pulley bolt, watch the socket while apply the torque. When the socket stops turning, release the trigger on your impact driver. We're talking about fractions of a second.
I would not used the Lisle socket to torque the crank pulley bolt back on. Use a standard impact socket.
how good is that battery ratchet? i would like to get get one but i dont know which one to get. im looking for reviews cause i would like to get a good one. and thanks. 🙏
Battery ratchet or battery terminal connector? Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/5wmC1dpBbbQ/w-d-xo.html
@@hardlymovingpro the battery ratchet you was using to remove the bolts. Im trying to buy one but i want a good one.
Use any 10 mm box wrench or a 1/4 ratchet wrench with a 10 mm socket
What separates you from others on you tube is your understanding that on reinstalling the timing belt, engine timing is reached when the right side has tension and all marks have aligned. You have ingeniously brought back the timing belt to the state it was in when the tensioner was first removed.
What's your thoughts on this trick for those who may have missed a cog or two?
th-cam.com/video/WGZOXrIq2Q8/w-d-xo.html
If you missed a tooth, turn either the cam or crank pulley towards each other to relieve tension until the belt jumps 1 tooth off the sprocket. Re-position the cam or crank (remove slack) to TDC and recheck your alignment.
@@hardlymovingpro
I am with you. Your method of focussing on the right side ensures the engine is timed correctly before the tensioner is released.. I was more concerned about others who may have missed a cog and have released the tensioner. This would eliminate taking off the belt and tensioner and retiming .
If they released the tensioner, they'll have a "redo" job.
@@hardlymovingpro
I am working on a 2002 Sienna with 1mzfe engine. I reinstalled the rear cam by the fire wall. After torquing it down I used by hand to rotate it fwd and it jump rapidly forward about seven toots. The crank is at the alignment mark. I will this cause any valve piston damage?
Great video. Found this while doing research getting ready to do timing belt in my ‘04 ES330. It looks very similar. Does anybody know of major differences I should be aware of?
The 330 or the 3.3 liter is basically the same engine as the 3.0. Only change they made to the timing belt design is the belt tensioner. Watch my video on doing a TB job on a Sienna that has the 3.3 engine.
Good content here. Looks like someone really botched the initial timing replacement. Nice work
Thanks 👍
I'm confused. Lexus es300 are NON Interference engines. How did all that damage happen!?
It depends on whether you have the 1MZ-FE with or without VVT technology. Believe in '99 the ES300 came out with VVT, raised the compression ratio hence made the engine interference. The ES300 in this video is a '97 and the timing belt "jumped" and did not break. The cams had to be reset to their top-dead-center position along with the crankshaft before mounting on the new belt.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for clearing that up. I've got my eye on a 2003 es300. I'll be sure to confirm the engine type!
That's an interference engine
@@silentmajority8518 You bet ... no problem!
I was quite happy to find that whoever worked on my 2001 Toyota Avalon last had put anti-sieze on the crankshaft bolt. Came out pretty easily. The camshaft gears were fairly easy once I found the right crowbar that fit between the gear webbing(sprockets? whatever) and used a good sized cheater.
The annoying bit came once I got far enough to pull off the water pump. The stud that was missing from HMP's Toyota was present on my Avalon, which makes removing the water pump impossible... I tried removing the front stud first, but made the (terrible) mistake of using a hex socket, rounding it over. So ordered new E torx sockets, still couldn't get the front one off because it was still rounded over from before.
Luckily the back stud did finally come off with more penetrating oil, PB blaster, and the right socket.
Unfortunately, as I inspected the new water pump in the kit I got from Gates, I noticed various dents and dings around the sealing surface, so now I get to deal with returns during a pandemic. Hurrah? @%#$%
If you don't want to worry about future water pump problems, get an Aisin brand pump. You can overcome the lack of clearence with the side studs by jacking up the engine a inch or so with a wood block between the oil pan and the hydraulic jack.
One other question I have about this job. If you were to drain all the coolant by using all 3 coolant drain locations, would that prevent the water pump from spilling tons of coolant below it when it's removed?
You can try but you're only losing around 2 qts of coolant removing the water pump. I don't know if you can call that "tons of coolant".
pretty cool video
Glad you liked it!
wouldnt it be easier to just drop a new motor in there ?
A used motor or a new one? With a rebuild, you have to transfer a lot from the old motor to the rebuild. I can do a timing belt / water pump job on this car in under 3.5 hours. How long would it take to do a engine swap?
Hello sir. So i got the same 2001 lexus es300. Do you have to worry about if the engine is interference or non interference. To change the timing belt.?
If the replacement is being performed on a belt that's not broken ... then no, nothing to worry about. When performing the replacement, if the cam sprocket were to "jump" either forward or back, just re-position the sprocket. There won't be any valve damage. Valve damage occurs from belt breakage while the engine is running. Good luck with the TB job! To support our channel and receive notifications of new videos, please subscribe!
what is the brand and model # of the cordless gasket cleaner you're using when cleaning old water pump gasket? Im trying to find one but unable to..
It's a Milwaukee M12 right angle drill with a attached wire cup brush. Here's a link to it through Amazon:
amzn.to/2UNXYs7
You should be able to get a wire cup brush at any hardware store for a few dollars.
Hope this helps.
Do you have the part number for the stud @ 19:45? One of those longer studs corroded and fused with the water pump on my 1MZ. Thanks
Dealership parts dept
He did this I. A half hour basically I’m shocked and floored on how quick he did this. My mechanic took all day and ripped me off.
Normal speed around 5 hour or less job.
If you move the rear cam back one cog from the alignment mark. that will give you the slack you need on the front cam. with all the slack at the belt tenshioner. when you release the timming belt tensioner all the timming marks will be aligned. the belt will have perfect tension on it. good video
True ... but you may have trouble mounting the belt from the front cam to the crank.
this video is very helpful I need to do all that to my 1997 lexus es300 I'm watching this video 3 times already cuz have to do this thanks