Biochar Inoculation with Dan Hettinger
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
- Biochar is an amazing substance that provides massive amounts of pore space for microbes to live and thrive. Learn how to load the biochar with healthy microbes in simple inoculation processes to meet your needs on the farm or in the garden. Biochar holds a variety of nutrients and retains water, enhancing long term fertility and soil life. Learn how biochar can be made and inoculated at home to pre-load it with ‘the right biology’ before soil application. We’ll explore a variety of easy techniques for effective biochar inoculation, including composting, vermicomposting, compost tea and more.
I love smart people. Wish I was one. Thank goodness for TH-cam. How did I tie my shoes before.
@YouSurf 2 pretty much nearly every politician
Oh come on.. Your smart enough to listen to them that know. That's wisdom....
It takes a smart person to recognize a smart person.😁💖
there is that
don't forget, it takes one to know one!
I'm skeptical about the way I see biochar being applied. The idea for biochar is twofold. One is that is helps the microbiome of the soil, but the other is it's REGENERATIVE. But throwing biochar on top of the soil, to where carbon can still leech out to me is not regenerative. Adding biochar needs to be done along with soil preparation before plants are ever planted, to get the biochar mixed down in the top 12" or further for deep rooting perennials.
One driver for biochar is what farmers did in S. America in the Amazon, but those farmers dug deep trenches and it was a combo of biochar and organic debris falling into the trenches and then buried.
The fact that the Red Wriggler worms are at the top of the worm bin material, and not deeper down in the material, is not indicative of a problem. Red Wrigglers congregate and feed near the top of the soil. Nightcrawlers and many other species of earthworms burrow and live deeper in the soil (and, thus, are better for soil aeration than are Red Wrigglers).
That is also my experience with Red Wrigglers. They like to hang out right under the food layer. If they’re burrowing away from the food, you may have acidity buildup from over feeding.
Theyll move to the wettest part of the bin, yes this does tend to be where the food is, but they will go extremely deep in the bin in pursuit of the moisture.
Yeah he knows a little he is killing shit though, to much air first off. Second all you need is a bacteria culture. With nematodes and protozoa bacteria and so on.
The microbes clumping together is called flocculation. It’s a good thing! It helps them survive changing environment better than a single cell.
interesting nature again showing us bird of a feather flock together. perhaps diversity is not a strength
💯 @rusticbear on the need for like and friendly microbes 🦠 over adversaries in the mix.
So how long do you soak the biochar in the compost tea??
Very good! Nice talk and well-constructed. It really summarizes well how the application and science of biochar works! Thanks
Thank you very much! That's a bunch of great information right there. I already dug your biochar workshop videos.
Wowo! I Gotta say how Privileged I feel for knowing this Knowledgeable channel! Yall are awesome! Thank you Dan, Your the Man!!
David the good did an experiment adding just biochar to bad dead soil and got good result with his first crop ... got great taste and fast... he grew turnips and radish... radish had best flavor in biochar out of all the amendments he tried... of course it needs to be replicated... and tried with a multitude of crops
Thanks to all who share their genius.
Thank you for sharing! This video answered so many of my questions.
Thank you. Was trying to understand why you need to have the bubbling going on and this made is clear.
Excellent! Valuable information. Learned some new things. Thank you🌞
This men is so dam honest and real
Great video! I plan on learning a lot more. Yiu guys give out great info
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you!
Hope is met in your efforts.
Wisdom (toward love, life, and creation) carries your message.
Blessings on you and your message (that "the children may live")
Best on you and all they that call it "joy" to find themselves within your circle.
Excellent! Thank-you! From Littlehampton in England
thats great,...thanks for sharing all this knowledge, I appreciate
I love this, thanks for this information
Hi Dan, do you have the manual for download? Love the video.
Y'all are real G's for putting this up on YT for us all to enjoy.
dont enjoy -use it asap and share with your locals.
Awesome lecture... thanks
Gold. Pure Gold.
Good stuff. Thank you
Thank you for such an informative video...I didn’t catch if you said how long to soak the biochar in the compost tea. Can’t seem to find an answer anywhere...can you please advise? Thank you!
LOVE THIS!! Thank you!
I add different microbiology in small amounts to my worm bin. The biology is increased x1000 after as month or so. .
I'm going to try black soldier fly waste with vermiculture and humus for tea inoculate. The aquatic culture filter idea with vermi culture is the key to a successful process of the fish solid waste.
I add charged biochar to my hugelkultur beds and my weed plants love it! Thanks for the info!
They will take advantage!
this is an amazing amount of information and Dan is a really good communicator.
Agreed! This channel has several biochar videos with Dan and the others he works with; all of them are worth watching. I really appreciate that they don't make any wild claims, point out the possible pitfalls, and explain everything in ways almost anyone can understand. And they're not trying to *sell* you anything, just teaching the concepts and procedures.
The style is not to everyone's taste, and the video leaps from concept to concept but that is not criticism because it keeps us watching on our toes
The bag is for paint and still brilliant way to stup the tea.
Hi Dan! Thanks for the nice & clear presentation.
I have a couple of kilos of good wood charcoal almost 5 years old lying in the open, subject to sun & rain, of average size half inch and less. My question is : can this charcoal be charged now, and in the positive, will it be a beneficial biochar? Thanks for a prompt suggestion. Warmest regards from Mauritius!
Could debate all day and don't want to seem like a know it all. I'm a Worm Nerd Composter... just an FYI, Red Wrigglers are not Red Wigglers, (eisenia Fetida). Look on the sides of the baitshop containers, (in our area anyway) most bait worms are european Night Crawlers- labeled Red wRiggler. It's ignorance or a marketing ploy, I don't know- but Red Wigglers don't get very large. They eat a lot because of their numbers, but they don't get ewal big. They're so small that they are often mistaken for earthworm babies at manure piles. At 34:08, the leachate: good for plants as a soil drench but it may not have been been fully processed by the worms. Best to avoid just because of potential pathogens. But wonderful fungal food in a drench!
Pat touches on that at 35:38.
In europe we have red wigglers too and your rigjt theyr smaller and they prefer more rich type of soil .I find them on manure compost piles.
Imagine what this guy could do with Haiti?
Amazing!
The Johnson Su Bioreactor as a design for making compost, looks very promising. Well worth a look, if you haven't come across it already. Good work Dan, lots of good information here!
Definitely looking into it! Thanks for the tip.
Ha, it has just dawned on me, that I learnt about the Johnson Su Bioreactor from a living web farm video with Meredith Leigh..aah funny.
👍👍👍
Diego Footer made a better bioreactor. I would get some soil biology from Advancing Eco Agriculture to speed up the process. Farmers need to make money. Jonson and Su are academics and are willing to wait 2 years for their compost.
Yucca root, will take care of the Hydrophobic on the char I found...
I have a question. If you’re mass producing biochar how would you go about inoculation? Can you just mix with strong manure and liquid from runoff? Making a compost tea for 20 yards of biochar seems like a lot
Hello Dan. How long do you soak biochar in compost tea?
How long does the charcoal soak in the compost tea?
Can you add dry Biochar or Charcoal to a compost pile? if you can how much Char to a cubic yard of compost?
biochar is basically if charged is a time released fertilizer...balance acidity to alkaline and so mixing a tea from successful crop soils are the best enrichment ...we quench our biochar with urine and water mixed...50/50 for the minerals then charging with compost teas and mixing with compost from successful soils and organics and green from your current lands all compost is 1/3 organic 1/3 brown and 1/3 green charging biochar and mixing into cooked composts and then add to planting beds ...this rich mixture will double the sizes of your fruit and crops....
Hi Dan, It's an interesting explanation. However, what is the ratio of biochar to compost tea that you use or suggest to inoculate the biochar?
Worms don't actually eat compost. They eat the waste and byproducts of metabolism from microbes that break down organiv matter. Its like your body doesnt absorb food until its broken down by enzymes; you absorb amino acids and fatty acids and simple sugars. Thats what i understand anyway.
Can I purchase any good quality lumpwood charcoal and just add my compost tea to it ?
I've read different in a scientific paper about leachate. Compost leachate is not very high in the NPK type of nutrients, it's basically humic acid and another type of acid I'm failing to remember. Still good stuff for plants but not high in nutrients and I haven't wanted to use my own 50 gallon drum worth of the stuff diluted with sea water to charge my bio char, I leave that to the giant composting bin next to it. I like to use the leachate diluted with well water to soak mulch layers. Plz share your own info.
Doesn't the PVC build up with bio-film? How do you clean it? I just use seeper type soaker hose. I only use it one time and then toss it.
Can you add hot water with Sea 90 to cold biochar and will it still expand and shoot minerals in?
Paint filter bags. Can be found cheap at any store that sells paint
Man I would love to have a beer with that dude... he’s a cool dude
When you inoculate the biochar within an hour of the compost tea being done, does it die back anyway in the raw biochar with no food for it there?
Nice 👍
Can I make a compost tea from chicken manure and then pour it on the biochar? Once I get charged biochar how long can it sit before it has to be used?
You promised to have links, but I do not see them??
1.What if I use fresh cow/chicken/carabao/horse/goat manure to inoculate biochar, how many weeks can I apply it safely to my plants? Cos I understand raw biochar is dangerous to plants for it would suck/rob all the nutrients that the plants need.
2. Does biochar, if put together with any fresh manure, helps to decompose the said fresh manure faster (or how long would it take to decompose)? I'm asking this because we have many source of fresh manure here in our area. Hello and thank you very much, from Philippines
Bag is called a paint strainer
Yes. They're very handy for several uses, affordable, pretty durable & washable, and can be found at almost any hardware store.
I have also just used an old cotton pillowcase to steep compost... it works OK but obviously it doesn't drain as well.
A delicates bag from a store's laundry section would work pretty well I think. I don't recommend borrowing your wife's.
I think there is a similar bag strainer called a "jelly bag".
I just learned this from Dr Olivier Husson's free course over at Regen Ag. You can greatly improve Biochar by treating it with Ferrous Sulfate prior to burning. Unfortunately, he is an academic and gives long lectures with a terrible French accent. In the same section he talks about the benefits of paramagnetism (shades of Dr Arden Andersen). Paramagnetism refers to the magnetic attraction of minerals derived from volcanic rock (basalt.) Perhaps this ferrous sulfate increases the
paramagnetism of the biochar. Yes. But how do we apply it? Do you have any suggestions. This could be a new advance in biochar. Andersen already sold me on basalt rock dust. Thanks in advance for your
suggestions.
ask Andersen maybe?
can you adust your PH in your tea on the acidic side to compensate for the alkaline in the char if the application is for something in the neutral PH
No need...
Great info.
I’ve heard about adding yeast to the biochar inoculation soak is valuable.
Have you ever tried it??
Thank you
I have a friend that has said this helps for a fungal dominant tea
Rice Hulls biochar is great. and PH is perfect 7.0 to 7.3.
what about bokashi composting, much easier for home use i hear.
I’ve got a question about the process at the 2:19 mark in the video. You mentioned adding all that air keeps the more disease carrying anaerobic microbes at bay which makes sense. What I don’t understand is how then shutting off the air and dumping it into a bucket with bio char is any different than just shutting the air and letting it go anaerobic. It’s not addressed as far as I saw in the video of how long it sits with the bio char without air and what comes next.
By using the aeration bubbles during the growth period, the aerobic bacteria consumes the food supply and grows. Once you turn off the bubbler, the food source has been consumed and the good bacteria has a hold, and will be able to overpower any bad bacteria.
What if I have soil with a high pH? Can I use biochar?
How much biochar does the 5 gal. of innoculate treat?
Do you guys still conduct courses?
How can I make bio char..is there any video of them please share
Thanks
Chandrasekar
Organic Farmer
India
How long the charged biochar has to be kept after charging with compost tea shown in the beginning?
The charging is the bacteria cultured in the fertilizer and tea. It will stay around as long as they have something to eat. So you could add fertilizer to the biochar and mix it in or, moresimply, dig a hole or trench in the ground and dump it in to be moved later when you need it.
Can I get the recipe
Awesome video. Thank you. Does anyone have the link to the compost tea brewing manual?
Is Biochar the same as wood charcoal? If so, can you use it to filter water like commercial charcoal filters?
It's not the same as wood charcoal...
Here is what I think is my biggest concern.
Since, 1 gram of biochar has a surface area of approx 800 sq m,
I am thinking, if I don't charge the biochar with enough nutrients,
it will once again suck up nutrients from the "neighboring"soil
particles, ultimately making the surrounding soil less nutrient deep.
so thats why he increases pores surface with water, and adds sea - 90 to it.
Thanks, looking forward to Part 2.
A little confused on the initial wetting of char.
Looks like I can quench initially with Sea-90 mixture, and then let it dry out before crushing to size??
Then I could inoculate it after it has dried?
Also how long did you steep the char with your tea?
Hopefully these questions will be answered in part 2, thanks.
Wetting doesn't necessarily have to be an additional step - so long as the finished, conditioned biochar has been wetted, so it's no longer hydrophobic (repels water, floats). Depending on how it's made some chars are more hydrophobic than others. This likely has to do with pore-clogging tars that re-condense on the chars. It's believed (see: David Yarrow's work) that quenching (especially with a mineral rich solution) helps dissolve these tars. Some processes require a quench - the TLUD and kon-tiki for example will continue to smolder to ash unless quenched.
You can crush wet or dry...
You can inoculate wet or dry. Moisture helps microbes move in. Nutrients 'stick to the walls' of the char. Char is capable of holding ALOT of moisture, and is in turn difficult to dry again. Use this to your advantage: if you want to absorb compost tea, urine, etc, soak it when it's dry. If you want to clean up the floor of a chicken house, apply it dry. If you want to mix it with worm compost and apply in the garden soon thereafter, maybe best to wet it first.
I've read microbe populations in compost tea crash quickly after shutting off air supply. Try to apply within one hour. I'll soak char until it's no longer floating, stirring occasionally if I feel I need to introduce more air. Drain the liquid and apply that in the garden too! Like Pat says in the video - important not to let the biology rich char dry out at this point. Best to mix with OM rich soil as soon as possible.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for watching
Get a life
@@danielhettinger8182 Dan, If I chose to soak the biochar post cooling in a SEA 90 solution, what is a good water dillution ratio? ( Perhaps I missed it in the presentation.)
@@flatsville1 I had followed their recommended mix rate for foliar/compost tea applications at 1 tsp/gal. Thanks for watching
Hey Dan, sorry for the stupid question, but I've watched the video several times and couldn't get an answer to this question: how long do you leave the biochar soaking in the compost tea?
Same question here. I can’t find any info anywhere on how long to soak the bio char. I’m brewing compost tea with bio char in it, hoping more time in a bubbling solution helps.
I would recommend adding compost and biochar to the soil you want and adding molasses later or not at all
@@robpash2204 he said an hour
@@tinatina4789 seems it would need more time, I'm not sure
@@tinatina4789 Thank you, Tina!
खनिज कोलसा उपयोग में ले शकते है
Why do you not keep the air tubes in the bucket once you’ve added the compost tea to the char ? Won’t that still water / char-tea mixture begin to become anaerobic ?
I guess it depends how long it sits?
So interested, so many questions. No way of getting to the US for this lecture.
Pretty sure they have online courses to brother good luck!
Great video.
After you’ve inoculated the biochar in the worm tea, could it technically be stored in a bag until needed? If I was selling it for example.
And, is that biochar going to go anaerobic while it’s immersed in the tea?
biochar needs to be actived and anaerobic is term that applies to bacteria or microbes.
@@tinatina4789 thanks, but that doesn’t answer my question.
Activated biochar means it was quenched to distinguish the burn, fracturing the structure and enlarging it’s cavities.
Most people make aerated worm tea, meaning it is aerobic bacteria.
My question is, will that aerobic bacteria die and be replaced with anaerobic bacteria when stored in a sealed bag without aeration.
@@pilkyish Exactly my question as well. They say once the "air" is removed during the bubbling process that aerobic bacteria begins to die off very quickly. Well, how does the aerobic bacteria survive in Biochar without the bubbling?
@@rowdyj9251 there’s a lot unanswered isn’t there.
I’ve seen some say that the microbes become dormant, and sealed upon introduction of new food sources, and others say it does completely.
It's possible that it's entirely pointless to add microbes at all. Indigenous microbes are everywhere, multiply rapidly, and will quickly colonize anything added to the soil.
Would comfrey tea be a good starter?
I use some mixed comfrey tea with water, non sulphur molasses, a little wood ash, and some apple cider vinegar with mother.
I toss HOT charcoal immediately our of the wood burner into that mix.
Cooling effect draws stuff in quickly. I let it sit for a couple days or so, then strain out the biochar, and smash it up to granular size or smaller.
I then sprinkle some wheat flour on it and mix well.
I let it air out for a day, then mix it into my hugelgarden top couple of inches.
It is winter time now so I can't do things much differently.
So keeping fingers crossed here.
Sometimes I add in some organic 'chicken' type fertilizer on occasion.
Any time you heat your liquid above 118 degrees it will kill the living orgs ie the mother and other micro orgs you are trying to create.
Guys any one can answer me . Can you add EM1 effective microorganisms to vermi liquid worm tea while your doing this aeration thing
he answere that already in his presentation. watch it again.
You do need to add a handful of dirt to every new bin. Worms do eat dirt. The small particles of dirt aid in their digestion. They need a little grit.
FYI:
Applying 'raw' (meaning non charged charcoal) to the soil surface can help reduce WEEDS.
Cover wit composted wood chips and every year it keeps getting better!!!
yes it will suffocate all plants from nutrients obviously.
and what you call WEEDS are often the kings of herbs that can save you live......
Everyone has a different crazy way of doing it , fact is, if you mix charcoal with soil and water, it's job done. Over time year upon year it will naturally gain more biomass and create more nutrients. You can't speed that up.
Bio-char will feed the world. 100 times more yields. Bio-char will fix soil and it holds the nutritions the crop needs every year. With bio-char you can do farming in the desert.
Hey Dan, My dad used to make compost tea in a barrel but he never used a bubbler or such. Would that tea be effective for the home garden or not? I know you mentioned it getting diseases
Genesis Biochar organic soil conditioner could be part of the solution. It is mostly carbon and can last for a thousand years.
Since biochar is highly alkaline, is biochar helpful with soils that are alkaline like here in the desert southwest?
Derek absolutely.
good question
first note that some chars are more likely to be alkaline than others. grasses, bark, etc. are more mineral rich to begin with. Our quick and dirty tests here at LWF reveal that our TLUD char has a ph of around 9 when made into slurry and tested w/ a digital meter. Char from our larger retort system is lower, in the 7.5-8.5 range. I'm not positive but I'm guessing this is due to largely to ash cont
the ph can also be moderated with conditioning. in part 2 of this video I talk about soaking char w/ biological rich, acidic bokashi leachate as a means to lowering, charging and inoculating in one step. wood vinegar is a good for ph adjustment too. recent trials are showing WV may be very good for softening char prior to composting.
@@danielhettinger8182 biochar itself its not alkaline because its stable ,but the ashes residues are adding alk.Washing the char first shoul clean somme of the ashes or a better burning process that makes less ashes ,would also lower the alk of char.
how do you grind biochar. and how do you charge large quantities of biochar.
I grind mine in a garden mulcher (5hp petrol motor). Doing home scale, so I process roughly a large wheelbarrow full at a time. The important thing is to have the moisture level right. Too dry and it turns to dust, too wet and it becomes a thick paste. If you get the moisture level right, it flows through nicely in sizes up to 1/4".
Very important to wet and charge it before use.
Homie at 36:35 nailing the difference between lycheate and aerobic tea
I wonder if a better way to use biochar is with spent mushroom spore. dipping that mushroom spore into some sugars and other compost. then adding the biochar and some biomass. making a kind of mushroom compost biochar.
I'm not sure what you're getting at. "Mushroom compost" is just regular good-quality compost (usually made with straw and horse or cow manure to start with) that has been used to grow one or two flushes of mushrooms, but is still very valuable for your garden. Because the mushrooms use very little of the nutrients and minerals in it.
(Keeping that in mind, don't pay too much extra for "mushroom compost." It's not all that special or different from other good compost, except that usually it has very few weed seeds, unwanted bacteria etc, and generally doesn't have any big pH problems. So it's better overall than most compost, but it's not worth like twice as much or anything. Some sellers really over-hype it.)
@@dystopiagear6999 IF I choose to, I can get "Spent" Mushroom Compost for a 6 hr (3 there and 3 back) drive for free and they even load me up!
Unfortunately, I don't think that the OP was talking about using it in her garden (I could be mistaken though)!
I worked at a Mushroom Farm for about 6 months. We had 3 (Three) "Flushes". The first not so good, it was the second Flush where the money was made and Finally the Third one, which typically was hit or miss.
So, with all of that being said? Mushrooms don't use alot of nutrients, just as you stated.
Mycelium is what they need to flourish!
Granted, Mycelium only works in certain parameters, etc light level, humidity. So it should be safe to use in a raised bed, but that is not what I think the OP was asking/saying. She wants bio-char for her mushrooms if it works? In Theory IT SHOULD??
thats the idea to make a perfect dish. there is a guy on YT he shows how to make super compost he mixes muchichar, grass fertiliser, chicken feed, cow compost, with regular compost, and there is some few more. The list is long but he gets hot compost pile in less that 12 hours and his results of soil test are astounding. that s how I learned about biochar from him and I ended up here. check howto with doc on YT. he's american chap.
Take the HOT char immediately out of the container and dump it right into the liquid.
Makes a LOT of steam too.
The char quickly cools off and draws in the liquid pretty fast.
Let it sit a day or two then strain the char.
Next smash it gently to the size of grains of 'salt' about the size of what you find on a salted pretzel.
Dust the wet biochar with some flour and mix well.
Spread it out to dry for a day.
In your liquid add in some apple cider vinegar with mother.
Just a little and check.
Heating your liquid over 118 degrees will kill the very things you want inside.
@@mountainman3602 Yes. Seems more appropriate to crack it with a solution of SEA 90 & water. Any guess as to the dillution ratio to water?
@@mountainman3602 The idea for quenching the charcoal is to fracture it into even smaller pieces.
Once the water is cooler, add in the other goodies.
@@flatsville1 yes its all in video. im stunned how many questions here is already said by Dan during his presentation. good for you it is recorded. im not native english and his accent to me sounds like he is singing but I managed to get it all.
And I would be so excited to have some of the microbiology offered to those students. Cycle that through several worm bins and multiply x1,000,000,000,000... No brainer.
❤
Consider cooling it with alkaline water clinoptilolites form this way!
I'm just going to start throwing this out there... Years ago, when my son was a young boy, we loved camping and discussed ideas of all things survival. I spoke about an unknown idea I had of a human waste pit and on each defecation adding a sprinkle of fire ash to deodorise, which would also balance acidic urine. I wondered if, once the small pit is full, straw or hey may be optionally mixed in, top the pit with turf for a time to partially compost the matter, then dig up and shape into blocks which are air dried and used for fire blocks as fuel, and very possibly make great fertiliser for agriculture also! I've always wondered why society doesn't seem to know what to do with it's excrement, other than throw wash it into the water ways??!
Other societies have used human waste heavily in agriculture, but have run into disease problems. Those problems are easily solved with our modern understanding of the science, but we now have so many cows and pigs that it makes very little sense to use any other manure. Of course, if economics wasn't the primary concern, there are all kinds of ways we could do things better.
@@ernststravoblofeld thank you for your comment :-) .. I agree, if economics wasn't our (!?) primary concern, then there are all kinds of ways we can do things better.
Human waste, I am suggesting, is treated and fermented in localised earth pits with the application of pure fire ash which deodorises, moderately sanitises, and balances the acidic Ph (of urine and faeces) also. After a time of fermenting, it is then taken from the earth pits, it may be added to for purpose of application, then dried out in blocks. I further suggest that these blocks, due to the process which deodorises and sanitises, may be used as fuel also. Surely, this controlled and well balanced fermentation process may encourage good bacteria for the application of fertiliser; I'm sure fire ash is a key to this (as would be certain types of volcanic rock, like pure Zeolite).
@@CRHall-ud9mq If you sanitize it, you kill all the bacteria. That's what sanitizing means.
The best possible use for human waste is not as fuel. It is an extremely good fertilizer though, with certain issues. Burning stuff for energy is something we really shouldn't have to do anymore.
@@ernststravoblofeld I wish you would tell all the energy companies still using fossil fuel, virtually every other person throughout my town who has had log burning stoves, or open fires fitted for burning coal (can't open windows here some days in winter, for the toxic CO2 smoke of burning coal blowing in, like it's 1989!), every other trades person and local farm (one acquired an incinerator) burning their waste complaining of paying for it to be accepted at the tip (choking black smoke blowing across the valley with the stench of burning plastic, rubber, and chemicals); tell them Ming.
What do you do with your human waste? Are you completely carbon free on energy consumption?
What is your study and area of chemistry? What is your understanding of the Ph of fire ash, it's properties and uses, and of fermentation in this respect??
Piffling over word usage, 'moderately sanitising'? Your argument, is like saying Manuka honey kills all good gut bacteria! Perhaps, also consider antibacterial herbs used in fermentation. Manuka essential oil fibroblasts cell walls, killing some of the worst known virus and bacteria, but healthy cells (those of the body supplied with living blood) recover extremely quickly. I bet you're not keeping up? So, certain issues arise when people think they know better without really understanding or having a genuine feel for the nature of life. Good luck mongy Ming ;-)
all your information regarding the good aerobic micro bacteria and fungi inoculation into the biochar is crucial but you make a big mistake. let me explain when you add the water filled with aerobic microorganisms you drop too much water or too little biochar so the mixture is saturated. There is no air in the mixture and so the good aerobic bacteria and fungi will die. the solution is simple to add much more biochar or less water. thank you for all the good information.
Why not just make your compost tea with the charcoal in the bucket already so it charges the charcoal while it brews the tea... save a step that way
The worms stay at the bottom because of the stink, they are drawn to things that smell light rot.
Oh man...Nice video, but we are hurting the worms if we use the shovel in that way he is using, worms create a very intricate web of tunnels, so we are screwing that tunnels too
I have flow through bins but its all compacted that its up an inch or so now after scraping out what i can get and not really finished at the bottom. How should I harvest it?
While it's good to see you are adding diversity to your program, you never mentioned equity or inclusion.
Don't use a shovel for stirring compost