Sail Life - Sound insulation & Volvo D2-40 heat exchanger cleaning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2018
- This week I finally got to put up sound insulation in the engine compartment! I also take apart the heat exchanger on my Volvo D2-40 to clean it. The expensive surprise of the week is that I need a new exhaust elbow. Dang it!
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It seems TH-cam has yet again messed up the processing of a video. It happens a couple of times a year. Hopefully, HD/4K will be available in a few hours. It has nothing to do with the file I upload it's 100% a screwup on TH-cam's end.
Then I wait. I want to see the "spiffy" engine in all its 4k glory! ;)
its okay you will get more views from everyone checking back in for HD :)
Happy to wait.
FYI (as you were uncertain) bitumen is usually pronounced "bit-choo-men"
Godt, så behøver jeg ikke lede efter fejlen i min ende :D
You are gradually transforming your yacht from a water worn stone back to a beautiful gem.
Pursuant to that I offer an observation regarding your new day tank in the engine bay.
I suggest that a combination of large flat surfaces combined with a significant volume of diesel contained within it might cause your tank to resonate and act like an amplifier comparable to the resonating organ employed by whales to amplify sound.
Other safety considerations notwithstanding some kind of sound deadening bulkhead between the engine bay and the day tank might at least be a good idea from that perspective alone.
One of the things that has amazed me about your progress with Athena is that you appear to have done it without drinking a single cup of tea. For an Englishman like me that would be a quite impossible feat (watch the Binky videos for a great example of the fundamental role tea has in British engineering) but you Danish clearly have a different constitution. Good job.
I suggest going to a bearing and seal distributor and take one of those o'rings and get them to match them up in their book and give you a quote. Just don't get mad and go back to the marine parts house and start throwing things through the window. You should get the old elbow repaired and save it for an emergency. Just be sure and coat it in corrosion prevention and seal it in a ziploc bag.
Mads. Try Keypart in Watford, England for your volvo parts. Exhaust elbow is a known fault on the 2020, 2030, D1 & D2 non turbo engines. The issue other than clogging the exhaust outlet is the fact the water injection point from the heat exchanger and the injection point inside the elbow both clog reducing the water flow and in some cases putting some sea water back in the exhaust manifold. This then affects the exhaust outlet valve in the head which no longer seats, lowers compression and eventually fails. Keypart do a SS manifold to replace the original. It's about £240.00 The good thing about this is it can be removed every other year and dipped in brick acid to remove the build-up where-as the cast iron one just rots away regardless. PM or mail us we have a lot of info we can give you on the Volvo's that may be of use. Sail safe Ant & Cid xx
Mads - you should find yourself some DEVCON - a pretty clever epoxy - we use it on exhaust manifolds and heads. - Recommendation - prepare the surface a little similar to the way you would repair fibre glass with massive clean up and taper / batter to allow a good bonding area - - over fill the indentartion then sand back to desired shape / contour. this will give you a reliable fix for the medium term - then have your hearts delight in chasing up a work around with threaded sleeve. The DEVCON is commercial grade and really good at doing its job. With respect to cleaning out the hear exchanger again - I would use a really decent descaler - inlieu of disassembly - ever 24 months. We use Rydlyme MILSPEC and really good at what it does + properly biodegrade able - some will suggest a crude acid wash - not recommended - very hard to get the concentrations right with your particular engine. there is bound to be a distributor somewhere in Nth Europe - have a look at www.apexengineeringproducts.com/products/rydlyme-chemical-descaler/
Mads, seal the edges of the sound insulation with aluminum tape. Dont leave any exposed foam, as it will absorb dieseĺ fumes etc, and over time break down
I have been bingeing on your channel for the last few weeks now. I first saw one of your newer videos and was surprised to see that you have almost 300 episodes. That’s amazing. What’s more amazing is the transformation of your skills and abilities as a performer. Kudos. I don’t know what is more dramatic, the changes in Obelix and Athena, or in you. I have recorded video series for computer training before and know how hard it is. You do a great job and pass along some wonderful information. I am also refitting a sailboat, a Columbia 10.7 in Waukegan, IL. Unfortunately, it’s much harder to live aboard such a boat in the Great Lakes. The water often freezes hard. Boats come out of the water every year. My plan is to get my boat fully refitted for living aboard, and then sailing over to Europe. The ideal scenario would be to spend the summer up in and around your area and then sail down to the Med for the winter. But that will be several years from now. Keep up the good work!
Take the cast elbow to a competent welding shop. Drill out the hole to make sure it is not a stress crack. Have them braze it up and it should last a very long time. Never did cast brazing for a marine environment but there is no reason that it wont last. Consider vibration pads for the motor feet and the engine room will be silent but deadly...or spiffy!
Hi Mads, great video as usual. I don’t normally comment, but on your tank mounts I’m concerned that you are pulling outwards on the tank tabs and stressing the tank corner unnecessarily - and risking a fatigue crack. A better approach would be to use a sleeve on the bolt which will take the clamp load and a pair of mount rubbers between the sleeve and the tank to hold the tank in position without unduly stressing it. If this method is not clear I can send you a sketch..
Hi Mads. The optimum material for the exhaust bend would be super duplex also known as SAF2507 or German Werkstoff nummer 1.4410. However it will be very expensive, so you could settle for the standard Volvo solution, and accept to change it when worn out. Regarding your hightech diesel tank, you should get some copper grease for the treads on all the bolts for the lids sticking out the top of the tank in order to prevent coldwelding between the nuts and bolts. If that happens, and it happens really easy, you will never get the nuts of the bolt again without having to cut the bolt of. However being a sailer you may allready know that. Super project and great videos, I love your perfectionism and high standards. Br. Tom
Tef Gel.
Try rescue the exhaust elbow by sandblasting it and have a good welder weld the weakend areas, I did that with an old Volvo once and it worked a treat. And, nice engine compartmant!
Hi Mads I would be suspect of that exhaust elbow. On the top ,or outside of the bend there seams to be an epoxy patch, rite at the place where turbulence would wash and Carole the medal away causing a week point or pinhole. I would definitely replace it with oem or a diy solution. DIY often turns out to be a better solution.
Great watching your progression thru this refit. It's going to be beautiful and solid when it's all complete.
Cheers
That engine space is looking good Mads. Just reading these viewer comments I don't think I'll be going anywhere near Volvo when the time comes. I'm sure you'll find a sensible solution.
Oh no, now you've given my wife ideas about replacing the sound insulation in our engine compartment. I think I will have to watch your videos when she's not around. Seriously though, we love what you've done in the engine compartment, it is beautiful to look at. Cheers.
Great vid. A suggestion: see if you can edit in a "before picture" once in a while. It might be interesting to show the progress especially for those who are new to the channel who might not have seen how far you've come.
Hi Mess I have been following your TH-cam channel for a few years and would love to own an Albin Ballad one day. I am an Aircraft Engineer and was interested in the Exhaust Pipe from the Heat Exchanger problems you have. The O ring seals that you have bought you could of sourced from else where they are very expensive and the Exhaust hole you could get it welded and then low pressure test it by blanking the ends and having one adapted with a bicycle wheel valve and pump it up with a bicycle hand pump to see if it is still leaking. I really enjoy the whole TH-cam adventure and watch each episode Craig
After you get you a new elbow..... Take the old one and get it grazed or welded in the weak area(s) and keep it for an emergency replacement in case of breakdown in some remote place. Maybe it can be repaired and then ceramic coated(no idea if it can be done or if it would work) Just a thought to save some money later on.peace and fair winds buddy.
Brazed or welded....dang auto-correct.
Blistering cold lol. Here's a better substitute. An old sailor would say " cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey" some might think the saying is somehow off color. Is not it refers to in the old days they kept the Canon balls on a bronze rack that when it got super cold would shrink enough to drop the balls on the deck causing mayhem. when out to sea your ammo might just roll off the deck and out the scuppers or perhaps down the steps ruining someone's day. Love the videos keep them coming.
You’re in custom yacht super spiffiness with that engine compartment. Athena is going to rock the boatyard when she’s done. Congrats
Love the ER, clean and bright!!!!
I was happy with the light situation in my engine compartment, thanks for yet another item on my to do list!
My last comment did not post, so this might seam out of order. I was saying you can see if you can find a welding shop in your area that is able to fix your exhaust pipe so you won’t have to spend that much money on a new one. I know in the US there are welding shops that can fix it, since a lot of exhaust manifolds on cars and trucks are cast iron. Good luck and keep up the great work you are doing.
Great progress! Tanning booth, here we come!
Great job on the engine compartment. Don't forget to put a light over the fuel tank also. Rather then a dimmer, you might want separate switches for the lights (port and stbd) and then you can have one, the other or both. Get your solid gold o-ring sizes and go to the local car part or hardware store and buy spares. The suggestion to paint parts different color based on what year it was worked on is a really good idea. Also, when they were going to sell the boat they probably painted all the hoses, so it isn't an alarm bell. But never paint a flexible hose. Painting it will hide possible problems. around the access to the compartment just take strips of the left over material and tape it on. If you are worried about it being bumped out, use the thinner material.
wow Mads, that's one impressive engine compartment.
Hi Mads, have you thought of having someone make you a set of metal end caps for the heat exchanger? I think those plastic caps are causing the leak. I would clean off the corrosion where is was leaking beneath the aft end of the heat exchanger with a wire bush and paint. With a fresh surface, you will be able to watch it to see if the leak/corrosion comes back. Regards, Ken.
Very good work! I can officially inform you that I have watched all 107 videos! And I look forward to further work from you! big thumbs up!
great episode Mads. The engine compartment is truly spiftacular :) Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan
Oh, fine! Now I’ll need to redo my engine compartment! Haha! Thanks for another great vid, they continue to inspire. My timetable is September 2019
Mas, I see when you removed the hose on the exhaust hose that someone painted over it. Although it's nice to have what looks like a nice new engine to show off to all your friends, I'd rather know just what's going on. I would assume that someone has painted your engine to hide age or issues. I would check it out very very carefully. Volvo parts aren't always the easiest to get in some corners of the world I hear. I took my heat exchanger to a radiator shop where they boiled it out for me in a chemical bath for 5 dollars. It came out like brand new!! NICE!
I am ecstatic that you took my advice of using removable divider in the engine compartment.
Yeah. That's one heck of a bright engine compartment. Two enthusiastic (and sunburnt) thumbs up! And Bitumen pronunciation is just fine.
Gawd, I wish my engine was sitting outside the engine compartment when I had to clean the heat exchanger! BTW, a slightly acidic solution cleans the tubes nicely. When I bought the boat, mine were 90% plugged. A little vinegar worked amazing!
Mads, find a Hydraulic Supply and make a list of any seals and parts you may need. Then go to a good helpful auto supply and get several pairs of o rings that you may need to store away for those sure to need future repairs and some rolls or sheets of gasket material to be able to make your own gaskets of any type. If you ever have to replace a motor, Yanmar!!! Oh ya, You're the Mad Man!!!
The mechanical fasteners are a good idea, mostly because the method we employ to remove adhesive is with heat guns. I'm pretty sure that heat guns won't be necessary to remove the adhesive in an operating engine compartment.
I'm also impressed with your method of applying the insulation. That is the exact same technique I teach my crew. Props on figuring it out without any instruction.
At 11:11 you talk about making the exhaust elbow out of stainless. One of the reasons the elbow is made out of lower class material is that it needs to be sacrificial, the cylinder head part is an alloy , stainless would eat away your engine head... hence stick to original parts...unless you want to sacrifice your wallet ;)
Damn Spiffy Engine Bay! Congrats!
Mads--just a couple of $$$-saving points:
1. Get an 'O'-ring kit (NAPA or other), and you'll have all the o-rings (all sizes) you'll ever need for the rest of your life, for just a few bucks, presupposing you have a good tube of super-glue. I've tested mine to 3,000 psi for over 30 years without a failure.
2. On 'Sailing Emerald Steel', Jules shows how to make an exhaust elbow for a small fraction of the new one you bought. I think total cost for the parts was less than $50--perhaps as little as $30.
Best of luck,,,
Which video on Emerald Steel?
John Rice , I would like to know which video as well , thanks
Exhaust elbow. Maybe a heliarc weld with a 309 or 316 stainless cover which will delay further corrosion and add long life on the part. Of course multi passes required but an easy solution . After many years in the business maybe a smart less expensive repair.
Loving the tanning bed.
Great video! Very helpful, I'm about to rip into our 2 D2-40's, I appreciate you putting this together! Well done.
that's awesome ! ....gotta love an engine compartment that looks like an operating theatre 😁
Absolutely first rate work! Brilliant...
You could make the divider for engine compartment out of plexi-glass so you could still see your beautiful diesel tank. ;)
athena is looking nice. have been watching since last spring and it looks like alot of progress has been made on her. well done and can't wait to see her in the water again.
+Sail Life: Hello, Mads! Welcome to the _exceptionally_ and _ridiculously_ "proud of our stuff" world of 'Valvo!' Can you say "Wonderful Whoopee! I've been _SHAFTED_ by a sharp Valvo stick? Ding-Dong-Dang it!" Those O-rings aren't made of ground up unicorn horn , rather some equally abstruse Volvo rare-rubber, secretly used on the exhaust end of their Volvo/Saab jet engines... And, that unicorn horn? It's now firmly lodged in your nether parts, right thru the billfold...
All that said, I feel your pain. This weekend was an experience in small engine, two-cycle kind, repair. Oh, glorious greasy schmutz and tiny parts! Thus, I do know _ALL_ about it! As to the crusty exhaust elbow, it's just an "exhaust part," right? No water running around it? If so, follow the advice given to thread the engine end of the elbow such that another similar, but much less costly, piece/part can be screwed to it. That way, you're not the screw-ee, but the screw-or?
As always, enjoyed your video very much. Lifted me right out of that two-cycle fog! You get a 'thumbs up' for your effort--- plus a spiffy t-shirt order. Whoopee! Keep it all coming, my good man!
New viewer here who is looking for and finding inspiration after binge-watching over the last couple of weeks. We've just bought a 32 footer for restoration, our first project, and your videos really do help.
O-rings aren't all the same, but most are neoprene (ish) and should be cheap (no need to buy expensive Kalrez from DuPont for this application). Go to a hydraulic supplier and be shocked how cheap they are.
The "tanning bed"... Nice!
Great video Mads once again love the new sun tan box 😂😂😂
Your engine is only using single Jubilee clips / hose clamps. I believe using dual clamps each is good practice. Thanks for the videos.
The crusty white stuff looks like calcareous deposit which forms as a result of an anode doing its job to protect the engine corroding. 316 suffers from pitting and crevice (localised) corrosion which is no good for exhausts as it tunnels through the wall. 400 series stainless corrode uniformly like carbon steel and are what car stainless exhausts are made of. If you want it to be shiny forever then super-duplex or six moly stainless is the badger 👍
I've occasioned the high cost of OEM parts before and discovered that "O" rings are pretty standard in the industry. Those parts would have probably cost you less than $2 for all four had you bought them from an industrial gasket supplier. The last time I needed one the sales agent just gave it to me and told me to look him up when I had a larger order. For proper size you only need bring the housing with you to the gasket supplier.
That what I thought. The exchange unit itself is disgustingly priced. Walde sailing had to get one . $3000.... It's a bloody tea strainer
Thou shalt not keep an engine coming from Volvo Marine if there's a good reason to get rid of it (like a heat exchanger failure ...)
I totally agree these companies are so good at making us believe you must only buy their replacement parts,and as they also know many people would not know where else to go or how to find parts, they charge any price they want, know most will say omg but pay, service and re-furb kits can be the same!!! a total rip off, they come with a few washers and o rings and cost nearly as much as replacing the whole part!l
Indeed -- look in the yellow pages for "Seal Suppliers" or "Hydraulic Spares". Most bearing supply houses also sell O-rings. And bearing (eg ball, roller, needle, taper roller etc) are also generic standard and cost cents on the dollar when you buy them from industrial wholesalers. Don't go for cheap Chinese ones, though ... at least, not yet.
Use a roller that you can lean on to help add more pressure to your blocks of foam. I use it for weatherstripping also. Anyway, looks great.
Great video, learned so many things. Thank you. And I agree the price of the o-rings is outrageous.
Love the tanning bed! 🐬
I feel your engine pain my friend. Unable to take it anymore I finally made the leap of faith and switched to an electric motor. No more smell, no more noise, no more diesel fuel, no more oil filters, no transmission, no more $80 O-rings and only a small fraction of the maintenance. The difference is unbelievable. And unfortunately that beautiful engine compartment you created won’t stay that way for long. My only regret is not doing it sooner.
For the exhaust elbow consider the por15 engine enamel. Amazing stuff!
I wouldn't care if the video was in black and white, I just love all of them. Great job.
Pushing Max Spiffy on the engine compartment Mads. Never seen one so nice.
Wow!!!!!! That looks nice...Great job! Well done...
K
Hi If is cast iron you can use special rod to weld it. Any engineer shop who work with engine should be able to fix it for a fraction of the money, old cast iron manifold used to crack. When you change your o ring, always is good practice wet them with some washing liquid, in UK (fairy liquid). Some people use oil. But personally I prefer this. Good luck, everything is looking amazing.
"Damn. That looks spiffy as heck" ... the highest compliment possible.
Nice one Mads 👍
Great job with the engine compatment! 'got a VolvoPenta MD2040 and the exhaust elbow was clogged at the seawater inlet (which caused a seawater overpressure and a leak to the primary coolant). From the outside it looked like yours (partly rusted). I redrilled the seawater inlet, cleaned and repainted the thing and it works fine. Maybe get a quote for a spiffy rebuilt from duplex steel (1.4462) or alloy 625 (which should last forever). You can get EPDM O-rings from the shelf in any size for cents...
Great work, as usual. Do yourself a favor and use high temp antisieze (copper base) on every threaded moment on that engine (can get it at an automotive supply). Future you will be thankful. Also anytime there are mineral or rust build up I use CLR, wonderful stuff. Would make that part you were washing, or any other look like new (environmentally safe, won't hurt your part). Have a beautiful week.
Use the alu tape to cover up the black edges of sound proofing
Removable panel between engine and fuel tank = Good idea.
As for the engine bay, you're into Spinal Tap territory!
Your Spiffy-ness meter just went up to 11!
I hope that you measured those O-rings made out of unobtainium so when you need a spare set you can just go to a place that sells hydraulic parts and buy another 4 of them for a couple of dollars. Also I hope you used some silicone grease (also called plumbers grease) on them when you put everything back together.
So just like the comments on the O-rings that say buy them from an auto parts store, you may also wish to buy new belts from an auto parts store before you reinstall the engine. Send the measurements to Ava and she could ship them from the US much cheaper. Don't tell them it' a Volvo, though. A separate engine log is also a good idea.
Hello. Nice work. Just so you know the engine is in fact not a volvo engine it's a Perkins 400 series/CAT. What makes it volvo is the marine parts. The heat exchanger/pump etc. If you need any parts for the engine itself try Perkins or CAT as they will possibly be cheaper. looks like a 404/22 to me.
Ian C carefull Volvo does manufacture there own enigines though they make look almost the same, do the research d2 is a Volvo engine if I am not mistaken
@@tylerharris3907 . Hi. The Volvo Penta D'series below 2.2 litre is a Perkins/CAT engine. They add the marine parts and paint it green. The core engine is the same.originally a Japanese design from ISM JV with Perkins. I know this becasue I am working on the Perkins 400 series engine Stage 5 and I see them going down the production line . Good engines . Robust and simple.
Hi. Great work again geez. Just a thought on the divider for the engine bay, can I suggest you make a template of the area before you get the engine in. I agree with your original idea, but you may find that having a template might make the divider fit better once you work out how you can install it with the engine in place. I just think you'll struggle to get decent dimensions for the divider with the engine in place. Any who "as you would say", your doing an amazing job so keep doing what your doing. On another note, your missus is doing well also. I received my stickers with a thank you note very promptly after ordering them. See you! Oh dear, I seem to be turning into you.
Just a suggestion. I recommend when you replace fix parts which require removal to fix, you paint the new parts a different color based on the year replace/repaired (e.g. this year red, next year yellow, the year after blue etc). After a few years you will instantly recognize the amount of work you've performed on the engine and also know in advance what really needs the maintenance. It is a sure fire way to being able to predict future failures and it does make an interesting topic of discussion when giving a tour or sundowners... Just sayin it would be very 'Spiffy'!
p.s. I've done this for the last 30 years on all the engines I've owned (including aircraft engines) and it really is amazing what you can start predicting after a few years. ;)
Md Wills Nice Idea!!
I have no experience with engine repair at all, but I was thinking that as he was doing his heat exchanger repair. Just clean and repaint whatever you just serviced or replaced, yes your engine would look patchwork but you'd have a good picture of what means maintain to replace the most.
Engine room needs a log book for maintenance, checklists and time schedule for replacements and cleaning. The big boat engine rooms do it, but yachts should too. Now I have given you 3 cents for what it's worth.
I've never thought about your suggestion, but that's a perfect idea! Your engine may look like the Partridge Family bus, but it'll make maintenance easier. Good job!
Love the longer videos.
again, your work is very impressive!! Barney
I have to chuckle, because often times I have that "sneaky suspicion" that I've ordered the wrong parts too. Concerning Volvo engines, cruising friends always advised me to steer clear of them simply because of the expense for repairs and replacement parts compared to other options. For my budget anyway. Not bad engines, just wicked expensive.
Find your calipers and see the sizes of those O rings. Order some spares from stock sizes. Probably just a few dollars not 20 Euro each. That elbow doesn't look that far gone. A shop should be able o tig braze it no problem. Even if you have a new one a spare isn't a bad idea.
True, but ultimately, ditching the shi**y Volvo tick priced boutique shop item is the best solution. An oversized (in terms of thickness) replacement made from random and custom made parts would result in a more cost effective solution down the road.
The engine itself isn't even worth the effort, it appears to be another engine, Perkins, that's been sprinkled with Volvo parts.
barnacle buster! it takes of care all the "white crumply stuff" inside heat exchanger
I would cover the exposed, foam core edge of the soundproofing with the foil tape. I believe it would give a cleaner look.
Hello! Great work again! one suggestion though: the frames around the engine compartment windows would be really useful to cover. You can do it separately - than put aluminium tape to cover the surface unevenness between the frame insulation and the wall insulation surface.
Wonderful video.
Looks great!
Great video Mads. Penta roughly translates to "5 or more time price". Add marine and there you have it.
I agree with what many have said. Lubricate O rings, torque cover, spec replacements, and tape exposed wires and edge of insulation.
Mads, I say this with the authority of someone who has never mounted an LED lamp to sound insulation.
With the spirit of hindsight, I would have suggested to poke a hole in the insulation, and pass the wires behind the insulation to have it look neater. You can still use the aluminum tape to cover up the wires, though.
That Engine Room reminds me of Star Wars. 🤣 And it will definately win in a beautycontest of Engine Rooms. 🏆
You know ...I didn't here spiffy once on that engin carpartment so I'll say if for you DANG SPIFFY!! if I do say so myself. 😎😎
The exhaust elbow??? seeing that I fabricate alot of own own stuff it would be a breeze for you to have the guys who made your diesel tank to manufacture you an exhaust elbow out of 3/16 stainless schedule 80 although schedule 40 would work as well.
There is no way that you would burn through that in your life guaranteed or your money back.!!!
As always
Fairwinds from the
@captainschair
Hey mads, thanks for the stickers! When ya do engine work it will pay off if you use anti seize on all your fasteners and use a torque wrench when you can to get an idea of proper torque if your not used to it. Leaks love improper torque.
Also... a normal dimmer may not work with the LEDs. Bias needs a specific voltage and most leds are on or off. Ya may need a PWM, i posted about it last week.
Mads, that why I'll never have a green monster on a boat I own...
Good idea to use those plastic discs for securing isolation sheets, even the the glue feels gripping really well, sheets starts falling sooner or later (i have 11 years experiense of building
and maintaining ventilation units and
we used the same type material).
Most Volvo engines have a Perkins counterpart and the Perkin's parts are often 25% that of Volvo. You may want to check that out. For things like O-Rings, you don't need to buy them from Volvo anyway. Just get the size and order them from a gasket supplier. You'll end up paying about 1/50th the price.
Love the videos! If you ever wanted to do a review of your standalone diesel / kerosene heater, is gobble it up. Been looking to buy one for ages!
Entertaining as always thank you
Mads, I didn't catch what else is holding the fuel tank in? The standard for seaworthiness, is whatever it takes to keep big heavy important things in their place when the boat rolls upside down. A seaworthy boat must be able to roll upside down, right itself, and remain functional afterwards. Two strong bolts are enough, but located off center will allow the tank to rotate.
Nice tanning room!
That compartment is lookin great. Good job. take that elbow to a machinist and get them to build you a better version than what you have now. Peace and be safe out there.
you need to put led Glow Lights in the Engine compartment for Effect at least 4 colors
go to a Rubber and Seal supplier in your city--they should be able to supply you with proper O-rings, maybe even upgrade the material over Volvo at a FRACTION of the cost! Buy spares, you will be inside the heat exchanger more than you can imagine--seal your spare rubber parts in plastic-important. Replace any gaskets, get spares. Replace all hose clamps and add spares to your kit----Mikey
Hi! I recently came across your channel and have been binge watching. Loving what you are going! Spiffy! :) I know this is a year or more to late to be of any use, but My touch of OCD would have made me use the thinner insulation on the access hole frames and then use the metal tape to seal from foam to the frame. I will wait until I see what you have done. on to the next video..
Apparently, you also have to watch out for scale build up on the interior tubes of the heat exchange. I can't remember whose video it was, but all of their tubes were clear. The engine would still overheat due to a slight scale on the tubes preventing proper heat transfer. It looked like just a discoloration and was corrected with a mild acid bath. $86 for o-rings is highway robbery!
Soak the heat exchanger core in vinegar overnight to dissolve any build up inside. Great video. Thanks