I use sorghum molasis mixed with alfafa hay layered with soil mixed with willow tree limbs. The willow limbs does the same thing as azos as its a rooting hormone. Ever once in awhile blend up some aloe vera leaf. Try adding rice hulls for airation. Bubbled teas are a positive along with clovers and dicon radish
Great video and other than the bulbs and tools my soil is just as poor quality as yours. Now looking back I did add peat to the trees I planted but really should have added some sand and biochar to help with drainage and give a place for microbes to survive. Just an FYI your videos do not show up on your homepage so I kept thinking you didn't post anything. Might want to make sure you have an upload bar so people will see you have videos. I'll be binge watching this over the next couple days!
I cannot thank you enough for pointing this out! I only had a video for those unsubscribed to the channel, and the rest was blank and I had no idea. Will be eventually adding some play lists in the coming weeks. Fun stuff in the works! :)
We used the Mykos in our seedlings this spring potting them up until they sold or we planted and had amazing results we also added in fox farm kangaroots liquid supplement
In a more recent clip, you SCARED the hell out of me about the use of biochar..... Question: What type of char is black barbecue char-coal? What about used burnt charcoal ashes? Thanks I tapped the thumbs up button to feed the algorithm monsters.
@NorthernThaiGardenGuy EXACTLY the answer I was looking for.... THANK YOU ! For my first two years..... I am only going to use 3 things... 1) Well composted yard materials and kitchen scraps. 2) Rice straw mulch. 3) Sparingly use 10-10-10.... There's a very good chance my plot doesn't need much help. Thanks for the feedback.
New to your channel and also living in Thailand. My question to you is about Trichoderma. You made a point that the organic coconut coir that you brought over from America does not have Trichoderma. Is Trichoderma a bad thing, I thought it was good to have? I'm just learning about these things, and thought that adding it to the soil was a good thing? Thanks, Richard
I probably should have qualified that without painting with such a broad brush. There are well over 200 species of Trichoderma (with more being discovered every year). Some of them are more predatory than others and will outcompete other Fungi (like Mycorrhizae). That was the reason I mentioned it, and I should have done a better job with what I was talking about. Thanks for pointing that out!
You and I made the same connection about AMF and biochar. I also noticed research is not abundant on the topic so thanks for the video! I wrote a report earlier this semester of potential carbon sequestration capabilities biochar amended soil’s in urban settings. I found an article for a field study conducted where biochar was shown to increase mycorrhiza abundance. It really is such a new topic for science. You talked about variability of feedstock, I was curious if you had read much on temperature of pyrolysis? I found some research suggesting to that it could change potential of biochar effectiveness on absorbing various nutrients. Like you said- so many variables
In the research I have done on this to date, Biochar is definitely not a 1 size fits all kind of amendment. It may be beneficial in the way of water retention for poor sandy soils, but honestly that is about it. I use the wood charcoal (not Biochar) to hopefully absorb heavy metals. I also use it at the bottom of my bins for Black Leaf Mold. The variation in heat during Pyrolysis definitely has an effect as well, but I have not seen enough studies to conclude one way or the other on which feedstocks are best. There seems to be some indication that Chicken manure is really good as a Biochar, but the study was limited.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy definitely not one size fits all. I had heard some research doing chicken manure biochar I think it was on one of Cornell‘s webinars posted on TH-cam but I haven’t had a chance to go through it yet.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy you mentioned poor sandy soils, I’ve read also that biochar can increase drainage of hard clay soils, while increasing cations Exchange. I think much research is needed but that it has been proven to be beneficial to a variety of soils, though I have not researched its capability to absorb heavy metals. 🙏🏼 for sharing you knowledge
@@fasi247 it’s been a while since I read up on the exact science of how it is absorbed, but my guess is, if you relied solely on BC to remove the h. Metals you’d be correct, eventually, the char does breakdown and if no other process has changed the chemical make up of those metals, they would release it back over time as it degraded. However, I believe AMF alters this chemical structure , thus the H. Metal wouldn’t release back into the soil as it’s self. “Phytomediation”
@@fasi247 Arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi. I think there’s a lot of unknowns around AMF on it’s transporting and uptake of metals. I have heard of people mining heavy metals from plants it’s possible that the same could be done with the fruit bodies of the fungi. I think there are studies out there, though of fungi, growing on superfund sites that report declining levels of various metals and high-level toxins in the soil, suggesting that the fungi is breaking it down in someway, but that’s kind of getting to the horizon of my understanding. . My thought with AMS is that a lot of the holes in bio char are too small of a micron for most plant roots however, AMF can fit into these carbon structures and transport. The nutrients that is locked in that carbon structure to surrounding plant roots so potentially if you had a high AMF content in your bio char mix, and then you planted Symbiotic plants potentially the AMF could transport, the heavy metals absorbed in the bio char to the feet stock that then could be removed. Just a theory if the AMF isn’t digesting the heavy metals.
You’re right. There’s so many variables that without knowing them you can’t really apply the data to you’re area. Like they add so many tons of biochar to the acre. One huge thing is what’s the water percentage? Did they add any? I’ve read and watched other people say ya biochar does reduce crop yields in the first year generally because there’s not enough nutrients or they didn’t inoculate the charcoal. What needs to be done is a five year study or something because biochar is a long term amendment. If you look at the soils in South America like in Brazil that had lots of biochar added 500 years ago or further back the soil has more biological diversity then the surrounding soils. It’s probably more of a long term amendment where the benefits age like wine.
I can't find it now, but back in 2018 when I first started to really dig in and research this I even found that the soils from the Amazon and the Black soils of Africa had this same trouble with Mycorrhiza. AM is my primary go to, so that is why I only use wood charcoal in very low amounts by volume in a nutrient channel about 6 to 8 inches below the soil surface.
I’ll have to look that up. That’s interesting. Another aspect is wildfires. I read somewhere I think Iowa has black soil because of wildfires over thousands of years. I think volume is one way to measure it. But if you grind it finer then your volume shrinks. I guess it’d be consistent for measuring if you have similar size charcoal each time. I know a biochar company in Cali they sell it in a one ton sack. And you can mix it how you want. I think for farmers they mix 3/4 biochar and then 1/4 worm castings for $400 a ton bag. I can’t remember if they sold it by weight or volume but they did measure the water content so it’s consistent so that way you can compare results over time. I think they use it to get toxins out of the soil like cadmium so cancer causing things don’t go into the food. What was your low amounts? Like one part charcoal and 9 parts other stuff? And ya it’s probably good to have it deeper in the soil. I think if it’s ontop in the summertime the black would heat the top of the soil a lot which is bad
Our permaculture guild is embarking into Biochar in a big way. We’re inoculating the Biochar into a “bio-complete’ hot compost first. Then the Biochar is fully charged (that’s the theory). We added about 3% Biochar to the compost batch. When the compost is added to a garden the Biochar percentage is further diluted.
In another experiment, I inoculated (2) 5-gallon buckets of Biochar in ‘Bio-complete’’ compost extract for 36 hours. I then tilled that into about a 1,000 SF, yes tilled to more fully mix it in. I also tilled in a very heavy amount of excellent cow manure based organic compost, so there should be lots of microbes.
There is definitely a link between root growth and the use of synthetic fertilizers in that the roots grow very quickly around where the fertilizer is because it is available. What may be a good plan is to still use the combination of biochar and mychorrhizae but, as you did, go easy on the biochar. The Johnson Su bioreactors take a long time to run a batch - 12 months. Could it be that slower growth of the mychorrhizae is better long term?
Well - I do not use any chemicals or synthetics in my soil. I understand they add boosted growth and all, but they also kill off the microbes (which is what I ultimately want more than anything else for my soil type). As I was sharing in the video, so long as the Mycorrhizae is at a separate level in the soil to start with, I don't think the pathogenic behavior is nearly as bad or present at all. Johnson Su is a terrific way to get fungal compost and is better than any nitrogen fertilizer when compared side by side. Takes less in a compost tea to do what nitrogen needs to do in large amounts.
@@juguruteacher6204 I'm up between 3 different Provinces right now just depending on where "C" is at these days. Hope you guys stay safe and thanks again for being out here!
Hey . It the double layer soil experiment you could of made one thing easier is to first dig a hole for tree and then make a double layered soil around it . That would save the fungy from becoming a pathogen during and after the planting
Good idea for the future. The current spot is doing quite well and does not look to have had the same issues that were experienced by the AGU study back in 2014.
That is the plan eventually, but a little later down the line. It's not really dry here very often and right now I need to focus on getting this soil healed.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Sounds like a good plan. It would be interesting to see how you heal your soil. Mulch also helps the fungi to spread and is even better with some chicken manure on it. Lowers the smell too.
I use it this way for a very specific purpose and that is for the uptake heavy metals. That's why it is dry and not inoculated. Sorry for my late reply!
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Oh okay... I get it now... The charcoal is a protective measure to absorb potentially harmful things inside the soil... Very smart.
seen worm casting tea with mychorrizae and basalt powder good to innoculate biochar, but what biochar is the best we hear there is 1500 types of biochar in usa..from toracted wood to activated biomedical charcoal.
Omg I know your pain and my yard is big enough to fit 30 cars so I find car parts suprised I have not pulled up an engine or car yet every time it rains we find more glass like people throw it there it’s a pain isn’t it
My grandpa used to have glass hothouse in his backyard. After he died we had to remove it (it was in bad shape after a hailstorm). Two decades later we still find pieces of glass in the grass. Not only moles dig them up, but soil itself drags them to surface after every winter when it thaws.
The only mistake 😢you Made is if you used the town supply water which is full of chlorine??? You just killed you beneficial products 😅😂😅😂. And if that's the only water on hand,put in in a drum first and leave it 24hrs to bleed off the chlorine 😊and your good to go...use 1000 litre pod/ IBC palet container for large quantities if you need volume of water. Ok hope this helps
In this particular case they do not add (nor take away) anything from the main issue. The communication lines of the Mycos are snipped by the Biochar, but I think the way I separated them at different levels in the soil has worked. Will do a follow up to this in the beginning of 2024.
wait a second, rusted metal is actually a good source of iron for the soil. I mean yeah, plastic bottles are no good, but not all of the garbage is bad.
Yeah - no disrespect, but that's actually not true. It's a myth that's been around far too long now. The problem is that the iron that gets produced by rusty nails is iron oxide. This is both insoluble and mostly inert. It provides no benefits to the plants in your area, but could potential be hazardous to the gardener if they gets scratched and end up with Tetanus.
Biochar and Myccorhizae is a great combo. Biochar can only be a issue in the soil if added too much and uncharged, then can withhold nutrients from the plant. But if charged before with nutrients and if needed inoculated with soil microbiology all good. Let's say we forgot to charge the biochar then either increase a bit fertilizer or foliar sprays. Biochar was meant as a longterm strategy for soil fertility, like Terra Preta.
I would like to see your tests that show this. To date all these years later I have not seen any. As for Terra Preta why does it still exist in the Amazon all these thousand or years later if it was so nutrient rich?
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Terra Preta was formed by very smart Indigenous People over many centuries. Amazon rainforest normally has low fertility and the rain leaches away nutrients. But Terra Preta has kept its superior fertility till today because it's long-term fertile and has regenerative properties, the soil grows back over time. These facts speak for the (charged/activated) biochar methods of Indigenous People not against it.
"If it's already dead, go ahead." Great statement.
Word.
I use sorghum molasis mixed with alfafa hay layered with soil mixed with willow tree limbs. The willow limbs does the same thing as azos as its a rooting hormone. Ever once in awhile blend up some aloe vera leaf. Try adding rice hulls for airation. Bubbled teas are a positive along with clovers and dicon radish
Great video and other than the bulbs and tools my soil is just as poor quality as yours. Now looking back I did add peat to the trees I planted but really should have added some sand and biochar to help with drainage and give a place for microbes to survive.
Just an FYI your videos do not show up on your homepage so I kept thinking you didn't post anything. Might want to make sure you have an upload bar so people will see you have videos. I'll be binge watching this over the next couple days!
I cannot thank you enough for pointing this out! I only had a video for those unsubscribed to the channel, and the rest was blank and I had no idea. Will be eventually adding some play lists in the coming weeks. Fun stuff in the works! :)
We used the Mykos in our seedlings this spring potting them up until they sold or we planted and had amazing results we also added in fox farm kangaroots liquid supplement
In a more recent clip, you SCARED the hell out of me about the use of biochar.....
Question:
What type of char is black barbecue char-coal?
What about used burnt charcoal ashes?
Thanks
I tapped the thumbs up button to feed the algorithm monsters.
It really depends. The stuff you get in the village shops is garbage. Those compressed briquettes are worthless. Use really wood charcoal if at all.
@NorthernThaiGardenGuy
EXACTLY the answer I was looking for.... THANK YOU !
For my first two years..... I am only going to use 3 things... 1) Well composted yard materials and kitchen scraps.
2) Rice straw mulch.
3) Sparingly use 10-10-10....
There's a very good chance my plot doesn't need much help.
Thanks for the feedback.
@@francus7227 I would add 1 additional thing. Chitosan. Worth every Bhat at Lazada!
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy
Thanks
New to your channel and also living in Thailand. My question to you is about Trichoderma. You made a point that the organic coconut coir that you brought over from America does not have Trichoderma. Is Trichoderma a bad thing, I thought it was good to have? I'm just learning about these things, and thought that adding it to the soil was a good thing?
Thanks, Richard
I probably should have qualified that without painting with such a broad brush. There are well over 200 species of Trichoderma (with more being discovered every year). Some of them are more predatory than others and will outcompete other Fungi (like Mycorrhizae). That was the reason I mentioned it, and I should have done a better job with what I was talking about. Thanks for pointing that out!
You and I made the same connection about AMF and biochar.
I also noticed research is not abundant on the topic so thanks for the video!
I wrote a report earlier this semester of potential carbon sequestration capabilities biochar amended soil’s in urban settings. I found an article for a field study conducted where biochar was shown to increase mycorrhiza abundance.
It really is such a new topic for science. You talked about variability of feedstock, I was curious if you had read much on temperature of pyrolysis? I found some research suggesting to that it could change potential of biochar effectiveness on absorbing various nutrients. Like you said- so many variables
In the research I have done on this to date, Biochar is definitely not a 1 size fits all kind of amendment. It may be beneficial in the way of water retention for poor sandy soils, but honestly that is about it. I use the wood charcoal (not Biochar) to hopefully absorb heavy metals. I also use it at the bottom of my bins for Black Leaf Mold. The variation in heat during Pyrolysis definitely has an effect as well, but I have not seen enough studies to conclude one way or the other on which feedstocks are best. There seems to be some indication that Chicken manure is really good as a Biochar, but the study was limited.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy definitely not one size fits all. I had heard some research doing chicken manure biochar I think it was on one of Cornell‘s webinars posted on TH-cam but I haven’t had a chance to go through it yet.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy you mentioned poor sandy soils, I’ve read also that biochar can increase drainage of hard clay soils, while increasing cations Exchange. I think much research is needed but that it has been proven to be beneficial to a variety of soils, though I have not researched its capability to absorb heavy metals.
🙏🏼 for sharing you knowledge
@@fasi247 it’s been a while since I read up on the exact science of how it is absorbed, but my guess is, if you relied solely on BC to remove the h. Metals you’d be correct, eventually, the char does breakdown and if no other process has changed the chemical make up of those metals, they would release it back over time as it degraded. However, I believe AMF alters this chemical structure , thus the H. Metal wouldn’t release back into the soil as it’s self. “Phytomediation”
@@fasi247 Arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi.
I think there’s a lot of unknowns around AMF on it’s transporting and uptake of metals.
I have heard of people mining heavy metals from plants it’s possible that the same could be done with the fruit bodies of the fungi. I think there are studies out there, though of fungi, growing on superfund sites that report declining levels of various metals and high-level toxins in the soil, suggesting that the fungi is breaking it down in someway, but that’s kind of getting to the horizon of my understanding.
. My thought with AMS is that a lot of the holes in bio char are too small of a micron for most plant roots however, AMF can fit into these carbon structures and transport. The nutrients that is locked in that carbon structure to surrounding plant roots so potentially if you had a high AMF content in your bio char mix, and then you planted Symbiotic plants potentially the AMF could transport, the heavy metals absorbed in the bio char to the feet stock that then could be removed. Just a theory if the AMF isn’t digesting the heavy metals.
You’re right. There’s so many variables that without knowing them you can’t really apply the data to you’re area. Like they add so many tons of biochar to the acre. One huge thing is what’s the water percentage? Did they add any?
I’ve read and watched other people say ya biochar does reduce crop yields in the first year generally because there’s not enough nutrients or they didn’t inoculate the charcoal. What needs to be done is a five year study or something because biochar is a long term amendment. If you look at the soils in South America like in Brazil that had lots of biochar added 500 years ago or further back the soil has more biological diversity then the surrounding soils. It’s probably more of a long term amendment where the benefits age like wine.
I can't find it now, but back in 2018 when I first started to really dig in and research this I even found that the soils from the Amazon and the Black soils of Africa had this same trouble with Mycorrhiza. AM is my primary go to, so that is why I only use wood charcoal in very low amounts by volume in a nutrient channel about 6 to 8 inches below the soil surface.
I’ll have to look that up. That’s interesting. Another aspect is wildfires. I read somewhere I think Iowa has black soil because of wildfires over thousands of years.
I think volume is one way to measure it. But if you grind it finer then your volume shrinks. I guess it’d be consistent for measuring if you have similar size charcoal each time.
I know a biochar company in Cali they sell it in a one ton sack. And you can mix it how you want. I think for farmers they mix 3/4 biochar and then 1/4 worm castings for $400 a ton bag. I can’t remember if they sold it by weight or volume but they did measure the water content so it’s consistent so that way you can compare results over time. I think they use it to get toxins out of the soil like cadmium so cancer causing things don’t go into the food.
What was your low amounts? Like one part charcoal and 9 parts other stuff? And ya it’s probably good to have it deeper in the soil. I think if it’s ontop in the summertime the black would heat the top of the soil a lot which is bad
I would just stick to using the mykos to sprinkle on my roots during transplant or a compost tea drench and biochar to cook up some supersoil.
Our permaculture guild is embarking into Biochar in a big way. We’re inoculating the Biochar into a “bio-complete’ hot compost first. Then the Biochar is fully charged (that’s the theory). We added about 3% Biochar to the compost batch. When the compost is added to a garden the Biochar percentage is further diluted.
In another experiment, I inoculated (2) 5-gallon buckets of Biochar in ‘Bio-complete’’ compost extract for 36 hours. I then tilled that into about a 1,000 SF, yes tilled to more fully mix it in. I also tilled in a very heavy amount of excellent cow manure based organic compost, so there should be lots of microbes.
There is definitely a link between root growth and the use of synthetic fertilizers in that the roots grow very quickly around where the fertilizer is because it is available. What may be a good plan is to still use the combination of biochar and mychorrhizae but, as you did, go easy on the biochar. The Johnson Su bioreactors take a long time to run a batch - 12 months. Could it be that slower growth of the mychorrhizae is better long term?
Well - I do not use any chemicals or synthetics in my soil. I understand they add boosted growth and all, but they also kill off the microbes (which is what I ultimately want more than anything else for my soil type). As I was sharing in the video, so long as the Mycorrhizae is at a separate level in the soil to start with, I don't think the pathogenic behavior is nearly as bad or present at all. Johnson Su is a terrific way to get fungal compost and is better than any nitrogen fertilizer when compared side by side. Takes less in a compost tea to do what nitrogen needs to do in large amounts.
Saw you commenting on some of David the Good's live streams. : )
Thanks for stopping in! Hope you enjoy things (I have been a bit slowed by the nonstop rain this season, but have new content in the works).
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy I'm in the Hua Hin area, we don't get it nearly as heavy as you guys up there.
@@juguruteacher6204 I'm up between 3 different Provinces right now just depending on where "C" is at these days. Hope you guys stay safe and thanks again for being out here!
Hey . It the double layer soil experiment you could of made one thing easier is to first dig a hole for tree and then make a double layered soil around it . That would save the fungy from becoming a pathogen during and after the planting
Good idea for the future. The current spot is doing quite well and does not look to have had the same issues that were experienced by the AGU study back in 2014.
Very nice&amazing....👍👍
Very nice....goodluck👍👍
🙏
You should have a mulch layer of woodships in that dry enviroment. It would save u alot of water.
That is the plan eventually, but a little later down the line. It's not really dry here very often and right now I need to focus on getting this soil healed.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Sounds like a good plan. It would be interesting to see how you heal your soil. Mulch also helps the fungi to spread and is even better with some chicken manure on it. Lowers the smell too.
@@minibite3 I use Natural Farming inputs from KNF and JADAM. Will have some upcoming videos on this in the not too distant future.
If you till it you'll kill it. If it's already dead go ahead. Haaa ha ha ha. I love it.
55555!!!
Were you able to purchase a house or u renting
Rent only.
Compost tea the biochar first before adding mycorrhizae super important. #earthloveglobal #mycorrhiza #mycorrhizae
I use it this way for a very specific purpose and that is for the uptake heavy metals. That's why it is dry and not inoculated. Sorry for my late reply!
Fantastic yes I totally agree #biochar is perfect for heavy metals.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Oh okay... I get it now... The charcoal is a protective measure to absorb potentially harmful things inside the soil... Very smart.
@@busyrand In my situation that is the only reason I use it, but I have just this year added something else to aid in that effort - Chitosan! 🙂
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Interesting...
Cleaning isnt tilling or double digging 😅
Very true!
Well once you finish cleaning, man will it feel great.
seen worm casting tea with mychorrizae and basalt powder good to innoculate biochar, but what biochar is the best we hear there is 1500 types of biochar in usa..from toracted wood to activated biomedical charcoal.
It's a good question. I am going to try using Chitosan to inoculate wood charcoal and see if it has positive effects.
I sub to your channel after your YT comment ;) on ankther video
Thank you very much and enjoy!
“My dirt is dead” says the guy with green on his brown
You didn't see it when I moved in I guess.
Omg I know your pain and my yard is big enough to fit 30 cars so I find car parts suprised I have not pulled up an engine or car yet every time it rains we find more glass like people throw it there it’s a pain isn’t it
Sorry to hear that, and yes it is.
My grandpa used to have glass hothouse in his backyard. After he died we had to remove it (it was in bad shape after a hailstorm). Two decades later we still find pieces of glass in the grass. Not only moles dig them up, but soil itself drags them to surface after every winter when it thaws.
Soak those roots in some SES seed treatment solution
I would have loved to do that, but I am short on ingredients right now.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy yeah that is the only thing about knf and jadam, so many ingredients and mixing things and time involved.
@@GroProOrg But it is a lot more fun and if I am going to pay for stuff I'd rather it be my own ingredients than giving it to big Ag.
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy oh yeah and please keep sharing all your work with us, it is very important and appreciated. Thanks so much!!!!
The only mistake 😢you Made is if you used the town supply water which is full of chlorine??? You just killed you beneficial products 😅😂😅😂. And if that's the only water on hand,put in in a drum first and leave it 24hrs to bleed off the chlorine 😊and your good to go...use 1000 litre pod/ IBC palet container for large quantities if you need volume of water. Ok hope this helps
This is Thailand (not the US). We have a well on the property.
One word----red wiggler worms
In this particular case they do not add (nor take away) anything from the main issue. The communication lines of the Mycos are snipped by the Biochar, but I think the way I separated them at different levels in the soil has worked. Will do a follow up to this in the beginning of 2024.
wait a second, rusted metal is actually a good source of iron for the soil.
I mean yeah, plastic bottles are no good, but not all of the garbage is bad.
Yeah - no disrespect, but that's actually not true. It's a myth that's been around far too long now. The problem is that the iron that gets produced by rusty nails is iron oxide. This is both insoluble and mostly inert. It provides no benefits to the plants in your area, but could potential be hazardous to the gardener if they gets scratched and end up with Tetanus.
I’ve debunked their studies.
Tell me more about it
Biochar and Myccorhizae is a great combo. Biochar can only be a issue in the soil if added too much and uncharged, then can withhold nutrients from the plant. But if charged before with nutrients and if needed inoculated with soil microbiology all good. Let's say we forgot to charge the biochar then either increase a bit fertilizer or foliar sprays. Biochar was meant as a longterm strategy for soil fertility, like Terra Preta.
Let's see your test results. Would seriously love more details.
I would like to see your tests that show this. To date all these years later I have not seen any. As for Terra Preta why does it still exist in the Amazon all these thousand or years later if it was so nutrient rich?
@@NorthernThaiGardenGuy Terra Preta was formed by very smart Indigenous People over many centuries. Amazon rainforest normally has low fertility and the rain leaches away nutrients. But Terra Preta has kept its superior fertility till today because it's long-term fertile and has regenerative properties, the soil grows back over time. These facts speak for the (charged/activated) biochar methods of Indigenous People not against it.
If it's already dead, go ahead. 😂
Word! :D