HOW TO INSTALL BATTERY ISOLATOR AND CHOOSE WHAT TYPE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Made for those who have limited knowledge or experience of battery isolators. All the basics of a battery isolator, plus step by step installation in a chevy Astro Van. I describe what a battery isolator is, how it works, diode vs relay battery isolators, how the wiring works, and basic safety tips to show that anyone can choose and install a battery isolator on their vehicle. Whether you have a stealth camper van like mine, for a car stereo system, camper, rv, or need to power high wattage power tools, you will find this video helpful.
Stinger 200 amp Battery Isolator Affiliate Amazon Link: amzn.to/1Uvjs1P
Noco (Diode type) Battery Isolator Affiliate Amazon Link: amzn.to/1mEJVyY
4 Gauge Wiring Kit Affiliate Amazon Link: amzn.to/1mEJzsk
0 Gauge Wiring Kit Affiliate Amazon Link: amzn.to/1UvjCGy
0/4 Gauge Fuse Holder Affiliate Amazon Link: amzn.to/1Uvk6fQ
Information on wire size (use fuse rated for max amps of wire size): www.imstricken0...
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I know this is an old post so someone has probably mentioned this but for a cheap conduit under the vehicle we have always used just plain garden hose. I'm sure a metal conduit would be better but we have never had a problem with the garden hose as long as you do like you did and don't let it rub on sharp metal surfaces. They make a cheap blue plastic ribbed flexible conduit as well.
Dude I've studied electronics for years and though your video isn't perfect but it's dam good. You did good stuff. Great way to get out of crimping the wire by soldering. That solder is actually better than crimping it. You reminded me of a younger me fooling around with this stuff.
12:56 Minor correction. The blue Splice connector does NOT require stripping the insulation. They are designed to use as is and will pierce the insulation as you squeeze the metal part into the connector. That make contact with both wires through the insulation.
Great video. I was taught in diesel school to never rely on solder, first make a mechanical connection. A punch and a hammer can make a dimple to provide a solid mechanical connection that won't come loose like solder.
A great way to protect wires when passing through metal, is to use an old piece of rubber hose (radiator hose, etc), and split it and tape it.
+Tryor Die Oh thats a GREAT idea! Thanks!
Chris Phoenix
good advise.. was gonna give it myself but you way beat me to it..
or a old bicycle tube.
That connector you use at around 12:40 is called a Scotchlock, and they are not very good in my opinion. They work to a point but the contact area is small and eventually they will get a bad connection when installed in an engine bay. The grease inside the connector will melt out with the temperature changes under the bonnet. I would highly recommend stripping the cables (without cutting the switch source) and soldering your positive coil cable, then cover the whole joint with silicone sealant for a permanent fix.
As Kearess said in the comments, no need to strip the cables if you really must use a scotchlock, but the connector must be the right size for the cable, or you can have poor contact on thin cable, or cut cores on thicker cables potentially causing the cable to burn out.
I would only ever use them for real low power, non-critical connections. And only as a last resort/temporary fix.
good video, thanks.
M Baker great advise love it, great point
i hate them damn connectors, should be banned. they always fall off or cut the wire from vibration over time. total junk, nothing beats solder and liquid electrical tape/heat shrink.
Thank you for the video.
I've never heard anyone pronounce "auxiliary" the way you do.
My heart also found the comment section because you really explained every safety point all in one video. They should be included in every video in my opinion. Just so young guys with no experience don't miss the important details.
Bet that's an empowering feeling to have it all done. Good work!
+Dan Travels It felt GREAT!
Either do I. I understand if the Van is off, the second won't charge off the main.
But it doesn't explain how the auxiliary battery won't be forever charging when the van is running. So if I'm driving for like 10 hours the second battery is charging too?
I assumed there would be some kind of auto shut off when the auxiliary was fully charged, or maybe a manual one like a switch on the dash.
Does the isolator have a shut off when the auxiliary battery is full?
Also, what are the output limits of this system? How many batteries and what size batteries can be used as the auxiliary? Is there a ratio of the size of the alternator to battery size(s) to the time needed to run the van to fully charge this system?
Should this system include a larger alternator upgrade too?
The alternator itself will not send current if it recognizes that the voltage on its output wire is already high (the wire going to the vehicle's onboard battery.) As he mentioned in the video, nearly all alternators are built this way--at least on American cars; I have been told Europe and some newer vehicles have the voltage control separate from the alternator. Either way, the alternator is told to only work when needed. By having both batteries connected to the alternator in this way, they will share the same voltage--even if one has significantly larger capacity. Think of it like a rechargeable battery station at your house being able to charge either AAA or D cell batteries; both are 1.5V, but one has 10 times the total energy available.
Awesome job! You are the younger brother I've always wanted.
+NoProGoPronto Thanks woohooo!
best isolator explanation/comparison yet - thumbs up
"you only get one body" thats right brother love the safety precautions you have taken and explained. especially with the numerous times mentioning "remove the negative battery post cable" thanks for the great info/tutorial.
Great job and awesome video detailing the process!!. I went the old school way and just put the manual isolator switch in. I located my switch near the side doors of the van near my battery box. With your solar setup as the primary source for charging your batteries, this is an excellent backup device on cloudy days when you are driving. Good luck with it!
+VanGo Adventures Thanks! So you just use the alternator to power you aux bank when you need it? How much solar do you have? with my 100 watts I'd say the alternator is definitely my source of charge, and the solar just helps, especially when camping.
Big thumbs up!! Thanks for showing the detailed install, you answered all my questions on it, much appreciated!!
Awesome!
Watched almost all of your videos don't know how I missed this gem. Great explanations!
Man, your Channel getting better and better. Great advice again. Thanks and stay safe.
+Stephan Kluge Thank you
I see you have the 200 amp isolator, any reason you went with he 200 instead of the 500? Maybe more strain on the alternator? Love all of the vids man keep it up!
Question: Any issues or how is your auxiliary battery & alternator doing now here in 2018? Update plz
12:48 No need to strip te cable dude! Just put in the cables. The metal part will cut trough the isolation and will make contact with the wire. Keep up the nice work!!
You're right Kearress. With a splice connector you do not need to strip it and in fact will fit tighter if you don't.
And that is called a "Scotch" or "Scotchlok" connector for those wondering.
Thank you for the most detailed isolator installation video out on youtube👍😆✌
+VanKind That's exactly what I was going for! Thanks!
Nice clean job. And you're incredibly articulate.
+1, Subbed, and Thank You from south Fla.
That's a "Scotch connector" and they are regarded as pretty unreliable but usually sufficient with light gauge wire (16-20). In a vibration environment they will fail sooner or later. Thanks again and looking forward to checking out more videos!
yes sir you did a fantastic job on that battery isolater thankyou!
Great to see a good installation! Seen so many wierd videos here that don't explain this dual batteries installation in a good way like you do. crimp the cable is actually better then soder it.
One old car technician say Smal voltage you solder cars you crimp and use shrink tube over.
Just fyi...The Scotch connectors are made to use without stripping the insulation. Works better to leave it on. The metal will slice through and contact , and the insulation will keep more debris and moisture out.
Great video! Easy to understand!! I will be doing this kind of set up in my van soon.. I feel a bit better about the task after watching this video!! Thanks!!
Alittle long of a video but well worth it when making sure im doing this right! appreciate your time and effort, very informative and very very helpful! Im drawing in a coffee shop exactly what your showing us lol.
Great video. The information just melts right in..just melts right in. Seriously though, very informative, helped me through my install.
+Willie Smith awesome!
simple and easy to follow instructions. Nice video. Just what I needed.
Have you considered making a trap door above your battery for easier access? Also 1/2" or 5/8" garden hose will work as a great wire loom to protect the cable under the van.
+Allen Schwinn Yeah but this was probably the last time I'll have to access it until I replace it. Thanks for the tip on the loom!
hey Jed just going back over some of your older videos and learning all I can. thanks for this video I was wondering about this type of system
+Riens Overu you got it!
How can I wire the battery isolator so that I can flip it ON/OFF with a switch (if I want to charge the AUX battery using my alternator)?
Also important: when finding your 12v ignition source - you need to make sure the circuit you are tapping into can handle up to an additional 1 amp being drawn through it (this is what a lot of these large solenoids require to close the circuit - check your documentation for the actual number). Don't just use a multi-meter to find any wire that shows 12v when the key is in the "run" position.
7:32 Cleaner to use heat shrink tubing to seal the cable ends on the terminal.@ 12:48 The little blue plastic splice is called a "T-Tap"; (for tapping into existing 12v switched or ignition wire).
One thing to note is if you have a bad starter battery, it could be keeping your aux battery from getting a good charge. A few months back I installed an isolater and whenever I would measure the voltage across the aux battery, with the engine running, I was only getting about 13 volts. Well, yesterday it got into the 20s F and the starter battery finally died. This morning, I replaced the battery and now I am getting something like 14.6 volts.
Good work. I can't wait to dive into projects of my own when I get things figured out what I am going to do to start traveling full-time. I do have a battery project coming up for my RV so I can do more boondocking in the spring and fall. From an alternator you could potentially see that voltage go as high as 16.0 volts. but you are probably aware of that now with your research.
Thanks for sharing!
Jed
+NDNomad Thanks Jed! Best of luck on your endeavors!
ive seen a couple of these videos. I see that you use a very thick gauge wire 2 or 4 gauge about the same size as the terminal wires connecting the main batter to the engine. my question is this. it seems on yours and other videos the wire you are using is more flexible than what they use on the terminals already in the car. what kind of wire and or where do I get it?
Excellent tutorial !!!I'm enjoying your videos and your journey!
I was waiting for someone to hit on this topic, thank you 13
np!
it is always best to crimp/hammer your connector so that there is a good mechanical connection before soldering for long term reliability
Also, fuses/circuit protection always goes at your "source", where you put the fuse will not protect your wiring from the engine to your 2nd battery.
Great video man!!! Im just going back & watching some older videos for tips! HAHA ( I just ordered my solar panels tonight!!!) can't wait to use the solar controller and power inverter!!!!! ;D
thx for taking the time on this!
LOL You had me rollin' @ 4:35 when you got "shocked." Hey thanks buddy for the alligator videos. lol Last night I woke up at 2 am after I dreamt that there were two alligators in my van! :-)
+Vanmyster94 hahahaha oh no! Bad news, I'm heading to the everglades and going to swim with them!
Bud you've got some skills! It took me three day and an unfortunate 80$ mistake to get mine installed😂
+Van Roamer Thanks man, ouch! At least you didn't fry a battery or worse.
Good job dude. Helped me a little. And 14.6 volts is great to have.
+Brian Fisher awesome!
Good video, but you forgot about another kind of isolator, which is a voltage sensitive relay, that is not tied to the ignition source and worked bassed off of battery voltage
Need to SAVE this! Thanks. I might actually lift up my hood and look inside my engine compartment! (Lol... will you be my adopted grandson?) Take care!
I gave you a thumbs up, even though I didn't understand most of what you said. Will have to show this to a mechanic friend to get a dumbed down version. I want to know about what you found out about the alternator because I heard somewhere that you were supposed to have a beefed up alt to do this. Thanks for sharing.
Haha thanks! I found out that the alternator output was perfect. The factory alternator in this van is 105 amps so its a higher output. Some of the older vahicles are lowerout and since i didnt have this issue i dont know if its an issue at all.
Hey. This is great information! I am thinking of installing one of these myself. Good job!
Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO MY MAN! I’ve been trying to figure out how to find the live wire to do mine installation right on the spot just what I need it, THANKS my brother great job big “thumbs up” god bless
Right on, happy to help
Good video you should get a lot of views for this one.
+S. McCloy Thanks, I sure hope
I was looking into installing one as well so this helps a lot! thanks!
+The Amazing Odyssey (Tiff Tito) Oh awesome! I'm so glad to help!
You're Very Talented! Baddass👍👍
+Gino Gambino Thanks Gino!
2 BIG thumbs up bro. I may do that to my van while I'm saving for solar. Definitely beats carrying a small generator and battery charger around.
+Arkansas Mike Oh yeah, I'd rather have this than solar. Very nice to have!
+Arkansas Mike And thanks buddy!
Oh man, I was installing the same Stinger one you have and broke off one of the bolts for that go to the batteries. I wanted to get the cables on tight because to make sure the cables can move and touch since all the electrodes are kind of close together. So I over tightened the nut and it broke off one of the big bolts. Yeah, it was my fault but it seems like the thing should have been built a little stronger.
Great job. Looking to do this on my Savana. Thanks for sharing.
+Brian Peterson Thanks! Have fun!
Hey man. Good video. My buddy gave me an isolator today. It's an older diode one. The one that he gave me says its 70 amp on it, but its probably about 1/3 or so of the size of the one in your video. Do you see anything strange about that? The good news is that the van that I bougnt has the cable already hooked up and run into the van for an isolator. Its got the fuse and everything. I think the guy who had it before me had subwoofers and stuff in it and thats what he was using it for.. Thanks!
WOW you are good at this....good cadence.
Thank you!
I am glad you showed this video, I have an isolator that is not hooked up I have to charge dual batteries separately. Now I know how to hook it up. I am guessing at that point both start and Aux batteries must be the same capacity so one does not drag the other down or does the alternator take care of it efficiently enough? Those blue connectors are called scotch locks I DO NOT use them, corrosion experts those are lol
+Tioga Trails Oh I'm glad it helped! I don't understand your question. Are asking if both batteries need to be the same charge when isolator is hooked up to start the vehicle?
No, I was wondering if say for example you have one 1,000 CCA battery and one 750 CCA battery, does that bother the isolator at all?
excellent video and we'll made 👍😊👍
Thanks man!
(OX-ZIL-R-REEE)
Still one of the best videos on YT. Thanks again brother. What size wire did you use to connect to the AC relay? Cheers.
+justin dahl thanks! 16 ga
Great video! Good Job bro!! I love your videos!!
3:50 True Ignition source. 12:20 under the fuse box. I know there are dc-to-dc chargers with a built-in true ignition source relay feature. Anybody know of an inverter with this feature?
Nice Vid man, I like how you go into some actual detail in it! You have inspired me to start saving for a van of my own so I can Vandwell myself!!!
+sterlingrudy No way! That's awesome man!
+Into The Mystery 13 Are you planning on doing this forever or are you just doing it for fun, then later down the road taking up a normal lifestyle?
I can't see myself being stuck in one place, paying rent, or working all the time to do that any time soon. I work far less in the van and travel all the time. I love this life! That said, I'm a much different person than I was even a year ago, let alone 5 years ago, so the future is wide open I live for the now. I doubt I'll ever stop, I love it too much. Hope that helps!
+sterlingrudy I'm adding this to my list of videos to make btw. Great question!
My plan is to do it for a year after college so I can see the country and kinda find myself, also gives me a chance to do some freelance web design work (what I'm going to college for) for a little bit! But if it turns out being something I enjoy, It sounds like a blast. You should also do a video on your thoughts on relationships while living in a van, How do you pick up a chick at the bar and be like, wanna come to my place then get in your van haha!!!
Great Job Man
Thumbs up every time buddy great video
+The crazy man from Ireland. Thanks man!
Do you think it is worth to review or create video of True brand dual battery isolator. It is waterproof, vibration proof and heat resistant.
Nice work and informative video!😀👍🏽😀
+Van Go Ventures Thank you!
Does the voltage regulator in the alternator prevent overcharging of the house batteries or should you install a charge controller between the isolator and house batteries as well?
+RATCHOPPER the voltage regulator on the vehicle, if functioning properly, will do the job.
+Into The Mystery 13 awesome! thanks for the response.
Great Job Man!
+Chad Prokop Thank you!
Great video. Thanks dude !
what size fuse did you put in?
I looked at the wire size info and it looks like a different article. Just wanted to let you know. If you do update it let me know because I'm interested in the information and it's hard to come by. Thanks!
Great video. Just wanted to clarify that your comment about sizing the isolating solenoid is not quite correct (although I'm not really sure what you mean by "size it to what your using it for" - because we know what it's being used for, to pass current to charge a battery). Regardless of what you use your aux battery system to power the solenoid must be able to handle, at a minimum, the max output of your alternator - ie: the solenoid should be rated a bit higher that the output of your alternator. This handles the case where your vehicle is drawing very little power, your starting battery is "full" (ie: at the regulators max voltage) and your aux battery is drained very low (in which case it will pull a TON of current).
So on this van
The heavy up positive duplicates original
Meaning:
The upgrade cable runs from battery to fuse box and from fuse box to alternator ?
The original red alternator wire is entwined in the wiring loom and then reappears at fuse box
the original positive from battery includes main cable running along front of frame and 10 guage red wire to fuse box
Or???
Best advice don’t buy cheap 0 gauge order some ofc copper sky high
Great video. Thanks
Please tell me you covered that huge wire to the rear and added a fuze up close to the alternator. If that cable touches your frame it will spark, worst case it will weld to the metal and you will have a fire... Also the blue crimp connector you use does not require you to strip the wire. It is intended to go right through the covering.
It is good to see guys do it themselves but if you do it in an unsafe manor you hurt yourself as well as others.
Not trying to be a dick btw, glad you do your own work.
Does this installation also work well on installing extra lights on a truck? And if so on my extra battery should I run the positive to the switch then from the switch to the lights?
Good job!
Thank you, enjoy your video. How can one check to see if the battery isolator is working (Stinger 200 amp) ?
Great video,you install 2 fuses one between the battery and the isolator and other from isolator and the backup battery can you explain why,follow your instructions but don't understand why two fuses,thank you for great video
well simple so both batteries and batteries cables are protected from shorts as the power cables run independently from each battery to the isolator
Eduardo silva thanks for the info,help to understand better ✌🏾️
Thanks.. you helped me out!..
How is the isolator mounted in the engine compartment? Did you use bolts or some sort of metal bonding adhesive? A mechanic friend of mine told me I shouldn't drill into the firewall to mount my isolator, that's why I'm asking.
+Platinum Dragon Productions I used self tapping sheet metal screws into the firwall. I wonder why he said that. He must know something I dont.
If I'm Using 2 batteries in my Trunk , can I use the relay isolator ? Because in total I'll Have 3 batteries (Under the Hood)
You do good work!
+fivetenonefourty On the van or videos? Either way, Thanks!
+Into The Mystery 13 I meant on the van but really both. Now update your marketplace! :)
+fivetenonefourty Thanks for the reminder! Done!
+Into The Mystery 13 yw, just ordered it and the water bandit. I appreciate all the help you give us, so happy to help with what I can. I will be ordering the Eccotemp water heater soon as I think that will be useful as well. Good luck!
The thing at 12:43 is called "quick splice connector."
+Twuan thank you!
man...that's a whole lot of mcguyvering you did there. I wanna attempt something like this but this seems way, waaaaaay over my head! You have really shown your versatility, adaptability and technical prowess here and elsewhere throughout your videos bro! I'm sure there is a great story somewhere there for you to share someday with your viewers. LOL, I totally lost ya on pink ignition wiring thingamajig. How in the world do you figure out what ANY wires are like that mean? 1. what or how do you prevent both the auxiliary and starter batteries from overcharging? I suppose that is where "charge controller" becomes imperative. 2. Suppose you're not driving and say you wanna alternate between small solar setup on your rig that is also charging the auxiliary batteries so how does that work? Or it doesn't? Is it either solar or battery isolator to charge the auxiliary batteries or could you switch between both of them: one while you're driving and the other while you're stationary?Anyway, keep up the good work. Hopefully, I'll remember to post this question on your facebook for your Thursday Q/A sessions. In any event, Stay blessed!
thanks! 1) yep charging controller, which comes with the vans factory system 2) you need a manual switch for that, they makes some good ones for boats, but im not sure when that would be helpful in this appilication.
Good job☺
Wow man, great links!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You're pretty smart. Thanks for the explanation. I had to watch it a couple times. :o)
that isolator wire to the aux battery was way over duty... but nice job man
Thanks a ton for this vid!!
Hey very helpful video, just getting into nomadic life, love all ur videos, very informative and entertaining, all the best to u and ur beautiful girlfriend, peace out
Good work! Pronounce "Auxiliary" with th-cam.com/video/lmQeDqtFyWk/w-d-xo.html
You may need a charge controller for your auxiliary battery, depending upon if it's deep-cycle or a standard car battery.
Oh, and the alternator wasn't too high, 14.6 volts is fine.
The only part I'm not clear on is how you tapped into the wiring for the "true iginition" power source. When I pull out my fuse box and look under it, all I see is a snake of wires. How did you test each wire to find one that held voltage?
I used the ignition wire coming out of the main fuse box. I used thr multimeter to double check that I had the right one. A "true ignition" source is one that has power when the ignition switch is in the "on" and "starting" function. I hope that helps!
Nice vid man I'm using a stinger 200amp relay/isolator I have it ran with 0 gauge wiring with a 250amp fuse that came with the wire is that too big of a fuse,my cars alternator is a 215amp
9:00 thats what she said haha
will a depleted secondary battery drain my crank battery once the car has started?