How to Inspect a Used Vintage Honda Motorcycle Engine: - Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- www.common-motor.com
How to Inspect your Engine Checklist: common-motor.zendesk.com/hc/e...
So one thing led to another and blew up the engine on our shop Honda CB550F. This is a situation that you may find yourself in, if you are riding these old motorcycles long enough. In this case we obtained a used junkyard engine that we know nothing about. Rather than tear down the whole thing for a rebuild (that is probably not necessary) we are going to in simply open up some of the easy to access covers and inspect as well as clean the insides of this Honda CB550 engine.
In Part 1 of this series, we are going to show you step by step how to check the top side of the engine, focusing around the camshaft and related valve train hardware (rockers, valve springs, cam chain, etc). Regardless if you are working on a CB350, CB360, CB450, CL350 Scrambler or any other vintage Honda engine from this era, inspecting some of these critical components now (before installing the engine in the frame) will make any necessary repairs easier to complete while on the bench.
Parts:
-Honda CB550/CB500k/CB750 18mm Spark Plug Socket: www.common-motor.com/honda-cb...
-Antiseize Thread Lubricant: www.common-motor.com/anti-sei...
-Honda Impact Driver: www.common-motor.com/impact-d...
Allen Bolt Kits:
-CB350 Allen Bolts:
Lower: www.common-motor.com/honda-35...
Upper: www.common-motor.com/honda-35...
-CB360 Allen Bolts:
Lower: www.common-motor.com/honda-cb...
Upper: www.common-motor.com/honda-cb...
-Cb450 Allen Bolts:
Lower: www.common-motor.com/honda-45...
Upper: www.common-motor.com/honda-45...
-CB550 Allen Bolt Kits: Coming Soon - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Looking forward to Part 2. Thanks for this new e-mail subscriber series.
I'm literally staring at my cb550 motor in my living room right now. Next paycheck and I'm gonna be blowing some cash at your online store for certain. Love this channel.
I'm restoring a couple of 1973 XL 250 Honda's and your videos are a real help. Thanks from Australia.
Before reassembling the valve cover I would suggest performing a LEAKDOWN TEST! If you've got a leaky valve now is the time to know about it and fix it before reinstalling the engine in the frame.
Boom! Looking forward to part 2. Thanks y'all. Would like to see what you use for an engine stand, recommendations, how to remove an engine from the bike (step by step), etc.
This is another video that I've been wanting. Thanks, Brenden.
Thank you for posting these videos!
If you strip down one of these motors, keep each pairs of Main bearings and pairs of big end bearings together, in separate bags and mark the bag with which journal they come from, and which was in the top or bottom crankcase. ( remember that your engine will be upside down when you do this! ) There are five Mains, and four pairs of Big end bearings. The size is marked by a blob of paint, but this will have worn off by now. On the back of the gearbox case is a series of letters stamped in a square box which tell you the diameter of the hole in the crankcase that the bearing sits in. You need the Workshop manual to look up the fitment, and some "plastiguage" to measure the wear. Seek help if your not sure!
There aren't many NOS bearings available, so don't throw them away whatever condition they are in!Fortunately the Oil pump is a rotary type and works well, provided that the Oil changes were done regularly. Oil is cheaper than bearings!
I cant figure out for the life of me why someone hasn't taken the time to make new bearings,although they wont attain Bill Gates stature they could make a nice little profit,on my 550 in the back of the case its all BBBBBB somewhat simplifying things, first time i saw that i was like "serious?" ha ha ha,those are all great tips you give,thank you,it will definitely help someone out.
My bikes engine is a mess. Thanks to Jessi for the new head cover and gaskets. Now dealing with 2 quarts of oil and a quarts of gas thats been in it since the PO and gaskets that feel JB Welded on. Haha, gotta love the old bikes. Thanks CMC for all the products and parts bringing me steps closer to being done.
Awesome video, this is very useful.
Just found your channel and really like the content. Subscribed :-)
The manual impact driver is a must have.
Looking forward to part 2, I have a xl350 engine on the table and a full seals kit, but maybe i should not try to use all of them and tear it down hmmmm
lovely
Thanks for giving us email subs first crack at the video. Well done! Thanks!! Zip~
Newsletter subscribers always get videos, coupon codes and part releases first!
The biggest problem with the 500-550-650 4 cylinder engines are the head gaskets leaking oil. There's passageways on the sides of the cylinder block going up through the head to feed the top end. They're sealed up with O-rings and they fail. They've updated the materials in them but they eventually start to leak again. Virtually every one that comes into my shop are seeping.
Can this be applied to other brands of Japanese bikes? (Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki, etc.)
Aircraft mechanic here and XL250K2 owner. Why don’t you do a leak-down check to see if the rings and valves leak? The rusty cylinder happened for a reason. Maybe that’s why the bike ended up in the Dismantlers in the first place.
I wouldn't want someone else's problems,...I would have taken the top end off, re-ringed it, done a valve job+valve seals,...timing chain & guide& tensioner,.....because its already out of the bike,....regardless of weather I'm rebuilding the other engine.
I want a dependable bike,... because walking is just wrong.
I have several stripped JIS screws on the clutch side cover of my 73 CB450 motor. They were too stripped for my manual impact driver. What’s the best way to get them out?
drill bits and screw extractors! I'd recommend replacing them with one of our allen bolt kits when you finally get them out. Makes it a lot easier for next time.
I am no mechanic , hence why I'm watching these types of videos but I am an electrician and generally we never use stainless steel screws around aluminium together in light fittings or on roofing structures etc because of the galvanic action or corrosion that is a consequence of their union without some sort of barrier. So I was surprised you replaced all the engine bolts with stainless bolts.
Believe me if they corrode in there , you are never going to get them out . You'll snap the heads off them before they give.
just wondering?
👍👍👍👍
What is that engine stand and how do I find one for my 550?!
Hahaha. Its the high performance Home Depot stand
Is it wrong turn the engine over with the kick start at time 3:15?
No.
14:40 Your "quick tip" is incorrect. When using anti-seize, the torque value to achieve the same clamp load will be lower. If anti-seize is used with the torque specified for a dry assembly, you risk exceeding the proof load of the fastener.