Sail Life - Fairing and fixing holes - DIY sailboat restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ย. 2018
- I continue my DIY sailboat restoration. After having spent the last month working on the hull it's awesome to be back on top - working on the deck.
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Your caution in the cockpit locker is well founded. My father's boat had a capped-off plastic thru hull (left by a previous owner) just above the waterline in the starboard cockpit locker. As you can imagine, one day it resulted in a near sinking adventure.
The answer to the edge of the cabin top?......a 1" radius, hides all the variance. The only sharp edge should be on your filleting knife!I know the feeling of lifting the boat. I did our 15 ton yacht with one jack. I followed up with lots of wedges all around the boat. jack jack jack, tap tap tap, jack jack jack, tap tap tap. 300mm in total lift, to allow room for the transporter to fit under the keel.A good time to be in the shop alone too!Great video as always Mad.
Watching your videos is like watching bob Ross, mesmerizing
I thought I would share a cute story. I was watching this video in the living room and my littlest one said “oh Mommy why are you always watching that sanding show?” I laughed so hard. Glorious, glorious sanding!
so why are you? :-)
LoL ;-)
Damn that’s cute 😊
S/V Adma besides the fact he’s cute? I love sailing.
Lisa Conley you’re cute but I don’t sail tho !🌹😁
Your videos are wonderful, I don't even sail or live near an ocean. You are an inspiration for doing things you love to the fullest extent. BUT... I've been missing Jokull in your videos!!! I always looked forward to the old outro of you and Jokull sitting there awkwardly. It was sincerely great! How is Jokull doing???
Mads shaming those 80s workmen... then again working with an end as the goal as opposed to max profit is probably most of the difference.
Just looking amazing
Mads, you may want to visit an auto body shop with your questions. Bonds is very similar to faring compound, they do complex curves and flat surfaces, sharp inner and outer edges...and everything is painted super shiny.
To sand that cabin top radius try making your own sanding block out of a piece of wood. Take a piece of 4"x4" wood about 6 " long and cut the cabin top angle into it. Make it about 5-10 degrees farther open than the actual angle. You want the angle to be larger so you can work on one side of the problem at a time by rocking the block. Once the block is cut run a bead of thickened epoxy in the sharp corner to match the radius of the cabin top. Sand it smooth and then stick self adhering Velcro to the block. If the velcro does not stick well use a staple gun to hold it down. Cut your long board paper to the size you need and go at it. I have a simple radius block I made that is currently my channel icon.
For your outside radius sand vertically so that your sander follows the angle you are already happy with and then from the top, with the sander following the roof line on the long axis will get the angles perfect. I kept telling you this while watching the video but you couldn't hear me. lol. Keep up the good work!
Theres a rubber broad knife used in drywall that should spread the fairing compound very well. It conforms to inside corners, like where the cabin top meets the deck. A bonus is it’s easy to clean. Just bend it and twist it to break the epoxy off.
I can’t wait until you come out with the 8 hr sanding video.
8 glorious hrs of sanding in a video and it could be be put to meditation or calming music or just the sanding scrap scrap vacuum sound.
My curiosity had me putting a few of your sanding clips together and just putting the video in a loop. I tried music and also just looping the best sanding and vacuuming sound clips. Oh it was just glorious!!! My Pet cat “Scratch” looked at me and around like hey something isn’t right! Sounds like someone scratching at the litter box.
Hey I see 8 hrs of meditation, 8 hrs of meowing, 8 hrs of barking, 8 hrs of purring, 8 hrs of laughter, 8 hrs of ocean sounds, chanting, rain, thunder, birds ,8 hrs of farting you name it!
BUT NO ONE HAS A 8 hrs OF SANDING ON VIDEO!
I only saw one video of sanding that was 1hr and 11 minutes.
You could be a first to have this video!
Every week it’s a joy to watch all the work you put in your videos !
Always great content and useful and entertaining.
To fix the inside corner between the deck and cabin wall, just lay down a fillet of thickend epoxy, shape it with a rounded corner piece and hand sand it with sandpaper around a similar rounded corner piece (piece of a broomestick?). Always try to avoid sharpe corners, it's so much easier to clean later on.
Try dragging the front end of a 4" diameter semi-ridgid foam roll (pool noodle) throught the fairing. Cut the roll down to a manageable size and stay tight to the cabin wall and deck to form the inside curve...good work on the restoration.
I posted application tips earlier. But for sanding we used to make custom sanding blocks from spray foam and fiberglass. You can also carve them from foam and then lay some glass on the foam to help it hold up to sanding. Another thing we did was lay the filler on thick and then use a body file that resembles a big cheese grater to shape the filler when its about halfway cured.
Also wood works better but it takes more time to make and if it's a 1 time job its not worth the time. But you can use wood for the backing for the sandpaper.
Pick the size of radius you want for the concave curve (1/4", 13mm, whatever) , and get a wooden dowel that size. Cut the dowel down to hand size and wrap the sanding paper around the dowel. This will provide a consistent size and shape.
I've gone for the trudesign seacocks too. If you just want a hosetail then cut down the thru hull fitting so the collar of the hosetail ends up flush with the hull. You could even do away with the nut using a female hosetail fitting as the nuts built in. You only need the load bearing collars if theirs a chance someone might stand on it or something heavy hitting it. Hidden away cockpit drains won't have people standing on them.
Mads, you are such a perfectionist! I don't think you will EVER get that cabintop faired out to your own high standard. I don't see why you can't eyeball the curvature. I honestly think you would do a fantastic job of doing it manually.
I think sand the two respective surfaces nice and flat ignoring the point where they join. This will leave you a nice sharp edge which you can then easily round using a piece of formed sand paper. To me this method makes better sense than trying to form the curve while you are sanding the flats. Anyhow its looking dare I say it excitingly darn spiffy Mads.
for fairing use, an aluminum sheet cut out with the profile you want then drag it along with enough filler, and like plaster, work don't go back over it twice while wet. it makes a mess. BTW love your adventure in this boat project
The hull is gorgeous. You and the friends did a lot of great work to get to this done.
Thanks! :)
For your outside corners along the cabin top, take a piece of plastic and throw a hole in it the appropriate size for the around portion. Then using your two sticks find the angles that you want and make the smooth cut into that so that the sides are tangent to the circle. That's you formed a scraper with a consistent round portion that will fit cabin
Since you have that "spiffy "vaccume pump you can make a vacuum chamber to set the fairing compound cups in........bubbles will vanish and it is cool to watch how much comes out.
Mads, YOU THE MAN!
I don't have a boat, don't go sailing.... but, I love watching you make Athena a beautiful boat again and have been watching since you got her, its so relaxing to watch such a great bloke doing a fantastic proper job. Your new girlfriend is lovely too
Mads if your cabin top is sanded flat and the front of your cabin is sanded flat, then you will end up with a straight line, now sand that edge slowly with a sanding block along its length until you have the radius you are happy with. As for the bottom edge of the cabin, similar procedure, sand the deck flat, sand the front of the cabin flat and then mask off and leave only the inner corner exposed. now apply your filler, and trowel off with something that has a radius that you like (spoon, plastic conduit, stirring stick). When it comes to sanding, use a sanding block that is round, (again a piece of plastic conduit works) leave your masking tape there or even replace with a new piece of tape as this will act as a guide and show you where not to sand. Use a guide coat so you can see where you are sanding and do it slowly.
Two flat pieces one on top and one on face that are as thick as the faring you wish to apply . Taped to both surfaces Fill the space between and use a drywall corner trowel to shape flatten the material. Of course some” glorious , glorious sanding” ( copyright) will be required. There is thin vinyl that could be used for top and face with radius cuts to help make the turns across the cabin top. Hope this heads you in the right direction.
Mads to create your edges on your cabin top to the best of your ability. Use a "die". Take a piece of wood to create a sanding block in which you see fit for the radius. Use sand paper in the newly created sanding block. Sand length ways on the area that you wish to shape. As always make sure that the face of the area that you are sanding is completely flush and sanded. Try not to over sand your edge. Put a guide coat down on the flat surface as to not over sand and create another low spot on the face of the cabin top and sides. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions feel free to reach out.
I just want to be clear make sure all your surfaces have been faired and you have created a hard edge, and that you are content with the cabin sides and top. Make sure they will not need to be sanded anymore before creating your edge.
Take a grinder or dremmel grinding/sanding drum to a cheap broadknife and make a rounded-over ‘V’ notch in the center of the knife edge. Then simply spread the fairing compound on with, well, anything, the drag that V notched knife along in one smooth pass and you’ll get a perfect shape to the joint.
Get sheet sandpaper and a large sponge wrap the sandpaper and use it to sand those radius's. The sponge will allow the paper to conform to what you are seeking. The harder you press the more of the compound you will remove and the reverse. You can also alternate the grit to remove more or less. I go to the dollar store and buy sponges with the green scotch brite attached to one side for the finer work.
You can buy a "radiusmåler" and use it as a guide when sanding the outside radii... and sand with a hard block and eyeball it. You will be surprised how well you can do it like that. Not everything can be done with a ruler. Sometimes you just need to find your inner artisan ;-)
Take the angle from the shipwright's contraption then cut a piece of stiff thick plastic with the radius you desire. Use as a template and make several. Then use to scrap the shape in just as you originally used the shipwright's contraption.
Corners: Maybe build a custom sanding board for each angle+radius you wish to produce. New torture devices aplenty. Build up in order to sand back down to the desired shape?
Well Mads, you had me holding my breath when you jacked up the boat. Glad we didn't get to see you squashed flat!
Another advantage is you will be able to exactly repear the identical round-over anglt wherever to need to.
Try pieces of Venetian blind slats mounted to your jointed stir sticks, their curved cross section should give you a smooth trowel effect on the filler compound
What about putting bigger portals in the front? It would look better in my opinion. Awesome workmanship and discipline to do it right the first time.
hi Mads,
in the middle ages whitches and evil spirits where believed to live in corners...
at least on boats i agree :)
here the trick: on the top corner either "simply" hand sand with a sanding block or start with a bevel that you round up afterwards. i strongly recommend to sand a radius to that edge to make it more resitant to wear&tear. its also easyer to get it good looking with a bigger radius. how big you can go depends on the fiberglass underneath.
for the corner between the cabin sides/front and the deck i make myself an spatula with the radius i want. then mark a line on deck and cabinside where the radius meets the surface . masking tape along those lines leaves a strip on each side of the corner. fairing compound in the bag an squirt a line of it into the corner. fair ovef with radius spatula. the spatula must be drawn tightly on the deck and cabinside. if done corectly you now have a radius that ends on the edges of the masking tape. all ecess compound is on the tape and can be removed bevore the compound dries. sanding...well that is done by hand alone i am afraid :)
i realise this description is a bit longish, hard to do witout some sketches.
please let md know if you need some more graphic input, i'll email you some drawings.
greeting from hamburg
martin
p.s. if all fails you can always paint everything i anti-scid...:)
Thanks for the very detailed description :) I've had a go at the inside corner with a plastic spatula that I cut to shape. I think it worked out okay - we'll see 🤞😁 Hehe, I like your plan B.
The mixing sticks idea will work if you don’t use the faring compound so thick that it sticks to the sticks. You can use plexiglass instead of mixing sticks so the compound doesn’t stick to it as much or 2 stiff credit cards with a bolt and nut holding it together. Make compound as thin as you can then drag it along the edges. Thinner is better on the final precision faring . Maybe you can use this. Love the videos ⛵️👍👍
I would recommend using a piece of wood with the ideal radius ground into it. About 6" long and 2" wide. glue sand paper into it and use it to generally transfer the radius to the edge. It will take some skill.
The bottom of the keel is huge compared to what i was picturing in my mind. I was imagining more pointy and less flat. Sanding our the exact radius you are looking for has got to be a hand and eye skill. Car developers do it all the time to get the exact radius. Not to worry, it will look fine once its covered with paint. Great Video as usual. The brass thru hull layup was a thing of beauty.
Mads, for the inside corner I would try the same trick as they are doing when applying silicone to the bathtub. Two masking tapes and wet plastic spoon.
Hi Mars
Hindsight is 20/20 too late for this technique now but you might use it on another part of the boat. Before you remove the old components use Somé mold release wax and make female or male patterns of the contours. You can then use the pattern to produce the corners needed and glass them into place. Good luck. Excellent videos.
For the deck to cabin inside join it depends on if it is a sharp corner or a rounded corner you want. For sharp use your drywall taping knife and finish say, port and starboard cabin sides and front deck, then after sanding them do side decks and front cabin. The trick is to never try to do both adjoining surfaces at the same time. For rounded just use a rounded end of a stir stick or similar tool to lay a fillet of compound, then sandpaper pinched around a dowel of correct size.
For the cabin top drill a hole the size you want for a radius in the center of a large drywall taping knife and then cut to the hole making the side/top or the front/top angles. Taping knives are inexpensive and are good steel and already have a handle attached. This will give you an easy to use tool for spreading compound.
Mark a line with a pencil about 5 -10mm from the intersecting faces. Then make sure you don't sand outside of those to start. Go slow and start with a 45 bevel. Then soften those bevels and finish easing. You can always sand more and make the bevel bigger. You kind of have to start over if you go to far.
u should have alot more subs ? people need to find ur great channel.- ur 1 of the best
Have to respect the attention to detail and thought process in hardware selection.
Nothing like standing back and looking at a completed job thinking I did that.
You could look at making or buying a "Bullnose Outside Corner Tool"..
And make a sanding block to the edge shape you want.
Mads, I have never commented on your channel which I have enjoyed greatly thru the years. I am commenting on a past video where you removed some smelly foam from the keel. In this video you removed the barrier layer of the integral keel. To be clear an integral keel sailboat, such as yours has a keel that is part of the molded hull and not a bolt on keel which is popular on production boat due to the fact it supports a number of different depth and performance configurations. Having at least one barrier layer is a requirement of ABYS for integral keel fiberglass sailboats and some boats have two. Our Caliber 40 LRC has two and it is great comfort to have when sailing the shallow waters of the Caribbean. The barrier layer is in the event the keel strikes a hard object and is holed. While the water can get into the keel spaces it cannot flood the boat until the barrier is breached.
A strike or grounding hard enough to hole the keel skin could damage a poorly made barrier so I recommend your do a good job on the installation. You do very good work so I am not concerned with the quality of your installations. I cannot say I am very familiar with your boat so I cannot layout a design however I will make a few suggestions.
1. I would not leave the space simple empty and filled with air or a dry gas. Due to temperature changes the differential pressure between the outside water and the interior of the keel body could lead to failures.
2. You could replace it with closed cell foam or if your boat is not weight sensitive additional ballast material. Either way something that takes up volume. I have even heard of these things filled with oil though I do not recommend that.
The only reason I am commenting is I have not heard you return to this subject lately and don't know if you are planning actions for this area. It certainly does not have to be address while you are in the shed where other project schedules are driving your actions at present.
I have spent many years building ships and enjoy sea going vessel technology. We have a blog SV Kooky Dance if you want to make sure I am not a kook.
Happy Regards
Capt. Scott Buckley
SV Kooky Dance
Thank you for posting that. That is some excellent info that I certainly was not aware of or had considered. Most have previously commented to convert those areas to extra storage or fuel/water tanks, but given your comment, it sounds like it needs to be re-foamed and then re-skinned on the top of the bilge for safety sake. At least now if I ever get a integral keel boat, I'll understand more about why they are put together the way they are. Thanks again.
Totally agree with upside down glassing Mads, definitely dry cloth application much easier and more effective. Cheers
Mads - just one question. Is there a Danish equivalent to "until the cows come home"? Of course, your videos are great but it's impressive that your English is so good. Thanks, Ron
Hello from Oklahoma USA something you may look into is your metal scrapers see if you can get one cut to the shape you need and scrape before sanding love the show HI AVA !!!!
Jeg er ikke klar over om det nogensinde er blevet forslået, men hvis du på noget tidspunkt vil udgive alle dine videoer på dvd med et index på alle de emner du på så fantastisk vis har vist os gennem årene, så er jeg "uanset pris" en sikker køber. Det er et fantastisk bibliotek på reparationer og løsninger på mange problemer der opstår som båd ejer.....En klar fan af dine anstrengelser med opgaverne og super visuelle videoer.....Mvh Jens J Fomsgaard
Hey Mads, you could take a piece of wood and make it into a sanding block with the contour you want for the angle. You don't have to be exact because once it is close put a piece of sandpaper upside down on a piece of the curve that you want to copy and run the sanding block over it until it cuts the contour into your block. Fit a new piece of sandpaper to the block and sand the contour into your cabin top.
on the inside corners you can use a round wooden dowel to make your radius on the outside ones cut the angle you want into a bondo trowel and use it to apply your faring compound it should make the edges alot smoother than the wooden sticks
A somewhat extensive refit?! Mads, if the refit was anymore extensive, you would be building her from scratch!
Useful progress there Mads👍😀⛵️
Hi Mads! Why don't you try some of the plastic scrapes you use when you put up wallpapers. You can cut them in various agles and glide along the edge.
perhaps handsanding with fine sandpaper and make a mall template so you can check it . it wil consume some hours i supose but it is your favorite hobby :D
Your shipwright friend has the right idea. You need to create the profile you want in a piece of wood...a pattern...put your sand paper on that pattern and sand until smooth and blended. It's how they do all kinds of contours. Your shipwright friend was just telling you how to get the fairing compound on within reason, but the final contour needs to be done with a purpose made pattern.
Actually he was hoping that one pass would be enough to create a clean edge that was ready for shaping. I was doubtful (and remain so) that it would work in one pass. If he stops by the boat I'd love to see if he has more scusess with the contraption 🙂
@@SailLife one pass? Maybe if the profile was exactly what you wanted and you had the stars aligned, and your tongue at just the right angle....or years of experience.
I've used the method your shipwright suggested with good luck on other things using Bondo (automotive body filler), but it usually isnt a "one pass" deal, and I still need to do glorious sanding with a form that fits the final profile.
Good luck....enjoy seeing these videos!!
Cut a section of pvc into thirds on its longitudinal axis. Then cut to a 3” length. Line ‘inside’ of pipe with stickey back sand paper - say 80 to 120 grit. Choose diameter size of pvc that best matches desired roundness of the cornered edge.
I am pretty certain that the maker of the fairing and barrier coat will be contacting you shortly. I would use a piece of cardboard cut with the profile and a guide made by a 1 by 2 to shape the fairing myself.
You could try wrapping a dowel with sandpaper for the inside radius. As for the top radius a foam sanding block may work but this is just a guess.
I was going to add, but too late, you did the job. But 5200 quick cure works great on such applications. Though designed for below the water line, it makes a great filler for areas just above with your through hulls... anyway.. boat is looking great.
Instead of the stick,you can cut custom squeegees out of plastic. I use cheap flexible cutting boards. But I'm sure you can find a comparable source of flexible plastic to cut custom shapes from.
You might be able to use the back side of a drywall mud inside corner tool to make a better application of faring compound.
You could try some molding or cut pvc on a band saw to get the edges. But idk how feathering in those would look or if the material you’re use will even bond with pvc
Take a rubber squeege and cut the radius in it then that edge you are attempting to make will be smoother. You can use a plastic spreader also to make the radius you seek.
Hi for the outside curve, use a straight and level fairing board that you can control very well with one hand (might not be one of your metal ones). Hold the board parallel to the curve and flush with one surface. Then move forward with the curve and rotate the board around the curve until you become flush with the other surface. The trick is to keep the rotation and movement forward constant as you move along the curve. A shipwright taught me this before I did my boat. Sounds complicated but it has less error than you might think. Message me if you want a better description. Keep up the good work!
It's too bad you lose access to that shed each Fall. I imagine it gets plenty cold and wet in Denmark in the Winter. I was there a lifetime ago in the Summer. Really enjoyed the visit. Beautiful country.
I'd try cutting up one of the flexible plastic spreaders you have been using to spread both epoxy and fairing compound. Wouldn't be exact but you could probably keep a consistent radius on the leading edge where those front windows run down to the deck. But I don't know shit to be honest...LOL. The hull looks great BTW.
Mads for your inside and outside corners look to the auto body industry for shaped sanding pads.
How about making sanding blocks out of wood that conform to those edges? I'm kind of surprised how easy it was to raise the boat and move the keel supports, nicely done! And I'm sure a bit scary as well. Wheee adrenaline!
Cabin Top... Use two 6" Metal drywall knives. Apply compound and holding the knives together where they intersect, pull them toward you. Key factor. And be more focussed on the outside corner. The side edges of the compound are easy to touch up later. Also and Very important is that Everytime you lift the metal knives off of the compound you have to wipe the back of the blades clean or you will be leaving snots in your finish. And always work toward a wet edge if it's not practical to form it in one shot. Keep the blades fairly tight where they intersect and angle them ever so slightly toward yourself when pulling the angle.keep them clean.
Use a sliding bevel to get your angles might help you in further projects
Hi Mads. For the radius, you can laminate a sheet of fiberglass (thickness depending on how flexible you want) then cut it with the application angle and radius. Once that's done, you can just slab fairing compound or thickened epoxy and just swipe the mold/fiberglass fillet you've prepared over it. By the way, the coppercoat looks like a million dollars. Amazingly fantastic! Congratulations on that.
Last but certainly not least, at 12:43 , it just looks like... Well, I need to grow up I guess! LOL
Set-up a live video stream 24/7 in that build.🤗
The copper coat looks beautiful! Nice job!
Mads,
Great video series. I have not commented before even though I have watched all your videos, but as a long time woodworker and stair builder, I can tell you that to get a uniform sanding on a curved and radiused surface you will need to make a sanding block that will conform to the surface. You will probably need several. I have used styrofoam blocks and glued up dense foam blocks of a thickness that will conform to the larger curves, but still be thick enough to not break down easily. To put the inside and outside radiuses in the block use coarse cut (40 to 60 grit self stick sand paper) applied to a portion of the radius on the boat and sand the foam block to match. If the radius changes significantly, you may need to make more than one block for each area. You then attach sticky back paper of the appropriate grit to the radius area of the foam block and sand away. After sanding to shape you then use a 3m (or equivalent) sanding sponge to fair from one area to another.
Several years ago I bought a Porter-Cable profile sander, it included several attachments for sanding convex and concave surfaces.
We used professional painting spatula from the supply shop for art painters; (boesner.com for example) You get those in a vast variety of forms, and their edges don't have the wooden edge problem Your adjustable fairing angle has.
Love the videos, can’t wait to see this in the water..
Between deck and cabin top - Cut a 4x2 timber to the angle and then rout it to the desired curve. For the top of cabin cut the angle into a piece of good thick ply then round out the inside angle, smooth it off with sandpaper and when you are doing the faring get plenty on and keep moving till you are done, Works well with plaster!
Regarding the cabin top corners, I don't have a good solution for the outside curve but possibly do for the inside curve. You could use a length of flexible extension spring wrapped in sandpaper. It would flex in one plane but retain its OD.
Great video.
Inside curves I use sandpaper wrapped around an appropriate sized wood Dowell.
In my opinion working from experience I would work on one face at a time and let the compound protrude out higher or further than the other angle sand it back to the required plane and then fill the void on the other face this will leave a sharp angle to be sanded back to the required radius great job by the way.
Hey Mads... For the cabin-top radius issue, I would focus on sanding and finalizing it on radius, but not filling it on radius and then sanding freely. You may easily carve one tick wooden sanding block at your preferred radius, and put sticking sanding paper on it two make sure you do not exceed your radius while sanding. We have such ready blocks for guitar necks... Just my 2 cents...
To make the inside radii, just drill out a suitable size disk of glass fiber and use it as a scraper. You might need to apply fairing compound 2, maybe 3 times, but you will get a very precise radius.
The deluxe version is drilled from an old saw blade and ground to a sharp 90-degree edge. Then it can also be used to scrape the fairing compound when hard.
If you need to blend two surfaces in a less precise way, you can cut a 5mm to 10mm rubber scraper in a somewhat finger shape thinned slightly towards the edge and use it in the same manner.
For sanding those corners, use medium density foam like the kind used in furniture. You can bend that stuff around the corner and it will conform to whatever curve is there and will continually adjust as the curve changes. Great for the outside corner and works for the inside corner, too. Cut the foam to whatever thickness that will provide the flexibility you need. You may have more problem with your sanding medium conforming to the curve.
Your videos are really really well produced. I runew in to see what you weekend was like. Very nice. Thanks.
Thank you for another excellent video Mads. I looking forward to the answer on those corners :)
21:55 ... idk but I would try to screw in place (with the right curve) a 1x1cm (or 2x2cm) wooden stick on the cabin top and then try to fill in the gap underneath... Then, You can sand the front part (along with the wooden stick) to the desired angle. Once done, just remove the wooden stick and fill in the screw holes. I've never done this and this is just my idea. Good luck! +1
You should get some sanding sponges dude. Just wrap them over the contour and use whatever pressure you need to where ever on them even out the contours. The corners of the sanding sponge apply pressure to each side of an inside contour and the pressure can be varied to each side to take off what you need to help even out those too. Brass through hulls have zinc in their compounding. The threads tend to rot away on them in like 20 years or so if any seepage get's to them. Bronze or composites should always be used for through hulls.
Actually one thing I have tried with some success when the 406 or 407 goes on a bit rough when trying to get a smooth shape (do they call it cheesing?) is to put a layer of peel ply on the top of the epoxy mix and then do the smoothing. Trouble I have found is that if you do more than one or two passes with whatever shaping tool you use and don't keep the peel ply tight you can get a crinkle effect - which may be great for dressmaking, but looks a bit odd on a boat.
Looking very very nice!
Hi Mads, I would suggest that you have to modify your angle rouler (advice from the shipwright) close to the hinge by adding the radius you want to achive!
Re: Rounded Edge Bevel at cabin top --
From a "sculpting" perspective, your "fill and shape" method seems the best technique.
You're filling the space defined by the slope of the side and the slope of the top, parallel to those surfaces, then you bevel that sharp-edged "fill" by sanding along the edge until it's rounded to your specification.
The boatwright's "double parallel" thingie does exactly the same thing, but seems to "jaggy-up" the sharp edge.
..in other words, I prefer your method. :) Aloha dude! 🤙
If you sand a 16th or 32nd off the sticks off the top two inches where the bolt is you should get just enough to sand it smooth and have to do less sanding in the end.
You could shape a wood block for each angle and radius and tape some sand paper to it
I have enjoyed the entire series. Thank you. To address your concerns about gloss coat imperfections, consider using a spray sanding indicator like auto painters use. Best regards.